Tim -
Interesting you should ask as I just had a locksmith make a duplicate key
for my '81 SD today in Long Beach CA. The machine appeared to be a
computerized CNC like milling machine. My understanding from my Indy is that
they insert the key to be copied into the machine and it reads out the key
So you've had all these dramas with MB over the years but still keep
buying these heaps?
Are you a glutton for punishment?
Hendrik
who'd rather push his MB than drive a BMW, although the last time one of
my Benzes was pushed the missus got to do the pushing
relng...@aol.com wrote:
. I
Barry Stark wrote:
Tim -
Interesting you should ask as I just had a locksmith make a duplicate key
for my '81 SD today in Long Beach CA. The machine appeared to be a
computerized CNC like milling machine. My understanding from my Indy is that
they insert the key to be copied into the machine and
showed up. Finally some real competition, like them or not, and the
W202 was far better, at least in M104 form.
RLE
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It is not surprising that you can have that done in a Mercedes-rich
environment like Long Beach. (SOCAL in general) In the most of the
rest of the country, there is 0% chance of a locksmith having that
sophisticated equipment.
my former E320 was from a top 10 population area and it came
Jaime,
Welcome to the okie list!
At 08:55 PM 8/21/2009, you wrote:
Hi everyone,I joined the list to forward this myself!
Jaime
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From: Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com
Date: Fri, Aug 21, 2009 at 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: [Banned] maybe Jaime can chime in
That is why it is best to wait until they are 7-15 years old, and the
ellingsons of the world have paid for all the repairs.
At 01:04 PM 8/22/2009, you wrote:
So you've had all these dramas with MB over the years but still keep
buying these heaps?
Are you a glutton for punishment?
Hendrik
the head and noticed it was made in Italy.
Barry
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it was made in Italy.
Barry
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Don -
I never said it was a great value or even equal to the dealer supplied key.
I believe the question that I was responding to was about machines using the
key code to produce the key. I was surprised that a sophisticated key
duplicating machine like this even existed in a neighborhood
So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140. Im down to
pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts. I
have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the
WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out with
this
On Sat, 22 Aug 2009 14:13:28 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:
I have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but
the WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out
with this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor
Yup -- 1968 was the first year for the M116, I think, with D-Jet.
D-Jet is pressure regulated, and Benz decided that it was vasty
easier to use K-Jet (and later KE-Jet and LH-Jet) injection as the
emissions requirements tightened up. D-Jet was hard to adapt to
feedback, I think, and K-Jet
Use the other extractor, it's better than a slide hammer, and is in
fact the one specified in the manual. Works great.
Loosen the head bolts in reverse order of tightening. I've done that
for 30 years or more now, it's pretty much the standard way to do
things.
There is a specified way
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I already removed the cam in the specified manner.
Peter Frederick wrote:
Use the other extractor, it's better than a slide hammer, and is in
fact the one specified in the manual. Works great.
Loosen the head bolts in reverse order of tightening. I've done that
for 30 years or more now,
I used a long bolt with multiple layers of washers and a nut to apply
pressure. Was not pretty, but it worked. Washers fit over the pin to
apply pressure at the base topped off with one with a smaller hole
that allowed the nut to seat and transfer pressure to the others.
Looking for tightening
My copy of WIS won't start. Not sure why. I see it on the Process
list, but no window appears.
The sequence is in there somewhere. It's a bad scan of a bad drawing
with numbers in circles showing the order. About half the numbers are
legible.
As I recall there were 2 torque steps, then you turn
Actually, it does, but not by number. I'll dig it up later. Center
out, alternating sides.
Big pain, really takes two people to do, one to work the wrench and
one to keep track of the bolts.
Peter
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On Sun, 23 Aug 2009 03:34:59 +0930 Hendrik Fay heni...@ozemail.com.au
wrote:
So you've had all these dramas with MB over the years but still keep
buying these heaps?
Are you a glutton for punishment?
Hendrik
who'd rather push his MB than drive a BMW, although the last time one of
my
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D-Jet was hard to adapt to feedback, I think, and K-Jet gives better
fuel mixture regulation at all speeds, too. D-Jet is electronic,
K-Jet mechanical,
D-Jet was more complex, and less reliable IIRC.
That extra set of points...
-- Jim
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Can anyone tell me the size of the headlight on the W110?
Yeah, take your choice:
1) It's about so big holds up fingers.
2) 12V
I couldn't resist! :-)
-- Jim
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Indiana
--
I've come to your planet on a Class IV Intergalactic Doom Freighter. -
Adrian Monk
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Well you know I didn't want to get my glass slippers dirty so I told her
to get out and push.
Seriously though, this was an South African W123 200 with a carby on
it, it was always running rich and using fuel like it was free, so I was
forever fiddling with it. Anyway this particular time
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The part I don't get is you whine about how unreliable MBs are, list a
100 or so faults you have had over the years but keep buying them,
whether they where fixed under warranty or not doesn't come into it. I
would have thought you might have bought another brand to avoid the
weekly trip to
That unreliable extra set of four, actually. Long before the days of
inductive pickups, after all. With a crank position sensor and
breakerless ignition it's not so bad, but by then K-Jet was cheaper
and simpler.
Peter
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For
Old cars that pretty much drive like the day the exited the showroom.
Hendrik
with an old 89 TE that has a few rattles after 380K kmhs but it does the
job and everything (including climate control and cruise) works on it
relng...@aol.com wrote:
...That is why it is best to wait until they
Two or four headlamps? With two, almost always 7. With four, 5
3/4. DOT sealed beam, that 's all that was legal until the 80's.
Peter
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, 76 300D,
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serpentine belt tensioner that the 602/603
uses?
--
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Pair of W124 300D 2.5 Turbos
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Well just got done getting the head off. Geez. Thought I had
everything loose, would not come off, had a bracket from exhaust
manifold to block still attached. OK, unhooked it, still would not come
off. Discovered a head bolt I forgot to get loose, still wont come
off. Another head bolt
OK Don wrote:
How many miles per gallon can one expect to get, highway and/or mixed, in
one of these cars?
look on fueleconomy.gov
Do you have to burn premium fuel, or will it adjust the timing for regular
or medium?
you have to at least use mid grade
What to look for other than
Yes, it does. Center out, as always, to avoid trapping stresses.
Actual sequence depends on the gasket. Some are two torque steps,
some are a single torque step and then two 90 degree turns, with a 10
min settling time between. That was the case on the 603, anyway.
Use new bolts, too
than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their
own ways.
-- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger.
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560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 85 190D, 84 190D,
84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com
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looking from the naked eye it seems the rest stick up just a bit past
the deck, and #1 is flush. Also, I can see the cross hatch marks in
all the cylinders, even #1 but I do not know if its just my
imagination, the lighting or what but it seems like the marks in #1
are fainter than the rest.
I think that an acid flush, and a check of whether
the recirculation sealing surface of the double-acting
thermostat's housing was in good shape, would be called
for.
-- Jim
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What is with all the oil around cylinders 1 and 6? Looks more like head
gasket issue?
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
'85 300D (280,176) parts car sans engine
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Kaleb:
On the head job:
head gasket is failed on # 1 and #6, #1 into the oil passage and #6
into the head bolt holes. May also have been blown into the water
passages -- that glassy carbon is the result of water in the
cylinders. Could be a sign of a cracked head, but it's not typical
240D, 76 240D, 76 300D,
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When I did the head on my SDL, there was a specific pattern given in the
manual. Same pattern for both tightening and loosening.
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
About every since I have had the car, there has been quite a bit of oil
on the outside of the engine above the alternator, could not tell where
it was coming from though. Reason I pulled the head was because it had
to be coming from the gasket. After pulling the head, it almost looks
like it
That was the recommendation I got from the guy who made his living
working on MBs -- not cheap, but they tend to not hold very well the
second time. Far less hassle than another head RR, too.
I had no choice, anyway, one broke off at the rear where the head
gasket was blown into the bolt
I measured the head bolts and all of mine were on the short end of the
manual recommended range. 30,000mi+ later and the engine still runs
like a top.
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D (74 kmi)
Engine was using increasing amounts of water as well, so it was a good
call to pull the head off. I had hoped it would just be a simple head
gasket job. Im suspect of #1 rod though. I just want to make sure I do
this right, what is the best way to measure all this in simpleton
terms?
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, former 2.5
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periodically, quite
disturbing.) Wifey insists on a CD, one that can play the recorded
rehearsal CD's the symphony issues.
-- Jim
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Can the bumper shock where it attaches to the bumper be re-attached or
will i need to buy a new bumper?
Thanks,
Mike
1984 300D
1982 300SD
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Thanks to all - I'm going to look at it tomorrow afternoon.
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:
new bolts are a little over $70 from Rusty.
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systems. Rack and pinion steering that doesn't feel like the W210's.
You better watch out before you bring on one of your spells.
RLE
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other car I've even owned? ... I deferred that task for another afternoon!
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to trust and
confide in his chiefs more than his wardroom, but mustang officers had their
own ways.
-- Tom Clancy, Clear and Present Danger.
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Wonko the Sane wrote:
I am still brain dead over its instructions on how to drain
coolant. Open a plug on the engine block vs. drain from the
bottom of the radiator like any other car I've even owned? ...
I deferred that task for another afternoon!
When you open the radiator drain, it
held in place by two tabs -- the rear tab is broken off. Could this
perhaps
be preventing the system from pressurizing as it should?
_Does_ the system pressurize as it should? Stop the car hot,
and see if there's pressure to release. If there isn't, you'll
have problems with overheating.
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