On 1/22/2011 9:48 PM, OK Don wrote:
Also - I measured current with the ignition switch off - it showed periodic
(q 2-3 second) drains of 200 to 250 mA. that didn't last but a fraction of a
second.
That's where your problem is. Start pulling fuses until that stops and
go from there!
John
On 10/17/2010 10:23 AM, Bob Rentfro wrote:
not to hijack your thread, but what do you suggest I do with my car?
Remember, I live in a neighborhood with an HOAI can't be parting it out
in the frount yard.
Put it on craigslist for $100?
___
On 9/9/2010 9:08 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
To my mind that is every bit as esthetically appealing as a squashed toad.
I agree! However, I was driven around in one when I was at a dealership
a while back, and they are HUGE inside. HUGE I tell ya!
John
On 9/9/2010 9:53 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
Like a Chrysler minivan?
Probably.
John
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On 7/16/2010 1:50 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
What's the earliest year that MB used R134A refrigerant from the
factory for north america? Were there any issues early that were
resolved in later years?
My old '92 300D had r134 from the factory. No issues that I know of!
John
My brother bought Kaleb's Uncle's 500SE. We've played around with it
for a little bit, but we've decided to get rid of it. Greg went and
joined the Navy, and I need to get rid of the amount of stuff I have
in case I move across country.
1983 500SE Euro, green on green, cloth seats, manual
On 7/6/2010 2:33 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
Cylinder
1- 220-225
2- 220
3- 200
4- 210
5- 230
My mechanic says the readings are way too low to allow the engine to start
in cold temps due to worn rings. He says a new engine rates at 400, and
that 275 is the absolute limit. Any comments?
On 7/6/2010 3:38 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
How would one confirm leaky testing?
Don't risk it and assume junk engine or stuck rings?
John
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Just found out I have until August 15th. Yay.
John
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Computer Engineer
I've only been working full time for 3 years now, but I have five semesters of
co-op and about two years of undergrad research. So I don't have a significant
amount of specialization at the moment, but I like to think I'm not the typical
fresh college grad either.
I've
On 6/24/2010 6:42 PM, John Reames wrote:
Gotta hate 'em.
(sitting in a parking lot... When I needed to turn the wheel 100
degrees to go straight, I decided to call for a tow... At that point
inspection finally revealed a separation at the back of the
hangars...)
Ouch You going to get it
On 6/11/2010 1:05 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
I only use OE or OEM radiator hoses. They are still noticeably better
than any third party hoses.
I only use OE (with the star on it, came from a dealership) coolant
hoses. I have noticed the ones with the star on it are better than the
OEM ones...
On 6/7/2010 10:31 AM, R A Bennell wrote:
I think so. I have not been there in many years but I recall a real German WWII
submarine that one can go through.
Also a coal mine. Go to the top floor and take the mine elevator down into the
basement or whatever and it is a
replica of an old coal
On 4/25/2010 6:55 PM, OK Don wrote:
Not yet - just finished the job an hour ago.
I would get it aligned before worrying about anything else. An alignment
can make a HUGE difference on these cars. Be sure to get it aligned at
an MB dealer unless you know of a shop that can do proper 4 wheel
On 4/8/2010 10:08 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:
And don't forget 2 of pine pollen on the cars every morning.
Ugh Don't remind me!
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On 4/5/2010 9:09 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:
Read the special dude. It is a COMPLETE kit. $199.00.
Are they legit OEM parts or no-name brand?
John
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On 4/5/2010 9:42 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:
They are legit no name brand. I have sold hundreds of them with no
issues. $199.00 versus $510.76 Lemforder.
Very, very tempting. Will need to look into Sportline upgrades, which
are obviously not going to be covered by your special. ;) I think the
On 3/5/2010 6:44 PM, B Dike wrote:
The IP governor diaphragm leaks...it doesn' t hold a vacuum like the
other IP. So I assume the torn diaphragm is causing the air leak and
starting problem.
An air leak sounds reasonable for what you've talked about, but the
shutoff vacuum actuator isn't the
On 2/25/2010 6:10 AM, LarryT wrote:
So far these engines are proven trouble free - correct? Seems like every
new model that comes out leaves the factory with some built in problems
- hopefully none crop up.
Yep. Trouble free for everyone else from what I've heard. Keep in mind
that the 61x
LarryT wrote:
How much of a difference did you notice with new Motor Mounts?
HUGE One of them failed completely... As in, it fell apart into two
pieces when I took it out. It was in needs to be replaced condition
for about 10k miles, but when it started to go bad, it took about a week
Peter Frederick wrote:
Check the frame bushings on the rear anti-sway bar too -- when they
get old, hard, and shrink, the bar rattles in them.
I can attest to this as well! If they get really bad it almost sounds
like metal on metal rattling.
John
___
On 2/17/2010 9:25 AM, Walt Zarnoch wrote:
Still not sure if I can save it, but beats the $100+ for a new one that's
got a plastic housing...
Rusty has one on his website for $88 for your model. For my 1987 300TD
it is $55. The only difference is the 78's electrical connector is on a
On 2/16/2010 3:09 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
Seemslike a lot of miles for $22k:
http://jxn.craigslist.org/ctd/1587657336.html
Unless the CDI market has recovered from the last time I looked (when
the stock market went sour), it's too expensive. If it had ventilated
seats, Sirius, HID
Bought the CDI with 67k in April of 2008, and I'm now up to 107k! This
year I didn't put as many miles on it as I did last year, but that's
changed since I just recently started dating a gal in Tuscaloosa (1.5
drive). With a weeknight and weekend visit that's 350 miles a week...
It's amazing
On 2/16/2010 3:39 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
For some reason, I was thinking the V6 came out in 2006.
I take it the original tires were H-rated?
IIRC, the V6 came out in 2007. I believe so. That's what I have on
there now at least!
John
___
On 2/16/2010 3:48 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:
Is that speedo some kind of German redundant display thing, just in case
one of them fails to work?
There are a bunch of other things you can display there, but I put it to
speedo for the video just to make things easier to read for an exact
number.
If the car has the jack stand pads I use the factory jack to raise the
car, and place the jack stand underneath the pad. I actually like the
factory jack... so long as there are jack stands involved as well!!
My CDI doesn't have the normal jack holes, and I haven't found a good
way to jack
On 2/1/2010 11:30 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
I would be afraid of using the factory jack if I lived in a place
where the roads get salted---I've seen pictures of rust that started
in the back of the jack hole and worked its way out, rotting the sill.
If you use the jack hole and it screws up
Curt, I hope all goes well and that you have a speedy recovery!!!
On 1/27/2010 3:41 AM, Peter T. Arnold wrote:
What is to be learned is that you do have cardiac disease, it is
treatable, it will comeback. Your mission is to take note and not deny
it when it returns. That will tend to keep
On 1/26/2010 10:24 PM, WILTON wrote:
Not very well!
x2!
John
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Saw this for sale on another list really pricey, but it is pretty
rare. I didn't even know this was possible with the OM603.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1362534-1989-300tdt-4matic-wagon-sale.html
John
___
On 1/22/2010 1:27 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
terrible 17 head.
The #14 is the bad one #17 is good.
John
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Thought some of you might like this for your non-MB purchases...
http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/hot-deals/370308/
John
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On 1/8/2010 3:00 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:
That qualifies as all over the place and I know for a fact that my
long-gone 123's injectors were evenly matched.
5 bar is the MB specified tolerance
John
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Some stupid kids decided it would be fun to throw rocks at my CDI... So
now there is a fist sized dent in the door, and some gouges inside the
dent. Kids got away before my brother (who was borrowing the car) could
catch them.
So now I get to make a comprehensive claim! Yay! *rolls eyes*
On 1/6/2010 9:41 AM, pm7...@comcast.net wrote:
How big was this rock? Did it have a name as in Plymouth Rock?
There is a fist sized dent... it wasn't some little itty bitty rock.
Need a new door? Was the one on the car 'new'? You expectations are
too high, you are supposed to be 'made
On 1/6/2010 10:20 AM, pm7...@comcast.net wrote:
A GOOD body shop would not put a bunch of bondo on your door. BTW,
the factory uses such leveling components during their production
also.
The problem if finding a good shop! Yep, they just don't slop it on as
thick as this dent ;)
That all
On 1/6/2010 2:38 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:
Look, you are going about this bass-ackwards. If you have chosen a
body shop that can do the job that you require, get an estimate from
them FIRST
This is why I was asking!! ;) The only problem is the body shop I want
to use is two hours away (the
On 1/6/2010 3:50 PM, Rolf wrote:
There are aftermarkets on ebay for $20-30. I mean its not OEM but would
do the trick.
What he said and they'll probably work better!
John
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We're talking about an oil separator Gary not exactly any high
voltage or moving parts here.
On 1/6/2010 4:43 PM, Gary Hurst wrote:
there is some cheap aftermarket stuff that just works great and offers
legitimate value. and then there is cheap aftermarket that is just junk.
Jaime Kopchinski wrote:
So, my conclusion about these knock-offs: If you don't care about how they
light up the road so much as how they look, then buy em! I'm sure they're
not that bad. And they're probably better than the 20 year old euro-lights
you'll get off eBay in germany that should
Allan Streib wrote:
So why do so many of the cars I see with projector lights absolutely
blind me with glare at night, whilst conventional headlights do not?
I'm not sure... All those blue/purple/etc lights you see are in
reflector housings. Is the glare you seeing coming off the road
On 12/18/2009 8:33 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:
Glass lenses not plastic. No replacements, just buy a new assembly. As
John Robbins can attest to, new Bosch lenses are just as expensive as
these assemblies.
Indeed! My housings have vacuum leveling at least. I just bought
projector headlights
Easy now! ;) And... No. Those will never be on any of my cars.
On 12/18/2009 10:40 AM, Rich Thomas wrote:
Do they come with the blue LEDs for your windshield wipers?
--R
John Robbins wrote:
On 12/18/2009 8:33 AM, Rusty Cullens wrote:
Glass lenses not plastic. No replacements, just buy
On 12/18/2009 12:22 PM, E M wrote:
I don't know who Stern is, but I do know design of a headlight is a real
science, and takes a lot of time and investment. I seem to recall an
article on the development of Porsche headlights from an old club mag,
Pano. Mercedes I'm sure devote every bit as
On 12/16/2009 3:52 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
TYC? Hella?
I just called and he said they were aftermarket... not the Bosch/Hella
OE units.
John
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Donald Snook wrote:
How has the urea injection thing worked out? Is that something you
have to refill every once in a while? Where you do get the stuff? How
does it work? Inquiring minds want to know.
If you get a 2005 or 2006 you don't have that system. :) It is only the
BlueTec 2007+
John Freer wrote:
You actually have two batteries and the one on my 05 CDI which
services the accessories went out at 50K and 4 years, still under
warranty.
Yep, according to the manual, the error message I'm seeing can be caused
by three things: alternator, battery control module, or
On 12/11/2009 9:07 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
I don't get that. Plastic ratchet pawls and/or sectors in a highly
stressed and important area? Those ratchets usually see a few hundred
pounds of force.
I don't get it either... If nothing else, it should be a more
substantial piece of plastic than
I dunno about that ;)
On 12/9/2009 5:20 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
seems like its time to retire it to okie acres.
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LarryT wrote:
Thx Ed - appreciate you keeping us aware of new MBs. My only problem, I
feel cars should be judged after they have 100K miles or so on them
before making any judgements about quality.
My 2005 CDI has 101k on it. Still drives fantastic! :) The fit and
finish is still
LarryT wrote:
When you say, to the top do you mean the top/Hot mark ? Or to the top
of the filler neck? There are 2 lines on the
side of the Exp Tk. - one for Low/Cold and another for High/Hot levels.
I filled it to the filler neck. Here are some videos...
All,
When I fill my expansion tank to the top, I see a steady stream of
bubbles coming out of the little hose that goes across the radiator.
However, I don't seem to be using any coolant (only driven the car 800
or so miles), have coolant in the oil, or oil in the coolant. When cold
Donald Snook wrote:
Oxford, Mississippi is a great little College/University town.
Starkville, MS is also pretty decent! I'm biased though ;)
John
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SteveB wrote:
Is there a chance you did not loose any antifreeze, but it went into
the overflow chamber located inside the fender well? There is a tube that
goes from the plastic fill tank toward the battery and then down to this
chamber.
Unfortunately, the coolant was on the ground. :(
John
relng...@aol.com wrote:
Fatal to pets. Wash it away.
Yep. It's also raining today as well, so all is well.
John
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Here are two videos of the bubbles
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYcg8uUoG5I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pARyVwRha6Q
John
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Jim Cathey wrote:
So, have they solved the 20% per year (independent
of charge/discharge cycles) capacity loss that was
inherent in LiON batteries? Or, like for phones and
computers, do they just disregard this and hope you
don't notice?
Battery technology is ever advancing there are
Tim C wrote:
I think you all found the answer with the tires,
which were replaced around that time.
Victory!
IMHO, I think stickier tires that have better handling (and thus better
accident avoidance) with more rolling resistance are worth the trade off
in mileage.
John
Peter Frederick wrote:
I personally think the rod bending problem is only partially the
rods. I've had the head off three of these things recently, and in
every case there is some evidence of excessive oil in #1. There is a
known failure mode of the head gasket at the oil passage across the
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I am about to keep both of your new parts business off the list.
Wouldn't bother me a bit.
John
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Curt Raymond wrote:
Put a 617 in it with the crazy Finn tweaks and be done with it...
All their crazy tweaks are done on OM60x engines though. Now it is
mostly the 4-valve OM605 and OM606.
John
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dave walton wrote:
Today is the anniversary of Rosa Park's refusal to give her seat on a
public bus to some white racist.
And she did not whine about it.
Well said!
John
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Frederick W Moir wrote:
Six rods because the remaining ones are flawed.
Depending on what you're wanting to get out of the engine... and how
cheap you are, you could get another bad rodbender engine for cheap, and
take one of the good rods/pistons out of it. You'll have the older
style rod
Tim C wrote:
Because of the CVT I can't drive it flat-out
Why not? Just because it isn't at a high RPM doesn't mean you aren't
cleaning it out. You're still making power, which makes heat, which in
theory is what cleans things out in the diesels at least. As others
have said modern gas
Curt Raymond wrote:
Pretty sure they did a 617 at one point. Wasn't the powerhouse the
newer engines are but quite respectable...
They did indeed There's only one I know about, and it had a big
turbo with a supercharger as well. The only thing anybody in the states
knows about it comes
Mitch Haley wrote:
What was that green thing with OM617 and intercooler on top of the valve
cover, W114, W115? I don't think it was a W123.
I remember a W115 (I think) that had an intercooler instead of a hood.
There was also a fellow here in the states that had a ducted intercooler
on top
It probably uses an SDHC card instead of a normal SD card. If you want
it as a drive letter you'll need to get an SDHC card reader (normal SD
ones don't support the high capacity format for some reason).
John
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
For work, I had a Nikon D40 I used, and when plugged into
Allan Streib wrote:
This list was formed from the defunct DIESEL list at mbz.org when it had its
last and final meltdown.
It was not named diesel as other lists from mbz.org were invited here also.
At least that's how I remember it.
That's how I remember it as well
Mitch Haley wrote:
There are a couple of threads I wish I'd saved off.
No kidding!!! There was a fantastic one about rebuilding the W124
suspension with all Sportline components.
If someone will give me the database I'll get it hosted. Seriously.
I've been meaning to get a domain for a
LarryT wrote:
I was wondering if anyone knows how long they usually last? I would
have though they would last longer than 100K.
One of the mounts in the CDI only made it to 85-90k. When it went bad
it went bad *fast*. Within 1,000 miles it went from a shudder at
shut-off to bouncing off
Mitch!!
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=264312
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ned kleinhenz wrote:
Right now, the top of the FI pump below where the injector lines are
attached, are leaking. And Rusty has a good price on FI pumps. So I am
considering replacing it. I already have a few of the special timing tools
for adjusting this pump, and I am not afraid of removing
Gary Hurst wrote:
my biggest question would be whether the non benz hoses you have are
actually OEM.
Good point, they are whatever you/Rusty sell...
John
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Mitch Haley wrote:
Dave's pics are obviously of a Hengst built MBZ filter and a Mahle
filter. I just went to my box of filters and pulled out a Hengst that I
bought from Rusty. It looks identical to the MBZ filter in Dave's pic,
right down to the blue surround on the paper element.
LarryT wrote:
So, am I wrong with the above?
Nope! Well, at least that's how I understand it
as well. ;)
John
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Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
well this car had the contacts on the regulator worn almost completely
down, so I swapped in another one but still not charging. I do know
when the key is turned on, non of the lights light up on the dash.
IIRC, if the alternator lightbulb is out, it won't have the
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
Now that is a good idea. The turbo 606 should make even a 5000+ lb
W140 get up and go.
Unfortunately, you need to have all the electronics to get that extra
horsepower. If you convert it to a mechanical injection pump, you'll
only have as much horsepower as the car
Craig McCluskey wrote:
http://www.124performance.com/docs/general/tire_gauges_MCN_test.pdf
along with a lot of information about oil, tools, glow plugs, and other
things.
His website is an absolutely amazing resource!!! I'm glad there are
folks like him out there in our community. He's a
Gary Hurst wrote:
btw, to some extent this is the exact same case as if you bought genuine
mercedes as mercedes is also mostly just a marketing box. the presumption
that you are getting the best by going genuine grows more and more suspect
for me by the moment although there are still many out
Craig McCluskey wrote:
How many miles did it have when you bought it? How long ago was that?
Bought it with 67k in April of 2008. :-)
John
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Mitch Haley wrote:
That 250 blutech might be cost prohibitive, but how much power does a
220cdi make, and were they ever sold in USA or Canada?
Never sold in the US. No idea about Canada.
The article says 204HP and 368lb/ft of torque. That is the same as my
E320 CDI!!! I read about that
Is there going to be a replacement to the IM thing you had going?
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Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:
I also like the wiring kits they have there, I wonder if they are
equivalent to the MB kits that have a little light for the instrument
panel.
Little light for the instrument panel? Could you elaborate a bit? The
wiring harness I have
Peter Hertzing wrote:
Where did you find the hitch. I have a 2200 pound popup that I would like
to pull with me 95 E320 but have never been able to find the hitch.
I found mine on PeachParts. You just have to be lucky/patient and wait
for one to pop up sometime. You can also search on
Allan Streib wrote:
Well that's not the only reason for trailer brakes. The mass of the
trailer means a lot of momentum, which pushes on the back end of your
car when you stop. If the roads are wet, or worse icy, or you're on
gravel, etc. you will have a tendency to fishtail or jacknife even
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-trade-wanted-items/
http://mbca.cartama.net/forumdisplay.php?f=7
Very little traffic, but:
http://www.superturbodiesel.com/std/fs-wtb-f-8.html
Mitch Haley wrote:
I don't know if they have a classified section, but what about
Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:
What is your source for the 2100kg?
Errr... I don't exactly remember. I believe it is from the below site,
but it is down right now so I can't verify. I do remember that it was
only for wagons, and you had to have a different radiator
tyler wrote:
What is the factory rated towing capacity?
In Europe it's 750kg without trailer brakes, 2100kg with. Sedans are
1500kg with brakes. In the US... 0 kg. No chassis/brake/driveline
differences that anybody knows about so I would roll with the European
ratings.
Does anyone know
pm7...@comcast.net wrote:
I'm driving 65 MPH, look in my mirror to change lanes, there's a bike
about 500 feet behind me. I pull in front, holy crap, he screams by
me going about 120!
This is normal in Germany... I was cruising along at 130mph in the fast
lane, and nobody ever pulled out in
R A Bennell wrote:
I bought my 115 300D in July 05, so again 4 years ago. I only drive
it in the summer and I have put about 11000 miles on it so far. I
bought some bits and pieces from Rusty, but most of them have not yet
been installed - new belts, glow plugs, filters etc. I have trouble
Fmiser wrote:
I have enjoyed seeing friends mimosa trees, so I'm thinking of
adding one or two to my yard.
Beware that many people consider them weed trees since they grow so fast
and proliferate pretty quickly, which is probably why Rich said to not
get one.
Are there hidden pains,
harry watkins wrote:
They are great trees and I love them, however, we had a problem with
them. I think it was the mid eighties when a disease hit in the area and
wiped them out. I don't think I could find one even though its been
about thirty years.
I've got two in my backyard, and I think
LarryT wrote:
I created a Free account last year and used it once in a while. Was
trying to access it yesterday and was not allowed to enter. It said my
UserName as not available for renewal.
https://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/
Has anyone else noticed this? Am I reading the situation
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
you are alive?
Every so often ;)
I **finally** got the wagon on the road last night!! It is much faster
than I remembered it. Not CDI fast, but still very fast indeed. Much
faster than my 2.5T.
John
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LarryT wrote:
Sorry to have bothered you
Nonsense! You did no such thing. :-)
John
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Sunil Hari
Donald Snook wrote:
Remember the list member Sunhil? What was his last name? I am
working on a case (which I can't give you details about) and there is
a person involved named Sunhil. Just wondering,
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Fmiser wrote:
Any suggestions on a good web forum to recommend?
www.peachparts.com (formerly Mercedesshop)
They have a fairly active classified section as well.
John
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Michael Esh wrote:
Ebay # 320394783103
My son in law just picked up a 1985 300td from Munster, IN for $327.00
We will be picking it up this weekend. Engine has a knock but it looks
like the body is fairly good.
Sounds like a good deal! I like the sedan door ;-)
John
WILTON wrote:
A ridiculous styling fad that Buick introduced about 1950 - '52 still
hangs on. Buick started putting port holes (fake exhaust ports) on
the upper sides of front fenders about '50 -'52 to simulate exhaust
pipes/ports on sides of '20's Cord, Duisenberg, etc., hoods. The
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