Re: [MBZ] OT: would you buy a rental car?

2007-10-17 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
not hard at all if you have the right equipment. I saw a report on 
German TV a couple of years ago where there was a thriving market for 
folks who would come to your house etc and reset the odometer to any 
reading you want ( and at the time is was not really illegal, one of 
those loopholes that was still on the books, I don't know if they've 
changed that yet ). they just come with a laptop, plug in and in a few 
minutes, the odometer reading  is whatever you want it to be. They were 
showing how most of the low mileage used cars being sold overseas out 
of Germany had been reset.
Enough to make you think twice about a late model used car out of 
Germany for sure.

As easy as it was, I have no doubt the american used car crowd caught 
onto it a long time ago.

-Robert

Allan Streib wrote:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

   
 I often wondered how many miles showed on the odometer when it went
 on the used car lot, cause they sure couldn't make much money at
 $20/day, unlimited mileage.
 

 I assume that today's digital odometers are harder to tamper with than
 the old mechanical ones?  Or can somebody with a factory computer
 program reset the numbers?

 Allan
   


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Re: [MBZ] OT: would you buy a rental car?

2007-10-16 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Enterprise is *supposed* to be real good at maintaining their vehicles, 
but I had to rent one of their compacts a couple of years ago in New 
Hampshire that only had about 10k miles on it and the thing was beat.
 At least most of the car places are better on keeping the scheduled 
maintnence up, even if they ignore some major repairs. I wouldn't buy 
anything from uhaul.Most of the independent agents don't want to have to 
fool with getting the reimbursement for oil etc and they send them out 
the door low on everything  ( and if the engine seizes up, it's the 
customers fault for not keeping the fluids up...go figure  ) I had to 
rent a truck with a v10 ford a while back that only had about 50k on it. 
the thing was over 3 qts low on oil leaving the agents yard when I 
stopped at a gas station down the street ( for some reason, they had me 
wait for 4 hours while they got the truck ready for a long trip and when 
I got there , all the fluids were low, the cab was dirty and they hadn't 
even bothered to empty the ash tray.which I can be fairly certain 
that they charged the last person for , for returning the vehicle dirty. 
I have no idea what the heck they did during that 4 hours.)

About the only thing going for a used rental car is some come with 
warranties.

-Robert

Allan Streib wrote:
 Couple of people I know have been happy with cars they bought from
 Enterprise.  I've also heard horror stories about the things people do
 to rental cars.  Any opinions?

 Allan
   


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Re: [MBZ] How much oil in A/C pump?

2007-10-04 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I sent you a PDF file that should answer your question. If the system is 
completely flushed, go by the total system capacity in the first section.

-Robert

archer wrote:
 I have a new Harrison A/C compressor from Rusty ready to go in an '83 240D. 
 A tag says oil must be added but does not say how much or in which port it 
 should be poured.

 There is no information on whether this is a Harrison R-4 (four cylinder), 
 A-6 (six cylinder), DA-6 (six cylinder), or V-5 (five cylinder) compressor. 
 According to the Haynes A/C manual, the amount of oil that should be added 
 to each type of compressor is varied.  The only ports this compressor has 
 other than the hose ports is a plug held in by a snap ring and a brass plug 
 with a green center screwed into  the back of the compressor.  If someone 
 (Rusty?) can tell me which Harrison compressor this is, I can figure out the 
 amount of oil necessary.  Six ounces seems to be the usual amount.

 I plan to flush the lines, evaporator, and condenser; and replace the dryer. 
 Haynes rule-of-thumb for adding oil to those components after flushing is:
 Condenser-one ounce
 Dryer-one ounce
 evaporator-three ounces
 Harrison A-6, R-4, or V-5  Two ounces plus the number of ounces drained from 
 the old compressor.

 Does this sound right?

 Thanks,
 Gerry Archer
 '83 300D and 240D 


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Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

2007-10-03 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I was working in a machine shop then, and everytime someone brought a 
vega engine through the door, we'd tell them right off that the head was 
most likely going to be trashed beyond repair. Every one that came in 
was either warped or cracked, most were too far gone to fix, and it was 
generally cheaper and faster for the customer to just buy a new head. 
It's funny, as many of those things I fooled with, I can't , for the 
life of me, remember what they looked like. Was that some of that 
useless GM injected molded aluminum that looked like styrofoam?

---Robert

Tom Hargrave wrote:
 I don't know the final solution but I do know that the Vega engines were
 produced at Tonawanda Engine, not far from where I lived at the time.
 Several family members worked at the factory  my Uncle's neighbor was an
 Engineer at the facility. He stated that the issue was piston skirt wear and
 that GM actually solved the problem before selling to Mercedes. I know that
 GM re-designed the pistons but I don't remember what was actually done or my
 Uncle's neighbor did not go into that much detail. Remember, this was 30
 years ago.

 By the time GM solved the wear issue, too much damage had been done to the
 brand and GM could not recover. The first MB engine produce with this
 technology was the 380, used in the late 80's  early 90's SL's. Too bad the
 early 380's had single row timing chains. At the same time, independent
 shops started rebuilding out of warranty Vega engines with pressed in iron
 sleeves. I don't believe the sleeve was a GM design but I could be wrong.

 The Vega was actually a great daily driver and the body held up better than
 anything Ford put out in the 70's. South of Buffalo NY, where I lived, is
 the absolute worse place to own a car  the 2 worse cars to own in the 70's
 were AMC and Ford (in that order). I've seen 3 year old Ford LTD's with
 holes in the fenders large enough to drop a soft ball through. A high school
 buddy's Ford wagon actually sagged in the middle on the way home from school
 one day. It was so bad that the doors would not open! The wagon was right at
 5 years old.

 GM also screwed the US diesel market with their Olds based diesel. This was
 also a good engine by 1981 but just like the Vega, too much damage had been
 done to the brand and GM could not recover. But the damage caused by GM's
 diesel screw-up was much further reaching than the Vega screw-up. They hurt
 the entire diesel car market, including Mercedes, which is why you see few
 Mercedes diesels around from the mid-80's on. No-one in this country but die
 hard diesel fans wanted a diesel from anyone by the time the air cleared
 around GM's disaster.

 I owned a 1981 Pontiac Bonniville with the Olds diesel  it was a wonderful
 car. I trashed the engine at 155,000 miles. I had replaced both radiator
 hoses  did not properly tighten the bottom radiator clamp. The hose slipped
 off about 2 weeks later  before I realized what was going on the engine was
 toast. My only complaint was that the filter would suddenly plug and when it
 did, you had very little power. Also, the filter was outrageously expensive.
 I used to keep a spare  a set of wrenches in the trunk.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924
  

 -Original Message-
 From: archer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 10:58 PM
 To: Tom Hargrave
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

 RLE points out:
 That very same Reynolds Aluminum alloy was used in the Porsche 944, 968 and

 928 not to mention Mercedes V-8s and the M112 V-6 in my C320.  And the 
 blocks last nearly forever unless neglected by the owner.

 What was the piston skirt solution used in those engines; pistons made of 
 the same high silicon alloy?
 Gerry

 -
   
 From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 The issue with the Vega was that the piston skirts would not hold up
 against the much harder exposed silicone. The skirts would wear to the
 point where the pistons would actually rock in the bores and when bad
 enough, would score the cylinder walls. Some were bored out and had iron
 sleeves pressed in. The softer iron was much easier on the piston
 skirts. This turned out to be an expensive lesson on mismatched
 materials.
 Thanks, Tom
 256-656-1924

 -Original Message-
 From: archer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: 9/28/07 9:28 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Aluminum

 
 On 9/28/07, archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: GM built a small
   
 car;
 
 I
 forget its name; which had aluminum blocks/heads made of high silicon
 aluminum IIRC. The high silicon aluminum cylinder walls were supposed
   
 to
 
 wear well
 but they didn't.
   
 Wasn't that the Vega?
   
 The Vega's design fault was inadequate cooling, certainly not the
 Reynolds
 alloy the block was cast in. That very same Reynolds Aluminum alloy was
 used
 in the Porsche 944, 968 and 928 not to 

Re: [MBZ] 220D, syncro van, fox ads

2007-09-22 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
The audi wasn't worth that much new. Those things were a wiring problem 
waiting to happen, at least all the dead and dying ones that crossed my 
path not long after they were new.

Too bad the syncro isn't a diesel.

-Robert

Mitch Haley wrote:
 Misc 70's-80's German Michigan/Indiana/Ohio Autotrader ads:

 220D, two drivetrains, new paint, looks like no drivetrain installed $1000
 http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=CM2320085

 VW Syncro van, engine built, surface rust touched up and primered, needs
 exhaust $3000
 http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=CM2320274

 Audi Fox, low miles, no rust, stored inside. I haven't seen one of these
 in roadworthy shape for about 20 years. $3500, can't be worth that much.
 http://www.auto-rv.com/browse.aspx?AdName=CMW2320120

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Re: [MBZ] 300D 2.5 Exhaust

2007-09-20 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I don't know about ceramic in there, but given what a pain it would be 
to try and weld that thin old flex, and that it wouldn't likely last 
more than a week, I broke down and bought the new pipe section when 
faced with that problem.

---Robert

John Robbins wrote:
 John Robbins wrote:
   
 The car has developed an exhaust leak

 

 Lets try again (somehow managed to mash a keyboard shortcut)


 The car has developed an exhaust leak on the flex pipe...  Since I don't 
 have a welder, and don't want to replace the whole thing took it to a 
 shop to get it replaced.  They gave me some line about it having ceramic 
 mixed in it, and that it would cost $400 to replace.  Looking at Rusty's 
 site it is a little over $100 for the whole 'header pipe' (turbo to 
 center muffler)...  so is there really ceramic stuff mixed in?  Seems to 
 me like I just got fed a line of bull

 John


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5kW Chinese Genset

2007-09-15 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If that's one of those chinese diesels, one of those little red levers 
is most likely a compression release . You hold that down while first 
cranking and it allows the engine to spin a little faster, then you let 
off as it starts to catch ( at least it works that way on some of them )

-Robert

im Cathey wrote:
 First I checked the oil.  It had some.  Next I checked the battery, it
 was dead and drew no charging current.  I went and got a car battery
 and a set of jumper cables and hooked it up.  The key then worked, but
 the engine only turned over a few times before it 'stalled'.  I pulled
 the end cover off the housing and spun the motor back so the starter
 could get a 'run' at it, then it turned over again.  It cranked a lot
 but no fire.  There wasn't much fuel in the tank.  I poured in the 2
 gallons I had in a can and cranked again.  (Sometimes I had to roll
 the motor backwards again.)  Eventually it started firing
 intermittently, and with more cranking and running attempts it finally
 got up 'on plane' and ran.  Not all that noisy, even with the covers
 off.

 Once it had run a few times it started easily with the key.  I'm sure
 being warm helped, as did getting all the air purged from the fuel
 system.  The set takes a long time to spin down when turned off.
 There's a spring-loaded red lever behind the access hatch that applies
 throttle.  If you hit the release lever it drops to, or below, idle
 and stops.  There is also a red lever on top that I don't know the
 purpose of.  It can only be accessed with the box's end cover taken
 off.

 There is no voltage output, either AC or DC.  I checked the wiring and
 such inside the cabinet, and there were no obvious faults or burned
 items.  The regulator is potted, so that's not very handy.  There is
 an exposed power diode bridge, but it checks out OK.  There are no
 specs or schematics that I can find, I'm not sure where to look next.
 There's an odd heat-sinked box separate from the regulator that hooks
 to a pair of green wires that come out of the flywheel area.  It has
 an inline fuse hooked to it, which I checked.  Also good.  There are a
 lot of wires.

 It's a mystery.  Perhaps I've just purchased a one-lunged diesel motor
 for $400?  Still not a bad deal!

 When I took the big battery off I found that the little one was now
 taking a charge.  We'll see if it recovers enough to be usable.  It,
 not fully charged, wasn't (yet) able to fight the engine's compression
 enough to turn over.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-13 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
There's a few factories in China making those generators like the NT one 
, then different retailers just get them painted different colours and 
have their sticker popped on. If you dig around on ebay, there's a 
seller who has them for $800 with the remote and automatic transfer 
switch to make it come on when the power fails, and his shipping costs 
are pretty close to what NT charges ( at least to here ))

I snoozed on one of those Chanfa china diesel generators like on the 
hardy site. I missed a used one on Craigslist in Memphis for $300  and 
it went on ebay for about $600
Those things appear to be well built, but they are seriously heavy.

I'm trying to find an affordable quiet diesel generator for  dual 
purpose , hauling around with the 5th wheel for camping, and around the 
house, but I have to find one light enough to be able to manuver up to a 
rack over the cab ( or build an A frame to winch it on and off , trying 
to avoid that)

-Robert

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 On 9/13/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 This seems like a deal and may be just what some of you have been looking
 for.  Page 11 shows item # 168100-1801 at $1299.  Peak load is 6500  watts 
 and
 it comes with electric start and a battery.  Shipping weight is  377 pounds 
 so
 proximity to Northern is probably a plus, though it does say  factory
 shipping.  Punch it up at _www.northerntool.com_ 
 (http://www.northerntool.com)
 

 That's the lowest price by far I've seen on a Chinese diesel generator
 package of that wattage.  Wonder how that compares to the Original
 China Diesel sold by a number of vendors online for $2500 or so (e.g.
 http://www.hardydiesel.com/gen/8kw.html).  I'd like to buy a generator
 in the 6-8kw range for backup power at my new house (and fabricating
 one from a surplus 240D or VW engine, while appealing, is beyond my
 skills or time available right now).

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] my $78 pawn shop kirby throws fire but keeps on vacuuming

2007-09-13 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick


Kirbys aren't a ripoff, they are a pretty impressive machine. And unlike 
most other brands, you can still get parts for any of them, no matter 
how old.
We've got one from the 50's that I've had forever, still runs great, but 
I didn't like having to dump the cloth bag with my allergies, and i 
found a newer G3 at the state resale ( where all the state agencies take 
their old unwanted or broken stuff to sell to the public ) and I found 
one with a stuck step switch from one of the nearby colleges , for $25. 
Only thing wrong with it was someone had stomped the pedal too hard and 
knocked it off the pins ( the state could have got it fixed for free, 
the Kirby dealer doesn't charge for repairs unless parts are involved ).
It's nice because the super duper allergy bags for the new ones , fit 
the old ones, and those things are easily repaired, and parts easy to 
find. There's big janitorial supply that has parts and doesn't mark them 
up like the dealers do.

As far as service, My wife, who has the talent of being able to break 
anything ( she figures we were made for each other , she can break 
anything and I can fix anything :-) managed to somehow break the drive 
axle on the thing. When I went to get a new one, the parts place said 
they'd never seen one break, and when they called the factory to order 
one, found out that  nobody else had managed to break one on one of 
those models either, and they didn't have any, but they said they would. 
It took about 3 weeks, but they tooled up and made a new one ( and it 
was like the new style ones, slightly improved design , looks like they 
just had to make a few custom modifications to it )  and no extra cost.
When I got back from the vacuum shop, I stopped by the Hallmark shop and 
got my wife a card of congratulations  for  succeeding where all others 
have failed :-)

I'll have to agree on the stairs though, with a three story house, 
vacuuming operations on different floors are planned out ahead of time.

---Robert

Gary Hurst wrote:
 my mother is coming to visit, so i figure it's time to bust out old kirby
 and go over the carpet a bit.  kirby has always been loud, but tonight he
 simply screams bloody murder.  i smell a little burning smell.  and then i
 see some spark and flame inside the motor housing.  but as it keeps sucking
 up dirt, i keep vacuuming.  i do this for another minute or so and then
 realize that what i am doing is insane.

 now i've heard here that kirby's are really not that good and they are a
 pure ripoff, etc.  i've heard it all before,  but i'm still impressed.

 guess i'll need to take it apart this weekend to see what has gone awry.
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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-13 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Yes, 6500 is overkill for the 5th wheel. 4000 would be plenty, but for 
the house I want to have enough to run the deep freeze an the blowers on 
the furnace and a few other necessities, so I figure I ought to get 
something a bit stouter than 4k. Either that or have to get two 
different ones, which may end up being the easier way to go, but the 
little diesels are about the same as the 6500 jobs, and my truck is 
diesel, so if I get a cheap gas generator, I'd have to haul another fuel.

-Robert


Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 On 9/13/07, Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Those things appear to be well built, but they are seriously heavy.

 I'm trying to find an affordable quiet diesel generator for  dual
 purpose , hauling around with the 5th wheel for camping, and around the
 house, but I have to find one light enough to be able to manuver up to a
 rack over the cab ( or build an A frame to winch it on and off , trying
 to avoid that)
 

 If I get one of the Chinese ones or something similar, it is just
 going to sit on a pad out back, so weight is not a concern for me.  Of
 course it is for your purposes.  But isn't 6500KW overkill for a 5th
 wheel, even a big one?

 Alex


   


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 5600 Watt Diesel Generator in Northern Catalog

2007-09-13 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
$380 is a steal. Grab that thing.
I bet its in the wrong part of the country for me to swoop in and snag 
it :-)

-Robert

Jim Cathey wrote:
 That's the lowest price by far I've seen on a Chinese diesel generator
 package of that wattage.
 

 The local liquidator has a 6kW unit for $380.  The wheels are off
 and the battery is out, obviously it's not in perfect condition.
 I'm still thinking about picking it up.  Dratted thing is 3600
 RPM which is not what I would normally want.

 That or yank the motor out and put it on the log splitter.
 I hate sucking gas fumes while I work.  Best would be if I
 could plumb the pump off the end of the generator shaft!

 -- Jim


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[MBZ] MB diesel hybrid

2007-09-12 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Article in AutoWeek online, says MB is going to have a diesel electric 
hybrid out is 2010
You have to sign in for the article

http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070911/FREE/70911001/1024/FREE

Or :-)
Mercedes-Benz plans to roll out a wide range of diesel- and 
hybrid-powertrain models over the next three years to cut fuel 
consumption and CO2 emissions, and plans to put a B-class wagon powered 
by a fuel cell into production in 2010.

Mercedes-Benz plans to have Bluetec diesel-hybrid models in its lineup, 
beginning in 2010, as it seeks to produce and sell the world’s cleanest 
sedans 
http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070911/FREE/70911001/1024/FREE#.

The German automaker laid out its “Road to the Future” today at the IAA 
in Frankfurt.

*Among its plans:*

# A diesel engine for the United States in 2008 that will meet emissions 
regulations in all 50 states. The engine will be offered in the R-class 
wagon, and ML- and GL-class SUVs.

# A hybrid version of the ML-class SUV in 2009. The powertrain mates at 
4.6-liter V-6 engine with the Two Mode rear-drive hybrid system that 
DaimlerChrysler 
http://www.autoweek.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070911/FREE/70911001/1024/FREE#
 
has developed in conjunction with BMW and General Motors.

# A hybrid version of the S-class sedan will also be introduced in 2009. 
This S 400 hybrid will mate a V-6 gasoline engine with an integrated 
starter-generator. The starter-generator provides stop-start function, 
and can power the car on only electricity for short distances. It also 
adds an electric boost to the gasoline engine under heavy loads.

# Mercedes says the hybrid powertrain is rated at 299 hp, can accelerate 
the large sedan from 0 to 100 kph (62 mph) in 7.3 seconds, yet burns 
only 7.9 liters of fuel per 100 kilometers (20.9 miles per gallon).

# A fuel cell version of the B-class small wagon will go into limited 
production in 2010. Mercedes said the car will be powered by a new 
generation of its fuel cell stack that is smaller, yet puts out more power.

# Versions of the E-class and S-class sedans powered by Bluetec diesel 
hybrid powertrains are due in 2010. The powertrains will include a 
four-cylinder diesel engine and seven-speed automatic transmission. The 
E-class hybrid will burn 5.1 liters (1.3 gallons) of fuel per 100 
kilometers, or about 47.6 miles per gallon.

# A version of the C class with the Bluetec diesel hybrid is due after 
2010, Mercedes said.


This article was last updated on: 09/11/07, 06:58 et


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Re: [MBZ] Replacing Injectors (was Re: 1985 300SD NastyEngineVibration)

2007-09-12 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
The snap on trucks usually carry the metric flare nut crows foot 
wrenches too.if you can chase them down. Granted, they get about $22 
each for them.

---Robert

George Larribeau wrote:
 Can I get them off the IP with a flair nut wrench, or am I gonna need to het 
 the fancy Hazzet of set crow foot tool ?

 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas


 - Original Message - 
 From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, September 12, 2007 5:54 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Replacing Injectors (was Re: 1985 300SD 
 NastyEngineVibration)


   
 I would not disturb the line clamps, I'd take all five off the IP, then
 off the injectors, and move the assembly out of the way.

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Re: [MBZ] Replacing Injectors (crowfoot wrenches)

2007-09-12 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Those HF flare nut wrenches are great...so long as the nuts were so 
loose to begin with that you could have got them off with an open end. 
If they're good and tight, the things will spread out and maul the line 
nuts to where getting them off turns into a major project.
I'll cheap out on a lot of things, but not flare nut wrenches. The good 
ones will pay for themselves in saved time and aggravation . I learned 
that lesson the hard way.

-Robert

Mitch Haley wrote:
 John Robbins wrote:
   

 I think I paid $7.99 for a set of metric flare nut crowfeet at Harbor Freight.
 A snaller set is $5.99 on the net now.
 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93138
 Wrench sizes: 10 mm, 12 mm, 13 mm, 14 mm, 15 mm, 17 mm, 19 mm  

 Open end in the same 7 sizes is $8.99 regular price:
 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94427


 My set isn't on sale right now, $14.99 for the full set of ten flare 
 wrenches including 11mm, 16mm, and 18mm. 
 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47928

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Re: [MBZ] Tool Cart

2007-09-12 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
 Those things are sweet! Napa had one on display a few months back , and 
for a few bucks less than that  if I remember , but I just looked online 
and they're up to $389 now 
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470LineCode=BKPartNumber=8156264Description=Tool+Cart
that is one nice setup, even better in person than the picture. All very 
usable. I've been trying to scrounge up enough duckets to get one around 
all the other projects ( and I've already got a full size Craftsman roll 
away and a couple of tool carts, but I need something like that to cut 
down on the footwork for the most often used tools, the roll away is 
filled to the brim with specialty tools )

That would be perfect for what you need to do. A full cabinet would be 
essentially worthless, they're too heavy to move far to begin with . 
Load one down with tools and you wouldn't be able to get it in and out 
of the house  The wheels on those things are only meant to maneuver a 
few feet here and there on smooth concrete and to roll it out to the 
truck to bring them home when you quit ( those real big tool boxes, the 
only way to move them when loaded is to call out a  roll off flat bed 
tow truck and have the things winched on . Tow truck drivers get a lot 
of calls for that on Fridays when mechanics quit and on Mondays when 
they start new jobs :-)

---Robert

John Robbins wrote:
 What do you guys think of this tool cart?

 http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/SUN-8013ABLDLX.html

 Anybody have any other recommendations?  Does the brand typically make 
 POS stuff? etc..

 I need something that I can store in my house (neatly in a corner 
 somewhere) and then be able to roll it out to my driveway.  Right now I 
 end up with tools all over the house because I'll leave them near the 
 front door when I have to stop working, but I haven't finished the 
 project yet.  I don't want to spend more than $400 or so.

 Thanks!
 John


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Re: [MBZ] Worth much?

2007-09-12 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Could be just low on fluid, or a dirty valve body, cable way too 
tightor the tranny could be toast.
Nice looking car. If you want it, bid assuming it needs a tranny at 
minimum, along with all the other usual ebay seller unmentioned items, 
present company excluded.

-Robert

Curt Raymond wrote:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-Mercedes-Benz-300-Series-TURBO-DIESEL-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ290158742592QQihZ019QQcategoryZ6330QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 Says the trans won't shift to go over 20mph... Otherwise its in stellar shape 
 for a New England car.
 Wonder if it could be something stupid and simple...

 -Curt


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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Nasty Engine Vibration

2007-09-11 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
There are a number of homemade ones out there, made from grease guns and 
bottle jacks , but all of the designs I've seen use iron plumbing parts, 
and if you've ever checked the pressure rating on those things, it's 
only a few hundred psi at best, and I certainly wouldn't want any body 
parts in range of one of those in operation. If going that route, choose 
materials carefully.

The injector is calibrated by disassembling the injector body and 
replacing shims of different thickness on the nozzle. I've never 
bothered to go that route, the testers aren't all that expensive, but 
finding a supply of shims is another story. my local Bosch injection 
shop doesn't charge me anything to test them either, so it just hasn't 
been worth it to invest in the extra equipment.

---Robert

R A Bennell wrote:
 How difficult is it to do this yourself? I seem to recall an article about a 
 home made tester with a gauge made out
 of a grease gun etc. How is the injector calibrated?

 Randy

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marshall Booth
 Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2007 2:39 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Nasty Engine Vibration


 John Robbins wrote:
   
 George Larribeau wrote:
 
 Rusty lists injectors and  injector nozzles separately. Is the injector
 complete with nozzle? Can these just be installed or do they need to be set
 up ??
   
 The injectors listed on Rusty's site come complete with nozzle, etc.
 All you need to do is remove the old injectors, replace heatshields, and
 install new injectors.  :)

 The nozzles are available separately for people who rebuild the
 injectors themselves.
 

 New or rebuilt Bosch injectors are warranted to be within 10 bar
 pressure of one another. They need to be matched to within 5 bar for the
 engine to run smoothly. So, whether you rebuild or replace your
 injectors, they need to be calibrated! Some shops are equipped to do
 this, but many are not.

 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Nasty Engine Vibration

2007-09-11 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Providing that you either don't get some really nasty fuel through them, 
or have some unexpected thing like excessive oil  burning rear it's head 
, or you don't just get an urge to fiddle with them, you shouldn't need 
to fool with your fresh injectors for a good 100K + miles

--Robert


George Larribeau wrote:
 PS: How often is this fooled with ?? I know I have seen examples of injector 
 testers made out of hydraulic jack pumps. .. was not initially interested at 
 getting this invested in the process..


   


   


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Re: [MBZ] Second chance ebay offers

2007-09-09 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If you get a second chance offer, contact the original seller through 
ebay and find out if it's legit. Most of the time it's scammers that go 
behind hot auctions like vultures and hit everyone on the bidder list., 
if it really is from the seller, you're good to go.

-Robert

Hendrik wrote:
 I am trying to buy a mobile phone off ebay at the moment, I kinda like 
 those Sony Ericsson W series ones but don't want to pay the sticker price.
 Anyway I am getting quite a few second chance offers like this one:
  
 I'm the seller of the item #170087302378 that you've recently bided 
 through the eBay system. I contact you because I wan't to know if you 
 are still interested to buy it. Please email me asap with your answer 
 because I must to know if is necesarly to find another buyer or if you 
 can buy the item . If you can't accept my offer,please let me know how 
 much you can offer me before I will relist the item. I will wait for 
 your email.
  
 Thanks!
  
 Obviously the are as fake as $20 Rolexes but I am wondering whether I 
 should bother reporting them to ebay, they probably get 1000's of these 
 every day.
 I got caught once with a second chance offer when I was a newbie on ebay 
 and that one was very elaborate with the all the works and jerks but 
 these are just pathetic.
 Also I do not reply to them because I might end up on a spam list.
 Lastly, why don't ebay alert their members that this sort of thing goes 
 on? I suppose if you dig around in the fine print you'll find stuff but 
 I dare say a lot of newbies might get caught.

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Re: [MBZ] i really don't get how brick and mortar shops can survive today

2007-09-09 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
 We buy just about everything but fuel and groceries online, It saves a 
minor fortune.
Building material have remained the last bastion of protected 
territorial marketing , but it looks like that's finally cutting loose 
as well. It's about time.
I have no sympathy for the local business owners crying about how 
they're loosing business to the internet. If   ( at least around here ) 
they weren't trying to retire off of each sale, and being jerks about it 
to boot, they wouldn't be loosing business.

I can't wait until some enterprising lumber wholesaler goes internet and 
starts offering direct ship lumber without the extra 2-3 middle men.

--Robert

Peter T. Arnold wrote:
 On Fri, 7 Sep 2007 22:07:19 -0400, you wrote:

   
 i've been stopping at every hardware/home/discounter store i pass for the
 last week looking for burgundy rustoleum.  my leg kills me every time i get
 back in the car.  it's 90 degrees outside.  no one seems to have it.

 i look online . my order is placed in 5 minutes.  they are paying the
 freight.  i'll have it within a week.

 how can your local hardware store compete with this?
 ___
 
 Last year we remolded the Home interior.  Took the kitchen out to the
 studs!  Spent the value of a Buick.
 New high end cabinets from Home Depot, best to pay them to worry about
 layout 

 $5,000 of appliances and stuff bought online, savings after shipping
 was about 25%
 Pergo style flooring for living room bought online, savings was
 about 50%

 My wife is a shopaholic, she like to get the last dime off the table.

 Buying on line has been very good for us!

 --

 Regards,

 Peter T. Arnold

 2007 HHR, 2.4L/Auto, LT2, 12Kmi, No problems!
 1987 300SDL  280KMI  Inherited by Grandson
 1995 F-250 PowerChoke  199Kmi
 1954 Metropolitan Convertible, Hanger Queen
 Wife has a Cruizer, 80 Kmi, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!

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Re: [MBZ] Hood Pads

2007-09-07 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
The heat shield isn't for keeping the sun out, it's for keeping the heat 
under the hood and the paint on your hood.
It would be worth a few extra bucks for a little extra protection in the 
long run.

--Robert

LarryT wrote:
 Howdy -
 I need a hood pad for the '78 240D and noticed Rusty sells one with, and 
 one without a heatshield.

 Living in Va I'm not sure I need the heatshield.  While I don't mind 
 extra protection, if the heatshield is only needed when traversing Africa in 
 high summer, it might be a waste to put it on mine.  But, if it will make 
 the AC work easier I'll go for it -

 Comments?

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 .


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Re: [MBZ] was Coil packs now ford parts

2007-09-07 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
http://www.tascavolvoparts.com/
http://www.fordpartsonline.com/
https://www.1stfordparts.com/
All basically the same parts list, sometimes one or the other will not 
have something listed or prices can be different

Depending on what vehicle you're needing parts for , I have a few more.

---Robert

R A Bennell wrote:

 While we are off on this Ford line, does anyone have experience with a good 
 place to buy genuine Ford  parts online
 at a good price? I'm doing it with Toyota parts and assume there is likely 
 somewhere that would do the same with
 other brands. The local dealer is not about to cut his profit on parts and I 
 do like original equipment for many
 purposes.

 Randy

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Re: [MBZ] Looking for audio guy

2007-09-07 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I run a recording studio on the side...or at least I did before the fuel 
and utility prices went nuts. Now all the broke musicians are REALLY 
broke and business is slim at best. We specialize in recording all 
acoustic stuff so I know very little about noisy distortion effects or 
any of that midi and loop stuff ( and don't care to ), just seriously 
clean realistic recording here.
What are you needing to find out?

Robert

archer wrote:
 Question:
 Are there any audio engineers or technicians on this group?
 Gerry Archer
 '83 300D and 240D

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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I think you should sell the thing to me for $50 :-)
Seriously though, how long ago was the hose fixed before? Where exactly 
is it leaking now? the middle of the hose, at the crimp fittings? When 
the  hose assembly was  rebuilt before, did they cut off the crimp 
collars and put the new hose on, or did they cut the metal and weld new 
ends on?  What test method was used to determine that the hose  was the 
culprit,  sniffer,  UV dye ?

Robert

David Johnson wrote:
 The AC manifold hose in my 83 300 DT is leaking.  It was rebuilt once before, 
 so my trusted indy recommended a replacement if I want to fix it.  The total 
 bill will be in the neighborhood of $800-900, with parts from Rusty.  
   I don't know if I should proceed this route or cut my emotional tie and 
 sell the car.  I've owned this baby for 3 years and have put many hours of 
 labor (and a fair amount of money) into it. From stem to stern, the new items 
 that I have put in include the following: radiator, radiator hoses, oil 
 cooler, thermostat, fuel injectors, manual fuel hand pump,  transmission 
 lines to cooler, alternator, brake lines, shocks, front crank seal, all door 
 vacuum valves as well as in the trunk and by the fuel door, front seat 
 cushions, tires, front windshield, headlights, and climate control panel.  
 When replacing the door vacuum valves, I also Dyna-mat all the doors. Put in 
 new speakers front and rear. New CD player. And of course, Mobil1 throughout. 
   The car runs great and has been very reliable, with 230K.  The only thing 
 that does not work is the trip odometer which failed about 2 months ago. 
   The AC manifold hose repair is beyond my capability, so I will really need 
 to shell out for this job.  At this point the wife is asking how much more 
 money we will need to spend on the car and I really can't answer her.  I hate 
 to say to her that this is really the last big-ticket item, and then the next 
 day something else comes up.  If I decide to sell, how much should I ask for, 
 recongizing that it's worth a lot more to me than the potential buyer.
   Any words of wisdom from the list will be appreciated.
   David
   83 300 DT
   230K 


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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Nowadays everyone puts so much emphasis on airbags, that they seem to 
have forgot that airbags are, by definition , a supplemental restraint. 
Their primary reason for being is that so many people forget to or just 
don't use seatbelts, that the insurance companies figured that mandatory 
supplemental restraints would cut their cash output ( and maybe save a 
few lives in the process ). It's not that airbags are better than 
seatbelts ( if they were, race cars would be chock full of air bags and 
no seatbelts ), but rather that airbags are better than no seatbelts.
Add to that some of the new micro cars that instead of building stout 
enough cars,use air bags upon airbags  to cushion the impact of the 
tinfoil body parts as they attempt to mingle with your entrails.

Personally, I'll take a nice old well built car with a seatbelt.

Robert

Hendrik wrote:
 Talking about safety
 http://ozbenz.net/viewtopic.php?p=26686#26686
 Lucky so and so.
 However the point is that the miracle air bag will not save your life if 
 you are squashed in a can or the car is torn to pieces.
 Those safety tests are done at relatively slow speed and act as a guide 
 that car A is safer than car B, however in a real world smash those 
 safety ratings mean nothing as the bulkhead crushes you to death because 
 the manufacturer builds to a price and not a standard developed since 
 the 1950's (was Honda even making cars back then?).
 My advice is for you to show her that picture of the CLK (?) just about 
 opened right up and ask her how she thinks a air-bagged Honda would have 
 faired, my guess that it would have been torn in two and exposing the 
 occupant to extreme danger.
 The 124 is one of the safest chassis in it's time and was voted the 
 worlds best car. It could be argued that it still is the worlds best, if 
 you take running costs into account.
 But if you want a Japanese car, then buy a Japanese car.

 David Johnson wrote:
   
 Loren,
   I agree.  Mathematically, you're right.  The Car Talk guys are also in 
 this camp.
   One other thing that the wife brought up was how safe is the car compared 
 to the new ones with airbags, and all the likes. 
   David

 Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   If you bought a new car, what would the total of car payments, 
 increased cost of insurance and so forth be? Compare that to the 
 total you have spent for a similar period of time for the Benz. I 

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Re: [MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If it's a slow leak that goes down maybe a cans worth a year, you really 
might want to do the test bit so you can buy a few cans and charge it 
yourself.
That whole book hours thing is a great money maker . Yes the whole 
process would take about three hours, but 2 1/2 of those are spent 
letting the machine suck it out , letting the vacuum pump evacuate it 
and letting the engine run while the new freon gets sucked down. All of 
these things basically take care of themselves while the guy is fixing 
something else. Gotta love the flat rate manual if you're on the 
billing end :-) and the r12 isn't cheap.

If cash is an issue and occasional recharges aren't  the way you want to 
go, , you might just want to get the  system sucked down, then replace 
the parts yourself, get the hose some new rubber, pop the 134 fittings 
on, get it sucked down or rent a vacuum pump for about $18 and recharge 
it yourself with r134a.

--Robert

David Johnson wrote:
 Robert,
 Thanks for your advice.
 I'll check with the local shop.  What kills me is the labotr to 
 evacuate the R12 and to put the new hose on is listed as 3 hours by 
 the book, plus 3 lbs of the R12.
 It's a slow leak, with drops of dye-colored fluid coming out right 
 where the crimp fitting is.
 David


 */Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED]/* wrote:

 If it's just leaking around the crimp, there's no reason that you
 couldn't get a new piece of rubber put on your assembly for $20-40 .
 About the only time that you can't is if the metal part is pitted
 ( not
 likely with the car being in that climate all it's life ) or if the
 previous repair involved welding new metal ends on ( it would be
 noticeable ), if not, with the assembly off, you could send the
 hose out
 for new rubber instead of a $300 new assembly. If you were closer,
 I'd
 say bring it by and I'll put a new chunk of rubber on it, but the
 shipping both ways would probably be more than taking it to a
 local hose
 shop and I'd be willing to bet there are a number of shops there that
 will fix that hose. If you look in the yellow pages under hoses, you
 should be able to find a hydraulic hose shop that also does AC hose.

 If having a shop do it all, they should be willing to send the
 hose out,
 there;'s nothing wrong with old assemblies with new rubber.
 If it's all leaked out already, you could yank the hose yourself and
 take it to a hose shop, then pop it back on along with a new drier ,
 and then take it in to get vacuumed and recharged for a heck of a lot
 less than $800.

 This is assuming that the leak is that fast. How long did it take to
 leak out and is it still R12 or has it been switched to R134a. If
 it's a
 very slow leak and it's still r12, you can go to
 http://www.epatest.com/
 and take the test ( it's an open book test online, if you've got any
 smarts at all, you can pass it ) and you can then buy individual
 cans of
 R12 and top it off. If it's R134a and a slow leak, that ones a no
 brainer, you can get that at the local parts store and top it off.

 If you sell it and buy a new car, you'll be begging for the days that
 you were only faced with an $800 repair bill. My Mother bought a new
 Toyota Camry that's still under warranty, and every time it goes
 in for
 scheduled service, it comes out with a bill for between $500-1500 for
 non covered items, and this is all on top of car payments. Newer cars
 rarely make it out of a shop for under a grand these days. We have a
 habit of getting rather spoiled with our old European cars and
 whining
 about what are basically cheap repairs by modern car standards.

 I've got one lady with a '90 volvo who is facing about a $800 bill
 for a
 window regulator , timing belts and idlers, water pump and a few
 other
 regular maintenance items. He husband wants her to sell the thing and
 buy a new car because it's going to cost so much. Over the last 5
 years
 she's averaged ( including the ones needed) about $600 a year
 upkeep to
 own that car ( that includes a seriously overpriced repair done by
 someone else before she found me ) She'll spend more than that on 2
 months payments and the difference in her insurance premium for a new
 car over that time if she goes that route, and that's before new car
 maintenance expense so they'll be in for a rude awakening .

 Something to think about.

 --Robert

 David Johnson wrote:
  Robert,
  I don't know how long ago and how the hose was rebuilt.This was
 done
  by the previous ownber.
  The leak is at the bottom, where the crimp fitting is. I saw
 drops of
  fluid coming out, and it was confirmed with UV light. The labor for
  this thing is 3 hours, plus the cost of the evacuation, and
 filling up

[MBZ] Fix or Sell?

2007-09-06 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If it's just leaking around the crimp, there's no reason that you 
couldn't get a new piece of rubber put on your assembly for $20-40 . 
About the only time that you can't is if the metal part is pitted ( not 
likely with the car being in that climate all it's life ) or if the 
previous repair involved welding new metal ends on ( it would be 
noticeable ), if not, with the assembly off, you could send the hose out 
for new rubber instead of a $300 new assembly. If you were closer, I'd 
say bring it by and I'll put a new chunk of rubber on it, but the 
shipping both ways would probably be more than taking it to a local hose 
shop and I'd be willing to bet there are a number of shops there that 
will fix that hose. If you look in the yellow pages under hoses, you 
should be able to find a hydraulic hose shop that  also does AC hose.

If having a shop do it all, they should be willing to send the hose out, 
there;'s nothing wrong with old assemblies with new rubber.
If it's all leaked out already, you could yank the hose yourself and 
take it to a hose shop, then pop it back on along with  a new drier , 
and then take it in to get vacuumed and recharged for a heck of a lot 
less than $800.

This is assuming that the leak is that fast. How long did it take to 
leak out and is it still R12 or has it been switched to R134a. If it's a 
very slow leak and it's still r12, you can go to http://www.epatest.com/ 
and take the test ( it's an open book test online, if you've got any 
smarts at all, you can pass it ) and you can then buy individual cans of 
R12 and top it off. If it's R134a  and a slow leak, that ones a no 
brainer, you can get that at the local parts store and top it off.

If you sell it and buy a new car, you'll be begging for the days that 
you were only faced with an $800 repair bill. My Mother bought a new 
Toyota Camry that's still under warranty, and every time it goes in for 
scheduled service, it comes out with a bill for between $500-1500 for 
non covered items, and this is all on top of car payments. Newer cars 
rarely make it out of a shop for under a grand these days. We have a 
habit of getting rather spoiled with our old European cars and whining 
about what are basically cheap repairs by modern car standards.

I've got one lady with a '90 volvo who is facing about a $800 bill for a 
window regulator , timing belts and idlers, water pump and a few other   
regular maintenance items. He husband wants her to sell the thing and 
buy a new car because it's going to cost so much. Over the last 5 years 
she's averaged ( including the ones needed) about $600 a year upkeep to 
own that car ( that includes a seriously overpriced repair done by 
someone else before she found me ) She'll spend more than that on 2 
months payments and the difference in her insurance premium for a new 
car over that time if she goes that route, and that's before new car 
maintenance expense so they'll be in for a rude awakening .

Something to think about.

--Robert

David Johnson wrote:
 Robert,
 I don't know how long ago and how the hose was rebuilt.This was done 
 by the previous ownber.
 The leak is at the bottom, where the crimp fitting is. I saw drops of 
 fluid coming out, and it was confirmed with UV light. The labor for 
 this thing is 3 hours, plus the cost of the evacuation, and filling up 
 with 3 lbs of refrigerant.
 David

 */Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED]/* wrote:

 I think you should sell the thing to me for $50 :-)
 Seriously though, how long ago was the hose fixed before? Where
 exactly
 is it leaking now? the middle of the hose, at the crimp fittings?
 When
 
 Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user 
 panel 
 http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=48516/*http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7%20
  
 and lay it on us. 

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Re: [MBZ] Decent 6.9 in Atlanta (now GTO)

2007-09-05 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
It aint braggin if ya done it! There are those who sit around and read 
specs, then there are those of us who dig in and do it. As I said, 2.1:1 
rear, huge carb , fancy ignition and a nice cam, all set up for high 
RPM. I was working in an  engine shop at the time and we did a lot of 
high speed engines ( got lots of practice on boat engines for rich 
idiots, they would come in and spend 4-5 grand on a custom engine for a 
speed boat, then take it out to the lake, do a powerslide in front of a 
bunch of girls to impress them, and then the wake would wash over the 
back of the hull and straight into the velocity stack intake and blow 
them sky high.. by tuesday, they'd have another  bare block in the shop 
for another 4-5 grand treatment, then they'd go out and do it 
again...must be nice to have more money then brains ). I had also 
learned when to trust the factory engineers, and they did a heck of a 
job on those things.It really took very little.

It's not hard to make cars go really fast, you just have to make them 
wind out, but you do sacrifice quick takeoffs. I had a '67 El Camino I 
was playing with at one time that I really rigged to scream with a 350 
small block ( with nothing stock in it  but the crank)and a th 350 
behind it ( along with fitting the front seats, dash and center console 
out of a '72 Chevelle in it dyed black and white , It looked pretty cool 
too :-), the thing would do 120mph in second gear. I have no idea how 
fast that thing could go in third, I never got around to working the 
suspension out to handle more than 150 before moving on to another 
project.  Had two different carbs for it, the high speed holley wasn't 
very streetable, so I had a smaller AFB for it and mounted the carb with 
aircraft push pin quick disconnects  so I could swap carbs in about a 
minute to run the thing.The guy who bought it promptly wrapped it around 
a tree first day out.

The  old 'merican stuff  was usually way overbuilt and could be made to 
do much more with very little effort. Ah for the days before  computer 
designing.

Drag and weight  only slow you down if you haven't got enough power.

Its a good thing I grew out of all that. Now I drive around in a bunch 
of old diesels.Go figure.

--Robert

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You must be kidding, even with 360hp the 68 GTO could never go that fast. It 
 was a pretty quick car, but technically you take into consideration wind 
 drag, weight and actual gearing of the car and you have a brick on wheels. 


 Harry
 69 280 SEL 
 72 350SL ?
 04 VW Passat 4 Motion
 1999 Mazda Miata ? 




 Rusty Cullens
 BuyMBparts, Inc.
 Tel 1-800-741-5252
 Fax   770-454-9745

 - Original Message - 
 From: Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 8:27 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Decent 6.9 in Atlanta


   
 Not a bad looking car, but that silly little story  included from the
 star is pure fiction. Anyone who's ever owned a '68 GTO ( present
 company included ) knows that 120 is just a nice mild cruising speed,
 those beasts don't even start breathing hard till around 180...that's
 when it's time to use the last third of the gas pedal travel. We used to
 have a lot of fun with that car out on a dry lake. 220mph+ is an
 interesting feeling :-)
 If they passed a GTO at 120 it's because the guy in the goat didn't
 care, not because the 6.9 is some super car.
 I wonder why he included that little snippet in his ad? I guess it
 didn't help him sell the thing.

 -Robert

 
  




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Re: [MBZ] Diesels in Nascar

2007-09-03 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Not sure about the current rules, but used to be nascar had to be 
'merican stock body shape, and engine had to remotely resemble a block 
available in production for said body style. Under that, a diesel would 
have to be available as  a production run ( not option ) for the car.
However under the new rules, I don't think anyone has any idea what the 
actual manufacturer qualifications are, but the new cars, are all 
seriously castrated. When the cars started getting too light for the 
speeds a few years back, they started  cutting them back, now the new 
ones have brought mediocrity to new levels. Modern nascar races are 
about as exciting as watching grass grow, of course, with enough cheap 
'merican beer in your gut, I guess it's alright :-)

As far as being 'merican, Toyota has wormed their way around that one 
for the Nascar truck series  since they assemble them here ( not that 
they care about nascar, but they want the TV camera focused on their big 
stickers  being drilled into the eyes of potential truck buyers with 
guts stuffed with aforementioned cheap beer )
Last I heard, they didn't get off to a very good start while at the 
first race, getting busted for cheating and being the recipient of one 
of, if not the largest , fine in nascar history.

---Robert

LarryT wrote:
 Howdy -
 Now that Audi has shown total domination for several years now using a 
 V10 TDI Diesel to win LeMans and other endurance races with a purpose to 
 raise awareness of the diesel technology now available.  They were said to 
 desire to make countries - especially the US - aware of the diesels ability 
 to offer dramatic fuel mileage with performance equal to or better than 
 their gas counterparts.  Now that the background is out of the way (Whew!) 
 here;s my question.

 Since the US population is infinitely more aware of the goings on in 
 Nascar, has anyone heard if Audi or others plan to compete in Nascar with a 
 diesel?  That would really seem to be a better way to reach a large number 
 of Americans than endurance racing.  Don't know what's legal/illegal to run 
 in N'car but perhaps the V10 Audi has used so far would work in Nascar?

 Or perhaps the rules are written to prevent someone from running a 
 diesel?

 I would think GM or Ford could really gain some ground on the competition if 
 they could market a strong diesel to the public that would offer better 
 performance than some of the hybrids being marketed.

 Anyone know?
 Just curious -

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 .


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[MBZ] Serious parts sale

2007-09-02 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
The folks at http://www.ufixitautoparts.com/  are having a couple of 
serious clearance sales going on. They're having a parts by the pound 
sale with all the parts in that catagory selling for a buck a 
pound...the catch, no application references, so you either have to know 
what you're looking for or do a lot of net searches to see if they fit.
I just scored a few hundred bucks worth of AC fitings and hoses to stock 
the shop up along with a bunch of other neat goodies. Some foreign, some 
domestic.
I did see a couple of the old style frigidair compressors that fit some 
of the earlier models going for around $30.
If you click something you really need, checkout fast, 4 of the things I 
wanted had already sold by the time i got to checkout

For items not in the by the pound sale , there's a 25% off with reference

code 89  you have to check those out seperately.
I have no connection with them, but i have bought a bunch from hem before, 
mostly store closeouts new old stock

Robert




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Re: [MBZ] this looks like it might be a hell of a deal

2007-09-02 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Aw come on, you know that every used benz being sold with non working AC 
only needs a recharge...you aren't supposed to pay any attention to 
those silly locked up compressors or giant gaping holes in condensers 
and the like :-)

-Robert

Hendrik wrote:
 Basically if you can't turn the compressor by hand it is stuffed. If the 
 compressor idler bearing is seized you should still be able to turn the 
 compressor but a seized compressor is a great bargaining tool and not 
 that expensive to fix with a S/H one.
 A lot of people looking to buy a car will be turned off straightaway if 
 the A/C is not working and this leaves the DIYers with cheap cars.

 andrew strasfogel wrote:
   
 Oh the evil that men do when trying to sell a used Mercedes...

 On 8/31/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 
 I once purchased a 1976 300D that was missing its AC pulley belt.
 After
 purchasing the car, I had the belt installed but it immediately broke
 because the rotary AC compressor was seized!
   
 
 If the belt is missing, that's the first thing I assume!

 -- Jim

 
   
   
 

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Re: [MBZ] Decent 6.9 in Atlanta

2007-09-01 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Not a bad looking car, but that silly little story  included from the 
star is pure fiction. Anyone who's ever owned a '68 GTO ( present 
company included ) knows that 120 is just a nice mild cruising speed, 
those beasts don't even start breathing hard till around 180...that's 
when it's time to use the last third of the gas pedal travel. We used to 
have a lot of fun with that car out on a dry lake. 220mph+ is an 
interesting feeling :-)
If they passed a GTO at 120 it's because the guy in the goat didn't 
care, not because the 6.9 is some super car.
I wonder why he included that little snippet in his ad? I guess it 
didn't help him sell the thing.

-Robert

John Robbins wrote:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=300145019267

 Its already ended, but I bet you could get in touch with him and make an 
 off eBay offer if you're nearby.

 If it was about 2 hours closer I would be on my way to look at it.

 John

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Re: [MBZ] Decent 6.9 in Atlanta

2007-09-01 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Try 2.21:1 rear end. That's what mine had. A bunch came out of the 
factory that way. A waste of time to run a 1/4 mile with them, but they 
were made to open up and run.  Most came with lower rears, but not much 
.I never saw a stock goat that couldn't do 160 no problem Most came out 
of the factory geared to run, people who wanted street racers generally 
switched them to lower sets later, although there was  almost endless 
options for the things.

-Robert

Mitch Haley wrote:
 Robert  Tara Ludwick wrote:
   
 Not a bad looking car, but that silly little story  included from the
 star is pure fiction. Anyone who's ever owned a '68 GTO ( present
 company included ) knows that 120 is just a nice mild cruising speed,
 those beasts don't even start breathing hard till around 180.
 

 How many rpms is that with a 4:10 axle (or even a 3.73) and 1:1 top
 gear? 
 If tires are 30, that's a little less than 22mph per 1000 rpm at
 4.10:1. At 3.21:1 it would be nearly 28mph, or about 139 mph at
 5000rpm. I don't think I ever saw a muscle car with a 3.21 final drive.
 These cars had the power to go 120-140, but not always the gearing.
 A friend of mine had a race prepped 442 that would do 12 sec 1/4 mi.
 I don't think that car ever saw over 125 mph, even when he put a
 4sp in it and drove it on the road. 
 The Road Runner Superbird and Charger Daytona race cars had CD
 in the 0.28 range, and could do about 200 flat, but I'd be 
 surprised if the homologation versions did over much over 160.
 Your typical supercar (GTO, 'Cuda, etc) was probably closer to
 0.5 CD, and that took a lot off the top speed potential. 
 Mitch.


   


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Re: [MBZ] Ultra low sulfur diesel and old Injector Pumps

2007-08-30 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Did her AC start blowing not as cold at the same time?
AC blow off valves cutting loose at stop lights on real hot days is 
pretty common., Wind up with an unknown cloud either billowing out from 
under the hood or out the back if the engine fan is kicked in .

---Robert


archer wrote:
 After a very short drive my daughter was sitting at a traffic light in her 
 GL320cdi SUV when she noticed a big white cloud of something that looked 
 like it may have come out of her exhaust.  There was no other car close by 
 that could have produced it.  The car has just had it's first major service 
 since she bought it.  She says she may have gotten a tankful of less than 
 the ultra low sulphur fuel.  She hasn't seen any more white clouds behind 
 the SUV since then.  Does anyone have an idea what could have caused such a 
 cloud?  The only thing I could think of would be a headgasket letting water 
 into a cylinder.  The dealer is 60 miles away, so driving it there could be 
 risky if there is something seriously wrong.
 Thanks,
 Gerry

 - Original Message - 
 From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   
 The lubricating qualities of the sulfur in diesel fuel are in the
 sulfur containing organic molecules.  There is no free sulfur dissolved
 in diesel fuel, it's all part of some carbon containing molecule (there
 are many).  It's removed by breaking up those molecules and
 precipitating out the molecular sulfur.

 Those sulfur containing molecules provide most of the lubricating
 qualities of diesel fuel, and are in fact quite good high pressure
 lubricants (much better than the paraffins or linear hydrocarbons,
 which make up 90+ % of the bulk diesel).  Taking them out greatly
 reduces the lubricating nature of the fuel.

 Peter
 


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Re: [MBZ] Bimby / injector bypass hoses

2007-08-28 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Are you running any  biodiesel or WVO?

---Robert

Wonko the Sane wrote:
 Bought a length of injector bypass hoses from Rusty a while back -- maybe a
 year ago.

 Have replaced factory hose on both of my diesels (VW  Benz).

 EVERY LINE HAS LEAKED and has had to be replaced. I am getting at the most
 six months out of a section before it cracks and leaks.

 The frustrating part here is that neither car was leaking before the
 replacement -- I was doing preventative maintenance.

 Now, this isn't Rusty-bashing. It is more of a question. Rusty certainly
 doesn't manufacture the hose.

 The hoses are cracking at the nipple. Am I doing something wrong in the
 install?  I just put the hose ends on and shut the hood. Is there a special
 nipple grease or something that I am not using? Maybe a bad run of hose at
 the factory?

   


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Re: [MBZ] Bimby / injector bypass hoses

2007-08-28 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Then you might want to get the viton hose 
http://www.greaseworks.org/index.php?module=pncommercefunc=categoryviewCategoryID=11
 B2 will take a lot longer to wear hoses out than b100, but it still has 
the same effect over time.

-Robert

Wonko the Sane wrote:
 Depending on where I buy fuel, either straight dino or B2 (2% biodiesel).

 On 8/28/07, Robert  Tara Ludwick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Are you running any  biodiesel or WVO?

 ---Robert

 


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Re: [MBZ] I think wonko the insane liberal should buy this

2007-08-28 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
It would have been nice to see a picture of the fancy bedroom described  
, or maybe the cockpit , instead of him mugging for the camera.

Let's see..9'8 wide, he fails to mention that you'd need to buy an 
oversize permit  every time you put it on the street, in some places 
you'd have to hire an escort car or two.

Robert

Robert Rentfro wrote:
 Bob the Limo King is rockin' some serious bling.
 Gotta love all those extra photos having nothing to do with the
 plane/limo/bus/car/thing.

 Bob R.

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
 Sent: Monday, August 27, 2007 5:43 PM
 To: Banned List; mercedes Mailing List
 Subject: [MBZ] I think wonko the insane liberal should buy this

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Boeing-727-Jet-Limo-Built-on-a-Mercedes-Bus-s
 eats-50_W0QQitemZ130147708496QQihZ003QQcategoryZ6728QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1Q
 QcmdZViewItem


   


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Re: [MBZ] What happened to the VW rabit diesels from the 1980's

2007-08-27 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Here in the US most suffered from poor maintnence. Selling  an economy 
car with a diesel engine  to the downscale market leads to infrequent 
oil changes coolant changes etc. Add to that the ones that have broken 
down in middle 'merica over the years and due to the lack of knowledge 
of diesels ( and overall fear of anything European) by most mechanics 
here, that have ended up oxidizing away behind a service station.
If they've been taken care of properly, they tend to last a very long time

I had a rabbit diesel years ago, loved the thing, but ended up junking 
it  due to inability to find parts at the time ( pre internet days, and 
pre mc parts days ) and what parts could be found were insanely 
expensive here, only game in town was a severely overpriced Napa 
franchise owned by  a guy with a big fancy house on the hilland he 
liked to make those house paymentstry $80 each for glow plugs 

I've got a volvo diesel, same engine just a couple more cylinders, great 
engine...if taken care of, otherwise about 150k miles and they fold. 
Amazingly in Europe where they know how to take care of the things, 
there are tons of them running around , many as taxis an ambulances that 
go for hundreds of thousands of miles without problems.

---Robert

Peter Merle wrote:
 Here in South Africa we also had a lot of diesel rabits from the 80's
 that seem to have disappeared in the 1990's . I was wondering what
 happened to them. Do many still exist in the US. We still BTW have lots
 of Merc diesels from the 80's here.

 PEter

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Re: [MBZ] Ultra low sulfur diesel. Trouble for old injector pumps?

2007-08-26 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
 Howes lubricator is some great stuff for pumps ( and it does a nice job 
of cleaning ), but the lubrication isn't the big problem,  With changing 
the fuels, older pumps ( all kinds ) are sprouting seal leaks, it's not 
that the new stuff will eat up new pump seals, its just that old seal 
material is used to the old formula and changing  to the new stuff 
results in leaks. Once the leaks are fixed, the new seals *should* last 
as long  as they would on the old stuff.

If you have the engine out already, and if you have the tools to time 
the thing, might be a good idea to pop the pump off and replace the 
shaft seal and the orings on the side plates.

Robert

Robert Bigham wrote:
 Hello all.

 I suspect this has been discussed before, but I don't 
 know.

 Does anyone know if the current ultra low sulfur diesel 
 has any bad effect on old Bosch injection pumps. like 
 on a 1981 VW Rabbit?  

 Yes, I have one of those.  Its a curious, loud, shaky 
 little car, but fun in its own way.  Gets 40+ mpg with badly
  worn piston rings, low compression and burning oil at 
 150 mi/qt.

 If there is a bad effect on th IP, is there anything I can 
 do about it?  I'l start back driving the VW sometime in 
 October if my plans work out.  I need to put my good 
 diesel engine it in in place of the worn one with a blown 
 head gasket and low compression otherwise.

 Thanks 

 Robert

 1983 230E (123) Grey market Benz 144K miles. OK right now.
 1981 VW Rabbit diesel 204K miles.  Dead.  Blown head gasket.
 1976 Ford F 150 460 engine 400K+ miles on chassis.  Dead.  Hole in timing 
 cover leaks water.

 Robert Bigham
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 EarthLink Revolves Around You.
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Re: [MBZ] Gasket paper WAS Motorcycle success

2007-08-24 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Most parts places have it near the gasket sealer. Comes in little rolls.

---Robert

John Robbins wrote:
 Jim Cathey wrote:
   
 Yeah, gasket paper.  Cheap and effective.  Just takes a bit of
 time.  Like 10 minutes!
 

 Where do you guys find this stuff?  None of the local McParts have it...

 John


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Wheaton Van Lines

2007-08-24 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
You have to check to see if your homeowners/renters insurance covers 
your stuff in a move, then file with them and let them duke it out with 
the carrier.
---Robert

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 We had insurance and they still only reimbursed us $.45 per pound,
 regardless of the items' value.  The industry is pathologically
 under-regulated.

 On 8/24/07, Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Glenn,
 I hate to say it, but we have had trouble with almost every moving company
 over the years-we never used Wheaton, but Grabel was the worst-on a move
 from Ithaca to Nashville, they lost my antique 1950 Dodge half ton pickup
 for 6 weeks. It turned up in a fenced lot in NJ (no joke) Mayflower was
 not
 much better-that depended on who the local affiliate sent to unload you-we
 got 3 guys, two of whom were drunk and stoned.  Packing was not much
 better
 for some of them. And Grabel was slow to settle claim of damage to new
 floor
 from refrigerator being dragged across it.
 Anyway, the best movers were my friends and I 30 years ago with a U-Haul
 and
 a couple cases of Yuengling Beer.
 Hope you are getting settled in W. NC-I visit Hendersonville several times
 a
 year to see family. Do check out Euro spec for an Indy specializing in MB.
 My 'new' 240D (1978) is being serviced there before its ride North next
 month.
 Dwight

 Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
 1979 240D-250K + miles
 1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
 Wickford, RI
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Glenn Brown
 Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 10:56 AM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] OT: Wheaton Van Lines

 For anyone considering a move, from a recent bad experience with Wheaton
 Van
 Lines - DON'T, DON'T, DON'T!  The word needs to spread.

 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC
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Re: [MBZ] OT: Wheaton Van Lines

2007-08-24 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
One thing most people don't know is that its real rare for your stuff to 
go on to a moving van and be delivered by same van on the other end, at 
least not without some shuffling in between. One truck will generally 
make a handful of pickups in an area, then go to a storage facility, 
where it's offloaded, shufled, bent spindled and mutilated, and  
combined with other housholds on a truck going in the direction of your 
move, usually 2 or more households per van, sometimes three or four., 
Then sometimes along the way your stuff will be offloaded at another 
storage facility or two to get it aimed in the right direction. All in 
all, it gets handled a lot before it gets to your new abode, and if you 
think it gets handled rough while you're watching...

I drove for a company that did household moves years ago, but I only did 
a few, I hauled mostly electronics, but it's a real strange game.

There are a few small operators who will handle your stuff personally, 
point to point that have very good reputations.

Unfortunately, the help for loading etc generally comes from a temp 
agency and you get the bottom of the barrell.

those Pods and ABF setups where they drop a container or a trailer and 
you can hire your own folks to load unload and they pick it up and take 
it to the new place, are another half decent option. My sister and her 
family recently did the pod move, it wasn't bad, they had the container 
for a week or so to load at their leisure, then about the same on the 
other end to unload it, with an option to rent the thing longer if they 
needed more time . Nice thing with this option is you can hire folks to 
do the heavy work, usually you can find some stout college kids who want 
to make some money , your homeowners insurance etc should have a 
provision to cover people you hire to work around your house if you have 
a blanket policy ( stay away from the football players, a bunch of big 
wimps who run out of steam after a very short time and whine like 
babies, used to amaze me how an old worn out truck driver who hasn't 
slept ( me ) could handle more freight than 3 young football players, I 
ran into that situation more times than I can count , and I've never 
been the picture of health)

Big problem is for company moves, they usually have a contract with 
specific carrier so you're stuck with whoever they're paying for.

-Robert

Glenn Brown wrote:
 For anyone considering a move, from a recent bad experience with Wheaton Van
 Lines - DON'T, DON'T, DON'T!  The word needs to spread.

 G. M. Brown
 Brevard, NC
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Re: [MBZ] PODS (was Re: OT: Wheaton Van Lines)

2007-08-24 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Figure the fuel on that uhaul at closer to 4-5 mpg.
When I had to rent a uhaul and a car trailer to get from Buffalo NY to 
Little Rock AR a few years ago it cost me 2 grand for the equipment and  
a minor fortune for the gas ( and that was before the gas prices went 
nuts ) and all I was hauling was the car, the box was empty , car pooped 
out, engine folded on the turnpike and had to get  it home. That was for 
what was basically a one day run.

--Robert

LWB250 wrote:
 A 17' U-Haul is only $1446 in comparison, although
 that does not include the cost of fuel and motels. 
 Figuring 300 gallons of fuel at 10/mpg and 3000 miles,
 you're still under $1000 for fuel alone.

 Granted, there is something to be said about having
 someone else do the driving, but...

 Dan



 --- LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   
 Just went to their Web site and ran a quote.  For a
 16' container shipped from Tampa to Reno they wanted
 roughly $5100.

 Ouch.  Then again, I have no idea what moving rates
 are these days, either.  Nothing was mentioned about
 weight in the quote, either.  I think I'll run a
 quote
 for a 16' U-Haul to see what it compares to.

 I like the idea of ditching everything before you
 move.  The minimalist thing appeals to me.

 Dan

 



   
 
 Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect.  Join Yahoo!'s user panel 
 and lay it on us. http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 


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Re: [MBZ] 603 ALDA tweaking and fuel economy

2007-08-23 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Correct, new ones are not matched and the spec allows for some error, 
but if you want the thing to run extra smooth at idle, you can take them 
in and have them matched ( some call it balanced, same thing ) to a much 
closer figure.

Robert

Curt Raymond wrote:
 I was under he impression new ones were not matched by default...
 Could mismatched injectors lead to lowered economy or would better matched 
 injectors give better economy?

 -Curt

 Date: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 14:12:07 -0500
 From: Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 ALDA tweaking and fuel economy
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
  reply-type=original

 Bought them from Rusty, whatever he sells.

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 PP Supervisor

 - Original Message - 
 From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 1:39 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 603 ALDA tweaking and fuel economy


   
 On 8/23/07, Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 On my SDL I seem to be getting about 22 or so, I would think i
   
  should get
   
 more than that.  I have what I think is too much black smoke and
   
  that is
   
 after new injectors.  I dont think the alda has ever been adjusted
   
  on 
   
 mine.

   
 NEW new injectors or rebuilt oldies?

 Don't the new ones have a bad rep (no longer made in Germany)?

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] A/C Question

2007-08-22 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Only problem with that is you need closer to 30 to get any moisture out 
of the system.

---Robert

Trampas wrote:
 A proper running car will pull to about 19 at idle which on the hot days of
 summer around here it is pretty good. 

 Trampas

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
 Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2007 3:19 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] A/C Question

 Engine vacuum only pulls down to like half atmospheric (13-14 maybe), 
 not really enough to do any good in an AC system.

 --R

 Trampas wrote:
   
 I changed one on my 300SD and it was relatively easy, on the 420SEL there
 was an extra brace and it took half the day. If I had to do it again I
 
 would
   
 remove the dash pad first. 

 Also to vacuum out the system I have used a vacuum line from the engine.
 That is start engine connect AC gauge to intake manifold through vacuum
 
 line
   
 and let engine run (assuming gas engine). However I now have a cheap
 
 vacuum
   
 pump powered from air compressor that I got from harbor freight for under
 $20.  

 Trampas


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
 Sent: Tuesday, August 21, 2007 11:49 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] A/C Question

   
 
 Depends on which car. The expansion valve on the 124 is between the
 firewall behind and inboard of the brake booster. On the 126 I expect
 it's still behind and above the brake pedal (and an absolute BEAST to
 work on).
 
   
 For the 126 lie on your back with your head next to the gas
 pedal.  Look up.  You can see it.  Just.  I have no idea how
 one would actually get a wrench on it, much less two of them
 to crack the fittings loose.  BEAST is an understatement.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Post Falls SL musings

2007-08-21 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
They make driveshaft de-coupler kits for toads, along with brake 
actuators for the cars brakes. Dig around the RV sites and you'll find 
them.. For the driveshaft, you'd wind up with an extra lever in the car 
to disconnect the driveshaft , then you don't have to worry about the 
tranny.

---Robert

Jim Cathey wrote:
 So I was thinking, How can I keep this car without getting
 killed?  We just got back from a week's coastal vacation, and
 one of the things we talked about was how nice it would have
 been to have a toad over there.  A convertible would have been
 particularly nice.  Our truck is more than capable of handling
 a toad in addition to hauling the camper, if the car's brakes
 can be utilized.

 However that's not something you'd ordinarily do to a nice car,
 but a cheap SL isn't so much that you'd worry about it.  And an
 SL is as small as you'd want to go for a practical toad for a
 family of three, plus some crap.  It would also be highly unusual,
 which is good for me.

 There are difficulties, largely that the car has an automatic
 transmission.  Though vintage MB's can be towed, it's not fast
 or far, the rear pump is apparently not up to the task of keeping
 things lubricated.  I am very much against having to take a
 wrench to the flex disks in order to rig for towing.  My wife
 would not be amused.  It would really have to be simple to attach
 and detach, mechanics' work and/or trailers/dollies are right out.

 Two ideas: 1) Replace the transmission with a manual.  Not easy,
 the parts probably don't even all exist.  2) Hook up an auxiliary
 electric hydraulic pump.  It oughtn't need much flow.
 This would keep the guts of the transmission lubricated during
 the long haul.   I'm assuming that something could be plumbed in
 at the cooler lines, and/or the test gauge ports.  (An
 auxiliary electric vacuum pump would also take care of running
 the brake booster for when a brake servosystem was fitted.)

 Any thoughts?

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels

2007-08-20 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Aero Kroil is your friend www.kanolabs.com
Soak the glow plugs down overnight with that stuff, a couple of days if 
really stuck.
Definitely use antisieze  compound on the new ones. I personally like 
the stuff that Liqui Moly makes, the copper base. GPs come right out of 
aluminum or iron heads without a fuss.

-Robert

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 Is the same true about glow plugs?  I wanted to install new ones this
 weekend  (1983 300TD) but they were in so tight I was afraid of doing
 serious damage in case they were frozen in place.  Is it possible these
 are the original GPs?  I haven't changed them since purchaseing the vehicle
 in 1989!  I also discovered a split CV boot.  What's the best way to deal
 with that?



 On 8/20/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Yep, a little salt  water goes a long way - the parts actually bond
 together.

 Tom
 www.kegkits.com

 Original Message
 From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: 08/20/07 01:43 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] ; Mercedes Discussion List
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anti sieze on aluminum wheels
 -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
 Robert Bigham wrote:
 
 I never before heard of a wheel so tight it took driving with
 loose lugs to get it loose fro the hub.  Wow.
   
 Happens routinely in the rust belt!

 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] severe crack

2007-08-20 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
And a zero feedback seller to boot.
 I wonder if the owner of that house knows that there was a cheesy used 
car salesman taking pictures in his yard..

---Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-S-Class-1987-Mercedes-Benz-300-SDL_W0QQitemZ330157868810QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6336QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
   


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Re: [MBZ] Sacriledge, break out the pitchforks

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Not quite as tacky as the old Rolls Royce looking front end on the 
Beatle trick, but tacky none the less .

-Robert

Hendrik wrote:
 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=290151352486ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:AU:1
 This person should be sued for a number of reasons but unfortunately bad 
 taste is not possible. I wonder how Daimler feel about this?
 Although I do have secret fantasies about putting a Toyota front on my 
 Mercs :-[

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Re: [MBZ] subject change: Iowa's a nice place to live

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I know what you mean about the cloud cover. I lived across the river 
from Portland in the hills outside of Vancouver for a few years. I was 
traveling for work, and every time I was heading home with plans, 
everything was soggy and gray . It got old pretty quick
I'll never forget my well adapted native neighbor, standing in his 
driveway in shorts with the barbecue fired upwith freezing rain 
coming down. When I looked at him, he just smiled and said  It's the 
first day of spring 

---Robert

LWB250 wrote:
 Oy gevalt!  You can't imagine the idiots, although
 many of them are from out of state...

 Haven't lived in Iowa, but did some work in Des Moines
 and northern Iowa (for Winnebago in Mason City.) 
 Washington and Oregon are nice in the summer, but I'm
 not sure i could put up with the cloud cover from
 October to April.  I did a lot of work in Portland and
 Seattle, and in the summer when the weather was clear
 they were truly beautiful places to be.  I liked
 Portland the best.  In the winter - yuck!

 I would love to live in San Luis Obispo.  That,
 outside of the Sierra foothills around Auburn, CA, is
 one of the most beautiful places in the Lower 48 that
 isn't a national park.  I was there a number of times
 to do some hush-hush work on OTHB radar sites in the
 mountains above Atascadero.  From some of the sites
 you could see well out into the Pacific in one
 direction, and in the other, all the way to the
 Sierras.

 sigh

 Dan


 --- archer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   
 Example of idiots?  Florida in general has often
 been called a human jungle. 
 Iowa and Washington/Oregon are my favorite states as
 well as central coastal 
 California.
 Gerry
 




 
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel Air Filter service life.

2007-08-19 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Just beat it on something, or blow it out with air.
If you want to get fancy, just pull into one of the few zillion offroad 
specialty places in Phoenix  and they shouldn't have any trouble fitting 
your filter with a washable pre filter.

--Robert

Marshall Field wrote:
 I am going broke buying air filters for my three 300d's.  The Kalifornia
 version air filter at almost 50 bux a pop really hurts.  What I am looking
 for are some ways and wisdom to get some more service life out of the air
 filters.

 Yes, all the usual stuff has been looked at and brought up to spec.  The
 seals, the hoses and pipes, everything.  All are tight.  Silica on the oil
 analysis is in the cellar so I know the system is tight.  And I particularly
 dislike any air filter with the K and N name on it.,

 I live in Phoenix, drive mostly on roads and freeways.  Problem is that I
 can get hardly 2500 miles out of a air filter.  Usually less, much less
 miles.  My criteria is holding the filter up to bright sunlight.  If I can
 not see daylight through the folds in the filter, then to me it is plugged
 and needs replacing.

 I remember years ago seeing some domestic Purolator filters that had a
 washable sock over the main paper air filter.  But I have never seen such a
 set up for a MB.  I am sure that something can be rigged, but that would
 entail a smaller diameter, non standard air filter for the housing

 So, any ideas or help is greatly appreciated.

 Marshall in Phoenix
 Three (3) 300D's
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Re: [MBZ] Quantity of AC oil in condenser?

2007-08-15 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I don't know on the 124 specifically, but as a general rule, about 1 oz 
for a condensor.
If your email inbox can stand it, I'll email you a pdf file of a 
refrigerant lubricant chart.

Robert

Zeitgeist wrote:
 I just got my new condenser (see the jeer at the idiot thread) and it seems
 I've misplaced my 124 service manual.  Can someone tell me how much oil I
 need to add to the system when RRing the condenser?

 btw:  the new condensers have tabs which allow for a much easier mounting of
 aftermarket fans.

 TIA

   


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Award for inconvenient design...

2007-08-15 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick

30 psi is a bit on the low side What is the ambient temp outside , 
preferably readings in the shade and the sun ( the shade is the one 
you'll find on all the weather sites )

---Robert
Allan Streib wrote:
 ...goes to the Ford Focus, and the decision to locate the AC low side
 service port in the passenger-side fender, UNDER the wheel well liner.
 So you have to remove (at least partially) the wheel well liner to
 charge the AC.  I couldn't even find it until I went on-line and
 looked up its location.

 I found my refrigerant can tap valve, and hooked up my cheapo gauge to
 the port.  Pressure was about 20 PSI, and the compressor was
 short-cycling.

 Added roughly half a can (6 oz) of R134a and the compressor stopped
 cycling, ran more quietly, and the pressure went up to about 30 PSI.
 Vent temps dropped from 60 to 40 degrees (F).

 Since the total capacity of the system was listed at 26oz and it acted
 happy with that amount, I did not add any more.  I've heard it's
 better to be a little too low than too high.

 Allan
   


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Re: [MBZ] NYC- was- Mann Oil Filters Coming Apart

2007-08-14 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
My wife, who runs a restaurant, and I love to watch Rachel Ray with the 
30 minute meals...and count how many times she cross contaminates her 
utensils /cutting boards/hands etc between raw meat and veggies etc that 
are going to be served raw or lightly heated. If anyone actually ate the 
stuff she put together on that show, they'd be spending an incredible 
amount of time in the toilet :-)

Robert

andrew strasfogel wrote:
 There was a hilarious send-up of Rachel Ray's cheap eats (featuring
 bargain-priced restaurants) on Mad TV, showing her to be a ditsy lush.  In
 the skit she visited a restaurant early in the day on the pretext of
 reviewing the food but in reality to do some serious drinking.  She yakked
 continuously for the camera, toying with her appetizer while ordering one
 cocktail after another until she was completely blottoed.  I almost died
 laughing.

 On 8/14/07, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 On 8/14/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 This week I'll be teaching the folks at the Rachel Ray show how to
   
 maintain their
 
 video storage system.
 I like this class, its mostly administration and troubleshooting and
   
 production houses
 
 can rarely spare more than 1 or 2 people at a time so it makes for short
   
 days.

 I don't suppose you get to meet Rachel herself?  Yummo!

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo

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[MBZ] Attn Kaleb AC adapter

2007-08-13 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Hey Kaleb, I found the box from Napa that my AC fitting adapter for the 
vacuum pump to hook to the yellow hose, came in. The part number is 
409551 non napa part #
on their website 
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=430OEMPartNum=409551

Looks Like I got off cheap, they get $9.40 for it now

---Robert

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Re: [MBZ] Radiator brands: Who can give advice?

2007-08-13 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I've installed lots of Nissens radiators in a  variety of different 
vehicles. Great quality and fit. For every application so far, their 
radiators have had more rows of tubes and more fins than the stock 
radiator ( some as much as 30% more capacity )

---Robert

Robert Bigham wrote:
 Hello all

 I need to pick your brains about radiators.  

 My perfect Behr round tube radiator 123 501 56 01 was destroyed by the 
 consequences of the acts of an idiot posing as a mechanic, but that's not 
 really important.  Replacing the destroyed radiator is much more important.


 Car is 1983 Model 123.223 230E Grey Market car.  Four cylinder 2.3 liter,
 100 KW output.  Automatic transmission.   

 I shopped Rusty, and put in a quotation request a week ago, and haven't 
 heard anything except that the quote will be ready before long.  I think I 
 know what that means, unfortunately.  Not available.  I'm used to that.  
 Grey market and all that.

 I'm looking for a used radiator like the one that was destroyed, and I'm 
 looking for a new one. 

 I looked out in the big world, and find Behr, Nissens, noname, and Valeo 
 radiators that might be a suitable fitment. Width dimension is pretty 
 important. Not too wide - will interfere with air cleaner. Not too narrow 
 - fan shroud will gap at sides and not force airflow through core. Just
 right 
 is 518 mm, wide,  i.e, standard width. Height is standard 123 chassis 
 radiator height.

 I am shy of noname radiators.  Maybe I shouldn't be.  

 Somewhere I read a rant against Behr radiators of the 1980-85 period.  Hose 
 nozzles break off or something like that.  Flimsy.  My old Behr radiator
 was 
 perfect and worked perfectly.  There couldn't have been a lot fundamentally 
 wrong with it.  But it is history now. 

 I never heard of Valeo radiators except vaguely and I think associated
 somehow 
 with Volkswagens. I never heard of Nissens radiators at all until now.

 There are many things I have never heard of. 

 I never imagined having to roust out a radiator, although I bought a used
 one 
 (which turns out to be wrong - too wide) on ebay, just in case I might need
 it 
 sometime..  It's an excellent Behr radiator except it ain't the right one. 
 Too wide.
 Interferes with air cleaner snout.

 I'd like to hear anything anyone might care to share, and any advice anyone
 may have. 
 I'm sure there's a radiator guru or expert out there somewhere.

 Thank all of you.

 Robert, in a liquid to air heat exchanger mode. 
 .  




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Re: [MBZ] $8500 POS

2007-08-12 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I'd say the decimal two places to the left  estimate is probably 
accurate. There may be that much in metal, but in a recent conversation 
with a boneyard owner, it was costing him a combined $20 an hour in 
labour  to tear the things apart , so if your time is worth anything and 
it would take a single person a lot longer than the 3 guys eviscerating 
one at the boneyard with all of their available implements of 
destruction..

--Robert

Mitch Haley wrote:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   
 Holy cats. A 140, 200K miles   AND it's been wet. Move the decimal point two
 places left.
 

 Not quite that far. A 140 is HEAVY. Gotta be at least $300 for scrap metal. 
 If you can sell the doors, trunk lid, fenders and hood for $100 each, and if
 the seats are nice enough to sell for $250, the car's easily worth $850.
 Engine and tranny might even be worth something IF the fluids were changed
 before it was started.
 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Virtual Pillory: Come jeer at the idiot!

2007-08-11 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
That definitely falls under adding insult to injury :-)
Where's the rotten fruit???

Robert

Rich Thomas wrote:
 dumbshitedly

 I think that word needs another t in it, and a U before it!

 --R



 Zeitgeist wrote:
   
 Hi, my name is Casey, and I'm an idiot.

 Here's great fun for the whole family...

 So, last week I was whining about my mal-performing AC, and 
 assumed that my compressor was failing--WRONG!  Turns out that Mr Cathey was
 correct, when he pointed out that my needle valve on the high side might be
 improperly seated.  I was overcharged.  Once I bled off some refrigerant, it
 began working nice and peachy--cool.  Then, I augmented the effect by having
 my windows professionally tinted--also cool.

 Then...I launched into my pièce de résistance; I began to finally re-install
 an auxiliary fan(s), which I'd removed during the intercooler
 interlude--wouldn't fit anymore.  I've been without for about 2.5 years--not
 smart.  But wait, it gets even not-smarter...

 I ordered two little 9 SPAL units, along with various mounting options,
 including little nifty stainless pins that fit between the fins and hold the
 fans (they're fairly lightweight) right tightly up against the condenser.
 They're so cute and alluring, that I couldn't resist.   By now, you've
 probably figured out what happened next, haven't you?  Yes, that
 gut-wrenching hiss and steamy cloud followed my third exploratory poke.

 It's still venting as I type this...

   
 

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Re: [MBZ] Virtual Pillory: Come jeer at the idiot!

2007-08-11 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Is that thing a two seater?

Don't feel bad, I hate those little push through mounting things. I 
don't know why they make them.  I got a free radiator for my truck a 
while back that was fine, and I mauled a handful of the inner tubes 
while removing a dual electric fan setup that the previous owner had 
installed with the plastic pins and wound up with pinholes right in the 
middle. It would be too much surgery to fix, so I just ordered a custom 
( larger ) radiator for the thing to the tune of about $550...ouch.



--Robert

Zeitgeist wrote:
 Hi, my name is Casey, and I'm an idiot.

 Here's great fun for the whole family...

 So, last week I was whining about my mal-performing AC, and dumbshitedly
 assumed that my compressor was failing--WRONG!  Turns out that Mr Cathey was
 correct, when he pointed out that my needle valve on the high side might be
 improperly seated.  I was overcharged.  Once I bled off some refrigerant, it
 began working nice and peachy--cool.  Then, I augmented the effect by having
 my windows professionally tinted--also cool.

 Then...I launched into my pièce de résistance; I began to finally re-install
 an auxiliary fan(s), which I'd removed during the intercooler
 interlude--wouldn't fit anymore.  I've been without for about 2.5 years--not
 smart.  But wait, it gets even not-smarter...

 I ordered two little 9 SPAL units, along with various mounting options,
 including little nifty stainless pins that fit between the fins and hold the
 fans (they're fairly lightweight) right tightly up against the condenser.
 They're so cute and alluring, that I couldn't resist.   By now, you've
 probably figured out what happened next, haven't you?  Yes, that
 gut-wrenching hiss and steamy cloud followed my third exploratory poke.

 It's still venting as I type this...

   


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Re: [MBZ] OT: 1992 Suburban AC

2007-08-09 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Most likely a fuse or the control unit, but there may be a high pressure 
switch on that system, or a few other switches thrown on just to make a 
mess like most  later GM ac systems that make me ill and angry to work 
on. Hard to say without seeing it. you may be able to find some decent 
online diagrams on autozones website

Robert

Jim Cathey wrote:
 My BiL brought his burbinator by for an AC recharge.
 Unfortunately that's not what's wrong with it.  Surfing
 for an hour or two got me nothing on how it's constructed.
 The compressor wouldn't cut in, though the low side pressure
 was plenty high and the switch on the accumulator was closed.

 I jumped the compressor on to see what happened.  The pipe to
 the condensor gets hot, pipe from gets warm.  By the time that
 small line gets to the firewall it's ice cold.  Accumulator
 itself is warm, the suction hose at the compressor is coolish.

 Unfortunately my gauge set wouldn't go on the high-side fitting,
 so I don't have that pressure.  No idea why the compressor won't
 run either.  Anybody got a quick checklist or a place to look
 for the same?  He's leaving tomorrow AM, so I probably won't
 have time to do anything but who knows...

 Oh, and the burbinator has rear AC too.

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] OT: AC Gauge set

2007-08-09 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If you buy a good set, you won't be sorry. for occasional use the cheap 
ones work fine, but the connectors and knobs don't last long if used a lot.

---Robert

Allan Streib wrote:
 Went to put a can of R134a in my wife's car last night, and could not
 find the cheapo tap and hose that I bought for this at Autozone or
 someplace.

 Thinking of buying a set of proper service gauges -- so I can see the
 high and low side, etc.

 There is a Snap-On set on eBay right now, any thoughts on that or
 other brands?  I'd like one that is R12 and R134a capable, and has a
 vacuum connection.

 Allan
   


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Re: [MBZ] OT: AC Gauge set

2007-08-09 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
The hoses won't fit without adapters and those are getting harder to 
find. If you do get an r12 set with adapters for 134, you will need to 
drop by an HVAC supply and buy a bag of the little rubber washers that 
go in the fittings, because they take a beating  ( they're dirt cheap )

---Robert

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 

 What about having one manifold and two sets of hoses, and flushing out
 the manifold with some type of solvent in between uses?  Or is that
 being penny-wise and pound-foolish?

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al

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Re: [MBZ] OT: AC Gauge set

2007-08-09 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Napa carries them. I just had to buy one a few weeks ago for a new 
vacuum pump I bought  ( my old adapter was seized to my old pump). I 
think they hit me about $5 for it, but considering that I had wasted 
half a day hitting all the HVAC  supply houses and came up empty handed, 
$5 isn't too bad :-)

--Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 speaking of adaptors, anybody know where I can get an adaptor for the 
 yellow hose to hook R134 guages to my originally R12 recycle machine? 
 It has the R12 side fitting on the front of the machine to hook guages 
 to, need an adaptor so I can hook my R134 guages to it.

 Robert  Tara Ludwick wrote:
   
 The hoses won't fit without adapters and those are getting harder to 
 find. If you do get an r12 set with adapters for 134, you will need to 
 drop by an HVAC supply and buy a bag of the little rubber washers that 
 go in the fittings, because they take a beating  ( they're dirt cheap )

 ---Robert


 


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Re: [MBZ] Fords fuel mileage

2007-08-08 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick

Ha, That reminds me of a whole bunch of years ago out in LA, I was 
driving home at about 2 am at the speed limit, 55 mph  on I 210 ( I 
think that's the number , foothill freeway?  been a while )and got 
pulled over. The cop explained that the reason he pulled me over was 
that the only people driving the speed limit at that time of night were 
drunk, everyone else was going 80+...and weren't getting pulled over..go 
figure. I was a commercial driver at the time and was pretty picky about 
keeping my record clean so no speeding.

-Robert

Tom Hargrave wrote:
 Here in Alabama, 80 MPH on the interstate is more the norm. But from 11
 pm through about 3 am, speeds drift up to 90 MPH. Run much slower and
 you are a safety hazard.

 Thanks, Tom
 256-656-1924

 -Original Message-
 From: Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: 8/8/07 2:01 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fords fuel mileage

 As long as you don't mind people approaching you from the rear at a
 20mph speed differential, then riding your bumper until they can get
 around you.

 LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

   
 I did a little study on mileage at various speeds over
 the last month, and found that by reducing my highway
 speed from 70 mph to 55 mph gained me about 2 mpg per
 tank.

 I keep detailed mileage records, so I'm convinced that
 this was the result of the slower speed.  I will say
 that most of my highway driving is for short distances
 of maybe 20-30 miles per trip, not that it matters. 
 However, if I was making a longer trip I might
 consider going faster..
 

   


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Re: [MBZ] OT Re: GM 6.5L Diesel

2007-08-07 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick

Now THAT would be one sweet truck. I wonder what they had to do for 
front springs ( as the gears turn in my head looking out at the f350 in 
the driveway :-)

-Robert

Mitch Haley wrote:

   

 Several years ago, a fellow put a C series Cummins 6 cylinder (8.3L I believe)
 in front of a Fuller 9 speed trans, in a F350 4x4. 
 1050 foot pounds without modifying the engine. 
 He had to move the firewall back, a C engine is even longer than a 6BT. 

 After seeing pictures of International Scout repower jobs, I wonder if
 a 6AT (3.5L) would make a decent car engine. Stock power rating is a
 little less than a OM603, but I bet you could boost that a lot before
 running into durability problems. Problem is it's taller than a OM617.
 Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] OT Isuzu NPR

2007-08-07 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
That ought to turn into one nice truck, those things are stout, not very 
fast, but stout, and they generally last a good long time. I seriously 
considered getting one of the crew cab models to drag my 5th wheel 
around, but there aren't any used ones around here, they're all in the 
north east. or California

--Robert

Kevin Kraly wrote:
 Well,
 When the good deals come, they keep on coming!  The dragon boat club board 
 is looking at purchasing a '94 Isuzu NPR with 195K miles on it for $4500. 
 it does have a couple of minor problems.  The AC needs a charge, and some 
 accessories still function, for example, the blower motor,  when the key is 
 off which drains the battery which I'm guessing is due to a faulty ignition 
 switch.  The owner thinks that it's odd that the highbeams still function as 
 well.  I figured that since the lights can be switched on with the key off, 
 the highbeams should too.  Other than the above, the truck runs and drives 
 great!

 Kevin in Portland, OR
 1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula 


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Re: [MBZ] OT Isuzu NPR

2007-08-07 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick

Theres a lot of cheap mid sized trucks on the east coast cheap, but you 
really have to watch them, cracked frames, broken springs etc are 
commonplace, especially the ones that run NJ and NYC regularly. you can 
put 20 years worth of wear in 2 years there.

---Robert

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Man the prices are high out there!!

 I'd sell ya my Iveco 15-14 Euroturbo for less than that.It's an 89
 with 94K miles and a GVWR of 14,800#.  How many boats will fit on a 19' x
 8' flatbed?
   But of course, as usual, the wrong side of the country has what you
 need, again.

 Mike


   
 Well,
 When the good deals come, they keep on coming!  The dragon boat club board
 is looking at purchasing a '94 Isuzu NPR with 195K miles on it for $4500.
 it does have a couple of minor problems.  The AC needs a charge, and some
 accessories still function, for example, the blower motor,  when the key
 is
 off which drains the battery which I'm guessing is due to a faulty
 ignition
 switch.  The owner thinks that it's odd that the highbeams still function
 as
 well.  I figured that since the lights can be switched on with the key
 off,
 the highbeams should too.  Other than the above, the truck runs and drives
 great!

 Kevin in Portland, OR
 1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula


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Re: [MBZ] GM 6.5L Diesel

2007-08-07 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I wish I could get that kind of mileage out of my old ford 7.3 IDI 
international, but  have a 1 ton crew cab with  4.10 rear and a heavy 
towing bed, at last count I'm getting around 14 mpg dragging 10,000 
pounds of trailer around.At least no computers to deal with on that beast.

---Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote:
 No, not really.  I am not saying the D/A gets better mileage than the 
 Cummins.  It will get 18ish without any problem, on up to about 21.  What 
 kind of mileage did you get with your last Duramax?

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 PP Supervisor

 - Original Message - 
 From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Tuesday, August 07, 2007 8:01 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] GM 6.5L Diesel


   
 And drinks a disproportionate amount of fuel...

 


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Re: [MBZ] OT Re: GM 6.5L Diesel

2007-08-07 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Now that's a sweet idea!
 If you were to keep an eye on the papers out in LA every once in a 
while an old rolls in the state of neglect required for such an endeavor 
pops up cheap.

--Robert

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 Ive said here before, I've been dreaming for a long time of
 putting a Cummins engine in a '70s or '80s Rolls-Royce Silver Shadow.
 Those things have TALL hoods and I bet you'd have the clearance with
 little or no fabrication.  There are already kits out there to swap a
 Chevy small-block into the Rolls, so some of the work is already done
 as far as mount fabrication, etc.  (I.e. if you can swap a Chevy 350
 in for the Rolls 6.75, and a Cummins in place of a stock 350, then by
 the transitive property...)

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al

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Re: [MBZ] GM 6.5L Diesel

2007-08-06 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
You can find out about that beast over on the forums at oilburners.net  
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=6

--Robert


Kevin Kraly wrote:

 I've come across what seems to be the deal of the century on a small Diesel 
 bus.  It's a 1994 GMC Vandura cutaway chassis 16 passenger bus with the 6.5L 
 Diesel engine with only 79K miles on it priced at $3500.  There's no mention 
 of the turbo, but I thought that the 6.5L was equipped with a turbo. 
 Correct me if I'm wrong, and I hope I'm not since the turbo would breathe 
 some life into what would be a dog otherwise.  It would be transporting 
 myself and my fellow visually impaired dragon boat paddlers around the 
 Pacific Northwest.  I forgot to mention that it's 4wd, kind of unusual for a 
 bus.  I guess you never know when you'll need it, but hey, it's there just 
 in case although it's costing some MPG.

 Kevin in Portland, OR
 1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula 


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Re: [MBZ] CL

2007-08-06 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If you wanted to search all the CL sites at once, go to google and type 
in this format Mercedes site: craigslist.org   and it gives results for 
all of them. Unfortunatly, I don't know how often google updates their 
search of craigslist so there will be a lot of out of date results.
I just tried it, it still works.

Robert


Allan Streib wrote:
 Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

   
 Ok Craigslist nuts, how can one search multiple cities at the
 sametime on CL?  I know it's been discussed before  TIA all.
 

 Last I knew, CL did not allow it.  Some third parties have hacked up
 some front-end sites that search multiple CL cities on the back end,
 but CL keeps tweaking their protocols to thwart them.  Sometimes they
 work, sometimes they dont.  I don't recall the sites; I'm sure Google
 will tell you.


   


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Re: [MBZ] AC bungholery

2007-08-05 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Tearing into compressors generally requires more dollars in special 
tools than the price of a new compressor. Speaking of which, that 
compressor that you bought a year or two ago, was it new or rebuilt. If 
it was rebuilt, chances are , it's a bum compressor. I quit wasting my 
time and customer's money on rebuilt compressors a long time ago. 
Quality control is junk on most, and you can get a new one for about the 
same price .

--Robert

Zeitgeist wrote:
 I gather the reed valves are internal and non-DIY accessible--correct?
 Damn, I just bought that compressor a year or two ago.

 Anyone know if other model Benzes used the same Nippondenso compressor in
 '87.  As Zach alluded, there's an '87 260E in the local Pick-a-Part, and
 it'd be great if that compressor were the same.

 On 8/4/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 1) Low charge
 2) leaking reed valves in compressor


 
 Casey
 __
 '87 300TD intercooler/propane/biodiesel
 '94 100CSQ Avant
 '90 90Q
 '89 Bluestar
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Re: [MBZ] OT Ford Ranger Power Steering

2007-08-04 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
You nailed it.
A ford truck where the power steering pump doesn't whine at least a 
little,  is a pretty rare thing.

---Robert

OK Don wrote:
 I wondered if it was normal for a Ford - or non MB vehicle.

   
 FWIW my 95 Mazda B2300 (Ford Ranger) has always had a whiny PS pump.

 Might want to ask these guys... http://www.ford-trucks.com/  Very good
 forum with very knowledgeable folks. :)

 John
 

   


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Re: [MBZ] Air conditioning kit for 114/115

2007-08-03 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Parts on ebay Germany for an old Benz or any other European car 
generally go for way less than what those parts go for here. I've been 
known to shop on ebay Germany on occasion and save a fortune.

Robert

Zach wrote:
 Since you already know the shipping cost why not post it on ebay.de?



 --- Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   
 Had a guy from Germany who wanted to buy all the parts to convert his

 115 Diesel to Air conditioned.  He backed out after finding how much 
 it would cost to ship it there.  It takes 3 boxes.  Before it goes to

 ebay, is anyone here interested in the kit?

 It includes
 compressor and bracket
 hoses
 receiver/drier (but I'd recommend a new one)
 Condenser
 condenser fan
 evaporator with expansion valve
 Control with knob
 And a few related bits

 please email me offlist if you are interested
 I can't guarantee the compressor will work, but a new one is only 
 about $200.  Much cheaper than the GM or japanese compressors.




 Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] Legality of towing unregistered car in NY?

2007-08-02 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Most states won't allow anything to be towed with wheels on the ground 
without tags. On a trailer , you're OK . In NY I bet it's cheaper to 
rent a trailer than to call a tow truck ( after an experience with NY 
tow truck rates a few years ago...OUCH!

---Robert

Levi Smith wrote:
 Anyone happen to know what the legality is of towing an unregistered car in
 NY?

 I've got a Subaru that needs fixing and I think I may let someone else do
 it, but it's not registered...  I'm thinking I would tow it down and then
 maybe just attach the strap and mock-tow it back(assuming it runs then), but
 it wouldn't have plates either way...  And it does go right past a police
 station...

 Anyone know if that's legal or not?  I was thinking it was...  But then I
 couldn't quite see how it could be if you can't pull a trailer without
 plates...

 Thanks,
 Levi
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Re: [MBZ] u-pull discovery

2007-08-01 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If you're in the north east or possibly southern california you might 
stand a chance of finding Iveco parts. They didn't sell too many of the 
things anywhere else in the country. Around here , parts are non 
existent for the things.

Robert

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 So do any of these foreign parts yards have any Iveco trucks in them?

 Mike

   
 I would dicker with the guy at the foreign auto parts salvage yard I
 went to occasionally, if I was buying a bunch of little bits.  He was a
 middle eastern guy, seemed to be by way of Mexico, didn't seem to phase
 him a bit, and acted like it was a normal way to do things, which I
 think it was.  His first WAG at a price was always ridiculous anyway,
 and I think if I hablaed espanol I would have gotten a better deal to
 begin with.  But that place now is up for sale, don't know if all the
 cars are still there or what.

 --R

 Allan Streib wrote:
 
 Visited a u-pull yard (first time at that sort of place) that
 specializes in imports.  It is about about a 30 minute drive from my
 house.  Was not even aware that it existed, until I was referred there
 by our local salvage yard.

 Found a left-hand rear jump seat for my Nissan Frontier that I have
 been scouring the internet trying to find.  Noted that they had lots
 of late model Benz wrecks, along with Volkswagens, Volvos, BMWs, and
 the lots of Japanese stuff.  Didn't see much in the way of older W123s
 etc. but that was not really why I was there.

 Quick question -- do you normally negotiate prices at a place like
 this?  I did not today, as I thought the price was reasonably fair and
 I was just happy to find what I was looking for -- but as a general
 practice, is it worth counter-offering at places like this?

 Allan


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[MBZ] Rear AC ducting

2007-07-29 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Would anyone happen to have any pictures of the ducting to the rear seat 
center console AC vent on a 126 ( or any others with a similar setup ) 
and how it is routed?

Thanks-Robert

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Re: [MBZ] HOAs Re: anyone want a CHEAP 240D Fixer?

2007-07-28 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
It's best to just live out in the middle of nowhere, no neighbors to 
worry about .
Unfortunately, even that doesn't work sometimes. recently, we were 
annexed into city limits and Lately, there's been some subdivisions 
going in a few miles down the road, and whenever the real estate agents 
are having trouble unloading the poorly built overpriced dumps, they 
call code enforcement on every house along the roads going to their 
overpriced subdivisions.This all used to be farmland and hillbilly 
heaven. Put in a bunch of new houses and there goes the neighborhood.

I think that while we're still in the majority, we need to start a HOA 
here and make it a requirement that each dwelling have at least two no 
functioning automobiles with hoods removed in the yard and at least one 
non functioning major appliance on the porch, so we can do our bit to 
preserve traditional Ozark culture :-) Maybe we can get the historical 
society to step in on our behalf ?

-Robert

Kevin Kraly wrote:
 I don't necessarily like HOA's, but I was thinking of a similar strategy to 
 that of your Mog friend.  Hopefully, we won't have to go through that.

 Kevin in Portland, OR
 1983 300Sd 267Kmi, Ursula 


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Re: [MBZ] HOAs Re: anyone want a CHEAP 240D Fixer?

2007-07-28 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
There used to be a cylinder head shop/MB and others boneyard in Little 
Rock, on the outskirts, and when the city encroached on it, it went 
by-by. I haven't got the straight story, but the word is that the guy 
got zoned/legislated/taxed out of existence. Big industrial development 
going in it's place last time I went by.

Out where we are, all the folks around here run business out of their 
houses, some involve some heavy equipment, the guy behind me gets semi 
trucks delivering for his beverage machine business in the middle of the 
night. Non of it bothers any of us who moved out here in the first place 
to get away from all the citified ways of doing things, but for some 
reason, it's a problem for the new people buying places way down the 
road who can't see or hear it at home ( and I'm paying for a sewer on my 
water bill that got run to those morons along a different road just 
because it's past me, but there's no plans to run it up my road...go figure)

-Robert

LWB250 wrote:
 What really sucks is the situation where you live in a
 rural area so you can have stuff laying around in the
 back 40, and the area around you gets developed,
 forcing you to clean up to comply with new laws.

 I think this is happening to Bob, the 'mog guy down in
 Parrish, FL, about 20 miles south of me.  The whole
 area is going berserk with development, and he's smack
 dab in the middle of it.

 I gotta call him and see what's up these days...

 Dan



 --- Kaleb C. Striplin, work [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:

   
 geez!!

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 PP Supervisor

 - Original Message - 
 From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, July 28, 2007 9:35 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] HOAs Re: anyone want a CHEAP 240D
 Fixer?


 
 Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote:
   
 What were they complaining about the mog for?
 
 There was a town in Sillinois that passed an
   
 ordinance banning the
 
 outdoor parking of trucks, which included the
   
 pickups that several
 
 residents used for daily driving. I imagine that
   
 in the last ten
 
 years, as SUVs replaced mommyvans, they had to
   
 repeal it. 
 
 I just checked, they modified the parking ban in
   
 2002 in Skokie. 
 
 http://www.skokie.org/public/truckpark.html

 I wonder if Moron Grove IL still has a gun ban?

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 Boardwalk for $500? In 2007? Ha! Play Monopoly Here and Now (it's updated for 
 today's economy) at Yahoo! Games.
 http://get.games.yahoo.com/proddesc?gamekey=monopolyherenow  

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Re: [MBZ] How to remove diesel oil from concrete?

2007-07-28 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Simple green does a pretty decent job. Let it soak for a while keep it 
wet then hose it off.

Refrigerator coil cleaner does a bang up job ( nasty stuff, caustic soda )

---Robert

ANGELO GIAIMO wrote:
 Parked my SDL in the garage for about a week while we went to Jacksonville.
 When I came back found a small puddle of oil about 4 X 6 under the front
 left fender.  (It's a leaking oil cooler hose which is getting fixed
 tomorrow)  Anyway, what's the best way to get rid of that big black oil
 blotch left in the concrete in my garage?

 Thanks,

 Angelo Giaimo



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Re: [MBZ] A/C O-Rings

2007-07-23 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
You can get AC oring assortments at just about any parts store. When you 
put the new Oring on, DO NOT lubricate it with ester or PAG oil used 
with r134a, they will dry the new oring out and it will leak before 
long. get a can of old style R12 mineral oil and lubricate the new 
orings with that before installing. Check around. Most places want about 
$30 for a qt of the stuff, O'reilly's  had it for around $12 a qt last 
time i had to buy a can a couple of months ago

If you have a fitting too hard to turn, Stop, get a can of Aero Kroil, 
http://www.kanolabs.com/  soak the fitting down for a few days, re spray 
it once in a while, then go after it.

---Robert

Bill Gallagher wrote:
 My A/C has a slow leak since conversion to the new R. Is there a kit of 
 O-Ring for a 123 to solve the problem
 If there is a fitting too difficult to turn,  can a  matte of 
 exposy  wrapped around the fitting hold under the pressure 
 TIA

 Bill
 1981 300 TD
  



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Re: [MBZ] OT: Free motor oil

2007-07-23 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
No more free oil.  I just went through that whole thing, it says to 
click on it to join the free penzoil thing, but once you do a message 
come up saying they're done with that one.

---Robert

Sunil Hari wrote:
 http://www.firstdriversclub.com/login.jsp

 if you become a (free) member of their First Driver's club, then join the
 Pennzoil Platinum campaign, they'll send you a free case of Pennzoil
 platinum motor oil.  I know I know, it's not Mobil 1 or Amsoil, and I'm not
 trying to start yet another oil thread; I just figured some of you out there
 would want free oil.

 Disclaimer:  I joined this about 5 minutes ago to get the free oil, so I'm
 not unassociated with this.  But I don't receive anything if you join or
 not.


   


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Re: [MBZ] ABS Flush

2007-07-23 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
The inside diameter of the brake lines isn't very big , they don't hold 
all that much fluid. The new stuff generally appears at the bleeders 
pretty quick, especially if using a pressure bleeder and you've removed 
all the old fluid from the reservoir before starting.

--Robert

LarryT wrote:
 Howdy -
 I am replacing my rotors  calipers on the - 91 300D 2.5t W124 - and 
 flushing the brake fluid as I bleed the system.   I am using a Pressure 
 Bleeder and maintaining 20 + #'s on the bleeder.   I am using Ate Blue 
 brake fluid so I can tell when fresh fluid has filled the part of the system 
 I am working on - I'll use the Gold Ate next time.  .  However, the blue 
 seems to appear pretty quickly and I am worried the ABS unit may not be 
 being flushed.  Didn;t see anything in the WSM about it - should I proceed 
 as I am or is there something else I should do when bleeding?  BTW, I have 
 rebuilt the calipers and cleaned any sludge out so they're in good shape.

 Am I doing all that is needed or is there more I need to do?

 Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
 www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
 Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
 PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
 Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
 .


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Re: [MBZ] Chinese quality, when needed

2007-07-20 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Yup, and the US shouldn't allow importing of plated items from countries 
that don't have the same requirements. That would level the playing 
field pretty quick.

I live on the outskirts of a town that has a major industrial furniture 
plant where they do a lot of plating. For years their idea of 
environmental standards was to open the windows at night ( I hate to 
think what the cancer and birth defect rate was in that place with all 
that lovely cyanide gas and other nasties floating around,but it was 
common knowledge for years that this town had the highest rates of 
allergies asthma etc in the state ) .
Something finally got done about the place a few years ago and ( my 
guess is whoever was getting paid off retired ), oddly enough , the last 
few years , we've been seeing tons of squirrels, rabbits ,, and amazing 
number of large predatory birds( all of which should be loosing 
population due to the loss of farmland from urban sprawl ),  lots of 
other critters and all kinds of assorted songbirds all over the place, 
even though urban sprawl has come to our doorstep. for about 15-20 years 
small wildlife and birds had got pretty scarce and the only birds stout 
enough to handle it were the starlings.


I certainly wouldn't call those environmental regs draconian.

Part of the reason that you can get high quality plated items from other 
countries is that they can get a whole building full of people to 
manually polish each item for about $0.50 a day each.

---Robert

Allan Streib wrote:
 Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

   
 Oh, and we currently import chrome plated beer towers  beer faucets
 from India  the finish is absolutely perfect, better than the
 product we buy from stateside manufacturers.
 

 How much of this is due to stateside manufacturers being hamstrung by
 draconian environmental regulations (chroming involves some rather
 nasty chemicals), whereas foreign chromers can do whatever works.  Or
 is this not a factor?

 I seem to recall hearing that some of the best rechroming services for
 restorers are in Mexico, for this reason.

 Allan
   


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Re: [MBZ] 1980 300D

2007-07-15 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If you're having to pay to have it done, the ac repair is going to start 
at around $200 min for a check and charge and quickly go up to $1400 + 
if it's anything major. Something to consider.  Dead AC needing a 
compressor is one of the main reasons people dump cars in this area, 
they can take a little more and set a down on a new car.

Robert

BillR wrote:
 I am suddenly the transportation for not only my M-i-L, but my daughter and
 her kids [for a few months].  Lots of fun to see them after a year overseas,
 but I need some transportation for the kids.  A lady near here has a 1980
 300D with 176k miles [it is YELLOW].  She says the engine and transmission
 are fine, though there is a small leak in the tranny.  The body looks good
 except for a bubble of rust at the right side of the rear window [can't tell
 yet if it goes through or is just starting].   The AC is not working and the
 RF window is broken out, which also wet the window switches.  They do not
 work.  Dash has 5 narrow cracks, front seats are whole but faded MB tex.
 The rest seems ok.  She is asking $995 for it.  I am considering having it
 evaluated by my indy to diagnose the AC and tranny leak.  I think these cars
 last pretty well,  but wonder what the main items are to look for.  Also,
 what is involved in replacing the RF window?  She has been trying to sell it
 for some time so should be willing to lower the price.  What are your
 thoughts - anyone have one of those? 
 TIA - BillR
 1981 300SD  291k miles  
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Re: [MBZ] OT Do Google Earth pictures get updated?

2007-07-14 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Probably not often. I got a great night view of our house and you could 
see the heat coming off the engine on my wife's car...problem is, she'd 
been out of town all day and the car wasn't there, a little more 
searching the area showed two giant churches that had been built down 
the road about 2 years earlier, were dirt lots.

-Robert

Zoltan Finks wrote:
 So you can stalk your old vehicle using google earth - cool.

 Actually I have wondered something about Google Earth: How often are
 the pictures updated - or are they updated at all?

 I ask because I have thought the same thing - you can sort of keep
 tabs on things if the pictures are updated often enough.

 This way, I suppose, if one's ex-girlfriend was fat enough, you could
 even stalk her.

 Brian

 On 7/14/07, Zach [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 Gave it away...  But its still on google earth!

 Why?  did you want it?



 --- Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 I am in.  We can have it at my place here in Olympia too, I have
 
 lots
   
 of room and some other cool old junk to ogle.  Unimogs, turbodiesel
 vanagon, Haflinger, MB 406D delivery van...
 
 School bus?  Or is that gone now?

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Return of the greater Boston crack smokers

2007-07-14 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Those things were actually pretty peppy and got great mileage, but were 
poorly built and parts were impossible to find 15 years ago, I can't 
imagine trying to keep one on the road now.

---Robert

Kevin Kraly wrote:
 I'm tempted to look at a diesel Cherokee but a v6 GMC diesel, thats gotta be 
 the 4.3 which IIRC is 85hp...

 85HP out of 4.3L?  What a PIG!  I'm sure it weighs more than a NA 617 too, 
 and that puts out 88HP with 3.0L displacement.  what did the original 
 Renault put out?  Was that a 2.2L NA 4 cylinder DIesel?

 Kevin in Portland, OR
 1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula 


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Re: [MBZ] tires, again

2007-07-13 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If you do get occasional snow, check out the Nokian WR So far as I know 
it's still the only all season tire that is also rated as a snow tire, 
but they wear as long as most other all season tires 
http://www.nokiantires.com/en/tire_wr.aspx?season=summer 
In some places, if you get tangled up with another car on snowy 
surfaces, having the snow rating symbol on your tire can keep you from 
getting a ticket, and in some cases if you have the snow tires and the 
other guy doesn't, they'll rule it the other guys fault on the spot due 
to improper equipment for conditionsjust a thought.

Personally I look at good tires for winter conditions as cheap 
insurance, costs about the same as an insurance deductable, and they're 
a lot more fun than spending the night in a ditch. and it only snows a 
couple of times a year here, but we usually get a nice dose of ice with it.

Robert

Allan Streib wrote:
 Looks like I'll be needing new tires for the 300D this fall.  We don't
 usually have enough snow here to justify snow tires, so I'm looking
 for recommendations for a good all-season tire so I can start watching
 for sales.

 I currently have Michelin X-1 tires which I got on sale and have been
 pretty happy with them, but they're almost down to the tread wear
 limits.

 Looking for good wet performance and quiet.

   


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Questions for A/C wizards

2007-07-13 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Just replace the schrader valves in the fittings and get new caps, 
vacuum it down and recharge and you'll be back to looking for a jacket 
in no time.
Those screw on fittings are the standard for retrofit. They generally 
have some high strengh loctite type stuff on the threads so they can't 
be removed very easily without damaging the threads on the original 
fitting. This is a requirement to prevent tampering.
Ford AC systems are pretty stout, no worries about r134a not cooling 
enough. AC systems are the one thing the 'merican cars have up on 
everyone else.
If it's an ofifice tube system instead of an expansion valve system, and 
you're in a hot climate, you might want to consider putting a variable 
orifice valve in the thing. They work nicely ( they don't do much up 
north in cooler climates )

Robert

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 I've been driving my Lincoln to work because the A/C in my 124 is
 acting up and the weather here's been unbearable.  Today the lights on
 the climate control suddenly started blinking (indicating an error
 condition) and simultaneously the engine hiccupped.  I immediately
 thought, Ack, low Freon, clutch must have locked up for an instant
 before the pressure switch told the computer to disengage it, I've got
 to catch it before it breaks the serpentine belt and turned off the
 A/C.  I got to work without further incident and popped the hood to
 see if anything was obviously wrong.  While contemplating the
 compressor in my usual half-awake morning state I suddenly realized,
 Hey, those service ports don't look right!  Indeed they didn't.
 Some bozo apparently put on those screw-on McParts R12-to-R134a
 fittings in order to recharge the system with R134a, and didn't even
 bother to slap on a sticker under the hood indicating that a
 conversion (such as it is) had been done.  I didn't notice before
 because the usual red and blue plastic caps aren't there.

 The absence of caps on the valves, however, made it clear where the
 leak was: the high side fitting was actually bubbling with oil and
 escaping refrigerant.  So I guess I need to replace that
 one---hopefully it's just the R134A adapter that's bad, not the real
 R12 fitting underneath.  But then what?

 I know all the concerns about decreasing A/C performance by using
 R134a in a system designed to use R12, but this is not a Mercedes A/C
 system where cooling capacity is already marginal---this is a Detroit
 system, that when functioning right makes the inside of the car feel
 like an Eskimo's meat locker, even in ambient temps over 100.  I still
 want it to work right, though, and not introduce any new leaks if I
 can help it!  And I have no way to know whether any seals have been
 replaced with R134a-compatible ones, or whether any other part of the
 conversion was done right.  (I suspect not.)

 Questions: Should I replace the fitting and just go ahead and charge
 with R134A and the appropriate oil on top of whatever's already in
 there?  Is there a conversion oil that I should be using as
 preferable to regular 134a-compatible oil for a retrofitted R12
 system?   Is there any additive I can put in that'll help with the
 seals?

 Or should I vacuum the whole system, replace the receiver/dryer, and
 refill with hydrocarbons (for test purposes!) a la Jim C.?  Is doing
 the latter but not replacing the R/D living dangerously, or is what
 they say on the sites that sell HC refrigerants true, about moisture
 not being a big deal in a system thus pressurized?  If I go with HC,
 should I take off the R134a conversion adapters, or is messing with
 those asking for trouble (possibly stressing the old R12 fittings and
 making them leak, necessitating replacement)?

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo
 '93 Isuzu Trooper
 '86 Lincoln Mark VII LSC

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Re: [MBZ] tires, again

2007-07-13 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I've never been fond of michelins either. They last a long time, but 
they're just plain squirilly. I've had about the same luck with 
Yokohamas. I had a set of those on a car for over 80k miles, but they 
scared me half to death when it rained or on a mountain road

---Robert

LWB250 wrote:
 I think Michelins are highly overrated.  I have
 Goodyears on my car and they have outlasted every
 Michelin I've ever owned.

 I have Dunlops on my bike, and they are far more
 popular among bike people than Michelins.  In fact, I
 don't think I've ever heard a biker suggest a Michelin
 in a conversation.

 Dan

 --- Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

   
 i spent my whole life worshiping at the shrine of
 michelin.  my neighbor
 sells goodyear tires and told me to try goodyear
 assurance, which he'd sell
 me at cost.  best tire i've ever used by far.

 On 7/13/07, Allan Streib [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 wrote:
 
 Looks like I'll be needing new tires for the 300D
   
 this fall.  We don't
 
 usually have enough snow here to justify snow
   
 tires, so I'm looking
 
 for recommendations for a good all-season tire so
   
 I can start watching
 
 for sales.

 I currently have Michelin X-1 tires which I got on
   
 sale and have been
 
 pretty happy with them, but they're almost down to
   
 the tread wear
 
 limits.

 Looking for good wet performance and quiet.

 --
 1983 300D
 1966 230

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 Moody friends. Drama queens. Your life? Nope! - their life, your story. Play 
 Sims Stories at Yahoo! Games.
 http://sims.yahoo.com/  

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Re: [MBZ] Anybody watch Mythbusters? Just tested WVO in SD

2007-07-12 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Actually, the red hair guy was ... or at leas an aspiring actor way 
back. At one time they showed an old clip of him in one of the old 
Charmin toilet paper commercials, he was the young shop clerk working in 
Mr Whipple's store in the ' please don't squeeze the Charmin' 
commercial...with a lot more hair.

That aside, they do an incredible job of trying to piece these things 
together, even if they aren't up to snuff for the purists in any given 
episode, and they're loads of fun to watch.

---Robert

John Robbins wrote:
   They also weren't actors in their 
 work before Mythbusters...



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Re: [MBZ] Anybody watch Mythbusters? Just tested WVO in SD

2007-07-12 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
That guy couldn't find his way out of a paper sack with a sawzall.  The 
few times I've seen that guys show, I've noticed the annoyance on the 
faces of the people he was supposedly helping while they were quietly 
covering for his screwing up.

-Robert

Jeff Zedic wrote:
 I think the best example of an expert that couldn't really do stuff is Bob
 Vila.

 I was often amazed at how much of a noob he was at home improvement stuff.

 Jeff Zedic
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Re: [MBZ] killing weeds

2007-07-12 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
The waste sludge leftover after filtering WVO and watery, nasty  wvo not 
even fit for filtering is a wicked weed killer. Nothing grows there 
after for a very long time.
For larger areas or near the house where I don't want to smell it, 
there's some stuff I get at the local farm store called Eraser that 
works infinitely better than Roundup and costs less. Keeps the ground 
bare for about45 days even with heavy rains.

I like the goat idea though. I used to have a brush goat years ago, 
handy critter, but now days everybody around here selling goats thinks 
they are purebred show critters and want $100 for the things. Sheesh, 
who ever heard of a $100 goat.

Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 What is a good home brew or store bought spray to kill certain areas of 
 vegetation?  I know diesel works pretty good.  Want to kill all living 
 things in certain areas.
   


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Re: [MBZ] this guy should be beaten too!

2007-07-11 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Ah, Battleground WA, the town named for a battle that never really 
happened. It's been downhill since . I used to live not far from there, 
that one is about par for the course.

--Robert

Redghost wrote:
 Yeah, but he is in Battle Ground.  that is like West Virginia, so he  
 may not be expected to know better

 clay

 On Jul 9, 2007, at 7:31 PM, Kevin Kraly wrote:

   
 http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/car/370261500.html

 Obviously, this guy was on some meds or maybe, he just happened to  
 have this
 engine/tranny lying around.  How would a 616 or 617 fit into this  
 chassis?

 Kevin in Portland, OR
 1983 300SD 267Kmi, Ursula


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Re: [MBZ] Slow A/C leak 240D

2007-07-11 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
Yup. Initially they tested r134a with new r12 hoses and it leaked like a 
sieve , hence the hose change recommendation, than after a bunch of 
cheapie conversions were done, they discovered that r12 hoses saturated 
with mineral oil didn't leak in most cases so they dropped the 
recommendation. There are a few vehicles that have had problems with the 
high side hose between the compressor and condenser giving out after a 
while, so some manufacturers still recommends changing that hose out 
during a conversion
I've personally never run across a seeping hose ( and I go over every 
system with a sniffer ) but I've had plenty of compressor seals start 
leaking like crazy after conversions, to the point that I strongly 
suggest that I put a new compressor in on any that come through for the 
conversion, and if they don't , I let them know ahead of time roughly 
what it is going to cost for seasonal recharges so they can figure it 
in. If doing your own recharges, it doesn't cost much, but for folks 
having to pay for it, it adds up to more than just having the compressor 
done after a few years.

I've also run across tons of leaking old orings. When installing new 
orings on an r134a system, DO NOT coat them with ester or pag oil, it 
will dry them out and cause leaks and other problems. you need to get a 
jug of r12 mineral oil to coat new orings with , even on a r134a system. 
check around on price, it usually only comes in qt cans and most local 
places want near $30 for it, Oreilly's has it for around $12

Robert

Kaleb C. Striplin, work wrote:
 Well from what I have always been told when a system is converted to R134 
 from R12, the oil from the R12 over the years forms a natural barrier inside 
 the hoses.

 ---
 Kaleb C. Striplin
 Cox Auto Trader
 730 PP Supervisor

 - Original Message - 
 From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Monday, July 09, 2007 7:51 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Slow A/C leak 240D


   
 The O-rings are just one issue. Some of the R12 lines are porous to R134A.
 If this is the case then the R134A will slowly bleed through the lines,
 leaving the oil behind since the oil can't pass through.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924
 


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Re: [MBZ] Slow A/C leak 240D

2007-07-11 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
When the shops ran over the system with a sniffer, did they bother to 
run it up under the dash to see if the evaporator is leaking?

Does the compressor or somewhere in the line have a high pressure safety 
blow off valve? Most systems do and  if those things fail or get weak, 
the first time you are stuck at a light in the heat with the ac on , 
they'll pop open and out it goes. Usually you'll hear it and see a fog 
coming out from under the car for a few seconds, but if they fail in 
slow release, you'll never notice it.

---Robert

archer wrote:
 Been trying to fix a slow A/C leak in an '83 240D off and on for the past 
 several months.  Two local shops were not able to find the leak with their 
 freon detectors, and I haven't been able to find it with four cans of UV 
 dyed freon and a high tech UV source from a lab.  I've checked the 
 condensate water from the evaporator several times for UV dye with negative 
 results.  I can pull it down with a vacuum pump and put in the required 
 weight of 134a one day, drive it that day with plenty of cold air blowing, 
 and the next day there will be absolutely no pressure showing on the low 
 pressure gauge.  I've never replaced any O-rings and the low pressure rubber 
 return line from the evaporator is the original.  I'm wondering what the 
 next thing to do would be?
 Thanks.
 Gerry Archer
 '83 300D and 240D 


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Consumption Creeping Up

2007-07-11 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If all the previously mentioned mechanical checks turn up nothing other 
than blowby, the rings may just be getting a bit dirty. I've had amazing 
luck with running a couple of treatments of Auto RX through old diesels. 
It does wonders for cleaning up sticky rings and bringing compression 
back up. I've even brought a couple of diesels back to life from the 
boneyard with it ( doesn't always get all of  them  though,  it did 
bring compression up on my old diesel  truck from the mid 100's to 200's 
, up to 405-420 psi all the way around, but one oil ring on #4 wouldn't 
unstick for anything on that one and I had to pull the thing ) check out 
www.auto-rx.com , not snake oil, it really works. Worst thing that can 
happen is you get a clean engine.

-Robert


Robert Rentfro wrote:
 It seems my oil consumption has crept up over the last several months. Now,
 at 176K miles, it seem to be going through one quart each 600 miles or so.
 It had been one per 1200 miles for the longest time. Nothing is dripping on
 the drive. The exhaust looks right but smells a little off (you know what I
 mean).  At last valve adjustment (10K ago or so) there was no chain stretch
 to speak of. She's running well overall. What do you reckon the deal is?

  

 Bob R.

 '77 300D 176K

 91 degrees at 0620 hrs, AZ

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Re: [MBZ] surprising experience at autozone

2007-07-05 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
I even had to go through that at the VW dealer when I was trying to 
find  a new oil fill cap for one of my diesel Volvos ( they have VW 
diesel engines ). The clown asks for model/ year and I try to tell him, 
just pick any mid 80's water cooled engine, and the guy just sat there 
and insisted that he needed  the exact model/year to find one, after 
which I blurted. for cryin' out loud, just go back and grab an oil cap, 
they're all the same ...still didn't register...ended up mail ordering one.

---Robert

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 On 7/4/07, tom savage [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 One thing that always bugs me about such parts places is the need for
 year, make, and model before anything can be done; it always seemed to
 me that a professional should be able to pull a part off the shelf if
 given the part number.
 

 Exactly!  You'd think that given the number of DIYers who are into
 swapping engines and making other such serious modifications to cars
 that they'd be more flexible.  I used to have a '71 Dart with a
 built-up mongrel of a motor installed by the PO... I got tired pretty
 quickly of saying over and over to the counterperson Just pick any
 early-70s Chrysler car with a V-8 on the computer, go and get the part
 off the shelf, and I'll see if it looks right.

 The most recent frustration was trying to find caps for the A/C
 service fittings in my Isuzu (R-12 system with GM-style fittings).
 Nothing was in the computer, but only the one guy over age 30 at NAPA
 could understand that A/C systems are sufficiently standardized that
 there might be a stock somewhere in the back of the store of generic
 A/C repair parts he could dig through for me.

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Re: [MBZ] radiator exploded

2007-07-05 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick

Any plastic tank radiator over 10 years old is on borrowed time. Chances 
are it was just its time.
I'm rather fond of Nissens radiators.  I've never had a problem with one 
( although I've heard of a number of people having problems with them if 
they ran Dexcool ) and on most applications they have more tubes and 
fins than the stock radiator.

-Robert

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 So my 20 year old took the 300SD along with 3 friends up the Kingsbury  grade 
 to Lake Tahoe for the festivities yesterday in 106 degree heat - almost  
 three thousand feet elevation change over the eight miles.   He was about 400 
 feet 
 from summit when he noticed temp gauge, pulled over and  just as he turned 
 key off he heard a pop and then it started spewing.  He  denies it being in 
 the 
 red zone, and he knew not to turn the A/C on at all as a  bearing is going 
 bad 
 in the blower.
  
 Dad's mobile service arrived to find about five inches of  the black plastic 
 radiator top had indeed blown off.  I thought the  expansion tank cap should 
 guard against such occurrence.  Is that  correct?  Had my cap gone wrong? 
 Anybody else experienced or heard of this  happening?
  
 I'm gonna do new radiator, hoses, thermostat and cap, but I notice Rusty  has 
 a Behr and a Neissens (sp?).  Are these interchangeable, and any  advantage 
 of one over the other?  Pretty straightforward job?   Anything else I should 
 replace while into it?  
  
 Is blower replacement a manageable job on the 126, or did they build the  car 
 around the blower like they did on my 108?
  
 As long as I'm asking questions, anybody know of a good 107  list?
  
 Thanks for any thoughts on this.
  
 Steve
 300SD 
 250SE
 220
 450SLC



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Re: [MBZ] Rust and Solvent-like smell in Fuel Filler

2007-07-05 Thread Robert Tara Ludwick
If the car hasn't been run for a while, it may have leftover winter 
blend of unleaded and diesel still in the tank, which would be going bad 
if it's sat since winter and would smell like varnish., or it may have 
had real old funky  diesel in it and they stuck some gas in there to 
give it a little kick to get it to fire.

-Robert

Zoltan Finks wrote:
 I have been grappling with whether to ask this or not, since I may not
 like the answer, whatever it may be:

 The 190D we recently bought actually has rust in and on the fuel
 filler tube and on the inside of the cap. In addition, I noticed when
 I put my nose down there (the first time I added fuel to the thing)
 that there is a sort of solvent-like smell, even gasoline-like.

 This is pretty peculiar to me, and my thoughts of course immediately
 jumped to what the seller might have done to, say, temporarily make
 the car run well (like putting in some sort of additive).

 Does diesel purge smell like this? And have any of you with a similar
 model had rust in these places? Wierd!

 Brian
 87 190D

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