Re: [MBZ] Lary T. Mini split

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

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Message: 6
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2021 15:30:05 -0400
From: Larry Turner
To: Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mini splits
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

Hi All -
  ??? I have a question about installing a minisplit.? After watching a
YouTube video of the Install, it looks pretty easy. Is that accurate??
We're considering one for our insulated (2") metal shop which is 20x35.?
I was considering a 12,000 or 18,000BTU unit unless we could get along
with a smaller one.? If needed I could get a HVAC guy to charge it
unless it's DIY?
  ??? TIA!
LarryT
06 E350


On 6/4/2020 8:55 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

   Ours is wall mounted so we don't have to take it out and put it back but I 
do put a quilted cover on it over the winter.I'd also like to have the 
minisplit for heat during the shoulder seasons when I don't really want to turn 
the furnace on but we'd like to warm up the house.
-Curt

  On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 9:15:52 PM EDT, Dwight 
Giles  wrote:

   Yes,when life returns to normal would be good investment. We got tired of 
schlepping? window AC's in & out.. every season.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI
On Wed, Jun 3, 2020, 7:34 PM Curt Raymond  wrote:

   At some point I plan to put one here to replace our wall mount AC unit. I 
had kind of planned to do it this year but with no pay increase and 6 weeks of 
furlough all extra spending is on hold.
On furlough next week, doing brakes and some rust repair on the pickup. It had 
been scheduled to get replaced this fall, instead its getting some fixin and 
new tires. Should be able to run it a couple more years easy.
-Curt

  On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 7:27:27 PM EDT, Dwight Giles via 
Mercedes  wrote:

   Yes ours have both AC & heat down to 30F. We just put some in our church's
vicarage that heat down to almost zero.

We love ours.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020, 5:18 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/544822119790746/


Sent from my iPhone

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Message: 7
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2021 12:47:58 -0700
From: Kevin Kraly
To:i...@youroil.net, Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mini splits
Message-ID:<38f528c7-e187-404f-a2ec-c23c48ea9...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

I know nothing about installation, but we had an 18000BTU Daikin minisplit 
installed in our upstairs bonus room. It is nearly the same dimensions as your 
shop, and the unit cools the space with ease. Both the indoor and outdoor units 
are very quiet.
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
2019 Sprinter 3500mi, Low Mileage Lutgard
1982 240D, High Mileage Hildegard still in hibernation

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 22, 2021, at 12:30 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

?Hi All -
 I have a question about installing a minisplit.  After watching a YouTube video 
of the Install, it looks pretty easy. Is that accurate?  We're considering one for 
our insulated (2") metal shop which is 20x35.  I was considering a 12,000 or 
18,000BTU unit unless we could get along with a smaller one.  If needed I could get 
a HVAC guy to charge it unless it's DIY?
 TIA!
LarryT
06 E350



On 6/4/2020 8:55 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
  Ours is wall mounted so we don't have to take it out and put it back but I do 
put a quilted cover on it over the winter.I'd also like to have the minisplit 
for heat during the shoulder seasons when I don't really want to turn the 
furnace on but we'd like to warm up the house.
-Curt

 On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 9:15:52 PM EDT, Dwight 
Giles  wrote:
Yes,when life returns to normal would be good investment. We g

[MBZ] 722.3 Auto Transmission Digital Manual

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang,
    While browsing my files, I came across a digital copy of the 722.3 
Transmission Manual.  If anyone wants a copy send me a note.


    Also, I don't monitor this site very often anymore but I'd like to 
ask list members if anyone has thoughts on what's going on with '06 
E350AWD - have been unable to get it to upshift from low into 2nd  I get 
a code of P0715 which is a code for a speed sensor.  I replaced the 
conductor plate with one from Amazon - someone on PelicanParts is saying 
the problem could be that I need a MB Conductor Plate.  I am also 
getting contradictory comments about the codes - some say I need to 
clear them other say the code will be cleared when the problem is 
resolved.   Just to be safe, I cleared then and took it for another test 
drive -and the problem is still there.


    The car still fails to upshift.   BTW, I also replaced the shifter 
which resolved some problems but not the upshifting.


Any ideas Gang?   I'd appreciate any and all suggestions!  I'm getting 
real tired of seeing that paperweight taking up spa


TIA -
LarryT
2006 E350AWD
1991 300D 2.5T (now in Curley's capable hands)  ;-)

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Re: [MBZ] IPCC's Gold-Standard Temperature Data: Last 7.25 Years World Has Been Cooling

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang!
Gee. I wonder why this hasn't been at the lead of every news program 
since this news came out?   Oh, yeah, it doesn't fit with their agenda


(Sorry for the delay)

LarryT
06 E350 (Still working on the transmission)

On 7/31/2021 4:42 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Sat, 31 Jul 2021 14:40:19 -0600 Craig  wrote:


https://www.c3headlines.com/2021/07/ipccs-gold-standard-temperature-data-last-725-years-world-has-been-cooling-those-stubborn-facts-.html

IPCC's Gold-Standard Temperature Data: Last 7.25 Years World Has Been
Cooling

The UK's global land and ocean dataset of temperature measurements
confirms there has been a 7 year and 3 month span of cooling, as of the
end of month, June 2021. Plus, the correlation between the global temps
and atmospheric CO2 levels is negative for that period: -0.036

Sorry, I forgot to attach the graph.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] NC Covid shots

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Allan - I am 71 so age is a factor.  My big fear is having a 
reaction to the V that is as bad as/worse than C19.  Yes I am nervous 
about receiving the V. Also, there is so much contradictory information 
out there it's hard to make an informed decision based on fact.


Thanks for the info - every little bit helps.
Larry

On 7/24/2021 4:59 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:

>From what I have read it's a rare but non-zero chance esp. with the Janssen 
(J vaccine), to the point where they recenlty added an advisory to the official 
data sheet about it. When it happens, it seem to be more likely in men over age 50.

I can't comment on how your condition would change the calculus. Talk to a 
neurologist?

FWIW, GBS is also a cataloged as a possible after-effect of contracting 
COVID-19. So the risk *may* be a wash.

Allan


On Sat, Jul 24, 2021, at 4:52 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Hi All -
 IIRC, there are others on the list with Demylinating Polyneropathy
(like me).  I have heard things about people and Guillame-Barret disease
getting the Vac and having bad reactiions. Does anyone have good/bad
comments about having CIPD and the Vac?

Thx,
LarryT
06 E350

On 1/15/2021 1:00 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

Silly question for Karl.

Is this (VADE) a valid concern?


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antibody-dependent_enhancement

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] NC Covid shots

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi All -
    IIRC, there are others on the list with Demylinating Polyneropathy 
(like me).  I have heard things about people and Guillame-Barret disease 
getting the Vac and having bad reactiions. Does anyone have good/bad 
comments about having CIPD and the Vac?


Thx,
LarryT
06 E350

On 1/15/2021 1:00 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

Silly question for Karl.

Is this (VADE) a valid concern?


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antibody-dependent_enhancement

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Mini splits

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi All -
    I have a question about installing a minisplit.  After watching a 
YouTube video of the Install, it looks pretty easy. Is that accurate?  
We're considering one for our insulated (2") metal shop which is 20x35.  
I was considering a 12,000 or 18,000BTU unit unless we could get along 
with a smaller one.  If needed I could get a HVAC guy to charge it 
unless it's DIY?

    TIA!
LarryT
06 E350


On 6/4/2020 8:55 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

  Ours is wall mounted so we don't have to take it out and put it back but I do 
put a quilted cover on it over the winter.I'd also like to have the minisplit 
for heat during the shoulder seasons when I don't really want to turn the 
furnace on but we'd like to warm up the house.
-Curt

 On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 9:15:52 PM EDT, Dwight Giles 
 wrote:
  
  Yes,when life returns to normal would be good investment. We got tired of schlepping  window AC's in & out.. every season.


Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI
On Wed, Jun 3, 2020, 7:34 PM Curt Raymond  wrote:

  At some point I plan to put one here to replace our wall mount AC unit. I had 
kind of planned to do it this year but with no pay increase and 6 weeks of 
furlough all extra spending is on hold.
On furlough next week, doing brakes and some rust repair on the pickup. It had 
been scheduled to get replaced this fall, instead its getting some fixin and 
new tires. Should be able to run it a couple more years easy.
-Curt

 On Wednesday, June 3, 2020, 7:27:27 PM EDT, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
 wrote:
  
  Yes ours have both AC & heat down to 30F. We just put some in our church's

vicarage that heat down to almost zero.

We love ours.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Wed, Jun 3, 2020, 5:18 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/544822119790746/


Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] "balance shaft" problem M272/M273 engines

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

  FWIW - Speaking of the Balance Shaft issue - my CEL came on shortly 
after I bought the car (I use the term "car" loosely) and I took it to 
the dealer for diagnosis.  When I learned how deep in the engine this 
problem lurked I spoke with dealer employees afout what I had.  One 
parts guy/Repair guru he told me what he has seen personally.   One 
owner went the full 'fix-it' route and spend ~$4000-$5000 .  He told my 
new friend the car ran no better or worse than it did when the issue 
came up.  Another customer took the route of "not going to spend the 
money" - will just drive it"  he's still driving it today, no worse for 
wear.   YMMV.
    I finally resolved my problems (partly)  by installing an 
alternator and a electronic shifter assy.
i still have a small short to locate and fix,  then I  need to service 
tr trans ad replace the conductor plate.   That *should* fix my limp 
home status.


Fun & games in MB Land
Larry
06 E350


On 6/22/2021 8:46 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

  Yup, I've been using VirtualBox for maybe 7 or 8 years now, works as good as 
VMware for free.
I've got a Win7 and Win3.11 VMs on my Mac.
-Curt

 On Tuesday, June 22, 2021, 8:43:00 PM EDT, dan penoff.com via Mercedes 
 wrote:
  
  Run it in VirtualBox. It’s free, easy to use, and very stable.


-D


On Jun 22, 2021, at 8:32 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:

I found the link on a sticky post on 164s on benzworld.

You can buy a set of DVDs on eBay From various sellers for $15 that has the 
WIS/EPC. It’s a PITA to get installed and is kinda funky to run As it requires 
a VM in Windows (included in the install) but all the details are in there.

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Jun 22, 2021, at 4:32 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes  
wrote:

Probably. How did you find the one that you found? Is the WIS included in the 
cheep cheep chinee star system?


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: June 22, 2021 3:26 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] "balance shaft" problem M272/M273 engines

I did that too, some useful stuff, looks like mostly for his later model cars. 
It looks like he is using his website as a library but all the docs are not 
linked off the main page. I wonder if most of it came from the WIS.

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Jun 22, 2021, at 1:37 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes  
wrote:

I did a search for pdf files on the website. I sure wish they were indexed. 
There's a lot.

Pdf site:benzbits.com


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: June 22, 2021 9:48 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com
Subject: [MBZ] "balance shaft" problem M272/M273 engines

Details on the cam/balance shaft issue with 350 engines,  If you're out
of warranty you're...

Remove / install balance shaft, replace if necessary (engine 272 removed)

Equipped with M272 or M273 Engine Check Engine Light On / Fault Codes
Current and/or Stored in ME-SFI Control Module / Oil Leaking at Camshaft
Adjustment Solenoid


This is due to the positioning of the timing chain driven camshafts
relative to the crankshaft and can be caused by a worn sprocket on the
balance shaft on engine M272 or by a worn guide (idler) gear for the
timing chain on engine M273.

https://benzbits.com/BalanceShaftTSB.pdf

--
--FT

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Re: [MBZ] "balance shaft" problem M272/M273 engines

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I bought a set of DVDs like that for my '06 E350 Gasser - it runs on 
VMWare and initially it ran fine on my Win10 Home system until a Win 
Update did something I don't understand. Since that update, I get an 
error saying VMWare is not compatible with Hyper-V.  Research says W10 
Home does not   come with Hyper-V and since it is not supposed to be 
included with Win10 Home, there is little documentation telling how to 
disable it.  So I technically have a WSM, I am unable to run it any 
longer.   So far, I have been unsuccessful finding alternative SW to run 
the VM files on anything else  if only they had put them on pdf's


Do'ncha jus' love MS?     +++
Larry
 W211 E350


On 6/22/2021 8:32 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

I found the link on a sticky post on 164s on benzworld.

You can buy a set of DVDs on eBay From various sellers for $15 that has the 
WIS/EPC. It’s a PITA to get installed and is kinda funky to run As it requires 
a VM in Windows (included in the install) but all the details are in there.

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Jun 22, 2021, at 4:32 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes  
wrote:

Probably. How did you find the one that you found? Is the WIS included in the 
cheep cheep chinee star system?


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: June 22, 2021 3:26 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] "balance shaft" problem M272/M273 engines

I did that too, some useful stuff, looks like mostly for his later model cars. 
It looks like he is using his website as a library but all the docs are not 
linked off the main page. I wonder if most of it came from the WIS.

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Jun 22, 2021, at 1:37 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes  
wrote:

I did a search for pdf files on the website. I sure wish they were indexed. 
There's a lot.

Pdf site:benzbits.com


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: June 22, 2021 9:48 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: buggeredbenzm...@gmail.com
Subject: [MBZ] "balance shaft" problem M272/M273 engines

Details on the cam/balance shaft issue with 350 engines,  If you're out
of warranty you're...

Remove / install balance shaft, replace if necessary (engine 272 removed)

Equipped with M272 or M273 Engine Check Engine Light On / Fault Codes
Current and/or Stored in ME-SFI Control Module / Oil Leaking at Camshaft
Adjustment Solenoid


This is due to the positioning of the timing chain driven camshafts
relative to the crankshaft and can be caused by a worn sprocket on the
balance shaft on engine M272 or by a worn guide (idler) gear for the
timing chain on engine M273.

https://benzbits.com/BalanceShaftTSB.pdf

--
--FT

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Re: [MBZ] OT Electric Vehicles On Collision Course With Reality

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Am I being too simplistic to wonder what will happen when all the cars 
are electric (green wet dream) and all other consumer 
electronic/electrical devices depend on plug in 110v for charging?  
Seems to me, when that kind of demand hits, the solar and wind farms 
will be woefully unable to adequate;'fill the need?


tia,
Larry
06 S350..

On 7/2/2021 8:07 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

No, the freight rail issue was the railroads trying to get a monopoly and shut 
everyone else down.  Huge shipping rate wars resulted in the collapse of the 
rail beds and operations because they weren't making enough money, in spite of 
being able to legally cooperate on setting rates.  Corporate stupidity.  
Bankrupted the New York Central after they bought everyone else on the East 
Coast, leaving the nation with NO freight rail until the Feds stepped in, and 
killed the passenger service.  We got the grossly underfunded AmTrack instead.

The rail system should have been nationalized during WWi and operated like the 
highway system, with the rail companies operating the trains and the rails 
being owned and operated by the Federal government (like highways).  Rail 
companies paid highway fuel tax on diesel fuel into the 1980s, directly 
subsidizing their competition.

To give you an idea of how crazy the rail system is, the 20th Century Limited 
from New York to Chicago passed over the rails owned and maintained by 
something like 175 railroad companies, some of which owned less the 20 miles of 
track and had not owned equipment since the early teens.

Shear lunacy.  This includes the fact that for many years going west of the 
Mississippi River required going through Chicago, even if you were going from 
New Orleans to Alberquerque.  All the rails were laid by private companies for 
whatever they were doing in the mid to late 1800s, and in those days everything 
in the West (since it was almost all cattle being shipped for export) went to 
Chicago.  Once the local companies serving smaller cities dropped passenger 
service you have to take one of the big lines (if they still had service) and 
they all ran through Chicago.  Take a look at the railroad maps sometime if you 
don't believe me.

If I could take a train from Evansville to St. Louis I'd get to visit my niece 
and nephew a lot more, and could have take my Mom some years longer than we 
could in a car.
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[MBZ] 06 W211 E350 Coolant hose Connections

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang -
    I am finally working to get my 06 e350AWD back on the road. When 
replacing my Alternator I partially removed the lower Rad Hose by 
releasing the hose where it enter the bottom of the engine by removing 
the spring clip and disconnecting the hose.   I have new Spring Clips 
and was told to put the spring clip on the hose nozzle (bottom of 
engine) and insert the hose until it clips into place.
    I think that's exactly what I have been trying to do but the hose 
will not connect.  This is the 1st time I have working with this type of 
hose connection and just cannot get the hose to click!  Anyone know any 
tricks or have words of wisdom to help me get the hose to click into 
place??  (It all sounds so simple until I try to push a rubber hose!!)

TIA
Larry






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Re: [MBZ] Problems with our '93 300D

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Don't know if you got any answers, but my '91 300D did the same thing a 
few times.  After discussing it here, I ended up believing I had carbon 
buildup in the cylinders and put some liquid "fixer" in that was said to 
break the carbon up.  My wife had just started a job where she was 
driving 100 mi RT each day to work and those lengthy drives fully warmed 
the engine and broke the carbon up.  After a week or two of the daily 
drives we never had another problem.  We had only owned the car for a 
week or two when this started - it was exactly as you described - we 
would back out of the driveway and be enveloped in a cloud of white 
smoke.  The car lost power then things cleared up and he problem went 
away.  BTW, My 91 300D only had 99k miles when I bought it in '06 so it 
was seldom driven far and did not warm up properly. HTH...


    Wish I could remember te liquid I used but it's been too long, 
sorry.  But a Net Search will likely provide many hits...


Good luck!

On 2/7/2021 6:24 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On the 35 mile trip to church this morning, we were driving at 75 mph when
suddenly the engine started running rough and a big cloud of white smoke
came out of the exahust (right into the front of the semi which was
tailgating us). After a couple of seconds the engine started running
normally and the smoke stopped. I checked the oil pressure (pegged) and
the temperature (85 C) and saw and heard everything was OK, so I kept on
driving.

Leaving church, we had a little problem backing up, which I attributed to
the rear wheel parking brakes acting up as they have done in the past.

We went to the nearby supermarket and everything seemed normal. I found
there was a long line to get into the building (yes, again!), so we left
and drove east. We got off the Interstate at Edgewood and stopped at the
supermarket there. Interestingly, there was no line at all and not even
someone watching the front door. I got some of the items we needed, went
back to the car, put them into the trunk, and proceeded to leave --
except the car would not move backward. It was OK going forward, however.

I left the engine idling and checked the transmission fluid level. It
seemed to be high, though I am not satisfied I'm getting the right level
indication when I check ATF levels. I did check the level a couple of
months ago and recall it was OK then.

After getting some help pushing the car out of the parking space (up a
slight incline) we were on our way toward the Interstate onramp. We
accelerated up the ramp and got on the roadway just as the engine ran
rough for a few seconds and then ran normally. I looked back and saw a
large cloud of a little white, but mostly black smoke.

The car ran fine the rest of the way home (15 miles), shifting through
all of the forward gears as it was supposed to. I was even able to get it
positioned so it would roll backwards down the incline from our front gate
to our building, so it's ready to go tomorrow -- we need to drive to our
dentist (56 miles) to have the recurrent infection in Shirley's jaw
looked at.

So, does anyone have any idea what's going on with the car?
Any idea if we will be OK driving to Albuquerque tomorrow?

Thank you for your help!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Sharpening drill bits

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Dittos on the performance of Drill Dr.

On 1/17/2021 8:37 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

The Drill Doctor has a fairy fine diamond grinding wheel. The way it is set up 
seems to get a very good centered finish on the bit at the proper angle.

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Jan 17, 2021, at 1:28 AM, G Mann via Mercedes  wrote:

None of these tools tested gave any mention to the most important item in
getting drills sharp.
That is, always dress the grinding wheel so that it is clean and flat,
also, grinding wheels come with many grit selections. Many who try to
sharpen drill bits give no thought to what grit they are using, or what
type of wheel composition they have.

To put a fine cutting edge on the drill you are sharpening, once the
profile is correct at the cutting anvil, the bit should be final finished
at the cutting planes with a fine grit stone in the grinder.at

Last tip. Watch the video again and specifically observe the cutting chips
each drill is making. Notice the drill that cut the fastest produced very
uniform chips... If you sharpen a bit, and it does not give you chips that
look like that bit produced.
Resharpen it, and reshape the cut planes.  Look at a sharp bit that cuts
well... remember what those cutting anvils looked like... Make yours look
just like it. You will be glad you did because it will work.


On Sat, Jan 16, 2021 at 10:49 PM Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I agree. These PF Farm reviews seem thorough and address several things I
care about.  I suppose the guy must make money from the site because it
costs him to do these vids.

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes On Behalf Of Rick Knoble via Mercedes
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2021 10:55 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: Rick Knoble 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sharpening drill bits

I didn't watch, but this guy is good.

https://youtu.be/pmr34sUFpK4

Rick



From: Mercedes  on behalf of Jerry Herrman
via Mercedes 
Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2021 9:52 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Jerry Herrman
Subject: [MBZ] Sharpening drill bits

Thanks for the response on the Harbor Freight drill bits. Kinda what I
expected to hear. I'll plan to use them for wood, plastic, and aluminum. I
have quite a collection of drill bits, mostly high speed steel, which are
now in various stages of dull.

Given that, my next question is about drill bit sharpeners. I have tried a
couple of those several years ago including a Black and Decker. Took too
much time to sharpen them and the results were  not satisfactory. I'm
pretty
sure some of that was due to the user's (me) lack of skill. Sharpening by
hand is out of the question for me. I am just a casual user, mostly in
wood,
but I'd like some drill bits that will perform well in the drill press with
metal.

The ad for Drill Doctor seems to suggest that it easy to use and effective.
What has been your experience with that? Is it worth the price? Does the
cutting stone need replacement?

Jerry

240D

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Re: [MBZ] Serious question that does not need to turn into a political baby fest

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Well said.

On 1/20/2021 7:59 PM, Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes wrote:

Biden is an illegitimate and illegally installed president. Period. The 
Republican Party needs to be eviscerated for not backing Trump. I hope a third 
Patriot or whenever party is created just to destroy the Republican Party. It 
might not gain traction for a few election cycles and the democrats might be in 
power for a long time because of that. But it’s a necessary price to pay to 
finally cleanse the swamp rinos out of DC and finally get a conservative 
President back in office. The way things are going the Republicans will never 
win an election again because the Republicans are too spineless to do anything 
about the Democrat’s blatant widespread and systemic election fraud. Hopefully 
by that time I’ll be living in Greece so I don’t give a damn anymore. This 
country is a joke and our political system is a third world sham.

Sent from my iPhone


On Jan 20, 2021, at 7:43 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
wrote:

"undoing everything the last president did."


On 2021-01-20 19:40, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
What is that going to do?
Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 20, 2021, at 6:31 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
wrote:

JUST IN - President Biden has signed the executive order for the US to rejoin 
the Paris Agreement on climate change.

On 2021-01-20 19:27, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
Crickets. I asked the same thing on Facebook and no real answers.
Mostly just about undoing everything the last president did.

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Re: [MBZ] A quiz question for you

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

That's going be a heck of a water bill unless it's on a pump.  After 
hearing all the horror stories about renters, I feel extremely lucky to 
have had 3 renters over 6 years who generally paid their rent on time 
and didn't damage anything.


LarryT

On 12/17/2020 2:07 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

Well now. That should saturate the septic field.
Ugh.
Sell now.
Take the money.
Pay off whatever needs paid off.
Be done.

If you wait three more years to be "done", you will probably have missed a 
golden opportunity to sell.

I think I know why you refuse to sell. I have "been there, done that", so if 
you want some friendly knowledgeable advice, shoot me an email off list.


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: December 17, 2020 12:53 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: astrasfo...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] A quiz question for you

Figure 5 gallons a minute, 300/hr., 3600/day, x 2 weeks = 50,400.

On Thu, Dec 17, 2020 at 12:54 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Let me guess - more fun with the rental?

-D


On Dec 17, 2020, at 12:52 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

How much water can a toilet use that has been running non stop for 2

weeks straight?

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Re: [MBZ] This is not political, but a serious question, if you can?t handle it then hit delete

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Came across this for Coffee Cty Ga - haven't heard of this elsewhere but 
it shows the voting machine process beginning to end along with the 
possible flaws. One thing they show is the ballots can be fed thru two 
or more times.  That shouldn't be.


Anyway, there are more open doors for flaws shown:
https://twitter.com/jennybethm/status/1337099982294437894

LarryT
06 E350

On 12/17/2020 2:02 PM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote:

Interesting about working the polls, though. Let's all do that and report
back.

On Thu, Dec 17, 2020, 10:56 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Yeah, I think things have run their course and could be continued
elsewhere if people choose to do so.

And Kaleb got his answer.

-D


On Dec 17, 2020, at 1:45 PM, Dwight Giles 

wrote:

Dan,
Time to pull plug on this political stuff?
Dwight


Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Thu, Dec 17, 2020, 1:27 PM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote:

Roger, don’t put words in my mouth, we both know that’s not what I said.

Rather than obfuscate try dropping the sarcasm and accept that I gave
examples based on my experience working the polls in several states for a
significant amount of time. I didn’t claim my experience to be exhaustive,
I merely drew upon many decades of direct experience. In how many elections
have you been a poll worker?

And I don’t trust computers - I verify. That’s why there are paper

copies. I’ve been around since computers have been in general use as well,
even at the polls. For what it’s worth, I worked the 2000 election in
Florida, complete with “hanging chads”, too.

-D


On Dec 17, 2020, at 7:56 AM, ROGER HALE via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com > wrote:

Dan,
I feel much better now knowing that you speak for all voting in the

entire USA...NOT.  Thumb drives floated around in Fulton County where the
votes changed by several hundred thousand.  Observers were obstructed.
Votes were counted after observers were sent home under the guise of a
water main break which was really a bathroom leak early in the day.  Then
votes were counted after the observers left.  Even CNN in their live feed
showed massive vote swings in PA as well.  Did you EVER see vote counts go
down?  I haven't.  I'm glad you trust computers, but having been around
them since they were first put into general use, I know the old adage
"garbage in garbage out" still applies.

Regards,
Roger

Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com 
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Re: [MBZ] This is not political, but a serious question, if you can’t handle it then hit delete

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

The report on the Antrim Countyis damning IMO!  Yet with all the 
evidence of manipulation, there's no intention to invalidate the votes 
in that county?  I assume they just plan to count the votes as they were 
recorded and move on?


Seems like a terrible way to run an election.  We'd be better off if we 
had our fingers  marked with purple stain as in an Afghanistan election 
a few years ago.   But oh no, we're an "advanced" country!


LarryT

On 12/17/2020 9:34 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

Here is a forensics report on the voting machines for one county in Michigan. I 
will read it later this evening.

https://www.scribd.com/document/488105156/Antrim-County-Forensics-Report-on-Dominion-Voting-System#fullscreen_embed

Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: December 17, 2020 8:07 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: ka...@striplin.net
Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is not political, but a serious question, if you can’t 
handle it then hit delete

So basically it sounds like the election was not “hacked” last time and it 
wasn’t the time either. It is simply the media spun it and hyped it up as being 
hacked before, but this time is spinning it that there is no way it could be 
hacked.


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[MBZ] The world will never be without Diesel!

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

don't recall where I came by this, but enjoy --

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Re: [MBZ] This is not political, but a serious question, if you can’t handle it then hit delete

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Are you saying your experience has been with Dominion Systems voting 
machines?


LarryT

On 12/17/2020 8:22 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

It’s not. I’ve worked the elections both here and in two other states I’ve 
lived in for over 40 years. I’ve worked elections since I was 16 years old and 
the days of the voting machines with the curtains and little levers. My father 
was a precinct committeeman and working elections was expected of all of us 
kids, and most of us have continued that effort since.

The “check in” station you mention is connected to a secure network that is 
used to access the voter rolls. It’s not on the “Internet”, it’s an end to end, 
encrypted, tunneled connection to the SOE which can be a hard wired or wifi 
connection. This is common practice and is configured and set up well in 
advance to maintain the security of that data. One of my teams is charged with 
testing and verification of these connections prior to the elections. The 
ballot printers are a part of this system.

The scanners are purely stand-alone devices and have no connectivity.

Counts are typically moved from the scanners to the polling system via secure 
memory cards that are encrypted. Some scanners also have the capability of 
printing out results on a paper tape, like an adding machine. The numbers, 
after being reconciled, are either transmitted to the supervisor of elections’ 
via the local client at the polling place or the data can be hand carried (in a 
secure, chain of custody strongbox) back to the SOE (which is how they get back 
there anyway, along with the paper ballots.)

Anyone who has worked the polls has been exposed to these processes and 
procedures used to guarantee the integrity of the elections. It’s certainly 
different from one state or municipality to the other, but the general approach 
is the same. It’s highly controlled and closely audited. Again, it’s not 
perfect, but the claims of widespread, massive voter fraud are gross 
misstatements.

-D



On Dec 17, 2020, at 7:46 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes  
wrote:

Dan, I'm afraid your experience is limited.  Here in SC, the voting
machines were connected to the internet.  Drove me nuts.  I'm quite sure
the same could be true in other states, that certainly has been reported in
the press, and the "glitches" that always seemed to switch votes in one
direction (from Trump to Biden) point to the need for a thorough forensic
audit so we can be sure the right candidate really won.

Our system is similar to what many of you described: one machine where you
'vote' which creates a paper ballot, and then the voter takes their ballot
(which they can review to make sure it is correct) and feeds it into the
scanner, which counts the vote.  Locally, at each polling place, the
scanner totals are printed out after the last vote, and the total number of
votes cast is compared to the number of voters who came into the polling
place.  If those two numbers don't match, then they have to try to resolve
that at the polling place, with the poll watchers from each party present
(if they bothered to show up, a great many of our polling places had no
poll watchers - not enough volunteers).  Once the count is resolved, then
the electronic votes and the paper ballots are taken to the county election
headquarters and reported out.

The first station at the polling place was voter check-in to make sure the
voter was registered / at the right polling place, and they (the laptops)
were connected to a local WiFi hot-spot that was part of the system, so
they could communicate / get updates back to the county HQ voter database.
I'm not sure if the ballot printer and ballot scanner were also connected,
but once the count was resolved, it was loaded back onto that laptop
somehow (I'm pretty sure via the local WiFi hotspot) and that laptop was
the way the electronic count was returned to county election HQ.

Here in Charleston, we had a lot of folks examining the totals and
comparing them to historical patterns, and although the results were
disappointing in some cases and pleasing in others, nothing was observed to
raise alarms in the result.

What was troubling to me was that we had three known instances of clear
violations of voting law at the polling places, where one party tried to
influence voters or intimidate poll watchers and so favor one party over
the other.  This pattern has been repeated locally for years; one side is
convinced that breaking the law and bending the rules in their favor is OK,
and at every election we have to be ready to try to counter this to ensure
the fairest election possible.  It is very easy for me to believe that this
same pattern repeats across the nation, and the impact can be enough to
swing the result in a tight race.  If we had a tight race and these same
patterns of law-breaking and rule bending were present, I'd be among the
first to cry foul and seek a recount / remedy.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Thu, Dec 17, 2020 

Re: [MBZ] 06 E350AWD Not Upshifting

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks!

On 10/10/2020 3:10 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

You would have to pull the codes with DAS to know what the issue is and to 
reset the trans computer. Could very well be the conductor plate.

Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 10, 2020, at 1:04 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

Hello again all!
 1st, I hope everyone is well?  Hopefully we haven't been hit hard by the Covid 
(Whuhan) Virus?  I suspect the membership of this forum is on the older side, like 
me, and I pray everyone either doesn't get it or recovers quickly & completely.
 I thought I asked this question before but I searched and did not find it.  Anyway, 
re: the 06 E350AWD (AKA, The Paperweight) - I solved one transmission problem by fitting 
a correct battery in it.  Took it for a test drive and find it does not upshift from the 
starting gear.  I am wondering if a Fluid and filter would make any difference.  I am 
wondering if the Conductor plate could be at fault.  Maybe I should change it "while 
I'm in there" (a catch-22 that I dislike)?  There are trans fluid /Filter/Conductor 
plate its for less than $100 on the internet so I am thinking it's a good idea.  What's 
the consensus of those who know much more about auto trans than I do?

Thanks,
Larry
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[MBZ] 06 E350AWD Not Upshifting

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hello again all!
    1st, I hope everyone is well?  Hopefully we haven't been hit hard 
by the Covid (Whuhan) Virus?  I suspect the membership of this forum is 
on the older side, like me, and I pray everyone either doesn't get it or 
recovers quickly & completely.
    I thought I asked this question before but I searched and did not 
find it.  Anyway, re: the 06 E350AWD (AKA, The Paperweight) - I solved 
one transmission problem by fitting a correct battery in it.  Took it 
for a test drive and find it does not upshift from the starting gear.  I 
am wondering if a Fluid and filter would make any difference.  I am 
wondering if the Conductor plate could be at fault.  Maybe I should 
change it "while I'm in there" (a catch-22 that I dislike)?  There are 
trans fluid /Filter/Conductor plate its for less than $100 on the 
internet so I am thinking it's a good idea.  What's the consensus of 
those who know much more about auto trans than I do?


Thanks,
Larry
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Re: [MBZ] OT maybe Honda transmission fluid is magic

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

That makes me think that changing mt ATF might fix my 06 E350.  Last 
last year, I reported the AT would not change from Sport mode to 
Standard Mode - even the indicators nest to the Odometer went blank  - I 
replaced the battery with one having specs like MB recommends - the AT 
Mode came alive again, along with some optional equipment like CC!


Now, I still don't get a up-shift when starting from a stop - perhaps 
changing my ATF will fix the 'lack of a upshift' problem?  Any 
thoughts?  I'm thinking about changing the Conductor Plate at the same 
time.  Evidently they fail and can be a source of problems.


Comments?

Thanks,
Larry 06 E350AWD
159xxx Miles

On 9/25/2020 9:37 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes wrote:

Not expecting much, I decided I'd try changing the transmission fluid on
the Element that won't stay in gear. My alternative was to try selling
it as-is and probably getting little more than salvage value for it.

Last time I changed it, I used Castrol fluid that said "for Honda" on
the label.

Fluid was black when I drained it. Filled with genuine Honda fluid,
drove it around until it was warm. Drove better, but still dropped out
of gear a few times (it seems to just drop into neutral instead of
properly shifting to the next gear). Did the drain/fill again. Fluid was
again black. It was dark by then so I called it a night.

Today, drove it around the neighborhood for a while to warm it
up. Shifted perfectly. Drained the fluid again, was somewhat dark but
still transparent and red. Filled again, will drive it some more
tomorrow. I have enough fluid for one more drain/fill.

Not confident yet that this is a long term fix but so far it's looking
hopeful.

Allan

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Re: [MBZ] OT: cure worse than disease

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

It has been very frustrating to watch the D's (mostly IMO) turn the 
crisis into a political maneuver to improve their agenda, especially 
when we see the things they choose as being essential Vs those they deem 
non-essential.   For instance, abortion clinics are essential while hip 
and knee replacements are non-essential. (that decision must have been 
made by someone never needed a new knee or hip).
Liquor Stores were declared early on to be essential.  They used some 
kind of Bizzaro logic to come up with the declarations they did.


Now they want to postpone the full opening of some states until a 
vaccine is discovered.  But there may never be a vaccine!  I know we are 
capable of many things and a Vaccines would msolve any problems but it's 
just not realistic


it's a strange world we are living in...
LarryT

On 5/26/2020 12:51 AM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:

Scott wrote:
Collateral damage includes everything from suicide and drug use
to domestic violence, to delayed disease diagnosis, to delayed
medical procedures, to hospital near bankruptcy and unemployed
health professionals.  Then there are the economic impacts like
unpaid bills and social damage like lost education.

That doesn't even touch on the loss of liberty, intrusion on
freedom, and the "mommy state" telling us what we can and cannot
do.  "Wear your jacket!"  "Don't go outside until you put on your
Wellingtons!"  "I'm cold, you need to wear a jacket."

Freedom means the individual gets to choose what they think is
best - even if they are wrong.

If someone feels they are at risk, they can stay home.  Or wear a
mask.  Or keep 12 ft away.  But don't force me to hide under my
bed because you are afraid, and I won't force you to leave your
house and take off your breathing mask.

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Re: [MBZ] Was the world really a better place 30 years ago?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

re: 3-4 stations - next time you have a few minutes, look at all the 
channels you have available to you and make a list of the ones you watch 
consistently, say, more than 1 hour/week, but set your own threshold - I 
suspect out of the hundreds of stations available, we watch less than 5 
or 6 really regularly.   I never watch the music channels for instance, 
and the only sports I watch are Sports car road racing yet I have all 
the MTV's, VH1, etc and 3 or 4 ESPNs, but I am forced to buy them.  
There are so many "extra" channels thatare forced upon us merely because 
you can only select from a few (usually 5 or 6) 'Packages'.  I have a 
Dish package that gives me 150 +/- channels and I watch less than 10% - 
likely 5-8%, but, so I can have access to FS1 or FS2 so I can watch Le 
Mans 24 the one time of the year it is aired, i have to buy the next 
package Up.  I think the TV Package Providers spent millions on special 
advisors so they would know which networks to include in which packages 
to maximize the # of 'Up' package purchases.  Same for the Military 
Channel - yep, it's in the next package 'up'.


Another thing (I know, this is looking like a rant), whenever anyone 
changes the channel, I observed 95%+ of the time you will join that next 
channel in a commercial run.  It used to be we could change channels and 
avoid commercials. (especially with the advent of remotes), but no 
more.  It's irritating, but unavoidable unless you watch everything on 
DVR/DVD/VHS.


OK, I'm done.  ;-)
Stay safe -
LarryT
06 E350

On 4/11/2020 8:48 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
3-4 stations sounds good sometimes.  All the tech is nice and having 
the power of the internet is great, but it seems like information 
overload at times and I would gladly give all that up to live back in 
the simpler times again.  Maybe I should sell off everything and move 
out to the woods or something.


On 4/11/2020 7:43 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:

Better is relative.

With the ability of hindsight, sure. I think about growing up as a 
kid in the 60s and 70s, and all the crap kids deal with today and 
things back then look pretty darned good. Certainly a lot simpler, 
but there were still issues to be dealt with.


3-4 TV stations, playing outside pretty much anywhere until dark, 
etc., etc.


-D

On Apr 11, 2020, at 8:39 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
 wrote:


As the subject says, was it?  It sure seems to me like it was but 
when looking backward like that are we just looking thru rose 
colored glasses?  It seems to me the time period of the mid to late 
80's thru the mid 90's, maybe even as late as around 2k (before 911) 
the world was a much better place.  It was still modern but perhaps 
not by today's standards with all the electronic gadgets etc.  It 
seems to me like things really started going to hell with the rise 
of social media.  With the situation as it is today it really makes 
me yearn for the good ol' days.



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Re: [MBZ] OT guns on sale too!

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I can see how people might want guns or ammo in times like these, but 
why is TP  & paper towels being sold out all over town?


BTW, If considering an AR, think about this:  While 223's are less 
expensive that most other center fire rifle bullets, they still can't 
compete with 22LR's.   I also have a 22LR conversion kit for my AR which 
makes shooting it much more economical to shoot.


LarryT

















\

On 3/13/2020 6:02 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

  My lantern-guy group text says that .45, 9mm and .223 are now in short supply.

I've got lots of 12ga, lead and steel, several pounds of black powder and a 
bunch of .54 bullets...
-Cut

 On Friday, March 13, 2020, 5:33:47 PM EDT, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
 wrote:
  
  You'll have to prove your membership in the NRA, GOP, or Tea Party when you

go to pick it up.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 4:54 PM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


*I guess I should order one of these to complete the kit
*


https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-angryjoe-14-ar-14-stripped-lower-receiver-preorder-item-8-10-weeks-delivery.html

*Fire Selector - Left Side:* "WUD HE SAY?" (Safe), "DOGFACED
PONYSOLDIER" (Fire), "FULLA SH!T" (Full-Auto)

*Fire Selector - Right Side: *"MEMORY LOSS" (Safe), "DEMENTIA" (Fire),
"LIBERAL" (Full-Auto)

--FT

On 3/12/20 8:31 AM, Buggered Benzmail wrote:

But where’s the fun in that?  Better to build your own Scary Black

Assault Weapon.

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Mar 12, 2020, at 8:20 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I was reading the comments, and saw that they have been cheaper in the

past.

Sure enough, watching a little TV last night and there's a PSA

commercial

for an assembled rifle with a magazine on sale for $479.
-
Max
Charleston SC



On Thu, Mar 12, 2020 at 12:48 AM Scott Ritchey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Good deal indeed.  I've paid up to $500 for these. The kit still

requires

lower receiver.


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Sent: Wednesday, March 11, 2020 4:30 PM
To: Mercedes 
Cc: Meade Dillon 
Subject: [MBZ] OT guns on sale too!

This is tempting.  Just in case this wu flu virus turns into the

zombie

apocalypse.

PSA 16" M4 Carbine kit for $310, marked down from $500, has blemishes

in

finish.



https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-m4-carbine-length-5-56-nato-1-7-

nitride-freedom-rifle-kit-5076171.html


-
Max
Charleston SC
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--
--FT

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Re: [MBZ] ML 722.6 results

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Dan -
Sounds like I need to find a SDS somewhere around here.  Are they dealer 
only?
I am having shifter problem than is a little different m than the one 
described. My 06 E350 will some days be fine (for a while) then stop 
shifting out of 1st or 2nd  (which ever one it start in).  The 
Comfort/Sport indicator also goes blank.
When it does this it cannot be shifted into R or P.  To turn the car off 
we turn the key to off, then put it in P.  Then when we re-start, it 
will work for a while.


    I assume the SDS is a little more than $29.95?

Thanks,
LarryT
06 E350




On 6/26/2019 6:44 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes wrote:
The SDS would not only show you the codes, you could see the WIS as it 
relates to the parts that are faulting along with "actual values” to see 
exactly what and when the faults are occurring. You can also run 
diagnostics on some systems, such as turning a particular component on 
and off manually to see what’s happening.

I’ve never had to do a conductor plate myself, but it sure sounds like yours is 
toast based on what you describe.

-D



On Jun 26, 2019, at 6:32 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes  
wrote:

So I got the connector back in and cleaned that all up.  Pulled the TCM and 
cleaned the contacts, there might have been a bit of tranny oil in one of the 
connectors but I couldn't be sure. Anyway got it all buttoned up and took it 
out for a spin.  Was running a bit rough but I had disconnected the battery so 
maybe that was the issue.

Transmission seemed stuck in 2nd or maybe 3rd, would not shift, would not 
accelerate very well.  Engine was running fine though. I pulled the OBD codes 
again and got the same ones plus a couple showing cylinder misfires, not sure 
what that was about.

P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical Circuit Malfunction

P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical Circuit Malfunction

P0763 Shift Solenoid C Electrical Circuit Malfunction

P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Circuit Malfunction

I'm guessing this might now be related to the conductor plate or maybe the 
solenoids are bad though I don't think they would all gakk at once.  I guess 
I'll order a new conductor plate, or at least pull the one that is in there and 
see if anything looks wonky.  Or might it be the TCM is fried?  Would the Fancy 
Computer be able to see more detail about what is going on?  Something 
electrical clearly, and same codes as before I fooled with the connector.


--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Extractor

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hmm.. thx for that..
LarryT

On 4/9/2020 2:40 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
Its always possible, is it as good as using the drain plug is the 
question. I know a lot of VW guys do it. The main difference is you 
have to use a dip tube because the dipstick tubes don't always go all 
the way to the bottom of the pan.


-Curt

On Thursday, April 9, 2020, 2:38:21 PM EDT, Larry Turner via Mercedes 
 wrote:



Any idea if sucking the oil out via dipstick is possible with other
cars?  I need to change my Ford Explorer and don't enjoy getting down on
the ground to do that.

Thoughts?

LarryT
06 Explorer
06 E350

On 3/7/2020 3:06 PM, Wilton Strickland via Mercedes wrote:
>
>     See ARCHIVES for description of my "topsider" that I built with 
items

> I'd already owned for many years, 'cept piece of plastic hose/tube.
>
>     Yes, I tested on my 123, 124 & 126 and found that sucking the 
oil via

> dipstick tube removed more than draining. 'Have not used it on the
> 211.
>
>     Wilt
>
>     -From: "Curley McLain via
> Mercedes"
> To: "Bob Rentfro via Mercedes"
> Cc: "Curley McLain"
> Sent: Saturday March 7 2020 12:51:06PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Extractor
>
> Depends on if you want to spend $80 up or $10. (allowing 2x
>  inflation
>  for Wilton's $5 oil extractor.)
>
>  I went in between, with a $10 fire SS Soda water extinguisher and a
>  $10
>  HF vacuum device.
>
>  For big bucks, the topsider is it.
>
>  > Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
>  > March 7, 2020 at 11:28 AM
>  > Here is something I haven’t seen us discuss in a hot minute: oil
>  > extractors.
>  >
>  > Which is the best? Seem to remember that Topsiders were lauded at
>  some
>  > point in the past.
>  >
>  > Bob R
>  >
>
>  ___
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Extractor

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Any idea if sucking the oil out via dipstick is possible with other 
cars?  I need to change my Ford Explorer and don't enjoy getting down on 
the ground to do that.


Thoughts?

LarryT
06 Explorer
06 E350

On 3/7/2020 3:06 PM, Wilton Strickland via Mercedes wrote:


See ARCHIVES for description of my "topsider" that I built with items
I'd already owned for many years, 'cept piece of plastic hose/tube.

Yes, I tested on my 123, 124 & 126 and found that sucking the oil via
dipstick tube removed more than draining. 'Have not used it on the
211.

Wilt

-From: "Curley McLain via
Mercedes"
To: "Bob Rentfro via Mercedes"
Cc: "Curley McLain"
Sent: Saturday March 7 2020 12:51:06PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Extractor

Depends on if you want to spend $80 up or $10. (allowing 2x
  inflation
  for Wilton's $5 oil extractor.)

  I went in between, with a $10 fire SS Soda water extinguisher and a
  $10
  HF vacuum device.

  For big bucks, the topsider is it.

  > Bob Rentfro via Mercedes
  > March 7, 2020 at 11:28 AM
  > Here is something I haven’t seen us discuss in a hot minute: oil
  > extractors.
  >
  > Which is the best? Seem to remember that Topsiders were lauded at
  some
  > point in the past.
  >
  > Bob R
  >

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Re: [MBZ] OT = On topic 124/OM602 overheating

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hello All -
Back when I had the car, I replaced the Rad when the upper nozzle 
broke.  At that time I cleaned between the rad & the condensor so that 
should still be clean.


One thing about the T'Stat - 1st one I bought was right catalog # but it 
was too small (or vice versa) so I got the right one and all was well.  
That doesn't mean it didn't fail soon after I started using it.  I also 
put a new Fan Clutch on.  But at one point, I had cooling issues and I 
replaced everything assoc w/the cooling - at least the front of engine 
components.


I also noticed the Aux fans only seemed to run when the AC was on - I 
thought that might be the way it was supposed to run. IAC, as Curley 
found, when AC  is on the Aux fans work and Temp is not a problem.


Hopefully, by now Curley has found / fixed the problem.

I hope everyone is staying healthy in these times...

LarryT
'06 E350 (which may a new the Conductor Plate)

On 3/14/2020 8:51 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Curley, I've got three of these cars, '87 with OM603 and two '95's with
OM606NA.  None of them need the aux fan running in the summer heat, unless
the AC is running or I'm carrying a big load or running fast on the highway
up hill and then suddenly slow down.

Just driving around town at 75 deg F, with no AC running, the car should
not need the aux fans running.

I disagree, you've got evidence that the t-stat is failed.  They can fail
right out of the box!

In your place, I would remove the front bumper and the fan shroud and clean
out the leaves and bugs between shroud and condenser, pull the radiator and
clean between radiator and condenser, spray your garden hose through both
while you have it all apart, and then pull the t-stat and check it for
function.

Here are the specs from MB:

OM601, 602.91, 603.91: begin opening @ 85 +/-2 deg C, minimum stroke 8mm @
94 deg C

If the AC refrigerant has leaked down, then only the high speed function of
the aux fans will work.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Fri, Mar 13, 2020 at 11:38 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


because the problem is not the thermostat.  On this one, the radiator is
blocked by a shroud, except for where the 2 fans are.  I'm guessing that
is to keep bugs out of the radiator.   So without the fans running, it
runs too hot.  when the fans run it is fine.   Larry put a new
thermostat in it not that long ago.   If I had evidence of a thermostat
problem I would change it.  so far it is quite clear:  Fans running, no
overheat.  Fans not running, overheating.   With the sensor on top of
the engine plugged in, the fans never run.   THat is a problem.   When
that sensor is unplugged, the fans are intermittent.

If the R134a has leaked out, would the low pressure switch cause the
fans not to run?   Seems to me that the fans should be independent of
the a/c, but obviously they are linked at the drier.  Fans should run
when the A/c is off.



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Re: [MBZ] Parasitic Draw

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Just to complicate things, some cars like the 06 E350 MB I have been 
struggling with, have an auxiliary battery - I removed the primary 
battery for 6 weeks or more and the radio stations were remembered.


When doing a parasitic draw test, should I also disconnect the Aux 
Battery?  I put a test light in series with the neg cable/post and 
pulled all fuses 1 by 1 and the light never even flickered.


Thx,
LarryT
06 E350

On 3/29/2020 9:41 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

  I'd say this is normal. The clock, for one, always draws power. As others 
have noted the computer(s) will draw some current when first connected. That 
draw will decrease as the computer powers up and gets its act together. It 
probably sits in some kind of standby mode until activated by turning the key 
on.
Your mention that it doesn't kill the battery reinforces my thought that its 
normal. It probably will kill the battery eventually but it'd probably be hard 
to tell that from the battery just going flat as it would anyway if you left it 
alone long enough...
-Curt

 On Sunday, March 29, 2020, 9:26:28 PM EDT, Jerry Herrman via Mercedes 
 wrote:
May I thicken the plot? I was so enthusiastic about this new-found
knowledge, I decided to apply it to a second car, a 91 Volvo (also)240,
because whenever I apply the negative cable to the battery post on that car
I also get a small spark. That has never resulted in a dead or weak battery,
although that car sometimes sits unused for periods of time. Sure enough,
the 12 v test light bulb went on. However, it faded out after about one
second. By repeated tests, I learned that after removing the test light, it
takes about 10 or so seconds for it to recover. If I re-connect the test
light right away, the bulb will not light up. Does this provide some clue as
to what the electricity stealing culprit might be?

  


Minor issue - I did not know that pictures could be attached to these
submissions. Is there a set of instructions to follow to submit a photo?

Jerry Herrman

1982 240D

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Re: [MBZ] Stuck calipers

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Curley,
I had a similar problem.  I read somewhere I could hook up a chassis 
grease pump thingie into the bleed valve hole.   I found it screwed in 
easily and a few pumps of the grease pump handle and the puck slowly 
walked out.  I had to clean the small amount of grease that remained but 
it was less trouble than I thought it would be.


Hydraulic action is a powerful force!

Let me know how this works for you, I used it on 2 or 3 calipers.

Stay Safe,
LarryT
06 E350

On 2/14/2020 1:07 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Has anyone come up with a way to free up stuck calipers so they can be 
rebuilt?   I have 3 of them  that need to be freed up.    I've tried 
soaking in solvent and mechanical.  I can get the pucks to turn a 
little, but not to come out. They are all 124 rears.


Vinegar soak?
coca cola soak?
sulferic acid soak?

Anyone BTDT?

A could throw them out, but if I can fix em, I can use em some day.

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Re: [MBZ] Where is Wilton?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Wilton?  I hope your COPD is under control?, or at least not getting 
much worse?  Mine seems to have stabilized.

Are you taking Lyrica and pain meds?  Stay safe -

LarryT
91 300D
06 E350
74 911
etc.

Dan


On Mar 29, 2020, at 2:45 PM, Wilton Strickland via Mercedes 
 wrote:



Right here watching it with you.

W

-From: "Kaleb Striplin via
Mercedes"
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Cc: "Kaleb Striplin"
Sent: Sunday March 29 2020 11:13:42AM
Subject: [MBZ] Where is Wilton?

Anybody heard from him since the world ended?

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] OT well that fixed an annoyance

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

one day someone will figure out how to put EFI on small engines at a 
cost comparable to carbs and carbs will disappear completely - like they 
have on cars.


LarryT
06 E350
Youroil.net

On 3/27/2020 1:03 AM, fmiser via Mercedes wrote:

Floyd wrote:
Actually two.  I have these 3 Stihl things, a chainsaw, a string
trimmer, and a blower.  They are constantly out of "tune" with
the mixtures.



Anyway, in short order I got them both running fine after being
frustrated with the things pretty much forever.
Yay me, although I am probably now a federal (or at least in
Kollyfawnya) felon for adjusting the carburetors on these tools.

Yup.  Ironic that by adjusting them you _decreased_ the emissions
- the very thing those goofy caps were supposed to insure, yet you
had to bypass or remove them

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Re: [MBZ] Larry's 300D 2.5

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

HI Curly,
Sorry to hear you are having more problems with "my" 300D.  I don't 
recall any turbo problems, but it sat for about a year while I figured 
out what to do with it.  The only way I ever checked to confirm things 
were as they should be was to warm it up then do a 0-60 test looking for 
around 6+ Seconds.  (I may be wrong on the # of seconds as it's been a 
while since I did that test.)


I was going to adjust the ALDA at one point but the professor said the 
91 ALDA did not benefit from adjusting.  Can't recall the specifics.


So the rear wheels aligned without trouble?  I know you put a lot of 
work into the rear suspension!


Stay safe!
Larry

On 3/6/2020 10:04 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Checked over the vacuum system.   did not find any problems.   Blew 
out the manifold fitting and line to overboost cutout.   It is a 
little better, but not where it should be.   I don't have a vacuum 
gauge here to check actual vacuum. When driving you can tell is is 
getting some boost, but not where it should be.


What should be next?   Turn up the alda?

The 87 300D will chirp the tires going from 1st to 2nd.   THis one is 
nowhere near that.   With a missing cyl, it may never chirp the tires, 
but all y'all have talked about how these are better than the 87.   So 
far, I like the 87/OM603 better.



Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
March 4, 2020 at 7:29 AM
You probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. The turbo is vacuum 
operated on these rather than pressure. Low vacuum equals no boost.


Sent from my iPhone




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Re: [MBZ] W124 rear subframe R pictures

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Are these photo's of "my" old 300?
LarryT
06 E350

On 12/21/2019 11:59 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Here are shots of the rust on the subframe.   They also show the 
condition of some of the  links. 189 shows a piece of spring in the 
bottom of the spring pocket.  188 shows the flakes on one link mount. 
this is the subframe rust that is of most concern.  I think it will be 
ok, but since I have access to a couple of unrusted subframes, I think 
I will use one of them.   If anyone wants to see hi-res versions of 
the pictures, let me know and I can send them offlist.


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Re: [MBZ] 06 MB E350 W211 w/electr issue

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks for that - I'm leaning that way too.  I got a suggestion to test 
the alt easily - was told "Hold a piece of steel ( like a screw driver ) 
against the alternator pulley or back of the alternator, if it sticks 
the field is staying on or there is a shorted diode for the stator. 
Actual shorted not what some call any electrical fault."


Don't know if this will work but it's worth a try.  And I'm pretty sure 
a shorted alt will cause the alt to magnetize.


Make sense?  I'm charging the battery so I can try it tomorrow...  been 
busy with lots of other things going on.


Larry

...
On 12/27/2019 8:39 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Major juice draw with ign off is alternator, in my experience.   No 
easy fix, change alternator.



Larry Turner via Mercedes <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>
December 27, 2019 at 6:55 AM
yeah, there are 3 fuse boxes I know of - trunk, engine compart, near 
drivers seat.  There are also a number of what I think are relays 
near the battery/spare tire in the trunk.  I have a MB workshop 
manual and as usual,  it takes a while to learn how to navigate it. 
I'm still learning.


re Aux Battery - yep, replaced it with no change.  The dash display 
shows a battery symbol  and something saying it needs to be 
serviced.  I need to buy a proper battery for the trunk and retest 
everything.  At one point I had a fully charged battery and all the 
comfort extras seemed to wake up and the tranny and everything else 
worked as they should - things like cruise control, and some other 
things I don't recall at the moment.  I haven't been able to spend 
time chasing problems properly recently but hope to get a correct 
primary battery and check things more completely.


It's a beautiful car and the engine runs great even with the CEL on. 
Had that checked and there is a common problem with the balance 
shaft. Spoke with two techs at MB and both said the same thing - 
spending $3-$5K on a engine rebuild (MB prices).  They have had 
customers who did have the engine repaired, reinstalled and couldn't 
tell a difference in the way the engine behaved. It seems the only 
thing different was the CEL was off.  SO I'm not worried about the 
engine.  The AT is different.  It has 2 driving modes: Sport and 
Comfort which are accessed using a button on the console.  Much of 
the time recently, it was impossible to change modes.  Also, to put 
it in Park, you must turn the ign off to remove the key.


Cudo's to MB for extending the warranty +20 or 25 years (!) for the 
fuel system.  When we had fuel smell they replaced everything around 
the fuel tank - pumps, filters, etc.


Let's see, what else?  When the AT goes bonkers, it will not shift 
out of 2nd making the engine run much higher than normal rpm's.  Not 
a major flaw IMO but my wife is uncomfortable with such things ;-) 
Since she's the primary driver I need to cater to her needs. Anyway, 
Battery 1st, then we'll see.  But I fear the Alternator may be the 
reason for the short causing the battery to drain quickly. But I need 
to jack the car up so I can crawl under and disconnect a wire then 
test for the power drain before I'll know.


Thx for the comments  --

LarryT
06 E350  (from a perfect MB - exc for that little rust problem ;-) to 
one with major problems)  Duh...






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Re: [MBZ] OT - Win10 Va Win 7

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks for that great explanation Roger!  Very helpful! (Not just to me 
but to others as well, I suspect)


LarryT

On 12/28/2019 9:02 AM, ROGER HALE via Mercedes wrote:

Larry,
I pass on to you what I've told before.  I have two old Dell Vostros with Dual 
Core processors.  They were originally 4mb memory which Dell said couldn't be 
upgraded because they never certified it as well as not certifying Win10.  I 
upgraded both to Win10 back in 2016, I think, first year available.
Now, I upgraded the memory on both to 8mb because I could and it worked fine.  
I upgraded the processor on one easily.  I added an SSD drive to one easily.  
They both work fine but are getting old, 2007 and 2008 vintage.  So, in January 
I plan to move everything to two Dell Vostro 470s (2013-2014 vintage) with I 
acquired on eBay for very reasonable prices.  They will have i5 3rd gen 
processors, 8mb of memory, and 1 or 2 terabyte of disk space running Win10 
which I've already loaded using the free upgrade.
If you want optimal performance from Win10, you should upgrade memory to 8mb if 
possible, while 4mb will run good.  A 3.0 ghz processor or close is good 
whether dual core, i3, or i5, or i7.  Again, changing a processor takes about 
20 minutes.  Upgrading memory takes about 5-10 minutes.
If you can, make upgrades to your PC first.  You might also have to go back to 
the PC vendor and get a BIOS upgrade as I did for my Dell 200, but not the Dell 
220.  Then upgrade to Win10.  When it asks for a product key, give it the 
product key for your Win7 and Microsoft will issue you a digital key which 
works just fine.  You can contact me off list if you have any questions.
Good luck and best wishes,
Roger
Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Win10 Va Win 7

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thx Scott,
    If I want to install a SSD, is it a straight swap the existing HDD 
with a SDD?  Also, is 1TB on a SDD the same as 1TB on a HDD? Sound like 
a stupid question I know, but...?


    Thx,
Larry

On 12/27/2019 7:34 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:

In my experience, a SSD is the easiest way to speed up a PC,

I had 3 PCs (2 notebooks and a desktop) still running Win 7.  The desktop and 
one (newer) notebook upgraded to Win 10 just fine.  The older notebook was 
incompatible in some way and defaulted back to Win 7 (and still runs fine in 7).

I'd recommend trying the free Win 10 upgrade.  Worst case it goes back to Win 
7.  Without security fixes, orphan Win 7 systems may (or may not) become a 
serious security problem in the future.   Why take the chance?

You may (like me) dislike the Win 10 start menu.  If that's the case, try "Classic 
Shell" which provides a (customizable) Win 7-like start menu.

Scott


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
Larry Turner via Mercedes
Sent: Friday, December 27, 2019 4:54 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Cc: Larry Turner 
Subject: [MBZ] OT - Win10 Va Win 7

Running an older Lenovo desktop with Win 7.  Saw the thread about
downloading W10 for free and thought I've give it a shot.  But I was wondering
if the sluggishness my Win7 is experiencing would be helped in any way or am I
just wasting time.  It has a 2TB HDD  but the processor should probably be
upgraded.  Anyway, suggestions?

LarryT
06 E350
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[MBZ] OT - Win10 Va Win 7

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Running an older Lenovo desktop with Win 7.  Saw the thread about 
downloading W10 for free and thought I've give it a shot.  But I was 
wondering if the sluggishness my Win7 is experiencing would be helped in 
any way or am I just wasting time.  It has a 2TB HDD  but the processor 
should probably be upgraded.  Anyway, suggestions?


LarryT
06 E350
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Re: [MBZ] HF click torque wrenches

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

never mind my last post - my question about calibration has been 
answered...  ;-)


LarryT

On 12/18/2019 11:56 AM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

I bought one of these -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009MBG4MG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1
and use it to calibrate my old click type torque wrenches every time I use
them. It does match the beam wrench I have, so I trust it.

On Wed, Dec 18, 2019 at 10:53 AM dan--- via Mercedes 
wrote:


Don’t buy a HF inch pound torque wrench. I don’t like the way they click
(or don’t). The click doesn’t seem to be very positive.

When I did the injector reseal on the W211 I needed a 1/4” drive torque
wrench that would do 7 inch-pounds. I got this one and was very pleased
with it:


https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M12284X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1

Not quite a HF price, but the quality seems very good as was the accuracy
checked against a beam type wrench that has been calibrated.

-D


On Dec 18, 2019, at 11:43 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Hmm, I might get one of the smaller ones. I've never had anything that

could deal with inch pounds. I've got 3/8" and 1/2" beam and a 1/2" clicker
that all work well. I think the beam ones are both Craftsman, the clicker I
got at a yard sale. I wouldn't trust it for anything truly sensitive but it
works for tightening lug nuts...

-Curt

On Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 11:16:30 AM EST, Floyd Thursby via

Mercedes  wrote:

I saw an ad in Sunday paper that HF has the 1/4 3/8 1/2 click torque
wrenches on sale for $10 any size.  I wonder if they are any good, seems
like cheap enough to have a set in the tool box. I have a pretty good
1/2" Craftsman I got years ago.

--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] HF click torque wrenches

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

who do you get to calibrate a Torq Wrench?



On 12/18/2019 11:52 AM, dan--- via Mercedes wrote:

Don’t buy a HF inch pound torque wrench. I don’t like the way they click (or 
don’t). The click doesn’t seem to be very positive.who do you get to calibrate a

When I did the injector reseal on the W211 I needed a 1/4” drive torque wrench 
that would do 7 inch-pounds. I got this one and was very pleased with it:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M12284X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1

Not quite a HF price, but the quality seems very good as was the accuracy 
checked against a beam type wrench that has been calibrated.

-D


On Dec 18, 2019, at 11:43 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes  
wrote:

Hmm, I might get one of the smaller ones. I've never had anything that could deal with inch 
pounds. I've got 3/8" and 1/2" beam and a 1/2" clicker that all work well. I 
think the beam ones are both Craftsman, the clicker I got at a yard sale. I wouldn't trust it 
for anything truly sensitive but it works for tightening lug nuts...

-Curt

On Wednesday, December 18, 2019, 11:16:30 AM EST, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
 wrote:

I saw an ad in Sunday paper that HF has the 1/4 3/8 1/2 click torque
wrenches on sale for $10 any size.  I wonder if they are any good, seems
like cheap enough to have a set in the tool box. I have a pretty good
1/2" Craftsman I got years ago.

--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] Cheap '94 E320 wagon

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

which turn signal do you need?  I ended up with a OEM fixture and have 
nothing to put it on...  I have the stock color lens and also a clear 
lens, take your pick for the shipping cost...  good condition iirc.


Larry

On 12/8/2019 8:35 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Got it for a Caleb price. Needs a radiator, front turn signal, third brake 
light, some paint, plus ... TBD.

Max Dillon
Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] 124 emergency brake shoes

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

BTW, I bought a tool - T Handle with a hook on the end - didn't seem 
very useful to me but you're welcome to it?


LarryT

On 12/20/2019 4:07 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
has anyone come up with tools that really work to R the 
parking/emergency brake shoes and cable?  (W124)    I've done it using 
vice grips and other made up solutions, but it is awful and results in 
lots of wasted time and skinned hands.


The right side had no shoes or guts whatsoever.   THe left side has 
shoes and I think it has all the parts.   Both sides need cables.   I 
have those.


Decided I Need to put in all new everything in the rear before it goes 
on the road again.  Ouch

wheel bearings, too...


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Re: [MBZ] 124 emergency brake shoes

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Are you talking about "my" 91 300D?  If so, all the PB parts are in the 
trunk.  Pretty sure they were all in very god condition.


Larry

On 12/20/2019 4:07 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
has anyone come up with tools that really work to R the 
parking/emergency brake shoes and cable?  (W124)    I've done it using 
vice grips and other made up solutions, but it is awful and results in 
lots of wasted time and skinned hands.


The right side had no shoes or guts whatsoever.   THe left side has 
shoes and I think it has all the parts.   Both sides need cables.   I 
have those.


Decided I Need to put in all new everything in the rear before it goes 
on the road again.  Ouch

wheel bearings, too...


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Re: [MBZ] 06 MB E350 W211 w/electr issue

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

BTW, is that E500 the W124 MB worked with Porsche on?   They're 
incredible cars I'm told...


LarryT

On 12/27/2019 7:13 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

Are there multiple fuse blocks in the 211. This E500 I have i vaguely recall 
has 2 or 3 scattered here and there. Also the aux battery can go bad and cause 
issues.

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Dec 26, 2019, at 11:11 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

Hi Gang,
I hope all is well?  My '06 E350 has been sitting long enough - I need to find 
a short. I discovered the battery was being drained.  I connected a Test Light 
between the Neg Term and the the disconnected neg cable - the light was on full 
bright.

I started pulling each fuse one after the other hoping one would cause the test 
light to go out.  I checked all I know of and none changed the test light. - I 
pulled those in the truck, drivers area and engine compartment.

My next step to to disconnect the wiring  (B+ maybe ??) on the Alternator to 
see if that's the problem.  Assuming that tells me nothing,  is there any other 
circuit checks I can try that might be draining the battery?

I need to test it some more - but it's a new battery, I can charge it to ~13.4V, 
disconnect the charger and connect the + & - cables, attach my DMM and I can 
watch the V's drop .04v every 2-4 seconds.  Last time I checked it, I think it 
stopped draining when it go to ~10 Vs if that tells us anything?  Maybe it's a DOA?

I'm going to take the battery back to the store and have it tested on the off 
chance it's a bad battery.  What else can I check and which wire do I 
disconnect on the Alternator?

Thanks ya'll, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
LarryT
06 E350
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Re: [MBZ] 06 MB E350 W211 w/electr issue

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

yeah, there are 3 fuse boxes I know of - trunk, engine compart, near 
drivers seat.  There are also a number of what I think are relays near 
the battery/spare tire in the trunk.  I have a MB workshop manual and as 
usual,  it takes a while to learn how to navigate it. I'm still learning.


re Aux Battery - yep, replaced it with no change.  The dash display 
shows a battery symbol  and something saying it needs to be serviced.  I 
need to buy a proper battery for the trunk and retest everything.  At 
one point I had a fully charged battery and all the comfort extras 
seemed to wake up and the tranny and everything else worked as they 
should - things like cruise control, and some other things I don't 
recall at the moment.  I haven't been able to spend time chasing 
problems properly recently but hope to get a correct primary battery and 
check things more completely.


It's a beautiful car and the engine runs great even with the CEL on.  
Had that checked and there is a common problem with the balance shaft.  
Spoke with two techs at MB and both said the same thing - spending  
$3-$5K on a engine rebuild (MB prices).  They have had customers who did 
have the engine repaired, reinstalled and couldn't tell a difference in 
the way the engine behaved.  It seems the only thing different was the 
CEL was off.  SO I'm not worried about the engine.  The AT is 
different.  It has 2 driving modes: Sport and Comfort which are accessed 
using a button on the console.  Much of the time recently, it was 
impossible to change modes.  Also, to put it in Park, you must turn the 
ign off to remove the key.


Cudo's to MB for extending the warranty +20 or 25 years (!) for the fuel 
system.  When we had fuel smell they replaced everything around the fuel 
tank - pumps, filters, etc.


Let's see, what else?  When the AT goes bonkers, it will not shift out 
of 2nd making the engine run much higher than normal rpm's.  Not a major 
flaw IMO but my wife is uncomfortable with such things ;-) Since she's 
the primary driver I need to cater to her needs. Anyway, Battery 1st, 
then we'll see.  But I fear the Alternator may be the reason for the 
short causing the battery to drain quickly. But I need to jack the car 
up so I can crawl under and disconnect a wire then test for the power 
drain before I'll know.


Thx for the comments  --

LarryT
06 E350  (from a perfect MB - exc for that little rust problem ;-) to 
one with major problems)  Duh...



On 12/27/2019 7:13 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

Are there multiple fuse blocks in the 211. This E500 I have i vaguely recall 
has 2 or 3 scattered here and there. Also the aux battery can go bad and cause 
issues. Yeah, there are 3 fuse locaton

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Dec 26, 2019, at 11:11 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

Hi Gang,
I hope all is well?  My '06 E350 has been sitting long enough - I need to find 
a short. I discovered the battery was being drained.  I connected a Test Light 
between the Neg Term and the the disconnected neg cable - the light was on full 
bright.

I started pulling each fuse one after the other hoping one would cause the test 
light to go out.  I checked all I know of and none changed the test light. - I 
pulled those in the truck, drivers area and engine compartment.

My next step to to disconnect the wiring  (B+ maybe ??) on the Alternator to 
see if that's the problem.  Assuming that tells me nothing,  is there any other 
circuit checks I can try that might be draining the battery?

I need to test it some more - but it's a new battery, I can charge it to ~13.4V, 
disconnect the charger and connect the + & - cables, attach my DMM and I can 
watch the V's drop .04v every 2-4 seconds.  Last time I checked it, I think it 
stopped draining when it go to ~10 Vs if that tells us anything?  Maybe it's a DOA?

I'm going to take the battery back to the store and have it tested on the off 
chance it's a bad battery.  What else can I check and which wire do I 
disconnect on the Alternator?

Thanks ya'll, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
LarryT
06 E350
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Re: [MBZ] Whinging

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I always thought the PO sticker concerning weapons was ambiguous.  It 
sounded like they were "banned except for lawful purposes". IMO, me 
having a CCW permits gives me legal rights to carry on USPS grounds, 
unless I go in to stick up the place, or am I reading that wrong? 
Granted I'd hate to have to spend $50k in lawyer fees to contest it in 
court but logically I think I'm correct.
I know our wonderful government lacks the use of Logic but it seems I 
might be right...


I know private citizens can create gun free zones but I didn't know the 
USPS was a "Target rich environment" (otherwise known as a gun free zone).


LarryT
06 E350

On 10/19/2019 12:33 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Postal regulations passed by bureaucrats carry the weight of federal law. If 
you go to a post office without street parking, you're unarmed for the entire 
trip or you're a federal felon, because guns are banned on all USPS property, 
including parking lots. I suppose you could just leave your gun in the street 
before you drive into the lot.

In the matter of your package, I think it goes back if not picked up in ten 
days.
Mitch.


On October 19, 2019 at 12:27 PM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
 wrote:


The whole point is not having to deal with the PO, the local is totally
useless, some Soviet-style bureaucracy starting before you even walk in
the door. NO CONCEALED WEAPONS ALLOWED.

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[MBZ] 06 MB E350 W211 w/electr issue

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang,
I hope all is well?  My '06 E350 has been sitting long enough - I need 
to find a short. I discovered the battery was being drained.  I 
connected a Test Light between the Neg Term and the the disconnected neg 
cable - the light was on full bright.


I started pulling each fuse one after the other hoping one would cause 
the test light to go out.  I checked all I know of and none changed the 
test light. - I pulled those in the truck, drivers area and engine 
compartment.


My next step to to disconnect the wiring  (B+ maybe ??) on the 
Alternator to see if that's the problem.  Assuming that tells me 
nothing,  is there any other circuit checks I can try that might be 
draining the battery?


I need to test it some more - but it's a new battery, I can charge it to 
~13.4V, disconnect the charger and connect the + & - cables, attach my 
DMM and I can watch the V's drop .04v every 2-4 seconds.  Last time I 
checked it, I think it stopped draining when it go to ~10 Vs if that 
tells us anything?  Maybe it's a DOA?


I'm going to take the battery back to the store and have it tested on 
the off chance it's a bad battery.  What else can I check and which wire 
do I disconnect on the Alternator?


Thanks ya'll, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
LarryT
06 E350
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Re: [MBZ] Very nice 210 in NJ with bad transmission pump

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

don't know how different this is from my 06 W211 which also has shifting 
problems, but with mine, changing the shifter requires stealership 
programming of the shifter to the car.  that's what I know about so 
far.  it seems my shifting trouble may require a new shifter (supposedly 
a used one is not acceptable) so I'm still researching the problem.


good luck -
LarryT
06 E350

On 12/20/2019 12:38 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
I don't know why he doesn't pop in a junkyard tranny, but it looks 
like a really nice car. Somebody up NJ way needs to grab this


https://www.facebook.com/groups/222890474957451/596815980898230/


 Thomas Ritter


Conversation Starter 
· 
42 mins 



Well she's done. Her transmission went. I'm selling her for $1000. 
Interior is near perfect, engine is strong and suspension is flawless. 
Anyone in New Jersey who's interested PM me and I will send you the 
address.






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Re: [MBZ] OT: Murder by hogs

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

the feral hogs decimated bird life in Hawaii.  Most birds there nested 
on the ground and the hogs wiped many species completely out.


I'd like to hunt them as well, but shooting from a chopper would be my 
preference


LarryT

On 11/27/2019 7:35 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Good fun, and some of em make good pork if ya get to em fast enough. 
My uncle and cousins hunted feral pigs in the mountains of Hawaii.   I 
never got a chance to go with them.  THey used an 03A3. probably one 
issued to WWII Corps of Engineers in Hawaii, so long as they did not 
have to leave the Hawaiian major islands.   Some of the Hawaiians like 
to go hunting boars with just a knife. Crazy stuff.   Lotsa people 
hunt hogs there with dogs, and almost every dog gets severely cut up 
at one time or another.   Many dogs are killed by hogs.


Now that I have good friends in TX, maybe I'll get to hunt hogs with 
them some year.


combining aircraft and rifles makes for good fun, so long as nobody is 
shooting AT said aircraft.



G Mann via Mercedes 
November 27, 2019 at 1:47 PM
Caution: Video contains flying, shooting and animal eradication of feral
hogs.
It is, however, on my personal bucket list.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaBN8rp_HZE



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Re: [MBZ] OT: End of the Nuke Era in Switzerland

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Unfortunately, the US has a number of Nukes that will require retirement 
or refueling in the near term.  Without a program to build more we will 
depend on coal/fossil fuel plants to provide power.  Else, the US may 
have some dark days and cold nights


I was hopeful we might see Va start it's Nuke Power industry with Vepco 
looking at a new reactor in the Western part of the state.  Haven't 
heard anything lately.


LarryT

On 12/20/2019 2:03 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

SWITZERLAND47-year-old nuclear power plant shuts down on live TVPublished:
Friday, December 20, 2019

Switzerland today shut down one of its oldest nuclear power plants, part of
a plan to end the domestic production of atomic energy before the middle of
the century.

Operator BKW took the Mühleberg Nuclear Power Plant, located 25 miles west
of the capital Bern, off the grid shortly after midday in a ceremony
broadcast live by Switzerland's main public TV station.

BKW, which is majority owned by the canton of Bern, said it plans to begin
dismantling the plant in January, a process that will take until 2034.
Decommissioning and deposing of radioactive remains is estimated to cost 3
billion Swiss francs ($3.1 billion).

Mühleberg is the smallest of Switzerland's four remaining nuclear power
plants. It began operation in 1972.

After the 2011 Fukushima nuclear power plant disaster in Japan, Switzerland
decided to gradually phase out nuclear power.

Switzerland is home to the world's oldest still-operating nuclear power
plant, Beznau, which will be shut down toward the end of 2029.

The remaining two nuclear plants, Gösgen and Leibstadt, will be shuttered
around 2040 and 2045, respectively.

Switzerland plans to significantly increase the production of renewable
energy from solar and wind over the coming decades to meet its power needs.
As part of the European grid, Switzerland also buys electricity from
neighboring countries such as France, which has numerous nuclear power
plants.

Earlier this week, campaigners submitted enough signatures to force a
referendum on incorporating the goal of making Switzerland "climate
neutral" by 2050 in the country's constitution. Doing so would require
ending virtually all burning of fossil fuels by midcentury. *— Associated
Press*
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[MBZ] Used Car Search Engine

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

trovit.com

It allows specific searches and delivers emails regularly(!!) to your 
mail box.  After I had to give up on our 91 300D I hoped I could find 
another one and plugged in the numbers.  I was getting emails often.  
Too often it turned off and I had to turn it off.  But they did more 
than just the 'normal' sales outlets IMO.


YMMV,
Larry
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Re: [MBZ] w124 rear springs

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

That is exactly correct.  It comes from every WSM I have owned.  They 
want the rubber to be in the driving position - I used to know the 
complete reasoning but it's lost in the Way Back Machine.


Larry

On 10/28/2019 2:00 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Mon, 28 Oct 2019 07:30:19 -0400 Meade Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:


Hmmm, I thought the torque of the control arm nuts and bolts was
supposed to be done with the car resting on all four wheels, in "ready
to drive" condition (nothing loaded but full fuel tank and all fluids
topped up, spare tire and tools in place).

Yes, that is what I have heard, too.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W124 rear subframe R

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Don't forget the new hoses in the trunk ;-)

On 12/20/2019 1:27 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:

Karl or others:

Since Karl has recently done this, I think he has most of the answers.

 I am fixin ta take out the rear subframe of the 124 2.5.   As I 
recall, I have to take out the exhaust, driveshaft rear flex, sway bar 
links, shocks, brake calipers, ABS Sensor in Diff., parking brake 
cables, and of course, the 4 main subframe bolts.  Am I missing anything?


As I recall, the diff has 2 big bolts at the back (10mm allen I think) 
and 2 smaller bolts at the front.   I think these are all into the 
subframe.  Is that right?


What is the best way to lower the unit?   I hope I can balance it on 
the floor jack while I roll it out from under.


More important, what is the best way to raise the subframe  back up 
into position?  Will I need stacks of blocks or an extra person to 
help balance it on the jack as it goes up?


Need to replace the rear brake lines, brake hoses, possibly calipers, 
Rt wheel bearing, parking brake cables,  weld up some rusted holes in 
the body, patch others, derust, clean and paint subframe, and probably 
replace the links.   May need to replace the park brake shoes while 
there.   (YUK)


It has no antislip, so single brake line to the rear, and a T.   I 
only need to replace the lines from the T out, and the hoses.



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Re: [MBZ] W124 rear subframe R

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I believe you're talking about the 91 30 you got from me?  If so, I 
bought it in Richmond and my research found it had lived its life in Ma 
before coming to Va, probably via an auction.


Larry

On 12/20/2019 2:24 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:



LR subframe mount appears to be welded to the body by corrosion of 
AL-FE.   Soaking it now.   Tried beating with no effect.   tried bar, 
but that bends the frame tube.   Flame wrench is not an option because 
I don't have one.   Besides, burning rubber stinks and leaves carbon 
black on everything.


Subrame mount has aluminum center for the bolt, and the body stud is 
steel.


Any earlier MB would have rotted away.   This one just has a few 
cancer spots, but the nuts on the brake lines and hoses are corroded 
to 2-3 mm less OD than original.    Looks now like I should probably 
replace all or part of the brake line to the ABS unit too.


My Dallas 124 is much nicer to work on.  even after 10 years or so in 
IA.  No rust.


Max, if your subframe is not rusty, I may take you up on that

The other 124 I got out of VA 15 yrs ago or so was not rusty. (300TE)

Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
December 20, 2019 at 12:44 PM
Diff is only connected to subframe. I think you've hit all the right
points.

I've got a spare subframe (no diff or axles) you can have if you want to
drag it away from SC.

-
Max
Charleston SC



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Re: [MBZ] 124/201 ball joint tool

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Curly is providing absolutely the best advice!    Last  month I returned 
2 laptops (different sellers) who advertised Back Lit Keyboards which 
neither had. Both advertised Returns and both paid the return shipping.  
But one withheld $100 to "Service and clean" the computer (I had it for 
less than 24 hours) and I filed a complaint.  I rec'd a answer from ebay 
in less than 12 hours and eBay actually paid my full Return Cost no 
questions asked - other than the basics about name/address, etc.  
Because the Seller advertised Backlit Keyboards which neither had.\


Actually I've had good experience with eBay when it comes to returns.  
Keep pushing until you get satisfaction.  Personally, rather than paying 
such a high increase I'd cancel my bid if Ebay or Paypal fail to come to 
your aid.


Good luck!
Larry

On 11/5/2019 10:34 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Just file the complaint with fleabay.   Then wait for their 
pronouncement.   IF that fails, complain to paypal.   THey'll give 
back your money


Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote on 11/5/19 8:02 PM:
I am tempted to tell them to pound sand. Not only that, they have 
several other listings for the same item with the same shipping 
amount other than this listing that says 7 sold.



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Re: [MBZ] Off topic oil question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Don,
    You also have to consider the design of the engines.  Low ZDDP 
mostly affects "Flat-Tappet" designs (think Harley Davidson or flat 4 & 
6 Porsche). (FYI --  ZDDP=Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate)


Here are some examples:
Valvoline (VV150-6PK) MaxLife 10W-40 Higher Mileage Motor Oil. ...
Pennzoil High Mileage Vehicle Oil. ...
Mobil 1 45000 5W-30 High Mileage Motor Oil. ...
Castrol 06470 GTX 20W-50 High Mileage Motor Oil.

Also, try Allen's suggestions or google high ZDDP oils.

Good luck!
LarryT
youroil.net
06 E350
91 E300D (best car I ever owned)

On 10/16/2019 2:18 PM, Don Snook via Mercedes wrote:

For old school NON-MB (cast iron block) and 1984 technology would shell Rotella 
(or something similar) be best because of the higher zinc content?

Donald H. Snook
FedEx Freight
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Cord Cutting

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

speaking pf DVR, one thing I dislike about  Dish is the format they use 
to record stuff on the Recorder.  I'm told there is no way tp convert the
 Dish format to anything that can be used on more traditional formats.  
I like to record some stuff (like LeMans) but unless I am committed to 
Dish, keeping recordings is not likely.  Other than that, Dish has been 
pretty good except for the ocassional streaming interruptions which are 
usually less than 2 or 3 seconds.   When it gets wiindy we often have 
interruptions - I assume the dish is shaking or something.


Has anyone had luck with OTA (over the air) antenna's?
  Maps of local coverage looks promising.

Larry


On 10/13/2019 12:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
I think they all probably do it.  I have been with Dish for nearly 20 
years straight and I am quite sure new customers get it cheaper than I 
do.  I have thought about switching back and for the between direct 
and dish every couple of years but have not bothered.  If these 
streaming services got DVR figured out a little better like dish I 
might cut the cord.  I have found by the time I add up everything I 
would want it is not that much cheaper than what I am paying now and 
everything is pretty much turn key with their receivers.


On 10/13/2019 11:43 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
Does Direct pull the "first year cheap with two year contract" trick, 
or is that Dish?


On October 13, 2019 at 12:10 PM Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:



My cousin went through that recently with Directv. She had some 
issues before and they lowered her bill and got an $80 credit so she 
hasn’t been paying much. That’s all running out. She was gonna 
cancel it altogether but see what deal they pitched her to keep her 
as a customer. You might be able to strong arm them if you say you 
are going to another service.

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Re: [MBZ] SUCCESS!!!!!! IT'S ALIIIIIIIVVVVVEEEE!!!!

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Way to go!!  BTW, what kind of code reader did you use to read the 
tranny codes?  recall how much it was?  Know if any decent code readers 
are for rent?


Your ego gets a great lift to the stratosphere - it's it such a mess 
dealing with all the electronics/computers and such!


Ain't it great when a plan comes together?   ;-)

LarryT

On 10/9/2019 7:18 PM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:
The $600E320 (now the $800E320) is ALIVE!  Checked the trans fluid 
this morning after starting it and running it a bit in neutral and 
running through the gears without moving, I thought it might need more 
but it was spot on with the 7.5qt I put in, so that was good.  Little 
while ago I hooked up the computer and after a bit of frustration got 
it to talk to all the nannies and give a report on all the modules and 
codes and faults and such (there were A LOT!).  Cleared them, there 
were still some that seem to be hard faults with some components or 
something so will deal with those, but the transmission codes cleared 
so that was encouraging.  Took it out for a quick spin and IT 
WORKS  Trans shifts smoothly and properly, all seems well.  Car 
runs well though it seems to have some howling and rumbling coming 
from the back end, might be tires or something, I'll have to check.  
It was sitting for awhile so maybe the tires have some flats spots or 
something.  Everything underneath looked good and clean though, but I 
will check again.


So $200 for conductor plate, new connector, and filter and fluid and 
various bits and the car is now ready to roll!  Will hit the DMV 
tomorrow or Friday and get plates then do some shakedown.  But it 
seems like a really nice car, clean and looks good.  I need a right 
driving light, for some reason it looks like it broke off and is 
missing.  Nothing else it seems.


And I got the fancy computer working!  Turns out it had the 38 pin 
connector up under the fuse panel cover, so maybe using that instead 
of the OBD port was the key.  I'll have to look on the ML and see and 
then get it hooked to that if it has one, maybe I can get it sorted 
easily without having to mess with it much.


So a good Benz day  YAY ME



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Re: [MBZ] Another OT question - ball valves

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Speaking of water supply and such, has anyone done a study comparing the 
payback of installing "instant-on water heaters" at, say, 4 or 5 water 
users (bathrooms, sinks, etc) Vs a central water heater?


I haven't done a google search yet but will do so later today.  In the 
mean time I thought the brain trust might have already analyzed this issue.


TIA,
LarryT

On 10/8/2019 11:47 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Which brings up the array of 12 vacuum solenoid valves used in ACC 3. 
What could ever go wrong? But most of them did make it out of warranty 
period.    Speaking of overcomplicated.


Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote on 10/8/19 6:56 PM:

Yes!
-- Max Dillon Charleston SC On October 8, 2019 7:39:41 PM EDT, Curley 
McLain via Mercedes  wrote:

Solenoid valve.   Gotta run everything with proprietary PCBs and crappy

software.   Can't have manual valves any more.    Never do with a $10
valve when you can do it with a $1500 'lektronic gizmo. 


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Re: [MBZ] Paging Larry T

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Howdy - Yes, it's still here ;-) Sorry I missed your email - had a 
compuer crash and am getting a new one up and running (PITA).


Larry

On 10/5/2019 6:24 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

I sent a message off list, but you didn't respond.
Do you still have the W124?

Rick


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Re: [MBZ] 91 300D Needs to go

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Yep, you understand the damage! ;-)
Larry

On 9/24/2019 5:34 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

I can't remember if Dan's is W124 or W210, but I think it has a leaky evap and 
a OM606.

Larry's '91 is a W124/OM602 with recent evap in an apparently not-worth-saving 
chassis.
Unless Dmitri or JimC or somebody wants to weld in a bunch of microwave metal 
at the rear subframe mounting points...
Mitch.


On September 24, 2019 at 5:23 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
 wrote:


I was confusing this with the car that Dan said he wanted to part with.

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Re: [MBZ] 91 300D Needs to go

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Mitch,
Yes, it can be driven.  And yes, I drove it home from the shop when the 
rust was discovered. But I don't know how it would be on the road.  We 
kept it below 45 on the way home and it was approx. 10 mi.  By the time 
we got home the bearing was really roaring loudly.  I was worried it 
might seize.   The battery in it won't hold a charge for long, the one 
that was in it died and I had another around here I thought had a little 
more life in it than it does.  But I can charge it and it will start and 
can be driven somewhere close.


Actually a few people were interested in it but they planned to drive it 
and I persuaded them that wouldn't be a safe thing to do.  FYI, The 
connection between the top part of the suspension is not critical IMO, 
but the connection where the lower/front link attaches to the chassis 
would cause the tires to wear rapidly.


Are you asking me to store it for a while?

Larry

On 9/24/2019 5:20 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Would it help if somebody who wanted you to store the car for a while paid for 
it in advance?
Did you drive it to the shop for suspension or wheel bearing work, then drive 
it home again when the structural rust was discovered?
Would it be possible for somebody to drive it home carefully, or would it need 
to be trailered off your property?
Mitch.


On September 24, 2019 at 3:41 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes 
 wrote:


Hey Curley,
      Hmm, don't know if I can postpone the salvage route til then.  My
wife wants it gone.
She's been pretty patient so far.  But I understand.  Plus she's got her
eye on the $200 from the scrap yard .  ;-/

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Re: [MBZ] 91 300D Needs to go

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Curley,
    Hmm, don't know if I can postpone the salvage route til then.  My 
wife wants it gone.
She's been pretty patient so far.  But I understand.  Plus she's got her 
eye on the $200 from the scrap yard .  ;-/

But I'll see what she says  Thx


On 9/23/2019 9:42 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
I could pick it up in Dec, but can't get there before.  Floyd should 
rescue it.


Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote on 9/23/19 9:26 AM:
thanks to all who replied.  If I can't find it a good home by the end 
of the week I'll probably take the $200 I'm offered for it as scrap 
and have them take it away.  Hate to see it crushed but we have too 
many cars around here.





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Re: [MBZ] 91 300D Needs to go

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Max, would love to see you take it. ;-)  As you know, I replaced my 
evap twice not too long ago.  (the 1st replacement was bad)  I did the 
2nd one in about 8 hours.


Larry

On 9/20/2019 5:24 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

I'm mighty tempted, and not afraid of an evap R after completing that on
my wagon.  I can get that done in one long day I'll bet.  Have all the
parts except the vacuum pods.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Fri, Sep 20, 2019 at 2:36 PM Dan--- via Mercedes 
wrote:


Day trip to come get it. I’ll sell it cheap. I’ll even provide overnight
accommodations if necessary.

I resigned myself years ago after seeing the job that an evaporator
replacement took in my W124 wagon that I would never do it myself - and I’m
sticking to that promise.

-D


On Sep 20, 2019, at 10:52 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes 

wrote:

Smoke silver metallic (702) exterior and Cream Beige (175) MB-Tex

interior.

-D


On Sep 20, 2019, at 9:45 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Dan, what is the color paint and interior color?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC


On September 20, 2019 9:11:10 AM EDT, Dan--- via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Nope. Getting long in the tooth and the AC leak is getting worse. I am
not doing an evaporator replacement. Ain’t gonna happen.

-D


On Sep 20, 2019, at 8:55 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes

 wrote:

What's wrong with the E300?  Color?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC


On September 20, 2019 8:53:24 AM EDT, Dan--- via Mercedes

 wrote:

I’m going to look at a couple of W210 diesels this weekend. If I

pull

the trigger on one the E300D will get taken out of service.

-D


On Sep 20, 2019, at 8:51 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes

 wrote:

Hm.

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 20, 2019, at 7:48 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes

 wrote:

I’ve got a 95 E300D that’s about ready for the trip. Maybe you

could

make a big swing around the South and get both?

-D


On Sep 20, 2019, at 8:41 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes

 wrote:

Damn too far for me but one of the bottom feeders over there will

get it. If not maybe we can do a relay haul to get it to Okie Acres
Retirement Home for Old Age Benz.

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:51 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes

 wrote:

Hi Gang, My wife wants the '91 300D out of the yard so it will

go

to salvage for $200 unless one of you wants it?  Except for the rear
suspension attaching points being rusted out (on the chassis side)
there are lots of new to nearly new parts.  almost new tires, new
radiator, water pump, and the DVs were rebuilt by a local Indy, GP
Relay is almost new.  If I charge the battery it will light off
instantly.   runs and shifts great.  I hate to see it go but it's
beyond my physical ability to repair.

It's located in Chester, Va. 23831 & can be driven onto a

trailer.

I'd rather see one of you get it than send it to the crusher.

LarryT
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Re: [MBZ] 91 300D Needs to go

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Tim,
The engine is strong.  It always started 1st try even down to the low 
teens without using the block heater.  Tranny is from Rusty/Sun Valley.


The rear suspension was the death knell - before we discovered the 
suspension points in the rear, that connect the rear axle/suspension to 
the body is rusted & no longer connected.   Basically the rear of the 
car is resting on the rear suspension.


IMO repairing it would be difficult and my limited mobility would 
prevent me backyard engineering it. ;-)
You can write me direct at l02tur...@comcast.net is you prefer. 
Sometimes my Mercedes email gets lost in the quantity of mail.


I do want to see the whole car removed and not just the engine if that's 
acceptable?


Larry


On 9/21/2019 12:4The5 PM, Tim Crone via Mercedes wrote:

Hi Larry,

it?  Except for the rear

suspension attaching points being rusted out (on the chassis side) there


Sorry for not paying attention, is the chassis the major problem?  Now that
Jack has mostly sorted one SDL we have a good body and transmission but
need a donor engine.

Thanks!
-Tim

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Re: [MBZ] 91 300D Needs to go

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

thanks to all who replied.  If I can't find it a good home by the end of 
the week I'll probably take the $200 I'm offered for it as scrap and 
have them take it away.  Hate to see it crushed but we have too many 
cars around here.


Thanks to all!
Larry

On 9/20/2019 8:41 AM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

Damn too far for me but one of the bottom feeders over there will get it. If 
not maybe we can do a relay haul to get it to Okie Acres Retirement Home for 
Old Age Benz.

Sent from my iPhone


On Sep 19, 2019, at 9:51 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

Hi Gang, My wife wants the '91 300D out of the yard so it will go to salvage 
for $200 unless one of you wants it?  Except for the rear suspension attaching 
points being rusted out (on the chassis side) there are lots of new to nearly 
new parts.  almost new tires, new radiator, water pump, and the DVs were 
rebuilt by a local Indy, GP Relay is almost new.  If I charge the battery it 
will light off instantly.   runs and shifts great.  I hate to see it go but 
it's beyond my physical ability to repair.

It's located in Chester, Va. 23831 & can be driven onto a trailer.  I'd rather 
see one of you get it than send it to the crusher.

LarryT
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Re: [MBZ] 1982 240D Shifting

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Yours may not be equipped as my 78 was, but mine had a rod running 
across the Valve Cover then to the R. side of the tranny .  at the 
tranny end (or perhaps behind the engine/over the tranny there is a 
pressed in bushing which can make for very sloppy shifting.  It's hard 
to get to but easy to press in.  But it is may not be a problem on 
yours. I had trouble finding this part and ended up calling MB Classic 
who provided it without any trouble.  You can have it if needed..


BTW, you will have to be persistent with Sun Valley.  I put one of their 
ATs in and it took many emails for them to respond to my problem.


Larry

Kevin Kraly via Mercedes wrote on 9/19/19 6:34 PM:
We took Hildegard out for a test drive today, and she seems to be 
running better since the valve adjustment. The shift points seem to 
occur at specific speed and engine RPM rather than throttle 
positions. All vac lines leading inside the car are disconnected and 
capped, but all of the lines atop the valve cover seem to be 
connected, but most likely not in their proper positions. I know that 
there’s a VCV on top  of the IP that controls the transmission, but 
I’m not sure if it’s even working. I may have to take it into a shop 
since I can’t see a pressure gage for vacuum at the different ports. 
What should I check first?

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1982 240D 191Kmi, Hildegard

Sent from my iPhone




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[MBZ] 91 300D Needs to go

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang, My wife wants the '91 300D out of the yard so it will go to 
salvage for $200 unless one of you wants it?  Except for the rear 
suspension attaching points being rusted out (on the chassis side) there 
are lots of new to nearly new parts.  almost new tires, new radiator, 
water pump, and the DVs were rebuilt by a local Indy, GP Relay is almost 
new.  If I charge the battery it will light off instantly.   runs and 
shifts great.  I hate to see it go but it's beyond my physical ability 
to repair.


It's located in Chester, Va. 23831 & can be driven onto a trailer.  I'd 
rather see one of you get it than send it to the crusher.


LarryT
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Re: [MBZ] Shoe Repair Shops

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I have my orthopedic shoes modified by a local leather shop who also 
does a lot of shoe repair work.  They're located in historic Hopewell, 
Va.  If I can help with the logistics just tell me what I can do...


LarryT

On 9/16/2019 6:50 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:

On 13/09/2019 6:03 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

There do not appear to be shoe repair shops anymore.


Got one here.

-- Jim
___


Still some around here too.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] 95 diesel wagon

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Why do ya'll post stuff like this?  Just when I am getting over the loss 
of my 91 sedan along comes a inexpensive 300D SW!  I could sell my 
explorer and get this!  hmmm...


LarryT

On 7/8/2019 12:55 AM, Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes wrote:

This is actually a really good starting point for a 606 swap, but it would
be a huge step backward for me. I am pretty close to bolting an entire
shelf of v8 driveline and Finnish induction and fuel injection stuff into
my 87 wagon. Just need to figure out why my metric 10mm iso bubble flare
tool will not work on 3/8" stainless tubing! The OD is nearly identical,
but the tool die will not grab the 3/8" tubing. It is the oil supply line
for the turbos.


On Sun, Jul 7, 2019, 5:08 PM Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


New intake manifold with big Cummins turbo and yer good ta go...

--FT

On 7/7/19 7:00 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

There you go Karl, your next project!  We've got it all mapped out for
you...
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Sun, Jul 7, 2019 at 6:53 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


And slam it to the ground

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 7, 2019, at 5:44 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Just slap a turbo on there, run the stack through hood, and 
-
Max
Charleston SC



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Re: [MBZ] Duplicate Messages

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks!

On 3/3/2019 12:07 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

Unsubscribe, and then resubscribe.

On Mar 2, 2019 6:40 PM, "Craig via Mercedes"  wrote:


On Sat, 2 Mar 2019 18:23:47 -0500 Floyd Thursby via Mercedes
 wrote:


no

Now that* was an awful thing to do, Floyd.


Craig


* A first reply at  Sat, 2 Mar 2019 18:23:39 -0500
   and a second at   Sat, 2 Mar 2019 18:23:47 -0500




On 3/2/19 1:32 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Hi All,
For some reason I am getting 2 copies of each email.  Any way to stop
this?


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[MBZ] Duplicate Messages

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi All,
For some reason I am getting 2 copies of each email.  Any way to stop this?
Larry
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Re: [MBZ] I Picked up the “Sherman Tank” W124

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

My 78 240D used to do that, especially when near empty.

On 2/25/2019 3:39 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes wrote:

I reckon I’ll take it off the car and do it on the bench with the nuts and 
bolts part. I hope you guys are gonna be patient with my thousand and one 
questions on this thing. Something that just occurred which kind of freaked me 
out a little bit is that I stopped to put fuel in it and I go to take the fuel 
cap off the furl tank is pressurized. WTF

Bob R

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 25, 2019, at 12:04 PM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes  
wrote:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-shift-bushing-installer-baum-tools-b7200#reviews

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Pilot asleep at controls of 747

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

What I think he said was: a full crew (#1) handled the plane during 
landing/take-off while the other rested, then Crew #2 that was resting 
handled the duties during the middle part of the flight. I think a 
crew consists of 3 to 5 or more members depending on the plane.


On 2/25/2019 3:30 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

So are you saying that in essence, the sleeping pilot is nothing to worry
about?

On Mon, Feb 25, 2019 at 11:49 AM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Sydney to LA on the a380 qantas run two complete flight crews. One handles
takeoff and landing. The other handles the middle bit. Crew 1 sleeps in the
middle.

For takeoff and landing there is always an extra officer on the flight deck
whose job is only to watch the other three and pick up any errors or
irregularities. A friend is a pilot with them.

On Sun, Feb 24, 2019, 2:08 PM archer75--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 15:28:45 -0500
"arche...@embarqmail.com"  wrote:


Pilot asleep at controls of 747.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BuHB1AyHpUM/


Gerry wrote:
I don't see how airline pilots stay awake on long flights with the
autopilots flying the plane. Do they take turns napping? Read books? Play
games? Seems like a boring job most of the time.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


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Re: [MBZ] Ran when parked $123,456

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

"Ran when Parked?"  Ha!  that's for code for "but it hasn't run since."  
I could say that about my 91 300D that is unsafe to drive!
 Speaking if which, I gotta get rid of that car.  Anyone interested for 
$1000?  Engine passed a Oil Analysis a few years ago and I have complete 
log of work done.  Transmission is a SunValley rebuild bought from 
Rusty.  Interior is 90%. all glass and sheet metal is good. 4 recently 
new tires (95%) .   Stereo has good 6 disc CD changer, Amp and Tuner in 
trunk .

Larry

On 02/14/2019 9:46 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes wrote:

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300 D Sedan 4D Make an offer

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/774635599573004/



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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Lover

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Attempted Murder over a E350??  He has severe mental problems IMO.  I 
wouldn't put up a fight over a E350.  Now it would be a different story 
if I had a W108 3.5L or 4.5L.  Even (maybe more so) a W124 E500 that 
Porsche helped build. (or a 91-99 300D 2.5)Naturally the Pagoda's and 
300SL would be included.  But a E350? He could probably lease a 2016 or 
newer for less than $400/mo. Sheesh...


LarryT


02/14/2019 2:21 PM, archer75--- via Mercedes wrote:We might think we are 
profound Mercedes aficionados, but here is the true champion:

SOUTHWEST RANCHES, Fla. (AP) - A Florida Mercedes-Benz owner is charged with 
attempted murder after police say he fired on two repo men who were towing his 
car.

The South Florida Sun Sentinel reports that the repo men were confronted by 
57-year-old Juan Barquero early Thursday outside his suburban Fort Lauderdale 
home as they prepared to tow his Mercedes-Benz E350 sedan. The men told police 
Barquero had a gun and ordered them to lower his car.

The repo men jumped inside their truck, but when they started to pull away 
police say Barquero fired several shots at them, narrowly missing.

The men drove away and called police, who arrested Barquero.

Jail records show Barquero was being held Saturday without bail on attempted 
murder and other charges. Court records do not list an attorney.

https://www.wftv.com/news/florida/police-mercedes-owner-fires-on-repo-men-taking-his-car/917239777

---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Jim,
    Wow!  You have managed to perfectly describe my social scene, my 
financial status and how I manage my time (and some other stuff I 
suspect).   Yikes, it's spooky!

You're quite the Savant!
;-)
Larry

On 02/12/2019 5:17 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

When talking to your friends and neighbors, which is more satisfying?

1) I bought another generator
2) I bought a parts generator and made one out of two
3) I bought a new harbor freight engine for my generator
4) I fixed the broken block on my generator with JB-Weld

#4 also doesn't really cost anything but your time, and some of us have plenty
of that to allocate to the entertainment budget.  You just have to be willing 
for
it not to work out, but even that gives you a bunch of entertainment and leaves
you with three other choices.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Cool!  That's actually the exact size/configuration I need!  I'll watch 
HF for their sales.  Thanks for the heads up!


Larry

On 02/12/2019 4:56 PM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
If you are looking for a new engine you might want to look at Harbor 
freight. If you buy at the right time you could get 25% off or more. 
Right now their 420cc horizontal shaft engine is $360. Wait for a sale 
and it will go down.


I bought a 6 hp engine to replace the 30 year old B cast iron one on 
my log splitter because it was having a lot of starting problems. With 
the new engine it starts at the first pull and runs a lot stronger due 
to the overhead valves rather then the old L head that B used for so 
long. Have had it for 2 years so far, it works great and for less then 
$75 after sale and discount. Will it last 30 years? Who cares. A new 
B probably won't either and costs a whole lot more.



Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Hi Curt,
It's a 7000w with 10.5Kw peak.   The engine is 420cc and while I have 
been unable to locate the HP it is supposed to be 14-ish. It's called 
a B Type 2100 w/elec. start, if interested.


Thanks for the suggestion to look at CL, I will hopefully find a repl 
engine or suitable Generator.  It could be a basket case if the price 
was right.  My existing Generator could provide any parts needed, exc 
the case.


The Champion is an option, probably available at our local Ag 
Supply.  The Honda too much $'s for my limited need.  Of course, the 
need is often inversely proportional to the preparedness which dates 
back to one of Murphy's many Laws.


Thanks for the options...

Larry

On 02/12/2019 1:18 PM, Curt Raymond wrote

What size is the generator?
If it were me I'd either

1. troll Craigslist for a replacement similar to what you have for a 
fraction of the new price


2. Buy a "Champion" brand from FLAPS or Tractor Supply or whatever. 
We have one at camp, we've had it, I forget, 6 or 7 years and its 
been great. Cheap too.


3. Buy a Honda and be done with it. While the Honda will be 2x$ 
option #2 it will last you the rest of your life and be MUCH 
quieter, probably use less fuel too.


If I needed a generator for home I'd go for option #3. Luckily I 
have a Fred who gave me a generator which currently lives at my 
in-laws house. I attribute it (ie being prepared) to why we haven't 
lost power this year...


-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 12:48:18 PM EST, Larry Turner via 
Mercedes  wrote:



Hi Guys,
Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator.
following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from 
the

tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery
and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking
and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad. At least
that was a cheap option.

What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found 
one

of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had
completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a
hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals
are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the
piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I 
must be

seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the
hole was not moving as I turned the engine.

So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail
for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the
generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or 
such,
but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap 
consistently.


It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't
find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what
it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I 
contacted

Troy-Bilt and B but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went
no further.  No joy in Mudville.

I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B engine but so far my search
has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions about
what to look for when I was troubleshooting.

Thanks again to all who helped...
LarryT

On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed 
increased

> or sound changed before shutdown...
>
> Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
> bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass 
through the
> main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... 
finally,
> water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and 
water,
> being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. 
Engine dies,
> restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main 
jet...

> fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..
>
> Put a can under

Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

If one was loose it came that way from the factory.   I guess their QC 
program might be lacking...  One of the things that impressed me when I 
started taking things apart was how snug (tight actually) the fasteners 
were.  I'm sure there must be some torque wrench settings that aren't 
set properly.


Hmmm...  I better check the tightness of other fasteners when I try to 
repair the coil.


Thanks for the info about the coil!  I even have some brass feelers.

Larry

On 02/12/2019 4:07 PM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
The last time I did one of those air gap was .010 in. Should still be 
the same. Used to be a feeler gauge set always had a brass .010 blade 
on it for just that use. It probably doesn't matter too much other 
then a larger gap would make a weaker spark and too small a gap could 
cause the flywheel to hit the mag and knock it loose and put a hole 
into the case which sounds like what happened to your engine. Possibly 
one bolt not properly tightened?


Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

I thought that kind of stuff only happened to me!  Condolences.

Thanks for the suggestion!  I suppose I could fill the hole with JB 
and shape it so I'd have room to drill and tap it.  Then it would 
just be a matter of finding the right spacers and washers (which I've 
been "collecting" for 50 years) until I could adjust a air gap that 
would work.


How tight is the tolerance on the air gap?  Would I have much wiggle 
room or is it really precise, like points?


On 02/12/2019 12:52 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
I think if you were so inclined you could absolutely fabricate some 
kind of JB-Weld attached perch for your coil.
Might take a bit of doing, but could it be all that worse than my 
welding the crankcase back together on my

tiller when it threw a rod through the side?

-- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Yeah, push button is nice.  but the battery wasn't charging properly on 
1 jan (the date it died) and we started it with the pull rope - started 
instantly which surprised me.  Also, I may have a compression release 
because it pulled so easy.


Yeah, waiting til Spring would be ideal, but here in Va we have snow.ice 
in the winter than Hurricanes in the Summer/Fall. So it's hard to say 
when we'll need one again.  Like I mentioned, we bought this one in 2012 
and only used it for (I think) 24-30 hours in ~2014, then again the 1st 
of this year when it started instantly but died after about 6 hours.


Va. kind of strange with odd weather.  Sometimes we get hit hard with 
Hurricanes then Ice storms and both take out the power.  Our 
neighborhood has underground power but it has to get here...


on yours, I would think the needle and jet may be damaged because of the 
Ethanol.   I talked to our local small engine shop who told me that was 
a large part of their business.


Anyway, got to use Sta-Bil as I'm sure you know  

Thanks,
Larry



On 02/12/2019 3:54 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Thats a pretty big one. Electric start is pretty nice.

If you don't need it right away the best time to look is in spring. 
Somebody buys a generator during an outage and in the spring gets rid 
of it because they "Won't need that again." or they bought one 2 years 
ago, the gas got some water in it and it won't start. IIRC thats how 
Fred got the generator I have.


Which reminds me I need to take my 1200w generator apart, it'll run 
okay but is difficult to start, I'm sure the carb needs cleaning. Its 
got barely any time on it and has sat a lot.


-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 3:47:53 PM EST, Larry Turner 
 wrote:



Hi Curt,
It's a 7000w with 10.5Kw peak.   The engine is 420cc and while I have 
been unable to locate the HP it is supposed to be 14-ish.  It's called 
a B Type 2100 w/elec. start, if interested.


Thanks for the suggestion to look at CL, I will hopefully find a repl 
engine or suitable Generator.  It could be a basket case if the price 
was right.  My existing Generator could provide any parts needed, exc 
the case.


The Champion is an option, probably available at our local Ag Supply.  
The Honda too much $'s for my limited need.  Of course, the need is 
often inversely proportional to the preparedness which dates back to 
one of Murphy's many Laws.


Thanks for the options...

Larry

On 02/12/2019 1:18 PM, Curt Raymond wrote
What size is the generator?
If it were me I'd either

1. troll Craigslist for a replacement similar to what you have for a 
fraction of the new price


2. Buy a "Champion" brand from FLAPS or Tractor Supply or whatever. We 
have one at camp, we've had it, I forget, 6 or 7 years and its been 
great. Cheap too.


3. Buy a Honda and be done with it. While the Honda will be 2x$ option 
#2 it will last you the rest of your life and be MUCH quieter, 
probably use less fuel too.


If I needed a generator for home I'd go for option #3. Luckily I have 
a Fred who gave me a generator which currently lives at my in-laws 
house. I attribute it (ie being prepared) to why we haven't lost power 
this year...


-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 12:48:18 PM EST, Larry Turner via 
Mercedes  <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:



Hi Guys,
Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator.
following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from the
tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery
and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking
and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad.  At least
that was a cheap option.

What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found one
of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had
completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a
hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals
are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the
piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I must be
seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the
hole was not moving as I turned the engine.

So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail
for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the
generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or such,
but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap consistently.

It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't
find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what
it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I contacted
Troy-Bilt and B but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went
no further.  No joy in Mudville.

I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B engine but so far my search
has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions a

Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

You know, now that you mention it, I may have some of those alum rods to 
"braze" with - I think I have some that will melt using propane but I 
hopefully left the instructions with the rods.   I'll look tomorrow.


Think that'll stick to cast iron?  Pretty sure that's what the case is 
made of but I have the specs around here I can check.


Thanks for the suggestion!!

Larry

On 02/12/2019 3:20 PM, MG via Mercedes wrote:
How about using some of that aluminum solder rod that the AC people 
use to solder the aluminum lines in AC units. You could solder the 
perch right back onto the case. You may even be able to build it up a 
bit to make it hold better. Should be stronger then JB weld. I used 
some to fix a hole in the condenser joint on the 123 last year and it 
has worked great so far. Got it at a welding supply store. It was only 
about $28 for 5 sticks. If I remember right they have different 
formulations for strength. Just takes a propane torch to do the job.


Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:
I think if you were so inclined you could absolutely fabricate some 
kind of JB-Weld attached perch for your coil.
Might take a bit of doing, but could it be all that worse than my 
welding the crankcase back together on my

tiller when it threw a rod through the side?

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Curt,
It's a 7000w with 10.5Kw peak.   The engine is 420cc and while I have 
been unable to locate the HP it is supposed to be 14-ish.  It's called a 
B Type 2100 w/elec. start, if interested.


Thanks for the suggestion to look at CL, I will hopefully find a repl 
engine or suitable Generator.  It could be a basket case if the price 
was right.  My existing Generator could provide any parts needed, exc 
the case.


The Champion is an option, probably available at our local Ag Supply.  
The Honda too much $'s for my limited need.  Of course, the need is 
often inversely proportional to the preparedness which dates back to one 
of Murphy's many Laws.


Thanks for the options...

Larry

On 02/12/2019 1:18 PM, Curt Raymond wrote

What size is the generator?
If it were me I'd either

1. troll Craigslist for a replacement similar to what you have for a 
fraction of the new price


2. Buy a "Champion" brand from FLAPS or Tractor Supply or whatever. We 
have one at camp, we've had it, I forget, 6 or 7 years and its been 
great. Cheap too.


3. Buy a Honda and be done with it. While the Honda will be 2x$ option 
#2 it will last you the rest of your life and be MUCH quieter, 
probably use less fuel too.


If I needed a generator for home I'd go for option #3. Luckily I have 
a Fred who gave me a generator which currently lives at my in-laws 
house. I attribute it (ie being prepared) to why we haven't lost power 
this year...


-Curt

On Tuesday, February 12, 2019, 12:48:18 PM EST, Larry Turner via 
Mercedes  wrote:



Hi Guys,
Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator.
following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from the
tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery
and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking
and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad.  At least
that was a cheap option.

What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found one
of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had
completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a
hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals
are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the
piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I must be
seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the
hole was not moving as I turned the engine.

So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail
for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the
generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or such,
but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap consistently.

It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't
find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what
it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I contacted
Troy-Bilt and B but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went
no further.  No joy in Mudville.

I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B engine but so far my search
has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions about
what to look for when I was troubleshooting.

Thanks again to all who helped...
LarryT

On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
> Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed 
increased

> or sound changed before shutdown...
>
> Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
> bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass 
through the

> main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... finally,
> water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and 
water,
> being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. 
Engine dies,

> restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main jet...
> fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..
>
> Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of float bowl,
> drop bowl, with contents into can.. Inspect for water Bet that 
is your

> problem..
>
> Ethanol gas is hydroscopic.. it draws moisture and absorbs it .. said
> moisture then condenses in to carb in droplets.
>
> On Sat, Jan 12, 2019 at 6:31 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com <mailto:mercedes@okiebenz.com>> wrote:
>
>> The old way to manage the 'oil alert' shutoff was to short out the
>> ignition like an ignition switch does.
>> Some generators have a solenoid on the carb operated by the oil level
>> switch, usually through a control box.
>>
>> If the engine note changed before shutdown, the shutdown wasn't purely
>> electrical. Switching off the ignition just results in the engine 
coasting

>> to a stop and quickly.
>> But it might invo

Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I thought that kind of stuff only happened to me!  Condolences.

Thanks for the suggestion!  I suppose I could fill the hole with JB and 
shape it so I'd have room to drill and tap it.  Then it would just be a 
matter of finding the right spacers and washers (which I've been 
"collecting" for 50 years) until I could adjust a air gap that would work.


How tight is the tolerance on the air gap?  Would I have much wiggle 
room or is it really precise, like points?


On 02/12/2019 12:52 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

I think if you were so inclined you could absolutely fabricate some kind of 
JB-Weld attached perch for your coil.
Might take a bit of doing, but could it be all that worse than my welding the 
crankcase back together on my
tiller when it threw a rod through the side?

-- Jim




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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Guys,
Finally had the weather and inclination to work on the generator. 
following your suggestion to check the fuel, I removed all fuel from the 
tank and let it air out, then hooked my battery charger to the battery 
and then cranked and check for spark.  I got zero spark while cranking 
and decided to check out the coil thinking it might be bad.  At least 
that was a cheap option.


What I found when I pulled the cover with the recoil starter I found one 
of the pedestals that hold the coil/magneto assy near the magnet had 
completely broken away!   As I removed the broken pieces I could see a 
hole in the crankcase where the pedestals was formed.  The 2 pedestals 
are a integral part of the case BTW.  I 1st thought I was seeing the 
piston in the hole, but as I turned the engine by hand I noted I must be 
seeing a sleeve rather than the piston as the part I could see thru the 
hole was not moving as I turned the engine.


So it appears I will have to find a replacement motor which are avail 
for $400-$500.  IOW, about 1/2 of my original investment in the 
generator.  I could probably close the hole in the case with JB or such, 
but would have no way to mount the coil and set the air gap consistently.


It strange that this part would break away from the engine; I didn't 
find anything loose that could cause this kind of damage but it is what 
it is.  I don't think I ran it for more than 30 -36 hours.   I contacted 
Troy-Bilt and B but both just restated their 1 year warranty and went 
no further.  No joy in Mudville.


I'd love to find a case for the 420cc B engine but so far my search 
has turned up empty.   Anyway, lots of people gave me suggestions about 
what to look for when I was troubleshooting.


Thanks again to all who helped...
LarryT

On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed increased
or sound changed before shutdown...

Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass through the
main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... finally,
water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and water,
being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. Engine dies,
restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main jet...
fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..

Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of float bowl,
drop bowl, with contents into can.. Inspect for water Bet that is your
problem..

Ethanol gas is hydroscopic.. it draws moisture and absorbs it .. said
moisture then condenses in to carb in droplets.

On Sat, Jan 12, 2019 at 6:31 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


The old way to manage the 'oil alert' shutoff was to short out the
ignition like an ignition switch does.
Some generators have a solenoid on the carb operated by the oil level
switch, usually through a control box.

If the engine note changed before shutdown, the shutdown wasn't purely
electrical. Switching off the ignition just results in the engine coasting
to a stop and quickly.
But it might involve a fuel shutoff like is found on the carburetors of my
Subaru generator and the Briggs engine on my Trail Mower. The mixture would
go lean and then the engine would cut out when it got too lean to sustain
fire.

But if it is the oil alert, is it because the oil level is low, the switch
is bad, the wiring is bad, or the 'black box' is bad?
I'd say step one is to make sure the oil level reads maximum.
Step two, shut off the fuel, take the hose off at the carb, put the end of
the hose in a container, and turn the fuel back on. Does the gas tank
supply fuel to the carb?
Step 3, put the plug wire on a loose spark plug and hold it while the wife
pulls the starter rope. If you say "yeow" and drop the plug, the ignition
is good. I used to use #3 as a last resort in my youth when working on
motorcycles and lawn mowers, but it's a fast and effective test.
After step 3 it gets less simple to diagnose.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] The car I had before I bought a Mercedes diesel ...

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I had a 69 Lotus Europa bought in 73.  Had a problem with the Renault 
engine blowing head gaskets and my size 9.5 shoes meant I had to remove 
them and drive barefoot because the pedal box was tiny!.  Anyway, that 
car only weighed around 1200# so the 85hp made that little car SCREAM.  
When it ran ;-)


LarryT

On 01/31/2019 2:59 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-lotus-europa-7/

Mine was a 1969 in red.

While I was in the USAF in the fall of 1971 and stationed at Lowry AFB, I
drove it from Denver, Colorado, to Pasadena, California and back. It was
a blast to drive.

In driving through Nevada, which at the time had no speed limits, I
averaged 103 mph border-to-border, including slowing down to go through
Las Vegas. (This was the days when the Interstate did not go all the way
through -- there was even a stretch of surface roads near a small town
out in the middle of nowhere in Utah which had signs warning, "No gas
stations for 129 miles, check your gas gauge!")

In Pasadena, I found there was no thermostat in the housing, so I
installed one.

On the way back, it was quite cold one morning. After I had been driving
a while, I noticed smoke out the exhaust. This got progressively worse to
the point I had to check the gas and fill up the oil.

Back in Colorado, I drove it a little, but mostly parked it. I eventually
rebuilt the engine (my second rebuild job, the first on my 1959 Alfa Romeo
Spyder Veloce when I was in college in Pasadena) in the Lowry AFB auto
shop.

When I opened it up, I found the skirt of one of the pistons had
disintegrated and the pieces had fallen to the bottom of the pan. In
addition, the oil scraper ring of that piston had broken into several
pieces, one sizeable piece of which was stuck in the sludge right next to
one of the timing chain sprockets. It was a wonder that the engine did not
come apart leaving me stranded on cold, snowy roads. I am greatful it did
not!

I kept the Lotus Europa when I was transferred to Peterson Field east of
Colorado Springs. There I located a source of proper parts for the car
and did things like put the correct cooling fan on the (small) radiator,
which was in the front, and get shop manuals.

Upon reading the shop manuals, I found the statement, "If the pins
holding the front suspension A-arms are bent, replacement of the chassis
is strongly advised. If the pins are cracked, replacement of the chassis
is mandatory."

After a while working on the car and thinking about this, I decided it
would be best if I sold the car. I looked at a 1954 Ford Station wagon,
which is the car on which I learned to drive, but did not get it.

One of the fellows with whom I worked at the Jet Propulsion Laboratory
when I was in college had regaled me with stories of his father's
Mercedes diesel and how reliable it was. At that point in my life,
reliable was important, so I started considering Mercedes diesels.

I looked at a Mercedes Diesel Ponton (180D, IIRC, though I do not recall
the year), and was impressed by its ability to navigate drainage dips
crossing the road, but did not purchase that one, either.

I eventually wound up at Pikes Peak Mercedes talking with a salesman
about a new 1972 220D/8. I offered my Lotus Europa in trade. I made
several visits there over the next two weeks or so. He eventually came up
with a deal I found acceptable. I went to the Ent AFB Credit Union and
asked for a loan. That process took a while, but finally I went to talk
directly to the fellow who was in charge. I had asked for a loan for
something like $5600 of a purchase price of $7124.50. He was hesitant to
make the loan, but asked what I wanted to purchase. When I told him a new
Mercedes diesel, he said, "Oh, I didn't know you wanted to buy something
of that value," and immediately wrote out the check.

That was the start of my Mercedes infection ...


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: 1992 Mercedes Benz 300D Turbo Diesel

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey!  I have a great engine in my 91 300D! Make me a offer? Comes with a 
Sun Valley rebuilt Auto Trans and a 91 300D attached. ;-)

LarryT

On 02/10/2019 9:32 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Sorry if I rained on the parade. What would raise a caution flag for me is
that it ran poorly and present owner changed filters [don't know how many
times at this point].  To my experience, that indicates the previous owner
was not running clean fuel, which also tells me he was not doing the acid
check or removal. Thus, hidden damage.

OTOH, if the rest of the car is nice, and you had a spare engine and fuel
tank Bobs yer Unkle..for the right buy in price...

On Sun, Feb 10, 2019 at 12:43 PM Bob Rentfro via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Sounds like, that if you were looking for a car to drive a 80 mile commute
for the next three year, you’d pass on this.

I suppose the fact that it hadn’t sold by now should tell me something.

Thanks, Grant.

Bob R

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 10, 2019, at 11:46 AM, G Mann via Mercedes 

wrote:

Bob,
I'll take a shot at your very good question "Can I diagnose if there is
damage".

Answer #1: If it has had  unfiltered and unheated WVO used in sufficient
quantity,  the damage will be apparent, if you look for it. It is "hidden
damage" because it will be internal to engine and fuel system, but that
damage will show up as hard starts, poor idle, poor acceleration, and low
power under load. [All subjective calls for someone looking at a "new"

car,

so a challenge.]

Answer #2: Scenario 2 is the car was used by Previous Owner who knew how

to

manage a WVO system, only ran filtered and de-acidified WVO, The car is
equipped with a separate dedicated WVO tank AND a WVO heating system that
ensures 180 F oil delivered to the IP.
Inspection of the car and looking for all those WVO system components in
working order, will answer some concerns, interrogation of the Previous
owner as to if he used it correctly, will answer others, maybe.

Answer #3: IP and injector damage has happened, along with precup and

valve

carbon buildup, the only  question is, can you live with it until you can
afford to replace the IP and injectors, pull the head and remove carbon,
repair the damage done to rings, cylinder walls, and piston skirts, and
other rotating parts in the engine which are the result of incomplete
combustion of WVO and high carbon accumulation on those parts and in the
oil system.

I have a friend of several years who runs a company that rebuilds Diesel
Injection Pumps. His experience with WVO engines and pumps is such that

he

now turns away work on a WVO IP, simply because the internal damage is so
high the pumps invariably, on tear down inspection, fall into the "Beyond
Economic Repair" box.
Owners routinely refuse to spend the bucks for a new pump or a new

rebuilt

pump PLUS a core charge because their WVO pump is junk.

Clearances on mechanical injection pumps is very tight, WVO with acid not
removed destroys those clearances, at the most critical places to make

and

hold pressure. This loss of clearance alters engine timing, which loses
performance, starting, idle... etc etc..
<--->
I have a depth of experience  in these issues and the WVO / BioDiesel
world. In 2007 I designed, built, and certified a BioDiesel refinery with
design capacity of 20mm gallons per month. Pretty much danced all the

steps

in the WVO world over the past 20 yrs in one capacity or another.

Hope this helps,
Grant...


On Sun, Feb 10, 2019 at 9:58 AM Bob Rentfro via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I appreciate Curley, GMann and Curt’s explanation on this but I was just
curious what someone like me could inspect on a vehicle like that to

see if

waste oil has done bad things.
Is it an acute or a chronic thing?

Bob R

Sent from my iPad


On Feb 10, 2019, at 9:31 AM, Bob Rentfro  wrote:

As is my luck, this is in Vegas so I can’t simply go give it a look.

Plus, I’m not even sure what to look at/check out to see if the waste

oil

usage has done some irreparable damage. The current owner says he

doesn’t

know how often the PO used the waste oil and he has not sent me a pic of
the setup that is in the car.  Ugh

Bob R

Sent from my iPad


On Feb 10, 2019, at 8:11 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Biod won't hurt anything, it's basically diesel. Veggie oil is what

you

need to worry about. Most veggie "conversions" are "I'm winging it".

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android

On Sat, Feb 9, 2019 at 9:04 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes<

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:   Well if it has been run on bio it might
mean  run away. That said my 2.5t

ON 602 was best car I had in 55 years of driving. Maybe it is just the
viton lines as Kevin said. Also find out what % BioD was run. Waste

veg

or

commercial BioD?  Could be a good buy.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Feb 9, 2019 8:50 PM, "Bob Rentfro via Mercedes" <

mercedes@okiebenz.com>

wrote:

Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Max,
    Sounds like a plan.  Once I drain the bowl I'll know better how 
much water I may have in my gas cans.  I suspect the gas in my Gen is 
much older than the fuel in the gas cans - maybe going back to 2012.  
The gas cans are used for the lawn mowers and usually end up empty at 
some point every Summer, especially since I'm not the one taking care of 
the grass anymore.

I'll let ya'll know what I find...

It's not supposed to get above 34F today so I need to bundle up even in 
the garage.   Br


Larry

On 01/13/2019 9:26 AM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Larry,

Sounds like you simply need to drain / clean the carb, drain and refill the 
tank. Take old stale gas to a recycling place.

I only store fuel that is ethanol free. In my area, many gas stations have a 
dedicated pump just for ethanol free. Fill my storage as necessary, add a 
stabilizer, but make every effort to consume within a year. Generally in the 
spring I'll put all the leftover fuel into our gasser car. I also store the 
generator with no fuel in the carb (shut off fuel then run the generator until 
it dies).


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Youroil.net
PMO Carbs / Weber Parts / Oil Analysis
91 300D
74 911  

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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

      One thing I noticed about Mr Funnel was the FAQ saying "Do not 
fill from a gas pump into portable fuel containers using Mr. Funnel" 
which would seem to make it much more difficult to use.  Am I supposed 
to take my Gen to the gas station whenever it needs fuel?   That would 
negate a lot of the positives IMO.  Or am I not understanding what 
they're suggesting?


  I was laying here thinking and evidently, I did a bad thing - when I 
bought the generator I test ran it and changed the oil. Then put it in 
my small storage barn where it stays plugged in (electric start).  So 
it's been in the barn out of the wind and rain but we have summers with 
high humidity and moisture certainly could have gotten into the fuel in 
the tank there.  I guess I was shooting myself in the foot when I bought 
5-10 gal of fuel for the gen last summer when we had a hurricane bearing 
down.  I left the gas cans (also stored in the barn) and used them in 
the lawn mowers.  But the fuel tank of the gen was full (ready to be 
used) and sucking moisture in from the air.  Even though the fuel tank 
cap is  very snugly fitted, I suspect airborne moisture could still get 
into the gen tank and my storage tanks.  It seems to be a bad idea to 
stockpile fuel for emergencies.  We were without power for 7 days and a 
hurricane that got us for 9 days. Unfortunately, the local gas stations 
also lost power so we were screwed without a fuel storage ability.  Now 
it seems like even that is a bad idea.
    While the funnel may not work that well as reported by G Mann, (and 
his liquor and water analogy) ;-) I gotta think they're onto something 
with the concept.  After all, they have water filtration straws that 
will (reportedly) filter contaminates from dirty water and make it 
drinkable.  I'm not ready to test it but they are sold everywhere and if 
they didn't work I would think the company would have been sued into 
oblivion by now.   Seems like a Mr Funnel would work with fuel.


Thanks again for the great suggestions/conversations.
Larry

On 01/13/2019 6:56 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
Thank you Sir!  I will check that 1st and let ya'll know.  Sounds like 
a definite likelihood.  Hope that's it, then I won't have to worry 
about testing the black boxes.  Ethanol in the fuel has caused problem 
for me in small engines before, usually the needle and seat.  I wish 
the corn farmers would let that go!  I hear some in the govt are 
pushing for even higher ethanol levels in the near future.  Even more 
problem for gas engines!


LarryT
On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:
Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed 
increased

or sound changed before shutdown...

Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass through 
the

main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... finally,
water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and 
water,
being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. Engine 
dies,

restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main jet...
fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..

Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of float bowl,
drop bowl, with contents into can.. Inspect for water Bet that is 
your

problem..

Ethanol gas is hydroscopic.. it draws moisture and absorbs it .. said
moisture then condenses in to carb in droplets.

On Sat, Jan 12, 2019 at 6:31 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


The old way to manage the 'oil alert' shutoff was to short out the
ignition like an ignition switch does.
Some generators have a solenoid on the carb operated by the oil level
switch, usually through a control box.

If the engine note changed before shutdown, the shutdown wasn't purely
electrical. Switching off the ignition just results in the engine 
coasting

to a stop and quickly.
But it might involve a fuel shutoff like is found on the carburetors 
of my
Subaru generator and the Briggs engine on my Trail Mower. The 
mixture would
go lean and then the engine would cut out when it got too lean to 
sustain

fire.

But if it is the oil alert, is it because the oil level is low, the 
switch

is bad, the wiring is bad, or the 'black box' is bad?
I'd say step one is to make sure the oil level reads maximum.
Step two, shut off the fuel, take the hose off at the carb, put the 
end of

the hose in a container, and turn the fuel back on. Does the gas tank
supply fuel to the carb?
Step 3, put the plug wire on a loose spark plug and hold it while 
the wife
pulls the starter rope. If you say "yeow" and drop the plug, the 
ignition

is good. I used to use #3 as a last resort in my youth when working on
motorcycles and lawn mowers, but it's a fast and effective test.
After step 3 it gets less simple to diagnose.

Mitch.

___

Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I watched the video and all the pages on their site but never saw any 
price.  Any idea?

Larry

On 01/12/2019 11:21 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Sat, 12 Jan 2019 21:10:19 -0700 G Mann via Mercedes
 wrote:


Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of float bowl,
drop bowl, with contents into can.. Inspect for water Bet that is
your problem..

Ethanol gas is hydroscopic.. it draws moisture and absorbs it .. said
moisture then condenses in to carb in droplets.

What about using http://www.mrfunnel.com/Mr._Funnel/Home.html ?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thank you Sir!  I will check that 1st and let ya'll know.  Sounds like a 
definite likelihood.  Hope that's it, then I won't have to worry about 
testing the black boxes.  Ethanol in the fuel has caused problem for me 
in small engines before, usually the needle and seat.  I wish the corn 
farmers would let that go!  I hear some in the govt are pushing for even 
higher ethanol levels in the near future.  Even more problem for gas 
engines!


LarryT

On 01/12/2019 11:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Check the carb float bowl for water.  Your post says engine speed increased
or sound changed before shutdown...

Water in fuel migrates into the float bowl... and accumulates in the
bottom, as water level increases, less and less fuel can pass through the
main jet in the center of the carb just above the fuel bowl... finally,
water level rises to the point where the main jet gets no gas, and water,
being heavier than gas, shuts off the flow of gas to fuel jet. Engine dies,
restart doesn't happen because engine is "out of gas" at the main jet...
fuel in tank can not over power water in bowl.. dead engine..

Put a can under the carb bowl, remove the bolt at center of float bowl,
drop bowl, with contents into can.. Inspect for water Bet that is your
problem..

Ethanol gas is hydroscopic.. it draws moisture and absorbs it .. said
moisture then condenses in to carb in droplets.

On Sat, Jan 12, 2019 at 6:31 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


The old way to manage the 'oil alert' shutoff was to short out the
ignition like an ignition switch does.
Some generators have a solenoid on the carb operated by the oil level
switch, usually through a control box.

If the engine note changed before shutdown, the shutdown wasn't purely
electrical. Switching off the ignition just results in the engine coasting
to a stop and quickly.
But it might involve a fuel shutoff like is found on the carburetors of my
Subaru generator and the Briggs engine on my Trail Mower. The mixture would
go lean and then the engine would cut out when it got too lean to sustain
fire.

But if it is the oil alert, is it because the oil level is low, the switch
is bad, the wiring is bad, or the 'black box' is bad?
I'd say step one is to make sure the oil level reads maximum.
Step two, shut off the fuel, take the hose off at the carb, put the end of
the hose in a container, and turn the fuel back on. Does the gas tank
supply fuel to the carb?
Step 3, put the plug wire on a loose spark plug and hold it while the wife
pulls the starter rope. If you say "yeow" and drop the plug, the ignition
is good. I used to use #3 as a last resort in my youth when working on
motorcycles and lawn mowers, but it's a fast and effective test.
After step 3 it gets less simple to diagnose.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Mitch,
That was how I proceeded so far.  Asked my wife to hold the spark plug 
wire while I pulled the started but she declined.  Probably good as if I 
had done that she's still be making my life miserable. ;-)
When the Gen stopped (in the dark and cold naturally) I topped it off 
but no good.  Yesterday I opened up the fuel shutoff and made sure the 
screen was clean which it was.  Fuel flows great!
I associated the engine note change with the engine going lean before 
shutting down but now I'm at the point of needing to test the black boxes.


Thanks for the comments,  my wife rolled it into the garage to get it 
out of the weather (it's always been stored indoors except for a couple 
of nights after it died.   I need to light my kero heater and warm it up 
out there a little before I start checking things out.


Wish I had a wiring diagram to make things easier.  I'll contact 
Troybilt to se what info they have


LarryT

On 01/12/2019 8:30 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

The old way to manage the 'oil alert' shutoff was to short out the ignition 
like an ignition switch does.
Some generators have a solenoid on the carb operated by the oil level switch, 
usually through a control box.

If the engine note changed before shutdown, the shutdown wasn't purely 
electrical. Switching off the ignition just results in the engine coasting to a 
stop and quickly.
But it might involve a fuel shutoff like is found on the carburetors of my 
Subaru generator and the Briggs engine on my Trail Mower. The mixture would go 
lean and then the engine would cut out when it got too lean to sustain fire.

But if it is the oil alert, is it because the oil level is low, the switch is 
bad, the wiring is bad, or the 'black box' is bad?
I'd say step one is to make sure the oil level reads maximum.
Step two, shut off the fuel, take the hose off at the carb, put the end of the 
hose in a container, and turn the fuel back on. Does the gas tank supply fuel 
to the carb?
Step 3, put the plug wire on a loose spark plug and hold it while the wife pulls the 
starter rope. If you say "yeow" and drop the plug, the ignition is good. I used 
to use #3 as a last resort in my youth when working on motorcycles and lawn mowers, but 
it's a fast and effective test.
After step 3 it gets less simple to diagnose.

Mitch.

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74 911  

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Re: [MBZ] Well ain't that a thing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Best wishes for a speedy recovery!  You'll be in our thoughts and prayers!
LarryT

On 01/12/2019 1:52 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

I'd spent the week in DC for a class. In the airport coming home I started to 
not feel good. Nearly home I realized I needed the ER. 9 years ago it was just 
angina, this time it's a heart attack. People got very excited.I'm in Worcester 
now with 3 new stents. Stenting is much more painful when you've had a heart 
attack, I don't advise it.
Anyhow I'm still alive, put me on the injured reserve list with Rich and Gerry.

Curt
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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[MBZ] OT Troybilt Portable Generator Question

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang,
    Had a power outage recently (Jan 1) and used our Troybilt Portable 
Generator (with a Briggs & Stratton engine) so we didn't lose the stuff 
in out freezer.  So a few hours into the outage, we were going to bed 
and could hear the generator cranking away.   An hour or 2 later, I 
heard the engine note change to a higher pitched noise, then within 10 
seconds it abruptly turned off.  Hoping it was low on fuel or the low 
oil switch had caused the engine to shutdown, we checked both, but 
unfortunately, neither was the problem.  One possibility is the Low Oil 
Level Switch may have malfunctioned.  Looking at the wiring diagram I 
see a little black box with a couple of wires.  I'd like to test that 
black box somehow (if I can find it) but I'm not sure how to do that.  
Do I test the resistance? Continuity? Something else?


    The generator only has about 6 hours on it, but we bought it in 
2012 so it's long out of Warranty.  I'm not even sure what that box 
does.  The information stuff that came with the Generator was a bit 
weak.  It came with a Owners Manual which basically told how to run it. 
Then the usual warranty info, but that's about it.


    All the electronics that has crept into our lives is great as long 
as it works.   When it stops, it's a bitch!

LarryT

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Re: [MBZ] An appropriate coffee table ...

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Some people just have too much time on their hands...
LarryT

On 01/09/2019 8:10 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

I saw this picture and thought it was appropriate for this list.


Craig

--
Present: '93 E300D/2.5 Turbo   354 kmi
  '89 Chevrolet G20 Beauville   210 kmi
  (the Big Red Van, BRV)
  '00 Kenworth W900  Helmut 943 kmi

Past: '90 E300D/2.5 Turbo   265 kmi   RIP
  '07 Peterbilt 386  Bruno  885 kmi
  '82 240D/3.0   Bluebell   286 kmi
  '95 E320   Sebastian  135 kmi   RIP
  '94 E420   Oskar  127 kmi   RIP
  '87 Dodge Grand Caravan RIP
  '86 190E/2.3
  '72 220/8
  '61 Willys Utility Wagon
  '59 Willys Utility Wagon
  '67 Volkswagen Fastback
  '64 190Dc  Emma
  '72 220D/8 Herman 186 kmi
  '69 Lotus Europa
  '64 Alfa Romeo Turrisimo Internationale
  '59 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spyder Veloce

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Re: [MBZ] Donald J Trump and liberal wackos

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

so that was a preemptive shot across the bow? ;-)

On 01/08/2019 11:00 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
And to clarify, that would be the only place where those topics should 
be discussed.


On 1/8/2019 9:59 PM, Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes wrote:
...and where all opinions are welcome, no matter how well informed or 
how ignorant!


Greg

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of 
Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes

Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2019 7:53 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Cc: Kaleb C. Striplin
Subject: [MBZ] Donald J Trump and liberal wackos

For all those folks who love to talk about the above mentioned subjects,
there is quite a lively discussion brewing up over on banned, where you
are free to discuss to your hearts content without fear of the 
pooferator.



---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com


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Re: [MBZ] "WHY" classic Mercedes are worth saving- the bleak future of driving

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

we had a 89 Civic w/o PS.  It was a great car except for that...  After 
that I bought the 91 300D and my epiphany occurred.  I've pretty much 
given up on repairing the 91 300D with the rust problem at the rear 
suspension.  But I may keep it as a spare parts source if I can find a 
nice replacement 124 300D.


LarryT

On 01/04/2019 3:01 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

I don't think I've ever seen a front wheel drive car without power steering, 
presumably early cars might have had it...
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
  
   On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 2:52 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

On January 4, 2019 at 2:28 PM Meade Dillon via Mercedes  
wrote:
Maybe a simple 240D-like
electric car with no bells or whistles will last 50 years, but I don't
think anyone is making them - no market because we are a
consume-and-throw-away society.

Last I knew, GM had the best motors and the Spark/Bolt have the simplest and 
most efficient drivetrain. Something like 96-98% of the motor's output hits the 
tires. But even the Spark has a lot of electronics in it, and not just in the 
Engine/Brake control module. The electrics have brake by wire controlled by the 
ECU, I hope with mechanical backup if you shove the pedal far enough, because 
they use regenerative braking up to 1/2G or so and only put the friction brakes 
on if you're really stopping hard. It's still slightly better to coast than to 
regen, the round trip through the battery returns about 80% of the original 
kinetic energy. But 80% is better than the 0% you get with friction brakes.

Besides the ECU, you've got the electronic power steering (I'm enough of a 
curmudgeon to wish for manual rack and pinion in a 2800lb Spark or my 2900lb 
Cruze for that matter), the infotainment system, the airbags and explosive belt 
tensioners, the anti-theft gimmicks...

It'd be fun to put the SparkEV drivetrain in a kit car or an old 2000lb car or 
even a 1500lb sand rail, but trying to make the electronics play nice in an 
alien environment might drive you crazy. I'd rather stuff the turbo 1.4L Cruze 
or 2.0L Verano in a Fiero. I bet I could make that work in a month or two. 
Hmmm, a 1988 Fiero GT with a 320 hp 2.0L that's 150lb lighter than the original 
V6...
Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT fun shooting day

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey, speak of coincidences - I traded a couple and sold a couple bought 
a  new EC9s Ruger (not sure what the dif is to the LC9s) I hope to get 
to the range if the weather cooperates.  When I lived in Summerville SC 
we were able to shoot in the backyard but I worked so much it was hard 
to find time. The Range I belong to is about 40 min away so a bit of 
advance planning is needed.  I hope to break it in soon and run 200 rds 
through it - that seems to be the magic #.

You;re right about it being a great carry gun!
LarryT

On 01/01/2019 2:37 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

Daughter unit set up a target out off the back deck so we went at it with her 
Browning.22 target pistol and my .380 M Bodyguard and Ruger LC9s 9mm. The 
Browning is a great pistol, I really like it. Very tight groups. Might have to get 
one. She got it barely used, a real good deal.

The .380 is kind of a blunt instrument with a long trigger pull (the “safety”) 
and quite small so hard to get a good grip on it. She did a little better with 
it, smaller hands. It’s kinda hard to control but possible to get a fairly 
tight group but since it is a small carry personal defense gun that is not the 
main concern. It has a built-in laser too, mostly useful as an attention getter 
I think.

The 9 can get some nice tight groups and is easy to shoot but is powerful. Fits 
my hands pretty well, so comfortable for me. I carry that one too, probably the 
better choice unless I want to have the little pea shooter a bit more concealed.

70F today so nice being on the back deck and having some father-daughter time. 
She has a .38 revolver too but we didn’t shoot that.

Happy New Year y’all!

--FT
Sent from iPhone
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[MBZ] HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL!

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

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[MBZ] It's finally time to let my 1991 300D 2.5T Go to someone New

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang,
It's a sad day that brought this decision.   When I was preparing to 
replace the Rear Wheel Bearing I noticed some rust damage where the 
front lower spring link attaches to the chassis.   I shared some photos 
with Peter, Max and a few others and the most popular phrase I'm seeing 
is 'terminal rust' which would be prohibitively expensive to repair.  
(Photos are available to anyone who wants them)


But my question at this time is this: I plan to offer it for sale here 
1st as well as placing ads at as many places as I can find. Since I 
started removing the RWB, I took the lock nut off the axle shaft.  I'm 
planning to reassemble as much of the axle parts as needed to make the 
car drivable.  I will likely leave the emerg brake parts off but the 
caliper, top hat, and a new axle nut will all go back on.  The new Axle 
Lock Nut which will be here next week.


I'm thinking a prospective buyer could actually start and drive it if 
evaluating the condition of the engine & tranny but I wonder if I am 
creating a dangerous situation where someone might get hurt if they 
don't fix it properly?  The axle & brakes will be installed properly but 
the E Brake will not be installed on the right rear wheel.


I'm kind of thinking out loud here and wonder what ya'll might think?   
I guess the alternative would be to leave the rear wheel uninstalled and 
ask the buyer to bring a trailer?


TIA -

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Truth in hospital pricing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I've had 5 major surgeries to my left knee and there's nothing worse 
than waking up and seeing a line of doctors coming by that you've never 
heard of or seen before.  Then days/weeks later you get a bill for 
"consultation".  One bill was rec'd more than 2 years after the "visit" 
but I fought it and they stopped billing me - no Sorry, no explanation, 
the bills just stopped.


It's a step in the right direction.  While everyone has different 
insurance companies, rates and coverages, there's no reason they can't 
create a matrix that will get things close so people without insurance 
or limited coverage can comparison shop.   Yes, I know everyone is 
supposed to be covered - but there's is just as many uncovered people 
after ACA as there were before ACA.


LarryT

On 12/27/2018 3:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

Seems like a great idea to me. The health car business these days is a big scam 
that ruins people’s lives. Aside from the astronomical costs, you never really 
know what you are paying for or even if you received what you are supposedly 
being billed for. You go the the doctor or the hospital and start receiving 
bills for things even before it has been sent to insurance. You are never 
really sure if it’s a bill you should pay or if insurance paid it. In many 
cases all the sudden you start getting bills from collection agencies who 
suddenly put this on your credit report and you have no idea what it even is.

Sent from my iPhone


On Dec 27, 2018, at 2:41 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
wrote:

I never liked to find out what the price is when I get the bill in the mail a 
month later, so...

https://www.abc4.com/news/hospital-prices-are-going-public/1675480321

Starting Jan. 1, every hospital nationwide will be required to post standard 
charges online for every item and every service they provide.

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