Re: [MBZ] last test

2014-07-13 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Curt wrote:
 
 Interesting, for me its showing you and the list once again...

My client put okiebenz  in to and Curt in CC.  I did a plain reply.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Another Fkying Tale

2014-07-15 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
  Scott Ritchey wrote:
 
  An Aeromexico Boeing 767-200, ... was rotating for takeoff from
  Madrid's runway 36L when the tail of the aircraft contacted the
  runway surface leaving debris behind. 

 Jon wrote:
 
 Holy Batman!  I’ve been flying 757-767’s for 8 years now, and
 have never seen anything like that.  I can’t believe they didn’t
 feel it. 

Isn't rotating for takeoff just turning around at the end of the
runway?  How did they get the tail to hit the runway?  Doing
wheelies? (I know, only possible with the thrust axis below the
center of gravity)  Or is the runway have a big hill right there?

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Another Fkying Tale

2014-07-15 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
Scott Ritchey wrote:
   
An Aeromexico Boeing 767-200, ... was rotating for takeoff
from Madrid's runway 36L when the tail of the aircraft
contacted the runway surface leaving debris behind.
 
   Jon wrote:
  
   Holy Batman!  I’ve been flying 757-767’s for 8 years now, and
   have never seen anything like that.  I can’t believe they
   didn’t feel it.

  Fmiser wrote:
 
  Isn't rotating for takeoff just turning around at the end of
  the runway?  How did they get the tail to hit the runway?  Doing
  wheelies? (I know, only possible with the thrust axis below the
  center of gravity)  Or is the runway have a big hill right
  there?

 G wrote:
 
 Rotating for takeoff refers to the airplane rotating at the
 center of lift, which at takeoff will be the approximate
 centerline of the wings, ie.. nose up, tail down, to increase the
 angle of attack of the wings, generate greater lift, 

Got it.  Thanks Grant.  I'm familiar with the action, and certainly
seen it many times, but I didn't know the term.  I'd better be
careful - too much more of this and I'll be smart! *grin*  

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Re: [MBZ] W124 LCA's Vs BJ's?

2014-07-23 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
   Rich wrote:
  
   Also, worth taking the BJs and associated bits to a Benz shop
   to have them press the new BJ in with the proper tool, will
   take just a few minutes and not cost much,

  Fmiser wrote:
 
  Unless the nearest shop is over 100 miles [160 km] away.  Then
  it can be quicker and cheaper to buy a ball joint press.

 Rich wrote:
 
 Well, there is that aspect  but I thought ALL civilized
 territories had Benz shops?

Hah!  Maybe that's true! Which would mean I'm in an UN-civilized
territory.  Some days it seems certain...

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Re: [MBZ] 1980 300SD Tranny Issue

2014-07-24 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Max wrote:
 
 +1 on the M1 ATF.  Definitely sounds like it may help your
 transmission.

Dwight wrote:
   
I also used M 1 gear oil in manny tranny of my stick 240D.

   Craig wrote:
  
   Use only ATF in Mercedes manual transmissions. Gear oil will
   damage them.

  Dwight wrote:
 
  Is that spec for 78 240D? MB indy shop put it in.

 Curt wrote:
 
 Thats spec for most manual transmissions.

Curious.  The manual transmissions I'm familiar with are either
old, heavy duty, or Mercedes.  And the W123 all use Dexron II for
the manual transmission.

My GM 4-speed pickup (117 mm) requires 80W90 GL-5 gear oil.  The
big truck transmissions I'm familiar with use either 50W or
75-80W90 gear oil.

I just checked my '85 GM factory service manual.  The 3-speed and
the small 4-speed use DexronII.  The big 117mm 4-speed uses 80W90.

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Re: [MBZ] Am I Nutz?

2014-07-24 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
  Curt wrote:
 
  When I registered the Jetta the guy at the DMV noticed it
  hadn't been registered for 2 years Oh geez, you're going to
  have to pay a fine. I'd been expecting it so I asked what it
  would cost me. Oh geez he says, its fifty bucks. looked at
  me like it was my left arm he needed...

 Meade wrote:
 
 After I bought my '95 E300 and Rich helped me drag it home, I
 needed about a year to get it running, finally went to register
 it and was expecting to have to pay the back year.  Guy at the
 DMV counter asked why I had not registered it after I bought it,
 I told him I needed some time to fix it so it was sitting in my
 garage for a while, he was able to waive the back-registration on
 the spot, easy-peasy.

In Missouri, they only care about delay of title transfer.  Once
the title is transferred, they don't care how long it is before it
is licensed.

But the original comment sounds like CA doesn't want to allow a
title to transfer out of the state unless all the missing years of
registration is paid.  Yikes!

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Re: [MBZ] 1980 300SD Tranny Issue

2014-07-24 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
  Dwight wrote:
 
  I also used M 1 gear oil in manny tranny of my stick
  240D.

 Craig wrote:

 Use only ATF in Mercedes manual transmissions. Gear oil
 will damage them.

Dwight wrote:
   
Is that spec for 78 240D? MB indy shop put it in.

   Curt wrote:
   
   Thats spec for most manual transmissions.

 Fmiser wrote:
 
 Curious.  The manual transmissions I'm familiar with are either
 old, heavy duty, or Mercedes.  And the W123 all use Dexron II for
 the manual transmission.
 
 My GM 4-speed pickup (117 mm) requires 80W90 GL-5 gear oil.  The
 big truck transmissions I'm familiar with use either 50W or
 75-80W90 gear oil.
 
 I just checked my '85 GM factory service manual.  The 3-speed and
 the small 4-speed use DexronII.  The big 117mm 4-speed uses 80W90.

 Curt wrote:
 
 Was that for big trucks? My '88 was only an S15...

The term big truck to me means class 7 or greater.  The 117mm
transmission (also called SM465) wasn't ever used in those.  It was
used in 1/2 ton (class 1), and maybe through the 2-ton (class 3) -
which are typically referred to as light duty.  So big as
compared to the mini-pickups, but not really a big truck. *smiles*

--   Philip, who once earned a living driving big trucks

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Re: [MBZ] 211 to buy?

2014-07-24 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
  John Reames wrote:
  
  I understand the service techs see the v6 models more, and that
  they are runflat/def models...

 WILTON wrote:
 
 runflat/def?

I'm Guessing DEF means Diesel Exhaust Fluid - or Blutech.
Runflat I suppose refers to no spare tire as the installed tires
are run-flat models.

But I'm just guessing...

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[MBZ] OT - small gasoline engine fuel

2014-07-26 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
I have voice my uncertainty about the supposed risks of ethenol in gasoline.

Well, about a week ago my one push mower started running really
poorly.  It acted like a fuel problem, so I kinda wondered if the
ethenol muck had finally got me.  This is the mower I use rather
infrequently.  I don't remember the last time I ran it long enough
to use more than a tank full of fuel.  And it's an old Briggs with
a vented gas cap.  I don't think I run it more than 3-4 times a
year, typical for the last 15 years.  In that time, I have very
deliberately sought out and used nearly exclusively ethenol-blend
gasoline.

I pulled the tank off, opened up the carburetor - clean as a
whistle.  No sludge, no varnish, no gunk.  It was so clean in
seemed a waste of effort to wash it - but I did used carb cleaner to
wash out a couple small pieces of dirt that settled in the bowl.

The problem?  A very worn needle valve.  I didn't have a
replacement on hand, so I filed it smooth and reinstalled.  Runs
okay - but I'm going to replace that needle valve and seat anyway.

So - am I just lucky?  Or is the real problem going to and/or from
ethenol blend?  I dunno - but my experience, with all my gasoline
machines, suggests ethenol is good!

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Today's puzzler: W123 dead tach awakened by the horn

2014-07-27 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Andrew wrote:
 
 The tach in my 1983 300TD is temperamental, and probably on its
 last legs. Half the time it's pegged at zero then it behaves
 erratically and eventually calms down and performs correctly.

Sure sounds like the classic symptoms of poor connections on the
tach amp socket.  This is a round cylinder thing (mini-silo) that
lives on the port side inner fender.  On an '85, the socket is
there - but it's empty!  Prior to '85 there should be a plugin
module.  The classic fix is a cigarette butt between the top of the
cover and the amp to make it push down tighter in the socket.

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Re: [MBZ] Horse power vs. torque - was: OT: How is this game played exactly?

2014-07-29 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 OK wrote:
 
 IIRC, the V8 has more torque, which is what a truck needs.

Well, no.  Not really.  But sort of.

Nothing against you Don, but this is a very common
miss-perception.  So I'm not picking on you - just using your
comment as motivation to respond. *smiles*

Torque is rotational force.  There can be torque with no movement.
Unless there is movement, no work is being done.

If there is torque, and movement occurs - then work is being done.
With a stopwatch (or calendar?) you can measure how fast the work
is being done.  This is horsepower [or watts].

If you have an engine with a fixed horsepower attached to a
transmission (presuming an infinite ratio and lossless - which
doesn't exist) the torque can be any value at all.  For high
torque, it will be moving slow - but for low torque it will be
moving fast.

If we don't change the diameter of the tire, the torque on the
axle necessary to pull a 4000 lb [1800 kg] trailer up
Grapevine out of Los Angeles is fixed.  So if your your 400 hp
pickup and my 7 hp garden tractor have the same size tire, the
torque needed is the same.  The difference is speed.  Your
pickup will get to the top a lot faster than my tractor
because the axle can turn faster because your engine has more
horsepower.

So far it's very clear - but then reality rears it's ugly
head.  Transmissions have fixed ratios and losses.  Engine
ratings are for _maximum_ horsepower - but the actual
horsepower and torque vary depending on speed.  This makes it
almost impossible to actually do an apples-to-apples
comparison.

Nevertheless, looking at the torque value is pretty
meaningless.  If you look at the torque values for various
engine RPM, you can get a clue as to how usable the
power is.  If there is little torque at low RPM, then high RPM
will be needed to get useable power.  This makes it feel like
the driver has to work the engine harder to get the job done.

So - to repeat.  Just a torque value is nearly meaningless.
Torque at a particular RPM is useful - but that is by
definition horsepower!

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Horse power vs. torque - was: OT: How is this game played exactly?

2014-07-29 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 OK wrote:
 
 Now, if I understand correctly, if my pickup has the required
 torque to pull the 4000 lb. trailer up Grapevine, and your lawn
 tractor doesn't, I'll be moving and you won't. So torque does
 matter, but more HP with the required torque means the work gets
 performed faster. Insufficient torque means no work is done.

Pretty close.  What you describe would be correct if it were not
for the transmission.

However, the transmission trades speed and torque (much like a
electric transformer trades volts and amps - but the watts stay
the same).  So a 'phone vibration motor connected through a
transmission with a deep enough low gear could pull that trailer up
Grapevine! Probably we would have to measure the speed by years or
decades, though. *smiles*

This means that my little tractor, with it's very, very low gearing
will be able to pull the trailer because the transmission is
trading away speed until there is enough torque.  But with only 7
HP, the speed will be very slow.

 If Curt wants to haul a load of gravel to camp, he'll need a
 minimum amount of torque to accomplish the job, regardless of how
 fast it gets done.
 
 Did I get it right?

Just remember that the lower gear ratios of the transmission
_increase_ torque and _decrease_ speed.  So if there isn't enough
torque - downshift.  Of course, that only works until you run out
of gears...  Higher horsepower means higher speed at the torque
needed to do the job. 

Usually - as that ugly headed real-world gets in the way and messes
this all up with transmission ratios that don't line up well to
engine power band, torque curves over RPM, etc.  Nothing is as
simple as simple physics says it should be!

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: How is this game played exactly?

2014-07-29 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Andrew wrote:
 
 What countries is she passing through, to get where exactly? She
 who must be admired?

Excerpts from the very post you just quoted

Parts of the AlCan are still pretty rough

Put the car on a barge or ship in Portland or Seattle and fly up.
Seattle and Portland are the Sam's Club and Costco for Alaska.

SWMBA wants to drive the AlCan to get to her new abode.

So - AlCan is the Alaska-Canadian highway.  She would be driving
from USA through Canada to USA.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alaska_Highway
http://www.milepost.com/highway_info/alaska_highway

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Re: [MBZ] Horse power vs. torque

2014-07-30 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
   OK Don wrote:
  
   IIRC, the V8 has more torque, which is what a truck needs.

  Fmiser wrote:
 
  Well, no.  Not really.  But sort of.

 Jim wrote:
 
 It's a good first approximation.  Torque maps to
 acceleration, whereas horsepower maps to top speed.
 A 200HP 400#' engine will likely be _far_ more drivable
 than a 300HP 200#' engine, assuming equivalence in other
 broad parameters.  (RPM range, reasonable number of
 gears, etc.)

The physics principles say no - horsepower is horsepower.  But -
the perception of the person controlling the engine speed says
Physics - go jump in a lake!.

I suspect your definition of drivable is probably similar to mine
- if high RPM (with high noise and high fuel use) is necessary to
access the torque then it is less pleasant to drive.  Thus if
your 200 HP engine required high RPM to get it's 400 lbs-ft of
torque but the 300 HP engine had it's 200 lbs-ft available from a
low RPM I think we would consider the 300 HP more drivable.  (I
realize that with most modern internal combustion engines the
scenario I just mentioned is unlikely).

So with a suitable transmission, and a willingness to put the
engine in the right RPM range, the 300 HP engine will out
accelerate the 200 HP.  Probably.  Though torque curves,
transmission ratios, RPM limits, etc. really muddle things.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Test 4

2014-08-01 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
Randy, your issue is the fault of your email client.  

Your user agent is shown as
Mozilla/5.0 (Windows NT 6.1; WOW64; rv:24.0) Gecko/20100101 Thunderbird/24.6.0

A couple other headers:
From: Randy Bennell via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sender: Mercedes mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
Reply-To: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca,
 Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com

So apparently your Thunderbird is using the header Sender and not
From in the listing.  There may be a way to change that.  At
least, that's where I'd start looking, 'cause the information _is_
in the email.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT - electric vehicle

2014-08-02 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 OK wrote:
 
 as if there are no emissions from the generation of that
 electricity in the first place. Very irresponsible reporting.

But typical.  Nay, not just typical but so common as to be nearly
guaranteed!

Better called,  remote emission rather than zero emission - but
who really expects _truth_ from the media...

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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh

2014-08-04 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Curt wrote:
 
 VCDS (the VW checking software) says its the shutoff solenoid,

 The shutoff solenoid lives on the top of the IP and does what it
 says it does. Mine reads direct to ground with the wire removed,
 I'm going to say thats a bad one. 

I really like the way the Cummins 14L BigCam engines do it.  Power
to the solenoid allows fuel to flow - but there is a thumbscrew on
the end that can be turned which hold the fuel valve open even with
no power.

On my 123s, I have a few times disconnected the vacuum line so the
engine won't shut off.

I'm trying to figure out a way to accomplish that with my 6.2L
Detroit...

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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh

2014-08-05 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
  Fmiser wrote:
 
  On my 123s, I have a few times disconnected the vacuum line so
  the engine won't shut off.
 
  I'm trying to figure out a way to accomplish that with my 6.2L
  Detroit...

 MG wrote:
 
 Simple. Disconnect the original cutoff wire on the injection pump 
 and put in a separate switch from power to the shut off solenoid. 

Well - almost.  I'm wanting a way to keep it running _without_
electricity.  The engine is fully mechanical with only the fuel
solenoid and the glowplugs/starter requiring electric power.

I'm wanting a mechanical override to keep the engine running even
if the solenoid or electric system fail.

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Re: [MBZ] OT printers

2014-08-05 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Randy wrote:
 
 Canon inkjet printer - multi ink tanks type
 
 Has been sitting for a year or more

I'm pretty sure the Canon printer cartridges include the print
head.  So new cartridges should solve all dried ink problems.
Presuming the mechanicals are still okay.

--  Philip

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[MBZ] OT - storing small parts

2014-08-10 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
The supply seemed endless, even though I well knew it wasn't.
Nevertheless, while the cardboard box is not quite empty yet, it
will be soon...

And then - when the last 35mm film canister is gone - what will I
use to store small parts?  I never had very many of the metal ones,
but those are quite nice.  The plastic ones - both Kodak style and
Fuji style - are keeping many dozens of things safe and organized
around here.

All those years of saving all my canisters.  Think of all those
rolls of film, and all those photos! Well, except for bulk loaded
rolls.  And somehow I have used them.  I even have a couple
salt/pepper shaker tops for the Kodak canisters.

I have been on the lookout for a replacement, but I haven't
stumbled onto anything yet.  Soon it could be a crisis.

Meanwhile, how do you folks store lawnmower needle valves,
or tire valve stem cores, or #2 screws, or ear plugs, or safety
pins, or a bit of grease to carry in the tool box, or the pieces
that fell out of the zoom lens when it failed?

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Sacrilege

2014-08-11 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
  Curt Raymond wrote:
 
  At the Nissan dealership to drive pickups yesterday I talked
  him into letting us drive the Nissan Leaf electric car. 

 Randy wrote:
 
 If, all of you folks down south of the border were to get
 electric vehicles, your electric grid would not be able to handle
 the load.

Maybe.  But if the recharge is set to occur over-night, that is
when the power plants would like a bit more load to even out the
demand compared to daytime use.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Sacrilege

2014-08-11 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
   Curt Raymond wrote:
  
   At the Nissan dealership to drive pickups yesterday I talked
   him into letting us drive the Nissan Leaf electric car. 
 
   Randy wrote:
   
   If, all of you folks down south of the border were to get
   electric vehicles, your electric grid would not be able to
   handle the load.

   Fmiser wrote:
  
  Maybe.  But if the recharge is set to occur over-night, that
  is when the power plants would like a bit more load to even out
  the demand compared to daytime use.

 Curt wrote:
 
 Its not like everybody could run out and buy a new car tomorrow
 anyway. As load ramps up our electric utilities will be forced to
 add line capacity. 

That's fine on paper - but the EPA is making it really difficult to
get _any_ new generators built.  Around here they have been trying
to add base-load capacity but either can't or
can't-because-it's-to-expensive.

 Around here theres a LOT of solar coming in which will reduce the
 load on the heavy wire grid by making neighborhoods more self
 sufficient. 

 During the day you produce solar which powers Northfield mountain
 to pump water from the Connecticut river up into a huge lake
 where the took the top off the mountain. At night the water flows
 back down and makes electricity. Essentially a huge battery...

And there is the issue with solar - and wind.  It can never be a
significant fraction of the base load generators because it isn't
dependable.  Nor can it be used for on-demand peak load.  Using a
mechanical battery is a really good way to make average capacity
meet unpredictable demand, but EPA gets their grubby fingers into
that pot too.  I think they were reason a system like that in south
central Missouri was _not_ repaired.

Still, every Watt generated some way other than fossil fuel is one
Watt less that must come from fossil fuel.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Sacrilegious talk about white man magic

2014-08-13 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Andrew wrote:
 
 If you coast downhill in an EV does that recharge the battery?

Coasting?   No.

Braking - yes, at some level.  Those of us who are familiar with
driving an internal combustion engine are familiar with engine
braking caused by the restriction of air passing through the
engine.  This level of braking is almost always regenerated in an
electric.

It's possible to get almost the same amount of negative
acceleration as positive acceleration in an electric vehicle, so
on some the service brake (activated with the pedal) will
regenerate up to that point.  On almost all vehicles, the brake
system is more capable than the thrust system so all modern
electric vehicles that I know of also have friction brakes when
more braking power is needed than can be developed by the
regeneration process.  The friction brakes just turn motion into
heat.

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Re: [MBZ] Liquid Penetrants

2014-08-16 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Jerry wrote:
 
 I have come to appreciate the benefits of applying  penetrants
 such as Liquid Wrench prior to dismantling  metal fasteners

 I have had little success with stubborn handles (on a splined
 shaft) despite applying Liquid Wrench over a period of days and
 using a puller intended for the purpose. Applying too much force
 usually results in breaking the faucet handle. Could it be that
 this type of product won't penetrate in this area?

It probably has more to do with the type of metal.

That is, the corrosion from on brass, bronze, pot metal,
magnesium, etc is different than that of iron.

And I'm not very fond of Liquid Wrench.  Kroil and automatic
transmission fluid plus acetone are better.  Heat could also be
helpful - but be careful.  The above metals melt before they are
hot enough to glow.

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Re: [MBZ] Reworked Web Site

2014-08-18 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Dan wrote:
 
 Take a look at my work in progress web site at www.meuxette.com

 Constructive comments and criticism are welcome.

Okay...  Fair warning - I'm opinionated and blunt. Please don't
take it personal.  *smiles*

The image is a png.  I like png files - but for photos they are
large files.  516K for a 700x400 px image.  Saved as a very high
quality jpeg, it is less than 90K.  And it still looks okay for
this application compressed to 30K.  It even appears to have been a
jpeg, as I can see jpeg compression artifacts.

Smaller size with no perceivable quality loss is always good - even
if you don't notice or care about the smaller size.

But that's about all I can comment on as the link to apple is the
only link on the page.

Oh.  I see.  Looking at the source, I see the navigation is
javascript only.  *grumble*

{waits for page to reload after allowing javascript)

Seems you are using javascript for plain HTML-type links.  More
data to download = slower = more data used.  But no functional
benefit that I can see.  Is there a reason you are doing simple
page linking with javascript?  

Although the menu is text, the text doesn't change color to
indicate which links I have already visited nor is the text
underlined and colored blue like a link should be.

The Welcome menu item is a link to the home page - where I
already am.  I would find it would be helpful if it were dead
text.  

The contrast between the dark gray you are here and the light gray
you could go here isn't enough.  I have to look closely to see
which is which.

You are using pixel, not em, or percent for size - which is far
less adaptable for different browsers, screens, and font sizes.  

  Cars section

I like the photo for the car ID.  The chassis code could be handy
(S123, W124, etc)

Is there an order to the cars?  Manufactured year?  Ownership order?

I found two pages that the page title is Text.
http://www.meuxette.com/meuxette.com/1979_300TD.html
http://www.meuxette.com/meuxette.com/1991_300E.html

 Photos section

Basic navigation is broken, replaced by a javascript kludge.  I
really, really, really, dislike any website that forces me to
navigate _only_ the one way the developer decided to use.  If I
were just a visitor to your site, I would give up and leave (at
least the photos section) because of how the navigation _STINKS_.
The javascript prevents me browsing my way. Examples: Can't opening
a photo in a new tab.  The back button doesn't work. copy image
location doesn't.  And after all that, the big picture that
(sometimes) eventually shows isn't very big.

So - in summary.  
 + The layout is clean and uncluttered.  
 - Contrast between the text and the white background is a bit low.  
 + The pages are pleasantly free of junk, blinking text, wild
   colors, excessive links.
 - The front page photos could easily be a jpeg and be smaller.
 - Javascript required for simple navigation
 - The big photos are so small I have no incentive to put up with
   the dreadful photo album javascript nav.

If I were a visitor (and not reviewing at your request), I would
not have ever gotten past the first page (since it required
javascript) unless I had some insider scoop that there was
something worth digging for.  Once in, the cars section is okay.
But the only reason I would endure the photos page is if I were
_really_ desperately - say, looking for a (rare) photo.

And that is _my_ opinion. :)

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT button cell batteries

2014-08-18 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Allan wrote:
 
 Are the button type batteries of a size all the same? I have an
 old stopwatch which doesn't have a battery installed. Will any
 battery that fits work?

Probably.

There are a few odd ones that are 3V, or such.  But for the most
part, the physical size is all that really matters.  There may be a
capacity difference, but that isn't usually a big deal.   Oh - be
sure to check the height, as there are a number of the most commons
sizes that differ only in height.

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Re: [MBZ] Reworked Web Site

2014-08-18 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Jim wrote:

 There's a lot to be said for NON-wysiwyg, aka wisiwiw,
 using something like emacs.  The learning curve is a
 bit steeper, but there are no surprises and you're
 in complete control of everything.  A browser refresh
 is fast, and that's all you need to see if a change
 came out right or not.

 You can lay out a few dummy pages using a tool whose
 output you like, then view the source to see what is
 going on and model your edits after that.
 
 It's surprising how messy the output of such tools
 can be.

I use emacs.  But I have found bluefish and html-kit to be helpful
because the tag names are all listed conveniently.  You still write
markup - but with a crutch. *smiles*

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Re: [MBZ] OT: On Attaboys

2014-08-21 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Curt wrote:
 
 We've been going through this with Angie's business, she's
 learning how to give the attaboy (or attagirl as the case may me)
 to her staff. She tells me They know they're appreciated to
 which I ask did you tell them?
 
 Its actually one of the complaints I have about where I work, the
 head pats are infrequent and inadequate. Thanking a team for
 their good work isn't the same as thanking the team members each
 for their input.

Yeah.  But it can be overdone too.  One thing I find worse than
silence is an attaboy for every little task especially when it's
doled out without merit by someone without a clue.  Hand them out
too freely and they will loose value.  Say it and not mean it and
it will be meaningless.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: CB Radios

2014-10-06 Thread Fmiser via Mercedes
 Craig wrote:

 Does anyone still use CB radios anymore?

Yeah - I have a CB radios - and use em.

 Rich wrote:

 Just buy some of those little hand-held radios, they are cheap and some have 
 quite
 good range, certainly enough for car-car.

Those little FRS radios work, but are a pain because they aren't loud
enough and
the range is crummy with the tiny antenna inside the car.  You can be
out of range
before the car is out of sight.

 Craig wrote:

 Any suggestions on antennas?

There are magnet mount antennas that are quick and easy to install.
With CB, 1/4 wave is _long_ (11 meter wavelength) so in general a longer
antenna is a better one.  But with magnet mount, too long means it's prone
to wind un-mounting. *smiles*

Wilson makes good antennas, if you are wanting to invest.
http://www.amazon.com/WILSON-305-38-300-Watt-Little-Antenna/dp/B001AAT94W/

For short term, one trip I'd just get something that isn't expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Midland-18-2442-Mobile-CB-Antenna/dp/BATNH3/
www.amazon.com/Cobra-HG-Base-Load-Small-Antenna/dp/B5N5X1/

Be aware the rental truck _may_ have a fiberglass (or other
non-metallic material)
body that a magnet won't stick to nor will act as a ground plane for
the antenna.
There are balanced antennas, often called no ground plane antennas
available - but
that doesn't help with the mounting.

 Is there any benefit from contact with truckers (road conditions, et al.)
 that CB radio would afford?

Maybe.  Almost every big truck has a radio.  In the last few years,
most of those
seem to be turned off.  It's becoming rare to find a driver with his
radio on.  But if
there is trouble (congestion, lane closed, etc) the band becomes
active.  Finding
out which lane is close, or how long the backup, etc can be handy.
Channel 19 is the the highway channel pretty much everywhere except the
west coast.

A agree with Jim that the Uniden 510 is a good radio.  It's one of my favorite
small-form CBs.  It's big brother the 520 has more control, but is hard to find.

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Re: [MBZ] That idling diesel sound

2014-10-11 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Rich wrote:
 
 We should make one of a Benz diesel

Hmm.  Maybe I will.

 http://truckyeah.jalopnik.com/you-can-finally-sleep-like-a-trucker-with-this-diesel-e-1644019215

Ahhh.  For those who have slept to that sound...  But it's really
more than just the sound, the bed needs to vibrate a bit too.  Then
add a touch of raw diesel smell and occasional whiffs of direct
injection diesel exhaust and the illusion would be complete.  Well,
almost.  Let's just leave out the lot lizard knock on the door.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Shotguns

2014-10-28 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 G wrote:
 
 I grew up with full access to the family machine shop, which was
 equipped to build just about anything. Being inventive, I came up
 with the idea to make a carbide cannon.. carbide being an easy
 source of acetylene gas, which delivers excellent explosive
 energy.

 Shortly my neighbor arrived in his pickup truck.. shall we say...
 very upset?  His dairy farm was 1 1/4 miles away and we had
 managed to deliver the concrete filled beer can through the roof
 of his milking barn.. with a barn full on cows, at milking
 time...  [can you start counting how many bad decisions it took
 to do that?]

 All members of the cannon shooting club were given the task of
 rebuilding the neighbors barn.. and buying the materials to do
 the job, with a strict time schedule. Which we did.

And thus you each learned there is a consequence and responsibility
for chosen actions - something that seem lacking in current USA
culture.

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Re: [MBZ] Misfires, dying

2014-10-31 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Jim wrote:
 
 The 560 SEL has been running worse and worse lately.
 Intermittently. Feels like a misfire at low RPM's, it's pretty
 much fine when revved up.  It's back to dying at times when
 trying to start out.  I believe I smell gas when it's acting up.

 I'm thinking bad connection in the ignition system.  Somewhere.
 That covers a lot of ground, including the ignition switch, fuses,
 common ground points.  Also a whole lot of the innards of things
 like the ignition module, coil, etc.  (In April I put in new plugs
 and spark wires.)

On my '72, I rigged an LED injector indicator in the cabin.  One
LED per injector channel.  I was able to watch the injectors firing
and when it misfired I was able to prove it was fuel not ignition.

 I hate gas cars.

Heh - agreed!   

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Tire pressure gauges

2014-11-05 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Craig wrote:
 
 What is your favorite pressure gauge?

 What type is it (stick, dial, digital, etc.)?

My favorite for the garage is one I built from a dial gauge and a
straight Schraeder fitting.  But the glass dial face doesn't travel
so well. (The glass is currently held together with shoego)

I also like my dual foot stick, necessary for dual wheel - but it
also reads to 120 lb/in^2 (PSI) so it works for my load range E and F tires.

 How accurate is it? (I'll confess to being a stickler about
 accuracy.)

How do I tell?  None of them are certified traceable to NBS.  I'm
less concerned about accuracy as repeatability.  I want the
pressures to match more than be a particular number - that changes
with temperature.

 What is its range? (I'm getting new trailer tires which take 65
 psi.)

I have one that the top reading is about less 2 bar - for things
like lawnmower tires.  The dial max is 100 lb/in^2 (PSI) [about 7
bar]

 Or do you just not care?

I'm pretty good with a tire thumper, boot, or just my eye - but
when I drag out the compressor hose I nearly always use a gauge.

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Re: [MBZ] OT another video question

2014-11-06 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Randy wrote:
 
 Is it possible to save video from Youtube?

Yes.

I use youtube-dl, a python program.  I use it on Linux.  I use it
for all my youtube viewing because of the poor performance of my
internet connection.

http://rg3.github.io/youtube-dl/

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: Today's CL Crack Smoker

2014-11-09 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Craig wrote:
 
 It did, however, inspire a wild idea: Purchase a tractor and
 trailer and use those to move to Indiana. Then I could have
 another source of income once I got there.
 
 I'm sure there are many requirements to this that I don't know. I
 think such vehicles need to be inspected, but I'm not sure.
 Beyond that, how hard could it be?  :-)

If it's not a commercial vehicle, (for hire) then it's a lot
simpler.  Maybe you could register and license it as an RV.  Then
you wouldn't need any special license and the rig would be exempt
from fuel tax permits, etc.  In many states you could even bypass
the scales.  I'd be sure to have my papers proving it should the
scalemaster send anyone after you for missing the scale house.

And you'd learn what slow really means.  A 240D with an automatic
transmission will outrun 'most any big truck in a drag race.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: Today's CL Crack Smoker

2014-11-09 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Craig wrote:
 
  I'm sure there are many requirements to this that I don't know.
  I think such vehicles need to be inspected, but I'm not sure.
  Beyond that, how hard could it be?  :-)

 Dan wrote:
 
 CDL, interstate road taxes, insurance, etc.
 
 Being an owner-operator is not a terribly profitable job.

Generating income after the move is a different topic than a
private haul.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] The force of a star - was OT: Onsite fabrication of taller wind turbines

2014-11-12 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 G wrote:
 
 Mercedes content:  If I put a Mercedes star on my ice boat, will
 it go faster?

Yes!  Of course it will!

But - where are you using an ice boat?  On the frozen sunshine on
the back 40?

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 1983 300TD W123 Balky Starter

2014-11-18 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Andrew wrote:
 
 I'm leaning toward a used starter off a 60,000 mile 240 D with a
 6 month warranty from PG Auto.  Unless someone can personally
 recommend a good brand of remann'ed starters.

The original OM616 starters don't spin fast enough for a OM617.
They physically interchange, so Q told me half a dozen years ago
that all replacements starters are technically OM617.

But if you get a used, original starter for a OM616 you may be
disappointed.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 1983 300TD W123 Balky Starter

2014-11-18 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Andrew wrote:
 
 I'm leaning toward a used starter off a 60,000 mile 240 D with a
 6 month warranty from PG Auto.  Unless someone can personally
 recommend a good brand of remann'ed starters.

Do what you want - but years ago Q told me the OM616 starters
weren't quite as powerful as the OM617 turbo.  Since their form
factor is interchangeable, and to simplify the parts stream, all
replacement starters (he sold, anyway) are suitable for the OM617
turbo.

Thus I would suspect an low-mileage OM616 with an original starter
may have disappointing performance on an OM617 turbo engine.

--   Philip


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Transcoding LPs to Digital

2014-12-03 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Greg wrote:
 
 We have an eclectic collection of LPs of all types of music.

 ... then saved them to MP3 files

 Since I am a rank beginner at doing this, I am curious if any of
 you have experience with this activity to share.

Yeah.  Don't use MP3, certainly not for archive master.  If you
must, use no less than 256 KB/s. 

Anything I care about the sound quality I save the master as a FLAC
file  (lossless).  Audacity should do that natively. I then use ogg
Vorbis as the small-size, lossy distribution format, though for
some I don't bother and just use the FLAC.

I prefer my digital copy to be a full archive, so I do a bit more.
My goal is copy of the full LP as it was on vinyl, plus photos of
the jacket, plus track timing and metadata for later splitting.
All this can be included in the FLAC file so I end up with one and
only one file for each LP that I can extract any of the metadata
parts for further or future processing.

So I record the entire LP as a single file, then (with snapping
sot to CD Frames I use Audacity's Label Track to mark the
beginning of each song/piece/section.  The label track is exported
to create a text file with track timing information.  I made a bash
(*nix shell) script that converts this to a CUE file.

Some recordings get two CUE files with different timing
information.  For example, I don't it when my playback system (set
to random) chooses to play only one movement from a short classical
piece.  So I create a CUE file that keeps these together.  But if I
burn a CD, I want to be able to use next to jump to a movement so
I also want a CUE file with each movement separate.

I then insert all the metadata into the FLAC.  I can then use
shnsplit to make the one long FLAC file into file-per-track for CD
burning and split2ogg to make a tagged ogg file-per-track for
distribution (iPod, etc).

I use an old Linn turntable, a Fisher tube amp, and a stand along
USB preamp to do the initial recording.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Transcoding LPs to Digital

2014-12-03 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Curly McLain wrote:
 
  The EAC would be used in place of Audacity?‎

 Rick wrote:
 
 In addition to. Audacity is used to create wav (analog) files
 from the vinyl records. EAC (Exact Audio Copy) is used to convert
 the wav files to mp3, flac, etc. digital files. I have used EAC
 for converting (ripping) cd's to digital form. I have not used it
 to convert wav files from vinyl, but I am pretty sure it can be
 done. 

No point in that.  Audacity can export an FLAC.  EAC excels in
ripping CDs.  

I don't like using Audacity for recording, but it works - and
playing an LP is a very repeatable action if the Audacity recording
fails.

 Currently Greg is using Sound Forge software to convert the
 analog files to digital. 

No, he is using the turntables A/D converter to make the analog
into digital files and recording them in Audacity.  He then makes a
digital copy and edits that in Sound Forge.  Finally, he's using
Sound Forge to compress it to an MP3.

--   Philip, sending this to Rick and Curly 'cause he don't think 
 the list is letting his messages through.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Transcoding LPs to Digital

2014-12-04 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curly wrote:
 
 If you want to store the files on a hard drive, and never need to 
 make a cd or dvd, (or mp3 player) wouldn't it be possible to save
 the file as a .wav analog file and play that on demand?  Or is
 the .wav way to big to do this?

You could.  But a FLAC is a smaller file plus has provision for
metadata like jacket art, CUE files, comments, full jacket text,
replay gain, and the typical tags like composer, record date,
performer, track number, etc. that .wav lacks.

 It seems to me that other than file size, the .wav might be the 
 closest in quality to the original vinyl.

FLAC is lossless - unlike ACC, MP3, and  OGG (vorbis) - so in is
the same audio quality as a .wav.

 I had not heard of this flac file type before.  I gather it is a 
 digital more or less equivalent to the .wav file.

Pretty much.   You could also zip a .wav (or aiff) to save space.
But I'm not aware of any music players that will play a zip file.
FLAC is just as loss-less as zip - but it can be played by many
audio players.  And it (like OGG vorbis) is an open format, with no
patent encumbrances.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Transcoding LPs to Digital

2014-12-04 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 OK wrote:
 
 Does anyone have the answer to Curly's question?

Yes.  I'm just slow. *smiles*

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Transcoding LPs to Digital

2014-12-04 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Greg wrote:
 
 Much of our collection other than classical music has been rode
 hard and put away wet.  The audio restoration software of Sound
 Forge produces a remarkable improvement in the listenability of
 these LPs.

A step I forgot to mention is to wash the LP.  Use dish soap, warm
water, and fingers to scrub the crud off.  I try to keep the center
label dry so it is less likely to come off.  Also, keep the
scrubbing action fairly light and parallel to the groove.

Playing the LP wet can make an amazing improvement in surface noise
 - but the water will creep up the stylus and can damage the
cartridge so I play mine dry.  I happen to have a vacuum record
cleaner so I use that, but a paper towel or a cleaning brush works
okay.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Transcoding LPs to Digital

2014-12-04 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  OK Don wrote:  
 
  Keep us informed of your progress - I have a
  bunch of 78's to digitize, as well as some LPs, but haven't
  gotten started yet. Perhaps someday when I get bored . . .

 Rich wrote:
 
 Audacity will take a 78 played at 45 and turn it into the proper
 speed. I ripped some old 78s I got at a yard sale on my turntable
 that only does 33 and 45, nothing particularly interesting, but
 it worked OK.

The EQ won't be quite right.  Close, though.  78's use a different
playback EQ than 45 and LP.  Audacity can fix that too, I don't
happen to know off the top of my head what the EQ stetting would
need to be...

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] way OT - Fence charger repair

2014-12-06 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 David wrote:
 
   Oh wise list members.  Perhaps one of you can identify an 
 electronic component for me.

   Everything looks good inside except, as shown in the
 attached photograph, a small dull red pill apparently
 overheated.  It is in line from the recently blown fuse to a
 transformer.  It is attached in the circuit via a plastic block
 of four set screws that clamp rather than solder the wires
 together and all was covered by a plastic sheath.  When I took
 out the pill it fell apart.  It is marked R270 and below that, CM
 56.  Does anyone know what this item might be?

Almost certain that is a capacitor.

The tan-ish/yellow-ish ones look much more like an MOV.

Another BIG clue is how it's wired.  You said in line with the
fuse and transformer.  Series?  Parallel?

Attached is a quick sketch showing the difference.

R270 could mean a 27 pico farad, 15%  capacitor.  I can't come up
with a good reason why there would be one before the transformer...

If it's an MOV (which I expect it is NOT), it will have to be in
parallel.

--  Philip
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Re: [MBZ] way OT - Fence charger repair

2014-12-06 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 David wrote:
 
   Oh wise list members.  Perhaps one of you can identify an 
 electronic component for me.

   Everything looks good inside except, as shown in the
 attached photograph, a small dull red pill apparently
 overheated.  It is in line from the recently blown fuse to a
 transformer.  It is attached in the circuit via a plastic block
 of four set screws that clamp rather than solder the wires
 together and all was covered by a plastic sheath.  When I took
 out the pill it fell apart.  It is marked R270 and below that, CM
 56.  Does anyone know what this item might be?

Almost certain that is a capacitor.

The tan-ish/yellow-ish ones look much more like an MOV.

Another BIG clue is how it's wired.  You said in line with the
fuse and transformer.  Series?  Parallel?

Attached is a quick sketch showing the difference.

R270 could mean a 27 pico farad, 15%  capacitor.  I can't come up
with a good reason why there would be one before the transformer...

If it's an MOV (which I expect it is NOT), it will have to be in
parallel.

--  Philip
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Re: [MBZ] way OT - Fence charger repair

2014-12-06 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Dan wrote:
 
 Looks like an MOV, or metal oxide varistor.
 
 MOVs are a form of semiconductor device that act like a sponge,
 so to speak, and prevent voltages above a certain threshold to be
 “clamped” or absorbed by the MOV.

Sorry Dan, I can't leave that one alone.

An MOV is better described as a switch.  A very fast switch that
turns itself on above particular voltage and turns back off when
below that voltage.

Thus it doesn't absorb anything!  It simply shorts the line to
prevent the voltage from getting high enough to cause damage.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curly wrote:
 
 
 I have internet from the cable company, but no cable tv.  Since
 the cable company can run tv and internet over the same cable in
 the house, is there a way I can take a coax from the antenna, and
 put that in the coax with the internet?

Technically - yes.  Practically - probably not.


 We installed coax over the whole house in 2001 (along with a lot
 of cat 5 so ethernet is available almost anywhere in the house.)

Is all that coax connected to a distribution system - 
Amps/splitters/taps/etc?   If so, you should be able to feed the
antenna into the input of the distribution and have it show up
everywhere.

Or does it at least all home run to/from  one location?  If so,
you could still feed the antenna to this hub location but only
hook up the lines you are using.

 I have tried running multiple coax from one MAKE.com antenna, but 
 that does not work.  

 The reservation I have about that is that what I found before was 
 that if the cable was not continuous from the antenna to the tv,
 the signal was lost.  Even one splitter or coupling was enough to
 lose the signal.  I am not sure a signal amp would prevent that
 with the digital signal.

That doesn't make sense... A connector shouldn't degrade the signal
_that_ much.  A splitter should decrease the signal strength at the
TV by 3 dB - which isn't very much.

A small amp is typically 7-12 dB which should be more than enough
to compensate for the splitter losses.

Oh - and the best place for the amp is as close to the antenna as
you can practically put it.

 Back in the flat cable days, an antenna signal amp/splitter, and
 I could run flat cable all over the house.

That can be done with coax too.  Coax has higher loss per foot than
twin-lead - but coax is much less susceptible losses caused by
nearby metal.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT: OTA TV Question

2014-12-07 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Rick wrote:
 
 I am right between Chicago and South Bend. I need two antennas to
 receive broadcasts from both cities. Can I use a coax splitter as
 a combiner? I have looked for a combiner and I can't seem to find
 one. ‎

No.

If there are no channel overlaps, it seems might work.  From a
electron point of view, a splitter is also a combiner.

But I know that if I wanted to add one channel to an existing
stream it requires a channel inserter to work right.  Just a
splitter/combiner won't do.

But splitters are cheap - so you could try it anyway.  A switch -
or an antenna rotor will fix you up.

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Re: [MBZ] Nother OT TV question (signal)

2014-12-07 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curly wrote:
 
 I saw the cheapest 75 to 300 ohm antenna converters on fleabay
 are $4.  Lowes has them for $4 with no wait.  Coax, however is a 
 different story.   $15 for 50' at lowes, and under 8 bucks on
 fleabay.
 
 Amp $20 at lowes.  $17 for the lease expensive 4 output (Same) on 
 fleabay.  not much saving there.

Take a look at MCM.  Product is usually reasonable, service has
been good, prices are decent.

http://mcmelectronics.com

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/30-2570
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/30-2167
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/33-4035
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/24-14605
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/33-2187

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Best Linux Distro

2014-12-11 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Dan wrote:
 
 I need to set up a Linux system on a laptop so I can run a Linux
 VM, probably VirtualBox.  I'm thinking Ubuntu, but I'm not
 partial to any one particular distro.
 
 This is just for training purposes, nothing long term.  I need it
 to be simple and easy to set up.
 
 Suggestions from the resident Linux geeks?

Pick one.  Any one. *smiles*

Ubuntu is usually easy and is up-to-date.  

Debian is usually pretty easy and is dependably stable and safe.

Fedora is usually pretty easy and works well.

http://distrowatch.com/ and 
http://desktoplinuxreviews.com/
will have a lot more info than I do!!

I happen to like apt, which is the package management tool used in
the debian-derived distributions.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Best Linux Distro

2014-12-11 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Meade wrote:
 
 I am a total newbie.
 
 I've been dabbling with Ubuntu running as a VM in VirtualBox,
 which for various reasons had no internet access.
 
 I found it beyond my meager IT skills to add any software beyond
 what came in the Ubuntu download.  In other words, I wanted to
 load PuTTY from a CD vice a download, and failed.
 
 I'm going to give Debian a shot next.

Unless you download more than just the first DVD, Debian may not be
any more successful than Ubuntu.

Without internet access, it's going to be a bit tricky to install
software.  You can use a .deb file from a download or CD - but
there are very often dependencies.  

This is the consequence of the open source method.  With the
proprietary method, almost all software must include everything it
needs to do it's job.   So the author has to write a code to talk
SSH, access the TCP/IP stack, make sounds, maybe even interface
with a keyboard.  

With open source, there is no need for every author to re-invent
the wheel - there is good software that can be used as building
blocks.  These are not included with the actual software title
because there is no reason to have more than one copy on a system.
A particular title is therefore dependent on these other pieces.  A
good package manager will make managing these dependencies (mostly)
easy.

On my system, PuTTY is dependent on libatk1.0-0 (= 1.20.0),
libc6 (= 2.7), libcairo2 (= 1.2.4), libfontconfig1 (= 2.8.0), 
libfreetype6 (= 2.2.1), libglib2.0-0 (= 2.16.0), 
libgtk2.0-0 (= 2.8.0), libpango1.0-0 (= 1.14.0), 
libx11-6 (= 0), putty-tools

If you don't have internet access, and these are not already
installed, it won't work.

So I would encourage getting the network working.  Networking is
one area I haven't ever had to fight with VirtualBox.  USB is
sometimes a problem,  the screen give me grief often, audio
playback usually works - except when it doesn't.

If internet really isn't an option, you can download more DVDs.
Debian 7 (Wheezy) has about 40 GiB of software available from the
official repository.  Nearly all of this you won't need!  But it's
there.  The official DVD images have the software ordered by
popularity, so it's very likely what you want will be on the first
couple disks.  Personally, I have a local copy of the official
repository on my LAN so any of the half-dozen or so computers I
have around here can quickly and easily download the software
without me having to shuffle DVDs.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Best Linux Distro

2014-12-11 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curt wrote:
 
 This was a few years ago but due to licensing issues Ubuntu
 didn't come with the capability to play most video files, this
 was a big problem for me as I wanted to use it for a media
 machine. IIRC at one point it couldn't even play mp3 files. With
 other distros there was a very easy method to get the essential
 codec pack but Ubuntu didn't support it. As I remember it was
 some major process to get video codecs installed.

That is the Debian default.  They are very deliberate about
free/open software.  But with Debian adding those codecs is as easy
as adding the non-official multi-media repository to list.  Then
all the latest and best of the very non-free stuff is available
completely within the package management system.  Which is _way_
easier than the old way of compiling from source all the software
AND the dependent libraries.

 I also remember terminal being difficult to find and having to
 sudo for just about everything.

But there _is_ a terminal.  And it's not watered down like MS-DOS
is.   

TIP:  If you don't like having to type sudo over 
  and over again, type sudo su and _become_ 
  root for a while.

--  Philip, who uses Debian daily

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Best Linux Distro

2014-12-11 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Curt wrote:
 
  I find Ubuntu very locked down. I've had better luck with Mint, 
  Mepis and Puppy which is what I'm typing this on right now...

 Curly wrote:
 
 Tell us more.  locked down how, or in respect to what?  I am
 planning to replace 4 windows xp desktops at a small company with
 ubuntu, then have them run an RDP client to terminal into the
 server.  I am thinking locked down in this case may be a good
 thing.  The plan is to use the client box as a dumb terminal,
 even though they are smart terminals.

X2Go works very well for this.  It is not actually a remote
desktop system, but it is kinda like one.  I'm using it at the
house. VirtualBox is the only thing I've found doesn't run from the
client.

Puppy is an odd fellow.  Kinda does it's own thing.  But it's one
of the best for small hardware.  I had a 486 laptop without
builtin ethernet than did just fine running Puppy.

Slackware, linux-from-scratch, and Gentoo are also a bit
different.  The rest of the Linux kernel distributions can be
grouped into two package management methods - Debian-type that
use .deb files and RedHat-type that use .rpm files.  And it's not
just the package manager, the types and locations of config files
tend to divide similarly.

--  Philip, wondering if he should cross-post to the Linux list

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Re: [MBZ] benz toyota

2014-12-13 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Rick wrote:
 
 I had a call from a friend who wants the engine from a spare 1982
 300d i have. He wants to put it in a toyota pickup .. he says
 there are kits, etc to do it
 
 i think they mate the benz engine to the toyota transmission
 
 he and a friend plan to do two of them over the next few months

There was a fellow here years ago that made a 4WD 300TD using a
Nissan pickup chassis.  As I recall, part of the reason he choose
Nissan running gear is the divorced transfer case - which means he
was using the Mercedes transmission.  I'm remembering he was
pleased with the result, despite grief from the purists. *smiles*

Nope.  Still can't remember his name...

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Re: [MBZ] Shop is filling up

2014-12-14 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Kaleb wrote:
 
  I leave the hoods up to cut
  down on rats nests.

 Mitch wrote:
 
 What happens if you put poison blocks next to the tires?

Poison _might_ diminish the rats population - but it will almost
certainly diminish their natural predators which can make the
problem worse.

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Re: [MBZ] Shop is filling up

2014-12-15 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  fmiser wrote:
 
  Poison _might_ diminish the rats population - but it will almost
  certainly diminish their natural predators which can make the
  problem worse.

 Mitch wrote:
  
 Death from secondhand warfarin poisoning?
 While I wouldn't choose to eat the flesh of a rodent that died
 from Warfarin myself, is it really that bad?

Maybe - maybe not.  

A fox, owl, or hawk will eat dozens of rodents, and they seek the
slow and weak ones - or poisoned ones.  If it eats a couple
poisoned rodent's it will likely die and now there is one less
predator eating dozens of rodents.


I don't fully agree with this article, but it has some data.
http://www.huffingtonpost.com/alison-hermance/wildcare-test-results-show_b_4907573.html

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Re: [MBZ] Anyone Near PHL Looking for a Project?

2014-12-16 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Dan wrote:
 
 http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/for/4802420703.html

Hey!  It's even listed as 5 cylinder!  

I'd call this a knowledgeable and trustworthy listing!!

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Re: [MBZ] Gas prices

2014-12-17 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curt wrote:
 
 Gas has been inching down here but diesel is holding rock steady,

This is the off-season for gasoline, but because diesel is similar
to heating oil this is the on-season.  So I have heard.

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Re: [MBZ] benz toyota

2014-12-19 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  fmiser wrote:
 
  There was a fellow here years ago that made a 4WD 300TD using a
  Nissan pickup chassis.  As I recall, part of the reason he
  choose Nissan running gear is the divorced transfer case -
  which means he was using the Mercedes transmission.
  
  Nope.  Still can't remember his name...

 Mitch wrote:
 
 Brian, maybe Brian Roth?

Yeah!  That's it!

I think you deserve an ATABOY for your memory.

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Re: [MBZ] OT White guys in white short sleeve shirts with short haircuts and slide rules

2014-12-21 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curly wrote:
 
 Speaking of advanced designs made by people with slide rules...
 
  From the 1930s
 
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daimler-Benz_DB_601#mediaviewer/File:Daimler-Benz-DB_601A.jpg
 
 Held records for quite a few years.   Also industrial art.

Reading the article, that engine has overhead cams - but it's an
inverted V, so really the cams are underfoot - or something...

Cool engine - but all those big aircraft engines are.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Video editing

2014-12-21 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 OK wrote:
 
 I'm looking for a free or low cost basic video editor for
 Windows.

I wonder if any of the editors I have on Linux also have a MSWin
port.  I have not looked.

kdenlive
cinelerra
openmovieeditor
openshot
pitivi
kino
avidemux - no disolves, can re-encode or not.

And I think I heard someone mention Free Video Editor which I
think also can do cuts without re-encoding.

I've heard good of VirtualDub, which I think is MSWin only.

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300TD Blows Ice Cold no matter how cold it is outside - even with the heat on!

2014-12-22 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Andrew wrote:
 
 Anyway, at idle there doesn't appear to be much difference in
 heat.  My tech is betting it's the monovalve, with the ACC module
 a close second.  I have a spare ACC module so will test this
 first before purchasing a monovalve.  I did notice that the
 faster I drove and the longer I was on the road, the colder it
 felt, but that may have been a cumulative effect...

The classic symptom of a torn monovalve insert is heat ONLY at low
engine RPM.  It is possible, but not likely, that a damaged insert
would cause no heat.  But it could be electrical failure.

I'd unplug the electrical connector on the monovalve and go for a
drive.  That is the full heat setting.  If there is still no heat,
it has to be the monovalve or the coolant flow.  If there is heat -
then it's the controller.

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: OT - A COUNTRY BOY REMEMBERS - R. J. WORKS FARM

2014-12-24 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 G wrote:
 
 What I find, on a daily basis, is the lack of ability to apply
 information using the principles of logic and moral character
 which our generation seemed to be given from birth.

I have to disagree.  It is learned, it is not somehow an intrinsic
trait.  Maybe _trained_ since birth - is that what you meant by
given?

 While our education system has grown to gargantuan proportions.

Hah!   Don't confuse education with schooling.  Our _school_
system is huge.  What it provides is clearly NOT much of an education.

The difference?  Education is the process and method of learning.
School is place to go, or a series of actions.  Sometimes they
happen together.  Seems quite often they _don't_.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300TD Blows Ice Cold no matter how cold it is

2014-12-24 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curt wrote:
 
 I'm also curious why my text comes back
 tiny in your replies but nobody elses...

Real email is plaintext. :)

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Re: [MBZ] Sikorsky - was: Christmas

2014-12-25 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Russ wrote:
 
  Had the pleasure of meeting [Sikorsky] about 5 years before he
  died. Very Interesting man, Have a autographed poster
  of him flying the VS-300 with his fedora firmly planted on his
  head.

 Curt wrote:
 
 Boy I'd like to see that picture...

Maybe it's this one?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Sikorsky_vs-300.jpg

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Re: [MBZ] An article that is truthful about electric vehicles

2014-12-30 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Craig wrote:
 
 There were places east of Colorado Springs that didn't get
 electricity until after WW2.

Aren't there places east of Colorado Springs that _still_ don't
have electricity?

That part of Colorado is _sparsely_ populated.

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Re: [MBZ] Grant's New Motorhome

2014-12-30 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Randy wrote:
 
 I have a similar story of my own but not for a motorhome.
 My 86 Taurus kept make growling noises but I could not see
 anything wrong with it.

 I had no tools with...

For shame!

 ... to buy the things I had not thought of earlier - hand
 cleaner, paper towel, a screwdriver, etc.

Wow.  You really were caught!

I have tools and those sorts of supplies even if I'm just hauling
wood half a mile [1 km] from the field.

 Got the pump on and returned the rental car by noon and headed
 for home.

Well, good for you!!!  I'll leave Wilton to give you the official
Attaboy.

Do you travel with a few more tools and supplies now?

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[MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-30 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
Four years ago I refreshed the clutch master cylinder pulled from
one of the parts cars to put in a 240 that I drive.  I could not
find any new rubber parts, so is wasn't really a rebuild - just a
bore hone and cleanup.  But it lasted four years.

And then it failed.  

And I really miss Q!

For those with a long memory, Curt had issues with his clutch not
long after I refreshed mine.  We compared notes.  Best I can tell,
the early cars have a long rod and the newer cars a short rod.  The
different in length is 5 mm.

I can't find an EPC that works for me, but via other methods, I
_think_ newer than chassis number 091119 needs the short rod -
probably part number 000-295-08-33.  The master cylinder part number
is 001-295-44-06.  What I suspect now, but couldn't prove before is
that the master cylinder always comes with the long rod and a short
rod has to be purchased if it is needed for a newer car.
Probably.  I think.

So I finally decide to purchase from MercedesSource, since they
ship with both rods.  What the website doesn't say is the
manufacturer.

Well, the one I got from them does have both rods.  In a TRW box.
With Lucas cast into the body of the master cylinder.  Uh oh.

It's very obvious my car needs the short rod. But a little closer
look suggests maybe even the short rod is too long...

Well, I install the master cylinder, making sure the adjuster
eccentric is at it's longest setting. The way to bleed the system,
and to set the eccentric, is to pressure bleed from the slave
cylinder.  I can't - because the piston is too far down in the
master cylinder and is blocking the supply port.  That is, the rod
is too long.  The _short_ rod is too long.

*sigh*

So much for TRW.

Another way to tell the rod is too long is in mounting.  If there
is fluid in the master cylinder, the rod (and piston) will move a
millimeter or two before the supply port is covered. At this point,
it becomes _very_ hard to press because any pressure is trying to
compress the clutch spring.

But the car is down, and it will be at least _days_ before I can
get something else.

So I choose to shorten the rod.  Careful measurements on the bench
between the new TRW and the old FAG shows the TRW to be 3 mm to
long.  But it's not the rod.  The rod is exactly the same length as
the old FAG - it's the position of the piston top that is too far
from the mounting bolt ears.

There is a ball form on the end of the rod.  I choose to try to
keep the radius of the contact with the piston about the same.  I
grind, file, sand, and polish the rod making it about 2 mm
shorted.  Nope - not enough.  I remove another 1 mm.  Now it
works.  A total of about 3 mm ground of the end of the rod to make
the TRW part work in my car.

The car is working properly - but I'm sure not happy with
MercedesSource for not listing the manufacturer and for choosing
TRW, which seems to be junk.

I sure miss the knowledge, support, and service Q provided.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Aladdin. Was: An article that is truthful about electric vehicles

2014-12-30 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 WILTON wrote:
 
 ... and the Aladdin lamp was significantly better than Abe's
 candle, I'm sure.

I sure like my Aladdin lamps!  Not as bright a pressure lantern
like the Coleman but the light is nice, not font to pressurize, and
it burns kerosine.

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-30 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Rick wrote:
 
 ‎Probably the best options for parts would be,
 
 1. Local dealer you are on a first name, chat over coffee, basis
 with. (discount$)

Nope.  The closest dealer is over 100 miles away.

 2. Gary at buyeuroparts dot com.

 Personalities aside, business is business. 

No way.  There comes a point where I choose to take my business to
a vendor who doesn't abuse me.

 3. The Mercedes Classic Center. I have heard that Tom Hanson (sp)
 knows his stuff. 

That's a possibility.  I have not yet done any business with them.

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Re: [MBZ] Aladdin. Was: An article that is truthful about electric vehicles

2014-12-30 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curt wrote:
 
 There are kerosene Coleman lanterns too.

I know. *smiles*  Rare as working ACC-I systems.  I'm keeping my
eye open for a Petromax.  Still need the font pressurized, though.

 Lately I'm into Tilly though. Weird little lanterns. I've got an
 Aladdin that Fred gave me, nice and quiet and frugal on fuel. At
 camp we've got a hot blast lantern

Tilly? Or Aladdin?  Or something else?

 I want to get a cold blast lantern as I've read that they put out
 a white light.

I too have read that the cold blast is whiter.  I don't remember
what brand lamp I was reading about, though...

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Fmiser wrote:
 
  Four years ago I refreshed the clutch master cylinder pulled
  from one of the parts cars to put in a 240 that I drive.  I
  could not find any new rubber parts, so is wasn't really a
  rebuild - just a bore hone and cleanup.  But it lasted four
  years.
 
  And then it failed. 
 
  And I really miss Q!

 Curly wrote:
 
 You will have to set yourself up as a shop/retailer.  THen you
 can order the worldparts stuff from Q.

Hey!  Now there's an idea!

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Fmiser wrote:
 

  Another way to tell the rod is too long is in mounting.
  If there is fluid in the master cylinder, the rod (and
  piston) will move a millimeter or two before the supply
  port is covered. At this point, it becomes _very_ hard to
  press because any pressure is trying to compress the
  clutch spring.

  So I choose to shorten the rod.

  I grind, file, sand, and polish the rod making it about 2
  mm shorted.  Nope - not enough.  I remove another 1 mm.
  Now it works.  A total of about 3 mm ground of the end of
  the rod to make the TRW part work in my car.

  The car is working properly - but I'm sure not happy with
  MercedesSource for not listing the manufacturer and for choosing
  TRW, which seems to be junk.

 Curly wrote:
 
 ATTABOY!

Thanks!

 I think I'd have done the same.

I've got pictures and a sketch with dimensions if anyone else
needs data.

 It may be possible to order the Clutch MC Kit form the classic 
 center.  

I'll have to look into that.

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Re: [MBZ] Again - was: Clutch master cylinder

2014-12-31 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
Huh?  Where is the problem?  Who is the instigator?

I wrote a description of my experience installing my clutch master
cylinder.   Someone replied with a list of recommended sources.

I replied to all three suggestions.  Local dealer, Gary,
ClassicCenter.  No one seems to have any issues with my comment on
not using the local dealer or ClassicCenter.  I also state my
reason for not using Gary.  This caused two - count them - two
replies.

  No kidding. I wonder how many people feel like this.

  100% agree.

Two opinion on the topic.  Then we have a few people who jump up
and start hollering!

 Why is this being brought up again?

 Blow it away, really, guys.  Don't be so thin skinned.

 Really.  Totally.

 Yes, indeed.

 Well said!  Get off it. 

Five posts.  For two people, one post wasn't enough! They had to
each make _two_ posts on it.  So Who is dragging it out?  Who is not
getting off it?  Who is stirring the pot? Sheesh!  Check the
mirror.  The mob that's shouting is more to blame than those they
are blaming.  Seems _I'm_ the one that should be saying,

Again? Come on!  Enough is enough!!  If you don't like it,
hit delete!!  If you have useful opinion - share it.  If not,
move on already.

Yeah, now I'va adding another post - and not one that is smoothing
and quieting.  Like the other times, I've now voiced my opinion.
I'm moving on.  Say what you want, argue all year, send hate
messages - whatever.  

*shakes his head and walks away*

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Re: [MBZ] Cash and fuel door learnings.

2015-01-26 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Curt wrote:
 
  I hate auto door locks, they ignore the fact that you might have
  the door unlocked for a reason

 Curly wrote:

 When i first started driving the company 99 grancara van I soon 
 learned to roll down the window if I ever got out and didn't take
 the key along.  That way IF the the stupid thing decides to lock
 itself, you can reach in and unlock it.

I carry my keys on two rings.  One has door keys, the other
ignition.  For cars like the Mercedes, those may be identical.  I
began doing that when I was driving trucks because I _did_ want to
leave the engine running and also lock the door.  It has proven
very handy in the many years since with my cars.

It also makes it easy to keep the ignition ring lightweight.

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Re: [MBZ] OT Tires

2015-01-26 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Andrew wrote:
 
 So what would be your favorite tire brand if you were a
 blindfolded passenger... ?



I have never been blindfolded in one of my cars, and I rarely am
the passenger - so why would that be a purchase criteria?  Just asking.

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[MBZ] Blower motor, W123

2015-02-08 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
For the last 6 months or so the heater blower motor has
occasionally been squeaking.  A few days ago it was clearly
getting worse.  Time to do something about it.

Seeing as I am a cheapskate, I didn't really want to spend the
money to buy a replacement unless it truly needed to be
replaced.  In a 123, the blower is so easy to get to I didn't
mind the prospect of getting to it repeatedly.

I pulled it out thinking I'd try automatic transmission fluid
to lubricate the bearings.  But the front bearing is behind
the impeller.  Since it is the one hard to get to, I expect it
is the one making noise.

I pulled the motor from the housing, thinking pleasant
thoughts about Mercedes for building these assemblies such the
_can_ be dis-assembled!  The impeller is just press fit on the
motor shaft, so one the housing was off it was easy to support
the motor by the impeller and with a drift punch separate the
motor from the impeller.

That was the end of the easy part.  The motor itself is not
held together with screws or bolts.  The bearing supports are
staked or swaged to the side.  Using a cold chisel and a drift
punch I bend bake the swaging and removed the front bearing
support.  The commutator was so worn by the brushes I had to
retract the brushes a bit to get the armature out.  The
magnetic field was also keeping the armature withing the
permanent magnet field.

I smoothed out the commutator a bit, used emery cloth to be
sure the bearing surfaces were smooth, greased the shaft, and
put it all back together again.  I used a cold chisel to
re-swaging the case to hold the bearing support.  This was a
bit tricking as the metal didn't seem to like being bent a
repeatedly.  I think it will hold - for a while anyway.

The motor ran quiet when I tested the motor before putting it
all back together again.  After re-assembling and
re-installing the blower it was still quiet.  Then the real
test - a four hour drive.  Quiet the whole time.

So I don't expect this is a truly long term repair as the
shaft at the bearing was pitted and the brushes are fairly
worn.  But maybe I'll get another couple years from it.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Outdoor Security - Wildlife Camera

2015-01-15 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curt wrote:
 
 Make sure you've got good sound recording so when they talk to
 each other and mention names you'll have them on record. 

CAUTION  In most states, such an audio recording is UNLAWFUL!

Unless at least one party in the conversation is aware of the
recording.  A posted sign on the door of a store seems to be
sufficient notice.

As always, check local laws.

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Re: [MBZ] alternator bolt?

2015-01-20 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Rick wrote:
 
 what do the teeth do on it? 

The teeth engage in a rack attached to the mounting bracket.
Turning the bolt causing the alternator to pivot - either to
tighten or loosen the belt.  Unless the mounting bracket isn't flat
so the teeth don't fully engage, or the teeth are wore off.

 do i have this on an 82 300td?

I think its only on the pre-'81 cars.  At least it lines up that
way on my cars.

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Re: [MBZ] IR Thermometer - was: OT 1992 Ford F-150

2015-01-16 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 G wrote:
 
 I suggest a trip to Harbor Freight for an infrared thermometer,
 item #60725.
 
 It has a red laser beam that is point and shoot. It will then
 read the temp in C or F [you pick] of what ever you point the
 laser at. It will tell you in seconds if you have hot water in
 the hose.

I sure like mine.  They are handy in the kitchen too.  How hot is
the tortilla skillet?

One thing to be aware of - the red dot is an aiming aid.  The
actual area over which the temperature is measured is _much_ larger
than the laser dot.  It is usually specified as a
distance-to-diameter ratio.

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Re: [MBZ] Libre Office?

2015-01-15 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  fmiser fez:
 
  OpenOffice was purchased by Oracle.

  So most of the clever people there got fed up with
  do-nothing and created a fork that is more
  open/free/libre.  This is called LibreOffice.

  So there are two.  Which is better?  I like the license of
  LibreOffice better.  But there is very little difference
  from the perspective of a casual user.  A power user may
  encounter some differences, but even those are fairly
  minor, so far as I can tell.

 Curly wrote:
 
 Libre office also
 
 1.  eliminates the necessity to have to fool with adobe reader
 2.  Writes to .pdf
 3.  has Draw installed, a Visio counterpart
 4. has a database as part of the office suite

All those features apply to OpenOffice as well.

 The pdf writing and opening is great.  Adobe keeps getting more 
 onerous to download reader without all the malware/ransomware
 pups attached to it.

For MSWin, I have been using SumatraPDF as a open/free PDF
reader and PDFCreator as a open/free writer (it installs as a
printer, so it works with any program that can print)

 It is much more robust than open office was when it was left to
 the backwaters of oracle.

That has not been my experience at all - but I have not use
the MSWindows port for many, many years, so that may account
for our different experiences.

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Re: [MBZ] OT XP question Yay Russ!

2015-01-14 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Curly wrote:

  big snip once people learn libre office and thunderbird, they
  they can learn *buntu and we will be away from the M$ desktop.
 
 Rick wrote:

 Good for you,(attaboy) and good for them. I had an Ubuntu program
 on my last box that moved the maximize, minimize, and close
 window buttons to the upper right hand corner of the open window,
 as opposed to the upper left. I will see if I can find it, and I
 will post a link. I had that machine's desktop setup darn near
 like an XP machine. 

If all you want is the window widgets to be similar, there are _so_
many to choose from one of 'em will be close.  

For the rest of the user experience, the session manager LXDE is
a lot like MSWin in layout and feel.  _I_ dislike it for that
reason - but others will likely think it feels comfortable.  It's
certainly more like classic MSWin than Gnome3 or Win8!

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Re: [MBZ] Libre Office?

2015-01-14 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Randy wrote:
 
 So, what is it?
 I did a quick seach and what I read suggested it is sort of an
 offshoot of Open Office.
 Is there a difference, and if so what advantages are there?

OpenOffice was purchased by Oracle.  Nothing had changed for a
_long_ time, which wasn't much of a surprise looking at Oracle and
open source software.  So most of the clever people there got fed
up with do-nothing and created a fork that is more
open/free/libre.  This is called LibreOffice.  At first, there it
wasn't as smooth - but it's good now.

Then OpenOffice was bought by Apache - who really does understand
(grok) open source.  It is now being developed again.

So there are two.  Which is better?  I like the license of
LibreOffice better.  But there is very little difference from the
perspective of a casual user.  A power user may encounter some
differences, but even those are fairly minor, so far as I can tell.

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[MBZ] Clutch master cylinder update

2015-01-22 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
An update to the saga.

A month ago I purchased a replacement clutch master cylinder
from MercedesSource.  The website did NOT list the
manufacturer - but it came with both a short and a long rod.

It came in a TRW box, and Lucas was cast into the body.  I
was not pleased. 

After installing the master cylinder using the short rod, I
determined by how it mounted and by the fact the system
wouldn't bleed that the rod was too long.  That is, the short
rod was not short enough.  Closer examination determined the
problem is really the top of the piston in the cylinder is too
high.

Rather than have the car out of service for many days as I
tried to find a proper part, I chose to modify the rod making
it short enough it would work.  I was successful - but it took
me an extra 4+ hours of effort.  

At this point, I was _very_ unhappy with MercedesSource.  I
let them know how unhappy I was, saying things like I'll buy
from Autohaus before I'll buy from you again.

And they responded!  Stood behind their product, apologized
for the trouble, promised to pester their supplier - and gave
me enough monetary compensation that I'm now quite satisfied.
MercedesSource is now very high on my list.  Any company
willing to put money behind the promise to keep customers
happy says to me they _are_ serious and really do care about
their products and reputation.  I'll still be very cautious
about the manufacturer, though.

--  Philip

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Re: [MBZ] (MBZ) '84 300D multi-purpose stalk

2015-01-28 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 G. wrote:
 
 what's the list's consensus regarding URO products?

What!??!??  Are you really asking that?

Check the archive.  Or read the list occasionally.

The opinion is Run!!!  Run away!!!

URO products would not be worth it if all you had to pay for was
the shipping.

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Re: [MBZ] Torsen Differential - was: Burnin' daylight

2015-01-24 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Scott wrote:
 
 I bought 2003 2WD Sonoma (same as Chevy S-10) from a neighbor's
 widow a few years back.  

 I bought a used Torsen unit but haven't installed it yet.

The torsen is great!  In most conditions, it will actually
outperform a locked differential.

 Questions/opinions:  (1) What experience do others have with
 limited-slip differentials vs 4WD.  And (2) should I try this
 Torsen install DIY or hire a pro to do the job?

Torsen AND four-whee-drive is king!  Adding a torsen is a lot
easier and cheaper than adding the front drive train, so for an
existing car, a torsen differential is a great upgrade.

 I have never done differential work (other than replacing 123
 half shafts) so I'm not confident about getting the
 pinion/ring-gear mesh right.  I've seen the photos of marking
 grease to show the gear contact but it seems one needs a shim kit
 for adjustments.

The ones's I've done it's shims and the crush washer.  I did my
first one without any experience. *smiles*  Having an experienced
hand to help is a good idea, but not required.  In my opinion.

  Also, it looks like you could do a lot of damage if the gears
 don't mesh right.

The damage is a noisy differential, I believe.  And once is
broken in, I don't think it's a good idea to change it - but I'm
not remembering for sure.

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Re: [MBZ] old pickups - was: Burnin' daylight

2015-01-24 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
   Randy wrote:
   
   I have to say that there is a world of difference
   between a new F150 Supercrew and a 60's Chevy pickup.

   I also had a 1968 C10 Chevy for about 24 years.  It was
   a good truck but not nearly so nice to drive and ride in
   as the newer ones are.

   Times have changed and although it is sometimes fun to remember
   the good old days, I personally think that vehicles have
   gained a whole lot in the past decade or two.

  Curly wrote:
  
  The cab comfort and ergonomics are better, but you should not
  need a stepladder to get into a pickup cab.  I can take any 60s
  pickup and make the cab MUCH more comfortable.  It is pretty
  simple, throw out the seat.  Install 60s to 80s volvo seats, or a
  bench from a newer truck.

  I can fix up a 60 pickup for less money than a new truck, and
  have a better truck that you don't need a ladder to get into.

 Curt wrote:
 
 No doubt you CAN fix up a '60s truck but I bet the money isn't
 right.

If money is the _only_ factor, then maybe - but I doubt it..
But what about durability, repairability, etc.  Don't forget
tax, insurance, license, etc.

 You'd still ought to have a newer engine.

Why?  Put an HEI ignition in the original engine, clean up the
carburetor, run ethanol fuel, and it will run a long, long
time with little other service.

 Have you driven a '60s pickup lately?

Yup.  A day or two ago. 

 Leaf springs are not a terrific design.

Mine has coil springs.

 My Dodge has struts up front and coils in the back which is
 probably how all the IFS trucks work although GM has used
 torsion bars for years.

No.  I don't know when they started using struts.  GM used
upper/lower A-frame with a coil spring since 1964 (or earlier)
up to when they switched to torsion bars about '89 or so. (it
switch with the body style, and the 1 ton, crew cab, and
suburbans switch a couple years after the others)

 I'm with Randy on this one, trucks of today are more
 powerful, more comfortable, more reliable and require
 way less maintenance than those of yesteryear.

Sorry Curt, I'm siding with Curly.  My '60 pickup (not a truck -
those are bigger) is more enjoyable, just as reliable, needs 
no more maintenance, and is way easier to service than 
any of the new ones.  Keep It Simple is a good principle 
for machines, I think.

 Yes they're very expensive but they last longer

Really?  Will your's still be driveable, serviceable, and
usable once it's more than 45 years old?  

 and have more resale value too. While I want an old truck as
 a toy, I sure wouldn't want to live with one as my only
 ride.

I have used mine as a daily driver.  
 + the heater is excellent
 + the wing windows are so practical
 + the manual crank windows are a pleasure
 + the clutch is _so_ precise and smooth
 + the transmission has long throws but is crisp and easy 
   to shift - or float
 + the non-original seats work well
 + visibility is great
 + big mirrors make backing, trailer monitoring, and lane
   changing easy
 - inside storage space is limited
 - seating more than four people is rather crowded
 - it's noisy
 - no diesel engine (yet...)

Not enough seats or enclose cargo space is what keeps it from
daily use now.  For many years now, it has been the fall-back,
always works, drive it when everything else has broken.  Not a
toy at all.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: '35 pusher motor home with GM 6.5 pickup diesel

2015-01-24 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 archer75--- wrote:
 
 Just got this from friend:
 
 Specs on the Engine:  190 HP at 3,400 RPM, GM 6.5 turbo, 380 ft.
 lbs. of torque at 1,700 RPM. The turbo is larger than (mechanic)
 had seen on that engine before.
 Transmission: Hydromatic 4L80-E, electronic transmission with
 overdrive.

That's the heavy duty transmission.  It's a good one.

 I wonder if anyone on the (diesel) list has driven
 that engine with a 14,000 G.V.W. setup.  I'd like to know if it
 could climb a mountain on the interstate.

Yes, it can.  I can't predict how slow it will be going up a 7%
grade, though.

 Assistance from you and the people on the diesel list is much
 appreciated, Gerry.

The forums at The Diesel Place is the best I've found for those
engines.

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/archive/index.php/f-21.html

A lot of good folks with good knowledge - but it's a web forum.


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Re: [MBZ] OT: '35 pusher motor home with GM 6.5 pickup diesel

2015-01-23 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 archer75--- wrote:
 
 Friend bought a '35 pusher motor home with a GM 6.5 pickup diesel
 engine. He plans to drive it nationwide including the west coast.
 Would that engine get it up the mountains; especially those on
 the west coast?

Yes.  Not very fast though.  If it's not turbocharged (most of the
6.5L were - but not all), it will be downright slow.  From the
factory, the 6.5 was rated 120 to 215 HP, depending on year and
configuration.

And the transmission will be a big factor in that a undersized
engine needs lots of gear ratios to make the most of the power it
does have.

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Re: [MBZ] Clutch master cylinder update

2015-01-23 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Philip wrote:
 
  ...That is, the short rod was not short enough.

 Mountain wrote:
 
 What year is the car?

The car is a very early '81.  The master cylinder that was in it
came from a very late '81.

 I thought the problem was that my 240D is an '84 euro.  We had the
 same problem.  Something in mfg specs is off.  My original part
 was obtained via buymbparts-historic.  My recollection is that
 Classic provided proper dealer part number and I sourced it at
 the dealer.

I had dealer part numbers.  I was hoping to buy a FAG or FTE, but I
was having difficulty determining whether the short rod was for
early or late, and is there a different part number for the later
master cylinder.  Based on my experience and the data I encountered
during the project, there is only one master cylinder available -
and it comes with the long rod for the older cars.  For the younger
cars that (best I can tell) require the short rod, a master
cylinder AND and short rod have to be purchased.  

 My son said - get the right part, or you do the job
 yerself

My biggest issue was the scarcity of information about the master
cylinder and rod - and the lack of manufacturer information on
MercedesSource website.  I had part numbers - but I wasn't sure for
what car that number was valid.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: U.S. Spies on Millions of Cars

2015-01-27 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  Craig posted:
 
  The Justice Department has been building a national database to
  track in real time the movement of vehicles around the U.S.

 Rich wrote:
 
 I also saw in this morning's paper that the po-pos were all bent
 because some google app lets people post the po-po's locations,
 and they feared this would lead to stalking of the po-pos and
 crazies going off on them or something.  So, their rationale that
 being in public and being monitored by citizens was Not
 Acceptable, but the DEA and whatever other po-pos can monitor
 citizens in public is OK.

Elitism.

We are superior, and it's our moral responsibility to monitor the
people so we can manage them.  Of course, since they are inferior,
they should have no such power.

This should surprise no one.

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Re: [MBZ] Oh my god

2015-01-05 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 G wrote:
 
 1. Engine seized, but I can get it running.
 2. Air blows ice cold.
 3. Hardly any rust [in the missing floor boards].
 4. It will buff right out. Slight parking lot dent in rear
quarter panels. 
 5. Original Mercedes paint. [where ever there is still paint] 
 6. Slight assembly required. I can show you where everything goes
[if I can find it after setting abandoned for the last
decade.] 
 7. Tires have high tread [just slightly dry rotted, but 
the hold air.]
 8. Firm on price, Only a few of these were ever made 
[and apparently the guy was burned at the stake]
 
 Did I leave anything out guys, or does this one get the Darwin
 Awards for most outrageous listing?

It's a W115 type - right?  The blower motor works fine - at
least it did 30 years ago.

Converted to a Chevy engine - but I can't seem to find the engine
and one of the old motor mounts is still in there, but it should
just bolt together.

It comes with a divider window.  It's in the truck, I think, and I
haven't ever seen the regulator for it nor has the body been
altered so there isn't a place to mount it yet.  I can show you
where it should go.

Please call - but I'm not including a 'phone number.

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Re: [MBZ] W123 Fuel Sending Unit

2015-01-05 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 G. wrote:
 
 I ordered the 0.202mm Nichrome wire and repaired both units.

From where did you order the wire?

Curious minds want to know.  Well, at least my mind wants to.

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Its coooold out there

2015-01-11 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curt wrote:
 
 I think there is some kind of physiological change that takes
 place. 

 Today its a toasty 23F, I went out and yanked the engine out of
 my snowmobile and didn't even feel chilled.

I was like that once.

Seems as the years increase, the ability to manage cold decreases.

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Re: [MBZ] OT - Best Linux Distro for P4 boxes?

2015-01-08 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Curly wrote:
 
 I am going to revive an old topic.  I tried loading the latest
 ubuntu on a P4 box, and it choked for 2 reasons.  14.04 requires
 a dvd... the installer sez the machine video won't support 14.04.

 I though one major selling point was that it did not require the
 latest hardware?

Ubuntu?  Probably not.  Linux (properly GNU/Linux) is not
much more specific than saying computer.  The are _so_ many
choices - in distributions as well as software.

If you are running on older hardware, you might not get to use
any distribution or any desktop.  GNOME3 is going to have
trouble with older hardware.

 So I get out the CD I made in 11-2013, whatever version that is.
 It installs and runs, but there is a big lag.  I was able to get
 the old windows files off the machine so that I can wipe the
 drive.  Windows XP choked for some reason.  it won't start up.
 Has been maybe 12-18 months since it was a clean install, and it
 was not used heavily or abused that I can tell.

Maybe there is hardware trouble?  I really like using live CD
to test hardware.  SystemRescue, GMRL, Knopix, etc.

 Is there a better linux to use for RDP connections to a terminal 
 server (2003 or 2008 winders)?  I am thinking the lag is because
 it installed with winders, and did not make a separate partition
 as red hat used to.

Probably not the fault of MS Win.

I'm quite familiar with Debian.  And by choosing XFCE or LXDE
as a session manager rather than GNOME or KDE the demand on
hardware - especially video hardware - will be a lot less.

I have a couple P4 vintage machines that run quite well with
Debian - but NOT GNOME or KDE desktop sessions!

 I anticipate the main use to be to connect to a server via RDP.
 But some Libre office applications may be run locally.

OpenOffice and LibreOffice a kinda demanding.  For lightweight
use, Abiword (word processor) and gnumeric (spreadsheet) are
much less demanding - but are also not as integrated.

 and M$ has pretty well sabotaged XP to make it unusable.

 rant   Right now, I think there is a huge market for a good XP 
 replacement.

The LXDE desktop layout is very similar to MSWin XP.   A
former MSWin user is likely to feel more comfortable there
than in Win8!!  It is rather lightweight, so the demand on
hardware is not extreme.  

I'm not familiar enough with Ubuntu, but I'm kinda surprised
they don't have an install option for XFCE or LXDE.  Debian
does. :)

A quick search shows Lubuntu as a Ubuntu variant that defaults
to LXDE and Xubuntu that use XFCE.

http://lubuntu.net
http://www.xubuntu.org/
https://sites.google.com/site/masonux/home

All of the Ubuntu variants should be able to use the full
Ubuntu repository making software installation pretty easy.

Puppy is the ultimate in small hardware, lightweight - but it
also sacrifices administration convenience and software
choices.  

At least a 386 processor, 600 MHz is nice.
64MB RAM -- Bare minimum
128MB RAM -- Practical Minimum
256MB RAM -- Desirable Minimum
http://murga-linux.com/puppy/viewtopic.php?t=63547

http://puppylinux.org/main/Overview%20and%20Getting%20Started.htm

 The diabolical bas*tads disable the
 working stuff so they can extort more money out of everyone.
 The only reason the precision 360 video cards,  (one is a quattro
 FX) high end stuff at the time, don't work is simply because M$
 and nvidia want to force you to buy new hardware.

Yup.  I don't pay much attention to MSWin - but there is not
software claiming it needs at least Win7 to run...  One of
these days I'll actually have to abandon XP. *sigh*

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Re: [MBZ] Compression good

2015-01-06 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 dseretakis--- wrote:
 
 I got Curt and Dwight's former 240D to start this am in 14 degree
 temp. I put it through two 30 sec glow cycles and one 20 sec
 crank and it fired up. Compression couldn't be that bad!
 
 It still does it's weird temp fluctuation thing so I can only
 drive it around town for now. 

What style thermostat housing does this use?  'Cause I have had
troubles with the newer style not always sensing the temperature
correctly.  The fix is a 5 mm or so hole drilled in the
thermostat to allow some flow even when cold off.

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Re: [MBZ] Compression good

2015-01-06 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
  dseretakis wrote:
  
  Remind me where the shell is placed. Do I block open the top
  part of the tstat?

 Craig wrote:
  
 It's placed along the central rod (the shell has to be split
 lengthwise and wrapped around the central rod) so the thermostat
 is forced open.

That means either working on a _very_ hot thermostat - or forcing
it open against the spring while at the same time placing the tube
around the rod.  I used a piece of steel brake line, and squeezed
it mostly closed after I got it on so it wouldn't fall off.

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Re: [MBZ] sig

2015-01-07 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Rick wrote:

 Sent from my BlackBerry Z10
 That probably has more computing power than the Gemini, Apollo,
 and original space shuttle combined. 

I'm pretty sure it also out performs the original Cray supercomputer...

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