Location of this car? Mobile website surfing stinks.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
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I believe it was in Daytona Beach, FL.
Dan
On Jul 24, 2015, at 12:42 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
Location of this car? Mobile website surfing stinks.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
___
Thanks Dan, pix look like FL.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
On July 24, 2015 12:48:17 PM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
I believe it was in Daytona Beach, FL.
Dan
On Jul 24, 2015, at 12:42 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
I think you guys are confirmed bottom-feeders, struggling to justify why the
old adage about a cheap Mercedes is wrong.
Assuming the seller is not lying, a low mile and rust free diesel wagon that is
not rough should easily be worth twice what they go for all the time.
Local market will drive
On July 24, 2015 at 10:16 AM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
His is about a $3500 car
Spending a ton of money bringing a car up to snuff does not raise its market
value a corresponding amount,
but it does make the car a much better deal at $3500 than a $2500
A common line of thinking on Craigslist. “I just put an exorbitant amount of
money into this car so now it’s worth that and more.”
Never seems to work out, either.
Dan
On Jul 24, 2015, at 3:20 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
Spending a ton of money bringing a
Exactly. Otherwise it would be a 2-2.5k car like you say. Maybe even less. 124
diesels are almost free these days around here. There was a decent 87 300d on
cl a couple months ago that would not start after a filter change. Somebody
bought it as I saw it in the last couple of weeks, runs and
Curly,
The plug on the top of the IP is the rack position sensor, nothing to do with
idle. It has a locking ring that needs to be turned to allow removal.
There is a small two pin connector at the back of the IP, between IP and cruise
control actuator, which is for idle. Pinch to release.
--
No, that one is for diagnostics, specifically setting the injection
timing with the dynamic tool.
The one for the idle speed/tach is on the rear of the engine reading
off the flywheel.
Peter
Interesting. Thanks again. We have a 87 124 300D that has a
completely wacko idle. Everything
I think I just put a mark on the bolts when I did it on a OM602.
On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 9:25 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
It's aluminum, under high pressure, and too expensive for me to risk
messing it up. YMMV.
On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 8:18 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
I thought you had a special wrench to measure the 90 degree rotations.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:
I didn't use anything fancy at all. I just used the $40 digital torque
wrench adapter from HF. I read a recent review about this
Max Dillon wrote:
I thought you had a special wrench to measure the 90 degree rotations.
Snap-On has one of those.
Or you can paint 4 lines or arrows on your socket.
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Haven't driven it very far, didn't see any coolant loss yet.
Head is a #20, was pressure checked by machine shop prior to installation, so I
would really doubt that, but that is the must common reason for pressurized
cooling system.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa
I may try something along those lines, attach a pointer to the socket and lay a
90 degree guide on the head.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
Max Dillon wrote:
I thought you had a special wrench to measure the 90 degree
That is a good idea. You can feel the bolts
yield. To my thinking, if you get 85 or 95 º of
turn, as long as you feel the bolt yield, it
won't make that much difference. So I don't
think you have to be that accurate.
Loren
I may try something along those lines, attach a
pointer to the
So should I pull one bolt at a time, measure stretch to make sure it is still
within spec, then torque in the three stages without the ten minute wait before
the last 90 degree turn, or do I need to keep the wait?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
Dieselhead
No, that is not what I am saying at all. Follow
the book procedure. On a normal bolt, the more
you turn it, the tighter it gets. On the stretch
bolts, as you make the two 90º turns per the
book , at some point in the turn it no longer
takes increasing power as the bolt turns. This
means
NO! - Loosen the bolts in the pattern in the book - then re-torque/stretch
them per the book. Do not pull out the bolts one at a time - at the risk of
warping the head.
On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:
So should I pull one bolt at a time, measure
Ok, but why? Removing and re-torquing one bolt at a time doesn't seem like a
recipe for warping the head. There are twenty-two of them!
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
NO! - Loosen the bolts in the pattern in the book - then
It's aluminum, under high pressure, and too expensive for me to risk
messing it up. YMMV.
On Fri, Mar 8, 2013 at 8:18 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:
Ok, but why? Removing and re-torquing one bolt at a time doesn't seem
like a recipe for warping the head. There are twenty-two
Max, what's the latest with your 300TD? You had a head prob; is that solved;
is it running, etc.?
Is the E300's cooing sys (cabin) OK?
Wilton
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I only drove it a couple hundred miles and parked it.
Sometimes the upper radiator hose would stay pressurized after the engine
cooled, so I'm suspicious that either the head is bad, the gasket is bad, or I
didn't properly torque the head bolts.
I'd love to borrow that fancy torque wrench that
You should only need a torque wrench for the first step of head bolt
tightening, to 35 ft/lbs. After that it's a 90 degree turn, wait 10
min, do another 90 degrees. If you attempt to use a torque wrench for
final tightening, you will either break the bolts or leave it too
loose,
Peter,
Yes, I used new head bolts, followed the FSM procedure, but used a breaker bar
for the ninety degree turns.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:
You should only need a torque wrench for the first step of head bolt
I didn't use anything fancy at all. I just used the $40 digital torque wrench
adapter from HF. I read a recent review about this showing it was just as
precise (in some cases more) than others.
Looks it on sale! http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-torue-adapter-68283.html
Sent from my ASUS
So I actually added a step in between (before the final tightening sequence)
and gave them an extra while to sit before that last 90*
Heads coming off again so I can pop the pistons out and rehone the cylinders
and hope I get better compression for cheap. All the fuel my super pump dumps
in is
Ugh, that means you may have a cracked head. Not a good deal.
Does it use coolant? If not, probably not a cracked head.
Peter
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On 13/10/2011 6:13 PM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:
On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 3:15 PM, Randy Bennellrbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
On 13/10/2011 3:26 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
This guy seems to be fairly straight about his car
http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/2646704174.html
One could remove and
On Friday, October 14, 2011 11:15 AM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
wrote:
I guess it may depend on how careful he was but looking at that tank
sitting in the well at the back of the car leads me to believe that
spills have probably occurred.
Good steam cleaning with strong detergent
This guy seems to be fairly straight about his car
http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/2646704174.html
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On 13/10/2011 3:26 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
This guy seems to be fairly straight about his car
http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/2646704174.html
One could remove and sell the WVO kit but one would NEVER get the smell
of frenchfries out of that interior.
Randy
On Thu, Oct 13, 2011 at 3:15 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
On 13/10/2011 3:26 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
This guy seems to be fairly straight about his car
http://bloomington.craigslist.org/cto/2646704174.html
One could remove and sell the WVO kit but one would NEVER get the
Yes, and it seems that there are heads with numbers from 16 on up to 22.
Attached is a picture of the casting of the part number from the head I just
took off my wagon. It is a number 14 head, the number is found above the number
two injector hole.
This car has 330,000 miles, has been using a
Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net writes:
This car has 330,000 miles, has been using a very small amount of
coolant for years, but never had the hard upper hose when
cold.
I've had a question about this test, is this done with the engine
running and cold (i.e. just after a cold start) or
Test is hard hose after cool down, engine not running.
Requires a good coolant tank, which one should not assume by this age.
Peter
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But a 14 head is not a conviction. All of my 603s have or have had
14 heads. My original SDL was the best running of all and had over
400K on the 14 head. The last time this came up, the general
discussion was that if the 14 head survived this long, it would
probably live out its life.
No, I think that is the later 124s which had weak evaporators and wiring
harnesses that disintegrate. 1994 1995 I think, but now I'm remembering that
Wilton replaced one for one of his cars Which one was that Wilton?
Max
--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my
Max Dillon wrote:
No, I think that is the later 124s which had weak evaporators and wiring harnesses
that disintegrate. 1994 1995 I think, but now I'm remembering that Wilton
replaced one for one of his cars Which one was that Wilton?
Wilton has a very well preserved 1987 sedan, he
Evaporator failures ran 15-30%, I believe (two out of three at our
house), probably due to the use of copper pipes swagged onto aluminum
cores. They crack at the junctions between the pipes and core as a
general rule, although other failures are possible.
The new ones are all aluminum,
Chances are if the car has made it this far you are not going to have
head problems.
-Rolf
On 7/30/2011 7:26 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
Isn't their some concern with the 87 diesels? A certain problematic head or
something?
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For
Isn't this the one with a picture of a head gasket amongst other parts in
the back? If there is no head problem why buy the parts?(unless you find a
deal on them or something like that.)
Worth asking about right? Maybe they know it has an early head and bought
parts just in case?
Mike
On Jul
Evapectomy on '87 300D built in Oct '86.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?
No, I think that is the later 124s
Message -
From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?
That engine was sold in various versions (4, 5, and 6 cylinder) from 1984
to 1995 or so. The original
, 2011 9:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?
That engine was sold in various versions (4, 5, and 6 cylinder) from 1984
to 1995 or so. The original design was part # 14, and it failed in
service enough that by 1993 when the SDL was sold again it had the #17
head on it (nine
meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD is this an OK car?
That's a 14 head, if the digit you're not sure of is a 4.
Max
--
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity
'Just looked again. Head on my 87 300D is highly likely a 14; head on my 91
350SDL is clearly a 17.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 3:52 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD
Some of them last forever, some cracked in 50k miles. You have a
good one -- just don't ever let it get really hot, does them in every
time.
Peter
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it's a 4.
Is it in the right place in the number to denote 14, 16, etc., - 2 digits by
themselves.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD
Isn't their some concern with the 87 diesels? A certain problematic head or
something?
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The head is easily replaced. Else a standard W124 -- mine has about
350,000 miles on it and is doing pretty well for it's age!
Peter
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My brother found one he's interested in. Is there a specific head to look out
for? What is the problem with the heads?
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 30, 2011, at 7:28 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:
The head is easily replaced. Else a standard W124 -- mine has about 350,000
Well, the wagons look like a Ford Escort, according to someone here.
On 7/30/11, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
Isn't their some concern with the 87 diesels? A certain problematic head or
something?
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Actually I think they're quite nice looking. It's the mechanicals I'm concerned
about.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:05 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
Well, the wagons look like a Ford Escort, according to someone here.
On 7/30/11, Dimitri Seretakis
In the middle of the part number on the head is a two digit code --
the original is -14-. the first improved head is -17- and the best
version is the -22- one.
They crack through from the combustion chamber to the coolant and or
oil passages, causing the usual results -- overheating,
Wow, now that is the answer I was looking for! Thank you.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:16 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:
In the middle of the part number on the head is a two digit code -- the
original is -14-. the first improved head is -17- and the best version
Not that wagon. The newer ones, I forget the model but someone was selling
one here not long ago I think.
Mike
On Jul 30, 2011 8:05 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
Well, the wagons look like a Ford Escort, according to someone here.
On 7/30/11, Dimitri Seretakis
Marshall, or someone else, posited that they defective #14 heads have all
failed and been replaced by now. While not absolute, and overheating will
still crack good heads, I think there might be some merit to that statement.
The '87 SDL I had still had the original head at 200,000 miles and showed
OK, so did all 87s come with the 14 head and then later some had them replaced?
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:26 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
Wow, now that is the answer I was looking for! Thank you.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:16 PM, Peter
Yes. The later heads were also found on later cars - the 350SDL for example.
On Sat, Jul 30, 2011 at 7:55 PM, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.comwrote:
OK, so did all 87s come with the 14 head and then later some had them
replaced?
Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 30, 2011, at 8:26 PM,
That engine was sold in various versions (4, 5, and 6 cylinder) from
1984 to 1995 or so. The original design was part # 14, and it failed
in service enough that by 1993 when the SDL was sold again it had the
#17 head on it (nine years later(.
The #14 was used on all OM603 engines sold in
The Escort looking ones are like the e series wagon Kleb is going to look
at.
Mike
On Jul 30, 2011 8:05 PM, Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com wrote:
Well, the wagons look like a Ford Escort, according to someone here.
On 7/30/11, Dimitri Seretakis dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
Isn't
Michael Canfield wrote:
Not that wagon. The newer ones, I forget the model but someone was selling
one here not long ago I think.
Ohh, you think the 210 wagon looks like a y2k Escort, not that a 124 wagon looks
like a 1981 Escort. I guess the round headlights and hood are sort of similar.
Yes, you got it.
Mike
On Jul 30, 2011 10:01 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
Michael Canfield wrote:
Not that wagon. The newer ones, I forget the model but someone was
selling
one here not long ago I think.
Ohh, you think the 210 wagon looks like a y2k Escort, not that a 124 wagon
OK Don wrote:
Bottom line, if I didn't see signs of a cracked head, I would not be afraid
of the car.
... but would prefer to see evidence of a recent evaporator replacement.
Mitch.
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miles
'95 E300 280k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, March 16, 2011 2:05:35 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal
Max Dillon wrote:
I don't have a nice
Dieselvolk,
Can anyone provide the specifications for the shop-made slide rail pin pulling
tool? I think it is supposed to be a bolt 6mm in diameter with a nut and stack
of washer, but how long, how deep a washer stack, and are the threads 6mm x1.0
or some other dimension?
Very
Max Dillon wrote:
Dieselvolk,
Can anyone provide the specifications for the shop-made slide rail pin pulling
tool? I think it is supposed to be a bolt 6mm in diameter with a nut and stack
of washer, but how long, how deep a washer stack, and are the threads 6mm x1.0
or some other dimension?
...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, March 16, 2011 10:52:28 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '87 300TD head removal
Max Dillon wrote:
Dieselvolk,
Can anyone provide the specifications for the shop-made slide rail pin
pulling
tool? I think it is supposed to be a bolt 6mm
Max Dillon wrote:
I don't have a nice assortment to select from, so I'll need to go buy
something. You think it could be between 4, 5 and 6mm?
Oops, it looks like I guessed small. I thought the threaded hole was in the pin,
but it's only in the head of the pin, and is pretty large. Somebody
On my 87 300TD, cant get the hatch open. IIRC, I dont think they key
will turn, so Im thinking maybe its stuck in the lock position. Anybody
have a way of getting the hatch open? Anybody BTDT?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
89
Apply pressure to the lock line, that should pop it to the unlock
position.
Peter
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Needs trans.
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
No Afililliation, not mine (Damm!)
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Dieselitis Maximus
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On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 8:28 AM, Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Needs trans.
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
Wow, that dark blue looks great with the 16 210 wheels. Classy.
Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.
___
I bet that's not all it needs...
On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 11:41 AM, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
On Mon, Mar 10, 2008 at 8:28 AM, Frederick W Moir [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
Needs trans.
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
Wow, that dark blue looks great
Frederick W Moir wrote:
Needs trans.
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
If you can take it for a test drive w/o the owner, unplug the fuse
that drives the kickdown circuit and see what happens.
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Mitch, et al.
I would love to take it for a drive, but I have no budget for another
car right now. If anyone is seriously interested, it is in the next
town, close by, I could take pics, and kick tyres.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
http://boston.craigslist.org/nos/car/601340048.html
If you can take it
I wonder if I should sell my 1983 (282 K miles) 300TD, which needs about
$1500 in rust repair, or should I fix it up and keep it. I would like an 87
300TD if I could find a nice one that doesn't cost the earth. I imagine I
could get between $1500 and $2K for my wagon as is. Anybody willing to
break even
and hopefully even profit somewhat.
Randy who has the same issues with a 4Runner
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 11:22 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD
I
They are WAY overpriced. Better off just buying a 300TE instead and
saving alot of cash.
carbucks wrote:
Hi,
While I've been happy with my 85 and 83 300SDs, they don't suit our
lifestyle with the dog. Been researching the 87 300td. Looking for some
list wisdom on fair market value for
carbucks wrote:
Sounds like you got a lemon. Sold both my 2000 Jetta TDI and 2004 Golf
TDI after a couple of years of ownership and no maintenance hassle for
just slightly below what I paid for them new (exempting taxes).
That's exactly my problem with them. Asking prices for 3-4 year old
Hi,
While I've been happy with my 85 and 83 300SDs, they don't suit our
lifestyle with the dog. Been researching the 87 300td. Looking for some
list wisdom on fair market value for one in good to excellent condition.
Here's what I've discovered so far.
NADA ranges from $3950 to $8600
Original
carbucks wrote:
While I've been happy with my 85 and 83 300SDs, they don't suit our
lifestyle with the dog. Been researching the 87 300td. Looking for some
list wisdom on fair market value for one in good to excellent condition.
Here's what I've discovered so far.
There were less than 2000
carbucks wrote:
So paying $10k for a twenty plus year old car that only gets about half
the fuel mileage of a five year old Jetta does not add up. Factor in
rising fuel costs as well as the higher costs to maintain the Benz and
the arithmetic is even less in favor of the Benz.
Do you do
You might want to figure in to your equation that you can get early
90's E320 gas wagons in pristine condition for ~$2k. They will have
all wheel drive too. They take premium.
-Dave Walton
On Feb 13, 2008 2:16 PM, carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks, John. Nice looking TD.
Fuel is the
Thanks, John. Nice looking TD.
Fuel is the other cost I'm factoring in. According to
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/3565.shtml the 300td will get up
to 25 mpg and for 15000 annual miles @ $3/gal cost you $2239 per year.
For a few thousand more, I can pick up a Jetta Wagon TDI
There is also a Passat wagon which would be a bit bigger than the Jetta.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of dave walton
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 1:45 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300td wagon prices
I
I changed a transmission on a 2001 Jetta TDI. It was the job from
hell. I much prefer working on Mercedes. You need a computer just to
check the transmission fluid level.
The VW's are very light and tinny in my opinion. Although with 6 air
bags they might have a safety advantage depending on the
On Feb 13, 2008 11:33 AM, carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Good point. They get similar fuel mileage to the older diesels and have
better performance. The 300SDs are fine on the highway, but have trouble
keeping up with some city traffic.
Martin, have you driven an early-'90s diesel Jetta
Good point. They get similar fuel mileage to the older diesels and have
better performance. The 300SDs are fine on the highway, but have trouble
keeping up with some city traffic.
Martin
dave walton wrote:
You might want to figure in to your equation that you can get early
90's E320 gas
I do my own. Have two 300SDs. What I'm finding is they are taking up
more and more of my time.
I've had both VWs and Mercedes as well as BMWs. They share a number of
qualities. The VWs are less expensive to maintain and very few get close
to their mpg.
Martin
John Robbins wrote:
Do you do
On Feb 13, 2008 11:45 AM, dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I changed a transmission on a 2001 Jetta TDI. It was the job from
hell.
Wouldn't that be true of any kind of drivetrain work on a
front-wheel-drive car, though? Everything's all jammed up together
under the hood, after all, not
Lack of space. I finally found a use for those stubby drivers that
have been sitting in my toolbox unused.
The 4Matic MB has much more space, but it is just bigger all around.
-Dave Walton
On Feb 13, 2008 3:01 PM, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Feb 13, 2008 11:45 AM, dave walton
Price a set of rear SLS legs, or #22 head, or evaporator RR for the S124.
My '96 Passat tdi was a rock-solid reliable, economical and fun to drive
car. Much cheaper to keep than my Mercedes--damn, my Vanagon is even a
helluva lot cheaper to run than the TD. I think I keep the Merc for purely
carbucks [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
So paying $10k for a twenty plus year old car that only gets about
half the fuel mileage of a five year old Jetta does not add
up. Factor in rising fuel costs as well as the higher costs to
maintain the Benz and the arithmetic is even less in favor of the
Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Price a set of rear SLS legs, or #22 head, or evaporator RR for the
S124. My '96 Passat tdi was a rock-solid reliable, economical and
fun to drive car. Much cheaper to keep than my Mercedes--damn, my
Vanagon is even a helluva lot cheaper to run than the
On Wed, Feb 13, 2008 at 04:08:45PM -0500, Allan Streib wrote:
Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Price a set of rear SLS legs, or #22 head, or evaporator RR for the
S124. My '96 Passat tdi was a rock-solid reliable, economical and
fun to drive car. Much cheaper to keep than my
Kevin [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Having W123, W124, W201, and an A2 jetta, the jetta blows them all
away in terms of how cheap it is to keep on the road. The W123 was a
neglected car, so it's probably not a fair comparison. The W124 and
S124 were far FAR more expensive than them all.
I had an
Hi Alex,
I've had both a 2000 Jetta TDI and a 2004 Golf TDI . Much preferred the
Golf. Bought it new in the east (cheaper there) and drove it across the
country. In 2004 they got a bump in horsepower. That engine has about
the same amount of torque as the VR6.
My wife drove it 200 km a day
Another possibility, depending on where you live, is to get one with some
rust. The rust drops the value of the car GREATLY, and if you're in an area
where a rusty car won't really get worse, it's fine for a driver. My 85 190D
was such a car, and was really a bargain for what it was. What got
That's why I'm looking at a Jetta wagon TDI that's a few years old. The
largest part of the depreciation is gone and it will be good for another
ten years or so. By that time I'll have saved enough on fuel (over the
Benz) to buy another one.
I have an '82 Jetta that I bought brand new. At
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