In spite of the conventional wisdom, it is entirely possible to be too
thin, and many fad diets are lacking in nutrients.
Humans have been omnivores for millions of years, vegan diets are very
likely to be lacking in things like vitamin B12, which is only found
in a couple plant sources
Only problem is leaking front seals so far as I know, and the fix
requires a head gasket, unlike the M103. Haven't heard of any other
issues not related to unreliable computers.
A bigger job to change a heater core than a W124 though, my brother is
most of the way through doing that right
Using bones for soup stock (or anything else you use stock in) is as
old as cooking.
Best to roast the bones to get rid of some of the fat an brown them a
bit for more flavor, then simmer overnight (12 hours or longer, no
boiling, simmering) to dissolve all the collagen.
Very rich tasty
If it has stability control, be careful to stay below speeds were it
actuates (it doesn't necessarily announce that), otherwise you can
experience very short brake and tire life and excessive fuel
consumption. My buddy Hans has had a couple go through the shop with
those complaints, turns
Hard acceleration in turns seems to be the sort of thing that does the
most harm. I'm a poky driver these days, so I'd not have much trouble
I don't think, but with all that torque it may be an issue!
Peter
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It was actually above freezing today! One more blast of cold air and
low temps below 10F and I think winter is done.
I'm ready for spring.
Peter
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Lack of B12 is very serious -- in some cases, called pernicious
anemia the body stops making the cofactor necessary for transport out
of the small intestine into the blood stream. The result is severe
anemia.
This can result in permanent nerve damage, mental impairment, muscle
weakness.
I offered to give my old 220D with the pull switch start to several
people if they could start it. It was a real hoot to watch them try
to find the glow plug lamp (if they knew anything about diesels) and
the expression on their face when there was no start position on the
keyswitch.
I think the one hanging (!) in the Air Force Museum in Dayton, OH is
wrinkled because it's bent. I assume it was well stripped before
installation, but the skin has diagonal wrinkles in the front half.
Looks as though it made a very hard landing one too many times. I
don't remember
It's under the blower motor in the fan housing, kinda a pain to get
out (you have to hold your left hand in the right position as you fish
around with your right, etc). Usually dirty, too.
Peter
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You can get replacement electronics. Chinese, so who knows how long
they will last, but the cheap replacement I put in the wagon works
fine with the new blower.\
You cannot replace the controller with a resistor, it's a duty cycle
controller, controls fan speed by switching the ground in
Faulty temperature gauge won't make it pressurize and spill coolant!
Peter
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And you also have to maintain and repair your pipeline. Most of the
resistance to the Keystone XL comes from the history (rather bad,
actually) of the owners. They are notorious for large leaks and poor
maintenance along with slow and inadequate response to problems in
their existing
R-12 was banned due to the destruction of the ozone layer, which is in
much better shape now that it was 20 years ago. No recent stories of
pigs in Australia with skin cancers on their ears.
There was no global cooling, and as far as I remember, no one I was
around in those days paid any
Craig:
I also have a PhD, I'm not an ignorant yahoo from under a rock.
Over the four decades I've been paying attention to this subject, I've
had the opportunity to work with people directly involved in the
discussion at several universities and Forestry Canada, where I did a
Post-Doc.
W123 or W124?
W124 the axles bolt to a cup on the side of the diff, you don't have
to open it up. Hexhead bolts, though.
Not a bad job except that the exhaust has to be dropped on the
driver's side to get the half shaft out.
Just changed one on my brother's 300E a couple weeks ago.
There has been indeed a great deal of money spent and fake data
generated in the climate debate, but it's all from the fossil fuel
industry aimed at convincing the general public that climate change is
a hoax.
None of the anti climate change people are climatologists, and the
vast
The outer joint on a half shaft is bad.
Replace with a good used one or new -- new is expensive. rebuilt is
usually junk.
Peter
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If the flap on the bottom of the thermostat isn't correct, it won't
work properly and will cause overheating if it doesn't close off the
short circuit around the block it is supposed to seal off. This is
designed to heat the engine up more quickly, and in spite of the very
simple design,
If you are looking for very sharp knives that hold an edge well, you
should be looking at Japanese knives, or the copies now made by
Henkels and Wustoff.
You will have to use waterstones to sharpen them though, a knife steel
isn't a good choice for touching them up -- they are usually
To reply to my own post, Shuns are not a great value in that you can
easily get a better knife for less money, not that there is something
wrong with them. They do have a reputation for being chippy,
partially because they are quite brittle at least until the steel at
the edge is removed
What is the outside temp? Around here I'd be shocked if the lower
radiator hose was warm at all even driving around in town, it's 17 at
the moment, and the coolant will lose all the heat in the radiator
long before it goes back into the engine. T-Stat is probably just
cracked open,
Now that you have a forced open thermostat, it's time to do a citric
acid flush.
You will need a kilogram of food grade citric acid (should be able to
find that fairly easily without spending the money for analytical
grade). Dissolve in a gallon of water. Empty cooling system,
Don't buy plumbing stuff at the box stores, it's invariably the worst
possible grade available.
Go to a standard pluming supply company, the one your local plumbers
use. Slightly higher prices, but vastly better stuff.
I need to do this myself, I grabbed a Delta from the box store last
Computer control does not need 11,000 process running to set throttle
position. A dumb servo system can do that with a few transistors.
The system is grossly overcomplicated for a very simple task, and
engines run VERY slowly (and the feedback loop is even slower than the
engine, O2
Blind people hate Piouses -- in fact, I believe the Feds made Toyota
do something to make them audible. Blind people were stepping out in
front of them because they could not hear them.
And just driving one does NOT make a person a better driver.
Peter
It raises other questions, for instance, why do we have untestable
overly complex software replacing a three dollar throttle cable?
Peter
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Switch on the dash, also a switch for the washer. Intermittent and
regular wipe on one switch, wash on the other.
Peter
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There is a place that still sells diaphragms for those, Performance
Products in Tennessee. Don't have the contact information at hand,
and I don't know if they are in the catalog on line any more, but they
have them, plus the ones for the W124.
Peter
I think I am seeing all the emails.
But then I use Earthlink, which is very unusual these days.
Peter
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I wish you'd said something earlier -- you need to have a filter
installed in the suction line to keep crap from the locked up
compressor out of the new one -- this is likely what killed the last
one.
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I'm firmly entrenched in the Millenial world (after 45 years, everyone
is catching up to me). I'm quite satisfied with my 2004 VW Golf -- 45
plus mpg on my routine commute, very low emissions for a diesel, and
running strong at 125,000 miles.
The very last thing I want is a car that does
I agree with you 100% on getting old. Having viral cardiomyopathy
that put me in the hospital with congestive heart failure over Easter
isn't helping any, either!
I'm more or less back up to speed, still get dizzy from the beta
blocker, but able to walk full speed and get the lawn mowed.
Should work OK, just remember that the wagon and the sedans have
different rear axles, the wagon is 49 mm at the axle nut and the
sedans are 47 mm I think.
It is much easier to replace subframe mounts and do most of the work
on links outside the car. However, you must still tighten the
Check to see if the fuel pump(s) run when you flip the key on, and
also run when it is cranking.
If not, the relay is bad, sadly it's the monster electronic one on
that car, I believe.
Peter
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Bad crankshaft position sensor will leave the engine inoperative
except when cranking, I believe. And they tend to work or not, don't
usually go intermittent.
Peter
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I would call a transmission shop, it's not possible to for the
transmission to lock up and stall the engine, it has to be a bad
converter. Worst case a locked up tranny would simply never let then
engine get much above idle, but it can only stall if the torque
converter is locked, not the
You should check the outer bearings on the spring (bottom) link at the
wheel carrier -- they go bad when the boots fail, causing the rear end
to wander and knocking noises.
Could also be a shock that has leaked enough oil for the pressurizing
piston to hit the operating piston on large
On my Golf I bought glass ones.
Whatever system you use, a couple coats of automotive clear coat will
protect them much better than the polish in the kits.
Peter
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I have always understood that what ended the Cold War had nothing at
all to do with Reagan, but instead Chernobyl convinced Gorbachov that
nuclear war was an invitation to the end of civilization -- no one
would survive with a functioning economy or decent standard of living,
even
A number of people have reported via oil analysis that Truck and Turbo
is fine for VW PD engines. Mine is a 2004 and does not have the
particulate burner that older oils will fill with ash, so I think
it's OK.
It is the only oil on the list at tdiclub that I can find around here,
short
There is no relationship between a W109 and the Gullwing other than
they used a mechanical injection pump for fuel delivery, I don't think
even the pump is the same.
The Gullwing engine wasn't used all that much, it was very expensive
to manufacture, and difficult to maintain (the
My brother's SDL has a 30 gallon tank, and will go nearly 900 miles on
a full one. He filled up once on the way from home to Alexandria, VA.
My 87 300D holds 20, and in good weather I can easily to 500 miles
before stopping to re-fuel.
The Golf will hold quite a bit more (at least 1.5
The way to get accurate milage calculations is to do them over several
tanks. this will average out the differences in fill, although it
won't help much with pump variations unless you always use the same
pump -- I can to and from work, but on the road, no. Otherwise fill
the same way at
Lol, that 26 gallon tank with the filler six inches higher than the
top doesn't give you much room for expansion!
That is why, in fact, the instructions always say not to top off the
tank. Not a problem for me, as I'm half a gallon away from home most
of the time I fill up, and likely a
Truck and turbo only, it's the only on of them you mention that I KNOW
has the necessary lubricants for high friction flat surfaces -- I
don't know the design of the M119 all that well, but if it uses cams
running on rocker arms, it needs the high friction flat surface
lubricants.
This
Hey folks, my brother has decided to part with his older Mercs -- one
is a 1976 300D in running condition, recently rebuilt engine and
working transmission, but very rusty (no floor pans, again). Home
made seat covers up front, worn factory in the rear. Restorable if
you want to put the
The seat belt interlock was 1974 only. Bad idea, as everyone either
hot-wired it and still didn't wear seat belts, or people who did often
found it necessary to hot-wire the system so they could start their
cars when it failed.
Peter
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Cars are in Evansville, Indiana.
Peter
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KK manufacturing may still make the floor pans, which makes it a
fiddly but do-able project.
And I have two repairable cars here in Indiana that need a home, along
with a W108 with rust worm and a spare '74 SL engine.
Peter
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There is also a vacuum tank under the left front fender, and the
typical failure there is that the rubber connector between the hard
line and the tank goes bad, leaving you with a big leak and no door
locks.
The valve in the door can go bad too, we had to replace my brother's
in the 76
Those conductors ground the lightening arrester wire that runs along
the top of the poles. If enough of them are missing you can get power
surges when lightening hits the main conductors.
Peter
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Max:
Never tried to take one apart, I'll look in the garage tonight and see
if I still have an old one around.
The real problem is that I don't believe you can get repair parts for
them.
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Probably a good idea. Also check for leaks. Trouble spots are:
High pressure line from condenser to receiver/dryer -- this is the
first hose to go bad
O-rings between compressor and mainfold on top of it, high pressure
side erodes
O-rings between hose manifold and compressor manifold,
And the seal runs on the crank, not the hub, on those engines.
Replacement seals are a few mm deeper so they run on a clean part of
the crank. No help is the leaking one is not the original...
Peter
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Don't forget it was a CONTRACTOR to the EPA that made the woops, not
an agency employee.
Long history of people ripping off the Goverment on contracts.
Peter
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Southern Indiana
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I drove through Phoenix in 1980 at night -- 98 F and 60% RH, a real
sweatbox.
In the old days, before urbanization, Phoenix was dry. Not any more.
Flagstaff is still dry, I think. It was when I was there. Probably
not so much this summer with all the rain.
A friend of mine has his
Probably something in there, look for wood bee holes.
Note that male woodpeckers love siding that makes a lot of noise, they
mark their territory by hammering on hollow limbs that boom. Siding
works really well for that, so do stores bee hive boxes.
Peter
1968 saw the introduction of the new sedans -- ball joints and
double joint rear axles instead of the 1952 king pin front end and
swing axles in the back (and they DO jack, just like a Corvair, but
they don't flip the car over.
Included were anti-dive front end geometry and greatly reduce
That 4 barrel Solex is a junker. Even Solex couldn't make it work on
a Benz engine, they were dogs from A to Z. Nothing desireable in any
way, shape or form.
Many were convered to D-jet or K-Jet, vastly easier and much more
reliable.
Fuel milage was terrible -- the small sedan got 12,
A Holley of any sort would be an improvement. My buddy Hans had to
deal with them all the time in Germany, said they were horrible, even
the factory tech couldn't get them right.
The M110 wasn't bad itself, other than being rather fuel hungry and
terribly noisy due to solid lifters. More
Intake manifold and associated FI parts. I'd not bother with the D-
Jet, impossible to find parts by now and that one requires the correct
distributor, probably like finding hen's teeth forty years after they
stopped production.
Peter
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Nope. The 3.5 was the original one, but in '70 the emissions
requirements and American driving habits resulted in the substitution
of the 4.5L with different cams. There are some 350 SLs around from
1972, rather uncommon -- skinny bumpers and all. I've seen one here
in town a couple
Take the lever off, it's physically impossible to insert the bushing
(or get the rod back in!) with the lever on the transmission.
I have the scars to prove it.
Peter
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Re-heat won't make the side vents warmer as ALL the air goes through
both evaporator and heater core. Side vents will be warmer when the
car is hot because there is some heat exchange from the ductwork until
the under-dash cools off.
If the center vent air is warm when full cooling is
Supposed to be upper 90s here all next week and weekend, so I had to
put off treating my bees for mites for a couple weeks. I want to kill
the mites, not the bees!
I'm ready for fall, but then after living in Canada for three years
I'm ALWAYS ready for fall around here
Peter
Actually, it is, which is why the shifter mechanism has some set up
that prevents leaving one fork engaged while moving to another. If
one of the three cables is broken, it will stay in whatever gear
selected with that cable AND engage another one, causing it to lock
up. Constant mesh
As far as I know, there is no insert in the W124 monovalve, I've had
to replace the entire thing when they fail. Three so far...
Peter
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I have never found just the valve, I believe you must replace the
whole thing. It's not at all like the ones on the W123 and W126.
Peter
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Nah, just the logical end of the gold bug hyping. It was grossly
over-priced due to speculation and market manipulation, as per usual.
Peter
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Broken shifter cable, leaving tranny in two gears at once?
Peter
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Use the economy mode on the climate control. Works just like it
does in normal mode.
Or you can unplug the connection for the clutch at the compressor.
Peter
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No, that one is for diagnostics, specifically setting the injection
timing with the dynamic tool.
The one for the idle speed/tach is on the rear of the engine reading
off the flywheel.
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Low speed switch is on the AC receiver/dryer, I think the ones with
the long pigtail (the other is the low pressure switch). With ignition
on, shorting the two wires will cause the fan to run at low speed.
You can test the fan (sans relays and resistor) by connecting the two
leads at the
Don't install an evaporator with copper pipes, those are the ones that
fail at the crimp joint between copper and aluminum core!
This is a bear of a job, one I've done once and need to do again (not
on the same car).
Do it right, you do NOT want to do it twice, believe me. Took me
three
Replace the fittings on the oil feed lines to the camshafts.
They do go bad, and if the rear one on the drive's side blows out you
can have seriously low oil pressure at idle.
The low oil pressure can also be caused by a scored seat on the relief
valve in the oil filter housing that limits
If it kept blowing the fuse the bearings were bad, and it's likely you
have now burnt off the wire supplying power.
I believe it's switched at the keyswitch, but will have to dig up the
wiring diagrams to see for sure. No fuse in the fusebox, it's direct,
although there may be a
Should be a wire from fuse 12 input side to the outside fuse box --
prior to 12/86 the 12 position was used for the 30A fuse. Melted the
plastic too much, so they changed to the outside fuse.
You should be able to check, a pink/gray wire from the fuse box should
run the the external fuse
If it's the ignition switch, everything else on fuse 12 supply buss
will be dead as well -- if the other things work, it's a loose
connection.
Peter
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If you hadn't read the books, the movie was non-sense. Even if you
had read the books, the movie was awful.
Peter
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You're a generation late for that movie (which stunk). Books are
better, but marginal. They were great when I was 14.
The movie was incomprehensible, don't feel bad if it just looks like a
bad dream. It pretty much was.
Peter
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I'd forgotten Lynch was the director. That's the main reason it was
so bad, watching a movie he directed is like taking a dozen Quaaludes
and hour. I don't think the guy has seen sunlight since 1968.
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Bad ground or a crack in the trace on the cluster. Don't remember if
that's the same rheostat as the W108/W116, in which case it's probably
easier to jumper it when it goes bad, no longer available if it's too
corroded to work anymore.
Peter
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Hmm, that's very interesting, as I have 10.6 on a factory DVD and it's
single layer, the drive in my early Intel books is not dual layer.
how big is the image? If it will fit on a single layer DVD, try using
Disk Utility to burn it. I usually use DragonBurn, it's much faster
and less
Heater core failure is quite rare, but you should replace the 0-rings
on the pipes when you have the heater box out. Blower motor and
controller can be changed without taking anything other than some trim
and the wiper motor out. I've done all these so far, and need to do
the evaporator
In my personal experience living in "Socialist" Canada, the very best
thing about living there was the knowledge that I didn't have to worry
about being bankrupted by getting sick. Unlike here were I have
shelled out about 4k in medical expenses this year AFTER my insurance
paid.
My
Canadian health care is run by the Provinces, not the National
Government.
I lived in Ontario, very few complaints there other than some of the
supiditiies in the law due to it being last updated properly in the
mid 1950s. Not covering hip replacements after age 65, and putting
people
Two things to consider about lack of social security and medicare 80
years ago.
First, old people starved to death if they ran out of money and their
children couldn't help them. Poverty once people were unable to work
six days a week was the norm, and since people made even less in wages
I would suspect the fuel filters unless you KNOW they have been
changed recently. They also act as water collectors and can crap up
badly with little or no warning.
Fuel suppliers for large equipment are notorious for delivering bad
fuel, too -- I've had to diagnose the contents a few
The check valves in the pump can fail too, a cheaper fix if you can
still find them.
Primary cause in my experience is a crack in the section of the line
where all the vacuum lines attach. You have to replace the whole
line, the center section is not available separately. This may
If you need a second one for parts (if there are any left that are
good) I have one that needs a new home soon -- like tomorrow.
Spare engine and transmission.
Peter
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Good to know this works, I only have one key for mine and would really
like a remote for the hatch -- VW in their infinite wisdom requires a
key or remote or inside switch to open the hatch EVERY TIME, which is
a pain.
I'm running about 45 mpg at the moment, suspect either a bad wheel
The connector behind the engine is usually the one that gets corroded.
Mine comes and goes, along with the idle speed control, and I suppose
I should get in there and clean that connector sometime.
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The connector that attaches the tail from the sensor to the harness.
It's exposed and corrodes, resulting in poor transmission of the
signal (which is not voltage, but a pulse generated by the Hall Effect
pickup). The result is first an erratic tachometer/idle speed
control, followed by
3.5L is the M116 cousin of the more common M117 in America. Very
few were sold here, mostly prior to 1973 due to emissions problems.
Basically a stroker version of the M117 (or the M117 is the long
stroke low compression version of the M116).
Same hp and torque with a liter less
I saw that. Probably not merino though, too nice and white -- Merino
sheep make TONS of lanolin, and the wool isn't white when they are
sheared, it's tan and VERY greasy (and in the case of a male sheep,
rancid, too).
I'd guess Perendale, nice white and coarse.
At any rate, poor sheepie
The aftermarket paint on the 300D suddenly failed last winter, same as
yours. Rapid peeling of clear coat on all horizontal surfaces within
a month.
On my car, I suspect inadequate thickness, can't tell you why a Benz
paint job would fail suddenly.
Peter
Brake drag will definitely lower milage in your Golf -- I've picked up
about 2 mpg since the rear brakes quit dragging and the pedal regained
it's normal feel. I'm sure the issue was related to being parked for
six months or so over the winter, but drag is drag.
I'll be having the tires
A dose of RedLine and an oil change quieted my TDI down quite a bit,
and smoothed it out, too. I don't know why better oil would make the
engine run that much smoother, but I noticed within a dozen miles or so.
I use Mobil 1 T, it's readily available and most of the "rated" oils
are not.
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