Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Mitch Haley


John W. Reames III wrote:
 
 
 for intake, add 0.05mm for extended ambient temps below -20C

But if it's -10C when you adjust them, there's no reason to add
more clearance. You will have a bit more clearance at -10 than
at room temperature (+20C).



[MBZ] Test

2007-01-19 Thread Frederick W Moir

Taste?





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-19 Thread Curt Raymond

Depends on what kind of laminate. Real Pergo brand laminate for instance is a 
thin layer of real hardwood on some sort of a plywood backing.
The cheapo discount store stuff is basically wallpaper on the floor. MDF with 
stickon wood grain.
I saw Pergo in a house that had extreme water damage, it was the only wood in 
the house undamaged... I'm sold on that stuff. The other stuff is crap.

-Curt

Date: Thu, 18 Jan 2007 13:17:09 -0500
From: Billr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Just a quick note on flooring.  In S. Fla we had all tile [NEVER get 
white
floor tile ], but here we have a mixture of carpet, tile and wood.  
A
few months ago I started seeing water squish up from between the floor
panels - quite exciting as it was in the middle of the house.  Turns 
out the
PO had installed the air handler in a front hall closet and put in a 
sump
pump, which had locked up.  Out comes the shop vac but I was quite 
concerned
about the wood floor.  PO said not to worry as it was solid wood and 
would
settle down fine when it dried out.  He was right, and you can't even 
tell
where it was wet.  It is my impression that laminate will not do that - 
or
is my information based on old technology?
BillR
Jacksonville FL 



 
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Roger Conlon wrote:
 Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather, say 20 
 degrees F, or would it be a no,no?
 I have not done the valves in 2 yrs and I don't have a heated garage.

It's not a problem.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Test

2007-01-19 Thread Bob Rentfro

Like chicken?


- Original Message - 
From: Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 5:07 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Test



Taste?



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[MBZ] Test 2

2007-01-19 Thread Frederick W Moir

T





Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread kevin kraly

But if it's -10C when you adjust them,

THE ENGINE AND THE WRENCHES ARE TERRIBLY COLD TO THE TOUCH!  bur! 
I'll be waiting until the temps climb a bit although it's probably 6oC or 
42oF here, balmy compared to much of the country right now.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265k miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-19 Thread Allan Streib
Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 I saw Pergo in a house that had extreme water damage, it was the
 only wood in the house undamaged... I'm sold on that stuff. The
 other stuff is crap.

They must have improved it since I had it.  In a former house, late
1990s, we had Pergo installed.  Some water was spilled on the floor
and not noticed.  Even though the planks were glued together, the
water soaked into the joints between the planks, and the floor swelled
a little there.  It never went back down after it dried.

Laminate floor has its advantages but you cannot let water stand on it
for any length of time.  I would never use it in a bathroom or
anywhere else likely to see a lot of water.

The manufacturers will tell you it can be installed in a bathroom if
you use waterproof glue and seal the entire perimeter.  I would not do
it unless the planks are guaranteed waterproof (a few are, but most
are not).

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



[MBZ] Test 3

2007-01-19 Thread Frederick W Moir

taystey





Re: [MBZ] Test

2007-01-19 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

you failed

Frederick W Moir wrote:


Taste?



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com



Re: [MBZ] Test 2

2007-01-19 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

you failed again

Frederick W Moir wrote:


T



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com



Re: [MBZ] Test 3

2007-01-19 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

also failed

Frederick W Moir wrote:


taystey



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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com



Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-19 Thread Werner Fehlauer

Lancia did the same thing with their V-4 back in the late 50's
Werner

- Original Message - 
From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders



Jeff Zedic wrote:
I wonder how VW has done it with te engine I saw in a Passat the other 
day.

It's a V5! Yes, I read t twice just to be sure!



Their narrow-angle V6 is interesting, too.  A pretty clever solution for
transverse-engine cars without much space under the hood.  The bank
angle is so small, both banks share a single head casting.





Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-19 Thread Darrell W. Sigmon

Werner, I have a technical question for you or others.
Why do ALL radial engines have odd cylinders, like 1,3,5,7,9?
There is a logical answer, what is it?
DWS

Werner Fehlauer wrote:

Lancia did the same thing with their V-4 back in the late 50's
Werner

- Original Message - 
From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders



Jeff Zedic wrote:
I wonder how VW has done it with te engine I saw in a Passat the other 
day.

It's a V5! Yes, I read t twice just to be sure!


Their narrow-angle V6 is interesting, too.  A pretty clever solution for
transverse-engine cars without much space under the hood.  The bank
angle is so small, both banks share a single head casting.



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Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-19 Thread OK Don

We replaced nasty old carpet with Wilsonart laminate flooring a couple
of years ago. It's similar to Formica on Masonite. We have it in every
room in the house. There is no noticeable difference between that in
the bathroom (glued along the joints, but not the outside edges), and
anywhere else. I have scraps that have been left out in the weather
for 12 months, that snap together nicely with samples that have been
kept inside - nice and dry. I don't worry about water on the floor at
all now. It's very hard and scuff resistant. The marks that look like
scratches turn out to be bits of the offending item scrapped off by
the texture of the floor - they clean up readily, and the floor looks
like new. We're very happy with the stuff. So far, it's performed
better than advertised.


Laminate floor has its advantages but you cannot let water stand on it
for any length of time.  I would never use it in a bathroom or
anywhere else likely to see a lot of water.

The manufacturers will tell you it can be installed in a bathroom if
you use waterproof glue and seal the entire perimeter.  I would not do
it unless the planks are guaranteed waterproof (a few are, but most
are not).


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Test 2

2007-01-19 Thread Bob Rentfro

 A
- Original Message - 
From: Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 5:29 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Test 2



T



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Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-19 Thread Allan Streib
Darrell W. Sigmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Werner, I have a technical question for you or others.  Why do ALL
 radial engines have odd cylinders, like 1,3,5,7,9?  There is a
 logical answer, what is it?

In a 4 stroke radial engine, it's so that the firing order can be
every other cylinder.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_engine

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-19 Thread Jim Cathey

We replaced nasty old carpet with Wilsonart laminate flooring


Some friends of my wife are contractors, and put that stuff
in their mom's kitchen.  After several years of use, and being
used as a day care facility, the Wilsonart people came out to
photograph the installation for their catalog.  It appeared
as a full-page feature photograph.  (The boys had done a very
elaborate patterned and edged installation, like parquet.)
It looked as good as new, still does.  They're sold on that
particular brand.  I can't speak for its water-resistance,
not knowing of any incidents (or not).

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-19 Thread Jim Cathey

Why do ALL radial engines have odd cylinders, like 1,3,5,7,9?
There is a logical answer, what is it?


Might have to do with how the mass of connecting rods all
have to attach to the crank at the same place.  Just a guess.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Jim Cathey

Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather,
say 20 degrees F, or would it be a no,no?


No.  You won't enjoy it.  (Otherwise no problem.)

I recommend you plug in the block heater for a couple
of hours, your fingers will thank you.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] OT The mighty fell My Saab stranded me in cold

2007-01-19 Thread Jim Cathey

I had left it with around three gallons of fuel in the tank for 8
hours or so.


Condensation becomes a problem when the temperature cycles up
and down.  With a lot of room in the tank for air, more comes
in and releases its moisture into the tank.  For short periods
of time, it really doesn't matter.  Likewise if the temperature
is not fluctuating much.  Also, below freezing there isn't all
that much water vapor in the air to begin with.  This recent
arctic blast, though cold, has been _much_ less of a PITA
than warmer temperatures that leave ice all over windows, etc.


I filled up and hit the highway. I got about 5 miles and
it just quit.


Can you say 'bad gas'?  Fillup followed by a stalled engine a
few miles down the road is classic.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-19 Thread Jim Cathey

In a 4 stroke radial engine, it's so that the firing order can be
every other cylinder.


Now that makes total sense.  Skip every other one, and then it's
two revs per firing.  Just what a 4-stroke needs.  Also, without
the multiple phased crank journals of the inline engine you're
very limited on your options for firing order.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-19 Thread Loren Faeth
I am more partial to the three or 4 row radials.  I believe the theory of 
odd cylinder numbers is to dampen vibration. Even numbers would mean 
directly opposed cylinders.  Directly opposed cylinders could set up 
harmonic vibrations.  Yes, Lycoming and other boxer engines have directly 
opposed cylinders in even numbers, but they take other measures to dampen 
vibration.  And, 'sides we were talking about radials!


At 07:39 PM 1/18/2007, you wrote:

Werner, I have a technical question for you or others.
Why do ALL radial engines have odd cylinders, like 1,3,5,7,9?
There is a logical answer, what is it?
DWS

Werner Fehlauer wrote:
 Lancia did the same thing with their V-4 back in the late 50's
 Werner

 - Original Message -
 From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 3:06 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders


 Jeff Zedic wrote:
 I wonder how VW has done it with te engine I saw in a Passat the other
 day.
 It's a V5! Yes, I read t twice just to be sure!

 Their narrow-angle V6 is interesting, too.  A pretty clever solution for
 transverse-engine cars without much space under the hood.  The bank
 angle is so small, both banks share a single head casting.


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com



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Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-19 Thread Mitch Haley

Isn't that a R107 in the architect's drawing here?
http://menards.com/web/managed/featuredProjects/garages/1954029PicLg.jpg

Mitch.



Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-19 Thread OK Don

I'd say so 

On 1/18/07, Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Isn't that a R107 in the architect's drawing here?
http://menards.com/web/managed/featuredProjects/garages/1954029PicLg.jpg

Mitch.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Number of cylinders

2007-01-19 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 21:39:24 -0500 Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Darrell W. Sigmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  Werner, I have a technical question for you or others.  Why do ALL
  radial engines have odd cylinders, like 1,3,5,7,9?  There is a
  logical answer, what is it?
 
 In a 4 stroke radial engine, it's so that the firing order can be
 every other cylinder.
 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_engine

It also mentions,

   Diesel radials

   While the vast majority of radial engines have been produced for
   gasoline fuels, the Nordberg Manufacturing Company of the US developed
   and produced a series of large radial diesel engines from the 1940s.
   Designed initially for electricity production in aluminium smelters,
   these engines differed from the norm of radial design in having
   identical connecting rods in all cylinders, lacking the master/slave
   rod usually found. The engine design also permitted even numbers of
   cylinders in a single rank with the cylinders being fired in
   consecutive order. The engines were a two-cycle design and were also
   available in a dual-fuel gas/diesel model. A number of powerhouse
   installations utilising large numbers of these engines were made in the
   US.[1]


   [1] http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel/Nordberg/Nordmenu.htm
   http://www.oldengine.org/


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 18:57:25 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather,
  say 20 degrees F, or would it be a no,no?
 
 No.  You won't enjoy it.  (Otherwise no problem.)
 
 I recommend you plug in the block heater for a couple
 of hours, your fingers will thank you.

Your fingers will thank you, but you'll have an undetermined temperature
thoughout the engine which will play havoc with the actual valve lashes
when the engine is entirely cold. The specs for adjustment assume the
entire engine is at 20 deg.C.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Why not simply run the engine, long enough for it to reach some uniform 
temperature, shut it down, and just as it cools enough to work on it safely, 
do the adjustment?  That should allow doing it above the freezing 
temperatures of the day, and also have some mercy on the fingers.  Of 
course, you would want to warm the tools beforehand, also!

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather



On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 18:57:25 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:


 Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather,
 say 20 degrees F, or would it be a no,no?

No.  You won't enjoy it.  (Otherwise no problem.)

I recommend you plug in the block heater for a couple
of hours, your fingers will thank you.


Your fingers will thank you, but you'll have an undetermined temperature
thoughout the engine which will play havoc with the actual valve lashes
when the engine is entirely cold. The specs for adjustment assume the
entire engine is at 20 deg.C.


Craig





Re: [MBZ] OT interesting vehicle Hanomag camper van $1500

2007-01-19 Thread Werner Fehlauer
IIRC, the Kemp museum outside of St. Louis has one of these.  Must be a real 
clattering, sloooww beast, though.  Putting your money into a new/used 
Sprinter Class B motor home would probably cost less, and certainly be less 
hassle!


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: kevin kraly [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 4:04 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT interesting vehicle Hanomag camper van $1500



Anyone heard of these?

http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/car/263324160.html

I just spotted this one on CL a few minutes ago.  It sounds quite
interesting, especially for us who are into diesels.

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265K miles, Ursula





Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 1/18/2007 3:31:21 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Would it  be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather, say 20 
degrees F,  or would it be a no,no?
I have not done the valves in 2 yrs and I don't  have a heated garage.



Absolutely ok.  The colder it is when you adjust them, the less likely  it is 
that they will be held open during a colder day.  The clearances when  
normalized will be slightly looser but that improves low end torque, with  only 
slightly noisier valve clatter.  
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 147 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 23:54:51 -0500 Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Why not simply run the engine, long enough for it to reach some uniform 
 temperature, shut it down, and just as it cools enough to work on it
 safely,  do the adjustment?

Because that will have even worse temperature changes as you're adjusting
the valves. You need to adjust the valves with the engine at ambient
temperature so everything starts and finishes at the same temperature.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] OT House Build Quality

2007-01-19 Thread Jim Cathey

Isn't that a R107 in the architect's drawing here?
http://menards.com/web/managed/featuredProjects/garages/ 
1954029PicLg.jpg


Kinda-sorta, but it has a BMW-ish rear badge, and the shape of
the ass end reminds me more of a 114 than a 107.  With Euro
bumpers, not USDOT behemoths.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Governer question - injection charge profile

2007-01-19 Thread Peter Merle
To ask a furthur question - what shapes the maximum injection stoke
volume vs rpm at these pumps. As I understand it compensation for
volumetric efficiency vs rpm needs to be taken account so that at low
speed and at hig speed the maximum injection charge is lower than at mid
range rpm due to rereduced volumetric efficeincy.  
Peter

-Original Message-
From: John Robbins [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 17 January 2007 10:34 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Governer question




On Wed, 17 Jan 2007, Jim Cathey wrote:

 If we are talking pre computer controlled Mercedes diesels, such as 
 the 617 turbo diesel, you are totally wrong!  The governor does not 
 have any function between idle and full rpm.  The only things that 
 control engine speed are the load, and the position of the fuel rack.

 I disagree.  It's possible to build diesel governors that have 
 throttle responses anywhere from gasser acceleration models to pure 
 tractor-like fixed RPM settings.

No doubt, but the governor on the OM617 turbos have a min/max governor 
with torque control and boost compensation (ALDA).

 The governor in the 200D Frankenheap is very tractor-like, it pretty
 much accelerates all-out (ha!) to the rpm corresponding to the
throttle 
 pedal position.

Well, on a flat road there is always going to be a fuel rack position vs

speed since the car speed and load are fairly well correlated to each 
other. That pedal position is different in park than it is in drive 
correct?

Those vacuum controlled IPs are interesting... the literature I have 
doesn't talk much about them though.

John
'79 300SD

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[MBZ] Oil passage block cleanup

2007-01-19 Thread Peter Merle

On the OM617 engine there are steel balls at the clutch end of the block
which are end stops for oil passages internal to the block. How
difficult is it to remove and particulily re-install these balls without
the risk of a leaks. Alternatively can one sucessfully clean the oil
passages without removing the steel end balls.
Peter 



Re: [MBZ] Test 2

2007-01-19 Thread jwreames
I think B is more appropriate, ie TB :)

--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K Gerta)
1991 Cherokee (149K the fishbowl)
1999 E300Dt (140K Hans) (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K Frantz) (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  A 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Frederick W Moir 
  T 
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Jan 19 12:59:32 2007
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Subject: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines (was:  Number of cylinders)
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What I'm wondering is how the lubrication system works, since it is pretty 
obvious that you can't have a sump and the oil would seemingly accumulate in 
the bottom piston(s)/cylinder(s)... 
-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K Gerta)
1991 Cherokee (149K the fishbowl)
1999 E300Dt (140K Hans) (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K Frantz) (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 Darrell W. Sigmon writes: 
 
  Werner, I have a technical question for you or others. Why do ALL 
  radial engines have odd cylinders, like 1,3,5,7,9? There is a 
  logical answer, what is it? 
 
 In a 4 stroke radial engine, it's so that the firing order can be 
 every other cylinder. 
 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Radial_engine 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines
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[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 What I'm wondering is how the lubrication system works, since it is
 pretty obvious that you can't have a sump and the oil would
 seemingly accumulate in the bottom piston(s)/cylinder(s)...

LOL.. I was wondering exactly the same thing this morning...

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1966 230



Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines (was: Number of cylinders)

2007-01-19 Thread OK Don

The sump is a separate tank - I think they call these 'dry sump'
engines. Oil doe s collect in the bottom cylinders while it's sitting
- you have slowly crank the engine through a couple of turns before
trying to start it (aircraft application). They have been known to
blow a cylinder or two off when this step is omitted.

On 1/19/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

What I'm wondering is how the lubrication system works, since it is pretty 
obvious that you can't have a sump and the oil would seemingly accumulate in 
the bottom piston(s)/cylinder(s)...
-j.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines (was: Number of cylinders)

2007-01-19 Thread jwreames
Sounds like it would 1) leak a lot, and 2) smoke even more

Nifty feature, that self-hydrolocking.  I guess the spark plug threads on the 
bottom cylinders wear out sooner than those on the upper ones :P

Fun Fun!
-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K Gerta)
1991 Cherokee (149K the fishbowl)
1999 E300Dt (140K Hans) (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K Frantz) (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 The sump is a separate tank - I think they call these 'dry sump' 
 engines. Oil doe s collect in the bottom cylinders while it's sitting 
 - you have slowly crank the engine through a couple of turns before 
 trying to start it (aircraft application). They have been known to 
 blow a cylinder or two off when this step is omitted. 
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Subject: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather
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Thanks all who responded to my question.
It did cross my mind to leave the block heater plugged
in all night and while I was working on it.

I thought by then the engine temp should even out.

As far as the cold temp as long as I get out of the wind it's
really not that bad, and after the fingers get that fat numb feeling.
Right Lt. Don. Where has he been lately or have I just missed his postings?

I think it bothers my back more in the cold from  leaning over tho.

_
Type your favorite song.  Get a customized station.  Try MSN Radio powered 
by Pandora. http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001




Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread jwreames
I've gotten really huge latex gloves and put them on over knit garden gloves 
before, it doesn't kill your dexterity as much (and it is not like you need 
TONS of it for a valve adjustment)

I hear you kicking and screaming over bending overin the cold. Insulated 
coveralls help a bit, but I am still suffering from my jaunt on the ground 
yesterday; Hans had an 8mm coolant line pop out of a clip and rub itself to 
death on the intercooler... To get at the line entailed removing the bumper (4 
bolts, thankfully!).. I just used a 5/16 compression union on it, seems to be 
holding fine..

BTW i found out that I have weeping from between the nuts and the pipe on my 
oil cooler lines, Thankfully the OM606 has 4 lines; two hoses from the engine 
to the body hard lines, then the two body hard lines down to the aluminium 
radiator. Unfortunately it is the body hard lines that have the weep, so it 
looks like headlight removal time and probably dremel time (split the nuts 
and they will hopefully unscrew... but they might not be siezed either.  It 
will be decidely easier to get at the cooler with the bumper off. I'm hoping 
that the radiator is not leaking as well.

Does anyone know how much oil the lines and radiator hold? (210.025/OM606.96x)  
I'm guessing about 2 qt.

I also found that the bolts securing the sway bar to the chassis tend to round 
off (#[EMAIL PROTECTED] E-10 heads) and were up-reved to Hex heads. I'm hoping 
that Craftsman external ez-out sockets will get a good bite on the now round 
heads and spin them right out.  

Additionally, on the stuck lug nut, I found that my locak dealership has a guy 
who is good enough with a plasma cutter to just blow the bolt out of the hole 
(!). Talk about big chrome-plated cast-iron cojones!

Fun,Fun.

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K Gerta)
1991 Cherokee (149K the fishbowl)
1999 E300Dt (140K Hans) (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K Frantz) (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Roger Conlon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 Thanks all who responded to my question. 
 It did cross my mind to leave the block heater plugged 
 in all night and while I was working on it. 
 
 I thought by then the engine temp should even out. 
 
 As far as the cold temp as long as I get out of the wind it's 
 really not that bad, and after the fingers get that fat numb feeling. 
 Right Lt. Don. Where has he been lately or have I just missed his postings? 
 
 I think it bothers my back more in the cold from leaning over tho. 
 
 _ 
 Type your favorite song. Get a customized station. Try MSN Radio powered 
 by Pandora. http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines

2007-01-19 Thread Rich Thomas
My college summer job was at the airport, a ramp rat.  I used to fill up 
the old Beech D18 from a night of hauling the mail, would take a 5 gal 
can of oil up on each wing and pour in 3-4 gal in each radial engine.  
Not sure where it went once it went down the hole (I know where the part 
that missed the hole went!) but whatever the system was, it burned and 
blew out a LOT of oil.  Check the gas and fill the oil!  This was a 
lot of fun on a dark rainy night, oil and rain and skinny me on a 
sloping wing with a 50lb (or was it a 100lb?) bucket of oil...


When the pilot fired those suckers up (and it was an art to get them to 
fire) every mosquito with a mile died.  First one or two cylinders would 
catch and sputter, then a couple more, then all of them eventually, 
amidst much drama of belching smoke, backfires and starter protest.  
Sometimes you would get some gas/oil fire in the stacks, a blowtorch 
until the rpms came up and the props blew out the fire.  The pilot would 
laugh like hell.


I was outside the other day, and heard this sound that triggered 
memories -- looked up and there it was!  A Beech D18 growling overhead 
at about 1000 ft!  Nothing else sounds like one.  Googling shows they 
are Pratt  Whitney R-985 AN-1 or AN-3 nine-cylinder, air-cooled radial, 
450 hp each


--R

OK Don wrote:

The sump is a separate tank - I think they call these 'dry sump'
engines. Oil doe s collect in the bottom cylinders while it's sitting
- you have slowly crank the engine through a couple of turns before
trying to start it (aircraft application). They have been known to
blow a cylinder or two off when this step is omitted.

On 1/19/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  

What I'm wondering is how the lubrication system works, since it is pretty 
obvious that you can't have a sump and the oil would seemingly accumulate in 
the bottom piston(s)/cylinder(s)...
-j.



  


Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Marshall Booth

Werner Fehlauer wrote:
Why not simply run the engine, long enough for it to reach some uniform 
temperature, shut it down, and just as it cools enough to work on it safely, 
do the adjustment?  That should allow doing it above the freezing 
temperatures of the day, and also have some mercy on the fingers.  Of 
course, you would want to warm the tools beforehand, also!


For the engine to be at a uniform temperature throughout, the engine 
must not have been run for 6-8 hours (not even for a minute or two). 
Unless the engine temperature is uniform, valve adjustment will be 
uneven. Once shut down, the front, center and back of the engine cool at 
different rates. Using the block heater would not be particularly 
desirable either but not as bad as running the engine.


What is required for reliable cold starting is that there be SOME valve 
clearance at the coldest temperatures expected (clearance decreases as 
the temperature drops because the valves and the head have different 
temperature coefficients). The precise clearance is not nearly as 
critical as sufficient clearance for reliable cold starting. Uniform and 
correct clearances are required for the engine to run most smoothly.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread John Robbins

Werner Fehlauer wrote:
Why not simply run the engine, long enough for it to reach some uniform 
temperature, shut it down, and just as it cools enough to work on it safely, 
do the adjustment?  That should allow doing it above the freezing 
temperatures of the day, and also have some mercy on the fingers.  Of 
course, you would want to warm the tools beforehand, also!

Werner
  
Wouldn't that be to wait for operating temperature?  If its somewhere 
inbetween different things could still be at different temperatures 
(heck, thats prolly true even at operating temp).


The plate on my car says if above a certain temp use xx values or if its 
below that temp use... etc.  (I don't remember the values or temp, but 
know that I've always needed the 'cold' ones).  IMO, its been two years 
since the valve adjustment was done  the little itty bitty 
differences in tolerance from the super cold temperatures are most 
likely insignificant compared to how out of clearance they are now.   
Besides, its not like they'll never be out of adjustment again ;)


Warming tools...  I'm going to have to try that one!  :)  Any spiffy 
warming method or do you just keep them inside? 


John
'79 300SD



Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines

2007-01-19 Thread LarryT

Hi Rich -
Great story - BTW, a 5 gal of oil weighs *about* 48 #'s.  Back when I was 
flying we had to calc the weight of everything so we wouldn't be overweight 
and to get the planed loaded properly - we used 8#s as a number to get us 
close when calculating fuel weight.  Those Cessna 150s I learned in were the 
240D of airplanes -


Those old Beechs are classic planes with a beautiful shape - like the old 
DC3 which is used a lot still - after it was developed 60+ years ago -- just 
like the W123 in its various guises will be with us  loved by us for many 
years to come -


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 10:26 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines



My college summer job was at the airport, a ramp rat.  I used to fill up
the old Beech D18 from a night of hauling the mail, would take a 5 gal
can of oil up on each wing and pour in 3-4 gal in each radial engine.
Not sure where it went once it went down the hole (I know where the part
that missed the hole went!) but whatever the system was, it burned and
blew out a LOT of oil.  Check the gas and fill the oil!  This was a
lot of fun on a dark rainy night, oil and rain and skinny me on a
sloping wing with a 50lb (or was it a 100lb?) bucket of oil...

When the pilot fired those suckers up (and it was an art to get them to
fire) every mosquito with a mile died.  First one or two cylinders would
catch and sputter, then a couple more, then all of them eventually,
amidst much drama of belching smoke, backfires and starter protest.
Sometimes you would get some gas/oil fire in the stacks, a blowtorch
until the rpms came up and the props blew out the fire.  The pilot would
laugh like hell.

I was outside the other day, and heard this sound that triggered
memories -- looked up and there it was!  A Beech D18 growling overhead
at about 1000 ft!  Nothing else sounds like one.  Googling shows they
are Pratt  Whitney R-985 AN-1 or AN-3 nine-cylinder, air-cooled radial,
450 hp each

--R

OK Don wrote:

The sump is a separate tank - I think they call these 'dry sump'
engines. Oil doe s collect in the bottom cylinders while it's sitting
- you have slowly crank the engine through a couple of turns before
trying to start it (aircraft application). They have been known to
blow a cylinder or two off when this step is omitted.

On 1/19/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

What I'm wondering is how the lubrication system works, since it is 
pretty obvious that you can't have a sump and the oil would seemingly 
accumulate in the bottom piston(s)/cylinder(s)...

-j.





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Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Marshall Booth

John Robbins wrote:


The plate on my car says if above a certain temp use xx values or if its 
below that temp use... etc.  (I don't remember the values or temp, but 
know that I've always needed the 'cold' ones).  IMO, its been two years 
since the valve adjustment was done  the little itty bitty 
differences in tolerance from the super cold temperatures are most 
likely insignificant compared to how out of clearance they are now.   
Besides, its not like they'll never be out of adjustment again ;)


Unless you are much faster at adjusting valve than I am, the warm values 
ALWAYS result in unreliable valve adjustment since the engine is cooling 
while you are adjusting the valves. For a uniform valve adjustment the 
engine must not have been run for 6-8 hours!! Even really experienced 
mechanics can't do as good a job using the warm values (no matter what 
they claim).


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines

2007-01-19 Thread Loren Faeth
The dry sump was also used on the M100 engine, Triumph motorcycles and lots 
of aircraft applications.   I think the 300SL (not the 90s one, but the 
real 300SL) had a dry sump.  I believe the water cooled Allisons, Rolls 
Royce and Daimler-Benz V-12 aircraft engines of WWII were all dry sump



At 08:09 AM 1/19/2007, you wrote:

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 What I'm wondering is how the lubrication system works, since it is
 pretty obvious that you can't have a sump and the oil would
 seemingly accumulate in the bottom piston(s)/cylinder(s)...

LOL.. I was wondering exactly the same thing this morning...

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread jwreames
Thanks. I noticed a decided difference in engine running between stone cold 
(overnight sit) versus warm adjustments. I always wondered why, or if it was 
something that I was doing wrong. I've gotten to where I can adjust them on the 
street in 30 mins (It has gotten a question or three from the neighbors, but 
they have grown to accept it.)

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K Gerta)
1991 Cherokee (149K the fishbowl)
1999 E300Dt (140K Hans) (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K Frantz) (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 Unless you are much faster at adjusting valve than I am, the warm values 
 ALWAYS result in unreliable valve adjustment since the engine is cooling 
 while you are adjusting the valves. For a uniform valve adjustment the 
 engine must not have been run for 6-8 hours!! Even really experienced 
 mechanics can't do as good a job using the warm values (no matter what 
 they claim). 
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Jan 19 16:14:41 2007
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Governer question - injection charge profile
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Peter Merle wrote:
 To ask a furthur question - what shapes the maximum injection stoke
 volume vs rpm at these pumps. As I understand it compensation for
 volumetric efficiency vs rpm needs to be taken account so that at low
 speed and at hig speed the maximum injection charge is lower than at mid
 range rpm due to rereduced volumetric efficeincy.  
   
Let me make sure I understand what you're asking real quick.   :)  On 
the volumetric efficiency vs RPM are you talking about the amount of 
available air for combustion inside the cylinder based on RPM (things 
like boost and/or losses changing that over the RPM band)?


If thats the case, then the amount of injected fuel (injection charge?) 
does have different limits across the RPM range.  The reason for it is 
that if you start injecting too much fuel you will start generating 
clouds of black smoke (partially burned fuel).  I have a graph in a 
Bosch tech book that shows the max injected volume vs RPM and it does do 
what you describe.  I can post that if you would like that extra 
verification :)


As to HOW thats done that is where the complicated part (IMO) of our 
governors come into play.  In the governor used on the MW pumps I 
believe it is called torque control.   There are very few people who 
truly understand exactly how it works (and how to change it), and I am 
certainly NOT one of them. 


If you are interested in learning more about how IPs work I'd highly 
suggest this book It talks about all kinds of IPs and how the 
governors work, etc.  As well as a fairly detailed overview of diesel 
combustion, etc.  I sure enjoyed reading it and learned a lot :)


http://www.boschtechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=product.searchkeyword=1%20987%20723%20602


John
'79 300SD








[MBZ] O.T. Hey There Okie Boys

2007-01-19 Thread Bob Rentfro
I heard on the radio your governor want federal disaster moola for Okieland. 
Is it as jacked up there as the news reports make it out to be?


Bob Rlots of rain today, no ice.
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From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Avgas and JetA weigh in at 6#/gal, water is 8ish, I would guess oil is
closer to 6, maybe a bit more.  A big bucket swinging around on a wet
oily wing seems to weigh a TON!

I got to fly once by happenstance (the steamer ran aground so we took
the plane) on the world's highest-time DC-3, in summer service with Cape
Air (might have been called something else back then) flying from
Hyannis to Nantucket.  It was gorgeous, original style interior with big
wide seats, 2x2, like an old Caddy.  She flew at a stately pace at about
500ft on the short hop over the Sound, those big radials making a very
comforting sound.  Probably still in service somewhere.  As a ramp rat I
got to load freight on some old DC-3s, NOT FUN as the tail sits low and
the nose high, bucking big boxes up that aluminum deck and trying to get
them to stay put til you could tie them down was a chore.  I recall one
still had the radio shack installed behind the cockpit, with the
original tube radios.  It was quite a sight.  The pilot said the owner
was sentimental...

Here are some sounds
http://www.centercomp.com/cgi-bin/dc3/sounds?13

A lot of old D18s and even DC-3s were converted to turbine engines, D18s
on tricycle gear with a nose wheel, they performed really well but
looked strange.  I would love to have a DC-3.  I was at a car show a few
years ago, a couple there had a couple old cars of some sort, I
overheard them talking to someone they knew about having to sell some of
their cars and planes, including the DC-3 (the woman said sadly I loved
that plane), when the all bidness went sour a few years before.  I
didn't know whether to be sad for them or not, though they seemed like
regular folks who happened to have some varying fortunes (exceeding mine
though).

--R

LarryT wrote:
 Hi Rich -
 Great story - BTW, a 5 gal of oil weighs *about* 48 #'s.  Back when I was
 flying we had to calc the weight of everything so we wouldn't be overweight
 and to get the planed loaded properly - we used 8#s as a number to get us
 close when calculating fuel weight.  Those Cessna 150s I learned in were the
 240D of airplanes -

 Those old Beechs are classic planes with a beautiful shape - like the old
 DC3 which is used a lot still - after it was developed 60+ years ago -- just
 like the W123 in its various guises will be with us  loved by us for many
 years to come -






Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines

2007-01-19 Thread LarryT

you wrote: the 300SL (not the 90s one, but the

real 300SL) had a dry sump.  I believe the water cooled Allisons, Rolls
Royce and Daimler-Benz V-12 aircraft engines 


And,Drum roll please,  T D,.  --   the greatest  most famous 
sportscar of all time has a dry sump oil system - the Porsche 911.  The oil 
level is checked with the engine idling.  ;-)


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 11:00 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines


The dry sump was also used on the M100 engine, Triumph motorcycles and 
lots

of aircraft applications.   I think the 300SL (not the 90s one, but the
real 300SL) had a dry sump.  I believe the water cooled Allisons, Rolls
Royce and Daimler-Benz V-12 aircraft engines of WWII were all dry sump


At 08:09 AM 1/19/2007, you wrote:

[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 What I'm wondering is how the lubrication system works, since it is
 pretty obvious that you can't have a sump and the oil would
 seemingly accumulate in the bottom piston(s)/cylinder(s)...

LOL.. I was wondering exactly the same thing this morning...

Allan
--
1983 300D
1966 230

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Loren Faeth


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No virus found in this incoming message.
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Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.17.0/639 - Release Date: 1/18/2007







Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines

2007-01-19 Thread LarryT

Thanks Rich - my memory isn;t what is used to be. ;-)
I climbed in a cargo DC3 on the ramp once - Geez, just climbing from the 
door to the cockpit was a PITA - loading cargo must have been a LOT of fun.


OTOH, I was invited into a early Learjet for a lookaround and was amazed at 
how *small* it was.  Beautiful - but tiny. It had been doing touch  go's 
for a while and we (my instructor  I) hoped to catch a ride - but when we 
caught up with him he was done for the day ;-(.



Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines



Avgas and JetA weigh in at 6#/gal, water is 8ish, I would guess oil is
closer to 6, maybe a bit more.  A big bucket swinging around on a wet
oily wing seems to weigh a TON!

I got to fly once by happenstance (the steamer ran aground so we took
the plane) on the world's highest-time DC-3, in summer service with Cape
Air (might have been called something else back then) flying from
Hyannis to Nantucket.  It was gorgeous, original style interior with big
wide seats, 2x2, like an old Caddy.  She flew at a stately pace at about
500ft on the short hop over the Sound, those big radials making a very
comforting sound.  Probably still in service somewhere.  As a ramp rat I
got to load freight on some old DC-3s, NOT FUN as the tail sits low and
the nose high, bucking big boxes up that aluminum deck and trying to get
them to stay put til you could tie them down was a chore.  I recall one
still had the radio shack installed behind the cockpit, with the
original tube radios.  It was quite a sight.  The pilot said the owner
was sentimental...

Here are some sounds
http://www.centercomp.com/cgi-bin/dc3/sounds?13

A lot of old D18s and even DC-3s were converted to turbine engines, D18s
on tricycle gear with a nose wheel, they performed really well but
looked strange.  I would love to have a DC-3.  I was at a car show a few
years ago, a couple there had a couple old cars of some sort, I
overheard them talking to someone they knew about having to sell some of
their cars and planes, including the DC-3 (the woman said sadly I loved
that plane), when the all bidness went sour a few years before.  I
didn't know whether to be sad for them or not, though they seemed like
regular folks who happened to have some varying fortunes (exceeding mine
though).

--R

LarryT wrote:

Hi Rich -
Great story - BTW, a 5 gal of oil weighs *about* 48 #'s.  Back when I was
flying we had to calc the weight of everything so we wouldn't be 
overweight

and to get the planed loaded properly - we used 8#s as a number to get us
close when calculating fuel weight.  Those Cessna 150s I learned in were 
the

240D of airplanes -

Those old Beechs are classic planes with a beautiful shape - like the old
DC3 which is used a lot still - after it was developed 60+ years ago --  
just
like the W123 in its various guises will be with us  loved by us for 
many

years to come -





___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.410 / Virus Database: 268.17.0/639 - Release Date: 1/18/2007







Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines

2007-01-19 Thread Jim Cathey
and to get the planed loaded properly - we used 8#s as a number to get 
us

close when calculating fuel weight.


Or as my dad always said: A pint's a pound the world around.
He had flight training, in the reserves.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines

2007-01-19 Thread Rich Thomas

Sometimes that isn't a bad thing!

--R

LarryT wrote:

Thanks Rich - my memory isn;t what is used to be. ;-)
  
  





[MBZ] Semi OT

2007-01-19 Thread Frederick W Moir

Calling All Gurus (Gurii?)
When downloading and viewing the list mail I sometimes only get one 
half of the question-answer pair, usually just the answers.

Any ideas?
TIA
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Cold Diesel Days.





Re: [MBZ] OT House Building

2007-01-19 Thread Harry Watkins

My wife and I built our 1800 sq ft steel frame home on a full size basement,
clear span through out.  We did everything except the cement pours/finishing
and the HVAC.  Built the 10 ft high basement walls without mortar, just dry
stack and use a surface bonding material, even a caveman can do it.  The
steel frame came as a kit and we screwed it together.  The walls are over
nine inches thick.  It took a long time and still has work to be done.  The
roof is metal attached to metal, no fire up there.  About the only thing I
had ever built before was a leaking dog house.

The house includes a Geo Thermal HVAC, a Flologic water circuit breaker
(shuts off if leaking), built-in vacuum system, black and gray waste water
system, a water operated garbage disposal, remote control ceiling fans, a
winter and summer filtered HVAC air return ( floor level in winter and
ceiling level in summer), an elevator ( home made), suspended concrete porch
and deck, a UV light system in the HVAC system and one end of the basement
is a garage.

Harry


On 1/17/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


There is a local guy who has been building new houses on my street the
last couple of years (tears down the old 1kft2 cottages and puts up
3.4kft2 new ones).  He is a stickler on all the details.  I have spent
time with him on site, and have myself done interior trim, restoration,
rebuilding, etc. on new and older houses.  All the contractors use
guest workers and he watches them like a hawk, and makes sure it is
done right.  When I have worked with these guys I have been a PITA too,
but get good results.

Foundation and frame are the keys -- if the foundation is not level,
square, solid nothing else will be.  The frame needs to be level, plumb,
square as do all interior frames, doors, windows, etc. (and properly
dimensioned).  Every night you go around with the plan, a tape, and a
level and make sure the day's work was done properly.  If not, next
morning Jose gets to redo it (they do learn quickly as they are paid by
the job).  You also check the lumber that is delivered, make sure it is
good stuff.  Make the vendor take it back if not good, give you credit
or replacement.  [Materials is a cut-throat business, lots of
competition, do not let them off easily.  Get to know your sales guy and
make him perform.]  OSB is OK for sheathing but ply is better.  Decking
should be TG ply, glued and nailed or screwed (this adds some work and
cost but will insure the floor is tight and does not squeak).  Check
rough stairs closely (glue on these too).  Make sure the walls are
straight, no warps, twists, bows, etc. -- this raises hell with
cabinets, doors, tile, trim, etc.

After the house is closed in then you watch the electricians and
plumbers closely.  A master should check all the work that the guest
workers do, and you check him.  If it is not right, it gets redone to
spec (you would be surprised how many of the trades are smarter than
the architects or the owner or builder).  Pay close attention to where
outlets and switches are and what wires run where.  It is hard to fix
once the sheetrock is up.

The rest of it is fairly easy.  On bathrooms go with cement board, not
greenboard (sheetrock) if codes allows it.  Might cost a little bit
more, but it will last forever.  Thinset for tiles, not adhesive.  Check
the trim guys to make sure their joints are tight and fit right.
Painters can make up for some but the work should be good to begin
with.  Check installed door frames for good door fit (uniform gaps).
Use quality hardware in your cabinets if you have site-built cabs.  Most
cabinets today are expensive and cheaply made though they might look
nice.  Site-built stuff is a similar cost and should be better if you
get a good carpenter (here the guest workers seem to do well, I think
there is some pride in craftsmanship).  Here is where you want to
focus.  Choke on the cost and go with stone or dense plastic for
countertops, use quality fixtures and sinks and appliances.  These will
have the highest payback when you go to sell, and will last well.  You
will enjoy them.

Quality materials costs add only a small fraction to the total cost, and
will last much longer than cheap stuff.  Get to know your buidling
inspector.  He can be a total PITA and your best friend too.  DO NOT go
cheap on stuff.  If you can't do it right and well, don't do it at all.
Expect your budget to have some overruns.  If you are buying an
already-built house, you're on your own.  I would find some that are a
couple years old by the same builder, go look at them and talk to the
owners.  Also find some that are currently under construction and check
them closely.  Don't fall in love with how the house looks.  Paint and
stuff can cover up a lot of faults.

One other thing - if you are building on your own, you might look into
hiring a construction manager rather than a builder, and doing your own
general contracting and bill paying.  The CM can ride herd while you
deal 

Re: [MBZ] OT The mighty fell My Saab stranded me in cold

2007-01-19 Thread Zoltan Finks

It was based on how much fuel went into the tank when I filled up.

Brian

Steve wrote:
Was your observation on tank level based on memory of when last topped up,
or the gauge? Gauges can do odd things in the cold, on older cars.


[MBZ] Bad gas recourse - was Saab stranded me in cold

2007-01-19 Thread Zoltan Finks

If it does seem to be bad gas, let me ask:

How many of you have been through that, and what recourse do we have, and
how did you we best go about pursuing it? I mean besides going in there and
chewing the cashier out. I wish there was a way to find out if there have
been other complaints regarding the same station.

Could the gas really be bad enough to cause my engine to flat quit?

Brian
talking about saab '84 900

Jim wrote:
Can you say 'bad gas'?  Fillup followed by a stalled engine a
few miles down the road is classic.


Re: [MBZ] Semi OT

2007-01-19 Thread Billr
Fred, Many times people only send the answers and not the questions they are
answering.  The trimmed posts are generally useful, but do make it hard to
follow if you are no a frequent list lurker as I am.  Other thoughts?
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD 284k 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Frederick W Moir
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 12:58 PM
To: Mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] Semi OT

Calling All Gurus (Gurii?)
When downloading and viewing the list mail I sometimes only get one half of
the question-answer pair, usually just the answers.
Any ideas?
TIA
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Cold Diesel Days.



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





Re: [MBZ] Bad gas recourse - was Saab stranded me in cold

2007-01-19 Thread Loren Faeth



uh. Yes
It only takes a thimbleful of water.

At 12:19 PM 1/19/2007, you wrote:

Could the gas really be bad enough to cause my engine to flat quit?



Leeee.. I own a gas station.  I pay a buck 90 or so for gas.  Gas 
has ethanol in it.  Ethanol will suspend water.  Water costs 3 or so cents 
per gallon.  How could I increase my profit margin?  I work on slim 
margins.
hmmm  What if I add water to the storage tank?  Cheap, easy, and 
more bucks.  All I have to do is figger out how much water i can put in the 
tank, based on how much water the alcohol will suspend, and the %alcohol in 
the gas...


Now, what if this rube or the rube at the gasoline distributor put in a 
little more water than the alcohol can suspend? Or the station rube put in 
water but didn't know the distributor had already added water?

Then there is condensation etc...

Zoltan is stranded  Saab won't run

Recourse? add some de-icer to the tank, thaw out the Saab and go 
on.  Anything else is a waste of time.


Loren Faeth 





Re: [MBZ] Semi OT

2007-01-19 Thread Frederick W Moir

Hi, All.
Should have been clearer. The message that was the question part of 
this thread was acknowledged by mercedesbounces as received, but I 
did not get the original post. I did check that my settings in 
okiebenz had not changed. Over.

cue: 'Scarecrow Song from Wizard of OZ
Fred Moir
Lynn MA



Fred, Many times people only send the answers and not the questions they are
answering.  The trimmed posts are generally useful, but do make it hard to
follow if you are no a frequent list lurker as I am.  Other thoughts?
BillR
Jacksonville FL
1981 300SD 284k

Calling All Gurus (Gurii?)
When downloading and viewing the list mail I sometimes only get one half of
the question-answer pair, usually just the answers.
Any ideas?
TIA
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Cold Diesel Days






Re: [MBZ] OT House Building

2007-01-19 Thread R A Bennell
Not picking fault or anything similar - just noting an interesting point (at 
least from my point of view).
The soil conditions where you are must be pretty stable. We are on what was 
glacial Lake Aggisez (not sure I
spelled that correctly). The gumbo like clay in the Red River Valley is prone 
to a lot of movement when dry or wet
conditions happen. We are not permitted to use concrete block walls here so far 
as I know for the basement. We are
all poured concrete with rebar but the walls still crack. I have been cleaning 
and moving junk around in my
basement to make more usable space and  noting that I have some new cracks in 
my basement walls of late. Not bad
enough to call in the engineers but not something that I like to see. My house 
was built in 1981 so it is not
ancient. My basement floor looks like a roadmap.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Harry Watkins
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 12:08 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Building


My wife and I built our 1800 sq ft steel frame home on a full size basement,
clear span through out.  We did everything except the cement pours/finishing
and the HVAC.  Built the 10 ft high basement walls without mortar, just dry
stack and use a surface bonding material, even a caveman can do it.  The
steel frame came as a kit and we screwed it together.  The walls are over
nine inches thick.  It took a long time and still has work to be done.  The
roof is metal attached to metal, no fire up there.  About the only thing I
had ever built before was a leaking dog house.

The house includes a Geo Thermal HVAC, a Flologic water circuit breaker
(shuts off if leaking), built-in vacuum system, black and gray waste water
system, a water operated garbage disposal, remote control ceiling fans, a
winter and summer filtered HVAC air return ( floor level in winter and
ceiling level in summer), an elevator ( home made), suspended concrete porch
and deck, a UV light system in the HVAC system and one end of the basement
is a garage.

Harry


On 1/17/07, Rich Thomas [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 There is a local guy who has been building new houses on my street the
 last couple of years (tears down the old 1kft2 cottages and puts up
 3.4kft2 new ones).  He is a stickler on all the details.  I have spent
 time with him on site, and have myself done interior trim, restoration,
 rebuilding, etc. on new and older houses.  All the contractors use
 guest workers and he watches them like a hawk, and makes sure it is
 done right.  When I have worked with these guys I have been a PITA too,
 but get good results.

 Foundation and frame are the keys -- if the foundation is not level,
 square, solid nothing else will be.  The frame needs to be level, plumb,
 square as do all interior frames, doors, windows, etc. (and properly
 dimensioned).  Every night you go around with the plan, a tape, and a
 level and make sure the day's work was done properly.  If not, next
 morning Jose gets to redo it (they do learn quickly as they are paid by
 the job).  You also check the lumber that is delivered, make sure it is
 good stuff.  Make the vendor take it back if not good, give you credit
 or replacement.  [Materials is a cut-throat business, lots of
 competition, do not let them off easily.  Get to know your sales guy and
 make him perform.]  OSB is OK for sheathing but ply is better.  Decking
 should be TG ply, glued and nailed or screwed (this adds some work and
 cost but will insure the floor is tight and does not squeak).  Check
 rough stairs closely (glue on these too).  Make sure the walls are
 straight, no warps, twists, bows, etc. -- this raises hell with
 cabinets, doors, tile, trim, etc.

 After the house is closed in then you watch the electricians and
 plumbers closely.  A master should check all the work that the guest
 workers do, and you check him.  If it is not right, it gets redone to
 spec (you would be surprised how many of the trades are smarter than
 the architects or the owner or builder).  Pay close attention to where
 outlets and switches are and what wires run where.  It is hard to fix
 once the sheetrock is up.

 The rest of it is fairly easy.  On bathrooms go with cement board, not
 greenboard (sheetrock) if codes allows it.  Might cost a little bit
 more, but it will last forever.  Thinset for tiles, not adhesive.  Check
 the trim guys to make sure their joints are tight and fit right.
 Painters can make up for some but the work should be good to begin
 with.  Check installed door frames for good door fit (uniform gaps).
 Use quality hardware in your cabinets if you have site-built cabs.  Most
 cabinets today are expensive and cheaply made though they might look
 nice.  Site-built stuff is a similar cost and should be better if you
 get a good carpenter (here the guest workers seem to do well, I think
 there is some pride in craftsmanship).  Here is where you want to
 focus.  Choke on the 

[MBZ] Semi OT redux

2007-01-19 Thread Frederick W Moir
Well I just received the original email at 15:03 sent at 12:57, 
acknowledged at 13:03.

Fred dammit, patience!
TTFN
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel dummy





Re: [MBZ] OT House Building

2007-01-19 Thread David Brodbeck
Harry Watkins wrote:

 My wife and I built our 1800 sq ft steel frame home on a full size
 basement, clear span through out.

Sounds like a pretty rewarding project.  Having watched a commercial
remodeling project in one of the local suburbs, though, I have to say
around here just dealing with the bewildering array of permits,
inspections, and plan submission requirements seems like it'd be a
full-time job.  I suspect that sort of project is out of reach here for
someone without professional help or a lot of experience in the
construction trade.  The business that was doing the remodel hired
professionals and still ended up getting shut down due to not pulling the
right permits and having to rework about half of the job due to failed
inspections.




Re: [MBZ] Education

2007-01-19 Thread Zoltan Finks

Hey Larry,

Interesting indeed, and I can attest to its truth. I've gone back to
school - never went to college as a young man. I'm now, I guess, an
official college senior.

I don't know the answers to about half those questions you listed. But then
again I'm almost twenty years farther away from my high school and earlier
education. We have not been required to learn that information about our
country or government here at this respected private college.

What we have been required to learn in every single class other than some
of the math and science and art ones, is that our country is bad, and that
Americans are backwards and should feel guilty and look to Europe for
salvation. Traditional Judeo-Christian concepts are regularly ridiculed and
laughed at by the enlightened Phd instructors, history is revised, and the
Koran and Bhuddism etc. are looked to for inspiration. Wisdom can also be
found by looking to Mother Earth and the animals (of which we are the most
wicked). This is a Catholic college.

Oh well, whatever it takes to be able to get a decent job.

Brian


On 1/17/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


In our recent discussions about education, etc - I found this in my in box
today --

the Intercollegiate Studies Institute by the University of Connecticut's
Department of Public Policy, surveyed 14,094 college freshmen and seniors
at
50 U.S. colleges and universities from Massachusetts to California. It
found
a stunning ignorance. Seniors scored an average of 53.2 on the 60-question
civics test. That's a big, fat F. More than half of college seniors could
not identify the correct century in which the Jamestown colony was founded
or name the battle that ended the American Revolution. Truly frightening,
more than half also did not know that the Bill of Rights forbids the
federal
government from establishing a national religion. These are college
seniors.
Among the institutions whose students were surveyed: Dartmouth, Yale,
Harvard, the University of California at Berkeley, the University of North
Carolina at Chapel Hill, and the University of Michigan. It should go
without saying that in a republic, civic education is a fundamental
necessity. If even our elite college graduates have no idea what the First
Amendment does, the country is in trouble.

I thought it interesting --

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Quality


 Tom Hargrave wrote:
 I'm sure that today's Mercedes are more reliable (better quality) than
 those
 manufactured in the 90's and those manufactured in the 90's are more
 reliable (better quality) than those manufactured in the 80's, etc,
etc.


 A lot of the complaints seem to be in the fit and finish category.
 Interior pieces falling off, paint flaking off, etc.  Those things don't
 make a car unreliable, but they do really hurt its image.  It seems like
 when a car maker wants to cut costs, the interior is the first place
 they go.  GM's current cars, for example, drive pretty nicely but they
 have the interior materials of a much cheaper vehicle.

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Re: [MBZ] Semi OT redux

2007-01-19 Thread Billr
Do the messages talk back to you, Fred  
Yes, time delay in emails is something that is often frustrating and
occasionally problematic.  My wife is deaf and info is easier to send via
email, but it occasionally is hours, rather than seconds, in getting there.
BillR
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Frederick W Moir
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 3:06 PM
To: Mercedes
Subject: [MBZ] Semi OT redux

Well I just received the original email at 15:03 sent at 12:57, acknowledged
at 13:03.
Fred dammit, patience!
TTFN
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel dummy



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Re: [MBZ] OT House Building

2007-01-19 Thread Billr
Any wanting a building nightmare could warp back to the Homestead, FL area
in the years after hurricane Andrew.  The codes were changed every few weeks
[or so it seemed].  A builder down there built a housing complex [Ryan
homes, and he also donated one to the org. I worked for] only to have the
city change the rating requirement for the sliding glass doors after they
were built.  He donated 125 door sets to Habitat for Humanity and installed
new ones.  After waiting for months to get the specs for street lighting he
installed lamps to get the much needed project finished, then they decided
on the new specs ... Had to change all of those, too.  I knew several people
in the area at the time and that was a constant source of complaint for
years ... Not that upgrading standards wasn't a needed thing, but it was
most difficult for the EXTREMELY busy construction / reconstruction folks.
BillR  

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David Brodbeck
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 3:13 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Building

Harry Watkins wrote:

 My wife and I built our 1800 sq ft steel frame home on a full size 
 basement, clear span through out.

Sounds like a pretty rewarding project.  Having watched a commercial
remodeling project in one of the local suburbs, though, I have to say around
here just dealing with the bewildering array of permits, inspections, and
plan submission requirements seems like it'd be a full-time job.  I suspect
that sort of project is out of reach here for someone without professional
help or a lot of experience in the construction trade.  The business that
was doing the remodel hired professionals and still ended up getting shut
down due to not pulling the right permits and having to rework about half of
the job due to failed inspections.


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Re: [MBZ] radial before cranking

2007-01-19 Thread RELNGSON
The sump is a separate tank - I think they call these 'dry sump' engines. 
Oil doe s collect in the bottom cylinders while it's sitting- you have slowly 
crank the engine through a couple of turns before
 trying to start it (aircraft application)
 
You pull it through by hand. Outside.

RLE/R-985 pilot in the dim dark past




Re: [MBZ] dry sumps

2007-01-19 Thread RELNGSON
 The dry sump was also used on the M100 engine, Triumph motorcycles and 
 lots
 of aircraft applications.   I think the 300SL (not the 90s one, but the
 real 300SL) had a dry sump.  I believe the water cooled Allisons, Rolls
 Royce and Daimler-Benz V-12 aircraft engines of WWII were all dry sump
 
How could you forget the Porsche 911?

RLE
 
 



Re: [MBZ] dry sumps

2007-01-19 Thread R A Bennell
Also Harley Davidson motorcycles.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 3:21 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] dry sumps


 The dry sump was also used on the M100 engine, Triumph motorcycles and
 lots
 of aircraft applications.   I think the 300SL (not the 90s one, but the
 real 300SL) had a dry sump.  I believe the water cooled Allisons, Rolls
 Royce and Daimler-Benz V-12 aircraft engines of WWII were all dry sump

How could you forget the Porsche 911?

RLE



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Re: [MBZ] radial before cranking

2007-01-19 Thread R A Bennell
Is the oil collected in the bottom why they usually make some smoke when they 
fire up?

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 3:17 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] radial before cranking


The sump is a separate tank - I think they call these 'dry sump' engines. 
Oil doe s collect in the bottom cylinders while it's sitting- you have slowly 
crank the engine through a couple of turns before
 trying to start it (aircraft application)
 
You pull it through by hand. Outside.

RLE/R-985 pilot in the dim dark past


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Re: [MBZ] Liquid weights

2007-01-19 Thread RELNGSON
 Avgas and JetA weigh in at 6#/gal, water is 8ish, I would guess oil is
 closer to 6, maybe a bit more.  A big bucket swinging around on a wet
 oily wing seems to weigh a TON!
 
For flight planning purposes, avgas weighs 6 pounds per gallon and engine oil 
weighs 7.5 pounds. Or so said the FAA when I went to ground school. Of 
course, standard passenger weight was 170 pounds in those days and just 
recently 
that number was raised since the percentage of obese passengers has gone up. 
Way 
up. 

BTW, the oil tanks in a Grumman Goose hold 14 gallons per side.

RLE






Re: [MBZ] Liquid weights

2007-01-19 Thread Werner Fehlauer
You mean to say that only passenger weight went up?  I seem to recall taking 
my check ride with an instructor that had to sit sideways in the 150, and I 
was crammed up against the door.  And the 150 had the extended range 
tankage, which of course was kept full in the Alaska temperatures, so that 
we took almost 5000 ft of runway and stayed in ground effect for another 
mile just to get in the air.  I suspect we had about 500 lbs of souls on 
board that 2-passenger aircraft!


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Liquid weights



Avgas and JetA weigh in at 6#/gal, water is 8ish, I would guess oil is
closer to 6, maybe a bit more. A big bucket swinging around on a wet
oily wing seems to weigh a TON!

For flight planning purposes, avgas weighs 6 pounds per gallon and engine 
oil

weighs 7.5 pounds. Or so said the FAA when I went to ground school. Of
course, standard passenger weight was 170 pounds in those days and just 
recently
that number was raised since the percentage of obese passengers has gone up. 
Way

up.

BTW, the oil tanks in a Grumman Goose hold 14 gallons per side.

RLE






Re: [MBZ] OT House Building

2007-01-19 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Randy - unless your builder was exceptional, there probably isn't much 
rebar in the concrete - floor slab, foundation, or walls.  From the 1950s 
on, many builders skipped rebar in foundations, and used wire mesh in slabs 
when they thought of it.  And all that on earth that wasn't fully compacted 
or undisturbed.  How often do you think a laborer just shovels in a bit of 
dirt because they want to save a bit on the concrete?  Or water down the mix 
to make it easier to work, thereby weakening the final product??


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Building


Not picking fault or anything similar - just noting an interesting point 
(at least from my point of view).
The soil conditions where you are must be pretty stable. We are on what 
was glacial Lake Aggisez (not sure I
spelled that correctly). The gumbo like clay in the Red River Valley is 
prone to a lot of movement when dry or wet
conditions happen. We are not permitted to use concrete block walls here 
so far as I know for the basement. We are
all poured concrete with rebar but the walls still crack. I have been 
cleaning and moving junk around in my
basement to make more usable space and  noting that I have some new cracks 
in my basement walls of late. Not bad
enough to call in the engineers but not something that I like to see. My 
house was built in 1981 so it is not

ancient. My basement floor looks like a roadmap.

Randy





[MBZ] Expensive M-B driving

2007-01-19 Thread Werner Fehlauer
I see where the lady in Texas that used her M-B to run over her cheating 
husband in 2002 has been ordered to pay her in-laws $3.75 million.  She is 
already convicted of murder and serving a sentence of 20 years in prison.

So who said driving an M-B is inexpensive??

Werner





Re: [MBZ] OT House Building

2007-01-19 Thread R A Bennell
Hey Werner

Probably not a lot of rebar. I was there when they setup the basement forms but 
really cannot remember what there
was. None in the floor of course. We added onto the house in 87 and the 
engineer that helped to design and then
stamped the drawings did not want us to cut holes in the concrete wall into the 
part that is now crawl space under
the new part because he feared we would cut rebar and reduce the strength of 
the wall.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Werner Fehlauer
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 4:28 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Building


Randy - unless your builder was exceptional, there probably isn't much
rebar in the concrete - floor slab, foundation, or walls.  From the 1950s
on, many builders skipped rebar in foundations, and used wire mesh in slabs
when they thought of it.  And all that on earth that wasn't fully compacted
or undisturbed.  How often do you think a laborer just shovels in a bit of
dirt because they want to save a bit on the concrete?  Or water down the mix
to make it easier to work, thereby weakening the final product??

Werner

- Original Message -
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2007 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT House Building


 Not picking fault or anything similar - just noting an interesting point
 (at least from my point of view).
 The soil conditions where you are must be pretty stable. We are on what
 was glacial Lake Aggisez (not sure I
 spelled that correctly). The gumbo like clay in the Red River Valley is
 prone to a lot of movement when dry or wet
 conditions happen. We are not permitted to use concrete block walls here
 so far as I know for the basement. We are
 all poured concrete with rebar but the walls still crack. I have been
 cleaning and moving junk around in my
 basement to make more usable space and  noting that I have some new cracks
 in my basement walls of late. Not bad
 enough to call in the engineers but not something that I like to see. My
 house was built in 1981 so it is not
 ancient. My basement floor looks like a roadmap.

 Randy


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Re: [MBZ] Bad gas recourse - was Saab stranded me in cold

2007-01-19 Thread Zoltan Finks

Thank you for your succinct information. I didn't know that water was the
only thing that could contaminate gasoline. Since it is, my car's prognosis
is much better.

Brian


On 1/19/07, Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




uh. Yes
It only takes a thimbleful of water.

At 12:19 PM 1/19/2007, you wrote:
Could the gas really be bad enough to cause my engine to flat quit?


Leeee.. I own a gas station.  I pay a buck 90 or so for gas.  Gas
has ethanol in it.  Ethanol will suspend water.  Water costs 3 or so cents
per gallon.  How could I increase my profit margin?  I work on slim
margins.
hmmm  What if I add water to the storage tank?  Cheap, easy, and
more bucks.  All I have to do is figger out how much water i can put in
the
tank, based on how much water the alcohol will suspend, and the %alcohol
in
the gas...

Now, what if this rube or the rube at the gasoline distributor put in a
little more water than the alcohol can suspend? Or the station rube put in
water but didn't know the distributor had already added water?
Then there is condensation etc...

Zoltan is stranded  Saab won't run

Recourse? add some de-icer to the tank, thaw out the Saab and go
on.  Anything else is a waste of time.

Loren Faeth


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Re: [MBZ] [OT] Radial Engines

2007-01-19 Thread Peter Frederick
I heard from a WWII airman that a B-26 used 50 gal of fuel and 5 gal of 
oil and hour in cruise flight, more at full throttle.


Those old radial engines were sloppy -- oil dribbled out the pushrod 
tubes, the head gaskets, and jug seals, and they do burn quite a bit.  
1940's technology, mostly -- cars used a lot of oil in those days, too.


Newer design are better, but so long as they are air cooled, they run 
pretty hot by water cooled standards, and it's hard to keep them sealed 
up.


They all use dry sumps -- there is an oil collection ring on either 
side of the single crankpin where the oil collects and it's pumped form 
there back into the main tank where the air bubbles separate out.  The 
pressure feed pump draws off the bottom of the main tank instead of the 
crankcase.


Some designs used stacked pumps (scavenger on top, feed on bottom) on 
a common shaft -- that way you at least had sump oiling.


When the feed pump shears, two things used to happen:  The pilot lost 
control of the propellor pitch (oil pressure operated) and the engine 
seized from oil starvation and usually the oil on the engine caught 
fire from the heat -- there are plenty of stories about this.  Pan Am 
and BOAC both had at least one instance where the magnesium propellor 
housing caught fire on a seized engine at altitude when the oil 
pressure dropped too fast to feather out the prop -- must have been 
quite a sight, burning magnesium spinning off the blades.  Luckily, the 
housing failed and the prop spun off and away from the airframe before 
the wing burned throught on that Boeing 377, and the fire went out.


An oil pressure failure caused Howard Hughes to crash the experimental 
twin interceptor during WWII -- an oil seal failed on the 
counter-rotating prop system causing loss of pressure and inadvertent 
reverse pitch on one side.  Needless to say, the plane instantly became 
unflyable with power on that engine.  He'd probably been OK if he'd 
understood what was going on in time to shut the engine off, but it's 
rather hard, I hear, to figure that out during a flight emergency


Odd that only the Russians managed to get a reliable counter-rotating 
dual prop setup to work during the 50's -- very well, too as the 
Tupolev Bear uses them, along with any number of freighter designs.


Peter