Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch removal

2016-11-12 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Now I recall what I did:

HF has a fan clutch or timing belt “kit” that has a piece that is long and 
flat, maybe 1-1/2” wide, 1/8” thick and 24” long with a plastidip handle on one 
end and a 3/8” square socket driver on the other.  With that I was able to use 
my regular 3/8” drive hex bit and fit it in there.

Dan

> On Nov 12, 2016, at 6:31 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:
> 
> I think I just bought a set at HF.  If it’s for the center bolt on the fan 
> clutch, I just used a regular hex wrench with a long extension over the end 
> to get leverage.  With the fan clutch pulley locked in place with the locking 
> tool it comes right off.
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
>> On Nov 12, 2016, at 6:24 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> I need to replace the water pump on a 606 and can't seem to locate my stubby 
>> hex socket set. I was going to get another set at the flaps but remember Dan 
>> or somebody had ordered one somewhere. What did you order?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch removal

2016-11-12 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
Sometimes it's good to have a tight quarters ratcheting driver. 

I bought this wrench for my S420 oil pan job last month:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-Microdriver-Set-16-Piece-HRWMD16PCSAE/202934673

Would have greatly preferred this, but it wasn't available in store the day I
needed it:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/GearWrench-1-4-in-Drive-Micro-Driver-Set-35-Piece-85035/204621228

My Husky has a very rough ratchet on the 1/4" side. There's nothing more
annoying than a close quarters ratchet that doesn't ratchet, just turns the
screw back and forth, even if you get your other hand in there and put some
light pressure on the fastener.

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch removal

2016-11-12 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
I think I just bought a set at HF.  If it’s for the center bolt on the fan 
clutch, I just used a regular hex wrench with a long extension over the end to 
get leverage.  With the fan clutch pulley locked in place with the locking tool 
it comes right off.

Dan


> On Nov 12, 2016, at 6:24 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need to replace the water pump on a 606 and can't seem to locate my stubby 
> hex socket set. I was going to get another set at the flaps but remember Dan 
> or somebody had ordered one somewhere. What did you order?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch, almost final

2015-11-26 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
The fan clutch performed well enough for the 1300 
mile trip.  I have not tested it yet when warm by 
trying to stop the fan, but there was no 
overheating.  Much Improvement.  I maybe should 
have used the recommended 36cc, but the 18cc made 
it functional.


Temps up into the low 70s.  It may need more oil 
to handle  100º fresh blacktop.  Sufficient for a 
winter car, and that is all it has been.



Well, any results yet?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On November 21, 2015 7:17:47 PM EST, Curly 
McLain via Mercedes  
wrote:

Finally got the oil in the fan clutch.


Final report after I get to drive it around and make sure it keeps its
cool!



  > Curly wrote:
  >
  > Uh Oh!  I just found out the toada stuff is 3000 cst, not

  10,000cst, but if you put enough in, it will work.


A quick search found these links.  I have no idea if this is
what you need, or if it is the quantity you need.

60ml for $4.12
http://www.hobbypartz.com/17p-10020.html

100 ml for $20
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUDY-Ultimate-Silicone-Shock-Damper-Oil-3000-cSt-100ML-RC-Car-HSP-106431-/131007064255

4 oz [118 ml] $6.80
http://www.bonesmotorsports.com/Bones-Motorsports-3000-cst-Diff-Oil_p_61.html

2 oz [59 ml] $6.50, free shipping
www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Factory-Silicone-Differential/dp/B000SLOW6E/


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch, almost final

2015-11-24 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
Well, any results yet?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On November 21, 2015 7:17:47 PM EST, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:
>Finally got the oil in the fan clutch.
>
>
>Final report after I get to drive it around and make sure it keeps its
>cool!
>
>
>>  > Curly wrote:
>>  >
>>  > Uh Oh!  I just found out the toada stuff is 3000 cst, not
>>>  10,000cst, but if you put enough in, it will work.
>>
>>A quick search found these links.  I have no idea if this is
>>what you need, or if it is the quantity you need.
>>
>>60ml for $4.12
>>http://www.hobbypartz.com/17p-10020.html
>>
>>100 ml for $20
>>http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUDY-Ultimate-Silicone-Shock-Damper-Oil-3000-cSt-100ML-RC-Car-HSP-106431-/131007064255
>>
>>4 oz [118 ml] $6.80
>>http://www.bonesmotorsports.com/Bones-Motorsports-3000-cst-Diff-Oil_p_61.html
>>
>>2 oz [59 ml] $6.50, free shipping
>>www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Factory-Silicone-Differential/dp/B000SLOW6E/
>
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch, almost final

2015-11-21 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

Finally got the oil in the fan clutch.

I followed this instruction after wasting time and torch with the 
method of trying to get it in where the pin goes behind the bimetal 
thermostat.


http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1583106-ml-320-fan-clutch-repair.html

I drilled a 3/16 hole.  Got a 12cc syringe, sans needle from the 
pharmacy, sanded down the end a little to fit the 3/16 hole, put in 
8cc, shot it in.  Put in 10cc and shot that in.  it was starting to 
air bubble out of the hole the pin goes in, so I figured it probably 
had enough.  I plugged the hole with a #10 x 3/8 sheet metal screw, 
with a drop of red loctite, because that was what I had.


Have not been able to test it yet.  The car fired right up, but now 
acts like it is starved for fuel, so it is plugged in.  It was fine 
before everything froze.  Either bad fuel or water frozen somewhere 
(bad fuel)


Final report after I get to drive it around and make sure it keeps its cool!



 > Curly wrote:
 >
 > Uh Oh!  I just found out the toada stuff is 3000 cst, not

 10,000cst, but if you put enough in, it will work.


A quick search found these links.  I have no idea if this is
what you need, or if it is the quantity you need.

60ml for $4.12
http://www.hobbypartz.com/17p-10020.html

100 ml for $20
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUDY-Ultimate-Silicone-Shock-Damper-Oil-3000-cSt-100ML-RC-Car-HSP-106431-/131007064255

4 oz [118 ml] $6.80
http://www.bonesmotorsports.com/Bones-Motorsports-3000-cst-Diff-Oil_p_61.html

2 oz [59 ml] $6.50, free shipping
www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Factory-Silicone-Differential/dp/B000SLOW6E/


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2015-11-18 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes

The oil I bought was about $40 for a gallon, shipped.
I sold off pints to this (?) list, until I only had
my pint left.  Mine turned out to be free!  :-)

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2015-11-18 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

Dan,

Thanks for the RC Truck tip.

here is a 2 oz bottle on fleabay for under $7 shipped.  It would be 
$90 at the toada stealership to get this

much.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Associated-5455-Silicone-Differential-Diff-Fluid-1-cst-10-000-/391307317659?hash=item5b1bbbd19b:g:3YYAAOSwl9BWM0oQ

A search for 5455 Diff fluid on fleabay turns up the bottles.

I ordered 2.  That made each bottle just over $5 each.

Patience...but I found 3 hobby shops that might have the stuff 
locally,  12 mi west and 10 mi east.  I'll try them tomorrow.


The Toada stuff is pricey, which is why I got mine at a local hobby 
shop that specializes in RC trucks.  Apparently, they use the stuff 
in their gear trains on the trucks.  I still have the bottle in the 
package, as I never got the fan clutch off the car.  I paid $6.99 
for it about a year and a half ago.


Not having gone through with the drain and refill I can't say much 
more than this.  I know it's time consuming because the stuff is so 
thick.


Dan


 On Nov 17, 2015, at 9:53 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:


 No oil, no fan, not cool!

 Toada stealer didn't have the oil.  They ordered a bottle.  $22.50 
for what Dan said was $6!  (the porch writeup says it takes 2 
bottles!)  I sure hope it is a bigger bottle!


 Hobby shop did not have any.  They had 1/2 oz bottles of what is 
probably M1 for $9


 I checked several auto parts shops.  None could crossover the 
toada number.  None have the oil


 Working on the (126) aux fan later, I found the female part of the 
2 pin connector that resides around the A/C receiver/dryer had one 
pin socket broken out.  Open circuit. no fan.  I ended up cutting 
out the plug ends and splicing in the wires.  This is the heap, so 
quick and dirty wins over doing it right.



 I have a bottle in the shop, I'll look at the details.  I think 
it's 10,000W oil, believe it or not.  A little bottle at a local 
hobby shop that sells stuff for RC cars and trucks had it fr like 
$6.00.


 Dan


 On Nov 17, 2015, at 12:33 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:


 Some time ago there was a discussion of oil spec. and viscosity 
for the fan clutch.  I suspect the fan on my 126 need an oil 
change and fill.


 Does anyone have the spec and amount for the oil?

 Answered my own Q!

 Ah! here is the article  http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/page13.html

 1cst silicone oil.

 >
 > Source: Toada stealer:  Toada silicone oil, part number 
08816-03001-get 2 bottles

 >


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2015-11-17 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
I have a bottle in the shop, I’ll look at the details.  I think it’s 10,000W 
oil, believe it or not.  A little bottle at a local hobby shop that sells stuff 
for RC cars and trucks had it fr like $6.00.

Dan


> On Nov 17, 2015, at 12:33 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Some time ago there was a discussion of oil spec. and viscosity for the fan 
> clutch.  I suspect the fan on my 126 need an oil change and fill.
> 
> Does anyone have the spec and amount for the oil?
> 
> Answered my own Q!
> 
> Ah! here is the article  http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/page13.html
> 
> 1cst silicone oil.
> 
> Source: Toada stealer:  Toada silicone oil, part number 08816-03001-get 2 
> bottles
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2015-11-17 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes

I once bought a gallon of 12,500 centistoke silicone oil,
and parceled out pints for clutch experimentation.  I kept
one for myself.  Used some, once.  Toyota has 3000, 4000,
and 1 cst, supposedly.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2015-11-17 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
It is 10,000 centistoke.   80 weight oil is around 25 cst, but it is 
a non-linear relationship.  I'd guess it is around 200 weight by api 
grade.



I have a bottle in the shop, I'll look at the details.  I think it's 
10,000W oil, believe it or not.  A little bottle at a local hobby 
shop that sells stuff for RC cars and trucks had it fr like $6.00.


Dan


 On Nov 17, 2015, at 12:33 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:


 Some time ago there was a discussion of oil spec. and viscosity 
for the fan clutch.  I suspect the fan on my 126 need an oil change 
and fill.


 Does anyone have the spec and amount for the oil?

 Answered my own Q!

 Ah! here is the article  http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/page13.html

 1cst silicone oil.

 > Source: Toada stealer:  Toada silicone oil, part number 
08816-03001-get 2 bottles

 >


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2015-11-17 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

No oil, no fan, not cool!

Toada stealer didn't have the oil.  They ordered a bottle.  $22.50 
for what Dan said was $6!  (the porch writeup says it takes 2 
bottles!)  I sure hope it is a bigger bottle!


Hobby shop did not have any.  They had 1/2 oz bottles of what is 
probably M1 for $9


I checked several auto parts shops.  None could crossover the toada 
number.  None have the oil


Working on the (126) aux fan later, I found the female part of the 2 
pin connector that resides around the A/C receiver/dryer had one pin 
socket broken out.  Open circuit. no fan.  I ended up cutting out the 
plug ends and splicing in the wires.  This is the heap, so quick and 
dirty wins over doing it right.



I have a bottle in the shop, I'll look at the details.  I think it's 
10,000W oil, believe it or not.  A little bottle at a local hobby 
shop that sells stuff for RC cars and trucks had it fr like $6.00.


Dan


 On Nov 17, 2015, at 12:33 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:


 Some time ago there was a discussion of oil spec. and viscosity 
for the fan clutch.  I suspect the fan on my 126 need an oil change 
and fill.


 Does anyone have the spec and amount for the oil?

 Answered my own Q!

 Ah! here is the article  http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/page13.html

 1cst silicone oil.

 >
 > Source: Toada stealer:  Toada silicone oil, part number 
08816-03001-get 2 bottles

 >


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2015-11-17 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
The Toada stuff is pricey, which is why I got mine at a local hobby shop that 
specializes in RC trucks.  Apparently, they use the stuff in their gear trains 
on the trucks.  I still have the bottle in the package, as I never got the fan 
clutch off the car.  I paid $6.99 for it about a year and a half ago.

Not having gone through with the drain and refill I can’t say much more than 
this.  I know it’s time consuming because the stuff is so thick.

Dan


> On Nov 17, 2015, at 9:53 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> No oil, no fan, not cool!
> 
> Toada stealer didn't have the oil.  They ordered a bottle.  $22.50 for what 
> Dan said was $6!  (the porch writeup says it takes 2 bottles!)  I sure hope 
> it is a bigger bottle!
> 
> Hobby shop did not have any.  They had 1/2 oz bottles of what is probably M1 
> for $9
> 
> I checked several auto parts shops.  None could crossover the toada number.  
> None have the oil
> 
> Working on the (126) aux fan later, I found the female part of the 2 pin 
> connector that resides around the A/C receiver/dryer had one pin socket 
> broken out.  Open circuit. no fan.  I ended up cutting out the plug ends and 
> splicing in the wires.  This is the heap, so quick and dirty wins over doing 
> it right.
> 
> 
>> I have a bottle in the shop, I'll look at the details.  I think it's 10,000W 
>> oil, believe it or not.  A little bottle at a local hobby shop that sells 
>> stuff for RC cars and trucks had it fr like $6.00.
>> 
>> Dan
>> 
>> 
>>> On Nov 17, 2015, at 12:33 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Some time ago there was a discussion of oil spec. and viscosity for the fan 
>>> clutch.  I suspect the fan on my 126 need an oil change and fill.
>>> 
>>> Does anyone have the spec and amount for the oil?
>>> 
>>> Answered my own Q!
>>> 
>>> Ah! here is the article  http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/page13.html
>>> 
>>> 1cst silicone oil.
>> >
>> > Source: Toada stealer:  Toada silicone oil, part number 08816-03001-get 2 
>> > bottles
>> >
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2015-11-17 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
Yeah PRICEY for sure!  $22.50 for a 1/2 oz. bottle.  That is $5760 a 
galllon!The stealer could not tell me how much was in the bottle. 
I was thinking 8 oz for the price, but I found it online tonight!  18 
ml or about 1/2 oz.


But if it makes the fan run, it is a lot less than a new clutch, post 
Q.  I bought one 8 or 10 years ago from Q for the first SDL.  That 
one I think was about $130, but I heard now they are over $200.


Anyone know if Lobby Hobby sells RC trucks and the oil?  Other than 
online, I don't know anyplace to buy stuff for RC trucks.




The Toada stuff is pricey, which is why I got mine at a local hobby 
shop that specializes in RC trucks.  Apparently, they use the stuff 
in their gear trains on the trucks.  I still have the bottle in the 
package, as I never got the fan clutch off the car.  I paid $6.99 
for it about a year and a half ago.


Not having gone through with the drain and refill I can't say much 
more than this.  I know it's time consuming because the stuff is so 
thick.


Dan


 On Nov 17, 2015, at 9:53 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:


 No oil, no fan, not cool!

 Toada stealer didn't have the oil.  They ordered a bottle.  $22.50 
for what Dan said was $6!  (the porch writeup says it takes 2 
bottles!)  I sure hope it is a bigger bottle!


 Hobby shop did not have any.  They had 1/2 oz bottles of what is 
probably M1 for $9


 I checked several auto parts shops.  None could crossover the 
toada number.  None have the oil


 Working on the (126) aux fan later, I found the female part of the 
2 pin connector that resides around the A/C receiver/dryer had one 
pin socket broken out.  Open circuit. no fan.  I ended up cutting 
out the plug ends and splicing in the wires.  This is the heap, so 
quick and dirty wins over doing it right.



 I have a bottle in the shop, I'll look at the details.  I think 
it's 10,000W oil, believe it or not.  A little bottle at a local 
hobby shop that sells stuff for RC cars and trucks had it fr like 
$6.00.


 Dan


 On Nov 17, 2015, at 12:33 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:


 Some time ago there was a discussion of oil spec. and viscosity 
for the fan clutch.  I suspect the fan on my 126 need an oil 
change and fill.


 Does anyone have the spec and amount for the oil?

 Answered my own Q!

 Ah! here is the article  http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/page13.html

 1cst silicone oil.

 >
 > Source: Toada stealer:  Toada silicone oil, part number 
08816-03001-get 2 bottles

 >> >


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2015-11-17 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
Uh Oh!  I just found out the toada stuff is 3000 cst, not 10,000cst, 
but if you put enough in, it will work.


Here's what I found:

"The 3,000 Cst. was for all Toyotas except for the Celica, which got 
6,000 Cst. The 10,000 Cst. was not assigned an application by the 
Toada TSB. Parts monkey guessed maybe the Land Cruiser but didn't 
really know.


Anyway, the part numbers are 08816-03001, 08816-06001, and 
08816-10001, respectively."


So, The RIGHT PART NUMBER IS 08816-10001!  Still priced at $5760/gallon!


The Toada stuff is pricey, which is why I got mine at a local hobby 
shop that specializes in RC trucks.  Apparently, they use the stuff 
in their gear trains on the trucks.  I still have the bottle in the 
package, as I never got the fan clutch off the car.  I paid $6.99 
for it about a year and a half ago.


Not having gone through with the drain and refill I can't say much 
more than this.  I know it's time consuming because the stuff is so 
thick.


Dan


 On Nov 17, 2015, at 9:53 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:


 No oil, no fan, not cool!

 Toada stealer didn't have the oil.  They ordered a bottle.  $22.50 
for what Dan said was $6!  (the porch writeup says it takes 2 
bottles!)  I sure hope it is a bigger bottle!


 Hobby shop did not have any.  They had 1/2 oz bottles of what is 
probably M1 for $9


 I checked several auto parts shops.  None could crossover the 
toada number.  None have the oil


 Working on the (126) aux fan later, I found the female part of the 
2 pin connector that resides around the A/C receiver/dryer had one 
pin socket broken out.  Open circuit. no fan.  I ended up cutting 
out the plug ends and splicing in the wires.  This is the heap, so 
quick and dirty wins over doing it right.



 I have a bottle in the shop, I'll look at the details.  I think 
it's 10,000W oil, believe it or not.  A little bottle at a local 
hobby shop that sells stuff for RC cars and trucks had it fr like 
$6.00.


 Dan


 On Nov 17, 2015, at 12:33 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 wrote:


 Some time ago there was a discussion of oil spec. and viscosity 
for the fan clutch.  I suspect the fan on my 126 need an oil 
change and fill.


 Does anyone have the spec and amount for the oil?

 Answered my own Q!

 Ah! here is the article  http://members.rennlist.com/blueshark/page13.html

 1cst silicone oil.

 >
 > Source: Toada stealer:  Toada silicone oil, part number 
08816-03001-get 2 bottles

 >


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2015-11-17 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
> Curly wrote:
> 
> Uh Oh!  I just found out the toada stuff is 3000 cst, not
> 10,000cst, but if you put enough in, it will work.

A quick search found these links.  I have no idea if this is
what you need, or if it is the quantity you need.

60ml for $4.12
http://www.hobbypartz.com/17p-10020.html

100 ml for $20
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUDY-Ultimate-Silicone-Shock-Damper-Oil-3000-cSt-100ML-RC-Car-HSP-106431-/131007064255

4 oz [118 ml] $6.80
http://www.bonesmotorsports.com/Bones-Motorsports-3000-cst-Diff-Oil_p_61.html

2 oz [59 ml] $6.50, free shipping
www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-Factory-Silicone-Differential/dp/B000SLOW6E/

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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch - Lesson Learned

2014-07-31 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
I don't see how it would work at all since the later 60x cars have a single 
center bolt that holds it to the pump and the 617 has 4 bolts around the hub 
that hold it to the pump.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 31, 2014, at 3:38 PM, LarryT via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 Well, I tried something today hoping it would work but unfortunately it 
 didn't quite work out.  I removed a fan assy from a early 80s 300SD with the 
 plan of installing it on our 91 300D.  I cleaned it  measured it -- all 
 measurements matched - the dia of the center clutch was the same on both fan 
 assys - yippee!  same for the number of blades and the dia of the central 
 dia.Great I think - $5 for something that would be around $200 or more!  
 Awesome!  so next I set both side by side - Oops - the blades are made to 
 turn in the opposite direction!So, says I, let's move the new (used) 
 clutch assy to the old fan blades.   All fit OK - except the 300D had 3 bolt 
 holes and the 300SD has 4 bolts.  Hmmm.   With the slots in the clutch it 
 looks like there will be no problem with the fit. So together they go.  Then 
 I notice the bolts are different lengths.  Hmmm again
 
 I tried to switch the clutch with the fans and then tried the bolt - nope, 
 too long, did not leave eouugh room for the ratchet and socket -   so I took 
 the 300SD fan out and put the original back.
 
 So, there ya go - don't try to replace fans unless you take lots of 
 measurements, take photos and check the fan rotation direction. Now I'm on 
 the look out for a good used fan clutch.
 
 The fun never ends..   Have a good day -
 LarryT
 78 240D
 91 300D
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch - Lesson Learned

2014-07-31 Thread Dwight Giles via Mercedes
Yes Larry,  a lesson I have learned many times- nothing as expensive as a
cheap fix.
On Jul 31, 2014 4:38 PM, LarryT via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Well, I tried something today hoping it would work but unfortunately it
 didn't quite work out.  I removed a fan assy from a early 80s 300SD with
 the plan of installing it on our 91 300D.  I cleaned it  measured it --
 all measurements matched - the dia of the center clutch was the same on
 both fan assys - yippee!  same for the number of blades and the dia of the
 central dia.Great I think - $5 for something that would be around $200
 or more!  Awesome!  so next I set both side by side - Oops - the blades are
 made to turn in the opposite direction!So, says I, let's move the new
 (used) clutch assy to the old fan blades.   All fit OK - except the 300D
 had 3 bolt holes and the 300SD has 4 bolts.  Hmmm.   With the slots in the
 clutch it looks like there will be no problem with the fit. So together
 they go.  Then I notice the bolts are different lengths.  Hmmm again

 I tried to switch the clutch with the fans and then tried the bolt - nope,
 too long, did not leave eouugh room for the ratchet and socket -   so I
 took the 300SD fan out and put the original back.

 So, there ya go - don't try to replace fans unless you take lots of
 measurements, take photos and check the fan rotation direction. Now I'm on
 the look out for a good used fan clutch.

 The fun never ends..   Have a good day -
 LarryT
 78 240D
 91 300D


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-14 Thread MG
Ah ha. So the place I was looking only had the electric fans. 
That's why I couldn't find one. Now that I think on it I seem to 
remember seeing an electric clutch on a car in the UP. I'll have 
to go back there and take a closer look at it.


Manfred


Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 19:02:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

The OM601 was only in the US for '84 and '85 in the 190D. It had 
both an electromagnetic fan clutch on the engine powered fan and 
an added electric fan in front of the condenser which only comes 
on when the AC is on. See Dr. Fatty 
here:?http://www.buyeuroparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1984-MERCEDES-190dyearid=1984%40%401984makeid=63%40%40MERCEDESmodelid=6119%3AMBC%7C1481%3AED%7C1092%40%40190Dcatid=240909@@Cooling%20Systemsubcatid=240997@@Fan%20Clutchmode=PA



-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-14 Thread Fmiser
 Chris wrote:
 
 
 I wondered why they didn't put electric clutches on the larger
 engined cars. They are pretty neat  perhaps offer better control
 of engine temps with a defined on-off signal from the temp switch.

Maybe because an electric fan is more effective and should be
easier to engineer around than a engine-driven fan.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-14 Thread Fmiser
 Chris wrote:
 
 
 I wondered why they didn't put electric clutches on the larger
 engined cars. They are pretty neat  perhaps offer better control
 of engine temps with a defined on-off signal from the temp switch.

Maybe because an electric fan is more effective and should be
easier to engineer around than a engine-driven fan.

--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-14 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel

At 3:14 PM -0500 7/13/13, Peter Frederick wrote:

The fan is also kicked on in high speed by the temperature switch in 
the thermostat housing.  Pull that wire off the switch and ground 
with the ignition on, fan must run on full speed.  If not, it's the 
fan, the fuse, or the relay.


Well, the relay clicks when I do that, but no fan.  Are the relay and 
the fan on the same fuse?


-MMM-

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-14 Thread OK Don
I don't think so, but you'll have to look that one up.


On Sun, Jul 14, 2013 at 7:25 PM, M. Mitchell Marmel marme...@gmail.comwrote:

 At 3:14 PM -0500 7/13/13, Peter Frederick wrote:

  The fan is also kicked on in high speed by the temperature switch in the
 thermostat housing.  Pull that wire off the switch and ground with the
 ignition on, fan must run on full speed.  If not, it's the fan, the fuse,
 or the relay.


 Well, the relay clicks when I do that, but no fan.  Are the relay and the
 fan on the same fuse?

 -MMM-


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-- 
OK Don
2013 F150, 19 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-14 Thread Peter Frederick
No, the aux fan has it's own fuse.  Also check to make sure the slow  
speed resistor is OK, else you won't have low speed.


I found out today that the AC is fine on the TE, but the aux fan was  
jammed by an extra metal tab sticking out in an inappropriate place on  
the new condenser I put in last year,  so now the AC works until the  
head pressure gets so high the belt slips.  What a pain -- no current  
to the fan with a new fuse, will have to dig the relay out tomorrow  
and see if I have a spare, and check the resistor.


At least it cools on the highway, gonna be in the 90s all week so I  
plan to drive the TE instead of the diesel, which still needs and  
evaporator.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread MG
Yeah I thought of putting in an all electric fan, even have two 
different ones to try but I wanted to explore the possibility of 
using a part that fit right in. If none of the 617s ever had an 
electric fan clutch then I will be on the lookout for one on the 
601 in the upull. Do you know if that will bolt up to the 617?


Manfred

Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 19:04:14 -0500
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

I think your options are to get and try one from a 601 in a W201 
- 190D, or
replace the entire fan with an electric fan or two mounted where 
the fan
shroud is now. Then you can control it electrically all you want 
 :-)


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread MG
Did some more looking. Looks like the 601-602 have a completely 
electric fan. I wanted to try and find a fan with an electric 
clutch like the AC compressor that would bolt to the water pump 
in place of the viscous coupling there now. Don't know if there 
is one like that on any of the Mercedes models but figured with 
all the people here if there was then someone might have one or 
know of one and what car it was on.


Manfred

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread MG
All I could see for the 190s is the all electric fan, no clutch 
there at all.


Have been having slightly higher then normal temps in the summer 
ever since I did a cooling system flush and installed a new 
thermostat (up to 100 at first and 110 now in Fl with AC at high 
speeds or around town with heavy traffic). My thought actually 
was to try a new thermostat since that is the most likely suspect 
(not opening far enough?). It was brand new from Rusty so I put 
less of an emphases on that and thought more of the fan clutch 
especially since it has been getting worse in the past year or 
more. Wish I hadn't thrown away the old thermo so I could put it 
in now.


Then again it could have been some crud that got into the 
radiator from the engine during the flush.


The whole idea with the electric clutch is just that it's a 
neat-o cool thing to have on an engine ( well in my confused mind 
anyway, no accounting for tastes is there). That said I do have a 
new thermo and clutch on the way but still am in want with the 
electric clutch thing. :-)


Manfred

Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 22:54:01 -0400
From: Chris James c_ja...@gmx.com

Yes, the 4cyl cars were the only ones to have the 
electromechanical fan

clutch (starting with the 190E 2.3  190D 2.2 here in the US.).

Just buy a new fan clutch for your OM617, instead of trying to
re-engineer the car  be done with itAre you currently having
cooling issues?

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Dave in SoCal
On Jul 12, 2013, at 9:21 PM, M. Mitchell Marmel wrote:

 At 9:39 PM -0500 7/12/13, OK Don wrote:
 The receiver drier is by the port side of the radiator --
 
 Out in front.  Found it.  And those two wires coming out are for the fan?
 
 -MMM-

Looked into this awhile back for my W123s. Cleanest method I could figure was 
to put a switch inline from  pin 5 on the fan relay to ground.
The relay is ice cube shaped, the furthest of the two away from the firewall on 
top of the L front wheel well.
It's the shortest distance to the cabin and can look factory with a little 
effort.

Dave in SoCal
'82 240D (3 pedal), '84 300TD (Euro), '85 300TD (Cali) 


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Curt Raymond
Probably not... 
They're VERY rare and command some money. New they're like $300+.

As installed on a 601 I've never been really happy with them as they don't turn 
on until the engine is quite hot. I've thought about sneaking a lower temp 
sensor (there are 3, one for the gauge, one for the fan clutch, one for the aux 
fan) to see if I could get it to lock up sooner.

Dr. Fatty has an early 617 URO fan clutch for $80, the later is a Behr which is 
$300+

-Curt

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 07:07:39 -0400
From: MG trainpain2...@aol.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch
Message-ID: 51e134fb.1040...@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Yeah I thought of putting in an all electric fan, even have two 
different ones to try but I wanted to explore the possibility of 
using a part that fit right in. If none of the 617s ever had an 
electric fan clutch then I will be on the lookout for one on the 
601 in the upull. Do you know if that will bolt up to the 617?

Manfred

Date: Fri, 12 Jul 2013 19:04:14 -0500
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

I think your options are to get and try one from a 601 in a W201 
- 190D, or
replace the entire fan with an electric fan or two mounted where 
the fan
shroud is now. Then you can control it electrically all you want 
  :-)
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Curt Raymond
Untrue, 601 uses an electromagnetic fan clutch as previously discussed.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 07:33:34 -0400
From: MG trainpain2...@aol.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch
Message-ID: 51e13b0e.50...@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Did some more looking. Looks like the 601-602 have a completely 
electric fan. I wanted to try and find a fan with an electric 
clutch like the AC compressor that would bolt to the water pump 
in place of the viscous coupling there now. Don't know if there 
is one like that on any of the Mercedes models but figured with 
all the people here if there was then someone might have one or 
know of one and what car it was on.

Manfred
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Curt Raymond
I don't think high temps at speed is a bad fan clutch, once you're up to speed 
the ram air through the radiator means the fan isn't doing a whole lot.
High temps at low speeds is possibly the fan clutch...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 07:49:22 -0400
From: MG trainpain2...@aol.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch
Message-ID: 51e13ec2.8020...@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

All I could see for the 190s is the all electric fan, no clutch 
there at all.

Have been having slightly higher then normal temps in the summer 
ever since I did a cooling system flush and installed a new 
thermostat (up to 100 at first and 110 now in Fl with AC at high 
speeds or around town with heavy traffic). My thought actually 
was to try a new thermostat since that is the most likely suspect 
(not opening far enough?). It was brand new from Rusty so I put 
less of an emphases on that and thought more of the fan clutch 
especially since it has been getting worse in the past year or 
more. Wish I hadn't thrown away the old thermo so I could put it 
in now.
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Rick Knoble
On Jul 13, 2013, at 9:53 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Dr. Fatty has an early 617 URO fan clutch for $80, the later is a Behr which 
 is $300+


Autohaus  AZ has the behr for 160. Benzpartsforless has oe for 300 something. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Fmiser
   At 9:39 PM -0500 7/12/13, OK Don wrote:
  
   The receiver drier is by the port side of the radiator --

  M. Mitchell Marmel wrote:
 
  Out in front.  Found it.  And those two wires coming out are
  for the fan?

 Dave wrote:
 
 Looked into this awhile back for my W123s. Cleanest method I
 could figure was to put a switch inline from  pin 5 on the fan
 relay to ground. The relay is ice cube shaped, the furthest of
 the two away from the firewall on top of the L front wheel well.
 It's the shortest distance to the cabin and can look factory with
 a little effort.

That also would carry a lot less current, so the switch can be
lighter, and the wire smaller.  If there is already a relay, that's
how I would do it.

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Peter Frederick
There are usually two sets of wires -- one for a low refrigerant  
pressure switch (to save the compressor if the freon leaks out) and a  
pressure or temperature switch to kick the auxillary fan in on low  
speed.  If you short the two wires for the fan switch together with  
the ignition on and the fan does NOT run, either the relay, the fan,  
or the fuse is bad.


The fan is also kicked on in high speed by the temperature switch in  
the thermostat housing.  Pull that wire off the switch and ground with  
the ignition on, fan must run on full speed.  If not, it's the fan,  
the fuse, or the relay.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread MG
Ah well that is what I was worrying about. I was hoping for more 
like $140 to $160 range. As far as the turn on point as long as 
it turned on in the 95 to 100 range it would be fine with me.


I already have a URO clutch on the way for $47 and a thermo for 
$16. If that doesn't do it then I guess I'm stuck taking out the 
radiator and cleaning it. Will probably do that in one of those 
small kiddy pools just to see what kind of garbage comes out. If 
none the maybe it's time for a new one.


Manfred


Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 07:53:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com

Probably not...?
They're VERY rare and command some money. New they're like $300+.

As installed on a 601 I've never been really happy with them as 
they don't turn on until the engine is quite hot. I've thought 
about sneaking a lower temp sensor (there are 3, one for the 
gauge, one for the fan clutch, one for the aux fan) to see if I 
could get it to lock up sooner.


Dr. Fatty has an early 617 URO fan clutch for $80, the later is a 
Behr which is $300+


-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread MG
Yeah. That's why I was thinking of the thermo as the first part 
to change. If that doesn't work then the next easiest is the fan 
clutch, then the radiator.


As far as the electro magnetic fan fan clutch. What year and 
model car is that? I looked at the 190D with 601 and it showed 
what looked to be a plain electric fan, or are the electric 
clutches sold with the fan on them? Didn't look like it and only 
cost about $80.


Manfred


Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 07:56:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com


I don't think high temps at speed is a bad fan clutch, once 
you're up to speed the ram air through the radiator means the fan 
isn't doing a whole lot.

High temps at low speeds is possibly the fan clutch...

-Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Chris James


I think if I remember correctly from my 190D, the main fan was engaged 
at 100C  cut off once the temp lowered to around 90C-95C. High speed 
aux was set to trigger at 110C. Perhaps you have a bad or incorrect temp 
switch installed?



On 7/13/2013 10:53 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:

As installed on a 601 I've never been really happy with them as they
don't turn on until the engine is quite hot. I've thought about
sneaking a lower temp sensor (there are 3, one for the gauge, one for
the fan clutch, one for the aux fan) to see if I could get it to lock
up sooner.



--
Chris J.
MBCA Peachtree section
Past MB Models:
'85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Chris James


I wondered why they didn't put electric clutches on the larger engined 
cars. They are pretty neat  perhaps offer better control of engine 
temps with a defined on-off signal from the temp switch.


Looked at a W116 300SD for sale once. The owner said he had bolted the 
fan to the clutch?, so it turned all the time. Not sure that's such an 
ideal fix though.


Hopefully a new clutch will help. Just looked at new OE MSRP for your 
617, whoa!



On 7/13/2013 7:49 AM, MG wrote:

All I could see for the 190s is the all electric fan, no clutch there at
all.

Have been having slightly higher then normal temps in the summer ever
since I did a cooling system flush and installed a new thermostat (up to
100 at first and 110 now in Fl with AC at high speeds or around town
with heavy traffic). My thought actually was to try a new thermostat
since that is the most likely suspect (not opening far enough?). It was
brand new from Rusty so I put less of an emphases on that and thought
more of the fan clutch especially since it has been getting worse in the
past year or more. Wish I hadn't thrown away the old thermo so I could
put it in now.

Then again it could have been some crud that got into the radiator from
the engine during the flush.

The whole idea with the electric clutch is just that it's a neat-o cool
thing to have on an engine ( well in my confused mind anyway, no
accounting for tastes is there). That said I do have a new thermo and
clutch on the way but still am in want with the electric clutch thing. :-)

Manfred





--
Chris J.
MBCA Peachtree section
Past MB Models:
'85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-13 Thread Curt Raymond
The OM601 was only in the US for '84 and '85 in the 190D. It had both an 
electromagnetic fan clutch on the engine powered fan and an added electric fan 
in front of the condenser which only comes on when the AC is on. See Dr. Fatty 
here: 
http://www.buyeuroparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1984-MERCEDES-190dyearid=1984%40%401984makeid=63%40%40MERCEDESmodelid=6119%3AMBC%7C1481%3AED%7C1092%40%40190Dcatid=240909@@Cooling%20Systemsubcatid=240997@@Fan%20Clutchmode=PA


-Curt

Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 17:56:06 -0400
From: MG trainpain2...@aol.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch
Message-ID: 51e1ccf6.1070...@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Yeah. That's why I was thinking of the thermo as the first part 
to change. If that doesn't work then the next easiest is the fan 
clutch, then the radiator.

As far as the electro magnetic fan fan clutch. What year and 
model car is that? I looked at the 190D with 601 and it showed 
what looked to be a plain electric fan, or are the electric 
clutches sold with the fan on them? Didn't look like it and only 
cost about $80.

Manfred


Date: Sat, 13 Jul 2013 07:56:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com


I don't think high temps at speed is a bad fan clutch, once 
you're up to speed the ram air through the radiator means the fan 
isn't doing a whole lot.
High temps at low speeds is possibly the fan clutch...

-Curt
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-12 Thread Craig
On Fri, 12 Jul 2013 10:40:54 -0400 MG trainpain2...@aol.com wrote:

 Does anyone know if there is an electric fan clutch available for 
 the 617 engine?

I have never heard of one.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-12 Thread OK Don
I think your options are to get and try one from a 601 in a W201 - 190D, or
replace the entire fan with an electric fan or two mounted where the fan
shroud is now. Then you can control it electrically all you want :-)


On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 2:08 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Fri, 12 Jul 2013 10:40:54 -0400 MG trainpain2...@aol.com wrote:

  Does anyone know if there is an electric fan clutch available for
  the 617 engine?

 I have never heard of one.


 Craig

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-- 
OK Don
2013 F150, 19 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-12 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel

At 7:04 PM -0500 7/12/13, OK Don wrote:

I think your options are to get and try one from a 601 in a W201 - 190D, or
replace the entire fan with an electric fan or two mounted where the fan
shroud is now. Then you can control it electrically all you want :-)


Speaking of which, Don, I wanna wire the electric radiator fan in 
your former 450SLC for manual control as needed.  Where's a good 
place to splice in the wiring?


-MMM-

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-12 Thread Dan Penoff
Why not wire it in at the high temp switch at the receiver dryer?

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 12, 2013, at 8:42 PM, M. Mitchell Marmel marme...@gmail.com wrote:

 At 7:04 PM -0500 7/12/13, OK Don wrote:
 I think your options are to get and try one from a 601 in a W201 - 190D, or
 replace the entire fan with an electric fan or two mounted where the fan
 shroud is now. Then you can control it electrically all you want :-)
 
 Speaking of which, Don, I wanna wire the electric radiator fan in your former 
 450SLC for manual control as needed.  Where's a good place to splice in the 
 wiring?
 
 -MMM-
 
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-12 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel

At 8:54 PM -0400 7/12/13, Dan Penoff wrote:

Why not wire it in at the high temp switch at the receiver dryer?


Good idea.  Where dat?

-MMM-

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-12 Thread Craig
On Fri, 12 Jul 2013 20:20:21 -0500 M. Mitchell Marmel
marme...@gmail.com wrote:

 At 8:54 PM -0400 7/12/13, Dan Penoff wrote:
 Why not wire it in at the high temp switch at the receiver dryer?
 
 Good idea.  Where dat?

Considering the vintage of your car, look for the cylinderical thing in
the A/C plumbing in the engine compartment that has the sight glass and
a brass dohickey with a couple of wires on it. The wires are the ones
you want to tap in to. I'm guessing you will want your manual switch to
short the two wires together, just like the temperature switch on the
receiver drier does.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-12 Thread OK Don
The receiver drier is by the port side of the radiator --


On Fri, Jul 12, 2013 at 9:14 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

 On Fri, 12 Jul 2013 20:20:21 -0500 M. Mitchell Marmel
 marme...@gmail.com wrote:

  At 8:54 PM -0400 7/12/13, Dan Penoff wrote:
  Why not wire it in at the high temp switch at the receiver dryer?
 
  Good idea.  Where dat?

 Considering the vintage of your car, look for the cylinderical thing in
 the A/C plumbing in the engine compartment that has the sight glass and
 a brass dohickey with a couple of wires on it. The wires are the ones
 you want to tap in to. I'm guessing you will want your manual switch to
 short the two wires together, just like the temperature switch on the
 receiver drier does.


 Craig




-- 
OK Don
2013 F150, 19 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-12 Thread Chris James


Yes, the 4cyl cars were the only ones to have the electromechanical fan 
clutch (starting with the 190E 2.3  190D 2.2 here in the US.).


Just buy a new fan clutch for your OM617, instead of trying to 
re-engineer the car  be done with itAre you currently having 
cooling issues?



On 7/12/2013 8:04 PM, OK Don wrote:

I think your options are to get and try one from a 601 in a W201 - 190D



--
Chris J.
MBCA Peachtree section
Past MB Models:
'85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E

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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch

2013-07-12 Thread M. Mitchell Marmel

At 9:39 PM -0500 7/12/13, OK Don wrote:

The receiver drier is by the port side of the radiator --


Out in front.  Found it.  And those two wires coming out are for the fan?

-MMM-

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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Botch job cause Stu said so

2013-03-08 Thread Dan Penoff
I have no problems with the fan clutch or the cooling system. In this climate 
you want everything to be working at its peak, as efficiencies really kick in 
when you have 98F ambients with 100% humidity, that's all.

It has been my understanding that the fluid can leak out slowly over the life 
if the vehicle, so I would expect that on a vehicle that is approaching 20 
years and nearly 250,000 miles that the fan clutch is probably in need of being 
topped off.

It has also been my finding that the oil used is 10,000 CST, so that is what I 
will use to top off. Thanks, Hendrick.

I will also be installing an 1.1k ohm resistor across the fan sensor to lower 
the aux fan threshold to around 90C or thereabouts.

All of this is proactive in anticipation of the normal summer temps around 
here, that's all.

A flush and fill with the new blue coolant and a new thermostat while I'm 
there, too.

Dan who wishes to be cool this summer

On Mar 7, 2013, at 11:49 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

 Typically a bad visco clutch results in rising temps sitting in slow traffic 
 or stopped that goes back down quickly when moving.  While technically not 
 overheating when the temp goes up to say 110, here in the sweat belt, lack of 
 airflow over the condenser means you sit in a hot, damp car sweating at slow 
 speeds, which is very uncomfortable.
 
 With the visco clutch working and the rest of the cooling system in good 
 shape, the temp should not go above 85 unless it's REALLY hot outside.
 
 Peter
 
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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Modification

2013-03-07 Thread Max Dillon
Looks easy enough.  Two methods are discussed, adding a bolt and shortening the 
pin.  You could undo the bolt, and if you had a spare pin you could restore the 
original, so neither modification needs to be permanent.

On my '95 E300, I refilled the clutch with oil, that worked for me.

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

Anyone ever try this?

http://www.k6jrf.com/MB_vfc.html

I see that it's originally from Stu, meaning that it must be relatively
safe.

Dan


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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Modification

2013-03-07 Thread Dan Penoff
I may look into this next week, as I am off for the week for spring break.

I don't like the pin modification, as it is permanent and the fan clutch is a 
rather pricey part.

I figured I would check on the fluid as well.  Can you expound on this some 
more?  I seem to recall some discussion about fan clutches and checking/adding 
fluid, but don't recall the details.

Thanks,

Dan


On Mar 7, 2013, at 8:03 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

 Looks easy enough.  Two methods are discussed, adding a bolt and shortening 
 the pin.  You could undo the bolt, and if you had a spare pin you could 
 restore the original, so neither modification needs to be permanent.
 
 On my '95 E300, I refilled the clutch with oil, that worked for me.
 
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
 
 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
 Anyone ever try this?
 
 http://www.k6jrf.com/MB_vfc.html
 
 I see that it's originally from Stu, meaning that it must be relatively
 safe.
 
 Dan
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Modification

2013-03-07 Thread Max Dillon
If you remove the bi-metallic strip and the pin, you can add oil through the 
hole the pin came from.

I used 3000 cps viscosity silicone oil, got a really small bottle at a hobby 
store.  They sell it for remote controlled car differentials.  I think the cost 
was $10 or so.

I found the best way to introduce the thick oil into the small hole was to heat 
the clutch assembly with a heat gun, then allow the oil to be drawn in as the 
fan cooled.  Someone posted on the Web somewhere the fill capacity; if you 
exceed that and overfill, the fan may be locked on even when cold.

You can test the fill level on the bench if you clamp the clutch in a vice and 
test how hard the rotation is when heated with the heat gun versus when cold.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

I may look into this next week, as I am off for the week for spring
break.

I don't like the pin modification, as it is permanent and the fan
clutch is a rather pricey part.

I figured I would check on the fluid as well.  Can you expound on this
some more?  I seem to recall some discussion about fan clutches and
checking/adding fluid, but don't recall the details.

Thanks,

Dan


On Mar 7, 2013, at 8:03 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

 Looks easy enough.  Two methods are discussed, adding a bolt and
shortening the pin.  You could undo the bolt, and if you had a spare
pin you could restore the original, so neither modification needs to be
permanent.
 
 On my '95 E300, I refilled the clutch with oil, that worked for me.
 
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
 
 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
 Anyone ever try this?
 
 http://www.k6jrf.com/MB_vfc.html
 
 I see that it's originally from Stu, meaning that it must be
relatively
 safe.
 
 Dan
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Modification

2013-03-07 Thread Kevin Kraly
That silicone oil was hard enough to get into the differential of my RC 
truck, but I think I used 10,000 CPS.  I have a bottle of 50,000, and it's 
nearly Solid!  I think it's available in 100,000 and 500,000 viscosities 
which would nearly lock up the gears.  The toughest part was not to get it 
onto anything including clothing since it's so hard to get off!


Kevin in LaPorte, CO, no Mercedes Diesels, but I have 6 RC trucks plus my 
latest addition, the new Traxxas 1:10 scale 4wd Rally Race car, one fun 
little machine! 



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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Modification

2013-03-07 Thread Dan Penoff
Ahhh, so the pin comes out, allowing you to fill through the hole it is located 
in.  Got it.

I'm not terribly keen about modifying the bimetallic strip, no matter what Stu 
says, despite wanting to do everything I can to keep the temps down.  I will 
probably just try and fill it as much as I can and live with that - worst case 
scenario would be that the fan is on when it's cooler, which isn't a big deal.

I am planning on doing the resistor addition to the aux fan circuit as well.  
That should help with under hood temps, too.

No problems with cooling, just wanting to get ahead of the seasons down here so 
it runs as cool as possible, that's all.

Going to the stealership tomorrow to pick up a couple of gallons of the new 
blue coolant.  Found my former parts guy is still there and willing to sell to 
me at very good prices.  A gallon of coolant lists for $31, my price is $23. 
Nice.

Dan


On Mar 7, 2013, at 8:43 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

 If you remove the bi-metallic strip and the pin, you can add oil through the 
 hole the pin came from.
 
 I used 3000 cps viscosity silicone oil, got a really small bottle at a hobby 
 store.  They sell it for remote controlled car differentials.  I think the 
 cost was $10 or so.
 
 I found the best way to introduce the thick oil into the small hole was to 
 heat the clutch assembly with a heat gun, then allow the oil to be drawn in 
 as the fan cooled.  Someone posted on the Web somewhere the fill capacity; if 
 you exceed that and overfill, the fan may be locked on even when cold.
 
 You can test the fill level on the bench if you clamp the clutch in a vice 
 and test how hard the rotation is when heated with the heat gun versus when 
 cold.
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
 
 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
 I may look into this next week, as I am off for the week for spring
 break.
 
 I don't like the pin modification, as it is permanent and the fan
 clutch is a rather pricey part.
 
 I figured I would check on the fluid as well.  Can you expound on this
 some more?  I seem to recall some discussion about fan clutches and
 checking/adding fluid, but don't recall the details.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Dan
 
 
 On Mar 7, 2013, at 8:03 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 
 Looks easy enough.  Two methods are discussed, adding a bolt and
 shortening the pin.  You could undo the bolt, and if you had a spare
 pin you could restore the original, so neither modification needs to be
 permanent.
 
 On my '95 E300, I refilled the clutch with oil, that worked for me.
 
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
 
 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
 Anyone ever try this?
 
 http://www.k6jrf.com/MB_vfc.html
 
 I see that it's originally from Stu, meaning that it must be
 relatively
 safe.
 
 Dan
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Modification

2013-03-07 Thread Peter Frederick
Two points on the fan clutch -- first, the fluid leaked out  
originally, it's very very unlikely the new fluid won't.  You should  
buy a goodly supply, as you will be doing this again pretty soon  
unless you take it all apart and replace the seals, which is what's  
wrong with it.


Second, clean your AC condenser and radiator.  Lotta crap in there  
even though it looks clean.  I replaced the condenser on my TE last  
fall, it was punctured.  Looked pretty clean, just a bit dusty (I live  
next to farm fields,eh?).  Ha, held it up the the light and it's  
almost completely occluded.  Engine temp dropped quite a bit with the  
new condenser, even with the AC on.


Get some evaporator cleaner and clean it, should help quite a bit with  
lowering operating temps.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Modification

2013-03-07 Thread Max Dillon
Peter,

Where are the seals, how are they replaced?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

Two points on the fan clutch -- first, the fluid leaked out  
originally, it's very very unlikely the new fluid won't.  You should  
buy a goodly supply, as you will be doing this again pretty soon  
unless you take it all apart and replace the seals, which is what's  
wrong with it.

Second, clean your AC condenser and radiator.  Lotta crap in there  
even though it looks clean.  I replaced the condenser on my TE last  
fall, it was punctured.  Looked pretty clean, just a bit dusty (I live 

next to farm fields,eh?).  Ha, held it up the the light and it's  
almost completely occluded.  Engine temp dropped quite a bit with the  
new condenser, even with the AC on.

Get some evaporator cleaner and clean it, should help quite a bit with 

lowering operating temps.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Modification

2013-03-07 Thread Peter Frederick
There are seals between the halves of the clutch and on the shaft.   
Usually the shaft is bad, I suspect, and you'd have to find a proper  
seal, I don't know of any kits.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Botch job cause Stu said so

2013-03-07 Thread Hendrik and fay
Question is, what is the problem, is the car getting hot, they are 
supposed to be hot.
Between 82 and 110 Celsius is operating range, at 110 the aux fan should 
come on as a last line of defence. At 82 the thermostat opens a bit and 
coolant really starts to flow.
Normal driving should be 82-85 depending on outside temp, in traffic it 
will creep up but should come down again reasonably quickly.
If you are not getting that sort of behaviour there may be a problem and 
yes a crook viscous coupling can be part of this problem.
My view is that Daimler-Benz know a bit about cars and engines (I 
believe they had something to do with the invention of them but not 
sure), sure the self proclaimed expert who wrote a book about one 
Daimler-Benz model probably knows more than Daimler but I'll stick with 
what the idiot engineers at the factory think.
However I would be happy to rewire the aux fan to come on at 90, more so 
to get extra air flow through the condenser.


Hendrik
who had nothing to do with the invention of the horseless carriage or 
internal combustion engine


On 08/03/13 12:44, Dan Penoff wrote:

Ahhh, so the pin comes out, allowing you to fill through the hole it is located 
in.  Got it.

I'm not terribly keen about modifying the bimetallic strip, no matter what Stu 
says, despite wanting to do everything I can to keep the temps down.  I will 
probably just try and fill it as much as I can and live with that - worst case 
scenario would be that the fan is on when it's cooler, which isn't a big deal.

I am planning on doing the resistor addition to the aux fan circuit as well.  
That should help with under hood temps, too.

No problems with cooling, just wanting to get ahead of the seasons down here so 
it runs as cool as possible, that's all.

Going to the stealership tomorrow to pick up a couple of gallons of the new 
blue coolant.  Found my former parts guy is still there and willing to sell to 
me at very good prices.  A gallon of coolant lists for $31, my price is $23. 
Nice.

Dan





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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Botch job cause Stu said so

2013-03-07 Thread Peter Frederick
Typically a bad visco clutch results in rising temps sitting in slow  
traffic or stopped that goes back down quickly when moving.  While  
technically not overheating when the temp goes up to say 110, here in  
the sweat belt, lack of airflow over the condenser means you sit in a  
hot, damp car sweating at slow speeds, which is very uncomfortable.


With the visco clutch working and the rest of the cooling system in  
good shape, the temp should not go above 85 unless it's REALLY hot  
outside.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Botch job cause Stu said so

2013-03-07 Thread Dieselhead
Question is, what is the problem, is the car getting hot, they are 
supposed to be hot.
Between 82 and 110 Celsius is operating range, at 110 the aux fan 
should come on as a last line of defence. At 82 the thermostat opens 
a bit and coolant really starts to flow.
Normal driving should be 82-85 depending on outside temp, in traffic 
it will creep up but should come down again reasonably quickly.
If you are not getting that sort of behaviour there may be a problem 
and yes a crook viscous coupling can be part of this problem.
My view is that Daimler-Benz know a bit about cars and engines (I 
believe they had something to do with the invention of them but not 
sure), sure the self proclaimed expert who wrote a book about one 
Daimler-Benz model probably knows more than Daimler but I'll stick 
with what the idiot engineers at the factory think.
However I would be happy to rewire the aux fan to come on at 90, 
more so to get extra air flow through the condenser.


Hendrik
who had nothing to do with the invention of the horseless carriage 
or internal combustion engine


I tend to agree with Hendrik,  If the car is overheating, it is 
likely a bad rad or a plugged up condensor, or both.


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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Botch job cause Stu said so

2013-03-07 Thread Hendrik and fay

The aux fan is supposed to work on refrigerant pressure as well.
Pretty sure the main fan is not supposed to come on until 95.
And yeah we've been sweating here as well 30-35 degrees with high humidity.

Hendrik
who is not sweating at the moment

On 08/03/13 15:19, Peter Frederick wrote:
Typically a bad visco clutch results in rising temps sitting in slow 
traffic or stopped that goes back down quickly when moving.  While 
technically not overheating when the temp goes up to say 110, here in 
the sweat belt, lack of airflow over the condenser means you sit in a 
hot, damp car sweating at slow speeds, which is very uncomfortable.


With the visco clutch working and the rest of the cooling system in 
good shape, the temp should not go above 85 unless it's REALLY hot 
outside.


Peter




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Re: [MBZ] Fan Clutch Modification oil thread

2013-03-07 Thread Hendrik and fay
According to this 
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/189747-viscous-fan-oil-viscocity.html 
it's supposed to be 10,000CST.


Hendrik
who might have to investigate his fluid coupling

On 08/03/13 12:13, Max Dillon wrote:

If you remove the bi-metallic strip and the pin, you can add oil through the 
hole the pin came from.

I used 3000 cps viscosity silicone oil, got a really small bottle at a hobby 
store.  They sell it for remote controlled car differentials.  I think the cost 
was $10 or so.

I found the best way to introduce the thick oil into the small hole was to heat 
the clutch assembly with a heat gun, then allow the oil to be drawn in as the 
fan cooled.  Someone posted on the Web somewhere the fill capacity; if you 
exceed that and overfill, the fan may be locked on even when cold.

You can test the fill level on the bench if you clamp the clutch in a vice and 
test how hard the rotation is when heated with the heat gun versus when cold.


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Re: [MBZ] Fan clutch operation (was: Terrified driving)

2005-09-30 Thread Dave M.
I agree with Marshall. Anyone who thinks the fan is redundant at
freeway speeds, please remove your fan and go for a drive on the
freeway. Be prepared to either re-install the fan on the side of the
freeway (I can hear Gabe firing up the flame-o-gram already), or call
AAA to tow your car with the blown engine home. It does a LOT more
than you think.

:)

-dm

 --
 Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2005 16:54:57 -0400
 From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Terrified driving

 Potter, Tom E wrote:
  If the engine temperature is rising when doing 80 mph, the problem is
  not the fan. The fan becomes redundant after about 30 mph. Most fan
  couplings disengage about 2500 rpm anyway. I would look further into
  cooling system problems.

 That is NOT true of the viscous fan clutch used in at least some
 Mercedes turbodiesels. They DO have some influence on cooling under
 heavy loads even at high speeds. They do NOT disengage, but they do NOT
 turn at full engine speed (are limited to around 3000-3500 rpm or so).

 Marshall