Transmission mount or possibly a flex disk.
Dead engine mount will generate a knock too when the mount is empy and flat
after the fluid leaks out.
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603 turbo would work fine (or a 602). M117 is a no go, the master cylinder and
the left valve cover occupy the same space.
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Actually, if that's a 280 4.5, I do in fact have an engine and transmission.
Out of a 74 450 SL, so it has the smog cams, but intact.
I don't need it, had to junk the 280 due to incurable rust, so if someone can
use it, it's free.
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Last dead short we had in a Benz was a grounded wire for the trunk light on the
300SDL. It was a pain to fix, but not hard, as the back seat upper rest had to
come out to get the wiring harness split up to where the wires weren't melted.
Had to splice in a bunch of wire for taillights, new
I suspect the failure mode is no brakes. No "manual reversion" system, the
brake pedal is attached to a spring and a positions sensor, not the hydraulic
system. If the servo fails, no pressure (or too little, or too much) is
applied to the brake pads.
I would expect some very severe liability problems for "brake by wire" systems
if they fail.
I sure a s..t would sue the crap of out MB if I were hit and seriously injured
by a Benz with non-working "brake by wire", it's totally un-necessary and is
far less reliable than simple hydraulics.
Probably is confusing the fact that each shaft is marked with the two parts
being balanced separately (just like people thinking you could interchange
flywheels on the older cars with manual transmissions). In both cases the
whole thing is balanced as a unit, if you mix and match parts you're
You have a broken wire in the door post, this is quite common.
When a hurricane isn't pending, you need to find the broken wire using a VOM
and splice in new wire through where it bends.
Might be a good idea to splice in new wire for all of them, if one is broken
more are soon to follow.
The mandatory relocation provision is stil there, but it was greatly weakened
during Bush II.
In Ontario, this is not an issue, as it is strictly forbidden to build ANY
permanent structure, even a garden shed, in a flood plain. No exemptions.
Never hear about anyone getting flooded out
I have friends in Columbia SC, I'm worried about them. New house got flooded
last major storm in spite of being well out of the 100 year flood zone.
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Probably not much demand for that jig by now, I'm pretty sure there aren't very
many engines around that need it any more -- later ones have inserts from the
factory and there is no need to do the job twice.
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No MB content because I have a head cold and put off the exhaust on the TE for
another day, likely next weekend.
Had a growl in the Golf, and some play in the drive train on the driver's side,
so got a replacement axle as the inner joint is known to go bad and cause
vibration/growl worse at
Cost is the same as an evaporator, it's in the same box and I don't think you
can take it out the front (although I have a dim memory that it may be possible
on the W201 chassis).
Typical problem is leaking 0-rings on the header seal, and corrosion from using
the wrong coolant is always
I have to admit that a car without a clutch can be a bit difficult to drive!
I will hopefully be swapping an axle in the Golf this evening, so I can swap
mufflers on the TE tomorrow
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Your local hydraulic shop can crimp a new hose on for you with the same type of
fitting. Had a fuel line for the TE made that way as the replacements failed
in a few weeks. Ditto for AC hoses by the way.
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DOT 3 has a lower boiling point and it intended for use with drum brakes, if I
remember correctly. Use DOT4, it's for disk brakes. As I remember there isn't
enough price difference (if any) to matter.
Reminds me I need to bleed the brakes on the 300D, I want to get it back on the
road.
How did you set the gasket? This critical, it's not just pop it on the cover
and screw it down!
Best practice is to make sure the gasket is fitted to the cover all the way
around, clean and dry. Head must also be clean and dry.
Thump the cover firmly agains the head five or six times with
A friend's family had one in the 80's. 12 mpg mixed driving in California.
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Yeah, zamac and water are a poor mix. Back in the day the zamac was chrome
treated, helped a great deal with the corrosion (which is why all carbs had
that "gold" look to them, it's potassium dichromate if I remember correctly).
Reminds me I need to get the generator out and clean the tank and
I'm always amused by ethanol destroying plastic or rubber parts in carburetors.
After all, gasoline has contained some amount of ethanol since 1972 somewhere
in the country at one time or another. MTBE isn't much better, and was more
widely used, too.
Surely ethanol resistant materials are
I just put all new hoses on the TE, made a big difference. Should have done it
years ago, I think the rears have been bad and caused dragging brakes for some
time. Ate up the rotors and two sets of pads before I got around to it.
Except for one on the old 220D, all of them have come off
I have never been able to budge one of the hubs with a slide hammer. A
standard shop press works fine.
My first attempt ended up and a local machine shop, and they were afraid they
would damage the steering knuckle it was so stuck, I never managed to get it to
move at all. That was on my
Actually, it was a research group at a University testing new sniffer equipment
(that will fit in a car, so you can test while driving, unlike the old
equipment which is pretty big) who found the "up to forty times" the level of
NOx. Still very low numbers compared to old diesels.
The real
A bit of light oil on the axle splines (or some neverseize), else everything it
dry.
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Yeah, stairs really suck when your foot won't bend far enough. The bounce is
irritating and it's uncomfortable. I can force it to normal ROM, so it's
really just a matter of working on it.
Rough ground helps a lot, as it flexes my ankle under pressure. It hurts, but
the more I use it the
Thanks for the thoughts Larry. Work sucks, I'm not sure what to do about it as
the Resourse Leader appears to be off his meds -- I'm looking fo rsomething
else, need health insurance for 2 1/2 more years. What can you say about
someone who tell obvious lies that are provably false and goes
Larry:
The ankle is OK, but still gives me fits once in a while. Been a year and a
half now, and I've been told that's pretty normal. Some arthritis in it,
probably there before I broke it. Stepped on a log in the drive taking the
trash out from the garage at night -- I knew they were
SKF or Timken.
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Yikes, what a mess. Being allergic to the bone cement would be a very bad
thing.
I would want to keep your leg, although we have a friend who has the fake femur
(due to extensive radiation for soft tissue sarcoma followed by a bad break
that would not heal), so it's possible. Not a lot of
The tie rod has a standard tie rod end that you will need to pop loose with a
pickle fork or a lever type tool (which I prefer).
The other links unbolt, but the rubber is part of the spring action and the
wheel carrier must be at ride height when you tighten the bolts back up. No
need to
I'd check the bolt for burrs, won't help if you tear it up getting it in.
Otherwise, do you have lots of biodiesel in your local supply? That can eat
rubber, may need a viton o-ring from your local bearing supply place.
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Actually, the US went Metric long before there was an SAE system. Ask Model T
owners about wrenches, for instance.
The US Army went metric in 1911 when the system was officially adopted. The
Navy stayed inch based for a very long time even though there wasn't much of a
Navy in 1911.
SAE
Two problems with those GM engines: original rear main bearing design was
grossly inadequate and the fuel filters were totally inadequate for the quality
of the fuel available (read very poor).
Very small amounts of water in the fuel would trash the rotary pump (I seem to
remember it was a
Terminal 86 is the German label for power supply connection at the relay.
I suspect the curtesy light relay, it's the usual failure. Draws a couple amps
all the time when dead.
Never known it to blow the fuse though.
Your lost wire could be pinched in the dash somewhere and grounded, too.
We pull the carrier and use a press. Much faster, and I've never been able to
get a hub out with a slide hammer. In my case they had been in there for 28
years.
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You can check them in place -- jack up the car so you can reach the axle and
rotate the shaft. If either end moves in relation to the joint, it's bad.
They can go bad like my Golf though, and grind. You'd probably have to pull it
to see if it's the wheel bearing or the axle joint unless it's
A bad bearing can damage the wheel carrier, or at least "grow" enough to be
very difficult to get out -- had that happen a time or two.
Basically the bearing is a double row ball bearing with one side free (so it
can be assembled) -- the axle nut holds it together.
The nub is pressed into the
You meter is completing the circuit if you are touching the "hot" (battery)
side of the fuse.
You can do the same thing by pulling the battery cable and connecting the meter
between the cable and the battery post, then pulling fuses to see when the
current flow drops off.
Peter
Larry:
Classic battery flattening problem is a bad light delay relay. It's a solid
state relay that turns off the interior lights after a delay, and when it goes
bad it draws a couple amps after the lights are off. Sadly, the only way to
check is to check the current draw when the lights go
The bearing is pressed into the wheel carrier, and then the hub is pressed into
the center of the bearing. Don't want you to end up with half of what you
need, eh? Three parts there.
The axle does indeed fit on a spline through the hub. It also holds the
bearing together, so the nut needs
Lousy milage, the 420 is a much better car. Faster, better milage, and less
prone to leaks.
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M103 or M104 (DOHC). Pretty much the same except that the front seal leak
repair requires removing the head on the M104. Don't remember what year they
changed.
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The axle in the wagon is larger diameter than the sedan, but I think that's the
only difference.
And I suspect it's the same part in use today, MB is good at designing properly
and then using common parts for a very long time. I think the rear suspension
is exactly the same on current
The movie is pretty confused as it doesn't follow the book very well.
Book is a bit adolescent, but readable. The movie deserves the reviews it got.
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Don't bother, it's terrible. I got tired of terrible blackness and weird
dialogue in 1976 when Lynch was just starting out. Needs a shrink, bad.
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The movie stank, I'm very much un-fond of Lynch. Books were fascinating when I
was 14, pretty pedestrian last time I looked.
It's about selling sci-fi books to teenagers.
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I think wild boar is, well, sorta fragrant, and not in a good way. Ditto for
billy goat
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Make sure it's the complete wheel carrier, not just the hub that presses into
the bearing.
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Cuts out and backfires could easily be an over-rich condition, too. Or bad
plug wires. Or a leaking airflow sensor to throttle body leak.
Your symptoms tell me that the system cannot manage the fuel mixture when it
comes out of cold running open loop mode. When it goes into feedback loop
Is your mechanic familiar with KE-Jet injection? It's mechanical, not
electronic except for mixture control feedback. A failing electro-hydraulic
regulator could do the same thing by leaking when warm.
A sticking idle control valve will cause stalling when coasting to a stop.
Lots of
Not it if's barely running or rattling -- my TE would do the same thing until I
replaced the relay and the bad pump.
Check the fuel pressures, if not steady it's a pump or relay.
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Have you replaced the fuel pump relay?
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Ignition analyzer.
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So long as the shock is in place the spring link cannot drop too far. So don't
take the shock out.
Replaced a couple rear wheel bearings on the TE a few years ago, it's not bad
other than the parking brake links, without the MB tools it's a pain to get
them all back correctly.
Don't forget that ignition coils can be flaky, too! Single coil on that car.
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Leave the shock mount bolt alone if you are not planning to remove the spring,
it does not need to come out.
You will need to unbolt the links for the suspension (camber, thrust,
longitudinal, spring link, tie rod) -- tie rod will require a tie rod end tool,
I prefer the "lever" type.
Remove
I don't think you need one. Support spring link with a jack while the car is
up on jackstands or on a life, unbolt lower shock absorber mount and spring
link bearing in the wheel carrier, lower spring link. Spring will completely
un-compress and can be removed by hand. If you want to use a
Take the wheel carrier off and use a press. I've never been able to get the
hub out with a slide hammer, and I've screwed with these since about 1980. The
bearing is usually rusted in well enough you have to use a press to get that
out too.
Replace the bearing for the spring link while you
More likely a slipping belt -- if the compressor speed doesn't match the engine
speed, the smart relay will kick off the compressor until you re-start.
This is a safety feature to prevent a failed AC compressor from wrecking the
belt and leaving you with no power steering or alternator.
Fuel pump relay is behind the battery, either a separate relay or part of the
relay pack, depending on year of production.
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I have had Bosch fuel pumps refuse to run properly when hot, although in the
case of the sedan it would have to be both of them. On the wagon they are in
series, so just one cutting out will cause stalling.
The one in my Audi Fox did this to me on a long trip out west in 1980 -- would
cut out
Stuck GP relay on my Volvo TD nearly left me stranded once, same deal. 80A
glow plugs and a 100A alternator is not a good mix at night
Anyway, just as I was about to find a place to pull off when the engine died
(electrical solenoid shut off in the Volvo) I hit a bump and the relay let
Typically that means you have a bad diode or two (usually open) and are only
getting a few amps out of the alternator.
The idiot light just indicates that the battery is supplying the coil, not the
alternator.
Bad voltage regulator will do the same thing, plenty of amps maybe, but not
enough
Replace all the suction side hoses before you do anything else, minor leaks can
cause serious starting issues. Mostly cold, but in some cases hot too. Will
also cause the fuel to drain back when parked on slopes, this is a big issue
with the W124 IPs due to the o-ring seal on the lift pump
The usual reason the AC quits is that the hoses go bad. The compressor in my
1972 280 worked fine, but I couldn't keep a charge in it, and being an
under-dash aftermarket unit installed by the dealer didn't do much either.
If you blew up a compressor, put a filter in the suction line.
No hot start on a W123 turbo is likely an over-adjusted rack dampener bolt.
That IP is prone to engine vibration at at idle as the dampener spring ages and
it can get pretty bad.
On a high milage car, if you adjust out ALL the longitudinal vibration with the
engine cold, you will reduce the
The line is readily available, but I don't know what the price is. Many of my
instruments at work use it.
Peter
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No messages again.
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I'm getting messages again. No idea why this happened.
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Low voltage makes the radio in the TE intermittent and the radio display
garbled.
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Finally got time to replace the window regulator in the TE. Driver's window
has been stuck intermittently for some time, but usually works. Died this
winter (along with the battery, replaced that too) and I've had a replacement
floating about for a couple years.
Two of the hooks on the door
Most common leaks those compressors are the manifold o-rings and the shaft
seal. Neither will improve with running.
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Bad head gasket most likely.
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Welcome to the world of forced upgrades.
I'm betting it's a browser issue combined with the eternal twiddling computer
people cannot resist.
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Most likely. There is a short, bigger on one end line between the tank and the
steel lines.
Peter
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Stanley Steamers were very fast -- cylinder directly coupled to the axle in
some cases, and big wheels.
One of the Stanley brothers was killed racing one on the sea shore, went out of
control at well over 100 mph (on wooden wheels, no less) and crashed.
Pretty sharp for the day, but getting
Citric acid. Dissolves scale and soap scum. Present in large amounts in
Kool-Aid.
You can buy it pretty cheap in bulk.
Peter
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I bought a Bosch front loader a few years ago. Other than the front loader
thing of tying all the shirts into knots and jumping around, it's a great
washer.
For absolutely best life though, I'd second the Speed Queen. Make sure it's
well bolted down though, they don't have "wobble" sensors
It's toast unless you can re-establish the emulsion. Mix the crap out of it
and see if the pigments stay suspended, and do a test patch.
Latex paints can separate pretty badly but still work if well mixed, but if the
"solid" portion will not re-emulisfy, the water froze out and the paint then
I put HD on my Volvo 740, a choice I greatly regretted. I'm not a rally
driver, I'm just going to work and back. Very hard ride.
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Save yourself some time and jack the engine up and remove the mount on that
side. I did one starter on a 190, got it out by dropping it, nearly brained
myself, but never could figure out the trick to getting it back IN. Next to no
room, ended up jacking the engine and removing the mount.
I had a Buick Century, 1985 I think. Probably did permanent damage to my left
knee, the headlight switch stuck out from the dash at knee level right by the
door opening and I jammed my knee on it any number of times.
70's American cars (and probably most of them since) are designed by exterior
You can lower the diff out of the way, the mounts are pretty high, no need to
remove driveshaft, etc. Cannot remove and replace them with the diff in normal
position, no clearance. Only needs to come down a couple inches I think.
You should lower it anyway to replace the front mount rubber
Best way according to my MB mechanic is to use a hammer and chisel and drive
the steel rings in and up from the rear, collapsing them. They press in from
the FRONT, do not attempt to push them out the back The old ones will be
very stuck, which is why he recommends collapsing them.
Reminds me I need to replace the regulator and motor on the TE driver's door
this weekend. I'm getting tired of opening the door to badge in at work, and
when it warms up, I'll need to be able to open that window so I don't fry --
KILMA relay needs work too!
A lap belt won't keep you from being sucked out of the seat when a window blows
out, it's happened before (DC-10) due to engine failure.
Cogent point is that the cowling is supposed to stay on and contain the flying
bits, for several reasons, and in this instance, the cowling failed from a
More to the point, I suspect a design problem -- the cowling is supposed to
contain a thrown fan blade, and it appears that just one blade came loose or
broke off.
The engine may have had quite a few parts replaced, but some of it is indeed 18
years old. I don't know what maintenance
Replace it. The bearing in the pivot is shot, and it will both knock and eat
belts pretty soon.
Peter
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Never had one fall apart before, but the two parts are actually completely
separate filters -- the high density (gin trash or string wound) fine filter
bleeds back into the oil pan, the full flow paper filter feeds the engine oil
passages. There is a seal between them that the "post" goes
Ugh, Monroe's ride like you welded the rod to the cylinder, avoid them at all
costs (and they are valved like American shocks, too). Had a pair on the rear
of my 280, replaced them with a set of Bilsteins from a '65 out of the junk
yard. Vastly better.
Hold out for the real ones,
I had a friend in college who's father had a 450SL. About 12 mpg was usual,
the 450 sedan got 14 or so.
Big beautiful cars, but very gas hungry.
At least you are getting some use from the fuel!
They can be leaned out quite a bit, drops the performance but I go the 280 up
to 17 mpg on the
Yeah, that old D-Jet has amazing acceleration when set up right. Amazing fuel
consumption, too -- when my 280 drove like that I was getting 14 mpg.
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Cam bolts are on the lower control arm pivots, they allow defined movement to
align the strut.
Likely the bushings are worn, the bolts usually are not (although it can
happen), and you get the result you have, not enough adjustment.
Also possible that the ball joint(s) are worn, although that
Worth a look. Definitely need to get a different tire on there though,
blowouts are not fun.
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The problem is not the main battery, it's the logic board backup battery that
causes the PRAM or BIOS to lose it's data when it goes flat.
They can also fail, like the on in my TIBook, so I have to re-set the clock
every time I turn it on. NLA, sadly, I'll have to splice in a replacement
As long as it's plugged in you are fine.
Leave it without power until the MB battery dies, and they can become
completely inert. Had it happen too many times.
Peter
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You also need to leave it on the charger for a couple days -- the PRAM battery
can get discharged and result in all sort of goofy power issues. Will also
result in the clock needing to be reset, which you may not notice if you have a
live wireless connection.
Check the connection for the crankshaft sensor too (it's on the bell housing,
connector is behind the engine). Flaky signal leads to flaky idle and tach
readings.
Peter
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Most Permatex gasket sealers respond well to 90% isopropyl alcohol.
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Couple options here, depending on condition:
Sticking air flow sensor, check to make sure the flap moves freely and there
isn't anything in it.
Flaky fuel pump (I had to replace both of them on the wagon as they are in
series).
Leaking plunger seal on the fuel distributor letting the fuel
601 - 700 of 6199 matches
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