Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Dan Penoff
I would think so.

Balancing is just making sure the moving parts are equal in weight.  I can't 
see that being at all difficult in this environment.

Dan who once balanced and blueprinted a 1600cc Beetle engine.


On Dec 29, 2013, at 7:46 PM, OK Don wrote:

 I wonder if the manufacturing process is good enough to produce a balanced
 engine without cherry picking and matching parts? I was told (don't know if
 it's true) that MB engines, at least back in the 61x days were dynamically
 balanced at the factory. I didn't see any evidence of that in the video,
 but there was a lot we didn't see as well.
 
 
 On Sun, Dec 29, 2013 at 2:58 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 With today's possible manufacturing tolerances, it is not out of the
 question to grab a block, grab 8 pistons out of a box and have a perfect
 fit on the crank and all 8 bores.
 
 
 Reliability and repeatability of measurement, and of manufacturing is the
 key.
 
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 OK Don
 They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
 safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
 in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
 - Benjamin Franklin 1789
 2013 F150, 18 mpg
 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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[MBZ] Seat Belt Mechanism W124 '91 300D 2.5T

2013-12-30 Thread Larry T

Hi Gang,
The seat belt retractor is no longer operating smoothly  it 
sometimes fails to retract and can be difficult to extend.   The WSM 
lists some info about the retractor but it only has the  microfische 
location and not the complete Job Package.  (91-502)


Has anyone taken the seat belt mechanism from the B Post and 
repaired it?  I suspect it needs to be cleaned and lubricated more than 
anything.  Perhaps the rewinder can be tightened a little?


any ideas?

--
Sincerely,
Larry

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Re: [MBZ] Seat Belt Mechanism W124 '91 300D 2.5T

2013-12-30 Thread Dan Penoff
This has been discussed in the W140 conference over at Benzworld a bit.

Seems that the return spring just gets tired from age and use.

That being said, some people claim that by carefully spraying something like 
WD40 on the sides of the retractor and operating it briskly will get it to work 
again.

Haven't tried this one myself, but it's worth a try.

The alternative is replacement of the whole seat belt.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Dec 30, 2013, at 7:36 AM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Hi Gang,
The seat belt retractor is no longer operating smoothly  it sometimes 
 fails to retract and can be difficult to extend.   The WSM lists some info 
 about the retractor but it only has the  microfische location and not the 
 complete Job Package.  (91-502)
 
Has anyone taken the seat belt mechanism from the B Post and repaired it?  
 I suspect it needs to be cleaned and lubricated more than anything.  Perhaps 
 the rewinder can be tightened a little?
 
any ideas?
 
 -- 
 Sincerely,
 Larry
 
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Re: [MBZ] S600 eBay Deal upe1ujyz

2013-12-30 Thread Dan Penoff
What's so special about a VW Phaeton?

Don't think I've ever seen one in person.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Dec 29, 2013, at 9:42 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 
 For comparison, there are 6 VW Phaetons on eBay right now, all are V8s, and 
 only
 one has a current bid less than the buy it now on the S600.
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Seat Belt Mechanism W124 '91 300D 2.5T

2013-12-30 Thread Larry T
How would I access the retractor on a 4 dr W124, fully extend the belt 
and spray into the opening?No need to write at length - I'm sure I 
can figure it out -


Thx for the comments !

Sincerely,
Larry

On 12/30/2013 7:46 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:

This has been discussed in the W140 conference over at Benzworld a bit.

Seems that the return spring just gets tired from age and use.

That being said, some people claim that by carefully spraying something like 
WD40 on the sides of the retractor and operating it briskly will get it to work 
again.

Haven't tried this one myself, but it's worth a try.

The alternative is replacement of the whole seat belt.

Dan

Sent from my iPad


On Dec 30, 2013, at 7:36 AM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

Hi Gang,
The seat belt retractor is no longer operating smoothly  it sometimes 
fails to retract and can be difficult to extend.   The WSM lists some info about 
the retractor but it only has the  microfische location and not the complete Job 
Package.  (91-502)

Has anyone taken the seat belt mechanism from the B Post and repaired it?  
I suspect it needs to be cleaned and lubricated more than anything.  Perhaps 
the rewinder can be tightened a little?

any ideas?

--
Sincerely,
Larry

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Re: [MBZ] Seat Belt Mechanism W124 '91 300D 2.5T

2013-12-30 Thread Dan Penoff
On the W124 I would remove the B pillar covering which would give you immediate 
access to the retractor.  You do that by pulling up the threshold panels in 
both door openings, pulling the door opening welting (that fuzzy strip that 
surrounds the door opening) off, taking the two screws out of the trim piece at 
the bottom and pulling it down to disengage it from the panel, and lifting up 
on the panel.  It has a hook at the top that anchors the top of it to the B 
pillar.

No need to remove the belt, just lay the panel out of the way and you'll see 
the belt retractor underneath.

From what I have read regarding the W140 models (and I'm sure the retractors 
are pretty much the same across the board) people are spraying WD40 into the 
sides of the mechanisms where the springs are mounted.  This avoids getting 
any on the belt and targets the springs and the shaft which I presume the 
retractor rotates on.

It's not a 100% fix from what I'm hearing, but there are a number of people who 
have reported that it did make a difference.  Based on where these are located, 
I imagine they can accumulate a fair amount of cruft in them over the years

Dan

 
On Dec 30, 2013, at 8:33 AM, Larry T wrote:

 How would I access the retractor on a 4 dr W124, fully extend the belt and 
 spray into the opening?No need to write at length - I'm sure I can figure 
 it out -
 
 Thx for the comments !
 
 Sincerely,
 Larry
 


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Re: [MBZ] S600 eBay Deal

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead

On Dec 29, 2013 6:54 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:


 For comparison, there are 6 VW
 Phaetons on eBay right now, all are
 V8s, and only
 one has a current bid less than the
 buy it now on the S600.


They're both money pits, but I'd rather have the Phaeton--it's rare enough
to be a future classic.  Gotta have the W-12 if you're going to bother,
though.

Alex



S600 is not common and will be collectible

I could not find any location in the stupid fleabay ad so I asked the 
guy where it is.  Santa Monica, Calif


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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread dseretakis
The Saturn SL series was entirely US made as far as I know. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 30, 2013, at 1:54 AM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Dec 29, 2013 4:29 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I never could see any need for a
 geo or a saturn.
 
 What are you talking about?  Nobody mentioned Saturn.  The point was the
 hypocrisy of people in the '90s who said Buy American and then went to
 their Chevy dealer to buy a Geo (all of which were captive imports).
 
 Alex
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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting upe1ujyz

2013-12-30 Thread Mitch Haley

Alex Chamberlain wrote:

On Dec 29, 2013 4:29 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 I never could see any need for a
geo or a saturn.


What are you talking about?  Nobody mentioned Saturn.  The point was the
hypocrisy of people in the '90s who said Buy American and then went to
their Chevy dealer to buy a Geo (all of which were captive imports).


A lot of the Novas and Prisms, maybe all of them, were made in California, in a
plant half owned by GM (Nummi).

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Gary Hurst
i loved saturn and were quite sad to see them fail


On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 11:32 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 The Saturn SL series was entirely US made as far as I know.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 30, 2013, at 1:54 AM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
 wrote:

  On Dec 29, 2013 4:29 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I never could see any need for a
  geo or a saturn.
 
  What are you talking about?  Nobody mentioned Saturn.  The point was the
  hypocrisy of people in the '90s who said Buy American and then went to
  their Chevy dealer to buy a Geo (all of which were captive imports).
 
  Alex
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*reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars*
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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead


 

 What are you talking about?  Nobody mentioned Saturn.  The point was the
 hypocrisy of people in the '90s who said Buy American and then went to
 their Chevy dealer to buy a Geo (all of which were captive imports).


  Alex


my thought has nothing to do with origin.  I just never saw any need 
for the geo brand or the saturn brand.  I think the industry 
consolidation lends credence to that view.


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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Mitch Haley

Gary Hurst wrote:

i loved saturn and were quite sad to see them fail


You just didn't like the early Ecotec engines and their lack of oil pressure at 
low rpm?


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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead

I can't see any way of getting to the crank position sensor from above.

Kaleb, when you pulled 124 300D engines, do you remember seeing a 
sensor on top of the bell housing?


There is no space at all behind the engine in a 124, and the hmp is 
within and inch of the transmission pretty much all around.  I tried 
pulling fuses while it was racing.  no fuse seemed to matter.



PRIOR POST:

When the car settles down, it idles around 600 -650 RPM.   When it is 
flakey it goes from maybe 400 rpm, just barely running, to 1000 or 
1200 rpm with some instances of 600.  THe electrics seem to settle 
down when the engine warms up.  THis is a rust free southern car too. 
124 300D  OM603



Thanks!

I pulled the OVP relay from the SDL, popped out the 124 OVP and put 
in the SDL OVP.  Started up the 300D, no joy!  Rats!  I was hoping 
that might be a simple fix, if not cheap.


Battery terminals are snug.  I did not take them off, clean and 
replace.  Working on the 107 brakes first.


Is this Crank position sensor on the trans accessible on a 124/OM603 
without taking out the trans?  I don't remember ever seeing anything 
like that on a diesel.  Why would that cause the lights inside the 
car to flash off and on?  I could see idle speed and tach funkiness 
being caused there.


Working on it.  The idle control system has failed, and there are 
several causes.


OVP

crank position sensor (obviously, if it's bad or has intermittent 
connection, no tach, no idle speed control).  Usual cause is a 
corroded connector behind the engine, as the sensor is on the 
transmission housing.  The sensor at the front is only for setting 
injection timing.


Failed rack actuator (won't cause no tach)

Bad wiring

Bad idle speed computor

Cracked solder at the rack actuator

Bad rack position sensor

The FSM as a twenty page diagnostics procedure I've not started yet 
due to the crappy weather.


Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Seat Belt Mechanism W124 '91 300D 2.5T

2013-12-30 Thread clay
I have a pair of belts for swap in on the R107.  I am going to get them rebuilt 
and installed.  I would then rehabilitate the originals.  I am thinking 
Seatbelt Doctor or Snake Oyl.

clay


On Dec 30, 2013, at 4:46 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:

 This has been discussed in the W140 conference over at Benzworld a bit.
 
 Seems that the return spring just gets tired from age and use.
 
 That being said, some people claim that by carefully spraying something like 
 WD40 on the sides of the retractor and operating it briskly will get it to 
 work again.
 
 Haven't tried this one myself, but it's worth a try.
 
 The alternative is replacement of the whole seat belt.
 
 Dan
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Dec 30, 2013, at 7:36 AM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Hi Gang,
   The seat belt retractor is no longer operating smoothly  it sometimes 
 fails to retract and can be difficult to extend.   The WSM lists some info 
 about the retractor but it only has the  microfische location and not the 
 complete Job Package.  (91-502)
 
   Has anyone taken the seat belt mechanism from the B Post and repaired it?  
 I suspect it needs to be cleaned and lubricated more than anything.  Perhaps 
 the rewinder can be tightened a little?
 
   any ideas?
 
 -- 
 Sincerely,
 Larry
 
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Re: [MBZ] S600 eBay Deal

2013-12-30 Thread clay
Based on the M100 level of tech, the W140 is a technical disaster with massive 
economic impact to a future owner.  The S600 is twice as complex as the 
standard model, as it would be loaded with bells, whistles and subsystems that 
can not be hand crafted in the manner one could with a Grosser.  Door locks, 
closing assist, ACC, ESP, Air ride, magic windows, heated seats, moving rear 
seats, rear seat business tech upgrades, and the over engineered engine with 
biodegrading wire.  All in a shell that looks the same as any other W140 on the 
road, unless it is LWB.  Even then it looks much the same.  

I posit the w126 will be held in much higher esteem than a w140 as collectable 
in future.  The SEC and SEL were built much better, with higher quality 
systems.  Far fewer computers to go wonky, and still put together by well 
trained German employees.

clay


On Dec 30, 2013, at 6:35 AM, Dieselhead wrote:

 On Dec 29, 2013 6:54 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
 
 For comparison, there are 6 VW
 Phaetons on eBay right now, all are
 V8s, and only
 one has a current bid less than the
 buy it now on the S600.
 
 They're both money pits, but I'd rather have the Phaeton--it's rare enough
 to be a future classic.  Gotta have the W-12 if you're going to bother,
 though.
 
 Alex
 
 
 S600 is not common and will be collectible
 
 I could not find any location in the stupid fleabay ad so I asked the guy 
 where it is.  Santa Monica, Calif
  


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[MBZ] Marthamania

2013-12-30 Thread Dan Penoff
Spent the morning calling my parts list in to the dealer and running errands.  
No sign of either one of my youngsters when I returned, so no chance of 
removing he hard top so I can start on the headliner and also get into removing 
all 11 hydraulic cylinders to send out for rebuilding

Since the afternoon was now open, I figured I would tackle the finish on the 
car.

Had to wash it, since we drove it over to the in-laws yesterday, much of which 
was in heavy rain.  After drying it off in great detail, I went at it with the 
clay bar.  Hood wasn't bad, but the hard top was pretty dirty.  Got a lot of 
crud out of the finish.

Checked a couple of spots with some 3M polish and saw little or no difference, 
so I didn't bother.  The paint is in good shape and the car has seen little of 
the outdoors in the last six years, so most of the crud in the finish probably 
came out with the clay.

After this I once again went over it with a towel to get any possible remaining 
moisture, as wax doesn't like water, and then broke out the stuff

I have been using Collinite 845 Insulator Wax, which is a really nice wax that 
is tough and covers well. Since it's well, wax, it tends to solidify at room 
temperature, so it has to be heated before use.  This just involves putting the 
bottle in a container of warm water and letting it sit for 5-10 minutes.

After the wax was liquified I was ready to go to work.  The weather today was 
not conducive to waxing cars, as it's in the mid 60s and damp.  The wax doesn't 
totally haze due to both the temperature and humidity, meaning you really, 
really have to work it to get the excess off the finish.  As a result of this 
it takes a LOT of terrycloth hand towels - I went through nearly two dozen by 
the time I was done.  I could have used a polisher and pad to remove the wax, 
but I wanted to do it by hand the first time as that allows me to see just 
about every square inch of the finish.

So now that's out of the way, although I'll need to touch up a few places when 
the hard top is removed, as it covers some of the painted surfaces on the back 
deck.  

Hopefully I'll have one of the boys around tonight to help me lift the hard top 
off.  Can't do much else until that's done.

First tank of fuel yielded 18.9 MPG, and that's probably a little low.  I was 
sure that the gauge was reading low, so when I refueled I tried topping it off, 
which I normally don't do.  I found that the gauge was probably right, so the 
extra fuel I put in will skew the calculation.  A minor issue that won't occur 
again.

I also found that my IR remote does work on both doors and trunk - previously 
it only worked on the passenger door.  Seems that the receivers must be weak 
and get drowned out by ambient light during the day - at night last night all 
of them worked.  I found that if I cupped my hand around the remote to shade 
it right up against the receiver it would work.  Maybe the remote is weak?  
It's brand new from the dealer (PO bought it - ouch!!) and has brand new 
batteries in it...

I'm done for the day.  My *ss is dragging.  Hopefully I'll get the hard top off 
tonight so I can replace the headliner tomorrow.  That's going to be messy.

Dan/Martha
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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I'm not sure, don't really remember.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 30, 2013, at 2:18 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 I can't see any way of getting to the crank position sensor from above.
 
 Kaleb, when you pulled 124 300D engines, do you remember seeing a sensor on 
 top of the bell housing?
 
 There is no space at all behind the engine in a 124, and the hmp is within 
 and inch of the transmission pretty much all around.  I tried pulling fuses 
 while it was racing.  no fuse seemed to matter.
 
 
 PRIOR POST:
 
 When the car settles down, it idles around 600 -650 RPM.   When it is flakey 
 it goes from maybe 400 rpm, just barely running, to 1000 or 1200 rpm with 
 some instances of 600.  THe electrics seem to settle down when the engine 
 warms up.  THis is a rust free southern car too. 124 300D  OM603
 
 
 Thanks!
 
 I pulled the OVP relay from the SDL, popped out the 124 OVP and put in the 
 SDL OVP.  Started up the 300D, no joy!  Rats!  I was hoping that might be a 
 simple fix, if not cheap.
 
 Battery terminals are snug.  I did not take them off, clean and replace.  
 Working on the 107 brakes first.
 
 Is this Crank position sensor on the trans accessible on a 124/OM603 without 
 taking out the trans?  I don't remember ever seeing anything like that on a 
 diesel.  Why would that cause the lights inside the car to flash off and on?  
 I could see idle speed and tach funkiness being caused there.
 
 Working on it.  The idle control system has failed, and there are several 
 causes.
 
 OVP
 
 crank position sensor (obviously, if it's bad or has intermittent 
 connection, no tach, no idle speed control).  Usual cause is a corroded 
 connector behind the engine, as the sensor is on the transmission housing.  
 The sensor at the front is only for setting injection timing.
 
 Failed rack actuator (won't cause no tach)
 
 Bad wiring
 
 Bad idle speed computor
 
 Cracked solder at the rack actuator
 
 Bad rack position sensor
 
 The FSM as a twenty page diagnostics procedure I've not started yet due to 
 the crappy weather.
 
 Peter
 
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Re: [MBZ] Seat Belt Mechanism W124 '91 300D 2.5T

2013-12-30 Thread OK Don
I did what Dan suggested on my 124's, 123, 201 -- remove the B pillor
cover, spray with brake cleaner to clean, followed by a good spray lube.
That fixed every one of them.


On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 7:45 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 On the W124 I would remove the B pillar covering which would give you
 immediate access to the retractor.  You do that by pulling up the threshold
 panels in both door openings, pulling the door opening welting (that fuzzy
 strip that surrounds the door opening) off, taking the two screws out of
 the trim piece at the bottom and pulling it down to disengage it from the
 panel, and lifting up on the panel.  It has a hook at the top that anchors
 the top of it to the B pillar.

 No need to remove the belt, just lay the panel out of the way and you'll
 see the belt retractor underneath.




-- 
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] S600 eBay Deal

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead
Based on the M100 level of tech, the W140 is a technical disaster 
with massive economic impact to a future owner.  The S600 is twice 
as complex as the standard model, as it would be loaded with bells, 
whistles and subsystems that can not be hand crafted in the manner 
one could with a Grosser.  Door locks, closing assist, ACC, ESP, Air 
ride, magic windows, heated seats, moving rear seats, rear seat 
business tech upgrades, and the over engineered engine with 
biodegrading wire.  All in a shell that looks the same as any other 
W140 on the road, unless it is LWB.  Even then it looks much the 
same. 

I posit the w126 will be held in much higher esteem than a w140 as 
collectable in future.  The SEC and SEL were built much better, with 
higher quality systems.  Far fewer computers to go wonky, and still 
put together by well trained German employees.


clay


Singin to the choir my friend.  126 and the 600 Grosser represent the 
postwar epitome of MB engineering of their eras.


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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread OK Don
IIRC, (not likely at this point) it's near the 4:00 to 5:00 position when
looking from the front of the engine towards the rear - on the engine side
of the bell housing mounting plate.


On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 5:04 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:

 I'm not sure, don't really remember.

 Sent from my iPhone

  On Dec 30, 2013, at 2:18 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I can't see any way of getting to the crank position sensor from above.
 
  Kaleb, when you pulled 124 300D engines, do you remember seeing a sensor
 on top of the bell housing?
 
  There is no space at all behind the engine in a 124, and the hmp is
 within and inch of the transmission pretty much all around.  I tried
 pulling fuses while it was racing.  no fuse seemed to matter.
 
 
  PRIOR POST:
 
  When the car settles down, it idles around 600 -650 RPM.   When it is
 flakey it goes from maybe 400 rpm, just barely running, to 1000 or 1200 rpm
 with some instances of 600.  THe electrics seem to settle down when the
 engine warms up.  THis is a rust free southern car too. 124 300D  OM603
 
 
  Thanks!
 
  I pulled the OVP relay from the SDL, popped out the 124 OVP and put in
 the SDL OVP.  Started up the 300D, no joy!  Rats!  I was hoping that might
 be a simple fix, if not cheap.
 
  Battery terminals are snug.  I did not take them off, clean and replace.
  Working on the 107 brakes first.
 
  Is this Crank position sensor on the trans accessible on a 124/OM603
 without taking out the trans?  I don't remember ever seeing anything like
 that on a diesel.  Why would that cause the lights inside the car to flash
 off and on?  I could see idle speed and tach funkiness being caused there.
 
  Working on it.  The idle control system has failed, and there are
 several causes.
 
  OVP
 
  crank position sensor (obviously, if it's bad or has intermittent
 connection, no tach, no idle speed control).  Usual cause is a corroded
 connector behind the engine, as the sensor is on the transmission housing.
  The sensor at the front is only for setting injection timing.
 
  Failed rack actuator (won't cause no tach)
 
  Bad wiring
 
  Bad idle speed computor
 
  Cracked solder at the rack actuator
 
  Bad rack position sensor
 
  The FSM as a twenty page diagnostics procedure I've not started yet due
 to the crappy weather.
 
  Peter
 
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-- 
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] S600 eBay Deal

2013-12-30 Thread Dan Penoff
I would consider the W126 chassis car the pinnacle of MB engineering.  I loved 
my 300SD.

Dan

On Dec 30, 2013, at 6:18 PM, Dieselhead wrote:

 Based on the M100 level of tech, the W140 is a technical disaster with 
 massive economic impact to a future owner.  The S600 is twice as complex as 
 the standard model, as it would be loaded with bells, whistles and 
 subsystems that can not be hand crafted in the manner one could with a 
 Grosser.  Door locks, closing assist, ACC, ESP, Air ride, magic windows, 
 heated seats, moving rear seats, rear seat business tech upgrades, and the 
 over engineered engine with biodegrading wire.  All in a shell that looks 
 the same as any other W140 on the road, unless it is LWB.  Even then it 
 looks much the same. 
 I posit the w126 will be held in much higher esteem than a w140 as 
 collectable in future.  The SEC and SEL were built much better, with higher 
 quality systems.  Far fewer computers to go wonky, and still put together by 
 well trained German employees.
 
 clay
 
 Singin to the choir my friend.  126 and the 600 Grosser represent the postwar 
 epitome of MB engineering of their eras.
 
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Re: [MBZ] Seat Belt Mechanism W124 '91 300D 2.5T

2013-12-30 Thread Craig
On Mon, 30 Dec 2013 17:13:46 -0600 OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:

 I did what Dan suggested on my 124's, 123, 201 -- remove the B pillor
 cover, spray with brake cleaner to clean, followed by a good spray lube.
 That fixed every one of them.

And, just a reminder, WD-40 is not a good spray lube.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead

K'leb sez:


I'm not sure, don't really remember.

Sent from my iPhone


You know, you are not much help!  But thanks anyway!

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Re: [MBZ] Seating Beads on New Tires

2013-12-30 Thread Scott Ritchey


All, Thanks for the advice and tips.  I tried most of the things mentioned
(except ether, which I didn't have) without success.  I ended up going to a
tire shop today to get the beads seated.  Two tire shops (that didn't have
air cannons) tried without success.  The third shop had the air blaster and
did the job on just a few minutes for $5 a tire.  But they were busy so I
had to wait about an hour form them to get to my job.

In retrospect, it might have worked to pry the beads apart for a couple hot,
sunny days.  I did pry them apart for one day but it's winter here and the
sidewalls popped right back as soon as I worked the bead back over the rim.

I never had a problem with a car tire but these little mower tires were
different: wide tires, wide rims, stiff (4 ply), and the beads were almost
touching when they arrived strapped together with only a couple UPS stickers
on the outside.

So thanks to Dan and the others that said to go to a tire shop.  By the way,
this is what the tires looked like.  You can see that the tread was already
depressed in the middle so strapping it around the tread did almost no good.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/2-20X8-8-DURO-20x8-00-8-4-PLY-NEW-LAWN-MOWER-TURF-TW
O-TIRES-20x8x8-TIRE-PAIR/00/s/NDE1WDU0OQ==/z/iCsAAOxyKsZRufgA/$(KGrHqN,!rEFG
i2Q!M8WBRufg!kZ8g~~60_35.JPG


Scott

  Scott wrote:
 
  I'm going nuts trying to seat the beads on a new set of tires on
  my lawn tractor.

   I tried a cargo strap around the tread but that doesn't even get it
 close.
 
  Any thoughts?  Thanks.

 Warm the tire as much as you can - but don't let _her_ find your
 tires in the oven.

 Soap up the bead and seat good.

 Press fit the bead to one side.

 Use a _big_ cargo strap, or better a chain to apply squeeze
 forces.  With the chain, use a pipe  to twist the chain tight.  It
 will take a lot of force to squeeze the tire bead out to the other
 seat.

 The tire mounting rigs use a blast of air to pop the tire open.
 You could make yourself one with an air tank and a 1-2 inch (2.5 -
 5 cm) pipe and valve.

 Finally, there's the extreme method.  Spray a couple second burst of
 starter fluid in the tire (best to get it inside the tire, not just
 on the rim. Also get it all around, not just in one spot), spray a
 fuse trail, light it, and at the moment the tire goes fooomph!
 apply as high a volume of air as you can through the valves stem.
 Best to have the core out to get higher flow.

 I'm not _advising_ this method, but I have used it successfully.

 --Philip, who doesn't have any tire pieces permanently embedded - yet

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Re: [MBZ] Seating Beads on New Tires

2013-12-30 Thread Scott Ritchey

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281207789352?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT_trksid=p3984.
m1497.l2649


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Ritchey
Sent: Monday, December 30, 2013 6:49 PM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seating Beads on New Tires



All, Thanks for the advice and tips.  I tried most of the things mentioned
(except ether, which I didn't have) without success.  I ended up going to a
tire shop today to get the beads seated.  Two tire shops (that didn't have
air cannons) tried without success.  The third shop had the air blaster and
did the job on just a few minutes for $5 a tire.  But they were busy so I
had to wait about an hour form them to get to my job.

In retrospect, it might have worked to pry the beads apart for a couple hot,
sunny days.  I did pry them apart for one day but it's winter here and the
sidewalls popped right back as soon as I worked the bead back over the rim.

I never had a problem with a car tire but these little mower tires were
different: wide tires, wide rims, stiff (4 ply), and the beads were almost
touching when they arrived strapped together with only a couple UPS stickers
on the outside.

So thanks to Dan and the others that said to go to a tire shop.  By the way,
this is what the tires looked like.  You can see that the tread was already
depressed in the middle so strapping it around the tread did almost no good.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/2-20X8-8-DURO-20x8-00-8-4-PLY-NEW-LAWN-MOWER-TURF-TW
O-TIRES-20x8x8-TIRE-PAIR/00/s/NDE1WDU0OQ==/z/iCsAAOxyKsZRufgA/$(KGrHqN,!rEFG
i2Q!M8WBRufg!kZ8g~~60_35.JPG


Scott

  Scott wrote:
 
  I'm going nuts trying to seat the beads on a new set of tires on
  my lawn tractor.

   I tried a cargo strap around the tread but that doesn't even get it
 close.
 
  Any thoughts?  Thanks.

 Warm the tire as much as you can - but don't let _her_ find your
 tires in the oven.

 Soap up the bead and seat good.

 Press fit the bead to one side.

 Use a _big_ cargo strap, or better a chain to apply squeeze
 forces.  With the chain, use a pipe  to twist the chain tight.  It
 will take a lot of force to squeeze the tire bead out to the other
 seat.

 The tire mounting rigs use a blast of air to pop the tire open.
 You could make yourself one with an air tank and a 1-2 inch (2.5 -
 5 cm) pipe and valve.

 Finally, there's the extreme method.  Spray a couple second burst of
 starter fluid in the tire (best to get it inside the tire, not just
 on the rim. Also get it all around, not just in one spot), spray a
 fuse trail, light it, and at the moment the tire goes fooomph!
 apply as high a volume of air as you can through the valves stem.
 Best to have the core out to get higher flow.

 I'm not _advising_ this method, but I have used it successfully.

 --Philip, who doesn't have any tire pieces permanently embedded - yet

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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead
I pulled the EDS plug from the IP this evening.  No change in 
behavior. I pulled fuses one by one, with no change in behavior. 
Does not seem to be electric, except the tach and flashing lights 
indicate something electric.


I cleaned the battery terminals, no change in behavior.

I then thought about a load like a compressor loading and unloading 
the engine.  Alt?


I checked voltage with the engine running.  got a climbing voltage up 
to 17.5, then later 18
 and still later near 18v.  I am not sure about the accuracy or a $3 
multimeter.


I am headed out to FLAPS to have then check voltage.

Here is the big Q  What exactly is the function of the OVP relay 
in over voltage conditions?  Could this be indications of the OVP 
relay doing its job?  Changing the OVP relay didn't change anything.


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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Curt Raymond
They were really long lived cars too. I dated a girl who had one as a 
hand-me-down from her mom with around 300,000 miles on it when I stopped seeing 
her.

Friends of my parent's had a Nova, it lasted forever too. It got hit and she 
hated it so she drove it around not using 4th or 5th gear (with the engine just 
roaring) for a month before the engine finally quit.

At a time when most American cars would maybe make 100,000 miles the Toyotas 
lasted double or triple that. Its those cars that made Toyota's name in 
reliability and just ruined the big 3.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 12:43:19 -0500
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is interesting upe1ujyz
Message-ID: 52c1b0b7.80...@voyager.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 On Dec 29, 2013 4:29 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
  I never could see any need for a
 geo or a saturn.
 
 What are you talking about?  Nobody mentioned Saturn.  The point was the
 hypocrisy of people in the '90s who said Buy American and then went to
 their Chevy dealer to buy a Geo (all of which were captive imports).

A lot of the Novas and Prisms, maybe all of them, were made in California, in a
plant half owned by GM (Nummi).

Mitch.
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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Curt Raymond
Geo allowed people who would never buy an asian car to get an asian car without 
having to have a Toyota or Suzuki.

My dad had a Chevy Tracker which was a re-badged Geo Tracker which was a 
re-badged Suzuki Grand Vitara. It was an EXCELLENT little truck, very good 
offroad and easy on gas. The Jeep Liberty that replaced it is NOT as good in 
any measurable way other than maybe its a little faster off the line.

Until they screwed it up Saturn was a brilliant move, weird little cars that 
people loved in a no-pressure buying atmosphere. Saturn people loved Saturn, 
then they just made it like everything else at GM, same way they screwed up 
Saab.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 11:51:35 -0600
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is interesting
Message-ID: a062408f0cee76278f2a0@[192.168.1.52]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed


  
  What are you talking about?  Nobody mentioned Saturn.  The point was the
  hypocrisy of people in the '90s who said Buy American and then went to
  their Chevy dealer to buy a Geo (all of which were captive imports).

   Alex

my thought has nothing to do with origin.  I just never saw any need 
for the geo brand or the saturn brand.  I think the industry 
consolidation lends credence to that view.
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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Peter Frederick
I suspect having things drop out is the job of the OVP -- keeps the  
electronics from frying.  I don't think that is the issue for me,  
though, headlights are normal brightness.  Worth a check.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Seating Beads on New Tires

2013-12-30 Thread Curt Raymond
When I used to help out at the shop down the street we'd have a helluva time 
with ATV tires. They run very low pressure so the sidewalls are very strong and 
stiff. Many times used the ether (or spray lube or even propane) trick. I've 
seen a tire poof out almost twice its original diameter...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 18:49:18 -0500
From: Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seating Beads on New Tires
Message-ID: 6BA5A8F079EB4E6994B7856BC335BA72@ScottHPPC
Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=us-ascii



All, Thanks for the advice and tips.  I tried most of the things mentioned
(except ether, which I didn't have) without success.  I ended up going to a
tire shop today to get the beads seated.  Two tire shops (that didn't have
air cannons) tried without success.  The third shop had the air blaster and
did the job on just a few minutes for $5 a tire.  But they were busy so I
had to wait about an hour form them to get to my job.

In retrospect, it might have worked to pry the beads apart for a couple hot,
sunny days.  I did pry them apart for one day but it's winter here and the
sidewalls popped right back as soon as I worked the bead back over the rim.

I never had a problem with a car tire but these little mower tires were
different: wide tires, wide rims, stiff (4 ply), and the beads were almost
touching when they arrived strapped together with only a couple UPS stickers
on the outside.

So thanks to Dan and the others that said to go to a tire shop.  By the way,
this is what the tires looked like.  You can see that the tread was already
depressed in the middle so strapping it around the tread did almost no good.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/2-20X8-8-DURO-20x8-00-8-4-PLY-NEW-LAWN-MOWER-TURF-TW
O-TIRES-20x8x8-TIRE-PAIR/00/s/NDE1WDU0OQ==/z/iCsAAOxyKsZRufgA/$(KGrHqN,!rEFG
i2Q!M8WBRufg!kZ8g~~60_35.JPG


Scott
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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
I will see what I can see on an engine I got in the garage.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Dec 30, 2013, at 5:22 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 K'leb sez:
 
 I'm not sure, don't really remember.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 You know, you are not much help!  But thanks anyway!
 
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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Mitch Haley

Dieselhead wrote:

I checked voltage with the engine running.  got a climbing voltage up to 
17.5, then later 18
 and still later near 18v.  I am not sure about the accuracy or a $3 
multimeter.


Does your meter read 12.4 to 12.8 on a car that's been sitting a while with a 
fully charged good battery? Does it read 13.4-14 on a running MBZ with a good 
regulator?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] S600 eBay Deal upe1ujyz

2013-12-30 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 4:51 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 What's so special about a VW Phaeton?



You're kidding, right?  Every car guy has to know about the Phaeton.  It's
VWAG's W140 combined with the original BMW 750iL, only more so.  Massively
overengineered, poorly marketed in the US, a sales flop, and incredibly
cheap on the used market but a total money pit unless you can DIY and buy
parts at wholesale.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead
Geo allowed people who would never buy an asian car to get an asian 
car without having to have a Toyota or Suzuki.


My dad had a Chevy Tracker which was a re-badged Geo Tracker which 
was a re-badged Suzuki Grand Vitara. It was an EXCELLENT little 
truck, very good offroad and easy on gas. The Jeep Liberty that 
replaced it is NOT as good in any measurable way other than maybe 
its a little faster off the line.


Until they screwed it up Saturn was a brilliant move, weird little 
cars that people loved in a no-pressure buying atmosphere. Saturn 
people loved Saturn, then they just made it like everything else at 
GM, same way they screwed up Saab.


-Curt


But, but, big corporations are run by brilliant people!  Many even have MBAs!




/sarcasm

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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead
So, is it possibly accessible from underneath?   Did you have problem 
with it?  Did you do an engine swap on a OM603?  I know you did the 
107.




IIRC, (not likely at this point) it's near the 4:00 to 5:00 position when
looking from the front of the engine towards the rear - on the engine side
of the bell housing mounting plate.


On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 5:04 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:


 I'm not sure, don't really remember.

 Sent from my iPhone

  On Dec 30, 2013, at 2:18 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
 
  I can't see any way of getting to the crank position sensor from above.
 
  Kaleb, when you pulled 124 300D engines, do you remember seeing a sensor
 on top of the bell housing?
 
  There is no space at all behind the engine in a 124, and the hmp is
 within and inch of the transmission pretty much all around.  I tried
 pulling fuses while it was racing.  no fuse seemed to matter.
 
 
  PRIOR POST:
 
  When the car settles down, it idles around 600 -650 RPM.   When it is
 flakey it goes from maybe 400 rpm, just barely running, to 1000 or 1200 rpm
 with some instances of 600.  THe electrics seem to settle down when the
 engine warms up.  THis is a rust free southern car too. 124 300D  OM603
 
 
  Thanks!
 
  I pulled the OVP relay from the SDL, popped out the 124 OVP and put in
 the SDL OVP.  Started up the 300D, no joy!  Rats!  I was hoping that might
 be a simple fix, if not cheap.
 
  Battery terminals are snug.  I did not take them off, clean and replace.
  Working on the 107 brakes first.
 
  Is this Crank position sensor on the trans accessible on a 124/OM603
 without taking out the trans?  I don't remember ever seeing anything like
 that on a diesel.  Why would that cause the lights inside the car to flash
 off and on?  I could see idle speed and tach funkiness being caused there.
 
  Working on it.  The idle control system has failed, and there are
 several causes.
 
  OVP
 
  crank position sensor (obviously, if it's bad or has intermittent
 connection, no tach, no idle speed control).  Usual cause is a corroded
 connector behind the engine, as the sensor is on the transmission housing.
  The sensor at the front is only for setting injection timing.
 
  Failed rack actuator (won't cause no tach)
 
  Bad wiring
 
  Bad idle speed computor
 
  Cracked solder at the rack actuator
 
  Bad rack position sensor
 
  The FSM as a twenty page diagnostics procedure I've not started yet due
 to the crappy weather.
 
  Peter
 
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They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead
I suspect having things drop out is the job of the OVP -- keeps the 
electronics from frying.  I don't think that is the issue for me, 
though, headlights are normal brightness.  Worth a check.


Peter




My $3 multimeter read 18.5 volts with the car running.  Seemed like a 
bad regulator.
I thought maybe I was onto something.  Took the car to oreally to get 
the alt checked.  THey said the battery was bad and could not check 
the alt with a bad battery.  Si I came back, took the new battery out 
of the SDL, put it in, put the questionable battery in the trunk and 
went back.  Got them to test again.  They said the new battery and 
the alternator were fine.  THey tested the other battery out of the 
car, and said it was bad.  No trouble with the battery.


I did check battery voltage with the $3 multimeter and it read 15.5 
across the battery terminals, so I knew it was reading 3v high. 
Actually, I think it came out of one of the excess A+ computer 
certification training kits I ended up with.  It probably cost more 
than $3.  The kits cost me somewhere between $100 and $200 each.


When I started the car with the new battery, it idled perfectly, so I 
thought maybe it was something like the wacko electric fuel pump in 
the SL a few years ago, where after I replaced everything else, but 
the fuel pump still didn't run right until I replaced the battery. 
No such luck!  When I got back to oreally, it was idling high and low 
again.


I don't have jumper cables here, So I haven't been able to check 
grounding.  I may try grounding with a #12 wire tomorrow if I have 
time.



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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead

Dieselhead wrote:

I checked voltage with the engine running.  got a climbing voltage 
up to 17.5, then later 18
 and still later near 18v.  I am not sure about the accuracy or a 
$3 multimeter.


Does your meter read 12.4 to 12.8 on a car that's been sitting a 
while with a fully charged good battery? Does it read 13.4-14 on a 
running MBZ with a good regulator?


Mitch.


Nope, I did get around to checking that later.  15.5 on post to post, 
unhooked battery.  THe meter was wonko, not the regulator.  A check 
at flaps confirmed the regulator was ok.


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Re: [MBZ] S600 eBay Deal upe1ujyz

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead

On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 4:51 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:


 What's so special about a VW Phaeton?




You're kidding, right?  Every car guy has to know about the Phaeton.  It's
VWAG's W140 combined with the original BMW 750iL, only more so.  Massively
overengineered, poorly marketed in the US, a sales flop, and incredibly
cheap on the used market but a total money pit unless you can DIY and buy
parts at wholesale.

Alex
___
 What the? is VW thinking, trying to make a fattylac?  GM screwed 
them up plenty already.  No wonder Vdubs are a POS anymore.   They 
are supposed to be simple, folks cars, easy to work on, cheap to buy, 
cheap to own, cheap to operate, cheap to fix.   That is part of why 
bugs were so popular.


The other part was because they dared to be different, had great 
advertising by DDB, emphasizing the differences, and they were so 
homely they were cute.   It was the only thing to do after the mule 
died  Think small  I have a bunch of those ads I saved from my 
desk surroundings in college, along with toaster tank BMW ads and the 
MB 108 ad that was also brilliant.  some people think buying a house 
is the most important investment they will ever make


A VW fattylac deserves to be a resounding flop.

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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead

I will see what I can see on an engine I got in the garage.

Sent from my iPhone


OK Don says it is about 4 or 5 o'clock position looking at the front 
of the engine.  Lower left.  That might be visible from underneath.

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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Fmiser
 Dieselhead wrote:
 
 I checked voltage with the engine running.  got a climbing
 voltage up to 17.5, then later 18
   and still later near 18v.  I am not sure about the accuracy or
 a $3 multimeter.

Ouch!  If that's accurate, you have troubles.  Well designed
automotive electronics should survive 20 V - but how close to 20 V
is it?

You could use a known precise voltage between 10 and 20 V to check
the meter.  A computer power supply, a regulated wall wart, a lead
acid battery known to be good that's been at rest for a few hours...

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] S600 eBay Deal upe1ujyz

2013-12-30 Thread Dan Penoff
I remember when they came out, but I have no interest in them so I never paid 
any attention.

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 30, 2013, at 10:36 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 4:51 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
 What's so special about a VW Phaeton?
 You're kidding, right?  Every car guy has to know about the Phaeton.  It's
 VWAG's W140 combined with the original BMW 750iL, only more so.  Massively
 overengineered, poorly marketed in the US, a sales flop, and incredibly
 cheap on the used market but a total money pit unless you can DIY and buy
 parts at wholesale.
 
 Alex
 ___
 What the? is VW thinking, trying to make a fattylac?  GM screwed them up 
 plenty already.  No wonder Vdubs are a POS anymore.   They are supposed to be 
 simple, folks cars, easy to work on, cheap to buy, cheap to own, cheap to 
 operate, cheap to fix.   That is part of why bugs were so popular.
 
 The other part was because they dared to be different, had great advertising 
 by DDB, emphasizing the differences, and they were so homely they were cute.  
  It was the only thing to do after the mule died  Think small  I have a 
 bunch of those ads I saved from my desk surroundings in college, along with 
 toaster tank BMW ads and the MB 108 ad that was also brilliant.  some people 
 think buying a house is the most important investment they will ever make
 
 A VW fattylac deserves to be a resounding flop.
 
 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Rick Knoble
On Dec 30, 2013, at 9:13 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 Until they screwed it up Saturn was a brilliant move, weird little cars that 
 people loved in a no-pressure buying atmosphere. Saturn people loved Saturn, 
 then they just made it like everything else at GM, same way they screwed up 
 Saab.
 
 -Curt
 
 But, but, big corporations are run by brilliant people!  Many even have MBAs!
 
 
 
 
 /sarcasm


IMHO, a business doesn't really start a downhill slide until the accountants 
take over. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] S600 eBay Deal upe1ujyz

2013-12-30 Thread Mitch Haley

Dan Penoff wrote:

I remember when they came out, but I have no interest in them so I never paid 
any attention.


Well, maybe if they had a TDI version in this country, or if somebody wanted to 
give me a Phaeton with an unhappy engine and a Toerag TDI that some fool rolled 
at freeway speeds in the snow...


Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead

  Dieselhead wrote:


 I checked voltage with the engine running.  got a climbing
 voltage up to 17.5, then later 18
   and still later near 18v.  I am not sure about the accuracy or
 a $3 multimeter.


Ouch!  If that's accurate, you have troubles.  Well designed
automotive electronics should survive 20 V - but how close to 20 V
is it?

You could use a known precise voltage between 10 and 20 V to check
the meter.  A computer power supply, a regulated wall wart, a lead
acid battery known to be good that's been at rest for a few hours...

--  Philip


Its a wonko meter.  I forgot to pack my good one.

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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead




IMHO, a business doesn't really start a downhill slide until the 
accountants take over.


Rick
Sent from my iPhone


A brilliant, and accurate observation.

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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread OK Don
I dropped a 603 sump on a jack - got to RR the oil pan. Spent some quality
time under that car . . .
No problem with the sensor, just cataloging every thing I saw, checking all
the wires after I finished, etc. Yes, accessible from underneath.
Now that you mention it, the OM60x engines are among the few that I never
had to RR. They just kept on running.


On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 9:02 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 So, is it possibly accessible from underneath?   Did you have problem with
 it?  Did you do an engine swap on a OM603?  I know you did the 107.






-- 
OK Don
They who can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary
safety, deserve neither liberty nor safety. - Benjamin Franklin 1775
in this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.
- Benjamin Franklin 1789
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Dieselhead

I dropped a 603 sump on a jack - got to RR the oil pan. Spent some quality
time under that car . . .
No problem with the sensor, just cataloging every thing I saw, checking all
the wires after I finished, etc. Yes, accessible from underneath.
Now that you mention it, the OM60x engines are among the few that I never
had to RR. They just kept on running.



Oh, yeah, I remember that fiasco now.

Most work I have done on one is the head on one SDL.  They are very 
long lived and reliable.


I love the engine in this 300D.  It is the least worked on of any I 
have had.   Most neglected engine.  I can tell because it still has 
all the factory bolts and attachments for the wiring harness and 
other stuff.


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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Alex Chamberlain
On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 9:08 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:




 IMHO, a business doesn't really start a downhill slide until the
 accountants take over.



 A brilliant, and accurate observation.


Rather an incoherent comment, Loren, considering that you just said that
you thought GM's brand consolidation following its bankruptcy proved that
Geo and Saturn were superfluous brands.
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Re: [MBZ] Prince of darkness

2013-12-30 Thread Rick Knoble
On Dec 30, 2013, at 11:40 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 
 I love the engine in this 300D.  It is the least worked on of any I have had. 
   Most neglected engine.  I can tell because it still has all the factory 
 bolts and attachments for the wiring harness and other stuff.


It is probably the least worked on BECAUSE it is the most neglected. :)

I have had to properly repair many a mechanics there, I fixed it kludge 
repairs in my day...

Rick
Who has done a few kludge repairs hisself. 

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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Rick Knoble

 Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 22:20:02 -0800
 From: apchamberl...@gmail.com
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

 On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 9:08 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:




 IMHO, a business doesn't really start a downhill slide until the
 accountants take over.



 A brilliant, and accurate observation.


 Rather an incoherent comment, Loren, considering that you just said that
 you thought GM's brand consolidation following its bankruptcy proved that
 Geo and Saturn were superfluous brands.


You missed the /sarcasm at the end of his post. 

The Toyota/GM and Suzuki/GM alliances were good for GM and produced good little 
transportation
appliances. They also helped GM meet CAFE standards whilst selling millions of 
gas guzzling pickups.

Saturn as an autonomous entity was a good concept, until the management at GM 
pulled them back into the 
corporate fold. That pretty well killed the car line.

No auto maker is immune to poor management decisions. 

Rick  
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Re: [MBZ] This is interesting

2013-12-30 Thread Gary Hurst
those old full sized body on frame cars would also get a lot of miles on
them.  i'd be willing to bet on a late 70s delta 88 or lesabre to make it
to 300k miles


On Mon, Dec 30, 2013 at 7:39 PM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 They were really long lived cars too. I dated a girl who had one as a
 hand-me-down from her mom with around 300,000 miles on it when I stopped
 seeing her.

 Friends of my parent's had a Nova, it lasted forever too. It got hit and
 she hated it so she drove it around not using 4th or 5th gear (with the
 engine just roaring) for a month before the engine finally quit.

 At a time when most American cars would maybe make 100,000 miles the
 Toyotas lasted double or triple that. Its those cars that made Toyota's
 name in reliability and just ruined the big 3.

 -Curt

 Date: Mon, 30 Dec 2013 12:43:19 -0500
 From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is interesting upe1ujyz
 Message-ID: 52c1b0b7.80...@voyager.net
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 Alex Chamberlain wrote:
  On Dec 29, 2013 4:29 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
   I never could see any need for a
  geo or a saturn.
 
  What are you talking about?  Nobody mentioned Saturn.  The point was the
  hypocrisy of people in the '90s who said Buy American and then went to
  their Chevy dealer to buy a Geo (all of which were captive imports).

 A lot of the Novas and Prisms, maybe all of them, were made in California,
 in a
 plant half owned by GM (Nummi).

 Mitch.
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