Spent some time thinking about this. The heater in question is about 6 feet
long, it goes under the evaporator, the whole width of the fridge. Would you
still expect it to have very low resistance? When I measured it it'd have been
around room temp, I'd completely defrosted the fridge with warm
Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
To correct what appears to be a mis-communication below, the fridge never
defrosts, it freezes right up tight. Takes 3-4 weeks.
The usual failure is the mechanical clock in the defrost timer, those have a
10-20 year lifespan. Do newer ones have a solid state
someone should pick it up and save it! I wonder if a 5 cyl or V6 Turbo
diesel would have enough power to make it practical? Then again, a
modern Turbo diesel probably puts out as many HP as that 6 cyl 2.8L Gas
engine, right?
Love those W108s -
Larry
On 8/4/2014 2:57 PM, Kaleb C.
While the African kleptocrats are in DC this week they can pop over to
the local Benz dealer and put one on order. Or maybe each leader gets
one as a door prize.
http://jalopnik.com/this-stealthy-mercedes-is-actually-a-bomb-resistant-arm-1616236097
--R
See the comment posted on this post:
http://hackaday.com/2014/08/03/the-fridge-hacking-guide-by-brewpi/
Karl [k-ww] says:
August 4, 2014 at 5:06 am
http://hackaday.com/2014/08/03/the-fridge-hacking-guide-by-brewpi/comment-page-1/#comment-1687025
A general note for anyone who goes dumpster
Spent some time thinking about this. The heater in question is about 6
feet long, it goes under the evaporator, the whole width of the
fridge. Would you still expect it to have very low resistance?
A 120W heater would measure 1 ohm, at operating temperature.
Cold, probably a fair bit less than
Hmmm - that laptop sounds handy. Is it different from an OBD-II reader? How
does it connect? I might be needing one of those in the future
On Mon, Aug 4, 2014 at 8:50 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
How about hooking it up to the laptop?
VCDS (the VW checking
The front coils need to be cleaned?
On Mon, Aug 4, 2014 at 9:59 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
Wife's Mazda 6 AC gets warm while sitting at a stop. Put the manifold
gauge set on it tonight. Specs say the low side should be between
This is a possibility I have to look into tonight. The front of this thing is
almost impenetrable.
Dan
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 5, 2014, at 10:25 AM, OK Don via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
The front coils need to be cleaned?
On Mon, Aug 4, 2014 at 9:59 PM, Mitch Haley via
The connection is the same as an OBD-II reader and it can perform all the
OBD-II functions plus a bunch more things.
Your Passat requires the more expensive cable but it can do a lot more than my
car can handle. For instance if you had different size tires it can correct the
speedo. Theres a
Simple. Disconnect the original cutoff wire on the injection pump
and put in a separate switch from power to the shut off solenoid.
That way if the switch is on it stays running. Side benefit is
that it's harder to steal since it won't start without the switch on.
Manfred
Date: Mon, 4 Aug
But if the solenoid fails...
I'm going to spend some time looking at how the one on the Jetta works and see
if I could make a manual replacement, it'd be good to have if trouble came
again.
-Curt
From: MG via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
To:
Fmiser wrote:
On my 123s, I have a few times disconnected the vacuum line so
the engine won't shut off.
I'm trying to figure out a way to accomplish that with my 6.2L
Detroit...
MG wrote:
Simple. Disconnect the original cutoff wire on the injection pump
and put in a separate
I parked the SL in the driveway and when I moved it, I noticed a long wet
slick. The fluid is clear and a bit slick. I thought it may be ATF and went
looking for a leak in the cooler lines. I found where the drip seemed to be,
right where the trans cooler line mounted to the block. I wiped
So what exactly is leaking? Coolant? From the block?
Oil filter looks crusty? How does the oil look? How does the coolant look?
Can this be something related to your recent overheating episode?
Do you have the tools to pressurize the cooling system to see if it
holds pressure or alternatively,
Canon inkjet printer - multi ink tanks type
Has been sitting for a year or more
Likely to be dried up ink etc
Any way to ressurect it?
Or is it junk?
Randy
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Heres the criminal:
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz353/curtludwig/1998%20Jetta/3BA492D3-4A28-435F-91BC-6D4429EED320-2530-035F6EC5_zps6ae428de.jpg
Its the power wire for the shutoff solenoid. A guy on the TDI list pointed out
that a shutoff solenoid will look an awful lot like a
This question is brought on by Clay's issue with his car.
Does anyone know if the radiator neck on the older MB's (think 115) is
anything special?
I have a pump up rad tester with a couple of adapters but have no idea
if any of them might fit the old 300D.
The radiator cap looks to be about
I had a nice one I just junked as the ink dried up every time I left it
sit for any length of time. And the ink carts became difficult to find,
and expensive. It did nice photo prints so I was sorta bummed to put
it aside, but new ones are so cheap it is hardly worth the bother, and
Costco
It will click when power is applied. If not, and it's the Bosch
rotary pump, the armature has separated from the solenoid. I think
that is the problem with my Volvo -- ran poorly for a while then
refused to start, no fuel delivery.
Pull in and check that it pops open and stays open when
First I would attempt to print. I've been surprised before.
If it's clogged, those printers typically have a removable head. Get
some bulk ink and refillable cartridges (this will cost less than new
carts from the official source), remove the printhead, and apply some
diluted Windex or
It's a standard radiator cap. A pressurizer should fit well enough to
pump it up.
Peter
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Randy wrote:
Canon inkjet printer - multi ink tanks type
Has been sitting for a year or more
I'm pretty sure the Canon printer cartridges include the print
head. So new cartridges should solve all dried ink problems.
Presuming the mechanicals are still okay.
-- Philip
Radiator cap reminds me: Years ago, when my 80 240D was only 3 or 4 years
old, I took it to local stealer for some sort of minor service. I stopped
by coupla hours later and walked to the car in the garage where tech was
working on a car beside. Tech told me he was awaiting some small part
I had the same series printer. All the ink fed through channels into one
printhead. Like yours, if the printer sat for a while without being
used, the ink dried up and the only solution offered by Canon was to buy
another printhead holder for $50. I carefully took apart the ink
cartridge
As Randy suggested, pressurize the coolant system and verify where the leak
is - however, on first reading, it sure sounds like a cracked block. I
shouldn't be too hard to find another one though.
On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 4:10 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
So what
I love success stories like that!
On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 4:16 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
Heres the criminal:
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz353/curtludwig/1998%20Jetta/3BA492D3-4A28-435F-91BC-6D4429EED320-2530-035F6EC5_zps6ae428de.jpg
Its the
I noticed a long wet slick. The fluid is clear and a bit slick.
Taste? Coolant doesn't taste like oil.
-- Jim
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If it's clear it is either brake fluid or MB antifreeze.
On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 10:44 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
I noticed a long wet slick. The fluid is clear and a bit slick.
Taste? Coolant doesn't taste like oil.
-- Jim
The radiator cap looks to be about the same as one would have found on
a vintage Chevy etc but it probably is not.
Dunno about GM, but it's the same cap that fits the expansion
tank on later models.
-- Jim
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