have a choice of brands, which is better?
Thanks,
Brian
87 190D
Just pull the drain plug on the pan and the drain plug on the converter.
You really should change the filter
Marshall
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Glenn Brown wrote:
It may be a little outa' date as this Email address is from '99:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
G. M. Brown
Brevard, NC
Here's a current address for Jim
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Marshall
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?
Mobil 1 ATF works better than any other fluid I've ever tried!
Marshall
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for a long drive)..
Marshall
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the seals anyway
Not usually. Most common cause is plugged up pressure line to the ALDA
or EGR valve stuck open (makes smoke too).
Marshall
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with the acutely
pointed tips that is needed to unlock the tumbler? Seems pretty self
explanatory to me (but I'm not sure it was the first time I tried to
remove a cylinder).
Marshall
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oil will gum up the world!
Marshall
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to get rid of the
smell? The oil by the way has pretty much dripped out of the pad by now.
Replace the pad!
Marshall
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lug and
a lubricated one. The bulk of the friction is on the seat and NOT the
threads. Mercedes allows anti-seize on the threads but NOT on the seat.
Thats why I use paraffin wax.
Marshall
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on the clock.
Both '84 and '85 380 engines had the double row chain. US delivered '81
thru '83 380 engines had a single row chain. The rest of the world got
double row chains in those years.
Marshall
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the symptoms appeared?
Marshall
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the evaporator.
Marshall
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Marshall Booth wrote:
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
On 7/20/07, LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
123 and 126 chassis.
The device I was describing is the compressor cut-out
switch, which uses a thermal switch to shut off the
compressor when the evaporator temperature drops below
a preset
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
On 7/17/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Are you suggesting that ALL the tools from a specific country are of the
same quality?
Of course not! I don't pretend to have anything other than anecdotal
evidence, but I have noticed that there seems
A leaf blower and a fire hose!
Marshall
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!
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-ft = 15 Nm. That's backwards, 20 Nm = 15 lb-ft.
Overtighten it and it stretches and it will NEVER seal.
Marshall
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forging techniques and better quality control meant that
the U.S.-made wrench would be less likely to round off a bolt or nut.
Are you suggesting that ALL the tools from a specific country are of the
same quality?
Marshall
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. If it were camber knocked
out, the wear would usually be on the bad side.
Marshall
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Marshall Booth wrote:
Allan Streib wrote:
Changed oil (back to M1 after a couple of changes of Delo, M1 having
been hard to find locally for a while, but Wal-Mart had the five quart
jugs of 15W-50 on sale today). Also changed fuel filters, and rotated
tires this afternoon, trying to get a bit
Allan Streib wrote:
Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I forgot the brake support bushings, but Peter reminded me :-)
Are these brake supports also known as track rods? They are one of
my suspects for a creaking or popping noise that seems to be right on
the firewall.
YES
LarryT wrote:
Too much toe out -- need a front end alignment - normally done as a 4 wheel
alignment --
Too much toe out wears the INSIDE edges - not the outside edges. Too
much toe in wears the outside edge. Worn tie rod(s) can wear either (or
both).
Marshall
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takes hitting the curb ONCE when parking to bend/twist a rim.
Marshall
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Allan Streib wrote:
Yeah, but three tires? They said two wheels were significantly bent
and a third was slightly bent.
It only takes hittinng the curb once every four months to have 3 bent
wheels in a year!
Marshall
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Univ of Pittsburgh School
conditions. The ONLY
test that's reliable is putting the head on and getting the engine up to
near coolant boiling temperature.
Marshall
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old and still don't leak.
Marshall
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Allan Streib wrote:
Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Depends on whether it's a turbo or a non turbo engine.
Turbo. My '83 300D
Intake 0.1 mm (0.004) or if temps below 0 F are anticipated 0.15 mm
(0.006).
Exhaust (turbo) 0.35 mm (0.014) non-turbo 0.3 mm (0.012).
So, 0.10
Auto Zone 12 mm 1/2 hex
and never needed to remove the fan clutch (or the fan).
Marshall
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old.
Marshall
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for a most highway driven cars that are serviced in a timely
manner at proscribed intervals.
Marshall
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I have NOT been pleased with any Contis I've tried in the last 20 years.
They don't last and their traction on light snow in NIL.
Marshall
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modifications it could run
the car. It got 30 mpg at a steady 35 mph - compared to 33 mpg with
dino.
That exactly the what straight Veggie/Bio should deliver. It has 10%
less energy so should deliver 10% less economy - and it does.
Marshall
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overheating then there is SOMETHING other than
the fan clutch that's wrong.
Marshall
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that is the case in the '85 190D), then there WILL be 12V on
both pins except when the switch is closed. Then there will be 12+V on
one pin and less than 1 V on the other.
Marshall
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are using. Are the cylinders all about the same?
I've almost NEVER found a compression test on Mercedes diesels to be
worth the effort. If the car starts well cold, that's about the best
test there is.
Marshall
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be much exaggerated when
cold). If the damper to the injection pump linkage isn't present or has
worn out there can be a shudder when starting out, especially when cold.
Marshall
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the results of carbon
buildup.
Marshall
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Marshall Booth wrote:
The engine being cold exaggerates ANY aspect of the system that isn't
operating properly. If the injector spray pattern or pressure isn't
within the tolerable range, both power and idle smoothness will be
degraded. This may not be evident when the engine is warmed
to go into solution. It does NOTHING for oil. A
deoiling compound is required.
Mercedes lists one available in Europe. Liquid Tide works rather well
and I expect that Blue Dawn dishwashing detergent would work but I've
never tried it for that purpose.
Marshall
--
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, citric acid will cut oil and disolve
it.
Are you using a 5% solution, dry powder or a so called citric acid cleaner?
Marshall
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Luther wrote:
On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 17:49:36 -0500, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Luther wrote:
Wow, I'm going to disagree with MB's assessment of Citric Acid. I
could dip my
hands in a bucket of used diesel oil, and then rub them in dirt to
completely
get the oil worked into my
Marshall Booth wrote:
Luther wrote:
On Tue, 10 Jul 2007 17:49:36 -0500, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Luther wrote:
Wow, I'm going to disagree with MB's assessment of Citric Acid. I
could dip my
hands in a bucket of used diesel oil, and then rub them in dirt to
completely
get
and difficulty
starting. Rarely do exhausts get so far out that they impede starting,
but it can happen.
Marshall
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be removed
(that's NOT fun). I needed to replace the front O ring and to do that
the IP had to come out.
Please DO NOT use RTV to seal the IP. Get the proper gasket!
Marshall
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filter, there will be a loss
of power, but shifting will not be degraded.
Marshall
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andrew strasfogel wrote:
My son had TWO 300SDs that experienced similar radiator failures,
except that he continued to drive just a bit too long and toasted both
engines
I'll bet that both of them had green stuff in the cooling system!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
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more brittle much faster! That
and hard radiator hoses and collapsed motor/transmission mounts can put
a lot of stress on the radiator plastic parts. A cap that isn't
properly venting could increase pressure, but that a rare failure
(usually they vent too soon).
Marshall
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and when temp drops in excess of 20-25
degrees are anticipated, fill the tank to minimize the amount of
condensate that will form (when the temp drops below the dew point of
the air in the tank).
Marshall
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Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
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Luther wrote:
3 of them??? Where are the other 2?
There are only two mounts. See section 35-040 and 050 in the 123 manual.
Marshall
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Rusty). Cut off 2/10s for
use in the caps and divide the remainder in half to go into the
bearings. No weighing required. M-1 grease MAY be equivalent - or not. I
don't know.
Marshall
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transmits blower
motor noise to the dash! Use the foam insulation used to cover water pipes!
Marshall
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Luther wrote:
But, how long will the foam last?
The original foam lasted at LEAST 10 years and often 20+. The newer
stuff doesn't deteriorate as fast!
Marshall
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after them that I do not understand.
Is this stuff good to mix in with regular old ATF?
Yes, I know I should drain and replace with Mobil 1, but in the meantime...
DO NOT use any moly stuff in a Mercedes automatic transmission! Might be
okay in a 5 speed.
Marshall
--
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out yet)? Be sure to lubricate the
motor with ATF (not engine oil) while it's out.
Marshall
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.
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part of the alarm system that went off spontaneously MUCH too often
and that Mercedes recommended be disconnected.
Marshall
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from the 1985 Tech. Data Manual and the 1988 TDM shows the same
values.
Marshall
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or pressure (depends on the year of the car)
sensor to turn the aux fan on when high side pressure or temp exceeds
the setpoint.
Marshall
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Curt Raymond wrote:
Does anybody have a writeup on subframe mounts? My 190D needs 'em and I was
thinking of doing them myself. Good excuse to buy a floorjack I think.
-Curt
Rear subframe mounts on a 201/124 are much more difficult for the DIYer
than on 123/126s.
Marshall
--
Marshall
if
the clutch coil and wiring are okay. 2 ohms or lower indicates a shorted
winding and much above 4 ohms suggests some added resistance or an open
coil. I have had one coil open and one short internally. Replaced them
both from old clutches.
Marshall
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is
running (in an '84 or earlier 126.120 - in 1985 they added an engine
coolant temp sensor that also engaged the aux fan at around 100 deg. C.
or a bit more).
Marshall
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Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
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be removed without losing the charge.
Marshall
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Craig McCluskey wrote:
On Fri, 29 Jun 2007 12:38:09 -0400 Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Mercedes offers the following recommendations for adding oil to the AC
system for ALL compressors (York, Delco R4 or A6 and Nippondenso:
When system is suddenly emptied (blowout) add 40 ml
. I don't recall that the oil
level is dropping!
Marshall
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or insufficient compression. Timing errors can alter all three. Your
compression numbers are just fine.
Marshall
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.
Here's more about glow plug diagnostics:
http://www.beru.com/english/produkte/gluehkerzen/diagnosehilfe.php
Marshall
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Luther wrote:
What about the tranny dipstick??
0.3 liters (0.32 qt). That's from the Maintenance Manual ('81-'93) job
2710.
Marshall
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I can't seem
to get to!
Here's the proper tool (I've been using this one for 40+ years) as well
as a picture of a homemade version.
Marshall
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[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-- next part --
A non-text
, and if it reads
accordingly all the way down the stick.
The distance between the ADD and MAX line on the engine oil dipstick of
OM60x engines is 2 liters (2.114 qt). That's from the 1988 TDM and
covers cars from 85-thru '89.
Marshall
--
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Univ of Pittsburgh School
of
any that are TESTED and shown to be bad. If the car isn't driven or run
for a long lime, lifter noise will usually be louder until the engine is
run at 2000+ rpm for 5 minutes or so.
Marshall
--
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Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
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like Rotella and Castrol
synthetics to quiet lifer clatter.
Marshall
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to. The replacement engine were FINE.
Marshall
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of
my present cars and have used it on several others with NO problem.
Marshall
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for a used
replacement sender.
Marshall
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Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I have had several fail actually. Whoever said they never fail is wrong.
Loren Faeth wrote:
Well, they never fail, howcome you need one?
They DO become unreliable after 20 years! I'm told that resoldering
repairs most of them.
Marshall
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is now available and is faster, but costs more and
has other disadvantages.
Marshall
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experience is require to know how
much effort should be used and how much movement can be tolerated.
Almost any experienced mechanic can test it for you in a few minutes.
Marshall
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Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
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if the 300SD's
sold in Japan were RHD?
There was a problem fitting the steering box AND the turbo into the
available space. Maybe some without turbos (OM603.91x) were made). Up
through 1989 126.125 were ONLY sold in the US and all had left hand
steering.
Marshall
--
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a hoist and a lot of work).
Marshall
--
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Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
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/groaning noises
before they fail - once they make noise, the joint IS trashed. The fact
that grease quiets the joint is a diagnostic and does NOT repair the
wear that exists and only slightly slows further wear.
Marshall
--
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Univ of Pittsburgh School
not age well. The engine in that car was a good engine, but the car will
almost surely be worn out. Will be expensive to maintain and some engine
parts will be difficult to obtain reliably.
Marshall
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Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Allan Streib wrote:
Well, so assuming he did not put red dye in his own bio-diesel, what
aside from the bumper sticker gave him away?
Veggie oil doesn't smell like diesel!
Marshall
--
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Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
owners - especially if
the dealer pushed a bit. They seldom/never did that to subsequent owners.
Marshall
--
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Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
evaporator (especially at joints) sits in condensate that
doesn't drain completely. Thats why some models (W124 140) have lots
of failures while 201s using very similar evaporators don't.
Marshall
--
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Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
for one million kilometers.” That would be 620,000 miles.
---
Is that what you wanted?
Marshall
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Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
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an issue on a
warm start or above 60 degrees ambient.
The cold idle control operates on vacuum. If there's a leak in the
vacuum system (or a tired vacuum pump), you will have the situation you
describe.
Marshall
--
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Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Changing glow plugs in a 190D is easy with a 601 engine (using a Snap-On
SFSUM 12 3/8 deep swivel socket) and only a little more difficult
on a 602.91x engine. On the 602.96x it may be best to remove the intake
manifold, but I know of several mechanics that don't.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D
the IP can be removed. Not nice.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
the problems
and the harness largely stopped spontaneously degrading in the cars.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:
Marshall,
Welcome back.
Do I read this correctly that no diesels had biodegradable wiring?
The late '94 and all '95 124 E300Ds (with OM606 engines) and the 140
diesels had defective wiring harnesses.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ
or engineering defects. Additional warranty could
be purchased!
There is no reason that I can think of for Mercedes to be financially
responsible for decisions of the German gov't.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
and by 1972-73 they were all gone on all models. The sealed fitting last
longer!!!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
John Freer wrote:
MB never had a 201, 2.5 in 1986 in the US market.
The 201.126 was available in the US as a non-turbo between '86 and '89.
The turbo (201.128) was ONLY available in the US in '87 and less than
1400 were imported.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ
Marshall Booth wrote:
John Freer wrote:
MB never had a 201, 2.5 in 1986 in the US market.
The 201.126 was available in the US as a non-turbo between '86 and '89.
The turbo (201.128) was ONLY available in the US in '87 and less than
1400 were imported.
Marshall
In '84-85 the 2.2 liter
a 240D) and can deliver spectacular
fuel economy both on the highway (44 mpg) and in the city (38).
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
in late (1986 on) 126s. The problem
doesn't appear to be present in 210 chassis cars.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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