Re: [MBZ] OT PPO V HDHP w/HSA

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 22:05:08 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
 wrote:

> I forgot to mention the PPO plan has an embedded deductible and the
> HDHP is non embedded.  I am not sure exactly how all that works or
> which one would be better.

See
https://www.lundyinsurance.com/2015/01/20/deductibles-embedded-vs-non-embedded/

and, if you would like, search for other discussions of embedded versus
non-embedded deductibles.

Their explanations would be easier to follow than mine ...


Craig


> On 8/26/2019 9:50 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
> > So what you have are:
> >
> >
> > PPO costs $825/month
> > PPO family plan has $500 individual, $1000 family deductible
> > Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000
> > Coinsurance is $15 for doctor visits and other items
> >  are 10% after deductible is met
> > Drug copay is $10/$25/$50, depending on the drug
> >
> >
> > HDHP #1 (High Deductible Health Plan) costs $420 per month
> > HDHP #1 has $2000 individual, $2700 family deductible
> > Out of pocket max is $4000/$8000
> > Cost for care is 20% for everything after deductible is met
> >  including prescriptions
> >
> >
> > HDHP #2 costs $165 a month
> > HDHP #2 has $3000 individual, $6000 family deductible
> > Out of pocket max is $6000/$12000
> > Cost for care is 20% for everything after deductible is met
> >  including prescriptions
> >
> >
> >
> >> My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in
> >> the max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around
> >> $243 less than the premium paid on under the PPO plan per month.
> >> Plus the $416 or so you put in would stay in the account and roll
> >> over year to year as opposed to paying it out in premiums. Problem
> >> is if you have something come up you would have to cover it out of
> >> pocket and hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time. Other
> >> problem is if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis.
> >  From this I infer the maximum contribution to the Healthcare Savings
> > Account (HSA) is $5k per year (= $416.66/month).
> >
> > The cost of the PPO is $825/month
> > The cost of the HDHP #2 ($165/month) plus the cost of the HSA
> > contribution ($416.66/month) is $581.66, which is $243.34 less
> > than the cost of the PPO, as you said.
> >
> > 1. Does the HSA really roll over from year to year without any
> > problem?
> >
> > 2. How healthy is your family?
> >
> > 3. Do you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis?
> >
> > Yes, the problem with the HDHPs is you have to cover whatever comes
> > up, whether from your HSA or directly from your pocket.
> >
> > If your family is healthy and won't have any accidents, the HDHP is
> > the way to go.
> >
> > If your family is not healthy, or if you have expensive monthly
> > prescriptions, or if you have an accident not covered by your
> > automobile or other insurance, the HDHPs are not such a good deal.
> > In that case the PPO would be preferable.
> >
> >
> > Craig
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > 
> >
> >
> > On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 21:04:17 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
> >  wrote:
> >
> >> On 8/26/2019 8:52 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
> >>> On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 19:49:22 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
> >>>  wrote:
> >>>
>  What are the thoughts on an employer PPO plan as opposed to a HDHP.
>  Let's say a PPO family plan has a $500 individual, $1000 family
>  deductible.  Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000.  Coinsurance is $15
>  for doctor visits and other items are 10% after deductible is met.
>  Prescriptions are
> >>> What?
> >> $10/$25/$50 copay depending on the drug
>  Cost for PPO is $825/month.
>  HDHP #1 is $2000/$2700 deductible with $4000/$8000 out of pocket.
>  HDHP
>  #2 is $3000/$6000 deductible with $6000/$12000 out of pocket.  Cost
>  #for
>  care is 20% for everything after deductible is met including
>  prescriptions.
> >>> For both HDHP's?
> >> 20% is the same on both plans
> >>>
>  HDHP #1 is $420 per month.
>  HDHP #2 is $165 a month.
> 
>  If going with HDHP plan you can setup a HSA with a max contribution
>  of $5k per year with a $2k employer contribution.
> >>> Is the employer contribution independent of what you contribute?
> >> I think it is an up to thing.  If you contribute $5k, they contribute
> >> $2k.  I would assume if you put in less they put in less.
> >>>
>  My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in
>  the max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around
>  $243 less
> >>> Than what?
> >> Less than the premium paid on under the PPO plan
> >>>
>  per month.  Plus the $416 or so you put in would stay in the
>  account and roll over year to year as opposed to paying it out in
>  premiums. Problem is if you have something come up you would have
>  to cover it out of pocket and hopefully have enough in the HSA at
> 

Re: [MBZ] OT PPO V HDHP w/HSA

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I forgot to mention the PPO plan has an embedded deductible and the HDHP 
is non embedded.  I am not sure exactly how all that works or which one 
would be better.


On 8/26/2019 9:50 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

So what you have are:


PPO costs $825/month
PPO family plan has $500 individual, $1000 family deductible
Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000
Coinsurance is $15 for doctor visits and other items
 are 10% after deductible is met
Drug copay is $10/$25/$50, depending on the drug


HDHP #1 (High Deductible Health Plan) costs $420 per month
HDHP #1 has $2000 individual, $2700 family deductible
Out of pocket max is $4000/$8000
Cost for care is 20% for everything after deductible is met
 including prescriptions


HDHP #2 costs $165 a month
HDHP #2 has $3000 individual, $6000 family deductible
Out of pocket max is $6000/$12000
Cost for care is 20% for everything after deductible is met
 including prescriptions




My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in the
max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around $243 less
than the premium paid on under the PPO plan per month.  Plus the $416
or so you put in would stay in the account and roll over year to year
as opposed to paying it out in premiums. Problem is if you have
something come up you would have to cover it out of pocket and
hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time. Other problem is
if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis.

 From this I infer the maximum contribution to the Healthcare Savings
Account (HSA) is $5k per year (= $416.66/month).

The cost of the PPO is $825/month
The cost of the HDHP #2 ($165/month) plus the cost of the HSA
contribution ($416.66/month) is $581.66, which is $243.34 less
than the cost of the PPO, as you said.

1. Does the HSA really roll over from year to year without any problem?

2. How healthy is your family?

3. Do you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis?

Yes, the problem with the HDHPs is you have to cover whatever comes up,
whether from your HSA or directly from your pocket.

If your family is healthy and won't have any accidents, the HDHP is the
way to go.

If your family is not healthy, or if you have expensive monthly
prescriptions, or if you have an accident not covered by your
automobile or other insurance, the HDHPs are not such a good deal.
In that case the PPO would be preferable.


Craig







On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 21:04:17 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
 wrote:


On 8/26/2019 8:52 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 19:49:22 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
 wrote:


What are the thoughts on an employer PPO plan as opposed to a HDHP.
Let's say a PPO family plan has a $500 individual, $1000 family
deductible.  Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000.  Coinsurance is $15
for doctor visits and other items are 10% after deductible is met.
Prescriptions are

What?

$10/$25/$50 copay depending on the drug

Cost for PPO is $825/month.
HDHP #1 is $2000/$2700 deductible with $4000/$8000 out of pocket.
HDHP
#2 is $3000/$6000 deductible with $6000/$12000 out of pocket.  Cost
#for
care is 20% for everything after deductible is met including
prescriptions.

For both HDHP's?

20% is the same on both plans



HDHP #1 is $420 per month.
HDHP #2 is $165 a month.

If going with HDHP plan you can setup a HSA with a max contribution
of $5k per year with a $2k employer contribution.

Is the employer contribution independent of what you contribute?

I think it is an up to thing.  If you contribute $5k, they contribute
$2k.  I would assume if you put in less they put in less.



My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in
the max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around
$243 less

Than what?

Less than the premium paid on under the PPO plan
   

per month.  Plus the $416 or so you put in would stay in the account
and roll over year to year as opposed to paying it out in premiums.
Problem is if you have something come up you would have to cover it
out of pocket and hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time.
Other problem is if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly
basis.

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Re: [MBZ] OT PPO V HDHP w/HSA

[Craig via Mercedes]

So what you have are:


PPO costs $825/month
PPO family plan has $500 individual, $1000 family deductible
Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000
Coinsurance is $15 for doctor visits and other items
are 10% after deductible is met
Drug copay is $10/$25/$50, depending on the drug


HDHP #1 (High Deductible Health Plan) costs $420 per month
HDHP #1 has $2000 individual, $2700 family deductible
Out of pocket max is $4000/$8000
Cost for care is 20% for everything after deductible is met
including prescriptions


HDHP #2 costs $165 a month
HDHP #2 has $3000 individual, $6000 family deductible
Out of pocket max is $6000/$12000
Cost for care is 20% for everything after deductible is met
including prescriptions



> My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in the
> max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around $243 less
> than the premium paid on under the PPO plan per month.  Plus the $416
> or so you put in would stay in the account and roll over year to year
> as opposed to paying it out in premiums. Problem is if you have
> something come up you would have to cover it out of pocket and
> hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time. Other problem is
> if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis.

From this I infer the maximum contribution to the Healthcare Savings
Account (HSA) is $5k per year (= $416.66/month).

The cost of the PPO is $825/month
The cost of the HDHP #2 ($165/month) plus the cost of the HSA
contribution ($416.66/month) is $581.66, which is $243.34 less
than the cost of the PPO, as you said.

1. Does the HSA really roll over from year to year without any problem?

2. How healthy is your family?

3. Do you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis?

Yes, the problem with the HDHPs is you have to cover whatever comes up,
whether from your HSA or directly from your pocket.

If your family is healthy and won't have any accidents, the HDHP is the
way to go.

If your family is not healthy, or if you have expensive monthly
prescriptions, or if you have an accident not covered by your
automobile or other insurance, the HDHPs are not such a good deal.
In that case the PPO would be preferable.


Craig







On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 21:04:17 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
 wrote:

> 
> On 8/26/2019 8:52 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
> > On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 19:49:22 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
> >  wrote:
> >
> >> What are the thoughts on an employer PPO plan as opposed to a HDHP.
> >> Let's say a PPO family plan has a $500 individual, $1000 family
> >> deductible.  Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000.  Coinsurance is $15
> >> for doctor visits and other items are 10% after deductible is met.
> >> Prescriptions are
> > What?
> $10/$25/$50 copay depending on the drug
> >
> >> Cost for PPO is $825/month.
> >
> >> HDHP #1 is $2000/$2700 deductible with $4000/$8000 out of pocket.
> >> HDHP
> >> #2 is $3000/$6000 deductible with $6000/$12000 out of pocket.  Cost
> >> #for
> >> care is 20% for everything after deductible is met including
> >> prescriptions.
> > For both HDHP's?
> 20% is the same on both plans
> >
> >
> >> HDHP #1 is $420 per month.
> >> HDHP #2 is $165 a month.
> >>
> >> If going with HDHP plan you can setup a HSA with a max contribution
> >> of $5k per year with a $2k employer contribution.
> > Is the employer contribution independent of what you contribute?
> I think it is an up to thing.  If you contribute $5k, they contribute 
> $2k.  I would assume if you put in less they put in less.
> >
> >
> >> My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in
> >> the max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around
> >> $243 less
> > Than what?
> Less than the premium paid on under the PPO plan
> >   
> >> per month.  Plus the $416 or so you put in would stay in the account
> >> and roll over year to year as opposed to paying it out in premiums.
> >> Problem is if you have something come up you would have to cover it
> >> out of pocket and hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time.
> >> Other problem is if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly
> >> basis.

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Re: [MBZ] 220SE on BaT

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Yeah I heard those badges can double the value of a car.

On Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 6:09 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> If only he hadn't waited until after the auction started to research the
> odometer history...
> Mitch.
> > On August 26, 2019 at 8:00 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Or at least a 200,000 km grille badge?
> >
>
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT PPO V HDHP w/HSA

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

On 8/26/2019 8:52 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 19:49:22 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
 wrote:


What are the thoughts on an employer PPO plan as opposed to a HDHP.
Let's say a PPO family plan has a $500 individual, $1000 family
deductible.  Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000.  Coinsurance is $15 for
doctor visits and other items are 10% after deductible is met.
Prescriptions are

What?

$10/$25/$50 copay depending on the drug



Cost for PPO is $825/month.



HDHP #1 is $2000/$2700 deductible with $4000/$8000 out of pocket.  HDHP
#2 is $3000/$6000 deductible with $6000/$12000 out of pocket.  Cost for
care is 20% for everything after deductible is met including
prescriptions.

For both HDHP's?

20% is the same on both plans




HDHP #1 is $420 per month.
HDHP #2 is $165 a month.

If going with HDHP plan you can setup a HSA with a max contribution of
$5k per year with a $2k employer contribution.

Is the employer contribution independent of what you contribute?
I think it is an up to thing.  If you contribute $5k, they contribute 
$2k.  I would assume if you put in less they put in less.




My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in the
max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around $243 less

Than what?

Less than the premium paid on under the PPO plan
  

per month.  Plus the $416 or so you put in would stay in the account
and roll over year to year as opposed to paying it out in premiums.
Problem is if you have something come up you would have to cover it out
of pocket and hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time.  Other
problem is if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis.

Anybody been down this road before?

Sort of ...


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT PPO V HDHP w/HSA

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 19:49:22 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
 wrote:

> What are the thoughts on an employer PPO plan as opposed to a HDHP.  
> Let's say a PPO family plan has a $500 individual, $1000 family 
> deductible.  Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000.  Coinsurance is $15 for 
> doctor visits and other items are 10% after deductible is met.  
> Prescriptions are

What?

> Cost for PPO is $825/month. 


> HDHP #1 is $2000/$2700 deductible with $4000/$8000 out of pocket.  HDHP 
> #2 is $3000/$6000 deductible with $6000/$12000 out of pocket.  Cost for 
> care is 20% for everything after deductible is met including
> prescriptions.

For both HDHP's?


> HDHP #1 is $420 per month.
> HDHP #2 is $165 a month.
> 
> If going with HDHP plan you can setup a HSA with a max contribution of 
> $5k per year with a $2k employer contribution.

Is the employer contribution independent of what you contribute?


> My thought is you would [go] with the lowest cost option and put in the 
> max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around $243 less

Than what?
 
> per month.  Plus the $416 or so you put in would stay in the account
> and roll over year to year as opposed to paying it out in premiums.
> Problem is if you have something come up you would have to cover it out
> of pocket and hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time.  Other
> problem is if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis.
> 
> Anybody been down this road before?

Sort of ...


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 220SE on BaT

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

If only he hadn't waited until after the auction started to research the 
odometer history...
Mitch. 
> On August 26, 2019 at 8:00 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Or at least a 200,000 km grille badge?
>

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[MBZ] OT PPO V HDHP w/HSA

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

What are the thoughts on an employer PPO plan as opposed to a HDHP.  
Let's say a PPO family plan has a $500 individual, $1000 family 
deductible.  Out of pocket max is $2500/$5000.  Coinsurance is $15 for 
doctor visits and other items are 10% after deductible is met.  
Prescriptions are


HDHP #1 is $2000/$2700 deductible with $4000/$8000 out of pocket.  HDHP 
#2 is $3000/$6000 deductible with $6000/$12000 out of pocket.  Cost for 
care is 20% for everything after deductible is met including prescriptions.


Cost for PPO is $825/month.  HDHP #1 is $420 per month.  HDHP #2 is $165 
a month.


If going with HDHP plan you can setup a HSA with a max contribution of 
$5k per year with a $2k employer contribution.


My thought is you would went with the lowest cost option and put in the 
max $5k per year, broken out per month you would be at around $243 less 
per month.  Plus the $416 or so you put in would stay in the account and 
roll over year to year as opposed to paying it out in premiums.  Problem 
is if you have something come up you would have to cover it out of 
pocket and hopefully have enough in the HSA at the time.  Other problem 
is if you have expensive prescriptions on a monthly basis.


Anybody been down this road before?


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Re: [MBZ] 220SE on BaT

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

Or at least a 200,000 km grille badge?

On Mon, Aug 26, 2019, 4:58 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>
> > On August 26, 2019 at 1:29 PM Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Getting some action!
> >
> > https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-mercedes-benz-220se-2/
> >
> > Now I see why Kaleb has stopped bidding, I don't see anywhere in the copy
> > to indicate that THE AIR BLOWS ICE COLD!
>
>
> More importantly, does it have Genuine Mercedes Leather Cell Phone Dash
> Pad?
>
> Mitch.
>
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Re: [MBZ] 220SE on BaT

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On August 26, 2019 at 1:29 PM Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Getting some action!
> 
> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-mercedes-benz-220se-2/
> 
> Now I see why Kaleb has stopped bidding, I don't see anywhere in the copy
> to indicate that THE AIR BLOWS ICE COLD!


More importantly, does it have Genuine Mercedes Leather Cell Phone Dash Pad?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Someone needs these

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Just the right "Swag" for a Lemons run, don't you think?
Ramp up your game a bit...

On Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 1:29 PM Rick Knoble via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> You're welcome. Gaudy indeed.
>
> Rick
>
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Re: [MBZ] Someone needs these

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

You're welcome. Gaudy indeed.

Rick

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Re: [MBZ] 220SE on BaT

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Are you ahead if the bidding ended right now?

On Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 3:41 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Yeah, things are starting to warm up as we go into the final 24 hours, as
> they usually do. I’ve had a fair amount of private inquiries about things
> as well, so those potential bidders are sitting in the wings.
>
> Tomorrow morning I expect (and hope) it will get a bit busier.
>
> I can’t really state that the AC blows ICE COLD much as I would like to,
> because it doesn’t. Around town I can get the temps down in the low 50s,
> but on the interstate at speed it will drop things down to the mid 40s. I
> didn’t want to bother taking the car all the way to the interstate just to
> get that picture…I don’t want to tempt Fate by driving it too much right
> now.
>
> -D
>
> > On Aug 26, 2019, at 1:29 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Getting some action!
> >
> > https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-mercedes-benz-220se-2/
> >
> > Now I see why Kaleb has stopped bidding, I don't see anywhere in the copy
> > to indicate that THE AIR BLOWS ICE COLD!
> > -
> > Max
> > Charleston SC
> > ___
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 220SE on BaT

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Yeah, things are starting to warm up as we go into the final 24 hours, as they 
usually do. I’ve had a fair amount of private inquiries about things as well, 
so those potential bidders are sitting in the wings.

Tomorrow morning I expect (and hope) it will get a bit busier.

I can’t really state that the AC blows ICE COLD much as I would like to, 
because it doesn’t. Around town I can get the temps down in the low 50s, but on 
the interstate at speed it will drop things down to the mid 40s. I didn’t want 
to bother taking the car all the way to the interstate just to get that 
picture…I don’t want to tempt Fate by driving it too much right now.

-D

> On Aug 26, 2019, at 1:29 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Getting some action!
> 
> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-mercedes-benz-220se-2/
> 
> Now I see why Kaleb has stopped bidding, I don't see anywhere in the copy
> to indicate that THE AIR BLOWS ICE COLD!
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] Someone needs these

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 15:24:22 -0400 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Embroidered Mercedes softball jacket. Pretty gaudy.
> 
> -D


On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 19:33:23 + Rick Knoble via Mercedes
 wrote:

> 
> 
> Rick

Yup, those are pretty gaudy, all right! I think I do not need one ...

Thank you for the picture, Rick.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Someone needs these

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Embroidered Mercedes softball jacket. Pretty gaudy.

-D


> On Aug 26, 2019, at 3:11 PM, Craig via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 15:06:14 -0400 Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
>> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/340930653482306/
> 
> What are they?
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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> 


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Re: [MBZ] Someone needs these

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 15:06:14 -0400 Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
 wrote:

> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/340930653482306/

What are they?


Craig

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[MBZ] Someone needs these

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/340930653482306/

--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 14:24:34 -0400 Meade Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:

> "Semi-related",  ha ha.

Sorry! That was an unintentional pun. I didn't
realize it was until I read your reply.


Craig

> On Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 2:19 PM Craig via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
> > Having done the conversion from automatic to manual with parts I
> > removed from a junkyard manual transmission car, I can say it is not
> > difficult, but does take a fairly long time to complete all the steps.
> >
> > It indeed will be less labor to reseal the 722.3.
> >
> > As a semi-related note, I have found having automatic transmissions in
> > our 4-wheelers to be helpful when I drive our Kenworth with its
> > 13-speed unsynchronized transmission -- I don't have to change
> > between two different clutches and their different adjustments.

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Re: [MBZ] 01 210 left me stranded

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

That happened to me when the alternator pulley damper thing failed

--FT

On 8/26/19 2:48 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

We were heading to town in on 01 e320 and heard something flapping. Pulled 
over. The belt shredded itself. Suddenly. Checked it before going on a trip 
this past weekend and it was fine. When I replaced the water pump about 20k 
miles ago I replaced the belt as well. It was in almost new condition. Had the 
kid come pick me and the other kid up, wife waited on AAA so I could get 
another belt located. I thought I had a spare but could not find it so I pulled 
the one off the wagon sitting in my shop to use until a replacement is ordered.


Sent from my iPhone

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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] 01 210 left me stranded

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

I guess I will have to start 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 26, 2019, at 1:53 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I keep the old (replaced) belt in the trunk for just such occasions.
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
> 
> 
> On Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 2:48 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
>> We were heading to town in on 01 e320 and heard something flapping. Pulled
>> over. The belt shredded itself. Suddenly. Checked it before going on a trip
>> this past weekend and it was fine. When I replaced the water pump about 20k
>> miles ago I replaced the belt as well. It was in almost new condition. Had
>> the kid come pick me and the other kid up, wife waited on AAA so I could
>> get another belt located. I thought I had a spare but could not find it so
>> I pulled the one off the wagon sitting in my shop to use until a
>> replacement is ordered.
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] 01 210 left me stranded

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

I keep the old (replaced) belt in the trunk for just such occasions.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 2:48 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> We were heading to town in on 01 e320 and heard something flapping. Pulled
> over. The belt shredded itself. Suddenly. Checked it before going on a trip
> this past weekend and it was fine. When I replaced the water pump about 20k
> miles ago I replaced the belt as well. It was in almost new condition. Had
> the kid come pick me and the other kid up, wife waited on AAA so I could
> get another belt located. I thought I had a spare but could not find it so
> I pulled the one off the wagon sitting in my shop to use until a
> replacement is ordered.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> ___
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>
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[MBZ] 01 210 left me stranded

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

We were heading to town in on 01 e320 and heard something flapping. Pulled 
over. The belt shredded itself. Suddenly. Checked it before going on a trip 
this past weekend and it was fine. When I replaced the water pump about 20k 
miles ago I replaced the belt as well. It was in almost new condition. Had the 
kid come pick me and the other kid up, wife waited on AAA so I could get 
another belt located. I thought I had a spare but could not find it so I pulled 
the one off the wagon sitting in my shop to use until a replacement is ordered. 


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

"Semi-related",  ha ha.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 2:19 PM Craig via Mercedes 
wrote:

> On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 00:15:15 -0500 Curley McLain via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
> > Would it be easier to install 4 speed, flywheel. pedals and
> > driveshaft?   Having salvaged the petals from Mao's 240D, I can attest
> > that it is not easy to swap petals, and the clutch master.  I'm
> > thinking it will be less labor to reseal the 722.3 than to try to
> > convert to manual.
>
> Having done the conversion from automatic to manual with parts I removed
> from a junkyard manual transmission car, I can say it is not difficult,
> but does take a fairly long time to complete all the steps.
>
> It indeed will be less labor to reseal the 722.3.
>
> As a semi-related note, I have found having automatic transmissions in
> our 4-wheelers to be helpful when I drive our Kenworth with its 13-speed
> unsynchronized transmission -- I don't have to change between two
> different clutches and their different adjustments.
>
>
> Craig
>
> ___
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>
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
>
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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Mon, 26 Aug 2019 00:15:15 -0500 Curley McLain via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Would it be easier to install 4 speed, flywheel. pedals and 
> driveshaft?   Having salvaged the petals from Mao's 240D, I can attest 
> that it is not easy to swap petals, and the clutch master.  I'm
> thinking it will be less labor to reseal the 722.3 than to try to
> convert to manual.

Having done the conversion from automatic to manual with parts I removed
from a junkyard manual transmission car, I can say it is not difficult,
but does take a fairly long time to complete all the steps.

It indeed will be less labor to reseal the 722.3.

As a semi-related note, I have found having automatic transmissions in
our 4-wheelers to be helpful when I drive our Kenworth with its 13-speed
unsynchronized transmission -- I don't have to change between two
different clutches and their different adjustments.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 220SE on BaT

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

Did Kaleb bid it up to $500?

--FT

On 8/26/19 1:29 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Getting some action!

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-mercedes-benz-220se-2/

Now I see why Kaleb has stopped bidding, I don't see anywhere in the copy
to indicate that THE AIR BLOWS ICE COLD!
-
Max
Charleston SC
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--
--FT


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[MBZ] 220SE on BaT

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Getting some action!

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1965-mercedes-benz-220se-2/

Now I see why Kaleb has stopped bidding, I don't see anywhere in the copy
to indicate that THE AIR BLOWS ICE COLD!
-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] Advance Auto 25% off

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

OOoh I will give it a try!



--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Aug 26, 2019, at 12:37 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Use the secret code:
> 
> COUPON25
> 
> Should get you 25% off pretty much everything, I believe.  Don’t ask me where 
> I got this.
> 
> -D
> 
> 
>> On Aug 26, 2019, at 12:32 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I’ve been ordering stuff from them using the discounts. Doesn’t apply to 
>> everything but still a good deal 
>> 
>> Save big with promo code LDAY19 when you spend $50+. Online only. Offer 
>> valid through 9/2/2019.*
>> 
>> --FT
>> Sent from iPhone
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Here's the thread I was thinking about, should give you a good idea.
722.315, the guy used both ATSG manual and the WIS for section 27 of the
FSM, plus a couple others he downloaded.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/370024-going-rebuild-my-722-315-a.html

Here is another for an older trans, 722.118, which may have some value
beyond education.  Stretch does some courageous things and he's very good
at fabricating special tools.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/304903-722-118-automatic-transmission-rebuild-monster-diy.html

-
Max
Charleston SC


On Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 10:18 AM Max Dillon  wrote:

> There is a thread on peach parts that documents a 722.? rebuild, either a
> .3 or a .4.  Rebuild kit was only $150 or so, and the ATSG rebuild manual
> was sufficient.  I think the fellow fabricated any special tools he needed
> from wood, his first time into an auto trans, and all it took was loads of
> time and patience.
>
> Simple Green and a power washer will clean it right up.
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
>
> On August 26, 2019 1:15:15 AM EDT, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >I'm getting some of the projects ahead whittled down so I am beginning
> >to think more about replacing the dead trans in the 81 240D.  I have a
> >used trans from Kaleb that is supposed to be good.  However the seals
> >are old and so are all rubber parts.  I think I should put in new seals
> >
> >for sure.   If it were you, would you try to replace all orings, seals
> >and other rubber parts?  Would you replace the clutch packs?  It
> >probably makes sense to replace B2 piston and K3 spring.
> >
> >Where would you source oring and clutch pack parts from? ( seals and
> >B2/k3 are known)
> >
> >What else is rubber besides seals and orings?
> >
> >What is the best way to clean up the outside of the case before
> >starting?
> >
> >What are the pitfalls of trying to work on an auto trans without books
> >or prior training?  I've done manual trans before.
> >
> >Would it be easier to install 4 speed, flywheel. pedals and
> >driveshaft?   Having salvaged the petals from Mao's 240D, I can attest
> >that it is not easy to swap petals, and the clutch master.  I'm
> >thinking
> >it will be less labor to reseal the 722.3 than to try to convert to
> >manual.
> >
> >What do all y'all think?
> >
> >___
> >http://www.okiebenz.com
> >
> >To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Advance Auto 25% off

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Use the secret code:

COUPON25

Should get you 25% off pretty much everything, I believe.  Don’t ask me where I 
got this.

-D


> On Aug 26, 2019, at 12:32 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I’ve been ordering stuff from them using the discounts. Doesn’t apply to 
> everything but still a good deal 
> 
> Save big with promo code LDAY19 when you spend $50+. Online only. Offer valid 
> through 9/2/2019.*
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
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> 
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> 


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[MBZ] Advance Auto 25% off

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

I’ve been ordering stuff from them using the discounts. Doesn’t apply to 
everything but still a good deal 

Save big with promo code LDAY19 when you spend $50+. Online only. Offer valid 
through 9/2/2019.*

--FT
Sent from iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes]

This is on my long term goals list... to get into a 722.x and start
collecting the tools to the do the job.  I have two 722.0's which I can
experiment with, and the microfiche that covers those transmissions.

Jaime


On Mon, Aug 26, 2019 at 10:52 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> For the most part a good snap ring pliers and compressed air are the main
> things. I’m not familiar with the innards of an MB transmission, but on the
> domestic stuff the specialized tools were mainly seal drivers and things to
> hold clutches and pressure plates together while you put snap rings back
> into place. A lot of them can be fabricated, but I wouldn’t want to go into
> one of these blind without a lot of time on my hands.
>
> If you do you know you’ll need to give us a blow-by-blow of the experience.
>
> -D
>
>
> > On Aug 26, 2019, at 10:15 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > thanks Dan.  Makes sense. This is a one year only AT used in 1981.  It
> has no cable for throttle position.  If I can get seal numbers they are
> easy to get from a bearing house.   B2/K3 Probably Autohaus, but maybe one
> of the others.
> >
> > Out of curiosity, what special tools are needed to repair innards?
> >
> >
> > Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote on 8/26/19 6:32 AM:
> >> If it was out of the car I would probably replace all the external
> stuff I could get to, that is, seals like the front pump seal, tailshaft,
> selector rod shaft, B2/K3, vacuum stuff, etc.  Not sure I would tear into
> the internals unless absolutely necessary. I’ve rebuilt domestic
> slushboxes, which aren’t a whole lot different from the Mercedes version,
> but only when I had all the tools handy.
> >>
> >> Simple Green or any degreaser for the outside. That and a stiff bristle
> brush.
> >>
> >> If you’ve never cracked open an automatic transmission I wouldn’t
> suggest doing it with this one. If it was something simple like a
> Powerglide or THM that’s one thing, but without the tools required you’ll
> get in over your head quickly and end up with a bunch of scrap aluminum.
> Since there’s no real way to test it short of reinstalling, you really
> don’t want to go to the effort only to have to yank it back out, either.
> >>
> >> Unless the fluid that’s in it is burnt, I would just do the external
> stuff, change the fluid and filter, pop it into the car and call it good.
> >>
> >> -D
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ___
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> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
>
>
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>

-- 
Jaime Kopchinski
http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

For the most part a good snap ring pliers and compressed air are the main 
things. I’m not familiar with the innards of an MB transmission, but on the 
domestic stuff the specialized tools were mainly seal drivers and things to 
hold clutches and pressure plates together while you put snap rings back into 
place. A lot of them can be fabricated, but I wouldn’t want to go into one of 
these blind without a lot of time on my hands.

If you do you know you’ll need to give us a blow-by-blow of the experience.

-D


> On Aug 26, 2019, at 10:15 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> thanks Dan.  Makes sense. This is a one year only AT used in 1981.  It has no 
> cable for throttle position.  If I can get seal numbers they are easy to get 
> from a bearing house.   B2/K3 Probably Autohaus, but maybe one of the others.
> 
> Out of curiosity, what special tools are needed to repair innards?
> 
> 
> Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote on 8/26/19 6:32 AM:
>> If it was out of the car I would probably replace all the external stuff I 
>> could get to, that is, seals like the front pump seal, tailshaft, selector 
>> rod shaft, B2/K3, vacuum stuff, etc.  Not sure I would tear into the 
>> internals unless absolutely necessary. I’ve rebuilt domestic slushboxes, 
>> which aren’t a whole lot different from the Mercedes version, but only when 
>> I had all the tools handy.
>> 
>> Simple Green or any degreaser for the outside. That and a stiff bristle 
>> brush.
>> 
>> If you’ve never cracked open an automatic transmission I wouldn’t suggest 
>> doing it with this one. If it was something simple like a Powerglide or THM 
>> that’s one thing, but without the tools required you’ll get in over your 
>> head quickly and end up with a bunch of scrap aluminum. Since there’s no 
>> real way to test it short of reinstalling, you really don’t want to go to 
>> the effort only to have to yank it back out, either.
>> 
>> Unless the fluid that’s in it is burnt, I would just do the external stuff, 
>> change the fluid and filter, pop it into the car and call it good.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Max Dillon via Mercedes]

There is a thread on peach parts that documents a 722.? rebuild, either a .3 or 
a .4.  Rebuild kit was only $150 or so, and the ATSG rebuild manual was 
sufficient.  I think the fellow fabricated any special tools he needed from 
wood, his first time into an auto trans, and all it took was loads of time and 
patience.

Simple Green and a power washer will clean it right up.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC

On August 26, 2019 1:15:15 AM EDT, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>I'm getting some of the projects ahead whittled down so I am beginning 
>to think more about replacing the dead trans in the 81 240D.  I have a 
>used trans from Kaleb that is supposed to be good.  However the seals 
>are old and so are all rubber parts.  I think I should put in new seals
>
>for sure.   If it were you, would you try to replace all orings, seals 
>and other rubber parts?  Would you replace the clutch packs?  It 
>probably makes sense to replace B2 piston and K3 spring.
>
>Where would you source oring and clutch pack parts from? ( seals and 
>B2/k3 are known)
>
>What else is rubber besides seals and orings?
>
>What is the best way to clean up the outside of the case before
>starting?
>
>What are the pitfalls of trying to work on an auto trans without books 
>or prior training?  I've done manual trans before.
>
>Would it be easier to install 4 speed, flywheel. pedals and 
>driveshaft?   Having salvaged the petals from Mao's 240D, I can attest 
>that it is not easy to swap petals, and the clutch master.  I'm
>thinking 
>it will be less labor to reseal the 722.3 than to try to convert to
>manual.
>
>What do all y'all think?
>
>___
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>
>To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

thanks Dan.  Makes sense. This is a one year only AT used in 1981.  It 
has no cable for throttle position.  If I can get seal numbers they are 
easy to get from a bearing house.   B2/K3 Probably Autohaus, but maybe 
one of the others.


Out of curiosity, what special tools are needed to repair innards?


Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote on 8/26/19 6:32 AM:

If it was out of the car I would probably replace all the external stuff I 
could get to, that is, seals like the front pump seal, tailshaft, selector rod 
shaft, B2/K3, vacuum stuff, etc.  Not sure I would tear into the internals 
unless absolutely necessary. I’ve rebuilt domestic slushboxes, which aren’t a 
whole lot different from the Mercedes version, but only when I had all the 
tools handy.

Simple Green or any degreaser for the outside. That and a stiff bristle brush.

If you’ve never cracked open an automatic transmission I wouldn’t suggest doing 
it with this one. If it was something simple like a Powerglide or THM that’s 
one thing, but without the tools required you’ll get in over your head quickly 
and end up with a bunch of scrap aluminum. Since there’s no real way to test it 
short of reinstalling, you really don’t want to go to the effort only to have 
to yank it back out, either.

Unless the fluid that’s in it is burnt, I would just do the external stuff, 
change the fluid and filter, pop it into the car and call it good.

-D






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[MBZ] Other than that, car runs & drives great!

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/515882075852456/

--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

I’ve done THMs (turbohydramatics - GM products) and C3s (Ford) back in the day. 
Not difficult to work on, and require a minimal amount of tools other than a 
high quality snap ring plier set.

When I went to tech school to train as a mechanic I was pretty familiar with 
every system in a car except automatic transmissions. They were a black box to 
me. I was amazed at what I learned when I went through that part of my 
training. Automatic transmission are pretty amazing pieces of engineering, 
especially the older, strictly mechanical/hydraulic ones. The valve bodies are 
the part that really fascinate me.

One of my instructors was a guy who pioneered the use of Powerglides in rail 
dragsters. He showed us a lot of interesting and simple modifications to beef 
up a stock transmission (many of which I’ve forgotten, no doubt.)

-D




> On Aug 26, 2019, at 8:08 AM, Curt Raymond  wrote:
> 
> Speaking of simple automatic transmissions I thought this C4 rebuild video as 
> pretty cool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKIvPdYB490 
> 
> 
> MB content, well, just watch...
> 
> -Curt
> 
> On Monday, August 26, 2019, 7:33:34 AM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> If it was out of the car I would probably replace all the external stuff I 
> could get to, that is, seals like the front pump seal, tailshaft, selector 
> rod shaft, B2/K3, vacuum stuff, etc.  Not sure I would tear into the 
> internals unless absolutely necessary. I’ve rebuilt domestic slushboxes, 
> which aren’t a whole lot different from the Mercedes version, but only when I 
> had all the tools handy.
> 
> Simple Green or any degreaser for the outside. That and a stiff bristle brush.
> 
> If you’ve never cracked open an automatic transmission I wouldn’t suggest 
> doing it with this one. If it was something simple like a Powerglide or THM 
> that’s one thing, but without the tools required you’ll get in over your head 
> quickly and end up with a bunch of scrap aluminum. Since there’s no real way 
> to test it short of reinstalling, you really don’t want to go to the effort 
> only to have to yank it back out, either.
> 
> Unless the fluid that’s in it is burnt, I would just do the external stuff, 
> change the fluid and filter, pop it into the car and call it good.
> 
> -D
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > On Aug 26, 2019, at 1:15 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
> > mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
> > 
> > I'm getting some of the projects ahead whittled down so I am beginning to 
> > think more about replacing the dead trans in the 81 240D.  I have a used 
> > trans from Kaleb that is supposed to be good.  However the seals are old 
> > and so are all rubber parts.  I think I should put in new seals for sure.  
> > If it were you, would you try to replace all orings, seals and other rubber 
> > parts?  Would you replace the clutch packs?  It probably makes sense to 
> > replace B2 piston and K3 spring.
> > 
> > Where would you source oring and clutch pack parts from? ( seals and B2/k3 
> > are known)
> > 
> > What else is rubber besides seals and orings?
> > 
> > What is the best way to clean up the outside of the case before starting?
> > 
> > What are the pitfalls of trying to work on an auto trans without books or 
> > prior training?  I've done manual trans before.
> > 
> > Would it be easier to install 4 speed, flywheel. pedals and driveshaft?  
> > Having salvaged the petals from Mao's 240D, I can attest that it is not 
> > easy to swap petals, and the clutch master.  I'm thinking it will be less 
> > labor to reseal the 722.3 than to try to convert to manual.
> > 
> > What do all y'all think?
> > 
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com 
> > 
> > To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ 
> > 
> > 
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> > 
> 
> > 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
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> 
> 

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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 Speaking of simple automatic transmissions I thought this C4 rebuild video as 
pretty cool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MKIvPdYB490
MB content, well, just watch...
-Curt

On Monday, August 26, 2019, 7:33:34 AM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
 wrote:  
 
 If it was out of the car I would probably replace all the external stuff I 
could get to, that is, seals like the front pump seal, tailshaft, selector rod 
shaft, B2/K3, vacuum stuff, etc.  Not sure I would tear into the internals 
unless absolutely necessary. I’ve rebuilt domestic slushboxes, which aren’t a 
whole lot different from the Mercedes version, but only when I had all the 
tools handy.

Simple Green or any degreaser for the outside. That and a stiff bristle brush.

If you’ve never cracked open an automatic transmission I wouldn’t suggest doing 
it with this one. If it was something simple like a Powerglide or THM that’s 
one thing, but without the tools required you’ll get in over your head quickly 
and end up with a bunch of scrap aluminum. Since there’s no real way to test it 
short of reinstalling, you really don’t want to go to the effort only to have 
to yank it back out, either.

Unless the fluid that’s in it is burnt, I would just do the external stuff, 
change the fluid and filter, pop it into the car and call it good.

-D




> On Aug 26, 2019, at 1:15 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm getting some of the projects ahead whittled down so I am beginning to 
> think more about replacing the dead trans in the 81 240D.  I have a used 
> trans from Kaleb that is supposed to be good.  However the seals are old and 
> so are all rubber parts.  I think I should put in new seals for sure.  If it 
> were you, would you try to replace all orings, seals and other rubber parts?  
> Would you replace the clutch packs?  It probably makes sense to replace B2 
> piston and K3 spring.
> 
> Where would you source oring and clutch pack parts from? ( seals and B2/k3 
> are known)
> 
> What else is rubber besides seals and orings?
> 
> What is the best way to clean up the outside of the case before starting?
> 
> What are the pitfalls of trying to work on an auto trans without books or 
> prior training?  I've done manual trans before.
> 
> Would it be easier to install 4 speed, flywheel. pedals and driveshaft?  
> Having salvaged the petals from Mao's 240D, I can attest that it is not easy 
> to swap petals, and the clutch master.  I'm thinking it will be less labor to 
> reseal the 722.3 than to try to convert to manual.
> 
> What do all y'all think?
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


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Re: [MBZ] hmmm would a diesel bolt up to this?

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

> On August 25, 2019 at 6:39 PM Craig via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> Is this one of those which has the limited number of brake actuations
> before things stop working?

That's a W211 thing.
1999 would be W210.

Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] 722.3 trans

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

If it was out of the car I would probably replace all the external stuff I 
could get to, that is, seals like the front pump seal, tailshaft, selector rod 
shaft, B2/K3, vacuum stuff, etc.  Not sure I would tear into the internals 
unless absolutely necessary. I’ve rebuilt domestic slushboxes, which aren’t a 
whole lot different from the Mercedes version, but only when I had all the 
tools handy.

Simple Green or any degreaser for the outside. That and a stiff bristle brush.

If you’ve never cracked open an automatic transmission I wouldn’t suggest doing 
it with this one. If it was something simple like a Powerglide or THM that’s 
one thing, but without the tools required you’ll get in over your head quickly 
and end up with a bunch of scrap aluminum. Since there’s no real way to test it 
short of reinstalling, you really don’t want to go to the effort only to have 
to yank it back out, either.

Unless the fluid that’s in it is burnt, I would just do the external stuff, 
change the fluid and filter, pop it into the car and call it good.

-D




> On Aug 26, 2019, at 1:15 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm getting some of the projects ahead whittled down so I am beginning to 
> think more about replacing the dead trans in the 81 240D.  I have a used 
> trans from Kaleb that is supposed to be good.  However the seals are old and 
> so are all rubber parts.  I think I should put in new seals for sure.   If it 
> were you, would you try to replace all orings, seals and other rubber parts?  
> Would you replace the clutch packs?  It probably makes sense to replace B2 
> piston and K3 spring.
> 
> Where would you source oring and clutch pack parts from? ( seals and B2/k3 
> are known)
> 
> What else is rubber besides seals and orings?
> 
> What is the best way to clean up the outside of the case before starting?
> 
> What are the pitfalls of trying to work on an auto trans without books or 
> prior training?  I've done manual trans before.
> 
> Would it be easier to install 4 speed, flywheel. pedals and driveshaft?   
> Having salvaged the petals from Mao's 240D, I can attest that it is not easy 
> to swap petals, and the clutch master.  I'm thinking it will be less labor to 
> reseal the 722.3 than to try to convert to manual.
> 
> What do all y'all think?
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 


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