date:20100520

Amen to the heater controls that actually work and the best washer 
system ever developed.  Things I miss most about 110s in the 123, 
124, and 126 and all the DEETriot iron.



You must have one of them thar new-fangled W123 Mercedes, the ones 
that have something called 'climate control' where the heater and 
A/C should be.  Don't forget with a W115, we are talking about a 
car that has a mechanical windshield washer!  You operate it by 
pumping a floor pedal with your left foot.  Simple.  Old school.


:)

Tom Schuch
SE Connecticut
1975 300D W115
and a half dozen BMWs




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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

2010-05-20 Thread Curt Raymond

Piffle, my 240D has manual climate control, dual zone no less...

-Curt

Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 22:51:16 -0400
From: tom tomscat tomsc...@hotmail.com
To: mercedes diesel mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] check engine light??
Message-ID: bay109-w24d20abc1ade0cf8f6c5068d...@phx.gbl
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Becker
(Europa, I think).  Old style, push button analog.  I may upgrade to an
old Blaupunkt (complete with cassette player or, wait is it an
8-track?) that I have on the shelf but not in any rush to do it
until I replace the antenna.  

You must have one of
them thar new-fangled W123 Mercedes, the ones that have something
called 'climate control' where the heater and A/C should be.  Don't
forget with a W115, we are talking about a car that has a
mechanical windshield washer!  You operate it by pumping a floor pedal
with your left foot.  Simple.  Old school.

:)

Tom Schuch
SE Connecticut
1975 300D W115
and a half dozen BMWs 

Message: 3
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 12:39:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com
To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] check engine light??
Message-ID: 662450.40818...@web32804.mail.mud.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

I don't remember the radio in your car Tom but all 3 of mine have digital 
tuners. Thats probably got a computer right?

Curt

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: check engine light??

2010-05-20 Thread Jim Cathey

Amen to the heater controls that actually work and the best washer 
system ever developed.  Things I miss most about 110s in the 123, 124, 
and 126 and all the DEETriot iron.


Same system _my_ Detroit iron also had.  Or, could have had, had
my grandmother ordered that option.  (Windshield washer, that
is.)  The only option she did order on the Falcon was the heater.
Kind of glad she did get that one!  No radio either.  Yeah,
baby, factory plate!  Still, in fact.

Imagine, a kid's first car, driven for years, and it _never_
got tunes of any sort!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] You know you want this

Yes, all that equipment is certainly droolworthy.

On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 8:52 AM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 http://charleston.craigslist.org/tls/1748818968.html

 --R

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[MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits
conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head (including the
SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty
work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head.  If
that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks
with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper
fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

So I have several questions.

1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?  If I
take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
determine?

2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I
remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is
disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The engine is
currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested.
As usual, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

2010-05-20 Thread Rolf


Not having done with take my words with a grain of salt.

1. I would have the good head rebuilt. If you are going to do it, do 
it right. Metric motors comes to mind. I have heard of magna fluxing as 
well but not sure of the pros/cons.


2. Stripped headbolts I'd think.

3. You need an engine hoist, the head is heavy.

4. See 1.

5. The only difference on the 85 engine is the crank snout and the IP.  
Not sure if you can use a 85 tc on earlier models, I am sure someone has 
tried it though. (google ftw?)


-Rolf
On 05/20/2010 11:55 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:

I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits
conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head (including the
SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty
work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head.  If
that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks
with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper
fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

So I have several questions.

1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?  If I
take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
determine?

2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I
remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is
disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The engine is
currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested.
As usual, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

And mine does not work worth a darn. Seems whenever I check it in the garage, 
it works fairly well, but once I am
on the street, I have difficulty getting any fluid to the windshield and end up 
with the wipers running on the dry
glass.

Randy

-Original Message-

You must have one of them thar new-fangled W123 Mercedes, the ones that have 
something called 'climate control'
where the heater and A/C should be.  Don't forget with a W115, we are 
talking about a car that has a mechanical
windshield washer!  You operate it by pumping a floor pedal with your left 
foot.  Simple.  Old school.

:)

Tom Schuch
SE Connecticut
1975 300D W115
and a half dozen BMWs






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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

Mine does not appear to leak at the floor level but it is not pumping the way 
it ought to.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 11:23 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

 with a W115, we are talking about a car that has a mechanical 
 windshield washer!  You operate it by pumping a floor pedal with your 
 left foot.  Simple.  Old school.

Washes your toes as often as not.  Repair bladder NLA.
Mine's got Shoe Goo on it.

-- Jim

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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: check engine light??

Used to be able to buy aftermarket washer sytems like that too. I installed one 
in my 65 Mustang as it did not have
the factory option either. It worked well. Just the rubber pump bulb on the 
floor and tubing to the resevoir and
hood nozzles. It did not turn on the wipers automatically like the MB does. 
That is probably what I should do -
disable the auto wiper function so that I can pump the doodad a few times and 
try to get fluid before the wipers
start - or just install a modern aftermarket pump kit.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 9:02 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: check engine light??


 Amen to the heater controls that actually work and the best washer
 system ever developed.  Things I miss most about 110s in the 123, 124,
 and 126 and all the DEETriot iron.

Same system _my_ Detroit iron also had.  Or, could have had, had
my grandmother ordered that option.  (Windshield washer, that
is.)  The only option she did order on the Falcon was the heater.
Kind of glad she did get that one!  No radio either.  Yeah,
baby, factory plate!  Still, in fact.

Imagine, a kid's first car, driven for years, and it _never_
got tunes of any sort!

-- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

2010-05-20 Thread pm7088

Magnaflux show cracking in magnetic materials, Dye Pen in used in aluminum. 

A word of caution here, they often show non relevant indications which for our 
application could cause you to scrap serviceable parts. Make sure the person 
doing the checking is aware of your requirements. 


-- 

Peter Arnold 

Windsor, CT 

- Original Message - 
From: Rolf r...@winmutt.com 
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 12:22:18 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon 

Not having done with take my words with a grain of salt. 

1. I would have the good head rebuilt. If you are going to do it, do 
it right. Metric motors comes to mind. I have heard of magna fluxing as 
well but not sure of the pros/cons. 

2. Stripped headbolts I'd think. 

3. You need an engine hoist, the head is heavy. 

4. See 1. 

5. The only difference on the 85 engine is the crank snout and the IP. 
Not sure if you can use a 85 tc on earlier models, I am sure someone has 
tried it though. (google ftw?) 

-Rolf 
On 05/20/2010 11:55 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote: 
 I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D 
 engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits 
 conversion into a real 300TD. I found a 300TD cylinder head (including the 
 SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty 
 work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head. If 
 that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks 
 with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper 
 fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works. 
 
 So I have several questions. 
 
 1. How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good? If I 
 take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they 
 determine? 
 
 2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I 
 remove the old head? What is a worst case scenario? 
 
 3. Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice? 
 
 4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is 
 disassembled: valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims, etc. The engine is 
 currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately. 
 
 Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested. 
 As usual, TIA. 
 
 Andrew 
 1983 300TD 
 1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon 
 ___ 
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 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ 
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: 
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
 


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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

2010-05-20 Thread Mitch Haley


R A Bennell wrote:

And mine does not work worth a darn. Seems whenever I check it in the garage, 
it works fairly well,


Can you adjust it to hit the top of the windscreen at rest, then a little 
headwind will bring it in line? Or maybe a new check valve in the supply line 
would allow you to stomp more pressure to the nozzle?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

2010-05-20 Thread Alex Chamberlain

On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 10:11 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 R A Bennell wrote:

 And mine does not work worth a darn. Seems whenever I check it in the
 garage, it works fairly well,


 Can you adjust it to hit the top of the windscreen at rest, then a little
 headwind will bring it in line?


Isn't it the other way around?  IIRC the official aiming instructions for
the 124 in the FSM tell you to aim the nozzles to hit about halfway or maybe
two-thirds of the way up the windshield as a compromise, since at high
speeds airflow will pull the stream upwards, and at low speeds gravity will
do the opposite.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

2010-05-20 Thread Greg Fiorentino

Removing the head provides a good opportunity to replace (if needed) valve
guide seals, which are dirt cheap.

Where I live, near Portland, OR there is a machine shop that does this sort
of work and has a very good reputation.  Unless you are very near Metric
Motors, I would think you could do better with a local shop.  Look for
credible local recommendations.

Magnafluxing is not too expensive, and very worthwhile.  If cracks are
found, they might be repairable.

The shop should be able to determine if valves and seats need to be
reground, and to do this at little cost.

A skim milling of the mating surface to true it up is probably necessary.

I RR'd a head on an old Volvo B18 engine a long time back and just used a
come-along from an overhead beam to pull it.  I suppose the Benz head is a
lot heavier.

You should be able to have a shop do this all for a few hundred, depending
on your location.  Call shops to get a ballpark figure.

Greg

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 8:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits
conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head (including the
SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty
work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head.  If
that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks
with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper
fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

So I have several questions.

1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?  If I
take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
determine?

2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I
remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is
disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The engine is
currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested.
As usual, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

It hits the window fine when it pumps at all. The problem is that it often just 
does not deliver any fluid at all.
Yesterday morning I wanted to rinse the accumulated dust off and I pressed the 
pump a dozen times and got nothing.
I believe there is fluid in the tank but will check.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 11:11 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] check engine light??


R A Bennell wrote:
 And mine does not work worth a darn. Seems whenever I check it in the garage, 
 it works fairly well,

Can you adjust it to hit the top of the windscreen at rest, then a little
headwind will bring it in line? Or maybe a new check valve in the supply line
would allow you to stomp more pressure to the nozzle?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

Let me recommend a few boxes of the blue rubber gloves. Not all that pleasant 
to wear when it is hot out but they
really keep your hands clean. Bad enough with gas engines but usually worse 
with diesel. Buy lots, change often and
keep clean. Good for many other chores too, like painting and even cooking. My 
wife has taken to keeping a box
under the sink and wearing them if she is preparing a chicken for the oven etc.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 9:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon


I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits
conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head (including the
SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty
work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head.  If
that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks
with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper
fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

So I have several questions.

1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?  If I
take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
determine?

2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I
remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is
disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The engine is
currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested.
As usual, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

Hey, also a camera. Document this for the rest of us who have not had a head 
off of  one of these engines. Take
notes and photos and tell us all about it.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 9:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon


I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits
conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head (including the
SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty
work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head.  If
that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks
with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper
fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

So I have several questions.

1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?  If I
take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
determine?

2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I
remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is
disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The engine is
currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested.
As usual, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??


Much better than the ACC junk MBNA foisted on us.



Piffle, my 240D has manual climate control, dual zone no less...

-Curt


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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

2010-05-20 Thread Donald Snook

Sorry to get us back on topic, but I am still trying to figure out how to check 
the codes on my 1995 E320.  Is the group wisdom that I need to get a code 
reader?

Donald H. Snook

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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

I bought a great cylinder head R/R DVD on ebay for a very good price.
Although the directions are quite clear and the videography is excellent,
this is one b*tch of  job.  You basically take the entire top of the engine
off!  Labor rate is pegged at 10 - 15 hours.  With my imperfect sense of
order and organization, I need adult supervision to keep from messing up
pieces and sequences.

If I do decide to go ahead, I will document this major operation, for
posterity at the very least.

On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 3:00 PM, R A Bennell b...@mts.net wrote:

 Hey, also a camera. Document this for the rest of us who have not had a
 head off of  one of these engines. Take
 notes and photos and tell us all about it.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
 Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 9:56 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon


  I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
 engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits
 conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head (including the
 SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty
 work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head.
  If
 that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks
 with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper
 fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

 So I have several questions.

 1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?  If I
 take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
 determine?

 2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I
 remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

 3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

 4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is
 disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The engine is
 currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

 Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested.
 As usual, TIA.

 Andrew
 1983 300TD
 1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
  ___
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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

2010-05-20 Thread John Reames

You don't have to Jack the car, except for disconnecting the exhaust,  
and don't need a lift or hoist.


You will need the special long 12mm XZN socket, a head gasket set, a  
turbo oil feed gasket, injector beat shields, manifold stud nuts,  a  
timing chain tensioner gasket and a timing rail pin puller. (I used a  
socket and some bolts...


Disconnect battery(remove ground cable).
Remove air cleaner. (cap turbo inlet; I have found that some aerosol  
can caps, ie pb, carb cleaner, etc may fit nicely).

Thoroughly clean and degrease engine compartment.
Disconnect exhaust @TC.
Drain radiator/coolant.
Drain the engine oil.
Disconnect and remove injection lines (cap off the delivery valves and  
the injectors if possible).

Disconnect the alda line @ the back of the intake manifold.
Disconnect/remove upper radiator hose.
Loosen clamps on short hose between water pump and head.
Disconnect all lines going to the fuel filter and remove it.
Disconnect all electrical and vacuum lines from the intake manifold,  
exhaust manifold and head (move the harnesses away)

Disconnect and remove the turbo supply line.
Disconnect egr line at valve.
Remove manifold stud nuts and washers.
Slide manifolds to the side (off the studs).
Remove valve cover.
Set engine to TDC#1 (confirm by examining valve positions)
Mark the timing chain and the cam gear.
Remove the timing rail pin(s) that go into the head.
Remove the timing chain tensioner.
Remove the cam timing gear and work chain past shaft.
Remove all head bolts (don't forget the ones outside the head, there  
is one on the arm that holds the fuel filter)

Lay a 2x6 across the fenders.
Use chain (or even 3/8 rope) to lash the head to the 2x6 using the  
factory supplied lift eyes.


Triple check that everything is clear (vacuum lines, etc)

Have a buddy help lift the head slowly (you take one end then he the  
other).
Verify that nothing is still attached/will snag on/interfere with head  
removal as you move through the first 2-3


Swap equipment to other head as needed.
Assemble as reverse, observing torque specifications and sequences.  
Use the cam timing gear from your old head and observe your markings.


I have the XZN tool that I can loan to you if you still work near the  
east side of Lafayette square in DC...


As to the head... If it was removed from a good engine then you  
probably don't need to mess with it... I guess you could have it  
magnafluxed or xrayed for cracks...


Visual inspection of the valves, seats, cam and rocker surfaces are  
probably all that's needed.


You could have the whole thing rebuilt if you want, but the bottom end  
will still be the old one...


As for opportunistic repairs...
Replace turbo drain seals.
Timing chain/tensioner/rails (do this AFTER you have it back together  
and the cam timing gear set! You do not want the cam timing to get  
mucked with since diesels are interfereance (sp?) engines!)


I do not remember what you need to go through with respect to the ac  
line or if any other things like oil cooler lines, are involved...


I haven't done an estate so I can't provide any help with the sls  
stuff...


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On May 20, 2010, at 11:55, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com  
wrote:



I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system  
merits
conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head  
(including the
SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of  
heavy duty
work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the  
head.  If
that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear  
shocks
with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with  
proper

fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

So I have several questions.

1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?   
If I

take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
determine?

2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise  
when I

remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

4. What among the following should I install or replace once the  
engine is
disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The  
engine is

currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely  
interested.

As usual, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
___
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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

2010-05-20 Thread WILTON

Hot?  In Manitoba?   ;)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: R A Bennell b...@mts.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

Let me recommend a few boxes of the blue rubber gloves. Not all that 
pleasant to wear when it is hot out but they
really keep your hands clean. Bad enough with gas engines but usually 
worse with diesel. Buy lots, change often and
keep clean. Good for many other chores too, like painting and even 
cooking. My wife has taken to keeping a box
under the sink and wearing them if she is preparing a chicken for the oven 
etc.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 9:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits
conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head (including 
the
SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy 
duty
work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head. 
If

that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks
with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper
fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

So I have several questions.

1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?  If I
take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
determine?

2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I
remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is
disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The engine is
currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested.
As usual, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
___
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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

Great. I am most likely lifting the motor out of my boat this weekend to have a 
look inside. A small block Chevy so
not quite so interesting as the diesel.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 1:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon


I bought a great cylinder head R/R DVD on ebay for a very good price.
Although the directions are quite clear and the videography is excellent,
this is one b*tch of  job.  You basically take the entire top of the engine
off!  Labor rate is pegged at 10 - 15 hours.  With my imperfect sense of
order and organization, I need adult supervision to keep from messing up
pieces and sequences.

If I do decide to go ahead, I will document this major operation, for
posterity at the very least.

On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 3:00 PM, R A Bennell b...@mts.net wrote:

 Hey, also a camera. Document this for the rest of us who have not had a
 head off of  one of these engines. Take
 notes and photos and tell us all about it.

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
 [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
 Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 9:56 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon


  I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
 engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits
 conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head (including the
 SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty
 work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head.
  If
 that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks
 with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper
 fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

 So I have several questions.

 1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?  If I
 take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
 determine?

 2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I
 remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

 3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

 4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is
 disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The engine is
 currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

 Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested.
 As usual, TIA.

 Andrew
 1983 300TD
 1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
  ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

Well, maybe not by your standards but it has been warm for us for the past few 
days. Plus 30 whatever that works
out to in F. They have brainwashed me over the years into the C scale. May cool 
off a bit this weekend as it is
supposed to rain some. Of course, it is the first long weekend of summer so it 
must rain, right?

Down side is that the bugs will be coming out since it is staying warm over 
night now. I liked the warm days and
cool nights that we were having. Had to start out with a jacket in the AM but 
it was nice by 9 or 10 and the bugs
did not come out as it was down near 0 over night. All C temps of course.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 1:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon


Hot?  In Manitoba?   ;)

Wilton



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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

2010-05-20 Thread John Reames


Why did I read for my posterior ('s sake) there...?

I had to do one a while back to replace a head gasket that was leaking  
coolant to the outside of the block due to a DPO using green in it.


--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On May 20, 2010, at 15:14, andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com  
wrote:



I bought a great cylinder head R/R DVD on ebay for a very good price.
Although the directions are quite clear and the videography is  
excellent,
this is one b*tch of  job.  You basically take the entire top of the  
engine
off!  Labor rate is pegged at 10 - 15 hours.  With my imperfect  
sense of
order and organization, I need adult supervision to keep from  
messing up

pieces and sequences.

If I do decide to go ahead, I will document this major operation, for
posterity at the very least.

On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 3:00 PM, R A Bennell b...@mts.net wrote:

Hey, also a camera. Document this for the rest of us who have not  
had a

head off of  one of these engines. Take
notes and photos and tell us all about it.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 9:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon


I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985  
300D
engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system  
merits
conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head  
(including the
SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of  
heavy duty
work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the  
head.

If
that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear  
shocks
with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with  
proper

fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

So I have several questions.

1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?   
If I

take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
determine?

2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise  
when I

remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

4. What among the following should I install or replace once the  
engine is
disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The  
engine is

currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely  
interested.

As usual, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
___
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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

Is there a spot to plug it in? Most of the code readers don't work on pre 96 
vehicles. They were OBDI and the newer
version is OBDII. I think that some of the older OBDI units could be made to 
flash the dash lights and one could
read the codes in that manner. Have never done it so am speaking from memory of 
things read on the net etc.


Now OBDII is sort of interesting. Plug in the scan tool and it tells you what 
to look for. Some of the fancier
units will give a data stream while the engine is running and being driven. My 
inexpensive one will not do that.
Engine must be off if I recall and it just tells me what code was set and lets 
me delete and reset if I wish so
that I can see if it happens again.

My son just replaced the O2 sensor on the Maxima on Sunday. It kept setting the 
code and he would reset it but he
was concerned that he my cause harm to the cat if he left it doing that for 
very long so I picked up the sensor for
him and it seems to have solved the problem.

Remember that the code is only a hint at what is wrong. I had codes on my 
Supercrew a  couple of years back and it
did tell me what was bad but not in a way that meant much to me. I changed out 
several COPs before I learned that
there was a bare wire shorting the poor things to ground and frying them. After 
a couple I started looking to see
what was up but in the interim had swapped one to the next cylinder and as such 
ended up with 2 dead ones.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]on Behalf Of Donald Snook
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 1:15 PM
To: 'Mercedes@okiebenz.com'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] check engine light??


Sorry to get us back on topic, but I am still trying to figure out how to check 
the codes on my 1995 E320.  Is the
group wisdom that I need to get a code reader?

Donald H. Snook


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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon


1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?  If I
take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
determine?




Have the machine shop resurface the valves and seats, check the valve 
guides, and replace the valve seals with the seals YOU provide! 
(This is all standard.  Just tell them to do the valves, and you have 
to use THESE seals (hand them the bag of seals) They will call you if 
there are any concerns.)  They might tell you the head is cracked 
when it is ok.


As long as it has no big visible cracks the head should be ok.  older 
4 cyl, the spec was any crack LESS than 10mm long is ok.  cracks run 
valve seat to prechamber and seat to seat.   I think the 5cyl is the 
same, but check the manual.  These cracks are very evident.  No 
magnaflux is needed.  Save your money.


Ask your most trusted Independent shops in the area who does the best 
for Mercedes heads.  Go with the one that the most shops recommend.


The shop will check the head for flatness.  I have never had to have 
one planed.  I doubt you need the head surface planed.  Again, the 
machine shop will tell you if it needs it.  you DO NOT WANT to have a 
DIESEL head planed, unless it is absolutely necessary.  There is only 
about  1mm clearance between the head and the top of the piston. 
That is 21 to 1 compression.  Shaving 0.2 mm off the head raises that 
compression ratio too high.  If the head IS planed, READ THE ENGINE 
MANUAL.  It will detail the procedure for adjusting planed heads.  I 
would buy a NEW head before I would have a DIESEL head planed.   on 
VWs, you have to measure the piston protrusion, then order a head 
gasket with the offsetting thickness.  MB has a different procedure.




2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I
remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?


Buy cap-plugs from the local  injection shop to cap the injector 
nozzles and the IP delivery valves.  They should also have larger 
ones for the base of the nozzles.  Number the nozzle holders.  While 
the head is at the machine shop, take the nozzles to the injection 
shop for testing and calibration.  Put the nozzles back in the  same 
hole they came out of.


Measure the chain stretch before disassembling anything.  Replace if necessary.

Be vewy vewy careful when you break the timing chain.  Actually, you 
don't have to break the chain.  Remove the chain tensioner, remove 
the cam followers,  then take the sprocket off the camshaft.   (you 
can push the cam back, or remove the cam with bearing towers at the 
same time. (check the cam and followers for wear.)


Worst case:  drop a link or clip from the chain down the chaincase 
and get it lodged in the crank sprocket.  That necessitates taking 
the engine out, flipping it over, removing the pan, and then 
extracting the chunk from the sprocket.


Be sure to park the crank at TDC for #1 cyl.  (you can determine this 
by watching when the #1 DV on the IP delivers fuel (with the lines 
off))




3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?


No lift, no jackstands.  The head weighs somewhere around 80 Lb. 
Having 2 people to lift it out of the engine compartment is handy.  I 
have always done them by myself.




4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is
disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The engine is
currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.


Valves, only if needed (machine shop will tell you)  USE ONLY MB 
VALVE SEALS from Rusty or the stealer.  Buy the head set of gaskets 
(Rusty).  It is a good time to replace the heater hoses, radiator 
hoses, thermostat and fuel return line. Fuel lines under  the hood 
and primer pump, if needed, too.



It is not hard, but you need to be careful, pay close attention to 
timing elements and injection elements, and not get in a hurry.  The 
first one will take a long time.  subsequent ones go faster.  And 
don't miss the 2 capscrews INSIDE the chaincase.




Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested.
As usual, TIA.

Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

2010-05-20 Thread Mitch Haley


It sounds like the e320 is supposed to have a code readout gizmo near the 
battery?

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1p1rw-check-engine-light-on-1995-e320-engine-code-box-at-battery

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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

I don't think the 95 E320 is much different than a 94 E320.  You 
don't need a reader.  It is not ODBII.  Take a picture of the right 
inner fender area and send it to me.  Maybe I can figure out the code 
dealie from the picture.  The cover is a 2 or 3mm thick piece of 
plastic from what I could gather.  The cover on ours was gone.



Sorry to get us back on topic, but I am still trying to figure out 
how to check the codes on my 1995 E320.  Is the group wisdom that I 
need to get a code reader?


Donald H. Snook

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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

That is what I have been telling Snook, but he can't find it.  I 
called it near the shock tower, but that is also near the battery.



It sounds like the e320 is supposed to have a code readout gizmo 
near the battery?


http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1p1rw-check-engine-light-on-1995-e320-engine-code-box-at-battery

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Re: [MBZ] check engine light??

For Snook: Your car has a built-in led/sw at the diagnostic plug for
code retrieval...It's right there next to the right corner of the
battery on the right-side firewall that separates the battery from
the engine, a little black box with white numbers from 1 to 16. On
number two, there is a button. That is the button you press down and
hold for 4 seconds. To the right of this button is a little round
light. That is the LED that will flash.

Turn on key and push button - hold for 4 secs, release and count the
reply code flashes--- continue until all are flashed and original
repeats. One flash means No Codes Stored.

Code list:

1 No malfunction in system monitored
2 Heated O2 sensor inoperative
3 Lambda control inoperative
4 Air injection inoperative
5 Exhaust gas recirculation inoperative
6 Idle speed control inoperative
7 Ignition system defective
8 Engine coolant temp. sensor, open/short circuit
9 Intake air temp. sensor, open/short circuit
10 Voltage at hot wire mass air flow sensor too high/low
11 TN-signal (rpm) at engine control module (N3/4) defective
12 Heated O2 sensor heater, open/short circuit
15 Wide open throttle information defective
21 Bad Purge Switch-Over Valve
22- cam posistion sens. signal defect
23-intake man. pressure low
24- starter ring gear segments defect
25- knock sens
26- upshift delay SOV valve open/shorted
27-Deviation between coolant temp sensor circuits 1 2
28- coolant temp sens.

It sounds like the e320 is supposed to have a code readout gizmo
near the battery?

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/1p1rw-check-engine-light-on-1995-e320-engine-code-box-at-battery

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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

2010-05-20 Thread Mountain Man

Andrew wrote:
 ...and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty
 work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head.

Now... that is a car to own, I bet.
I recall seeing one fitted with manual trans about 15 years ago on
some car selling site before ebay took over selling stuff online.
Shoulda, woulda... but didn't.  Do you ride in the 3.5?  Have you
driven the 3.5?  That has always been a grail car in my mind.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

2010-05-20 Thread Curt Raymond

Ummm, yeah? The cylinder head IS the top of the engine...

-Curt

Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 15:14:31 -0400
From: andrew strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
To:
 Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject:
 Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon
Message-ID:
    aanlktikkzgwepus9ih6th_x2qhkrdrupyzsouziil...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type:
 text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

I bought a great cylinder head 
R/R DVD on ebay for a very good price.
Although the directions are 
quite clear and the videography is excellent,
this is one b*tch of  
job.  You basically take the entire top of the engine
off!  Labor 
rate is pegged at 10 - 15 hours.  With my imperfect sense of
order 
and organization, I need adult supervision to keep from messing up
pieces
 and sequences.

If I do decide to go ahead, I will document this 
major operation, for
posterity at the very least.

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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

Thanks.  The head actually appears not to be that heavy.  My car guy is very
strong so perhaps we can just muscle it around?

The head looks fine from visual inspection.  Is the head repairable at a
reasonable cost regardles of its actual condition upon testing?
On Thu, May 20, 2010 at 2:48 PM, Greg Fiorentino gf...@dslnorthwest.netwrote:

 Removing the head provides a good opportunity to replace (if needed) valve
 guide seals, which are dirt cheap.

 Where I live, near Portland, OR there is a machine shop that does this sort
 of work and has a very good reputation.  Unless you are very near Metric
 Motors, I would think you could do better with a local shop.  Look for
 credible local recommendations.

 Magnafluxing is not too expensive, and very worthwhile.  If cracks are
 found, they might be repairable.

 The shop should be able to determine if valves and seats need to be
 reground, and to do this at little cost.

 A skim milling of the mating surface to true it up is probably necessary.

 I RR'd a head on an old Volvo B18 engine a long time back and just used a
 come-along from an overhead beam to pull it.  I suppose the Benz head is a
 lot heavier.

 You should be able to have a shop do this all for a few hundred, depending
 on your location.  Call shops to get a ballpark figure.

 Greg

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
  On Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
 Sent: Thursday, May 20, 2010 8:56 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon

 I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
 engine and converted (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system merits
 conversion into a real 300TD.  I found a 300TD cylinder head (including the
 SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of heavy duty
 work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the head.
  If
 that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear shocks
 with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with proper
 fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.

 So I have several questions.

 1.  How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?  If I
 take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
 determine?

 2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise when I
 remove the old head?  What is a worst case scenario?

 3.  Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?

 4. What among the following should I install or replace once the engine is
 disassembled:  valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims,  etc.  The engine is
 currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.

 Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely interested.
 As usual, TIA.

 Andrew
 1983 300TD
 1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
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Re: [MBZ] Head R/R for 300TD wagon