Good catch Wilton, I have to be careful and not hang around foreign forums.
Anyway the way things are going it won't be long before we are
celebrating thanksgiving.
Hendrik
who has to keep telling daughter that it's biscuits, even though it says
cookies on the box
On 22/11/12 01:00, WILTON
Pull the clip and pop the hose out. No need to get under for the oil drain, it
just pops right off. You and also get the feed from up top, its just a blind
shot (although maybe not with fed manifold now that I think about it.
Sent from my Droid Charge on Verizon 4G LTE
Dieselhead
I just left it all together.
Sent from my Droid Charge on Verizon 4G LTE
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
Yes I wired the chain to the sprocket. It does require two people
and some finagling to put the head back on to work around the
sprocket.
-Rolf
What about the chain guide on the IP
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4AGoGBfQe8feature=youtu.be
--R
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Which car was yours, Rich?
On Sat, Nov 24, 2012 at 10:22 AM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4AGoGBfQe8feature=youtu.be
--R
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
Pick 3! speakinawhich I gotta go buy wunnathem $320M Powerball tikkees.
--R
On 11/24/2012 10:40 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
Which car was yours, Rich?
On Sat, Nov 24, 2012 at 10:22 AM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
Guess I shoulda started pulling the timing chain guide rail pins on
the head earlier. Top one came out ok. Bottom one is recessed in
the head. That way it collects water and induces that good ol steel
to aluminium chemical bond. It appears to have no separation between
the pin and the
I think mine was recessed as well.
Head is toast already, no? Drill it out, or break the guide and get a new
guide?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
Guess I shoulda started pulling the timing chain guide rail pins on
the head earlier.
Dieselhead wrote:
I'm not sure the goos ol mopar rust eater will help on this one. Because
it is steel to alum chemical bond, not even the mopar stuff eats that.
But I think it does help to berak it free, along with flame wrench or
wicked beating.
One old bicycle mechanic's trick for stuck
I think mine was recessed as well.
Head is toast already, no? Drill it out, or break the guide and get
a new guide?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD
I got it out. Used a different bolt. Yes, I have to take off the
drain tube from under, and take out the lower bushing/nut
So this head you are taking off is good, but you suspect the head gasket?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
I think mine was recessed as well.
Head is toast already, no? Drill it out, or break the guide and get
a new guide?
--
Max Dillon
The head is loose.
I have to go get a short hunk of chain to hook it up to the engine hoist.
Max, Yes, I am hoping the head is ok. Not proven yet.
No inspection yet, as I have not lifted it up yet.. Just got it
lose from the block. Left exhaust manifolds and turbo hang on the
head for
http://www.free-tv-video-online.me/player/gorillavid.php?id=5yh03i539dce
http://www.free-tv-video-online.me/player/gorillavid.php?id=yu66szmeis8r
Season five kick off episode
clay
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For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To
Exciting times!
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
The head is loose.
I have to go get a short hunk of chain to hook it up to the engine
hoist.
Max, Yes, I am hoping the head is ok. Not proven yet.
No inspection yet, as I have not lifted it
I need the MB Tex (palomino) for my 240D, s drivers seat. I intend to
rebuild the seat going the noodle route but the MBTex is shot. Is the MB
Tex skin interchangeable for the front seats? Anyone have it laying around
taking up space? What can you get it for, Rusty?
Bob R
1980 240D odo broke at
I wondered that as well. The chatty bloke seems to have a fresh set of wheels
on every season. Must be making buckets someplace else. And they have been
holding onto one or two rides
clay
On Nov 22, 2012, at 5:46 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
Problem is that the math never adds up because
Head gasket has a 1/4 gap at the front into an oil passage. Head
looks ok. I have it bundled up ready for the ride home. Will find
out then how bad the guides are.
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To search list
Got mine all buttoned up sans 7.5mm pump and its running just fine. Did
some spirited driving and couldnt get it up over 80 c. Kinda scary.
Wierd part is that my aux rad fan is on and wont stop running. Not sure
what to think about that since it has NEVER cut on before...
-Rolf
On
Fan switch is bad or the wire is grounded somewhere. It won't ever go
over 80C with the fan going and cool temps outside unless the
thermostat is bad.
Peter
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To search list archives
Yep, that gap would do it.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
Head gasket has a 1/4 gap at the front into an oil passage. Head
looks ok. I have it bundled up ready for the ride home. Will find
out then how bad the guides are.
Flushed the cooling system on the 300cd today. Went well, however, after I put
the new coolant and thermostat in, the temperature went to about 110 centigrade
and the top radiator hose was cold, as was the defroster. I drove it around the
block, and the car stayed at 110, and on arriving home
On Sat, 24 Nov 2012 19:24:56 -0600 Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com
wrote:
Flushed the cooling system on the 300cd today. Went well, however,
after I put the new coolant and thermostat in, the temperature went to
about 110 centigrade and the top radiator hose was cold, as was the
defroster.
Did you fully burp the system?
Air backed up will compress and cause issues, so getting any stray air out
allows the hot water to flow all around. Might be that after letting it cool
down, enough of the steam/compressed air escaped the system and more water was
then able to complete its
On Nov 24, 2012, at 7:41 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
Cooling system had air in it and wasn't burped prior being run. When
you drove around the block, the higher RPMs forced the air blockage out
of where it was lodged.
Has your coolant level gone down?
That's what I figured.
put it up on ramps when you fill so that the air has to travel upward to
escape. Light it off when you think it is full and keep it on the ramps until
the needle starts to move. Pop the cap and pour more water in until full, then
cap it and pull off the ramps and hit the road
clay
On Nov
Thanks. I'll try that on the kids car this week.
Rick
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 24, 2012, at 8:12 PM, clay monroe redgh...@comcast.net wrote:
put it up on ramps when you fill so that the air has to travel upward to
escape. Light it off when you think it is full and keep it on the ramps
Put it up on ramps. Remove upper radiator hose from radiator. Loosen
same hose at thermostat
housing then rotate hose so end you removed is pointing up. Fill with
mixed coolant until radiator
core is covered. Reattach hose to radiator then top off with coolant.
Start engine and wait until temp
Ya think? I took pictures. The metal part of the gasket is actually
blown up into the oil passage. Maybe a quarter inch. It is an
impressive blowout. I have never seen a gasket with a blowout like
this. I have seen a bigger blowout between cylinders (on a gas
engine) But a blowout into
What he said - except that I used the steep slope part of the driveway
instead of ramps.
On Sat, Nov 24, 2012 at 8:26 PM, Russ Williams rawil...@eatel.net wrote:
Put it up on ramps. Remove upper radiator hose from radiator. Loosen same
hose at thermostat
housing then rotate hose so end you
What happened?
Air bubble, big one. My method is to pour the coolant
into the tank, pull off the upper radiator hose and
backfill water into the system until it's pouring out
over my hand which is holding the bottom of the hose
against the bottom of the radiator neck, but leaving
a crack at
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