Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-22 Thread LarryT via Mercedes
I put a dab of White-out on the valve stems as I adjust them. Once all 
have a white dot on all of them I'm done!  ;-)


LarryT
91 300D
78 240D

On 7/9/2014 12:35 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

I used to make a little map of the valves and cross them out as I did them. 
Made it easy to keep track of what I had done and kept me from missing one. I 
also did all the intakes at one time and then all the exhausts. That way you're 
working with the same set of gauges.

Dan

Sent from my iPad


On Jul 8, 2014, at 9:56 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

I would add that the gap will change as you tighten the jam nut.  So measure
the gap before you loosen it.  Guess at the required adjustment and do it
then retighten and measure.  After a few valves you'll get good at guessing
and dial each one in with only one or two attempts.  Also, I make a picture
of the valves and write down the before and after gaps for each valve.  That
way I don't miss any or double adjust any.  It's also interesting to see how
much adjustment was needed.  Also, wear plastic (like nitrile) gloves;
Diesel oil stains.
Scott


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Randy
Bennell
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 6:08 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] adjusting valves

I have been more than a bit negligent in terms of keeping the valves set
on my old 300D.
I bought the tools and the new gasket but have yet to do it.
I was thinking about it this past weekend and did a bit of searching
online.
The advice offered was pretty loose.
My past experience with gas engines required one to turn to the specific
timing marks etc.
The advice offered on the diesels seemed to be just to turn the cam so
that the point sticks up.
Is that considered close enough?
I have never disconnected the throttle linkage? I seem to recall someone
suggested one just pops them apart by prying with a screwdriver?
Is that correct? I really don't want to damage anything by my own lack
of knowledge on how to do it.

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-22 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

I used a drawing.
I also used 2 sets of feeler gauges and just adjusted whatever one was 
next up when I turned the cam.


I discovered 2 things that I hope to remember for next time.
The 2nd from the last valve - (exhaust on #5 I think) required that I 
use a different wrench. I have the special bent wrenches and they worked 
fine everywhere else but that one is too close to the cam support tower 
and the firewall so I used the bent wrench on the bottom nut and a 
normal wrench on the upper one but had to mess about to find a wrench 
that was the right length.
The other thing is that I want to find a different wrench to turn the 
power steering pump. I think, maybe a ratcheting boxend with a modified 
handle so it sticks up a bit higher. I still have bruises on both arms 
from my efforts to turn the cam.


Randy

On 22/07/2014 9:57 AM, LarryT via Mercedes wrote:
I put a dab of White-out on the valve stems as I adjust them. Once 
all have a white dot on all of them I'm done!  ;-)


LarryT
91 300D
78 240D

On 7/9/2014 12:35 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
I used to make a little map of the valves and cross them out as I did 
them. Made it easy to keep track of what I had done and kept me from 
missing one. I also did all the intakes at one time and then all the 
exhausts. That way you're working with the same set of gauges.


Dan





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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-16 Thread clay via Mercedes
I think that one went to his pay portal.

clay

On Jul 9, 2014, at 6:47 PM, Meade Dillon wrote:

 Kent Bergsma had a you tube video how to for valve adjustments that I
 can't find now.  He showed how the big nut should be turned until the
 largest gap is found, and then you adjust the gap to spec, and then double
 check by rotating that big nut around again.
 
 Max Dillon,
 Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-10 Thread Meade Dillon
Yes, that was why it caught my attention.  I think it was in the video of a
'79 300SD that he had tuned up by advancing the injection timing and I
think he also advanced the camshaft timing with an offset key.

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC

On Jul 10, 2014 12:08 AM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:


 Never heard of such a thing. In fact, the procedure is shown in manuals
 with a tool to hold the big nut still.

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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-10 Thread Rick Knoble
‎Sounds vaguely like this video. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFhaRefTRUMsns=em


Rick 
Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone


  Original Message  
From: Meade Dillon
Sent: Thursday, July 10, 2014 2:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Reply To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

Yes, that was why it caught my attention.  I think it was in the video of a
'79 300SD that he had tuned up by advancing the injection timing and I
think he also advanced the camshaft timing with an offset key.



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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-10 Thread Meade Dillon
Rick, thanks, that's the video I was thinking of.

I had the author wrong, and down in the comments is one from the author
about turning the valve spring retainer to adjust the valve clearance at
the TIGHTEST (?) point.  That didn't make sense to me, I would imagine that
the retainer would trend to find the most loose point and settle there.

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC

On Jul 10, 2014 4:59 AM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 ‎Sounds vaguely like this video.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PFhaRefTRUMsns=em


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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Randy Bennell
I have no real fear of doing it. It is a bit of a dirty job but I have 
become a nitrile glove believer so I should avoid getting black fingers 
if I am careful.
I have done valve adjustments on many vehicles over the years but never 
on the diesel. It no doubt has needed it for a long while and I hope to 
notice a difference.
One of the issues is hard starting once it starts to cool off in the 
fall and I believe that is an indication that the valves are likely too 
tight.


Randy

On 08/07/2014 7:45 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Randy,

I avoided this job for a long time having my Indy do it instead. I finally 
tackled it last summer on my '78 240D. I don't know what kept me all these 
years it was super easy. I think I followed the Diesel Giant procedure but 
they're all about the same: http://dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm

I kept note of the measurement and then what change I'd made.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz353/curtludwig/9784EDB2-F16D-466E-8C4E-1ABBEAA6A73E-187-0010168BCAFD_zpse8386f7e.jpg

  I was frankly amazed by how much quieter the engine was when I was done and I 
only did it with my normal set of wrenches although I did buy a nice big set of 
feeler gauges.

-Curt



  From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 6:08 PM
Subject: [MBZ] adjusting valves
  


I have been more than a bit negligent in terms of keeping the valves set
on my old 300D.
I bought the tools and the new gasket but have yet to do it.
I was thinking about it this past weekend and did a bit of searching online.
The advice offered was pretty loose.
My past experience with gas engines required one to turn to the specific
timing marks etc.
The advice offered on the diesels seemed to be just to turn the cam so
that the point sticks up.
Is that considered close enough?
I have never disconnected the throttle linkage? I seem to recall someone
suggested one just pops them apart by prying with a screwdriver?
Is that correct? I really don't want to damage anything by my own lack
of knowledge on how to do it.

Randy






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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Dan Penoff
I used to make a little map of the valves and cross them out as I did them. 
Made it easy to keep track of what I had done and kept me from missing one. I 
also did all the intakes at one time and then all the exhausts. That way you're 
working with the same set of gauges.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Jul 8, 2014, at 9:56 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
 I would add that the gap will change as you tighten the jam nut.  So measure
 the gap before you loosen it.  Guess at the required adjustment and do it
 then retighten and measure.  After a few valves you'll get good at guessing
 and dial each one in with only one or two attempts.  Also, I make a picture
 of the valves and write down the before and after gaps for each valve.  That
 way I don't miss any or double adjust any.  It's also interesting to see how
 much adjustment was needed.  Also, wear plastic (like nitrile) gloves;
 Diesel oil stains.
 Scott
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Randy
 Bennell
 Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 6:08 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
 I have been more than a bit negligent in terms of keeping the valves set
 on my old 300D.
 I bought the tools and the new gasket but have yet to do it.
 I was thinking about it this past weekend and did a bit of searching
 online.
 The advice offered was pretty loose.
 My past experience with gas engines required one to turn to the specific
 timing marks etc.
 The advice offered on the diesels seemed to be just to turn the cam so
 that the point sticks up.
 Is that considered close enough?
 I have never disconnected the throttle linkage? I seem to recall someone
 suggested one just pops them apart by prying with a screwdriver?
 Is that correct? I really don't want to damage anything by my own lack
 of knowledge on how to do it.
 
 Randy
 
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 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Scott Ritchey
I don't recall if it's been mentioned but (1) always turn the crank shaft in
the direction of normal rotation and (2) it's easiest to turn the crank
shaft by turning the power steering pump nut (vs the actual crank shaft
nut).  This should work if the belt tension is correct.  While you are
there, check chain stretch by aligning the marks on the cam tower and
sprocket and reading the number on the timing pulley in the crankshaft.  Do
it several times to get a reliable number.
Scott

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dan
 Penoff
 Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 12:35 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
 I used to make a little map of the valves and cross them out as I did
 them. Made it easy to keep track of what I had done and kept me from
 missing one. I also did all the intakes at one time and then all the
 exhausts. That way you're working with the same set of gauges.
 
 Dan
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
  On Jul 8, 2014, at 9:56 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
  I would add that the gap will change as you tighten the jam nut.  So
 measure
  the gap before you loosen it.  Guess at the required adjustment and do
 it
  then retighten and measure.  After a few valves you'll get good at
 guessing
  and dial each one in with only one or two attempts.  Also, I make a
 picture
  of the valves and write down the before and after gaps for each valve.
 That
  way I don't miss any or double adjust any.  It's also interesting to see
 how
  much adjustment was needed.  Also, wear plastic (like nitrile) gloves;
  Diesel oil stains.
  Scott
 
  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
 Randy
  Bennell
  Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 6:08 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
  I have been more than a bit negligent in terms of keeping the valves
 set
  on my old 300D.
  I bought the tools and the new gasket but have yet to do it.
  I was thinking about it this past weekend and did a bit of searching
  online.
  The advice offered was pretty loose.
  My past experience with gas engines required one to turn to the
 specific
  timing marks etc.
  The advice offered on the diesels seemed to be just to turn the cam so
  that the point sticks up.
  Is that considered close enough?
  I have never disconnected the throttle linkage? I seem to recall
 someone
  suggested one just pops them apart by prying with a screwdriver?
  Is that correct? I really don't want to damage anything by my own lack
  of knowledge on how to do it.
 
  Randy
 
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  individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list
 owner
  has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
 
 
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 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
 
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 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.


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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
It helps to have a clicker as well.  I used to adjust the valves on my 123
wagons at MBCA tech sessions, under supervision of course.


On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 1:16 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 I don't recall if it's been mentioned but (1) always turn the crank shaft
 in
 the direction of normal rotation and (2) it's easiest to turn the crank
 shaft by turning the power steering pump nut (vs the actual crank shaft
 nut).  This should work if the belt tension is correct.  While you are
 there, check chain stretch by aligning the marks on the cam tower and
 sprocket and reading the number on the timing pulley in the crankshaft.  Do
 it several times to get a reliable number.
 Scott

  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dan
  Penoff
  Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 12:35 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
  I used to make a little map of the valves and cross them out as I did
  them. Made it easy to keep track of what I had done and kept me from
  missing one. I also did all the intakes at one time and then all the
  exhausts. That way you're working with the same set of gauges.
 
  Dan
 
  Sent from my iPad
 
   On Jul 8, 2014, at 9:56 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
 wrote:
  
   I would add that the gap will change as you tighten the jam nut.  So
  measure
   the gap before you loosen it.  Guess at the required adjustment and do
  it
   then retighten and measure.  After a few valves you'll get good at
  guessing
   and dial each one in with only one or two attempts.  Also, I make a
  picture
   of the valves and write down the before and after gaps for each valve.
  That
   way I don't miss any or double adjust any.  It's also interesting to
 see
  how
   much adjustment was needed.  Also, wear plastic (like nitrile) gloves;
   Diesel oil stains.
   Scott
  
   -Original Message-
   From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
  Randy
   Bennell
   Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 6:08 PM
   To: Mercedes Discussion List
   Subject: [MBZ] adjusting valves
  
   I have been more than a bit negligent in terms of keeping the valves
  set
   on my old 300D.
   I bought the tools and the new gasket but have yet to do it.
   I was thinking about it this past weekend and did a bit of searching
   online.
   The advice offered was pretty loose.
   My past experience with gas engines required one to turn to the
  specific
   timing marks etc.
   The advice offered on the diesels seemed to be just to turn the cam so
   that the point sticks up.
   Is that considered close enough?
   I have never disconnected the throttle linkage? I seem to recall
  someone
   suggested one just pops them apart by prying with a screwdriver?
   Is that correct? I really don't want to damage anything by my own lack
   of knowledge on how to do it.
  
   Randy
  
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  owner
   has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
  
  
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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Scott Ritchey
Clicker?

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
 Strasfogel
 Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 3:05 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
 It helps to have a clicker as well.  I used to adjust the valves on my 123
 wagons at MBCA tech sessions, under supervision of course.
 
 
 On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 1:16 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
  I don't recall if it's been mentioned but (1) always turn the crank
 shaft
  in
  the direction of normal rotation and (2) it's easiest to turn the crank
  shaft by turning the power steering pump nut (vs the actual crank shaft
  nut).  This should work if the belt tension is correct.  While you are
  there, check chain stretch by aligning the marks on the cam tower and
  sprocket and reading the number on the timing pulley in the crankshaft.
 Do
  it several times to get a reliable number.
  Scott
 


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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
Yeah.  It's the remote starter you hook up to turn the engine to align
properly when you've finished adjusting each valve.

Andrew
DIesel emeritus


On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:18 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 Clicker?

  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
 Andrew
  Strasfogel
  Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 3:05 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
  It helps to have a clicker as well.  I used to adjust the valves on my
 123
  wagons at MBCA tech sessions, under supervision of course.
 
 
  On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 1:16 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
 wrote:
 
   I don't recall if it's been mentioned but (1) always turn the crank
  shaft
   in
   the direction of normal rotation and (2) it's easiest to turn the crank
   shaft by turning the power steering pump nut (vs the actual crank shaft
   nut).  This should work if the belt tension is correct.  While you are
   there, check chain stretch by aligning the marks on the cam tower and
   sprocket and reading the number on the timing pulley in the crankshaft.
  Do
   it several times to get a reliable number.
   Scott
  


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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Scott Ritchey
Oh.  I can position the cam shaft faster and more precisely by slowly
turning the PS pump pulley with a socket wrench.  In my experience, it's
hard to get the crank exactly where you want it with the starter because of
piston compression and starter overshoot.

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
 Strasfogel
 Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 3:25 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
 Yeah.  It's the remote starter you hook up to turn the engine to align
 properly when you've finished adjusting each valve.
 
 Andrew
 DIesel emeritus
 
 
 On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:18 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
  Clicker?
 
   -Original Message-
   From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
  Andrew
   Strasfogel
   Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 3:05 PM
   To: Mercedes Discussion List
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
  
   It helps to have a clicker as well.  I used to adjust the valves on my
  123
   wagons at MBCA tech sessions, under supervision of course.
  
  
   On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 1:16 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
  wrote:
  
I don't recall if it's been mentioned but (1) always turn the crank
   shaft
in
the direction of normal rotation and (2) it's easiest to turn the
 crank
shaft by turning the power steering pump nut (vs the actual crank
 shaft
nut).  This should work if the belt tension is correct.  While you
 are
there, check chain stretch by aligning the marks on the cam tower
 and
sprocket and reading the number on the timing pulley in the
 crankshaft.
   Do
it several times to get a reliable number.
Scott
   
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
That requires way too much effort IMO.


On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:31 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 Oh.  I can position the cam shaft faster and more precisely by slowly
 turning the PS pump pulley with a socket wrench.  In my experience, it's
 hard to get the crank exactly where you want it with the starter because of
 piston compression and starter overshoot.

  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
 Andrew
  Strasfogel
  Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 3:25 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
  Yeah.  It's the remote starter you hook up to turn the engine to align
  properly when you've finished adjusting each valve.
 
  Andrew
  DIesel emeritus
 
 
  On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:18 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
 wrote:
 
   Clicker?
  
-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
   Andrew
Strasfogel
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 3:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
   
It helps to have a clicker as well.  I used to adjust the valves on
 my
   123
wagons at MBCA tech sessions, under supervision of course.
   
   
On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 1:16 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
   wrote:
   
 I don't recall if it's been mentioned but (1) always turn the crank
shaft
 in
 the direction of normal rotation and (2) it's easiest to turn the
  crank
 shaft by turning the power steering pump nut (vs the actual crank
  shaft
 nut).  This should work if the belt tension is correct.  While you
  are
 there, check chain stretch by aligning the marks on the cam tower
  and
 sprocket and reading the number on the timing pulley in the
  crankshaft.
Do
 it several times to get a reliable number.
 Scott

  
  
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 owner
   has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
  
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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Curt Raymond
Either you're making a strange joke or you're the strangest person I know. Its 
too much work to put a ratchet on the power steering pump? You only rotate the 
engine a little each time, how much work could it possibly be? Hooking up the 
remote starter is way more work.

-Curt



 From: Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Wednesday, July 9, 2014 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 

That requires way too much effort IMO.


On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:31 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 Oh.  I can position the cam shaft faster and more precisely by slowly
 turning the PS pump pulley with a socket wrench.  In my experience, it's
 hard to get the crank exactly where you want it with the starter because of
 piston compression and starter overshoot.

  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
 Andrew
  Strasfogel
  Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 3:25 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
  Yeah.  It's the remote starter you hook up to turn the engine to align
  properly when you've finished adjusting each valve.
 
  Andrew
  DIesel emeritus
 
 
  On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:18 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
 wrote:
 
   Clicker?
  
-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
   Andrew
Strasfogel
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 3:05 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
   
It helps to have a clicker as well.  I used to adjust the valves on
 my
   123
wagons at MBCA tech sessions, under supervision of course.
   
   
On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 1:16 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
   wrote:
   
 I don't recall if it's been mentioned but (1) always turn the crank
shaft
 in
 the direction of normal rotation and (2) it's easiest to turn the
  crank
 shaft by turning the power steering pump nut (vs the actual crank
  shaft
 nut).  This should work if the belt tension is correct.  While you
  are
 there, check chain stretch by aligning the marks on the cam tower
  and
 sprocket and reading the number on the timing pulley in the
  crankshaft.
Do
 it several times to get a reliable number.
 Scott

  
  
   ___
   http://www.okiebenz.com
  
   To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
   http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
  
   All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
   individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list
 owner
   has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.



  
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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Fred Moir
Y'mean the one that accidentally starts the engine if you don't have the STOP 
lever tied down?

Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.

 Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 15:25:07 -0400
 From: astrasfo...@gmail.com
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
 Yeah.  It's the remote starter you hook up to turn the engine to align
 properly when you've finished adjusting each valve.
 
 Andrew
 DIesel emeritus
 
 
 On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:18 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
  Clicker?
  
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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
That's the one!  Seriously, if the battery is disconnected there is nothing
to worry about,.  Right?


On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:54 PM, Fred Moir fredh.s...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Y'mean the one that accidentally starts the engine if you don't have the
 STOP lever tied down?

 Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.

  Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 15:25:07 -0400
  From: astrasfo...@gmail.com
  To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
  Yeah.  It's the remote starter you hook up to turn the engine to align
  properly when you've finished adjusting each valve.
 
  Andrew
  DIesel emeritus
 
 
  On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:18 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
 wrote:
 
   Clicker?

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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Rich Thomas
Then you have to turn it with the PS pump pulley nut.  Back to where we 
started...


--R


On 7/9/14 4:00 PM, Andrew Strasfogel wrote:

That's the one!  Seriously, if the battery is disconnected there is nothing
to worry about,.  Right?


On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:54 PM, Fred Moir fredh.s...@hotmail.com wrote:


Y'mean the one that accidentally starts the engine if you don't have the
STOP lever tied down?

Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.


Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 15:25:07 -0400
From: astrasfo...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

Yeah.  It's the remote starter you hook up to turn the engine to align
properly when you've finished adjusting each valve.

Andrew
DIesel emeritus


On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:18 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com

wrote:

Clicker?

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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Scott Ritchey
I think Andrew has been living too close to our Nation's Capitol for too
long.

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
 Strasfogel
 Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2014 4:00 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
 That's the one!  Seriously, if the battery is disconnected there is
 nothing
 to worry about,.  Right?
 
 
 On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:54 PM, Fred Moir fredh.s...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
  Y'mean the one that accidentally starts the engine if you don't have the
  STOP lever tied down?
 
  Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.
 
   Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 15:25:07 -0400
   From: astrasfo...@gmail.com
   To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
  
   Yeah.  It's the remote starter you hook up to turn the engine to align
   properly when you've finished adjusting each valve.
  
   Andrew
   DIesel emeritus
  
  
   On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:18 PM, Scott Ritchey ritche...@nc.rr.com
  wrote:
  
Clicker?
 


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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Fred Moir
Andrew, et al.Just call me Frodo.(3 fingers)

Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.

 Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 16:00:03 -0400
 From: astrasfo...@gmail.com
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
 That's the one!  Seriously, if the battery is disconnected there is nothing
 to worry about,.  Right?
 
 
 On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:54 PM, Fred Moir fredh.s...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
  Y'mean the one that accidentally starts the engine if you don't have the
  STOP lever tied down?
 
  Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.
  
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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
Ouch.


On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 4:38 PM, Fred Moir fredh.s...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Andrew, et al.Just call me Frodo.(3 fingers)

 Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.

  Date: Wed, 9 Jul 2014 16:00:03 -0400
  From: astrasfo...@gmail.com
  To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
  That's the one!  Seriously, if the battery is disconnected there is
 nothing
  to worry about,.  Right?
 
 
  On Wed, Jul 9, 2014 at 3:54 PM, Fred Moir fredh.s...@hotmail.com
 wrote:
 
   Y'mean the one that accidentally starts the engine if you don't have
 the
   STOP lever tied down?
  
   Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.

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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Rich Thomas

E:   All of the Above

--R


On 7/9/14 3:40 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Either you're making a strange joke or you're the strangest person I know.



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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Randy Bennell
If, it requires too much effort, then you need a wrench with a longer 
handle.


Randy

On 09/07/2014 2:40 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:

Either you're making a strange joke or you're the strangest person I know. Its 
too much work to put a ratchet on the power steering pump? You only rotate the 
engine a little each time, how much work could it possibly be? Hooking up the 
remote starter is way more work.

-Curt



  From: Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 9, 2014 3:37 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves
  


That requires way too much effort IMO.






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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Meade Dillon
Kent Bergsma had a you tube video how to for valve adjustments that I
can't find now.  He showed how the big nut should be turned until the
largest gap is found, and then you adjust the gap to spec, and then double
check by rotating that big nut around again.

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-09 Thread Craig
On Wed, 9 Jul 2014 21:47:27 -0400 Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Kent Bergsma had a you tube video how to for valve adjustments that I
 can't find now.  He showed how the big nut should be turned until the
 largest gap is found, and then you adjust the gap to spec, and then
 double check by rotating that big nut around again.

Never heard of such a thing. In fact, the procedure is shown in manuals
with a tool to hold the big nut still.


Craig

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[MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-08 Thread Randy Bennell
I have been more than a bit negligent in terms of keeping the valves set 
on my old 300D.

I bought the tools and the new gasket but have yet to do it.
I was thinking about it this past weekend and did a bit of searching online.
The advice offered was pretty loose.
My past experience with gas engines required one to turn to the specific 
timing marks etc.
The advice offered on the diesels seemed to be just to turn the cam so 
that the point sticks up.

Is that considered close enough?
I have never disconnected the throttle linkage? I seem to recall someone 
suggested one just pops them apart by prying with a screwdriver?
Is that correct? I really don't want to damage anything by my own lack 
of knowledge on how to do it.


Randy

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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-08 Thread Dan Penoff
If you're setting valves on a diesel, you want the cam lobe to be 180 degrees 
(opposite) the flat spot on the follower.  That's not necessarily straight 
up.  I eyeballed it for years and never had a problem.  Straight up is not 
usually 180 degrees out.

Dan


On Jul 8, 2014, at 6:08 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 I have been more than a bit negligent in terms of keeping the valves set on 
 my old 300D.
 I bought the tools and the new gasket but have yet to do it.
 I was thinking about it this past weekend and did a bit of searching online.
 The advice offered was pretty loose.
 My past experience with gas engines required one to turn to the specific 
 timing marks etc.
 The advice offered on the diesels seemed to be just to turn the cam so that 
 the point sticks up.
 Is that considered close enough?
 I have never disconnected the throttle linkage? I seem to recall someone 
 suggested one just pops them apart by prying with a screwdriver?
 Is that correct? I really don't want to damage anything by my own lack of 
 knowledge on how to do it.
 
 Randy
 
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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-08 Thread Curt Raymond
Randy,

I avoided this job for a long time having my Indy do it instead. I finally 
tackled it last summer on my '78 240D. I don't know what kept me all these 
years it was super easy. I think I followed the Diesel Giant procedure but 
they're all about the same: http://dieselgiant.com/valveadjustment.htm

I kept note of the measurement and then what change I'd made.
http://i843.photobucket.com/albums/zz353/curtludwig/9784EDB2-F16D-466E-8C4E-1ABBEAA6A73E-187-0010168BCAFD_zpse8386f7e.jpg

 I was frankly amazed by how much quieter the engine was when I was done and I 
only did it with my normal set of wrenches although I did buy a nice big set of 
feeler gauges.

-Curt



 From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 6:08 PM
Subject: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 

I have been more than a bit negligent in terms of keeping the valves set 
on my old 300D.
I bought the tools and the new gasket but have yet to do it.
I was thinking about it this past weekend and did a bit of searching online.
The advice offered was pretty loose.
My past experience with gas engines required one to turn to the specific 
timing marks etc.
The advice offered on the diesels seemed to be just to turn the cam so 
that the point sticks up.
Is that considered close enough?
I have never disconnected the throttle linkage? I seem to recall someone 
suggested one just pops them apart by prying with a screwdriver?
Is that correct? I really don't want to damage anything by my own lack 
of knowledge on how to do it.

Randy


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Re: [MBZ] adjusting valves

2014-07-08 Thread Scott Ritchey
I would add that the gap will change as you tighten the jam nut.  So measure
the gap before you loosen it.  Guess at the required adjustment and do it
then retighten and measure.  After a few valves you'll get good at guessing
and dial each one in with only one or two attempts.  Also, I make a picture
of the valves and write down the before and after gaps for each valve.  That
way I don't miss any or double adjust any.  It's also interesting to see how
much adjustment was needed.  Also, wear plastic (like nitrile) gloves;
Diesel oil stains.
Scott

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Randy
 Bennell
 Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 6:08 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: [MBZ] adjusting valves
 
 I have been more than a bit negligent in terms of keeping the valves set
 on my old 300D.
 I bought the tools and the new gasket but have yet to do it.
 I was thinking about it this past weekend and did a bit of searching
 online.
 The advice offered was pretty loose.
 My past experience with gas engines required one to turn to the specific
 timing marks etc.
 The advice offered on the diesels seemed to be just to turn the cam so
 that the point sticks up.
 Is that considered close enough?
 I have never disconnected the throttle linkage? I seem to recall someone
 suggested one just pops them apart by prying with a screwdriver?
 Is that correct? I really don't want to damage anything by my own lack
 of knowledge on how to do it.
 
 Randy
 
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.


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Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves - was: 240D success!

2013-07-14 Thread Fmiser
 Curt wrote:
 
 Today I tried adjusting the valves, I'll not try that again until
 I get a proper set of wrenches... 

I use normal flat wrenches - except I have one ground thinner.

 I found the intakes all slightly loose (0.13mm) except for one
 that was perfect.

Loose is good!  Too loose and it effects power, but too tight and
the engine will leak compression which has a bad effect on cold
starting.

 The exhausts were all slightly tight (0.25-0.28mm).

That's what normally happens.

 Considering the rough adjustment I was capable of I decided I'd
 loosen the tight exhaust valves and leave the loose intakes where
 they were, even then the adjustment took me right on 2 hours,
 most of that was farting around not knowing what I was doing.

Just for the valves?  Or including messing with the fuel feed
linkage?  The offset wrenches might help some, but it's still a
fiddly process as tightening the nuts _will_ change the size of the
gap.  Practice will help. *smiles*

-- Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Mitch Haley


John W. Reames III wrote:
 
 
 for intake, add 0.05mm for extended ambient temps below -20C

But if it's -10C when you adjust them, there's no reason to add
more clearance. You will have a bit more clearance at -10 than
at room temperature (+20C).



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread kevin kraly

But if it's -10C when you adjust them,

THE ENGINE AND THE WRENCHES ARE TERRIBLY COLD TO THE TOUCH!  bur! 
I'll be waiting until the temps climb a bit although it's probably 6oC or 
42oF here, balmy compared to much of the country right now.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 265k miles, Ursula 





Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Jim Cathey

Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather,
say 20 degrees F, or would it be a no,no?


No.  You won't enjoy it.  (Otherwise no problem.)

I recommend you plug in the block heater for a couple
of hours, your fingers will thank you.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 18:57:25 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

  Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather,
  say 20 degrees F, or would it be a no,no?
 
 No.  You won't enjoy it.  (Otherwise no problem.)
 
 I recommend you plug in the block heater for a couple
 of hours, your fingers will thank you.

Your fingers will thank you, but you'll have an undetermined temperature
thoughout the engine which will play havoc with the actual valve lashes
when the engine is entirely cold. The specs for adjustment assume the
entire engine is at 20 deg.C.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Werner Fehlauer
Why not simply run the engine, long enough for it to reach some uniform 
temperature, shut it down, and just as it cools enough to work on it safely, 
do the adjustment?  That should allow doing it above the freezing 
temperatures of the day, and also have some mercy on the fingers.  Of 
course, you would want to warm the tools beforehand, also!

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 11:46 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather



On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 18:57:25 -0800 Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:


 Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather,
 say 20 degrees F, or would it be a no,no?

No.  You won't enjoy it.  (Otherwise no problem.)

I recommend you plug in the block heater for a couple
of hours, your fingers will thank you.


Your fingers will thank you, but you'll have an undetermined temperature
thoughout the engine which will play havoc with the actual valve lashes
when the engine is entirely cold. The specs for adjustment assume the
entire engine is at 20 deg.C.


Craig





Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 1/18/2007 3:31:21 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Would it  be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather, say 20 
degrees F,  or would it be a no,no?
I have not done the valves in 2 yrs and I don't  have a heated garage.



Absolutely ok.  The colder it is when you adjust them, the less likely  it is 
that they will be held open during a colder day.  The clearances when  
normalized will be slightly looser but that improves low end torque, with  only 
slightly noisier valve clatter.  
 
Regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 147 K  miles



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Craig McCluskey
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 23:54:51 -0500 Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:

 Why not simply run the engine, long enough for it to reach some uniform 
 temperature, shut it down, and just as it cools enough to work on it
 safely,  do the adjustment?

Because that will have even worse temperature changes as you're adjusting
the valves. You need to adjust the valves with the engine at ambient
temperature so everything starts and finishes at the same temperature.


Craig



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread jwreames
I've gotten really huge latex gloves and put them on over knit garden gloves 
before, it doesn't kill your dexterity as much (and it is not like you need 
TONS of it for a valve adjustment)

I hear you kicking and screaming over bending overin the cold. Insulated 
coveralls help a bit, but I am still suffering from my jaunt on the ground 
yesterday; Hans had an 8mm coolant line pop out of a clip and rub itself to 
death on the intercooler... To get at the line entailed removing the bumper (4 
bolts, thankfully!).. I just used a 5/16 compression union on it, seems to be 
holding fine..

BTW i found out that I have weeping from between the nuts and the pipe on my 
oil cooler lines, Thankfully the OM606 has 4 lines; two hoses from the engine 
to the body hard lines, then the two body hard lines down to the aluminium 
radiator. Unfortunately it is the body hard lines that have the weep, so it 
looks like headlight removal time and probably dremel time (split the nuts 
and they will hopefully unscrew... but they might not be siezed either.  It 
will be decidely easier to get at the cooler with the bumper off. I'm hoping 
that the radiator is not leaking as well.

Does anyone know how much oil the lines and radiator hold? (210.025/OM606.96x)  
I'm guessing about 2 qt.

I also found that the bolts securing the sway bar to the chassis tend to round 
off (#[EMAIL PROTECTED] E-10 heads) and were up-reved to Hex heads. I'm hoping 
that Craftsman external ez-out sockets will get a good bite on the now round 
heads and spin them right out.  

Additionally, on the stuck lug nut, I found that my locak dealership has a guy 
who is good enough with a plasma cutter to just blow the bolt out of the hole 
(!). Talk about big chrome-plated cast-iron cojones!

Fun,Fun.

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K Gerta)
1991 Cherokee (149K the fishbowl)
1999 E300Dt (140K Hans) (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K Frantz) (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Roger Conlon [EMAIL PROTECTED] 

 Thanks all who responded to my question. 
 It did cross my mind to leave the block heater plugged 
 in all night and while I was working on it. 
 
 I thought by then the engine temp should even out. 
 
 As far as the cold temp as long as I get out of the wind it's 
 really not that bad, and after the fingers get that fat numb feeling. 
 Right Lt. Don. Where has he been lately or have I just missed his postings? 
 
 I think it bothers my back more in the cold from leaning over tho. 
 
 _ 
 Type your favorite song. Get a customized station. Try MSN Radio powered 
 by Pandora. http://radio.msn.com/?icid=T002MSN03A07001 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Marshall Booth

Werner Fehlauer wrote:
Why not simply run the engine, long enough for it to reach some uniform 
temperature, shut it down, and just as it cools enough to work on it safely, 
do the adjustment?  That should allow doing it above the freezing 
temperatures of the day, and also have some mercy on the fingers.  Of 
course, you would want to warm the tools beforehand, also!


For the engine to be at a uniform temperature throughout, the engine 
must not have been run for 6-8 hours (not even for a minute or two). 
Unless the engine temperature is uniform, valve adjustment will be 
uneven. Once shut down, the front, center and back of the engine cool at 
different rates. Using the block heater would not be particularly 
desirable either but not as bad as running the engine.


What is required for reliable cold starting is that there be SOME valve 
clearance at the coldest temperatures expected (clearance decreases as 
the temperature drops because the valves and the head have different 
temperature coefficients). The precise clearance is not nearly as 
critical as sufficient clearance for reliable cold starting. Uniform and 
correct clearances are required for the engine to run most smoothly.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread John Robbins

Werner Fehlauer wrote:
Why not simply run the engine, long enough for it to reach some uniform 
temperature, shut it down, and just as it cools enough to work on it safely, 
do the adjustment?  That should allow doing it above the freezing 
temperatures of the day, and also have some mercy on the fingers.  Of 
course, you would want to warm the tools beforehand, also!

Werner
  
Wouldn't that be to wait for operating temperature?  If its somewhere 
inbetween different things could still be at different temperatures 
(heck, thats prolly true even at operating temp).


The plate on my car says if above a certain temp use xx values or if its 
below that temp use... etc.  (I don't remember the values or temp, but 
know that I've always needed the 'cold' ones).  IMO, its been two years 
since the valve adjustment was done  the little itty bitty 
differences in tolerance from the super cold temperatures are most 
likely insignificant compared to how out of clearance they are now.   
Besides, its not like they'll never be out of adjustment again ;)


Warming tools...  I'm going to have to try that one!  :)  Any spiffy 
warming method or do you just keep them inside? 


John
'79 300SD



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread Marshall Booth

John Robbins wrote:


The plate on my car says if above a certain temp use xx values or if its 
below that temp use... etc.  (I don't remember the values or temp, but 
know that I've always needed the 'cold' ones).  IMO, its been two years 
since the valve adjustment was done  the little itty bitty 
differences in tolerance from the super cold temperatures are most 
likely insignificant compared to how out of clearance they are now.   
Besides, its not like they'll never be out of adjustment again ;)


Unless you are much faster at adjusting valve than I am, the warm values 
ALWAYS result in unreliable valve adjustment since the engine is cooling 
while you are adjusting the valves. For a uniform valve adjustment the 
engine must not have been run for 6-8 hours!! Even really experienced 
mechanics can't do as good a job using the warm values (no matter what 
they claim).


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-19 Thread jwreames
Thanks. I noticed a decided difference in engine running between stone cold 
(overnight sit) versus warm adjustments. I always wondered why, or if it was 
something that I was doing wrong. I've gotten to where I can adjust them on the 
street in 30 mins (It has gotten a question or three from the neighbors, but 
they have grown to accept it.)

-j.
--
John Reames
1985 300d (223K Gerta)
1991 Cherokee (149K the fishbowl)
1999 E300Dt (140K Hans) (the leaky one)
1999 E300Dt (106K Frantz) (the squeaky one)

-- Original message -- 
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 Unless you are much faster at adjusting valve than I am, the warm values 
 ALWAYS result in unreliable valve adjustment since the engine is cooling 
 while you are adjusting the valves. For a uniform valve adjustment the 
 engine must not have been run for 6-8 hours!! Even really experienced 
 mechanics can't do as good a job using the warm values (no matter what 
 they claim). 
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Fri Jan 19 16:14:41 2007
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Governer question - injection charge profile
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Peter Merle wrote:
 To ask a furthur question - what shapes the maximum injection stoke
 volume vs rpm at these pumps. As I understand it compensation for
 volumetric efficiency vs rpm needs to be taken account so that at low
 speed and at hig speed the maximum injection charge is lower than at mid
 range rpm due to rereduced volumetric efficeincy.  
   
Let me make sure I understand what you're asking real quick.   :)  On 
the volumetric efficiency vs RPM are you talking about the amount of 
available air for combustion inside the cylinder based on RPM (things 
like boost and/or losses changing that over the RPM band)?


If thats the case, then the amount of injected fuel (injection charge?) 
does have different limits across the RPM range.  The reason for it is 
that if you start injecting too much fuel you will start generating 
clouds of black smoke (partially burned fuel).  I have a graph in a 
Bosch tech book that shows the max injected volume vs RPM and it does do 
what you describe.  I can post that if you would like that extra 
verification :)


As to HOW thats done that is where the complicated part (IMO) of our 
governors come into play.  In the governor used on the MW pumps I 
believe it is called torque control.   There are very few people who 
truly understand exactly how it works (and how to change it), and I am 
certainly NOT one of them. 


If you are interested in learning more about how IPs work I'd highly 
suggest this book It talks about all kinds of IPs and how the 
governors work, etc.  As well as a fairly detailed overview of diesel 
combustion, etc.  I sure enjoyed reading it and learned a lot :)


http://www.boschtechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=product.searchkeyword=1%20987%20723%20602


John
'79 300SD








[MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-18 Thread Roger Conlon
Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather, say 20 
degrees F, or would it be a no,no?

I have not done the valves in 2 yrs and I don't have a heated garage.

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Re: [MBZ] Adjusting valves in cold weather

2007-01-18 Thread John W. Reames III
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007, Roger Conlon wrote:

 Would it be OK to adjust the valves on a 85 300D in cold weather, say 20 
 degrees F, or would it be a no,no?
 I have not done the valves in 2 yrs and I don't have a heated garage.


Intake is [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Exhaust for NA is [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Exhaust for Turbo is [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]

for intake, add 0.05mm for extended ambient temps below -20C

-j.