Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 172, Issue 110

[Ronald Courcy via Mercedes]

Re Dan Penoff. Minin split system.
The big players are Mitsubisihi and Fujitsu . What is the seer rating of the 
system.
Ac or ac & heat?  Most manufacturers make multiple efficiency levels of their 
systems. With the more efficient ones costing more. I installed a handful of 
them and have been using some for nearly 10 years at my primary residence.
Very happy with the performance.
Ron Courcymultiple MB vehicles.

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To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Subject: Mercedes Digest, Vol 172, Issue 110

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Loosening the horizontal console wood (Meade Dillon)
   2. Re: Loosening the horizontal console wood (Craig)
   3. Re: It?s hard to tell fact from fiction (Clay)
   4. Re: OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating (Curley McLain)
   5. OT - Mini-Split (Dan Penoff)
   6. Re: OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating (Dan Penoff)
   7. Re: Win XP needed (Frederick Moir)
   8. Re: OT - Mini-Split (Buggered Benzmail)
   9. Re: OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating (Curley McLain)
  10. Re: Loosening the horizontal console wood (Max Dillon)
  11. crossflow refrig condensor for 134a (Curley McLain)
  12. Re: OT - Mini-Split (Dan Penoff)


--

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 17:30:19 -0400
From: Meade Dillon 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Loosening the horizontal console wood
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"

Use a bright light, find the two screws inside the console box, one each
side, I think toward the front of the box.  Get that console box out of the
way and you'll find the screw to remove so you can get the center console
wood piece out.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 5:00 PM Craig via Mercedes 
wrote:

> Now I need some help with my 1993 E300D/2.5 Turbo
>
> I want to remove the ashtray.
>
> I have already taken out the two Phillips screws in the upper rear of the
> ashtray assembly.
>
> I know I need to slide the horizontal console wood (the one through which
> the shift lever pokes) to the rear, but the console "glove" box is over
> where the end of the wood is.
>
> On our previous E300D (1990), I could readily access the the aft end of
> the wood, remove a screw, and slide the wood backwards. This one does not
> seem to have that option.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Craig
>
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--

Message: 2
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 15:51:19 -0600
From: Craig 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Loosening the horizontal console wood
Message-ID: <20200314155119.2bbe4ea3b57f48da93ac1...@pisquared.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On Sat, 14 Mar 2020 17:30:19 -0400 Meade Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Use a bright light, find the two screws inside the console box, one each
> side, I think toward the front of the box.  Get that console box out of
> the way and you'll find the screw to remove so you can get the center
> console wood piece out.

Thank you, Max, for the reply. It turns out I did just what you said and
came back to the computer to post I had found the solution and saw your
email.

The two screws are at the extreme front end of the console box on the
outside corners underneath fuzz, hair, and other cruft so they were
hidden. Once that was out of the way, yes, the screw to remove was
visible and now the ashtray is out.

I put the radio removal tools I got from Floyd's link on Amazon and am
now trying to pull the radio out so I can disconnect the electrical plugs.

The radio, however, does not want to cooperate.

Do I just pull harder?


Craig



--

Message: 3
Date: Sat, 14 Mar 2020 13:52:34 -0800
From: Clay 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] It?s hard to tell fact from fiction
Message-ID: <8b183e87-1af9-4322-9656-6cc46dd6f...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

This was the existential crisis/mass hysteria of the moment as the whoohoo flu 
was just kicking off, early Dec. 2019.  Media produced lies and muckraking 
where three months later Death and TP depletion took hold.

[MBZ] a project for Poos

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

https://www.copart.com/lot/33304950


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Re: [MBZ] OT Kitchen Cupboards again

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

In my case I’m replacing cabinets, a section of drywall on one wall, 
countertops, sink and faucet.

My kitchen is what I would describe as an “open galley” of two more or less 
parallel walls, the end of one that sort of bends in at an angle with a pass 
over/bar, and an island consisting of a single 60” base cabinet. I’m guessing 
based on initial numbers that I’ll have around $8k in cabinets. Not sure about 
countertops, but going price averages around $50/SF installed depending on what 
you get, so that will be a chunk of change as well.

The long wall has a tiled backsplash on it presently, but that’s the drywall 
I’ll be replacing. I’ll have to do a 4’ wide sheet all the way across at waist 
level after I demo the tiled backsplash. Fortunately, I won’t have to be pretty 
with the joints, as they’ll be hidden behind the base and wall cabinets.

Existing electrical is fine, no changes there.

We’ll replace the existing double oven/range with another, newer unit, and keep 
the fridge and dishwasher (Bosch, of course!)

So let’s call it $12k-$14k by the time the dust settles not including the new 
range. I’ll have more detailed numbers in another week or two as I dial things 
in and get the final estimates based on what we choose to do.

Randy - forget about the toe kicks and build roll out drawers for storage 
there. That’s a new design feature that’s in vogue now. They just frame shallow 
boxes and put these big wheels on the sides so you can roll them in and out. 
Makes for a nice place to store stuff like cookie sheets or cutting boards.

https://www.kraftmaid.com/toe-kick-drawer/ 


-D

> On Mar 24, 2020, at 5:19 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Rather than tag onto Dan's original email on the subject, I thought I would 
> just start over.
> 
> What do you folks expect to pay for a kitchen remodel. I have had clients who 
> spent over $100K renovating their kitchens. I gather it is not difficult to 
> spend at least $50K as friends did that a few years back.
> 
> I am poor and frugal. I built my own. It took quite a while - mostly because 
> we worked on the cabinets in winters and stopped in summers and made more 
> changes along the way. All told, I don't think we spent more than about $5K. 
> They are solid oak and plywood. I think you could park a truck on the counter 
> without crushing them and the uppers are supporting hundreds of pounds of 
> dishes. There are no doors on the bottom cabinets apart from 2 under the 
> sink. All the rest of the bottom cabinets have drawers. The uppers all have 
> water glass inset into the doors. We did not go high end on the counter tops. 
> We debated about doing Corion (sp?) but my wife was concerned that she might 
> tire of the colour so we went with fairly basic counter tops on the 
> assumption that it would be easier to justify replacement if she decided she 
> wanted something different. That is the only place where there is particle 
> board - under the formica or whatever you prefer to call it.They may look a 
> bit dated by current standards but have not caused much trouble in about 15 
> years. A few of the European style hinges have had to be replaced but that is 
> about it. They are unfortunately not quite finished but that has ceased to be 
> a priority. I need to cover the toe kick with oak and to put a trim at the 
> ceiling (the upper cabinets go all the way to the ceiling). They are also 
> getting to the point where they should have a bit more varnish applied. We 
> used water based varnish and I do not think it is quite a hardy as the old 
> polyurethane. It is a bit more easy to tolerate while coating them as it does 
> not have much odor.
> 
> RB
> 
> 
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[MBZ] OT Kitchen Cupboards again

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

Rather than tag onto Dan's original email on the subject, I thought I 
would just start over.


What do you folks expect to pay for a kitchen remodel. I have had 
clients who spent over $100K renovating their kitchens. I gather it is 
not difficult to spend at least $50K as friends did that a few years back.


I am poor and frugal. I built my own. It took quite a while - mostly 
because we worked on the cabinets in winters and stopped in summers and 
made more changes along the way. All told, I don't think we spent more 
than about $5K. They are solid oak and plywood. I think you could park a 
truck on the counter without crushing them and the uppers are supporting 
hundreds of pounds of dishes. There are no doors on the bottom cabinets 
apart from 2 under the sink. All the rest of the bottom cabinets have 
drawers. The uppers all have water glass inset into the doors. We did 
not go high end on the counter tops. We debated about doing Corion (sp?) 
but my wife was concerned that she might tire of the colour so we went 
with fairly basic counter tops on the assumption that it would be easier 
to justify replacement if she decided she wanted something different. 
That is the only place where there is particle board - under the formica 
or whatever you prefer to call it.They may look a bit dated by current 
standards but have not caused much trouble in about 15 years. A few of 
the European style hinges have had to be replaced but that is about it. 
They are unfortunately not quite finished but that has ceased to be a 
priority. I need to cover the toe kick with oak and to put a trim at the 
ceiling (the upper cabinets go all the way to the ceiling). They are 
also getting to the point where they should have a bit more varnish 
applied. We used water based varnish and I do not think it is quite a 
hardy as the old polyurethane. It is a bit more easy to tolerate while 
coating them as it does not have much odor.


RB


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Re: [MBZ] The new normal

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Whatsaburger or Whataburger?  How good are they?

On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 3:34 PM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Damn I miss Whataburger
>
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
>
> > On Mar 24, 2020, at 2:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > I had to make a run to Tulsa to pickup a car from copart. Stopped at a
> whatsburger and it is of course drive thru only. Since I have a trailer I
> called in and they will bring it out. Everyone is eating their food in the
> parking lot in their car. This is the new normal.
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> > ___
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> >
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] The new normal

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

Damn I miss Whataburger

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Mar 24, 2020, at 2:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had to make a run to Tulsa to pickup a car from copart. Stopped at a 
> whatsburger and it is of course drive thru only. Since I have a trailer I 
> called in and they will bring it out. Everyone is eating their food in the 
> parking lot in their car. This is the new normal. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] BMW R60 + sidecar selling cheap on BAT

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

Beautiful! If I lived in a very small town I would have another bike but 
riding in the city is just too dangerous for my taste. I had 2 different 
small Honda bikes back in the late 60s and early 70s and then a Goldwing 
in the late 80s to early 90s but stopped riding bikes while I was still 
alive.


RB

On 24/03/2020 12:05 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

Anyone in Phoenix - this one's for you.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-bmw-r90-6-with-velorex-560-sidecar/?utm_source=dailymail_medium=email_campaign=2020-03-24
___




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Re: [MBZ] The new normal

[Randy Bennell via Mercedes]

On 24/03/2020 1:17 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

I had to make a run to Tulsa to pickup a car from copart. Stopped at a 
whatsburger and it is of course drive thru only. Since I have a trailer I 
called in and they will bring it out. Everyone is eating their food in the 
parking lot in their car. This is the new normal.

Just like the 50s and 60s when places like A & W were drive in only and 
did not have dining rooms.


RB


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[MBZ] The new normal

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

I had to make a run to Tulsa to pickup a car from copart. Stopped at a 
whatsburger and it is of course drive thru only. Since I have a trailer I 
called in and they will bring it out. Everyone is eating their food in the 
parking lot in their car. This is the new normal. 

Sent from my iPhone

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[MBZ] Red Eye Symptom

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

Red eyes might be a sign that a patient is very sick with coronavirus, 
according to a nurse who has been on the front lines of the pandemic.

Chelsey Earnest, who works at the embattled Life Care Center in Kirkland, 
Washington, claims that the eyes are a clear tell that someone is infected, CNN 
reported.

“It’s something that I witnessed in all of them,” Earnest said. “They have, 
like … allergy eyes.”

Earnest said she and her colleagues, along with admitting doctors at a nearby 
hospital, all noticed the strange symptom.

“The white part of the eye is not red. It’s more like they have red eye shadow 
on the outside of their eyes,” Earnest said.

She continued: “We’ve had patients that just had the red eyes as the only 
symptom that we saw and go to the hospital and pass away.”

“I’ve even had the disaster medical control physician say, ‘Do they have the 
red eyes?’ And I will say yes. And he’ll say, ‘I’ll find you a bed.’ It’s just 
something about this, the way that it affects these patients.”

At least 37 deaths have been linked to the COVID-19 outbreak at the Life Care 
Center.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention warns of symptoms such as high 
fever, dry cough and shortness of breath — but makes no mention of eye issues 
in the agency’s guidance on the virus...snip

https://nypost.com/2020/03/24/red-eyes-may-be-telltale-symptom-of-coronavirus-nurse/

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Kitchen Cabinets

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

We have the dark brown granite counter tops that were fashionable 20 years
ago.  They do NOT stain but are truly impressive at breaking glassware when
dropped from cabinet height..

On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 11:45 AM OK Don via Mercedes 
wrote:

> We had granite counter tops installed in the kitchen that got the Kraftmaid
> cabinets. We were only there 5 years, but had no increase in broken dishes,
> and no stains. The granite now is factory impregnated with a sealant that
> is very good. We have had a granite topped table since that last kitchen
> re-do, 13 years now, and it's been totally trouble free, other than being
> rather heavy to move - between 400 and 500 pounds I'd guess.
>
> Any bad press for granite staining is obsolete news.
>
> On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 10:13 PM Craig via Mercedes  >
> wrote:
>
> > On Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:35:50 -0400 Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
> >  wrote:
> >
> > > IMO, granite may be trendy but it's a poor material for a countertop.
> > > Expect to replace a lot of dish and glass ware.
> >
> > Because we heard of granite's propensity to absorb stains, we decided to
> > go with manufactured stone. The one we chose was LG Viatera, ordered from
> > Lowe's.
> >
> > We also had porcelain tile installed on the floor; that was the source of
> > some broken dishes, but the counters were not.
> >
> >
> > Craig
> >
> > ___
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> >
> >
>
> --
> OK Don
>
> "Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
> pause and reflect." Mark Twain
>
> “Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”
> Wernher
> Von Braun
> 2013 F150, 18 mpg
> 2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
> 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] One for AZ Bob

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

I would be more concerned about cams and timing chain. These engines are known 
to eat cams, and I noticed they replaced the oiler tubes.

-D

> On Mar 24, 2020, at 1:09 PM, Andrew Strasfogel  wrote:
> 
> I would prefer a dark blue interior, but otherwise v. nice.  HM miles before 
> these V8s need a valve job?
> 
> On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 9:32 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
> mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/d/phoenix-1991-mercedes-benz-420sel/7097119471.html
>  
> 
>  
>   
> >
> 
> I wonder if the timing chain has been done?
> 
> -D
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> 
> 
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> 
> 

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Re: [MBZ] One for AZ Bob

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

I would prefer a dark blue interior, but otherwise v. nice.  HM miles
before these V8s need a valve job?

On Tue, Mar 24, 2020 at 9:32 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>
> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/d/phoenix-1991-mercedes-benz-420sel/7097119471.html
> <
> https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/d/phoenix-1991-mercedes-benz-420sel/7097119471.html
> >
>
> I wonder if the timing chain has been done?
>
> -D
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[MBZ] BMW R60 + sidecar selling cheap on BAT

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Anyone in Phoenix - this one's for you.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-bmw-r90-6-with-velorex-560-sidecar/?utm_source=dailymail_medium=email_campaign=2020-03-24
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Kitchen Cabinets

[OK Don via Mercedes]

We had granite counter tops installed in the kitchen that got the Kraftmaid
cabinets. We were only there 5 years, but had no increase in broken dishes,
and no stains. The granite now is factory impregnated with a sealant that
is very good. We have had a granite topped table since that last kitchen
re-do, 13 years now, and it's been totally trouble free, other than being
rather heavy to move - between 400 and 500 pounds I'd guess.

Any bad press for granite staining is obsolete news.

On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 10:13 PM Craig via Mercedes 
wrote:

> On Mon, 23 Mar 2020 20:35:50 -0400 Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
>  wrote:
>
> > IMO, granite may be trendy but it's a poor material for a countertop.
> > Expect to replace a lot of dish and glass ware.
>
> Because we heard of granite's propensity to absorb stains, we decided to
> go with manufactured stone. The one we chose was LG Viatera, ordered from
> Lowe's.
>
> We also had porcelain tile installed on the floor; that was the source of
> some broken dishes, but the counters were not.
>
>
> Craig
>
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>
>

-- 
OK Don

"Whenever you find yourself on the side of the majority, it is time to
pause and reflect." Mark Twain

“Basic research is what I’m doing when I don’t know what I am doing.”  Wernher
Von Braun
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Ceiling Fan/Electrical Quandary

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

I had this friend who had redone an old house in Houston, it was a big 
old Tudor sort of thing in the fancy neighborhood.  He and his wife were 
on a trip to Italy and  found this antique Italian chandelier that had 
about 4 tiers and all these little glass balls.  Weighed about 100lb, 
had it shipped back.  He had some guy put it up to replace some other 
chandelier that was in the house. So they had a Christmas party, lot of 
people in this big room, some were dancing and bouncing the floor.  
Right in the middle of this, BOOM the thing lets go and falls about 9 or 
10ft to the floor.  Definitely dampened the mood but managed to miss any 
guest. So he calls me (did not invite me to the party, alas...) to come 
over and consult.  I see that there was just a basic box attached to a 
joist, this thing just ripped it out.  It was an old plaster ceiling so 
I couldn't really open it up to do anything.  I ended up able to fit in 
another box and work some lag screws into the joist and some other bodge 
like an angle bracket above the box I could run some metal screws into, 
I tested it by hanging on it and it seemed sturdy enough.  We managed to 
hang the chandelier back and as far as I know it is still there. (I left 
town so have not been back there for about 8 years)


--FT

On 3/24/20 11:01 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Good idea, I’ll do that. Thanks!

-D


On Mar 24, 2020, at 10:54 AM, MG via Mercedes  wrote:

That's what I have used. Allows you to move the box from side to side and 
position it just where you need it. I also add a drywall screw into each claw 
to make sure it will stay. Suspenders and belt you know!

MG

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

That may be my approach. The (ventilation) fan isn’t far from where the ceiling 
fan will go.
As for a junction box, I’m using one of the retrofit fan brace/junction box 
setups to hang the fan. They’re an expandable rod with spikes in each end that 
dig into the sides of the ceiling joists.The junction box clamps onto the rod 
to secure it. I’ve used them before to retrofit ceiling fans and they work 
quite well.
https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Raco-936-Ceiling-Fan-Support/dp/B000HEIYHA 

-D


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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Ceiling Fan/Electrical Quandary

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

When we would visit the inlaws down here the guest room we slept in had/has a 
cheap ceiling fan. As the wife wants air moving when she’s sleeping, it would 
be on all night long, “ticking” as it rotated because it wasn’t balanced. Made 
me crazy. It’s still in that room today.

When we moved down here and became accustomed to ceiling fans being in many of 
the rooms, I insisted on Hunters as I knew they were top of the line. I have 
yet to be disappointed.

-D

> On Mar 24, 2020, at 11:08 AM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
> 
>> you can almost hang from it. I believe it’s rated for 70 lbs. with a 16” 
>> span.
> 
> The mounts I made for our fans you _can_ hang from.  I used wood over
> the tops of the joists.  The box will give first.
> 
>> I am a fan snob. Hunter only. Nothing worse than a cheap ceiling fan.
> 
> Ditto.  My mom bought an ornate ceiling fan when I was young, which looked
> great but buzzed.  Sucked for napping on the couch.  That fan finally started
> squeaking/scraping, I recommended to my brother (current owner) that he
> replace it with a Hunter.  I even gave him one I'd found at the thrift shop
> for $5.  (Not an Original.)
> 
> -- Jim
> 


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Ceiling Fan/Electrical Quandary

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> you can almost hang from it. I believe it’s rated for 70 lbs. with a 16” span.

The mounts I made for our fans you _can_ hang from.  I used wood over
the tops of the joists.  The box will give first.

> I am a fan snob. Hunter only. Nothing worse than a cheap ceiling fan.

Ditto.  My mom bought an ornate ceiling fan when I was young, which looked
great but buzzed.  Sucked for napping on the couch.  That fan finally started
squeaking/scraping, I recommended to my brother (current owner) that he
replace it with a Hunter.  I even gave him one I'd found at the thrift shop
for $5.  (Not an Original.)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Ceiling Fan/Electrical Quandary

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Good idea, I’ll do that. Thanks!

-D

> On Mar 24, 2020, at 10:54 AM, MG via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> That's what I have used. Allows you to move the box from side to side and 
> position it just where you need it. I also add a drywall screw into each claw 
> to make sure it will stay. Suspenders and belt you know!
> 
> MG
> 
> Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
>> That may be my approach. The (ventilation) fan isn’t far from where the 
>> ceiling fan will go.
>> As for a junction box, I’m using one of the retrofit fan brace/junction box 
>> setups to hang the fan. They’re an expandable rod with spikes in each end 
>> that dig into the sides of the ceiling joists.The junction box clamps onto 
>> the rod to secure it. I’ve used them before to retrofit ceiling fans and 
>> they work quite well.
>> https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Raco-936-Ceiling-Fan-Support/dp/B000HEIYHA 
>> 
>> -D


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Ceiling Fan/Electrical Quandary

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Jim,

Trust me, when you run that thing out and bury the spikes into the joists, you 
can almost hang from it. I believe it’s rated for 70 lbs. with a 16” span.

I am a fan snob. Hunter only. Nothing worse than a cheap ceiling fan.

-D

> On Mar 24, 2020, at 10:51 AM, Jim Cathey  wrote:
> 
>> expandable rod with spikes in each end that dig into the sides of the 
>> ceiling joists.
> 
> That'd probably be good for anything but a Hunter Original, which weighs 50#.
> By far my favorite fan, ever.  We have two.
> 
> -- Jim
> 


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Ceiling Fan/Electrical Quandary

[MG via Mercedes]

That's what I have used. Allows you to move the 
box from side to side and position it just where 
you need it. I also add a drywall screw into each 
claw to make sure it will stay. Suspenders and 
belt you know!


MG

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

That may be my approach. The (ventilation) fan isn’t far from where the ceiling 
fan will go.

As for a junction box, I’m using one of the retrofit fan brace/junction box 
setups to hang the fan. They’re an expandable rod with spikes in each end that 
dig into the sides of the ceiling joists.The junction box clamps onto the rod 
to secure it. I’ve used them before to retrofit ceiling fans and they work 
quite well.

https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Raco-936-Ceiling-Fan-Support/dp/B000HEIYHA 


-D



On Mar 24, 2020, at 9:42 AM, MG via Mercedes  wrote:

It may depend on what kind of can lights they are. Some are made to be 
installed from below through the hole that they will sit in. Maybe you will be 
lucky and find that that is what you have. Or grab the wire to the light or 
ventilation fan through the hole for the new fan and if there is enough slack 
you can run it into the box for the new fan and not even bother with touching 
the original box. You were planning to have a junction box on the new fan right 
or is it some new thing that doesn't require one? It's been a few years since I 
last installed a ceiling fan.

MG

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I didn’t elaborate on the ceiling fan, but it’s a Hunter that runs off a remote 
for everything - light and fan, dimmer and speeds. So I just need power to it 
all the time and nothing else. That’s why I was saying it could easily be on 
the light circuit as any time the lights are off the fan wouldn’t be in use 
anyway.
At this point it’s more of a matter to see if I can get to the junction boxes 
on either the ventilation fan or can lights. If I can get that resolved I can 
do the remote thing to control the ventilation fan. It’s only a foot or two 
away in the ceiling so there’s even the chance I could cut the hole for the fan 
support and get a hand up there to access the junction box. I can do the remote 
thingy from inside the fan enclosure.
Hmm.
-D

On Mar 22, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Yeah that’s probably more what it is. I have these fans that I put in, they’re switched but a little RF remote works the light and fan operation. I know there are similar things for lights. So you could leave the power on at the wall switch then turn the fan or light on with their respective remotes. 
There are those Alexa and google lights too but they need WiFi to make the lights work. 
--FT

Sent from iPhone


On Mar 22, 2020, at 11:55 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
wrote:

"Remote switch" is really a relay. "Alexa turn on the fan" there are a variety 
out there...
-Curt

 On Sunday, March 22, 2020, 11:50:07 AM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  wrote:  
Example? Not sure what you mean by “remote switches”.


-D


On Mar 22, 2020, at 11:47 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Get some remote switches, you can leave the power on constantly but switch the 
fixture

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Mar 22, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
wrote:

So here’s the deal:

I want to install a ceiling fan on the ceiling of our master bathroom. The roof 
pitch over this part of the house makes it nearly impossible for me to access 
the area from above. On opposite sides of the bathroom are sink/counter areas 
with can lights in the ceiling. There is also a ventilation fan in the ceiling 
as well.

My initial thought was to connect up to one of the can lights (they are 
controlled together by the same switch) and just run the ceiling fan off of 
their circuit. It’s highly unlikely that the ceiling fan would be needed if the 
lights are off. But - since these are can lights the junction boxes are on the 
outsides of the fixtures, meaning I can’t get to the junction boxes from below 
because the fixtures were installed from the attic space. At least I believe 
that to be the case, that I couldn’t dismantle the fixtures from below and drop 
them out the opening. I can probably snake a wire across the ceiling from one 
of the can lights to the location where the fan would be installed.

The alternative is to utilize the same feed to the ventilation fan, but that 
means it would have to be on if the ceiling fan was to operate unless I rigged 
some means of turning off the ventilation fan locally, like with a chain/pull 
switch or something like that. The proximity to the ceiling fan would probably 
make this impossible. Not an ideal situation.

Worst case scenario would be to run a feeder through the attic space (I could 
possibly get a wire from parts of the attic I can access to the ceiling of the 
bathroom) all the way back to the distribution panel, but that’s all the way on 
the opposite side of the house.

I’m 

Re: [MBZ] OT - Ceiling Fan/Electrical Quandary

[Jim Cathey via Mercedes]

> expandable rod with spikes in each end that dig into the sides of the ceiling 
> joists.

That'd probably be good for anything but a Hunter Original, which weighs 50#.
By far my favorite fan, ever.  We have two.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT - Ceiling Fan/Electrical Quandary

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

That may be my approach. The (ventilation) fan isn’t far from where the ceiling 
fan will go.

As for a junction box, I’m using one of the retrofit fan brace/junction box 
setups to hang the fan. They’re an expandable rod with spikes in each end that 
dig into the sides of the ceiling joists.The junction box clamps onto the rod 
to secure it. I’ve used them before to retrofit ceiling fans and they work 
quite well.

https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Raco-936-Ceiling-Fan-Support/dp/B000HEIYHA 


-D


> On Mar 24, 2020, at 9:42 AM, MG via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> It may depend on what kind of can lights they are. Some are made to be 
> installed from below through the hole that they will sit in. Maybe you will 
> be lucky and find that that is what you have. Or grab the wire to the light 
> or ventilation fan through the hole for the new fan and if there is enough 
> slack you can run it into the box for the new fan and not even bother with 
> touching the original box. You were planning to have a junction box on the 
> new fan right or is it some new thing that doesn't require one? It's been a 
> few years since I last installed a ceiling fan.
> 
> MG
> 
> Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
>> I didn’t elaborate on the ceiling fan, but it’s a Hunter that runs off a 
>> remote for everything - light and fan, dimmer and speeds. So I just need 
>> power to it all the time and nothing else. That’s why I was saying it could 
>> easily be on the light circuit as any time the lights are off the fan 
>> wouldn’t be in use anyway.
>> At this point it’s more of a matter to see if I can get to the junction 
>> boxes on either the ventilation fan or can lights. If I can get that 
>> resolved I can do the remote thing to control the ventilation fan. It’s only 
>> a foot or two away in the ceiling so there’s even the chance I could cut the 
>> hole for the fan support and get a hand up there to access the junction box. 
>> I can do the remote thingy from inside the fan enclosure.
>> Hmm.
>> -D
>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Yeah that’s probably more what it is. I have these fans that I put in, 
>>> they’re switched but a little RF remote works the light and fan operation. 
>>> I know there are similar things for lights. So you could leave the power on 
>>> at the wall switch then turn the fan or light on with their respective 
>>> remotes. 
>>> There are those Alexa and google lights too but they need WiFi to make the 
>>> lights work. 
>>> --FT
>>> Sent from iPhone
>>> 
 On Mar 22, 2020, at 11:55 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
  wrote:
 
 "Remote switch" is really a relay. "Alexa turn on the fan" there are a 
 variety out there...
 -Curt
 
  On Sunday, March 22, 2020, 11:50:07 AM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
  wrote:  
 Example? Not sure what you mean by “remote switches”.
 
 -D
 
> On Mar 22, 2020, at 11:47 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Get some remote switches, you can leave the power on constantly but 
> switch the fixture
> 
> --FT
> Sent from iPhone
> 
>>> On Mar 22, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>> So here’s the deal:
>> 
>> I want to install a ceiling fan on the ceiling of our master bathroom. 
>> The roof pitch over this part of the house makes it nearly impossible 
>> for me to access the area from above. On opposite sides of the bathroom 
>> are sink/counter areas with can lights in the ceiling. There is also a 
>> ventilation fan in the ceiling as well.
>> 
>> My initial thought was to connect up to one of the can lights (they are 
>> controlled together by the same switch) and just run the ceiling fan off 
>> of their circuit. It’s highly unlikely that the ceiling fan would be 
>> needed if the lights are off. But - since these are can lights the 
>> junction boxes are on the outsides of the fixtures, meaning I can’t get 
>> to the junction boxes from below because the fixtures were installed 
>> from the attic space. At least I believe that to be the case, that I 
>> couldn’t dismantle the fixtures from below and drop them out the 
>> opening. I can probably snake a wire across the ceiling from one of the 
>> can lights to the location where the fan would be installed.
>> 
>> The alternative is to utilize the same feed to the ventilation fan, but 
>> that means it would have to be on if the ceiling fan was to operate 
>> unless I rigged some means of turning off the ventilation fan locally, 
>> like with a chain/pull switch or something like that. The proximity to 
>> the ceiling fan would probably make this impossible. Not an ideal 
>> situation.
>> 
>> Worst case scenario would be to run a feeder through the attic space (I 
>> could 

Re: [MBZ] OT - Ceiling Fan/Electrical Quandary

[MG via Mercedes]

It may depend on what kind of can lights they are. 
Some are made to be installed from below through 
the hole that they will sit in. Maybe you will be 
lucky and find that that is what you have. Or grab 
the wire to the light or ventilation fan through 
the hole for the new fan and if there is enough 
slack you can run it into the box for the new fan 
and not even bother with touching the original 
box. You were planning to have a junction box on 
the new fan right or is it some new thing that 
doesn't require one? It's been a few years since I 
last installed a ceiling fan.


MG

Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

I didn’t elaborate on the ceiling fan, but it’s a Hunter that runs off a remote 
for everything - light and fan, dimmer and speeds. So I just need power to it 
all the time and nothing else. That’s why I was saying it could easily be on 
the light circuit as any time the lights are off the fan wouldn’t be in use 
anyway.

At this point it’s more of a matter to see if I can get to the junction boxes 
on either the ventilation fan or can lights. If I can get that resolved I can 
do the remote thing to control the ventilation fan. It’s only a foot or two 
away in the ceiling so there’s even the chance I could cut the hole for the fan 
support and get a hand up there to access the junction box. I can do the remote 
thingy from inside the fan enclosure.

Hmm.

-D


On Mar 22, 2020, at 3:32 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Yeah that’s probably more what it is. I have these fans that I put in, they’re switched but a little RF remote works the light and fan operation. I know there are similar things for lights. So you could leave the power on at the wall switch then turn the fan or light on with their respective remotes. 

There are those Alexa and google lights too but they need WiFi to make the lights work. 


--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Mar 22, 2020, at 11:55 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
wrote:

 "Remote switch" is really a relay. "Alexa turn on the fan" there are a variety 
out there...
-Curt

  On Sunday, March 22, 2020, 11:50:07 AM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  wrote:  


Example? Not sure what you mean by “remote switches”.

-D


On Mar 22, 2020, at 11:47 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:

Get some remote switches, you can leave the power on constantly but switch the 
fixture

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Mar 22, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
wrote:

So here’s the deal:

I want to install a ceiling fan on the ceiling of our master bathroom. The roof 
pitch over this part of the house makes it nearly impossible for me to access 
the area from above. On opposite sides of the bathroom are sink/counter areas 
with can lights in the ceiling. There is also a ventilation fan in the ceiling 
as well.

My initial thought was to connect up to one of the can lights (they are 
controlled together by the same switch) and just run the ceiling fan off of 
their circuit. It’s highly unlikely that the ceiling fan would be needed if the 
lights are off. But - since these are can lights the junction boxes are on the 
outsides of the fixtures, meaning I can’t get to the junction boxes from below 
because the fixtures were installed from the attic space. At least I believe 
that to be the case, that I couldn’t dismantle the fixtures from below and drop 
them out the opening. I can probably snake a wire across the ceiling from one 
of the can lights to the location where the fan would be installed.

The alternative is to utilize the same feed to the ventilation fan, but that 
means it would have to be on if the ceiling fan was to operate unless I rigged 
some means of turning off the ventilation fan locally, like with a chain/pull 
switch or something like that. The proximity to the ceiling fan would probably 
make this impossible. Not an ideal situation.

Worst case scenario would be to run a feeder through the attic space (I could 
possibly get a wire from parts of the attic I can access to the ceiling of the 
bathroom) all the way back to the distribution panel, but that’s all the way on 
the opposite side of the house.

I’m looking for ideas here. This is a pretty creative bunch, help me identify a 
solution I have’t yet thought of.

Thanks!

-D
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[MBZ] One for AZ Bob

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/d/phoenix-1991-mercedes-benz-420sel/7097119471.html
 


I wonder if the timing chain has been done?

-D
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Re: [MBZ] Darwin Awards???

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

Given their ages they probably passed along their genes already 

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Mar 24, 2020, at 6:24 AM, archer75--- via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A man died after ingesting an additive used to clean fish tanks — which 
> included a pharmaceutical drug touted by President Trump and others as a 
> potential coronavirus cure.
> 
> Within 30 minutes of taking chloroquine phosphate, the man in his 60s 
> experienced “immediate effects” and had to be admitted to a nearby Banner 
> Health hospital, the medical system in Arizona said in a press release Monday.
> 
> His wife, also in her 60s, is in critical condition after taking the 
> additive, which is used in aquariums to kill some organisms, like algae, that 
> may harm fish.
> 
> The man’s wife told NBC News she’d watched press briefings where Trump talked 
> about the potential benefits of chloroquine — and she recalled the name from 
> the treatment she used on her koi fish.
> 
> “I saw it sitting on the back shelf and thought, ‘Hey, isn’t that the stuff 
> they’re talking about on TV?,'” she told the outlet on the condition of 
> anonymity.
> 
> The couple mixed a small amount of their fish treatment with a liquid and 
> drank it as a way to prevent the coronavirus, she said.
> 
> “We were afraid of getting sick.”
> 
> Within 20 minutes, both became ill, at first feeling “dizzy and hot.”
> 
> Then, “I started vomiting,” the woman told the outlet. “My husband started 
> developing respiratory problems and wanted to hold my hand.”
> 
> Her husband died shortly after arriving to the hospital.
> 
> The cleaning agent ingested by the couple has the same active ingredient as 
> the anti-malaria medicine chloroquine but is formulated differently.
> 
> Prices of the product on eBay skyrocketed after some studies found that the 
> pharmaceutical version, the anti-malarial drug chloroquine, and a derivative 
> of it called hydroxychloroquine, were effective in killing the virus in 
> laboratory experiments.
> 
> Trump said last week the drug would soon begin to be distributed to treat 
> some coronavirus patients. FDA Commissioner Stephen Hahn clarified that the 
> drug would be made available as part of a clinical trial.
> see also
> Old malaria drug may help cure coronavirus
> 
> Officials warned people not to take the drugs to treat coronavirus symptoms 
> unless it has been specifically prescribed by their doctor.
> 
> “The last thing that we want right now is to inundate our emergency 
> departments with patients who believe they found a vague and risky solution 
> that could potentially jeopardize their health,” said Dr. Daniel Brooks, 
> medical director of the Banner Poison and Drug Information Center.
> 
> Chloroquine is especially not recommended for use by non-hospitalized 
> patients.
> 
> “We are strongly urging the medical community to not prescribe this 
> medication to any non-hospitalized patients,” Brooks said.
> 
> https://nypost.com/2020/03/23/man-dies-after-self-medicating-with-chloroquine-phosphate-to-treat-coronavirus/
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

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Re: [MBZ] OT what could go wrong

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

I’ve watched some of those youtubers from that guy Tavarish who bought a really 
cheap Bentley thst turns out to have spent time in Russia, had a blown engine 
or something.  He sourced another one but the complexity of the thing was 
incredible. Apparently the vacuum lines go bad in them which seems to require 
dismantling half the car to replace them. 

--FT
Sent from iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2020, at 8:35 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> The key phrase here is “engine out service”. Can’t imagine what that cost.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Mar 23, 2020, at 6:48 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> with a 15yo cheap CGT?
>> 
>> https://bringatrailer.com/listing/2005-bentley-continental-gt-25/
>> 
>> -- 
>> --FT
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
> 
> 
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 

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[MBZ] Darwin Awards???

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

A man died after ingesting an additive used to clean fish tanks — which 
included a pharmaceutical drug touted by President Trump and others as a 
potential coronavirus cure.

Within 30 minutes of taking chloroquine phosphate, the man in his 60s 
experienced “immediate effects” and had to be admitted to a nearby Banner 
Health hospital, the medical system in Arizona said in a press release Monday.

His wife, also in her 60s, is in critical condition after taking the additive, 
which is used in aquariums to kill some organisms, like algae, that may harm 
fish.

The man’s wife told NBC News she’d watched press briefings where Trump talked 
about the potential benefits of chloroquine — and she recalled the name from 
the treatment she used on her koi fish.

“I saw it sitting on the back shelf and thought, ‘Hey, isn’t that the stuff 
they’re talking about on TV?,'” she told the outlet on the condition of 
anonymity.

The couple mixed a small amount of their fish treatment with a liquid and drank 
it as a way to prevent the coronavirus, she said.

“We were afraid of getting sick.”

Within 20 minutes, both became ill, at first feeling “dizzy and hot.”

Then, “I started vomiting,” the woman told the outlet. “My husband started 
developing respiratory problems and wanted to hold my hand.”

Her husband died shortly after arriving to the hospital.

The cleaning agent ingested by the couple has the same active ingredient as the 
anti-malaria medicine chloroquine but is formulated differently.

Prices of the product on eBay skyrocketed after some studies found that the 
pharmaceutical version, the anti-malarial drug chloroquine, and a derivative of 
it called hydroxychloroquine, were effective in killing the virus in laboratory 
experiments.

Trump said last week the drug would soon begin to be distributed to treat some 
coronavirus patients. FDA Commissioner Stephen Hahn clarified that the drug 
would be made available as part of a clinical trial.
see also
Old malaria drug may help cure coronavirus

Officials warned people not to take the drugs to treat coronavirus symptoms 
unless it has been specifically prescribed by their doctor.

“The last thing that we want right now is to inundate our emergency departments 
with patients who believe they found a vague and risky solution that could 
potentially jeopardize their health,” said Dr. Daniel Brooks, medical director 
of the Banner Poison and Drug Information Center.

Chloroquine is especially not recommended for use by non-hospitalized patients.

“We are strongly urging the medical community to not prescribe this medication 
to any non-hospitalized patients,” Brooks said.

https://nypost.com/2020/03/23/man-dies-after-self-medicating-with-chloroquine-phosphate-to-treat-coronavirus/

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Re: [MBZ] OT isolation.

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

Dan says:

> Never forget - HR is *not* your friend.

"I'm from HR. We're not happy until you're not happy."

Rick
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