TD or NOT TD that is the question.
Not mine etc.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Original Message
Subject:1985 Mercedes 300TD - $1000 (Beacon)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 17:49:28 -0800 (PST)
From: fred.s...@yahoo.com
To: fred.s...@verizon.net
{email} has forwarded you this crai
There is a discussion going on another list about this very
subject. There is no hard facts just observations. When someone
from M1 was asked if their new 15w50 was PAO/ester or group III
they avoided giving a straight answer. If it was in fact still
group IV/V that would have been a good se
D4 ATF (second item in the
list).
Hmmm...
I did the exact same thing, and I got the first two like your image
shows, and scroll down and the third item there is the MTL, no?
Attached is the image from my screen...
mao
-- next part --
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
N
Source of info please...
--
Pete Arnold
When you get older, you don't regret the things you did in life.
You regret the things you didn't do.
On 11/30/2010 6:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
You all are aware that they changed M1 to where its just a
hydrocracked group 3 oil now? Not worth
Why is a Benz different from a Yugo? Better engineering and Quality
Control.
--
Pete Arnold
Faith is knowing there is an ocean because you have see a brook.
-William Arthur Ward-
On 11/30/2010 6:43 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
why are those different than the one you can get at walmart?
The ONLY auto crancase additive I have ever used that actualy worked was
NAPA Rear Main Bearing Seal Leak Repair.
Add it to hot engine, run for 15 minutes and let sit o'nite.
I've had this stuff swell up the seals on 3 old cars, a good $4 shot on
an old car that's crapping up the driveway or oil
OK Don wrote:
> The "news" media is only an extension of Madison Ave. It is neither liberal
> nor conservative - it is advertising, should to the highest bidder. the
> market always wins!
Agreed.
You have made my point.
We have already passed a point of recovery.
We are a dead nation, pure and sim
4-wire is:
Left stop/turn
Right stop/turn
Marker lights
Ground
You need more, like the now-standard 7-wire Pollack connector,
to get everything and the brakes.
I liked the old plumb-in hydraulic brake controllers.
I've got one in the garage, for the maybe someday project.
-- Jim
___
Well I guess if I ever have to go into the rear end for something
else or get bored and have nothing to do, HA! I will try that.
There was really no problem with the springs when taking the rear
end down or back up. The whole thing comes straight down and if
you have the wheels off to begin wi
You all are aware that they changed M1 to where its just a
hydrocracked group 3 oil now? Not worth the price if you ask me.
On 11/30/2010 4:02 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
I put an email in to them and asked about that very thing as it seemed that way
on the website.
Still the 15w50 is a pretty da
why are those different than the one you can get at walmart?
On 11/30/2010 9:46 AM, pm7...@comcast.net wrote:
Some very new trucks have electric brake controls integrated with the truck's
wiring and electronics.
I tow 12k 5th wheel. I will only use the Prodigy and wire it carefully. Most
vehic
The 4 plug will not work the brakes, you should upgrade the plug
on your 96. The brake control wiring should already be in place
but you will have to hook it up.
On 11/30/2010 9:15 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:
I bought a trailer, has electric brakes and a round plug for
lights and brakes. My 2000
Hmmm, reading this propaganda item it seems like there might actually be
a brake controller built in?
http://www.bruceglueckchevy.com/preview/Suburban/
Suburban also incorporates features recently introduced on the new Chevy
Silverado full-size pickup, such as pre-wired trailer connections,
p
Hi Glenn,
Your idea has merit, my '96 Dakota was leaking badly from the rear main seal,
it was losing a qt in like 500 miles and I had no job or garage or tools to
work on it (this was before I had a house) so I tried synthetic in it. After
~20,000 miles the leak had slowed to ~1qt in 3,000 mil
glenn brown wrote:
Guys, I recently purchased an '85 300TD from my brother and this car had been previously diagnosed with valve stem seals which need replacing as there's considerable oil smoke after startup from cold but disappears after ~ 5 min. of running. Since I seem to recall the honorable
Guys, I recently purchased an '85 300TD from my brother and this car had been
previously diagnosed with valve stem seals which need replacing as there's
considerable oil smoke after startup from cold but disappears after ~ 5 min. of
running. Since I seem to recall the honorable Dr. Booth indic
I have mixed 0-40 and 15W-50 at up to 50/50 with good results. I
won't use 0w-40 in the older diesels (Iron or OM60x)
I put an email in to them and asked about that very thing as it
seemed that way on the website.
Still the 15w50 is a pretty dammed good oil and at that price I may
pick up 1
I think I have that wire for the second one, it was in the truck when we
bought it and I stuck it in the console. I vaguely remember someone
saying it was for trailer brakes, or something to do with towing. I
guess I had better go look at it. I guess I would still need to get one
of these con
> Do any manufacturers recommend 0W40, I wonder? I can't see needing
> to
> use 0W-anything, even a good synthetic, unless you lived somewhere
> ridiculously cold like inner Alaska.
>
> Alex..
>
Coupla small German outfits.
Porsche and Mercedes.
RLE
>
>
_
The online purchase worked for me last night. 3.99 for 12 Qt of
15W-50. As told, it shows up as $8 a qt until you check out, then
the price is 3.99/Qt. I tried the additional 20% code, and it said
the code worked, but the price was the same.
What about 20W-50? That's also good for the o
> Mitch Haley wrote:
> I suppose one of us should say why we like the Prodigy.
> AFAIK, there are three ways the controllers work.
>
> 1. On/off,
> 2. Progressive,
> 3. Proportional. Trailer brakes are applied hard when the
> vehicle brakes are applied hard. It's the only safe way to go
> IMO
I put an email in to them and asked about that very thing as it seemed that way
on the website.
Still the 15w50 is a pretty dammed good oil and at that price I may pick up 12
quarts...
-Curt
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 12:34:17 -0500
From: glenn brown
To:
Subject: [MBZ] $3.99 Mobil One
Message-ID:
- Original Message -
From: "OK Don"
One of the MB manual CDs includes o'scope shots of various wave forms that
let you differentiate between the two diode sets - peaks up or down - to
isolate which ones are bad. I think I saw it in the 124 set.
_okiebenz.com
Years ago there was a art
Actually the problem is MUCH more basic than lifetime. The proper stuff is of a
neutral pH and is buffered to stay that way for a while. The green stuff has a
pH of about 10-11, and bases will erode aluminum. Thankfully the OM61x engines
have cast iron blocks and heads, but unfortunately, the h
Both my '04 Focus ZTW wagon and my son's 2005 Focus sedan (both with the 2.3l 4
cylinder engine ) call for 0W-20. I get a heck of a deal from the local Ford
dealer for oil changes using their house brand synthetic blend, so I just use
that. When I get a house and a garage again I may go back t
That and it's purported effects on plastic tanks. Green stuff was supposedly
one of the causes of top tank outlet failures, IIRC.
Dan (hot in FL today while I suck down a frappacino at Starbucks)
--- On Tue, 11/30/10, Allan Streib wrote:
> From: Allan Streib
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hot and co
Yeah the scopemeters are neat. The 87/89 and (slightly upgraded) renumbered
brethren (189) can simultaneously display an ac voltage and it's measured dc
offset. It can also do duty cycle...
--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Nov 30, 2010, at 11:27,
The frequency of the ripple should be calculably related to engine rpm
(consider pulley diameters...) iirc some manufacturers used an AC output from
an alternator as a tach sensor...
--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Nov 30, 2010, at 9:11, Jim Cath
Our Ford Focus, an '02, takes 0W-20. There is a Motorcraft "synthetic blend"
in that weight, but I have normally used M1 in it. I do use the Motorcraft
filters, not so much because I think they're great but Wal-Mart stocks them,
they are not expensive, and I trust the OE brand more than Fram.
I thought MB recommended it for their newest gasoline engines.
I tried in in my OM617 once, and thought the engine sounded too noisy.
Pressure was always OK though, even hot.
Allan
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 10:38 -0800, "Alex Chamberlain"
wrote:
> On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 10:06 AM, Mitch Haley wr
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 10:06 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
Marshall and some others reported that OM60x engines ran noisy on 0W40 but
5W40 was OK.
Do any manufacturers recommend 0W40, I wonder? I can't see needing to
use 0W-anything, even a good synthetic, unless you lived
Our vergasser van recommended 0w-30 for better economy - less "drag" on the
engine with thinner oil. I don't use it though ---
On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 12:38 PM, Alex Chamberlain
wrote:
>
> Do any manufacturers recommend 0W40, I wonder? I can't see needing to
> use 0W-anything, even a good synthe
The "news" media is only an extension of Madison Ave. It is neither liberal
nor conservative - it is advertising, should to the highest bidder. the
market always wins!
On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 10:42 AM, Mountain Man wrote:
> OK Don wrote:
> > This will be the downfall of the USA.
>
> I think you a
On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 10:06 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
> Marshall and some others reported that OM60x engines ran noisy on 0W40 but
> 5W40 was OK.
Do any manufacturers recommend 0W40, I wonder? I can't see needing to
use 0W-anything, even a good synthetic, unless you lived somewhere
ridiculously c
One of the MB manual CDs includes o'scope shots of various wave forms that
let you differentiate between the two diode sets - peaks up or down - to
isolate which ones are bad. I think I saw it in the 124 set.
On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 8:11 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
> Would that also manifest itself a
glenn brown wrote:
I stopped by the local Advance Auto Parts store a little while ago and was told
that the Mobil 1 5W-40 synthetic diesel oil is not on sale.
1. you have to buy it online for in store pickup. Limit 12 quarts per order.
2. It works on 15W50 and 0W40 but I can't get it to work
You'll need the round connector and a brake controller, the flat 4 doesn't have
provision for brakes, they need to be powered by the tow-er.
-Curt
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 10:15:08 -0500
From: Rich Thomas
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] OT Trailer Wiring ??s
Message-ID: <4cf514fc.600
Err I think it's actually 15W-50
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 12:36 -0500, "Allan Streib" wrote:
> What about 20W-50? That's also good for the older diesels. Sadly it's
> nearly always out of stock at all the local FLAPs, and Wal-Mart does not
> stock it at all anymore. I've been using Chevron Del
What about 20W-50? That's also good for the older diesels. Sadly it's nearly
always out of stock at all the local FLAPs, and Wal-Mart does not stock it at
all anymore. I've been using Chevron Delo, but would like to use M1 for the
winter time.
Allan
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 12:34 -0500, "glenn
I stopped by the local Advance Auto Parts store a little while ago and was told
that the Mobil 1 5W-40 synthetic diesel oil is not on sale.
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to
Take out the steering shock? I am pretty sure its the bj at this point.
It protests the most when turning. Last night I went to pick up the car
from storage and no squeeks! Today, squeeks! Had my hopes up to. Its
totally rubber binding on metal. Still haven't had time to diagnose
further. Perh
OK Don wrote:
> This will be the downfall of the USA.
I think you are wrong.
I think this *was* the downfall of the USA.
There is zero desire or movement away from listening to jazz about
black friday / cyber monday - we love the palliative. We are dupes,
we know that, and we do not want to chang
Umm I thought that most VOM/DVM's had a capacitor in series with the
input... This ensures that only the ac component is measured.
True, to a point. Don`t expect much from a Harbor Freight type of meter.
Depends on the quality (price) of the multimeter (DVM/VOM). More expensive
meters do a
Not mine etc.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Original Message
Subject:87 mercedes turbo diesel engine 3.0 - $450 (mass)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 08:06:16 -0800 (PST)
From: fred.s...@yahoo.com
To: fred.s...@verizon.net
{email} has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.
P
Not Mine etc.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Original Message
Subject:mercedes turbo diesel motor - $600 (orlando)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 08:04:47 -0800 (PST)
From: fred.s...@yahoo.com
To: fred.s...@verizon.net
{email} has forwarded you this craigslist.org posting.
Please
pm7...@comcast.net wrote:
Some very new trucks have electric brake controls integrated with the truck's wiring and electronics.
I tow 12k 5th wheel. I will only use the Prodigy and wire it carefully. Most vehicles in the last 15 years have plug in harness available, I strongly recommend them.
Some very new trucks have electric brake controls integrated with the truck's
wiring and electronics.
I tow 12k 5th wheel. I will only use the Prodigy and wire it carefully. Most
vehicles in the last 15 years have plug in harness available, I strongly
recommend them.
--
- Original Mes
Rich Thomas wrote:
I bought a trailer, has electric brakes and a round plug for lights and
brakes. My 2000 Suburban has a round plug receptacle, hooks up fine.
My 96 Chebbie truck has a 4 terminal flat plug. I think I can find a 4
plug <--> round receptacle adapter, or should I get another r
I bought a trailer, has electric brakes and a round plug for lights and
brakes. My 2000 Suburban has a round plug receptacle, hooks up fine.
My 96 Chebbie truck has a 4 terminal flat plug. I think I can find a 4
plug <--> round receptacle adapter, or should I get another round
receptacle and
Uh oh, this is sounding worse by the minute...
On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 9:45 AM, Allan Streib wrote:
> I was under the impression that the main issue with green coolant was its
> short lifetime. If you are using regular green coolant you HAVE to change
> it yearly or bad things will happen. The
I was under the impression that the main issue with green coolant was its short
lifetime. If you are using regular green coolant you HAVE to change it yearly
or bad things will happen. The G-05 additives and buffers last a lot longer.
Allan
On Tue, 30 Nov 2010 09:39 -0500, "John Reames" wro
Bad links (actually worn out bushings) allow the torque load on the wheel to
tilt the wheel carrier since the link ends move much more than they should.
This allows the wheel to steer, causing the rear end to move sideways. When
they are really bad, the rear end twitches on shifts at high powe
If it has ever had green in it for any amount of time, my bets are on the head
gasket.
I had an 84SD that only lost coolant when really hot. I eventually saw streaks
down the passenger side of the block that started at the head-block interface.
(it had green in it when I bought it)
--
John W
Umm I thought that most VOM/DVM's had a capacitor in series with the input...
This ensures that only the ac component is measured.
--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Nov 30, 2010, at 8:57, "Mike Gildea" wrote:
>
>
>> I'll second that thought.
>>
Would that also manifest itself as a measurable AC waveform on top of
the expected DC voltage?
I'd expect so, but I've never had a scope available at the
same time as a bad alternator to prove this out. In theory
the AC ripple voltage would be higher too so that you could
use a decent multimete
I'll second that thought.
Would that also manifest itself as a measurable AC waveform on top of the
expected DC voltage? (I would also expect that it would kill batteries)
If you had a o`scope, you would be able to see the ac and dc waveforms, but
a multimeter will just average the reading
well the boots on the drivers side tie rod are split and dry, but
the other side looks fine although I suspect it may have bent a
little when the ball joint broke last spring.
On 11/29/2010 9:11 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
Are you sure you have bad tie rod ends? It might be the idler
and/or the cen
Isn't torque steer on a multilink due to the application and release of
pressure on the rear diff from the driveshaft? I don't know but this
seems like the most logical interpretation from what I am experiencing
now (mine is up for rebuild to).
-Rolf
On 11/29/2010 10:47 PM, Peter Frederick wr
I'll second that thought.
Would that also manifest itself as a measurable AC waveform on top of the
expected DC voltage? (I would also expect that it would kill batteries)
--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Nov 29, 2010, at 11:02, Jim Cathey wrote
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