Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-19 Thread Peter Frederick
They are shot, they die of old age.  If you want to check, look for ANY 
space between bar and bushing.  They fit, when new, by compression and 
there should be NO clearance at all.


Also check the brackets for the body mounts -- they tend to fracture 
and rattle.  Cheap and easy to replace, but you may have to take the 
sway bar off to see.


This is a very easy job -- on level ground, all you have to do is drop 
the body pan, unscrew the eight nuts, replace bushings, and re-install, 
no need to jack it up, just turn the front wheels for access at the 
control arm.  If the ground isn't level, however, getting the body 
mounts back on is a pain.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-19 Thread Peter Frederick
Bad control arm bushing will make the front tires wear badly and 
prevent a shop from performing a decent front end alignment.  Fairly 
easy to tell, as the control arm will move at the pivot end in 
directions other than on axis.  The noise will be similar to bad sway 
bar bushing ends except for when it occurs.


I'd expect excessive sensitivity to cross winds and wobbly steering as 
well.  Neither will be true of bad sway bar bushings.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-19 Thread Peter Frederick
Ball joints are cheap, installation on the W124 isn't bad, and driving 
with the front wheel unattached is often lethal.  Replace if at ALL in 
doubt, they usually have excessive play long before they die.


Squeaks on turning the wheel is either ball joints or steering linkage, 
nothing else is turned (the struts don't squeak if bad, just leak out 
all the oil).


I have had ball joints make clunking (chuckling) noises on rough 
pavement, but not on a Benz -- my Volvo had almost half an inch of play 
in the joint when I jacked it up.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-19 Thread brian toscano
You could remove the sway bar and see if the noise goes away. :)

Sway bar bushings usually clunk going over rail road tracks and things
like that.

Bushings are hard to test and are often misdiagnosed.

Its important to remember that AGE also kills rubber - its not just
the miles.  We don't drive around with 14 year old tires even if they
have 500 miles on them.

Brian



On 11/18/05, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi John,

 IMO, sway bar bushings are inspected visually, not by hardness. If
 they are sloppy and deformed, so the bar is not tightly held in the
 bushing, they should be replaced. The old style was plain rubber. The
 new ones (from the DEALER, not aftermarket) have a Teflon lining on
 the inside to reduce noise. I doubt this is the cause of your clunk,
 but it's cheap and easy and sure wouldn't hurt to replace. Here's a
 photo of worn-out bushings on my E500 with 90kmi... new bushings in
 the rear, old bushings in the front. Note the old ones are deformed:

 http://www.w124performance.com/images/cars/94_E500/restoration/sway_bar_bushings.jpg

 Could you tell us more about the clunking noise? Is it under braking,
 or with vertical suspension movement, etc? All the time or
 intermittent?

 :-)

 +dm

  --
  Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 08:11:35 -0500
  From: John Peterson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Subject: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?
 
 
  Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested that
  I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, $30,
  and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer says
  new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get
  rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber hard,
  but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are
  coming from
 
  John Peterson
  Kingston RI  91 300D 2.5 74k




Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread Marshall Booth

John Peterson wrote:
Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested that 
I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, $30, 
and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer says 
new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get 
rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber hard, 
but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are 
coming from


Sway bar bushing failures were VERY common in '80s 124s - usually at 
between 50-100kmi (I've not driven more than two '90s 124s and the were 
cherry). The bushings were revised (don't know when) but the new style 
will fail too, just not quite as soon. If you drive slowly over an 
uneven surface (a slightly uneven parking lot) at about 10-15 mph, they 
will clunk/rattle when  bad. I know of NO way to describe a bad one 
except by the noise that the ones I've heard have made. You could find a 
mechanic that has done a hundred of them - I expect he can look at 'em 
and tell you if they are bad.


Bad control arm bushings in 201/124s never made that noise when driving 
slowly over uneven surfaces in the cars I drove.


You MAY have bad control arm bushings, but I don't think they are making 
the noise that I think you are describing.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread Christopher McCann
if the ball joint boot is split (not always very  obvious), you can diagnose it 
by hosing the living hell out if it with  a garden hose (do one at a time, 
starting with the lower)...go over  your normal clunking bumps and dips...if 
still clunking, continue the  process until you find that you have located the 
bad ball joint OR that  it's NOT the ball joints. I would esp. recommend this 
if you have  noticed that the clunking is less or gone during heavy rains.
  
  It works, I did it. Not my idea, Henry Kolesnik gets the credit...who I  have 
not seen on the list for a long time...too bad. Maybe we scared  him off at the 
OkieQ.
  
  Chris

Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Christopher typeth:

you can try the water test on the ball  joints...

Water test?

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 143K
Litchfield Park, AZ

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2005 11:51:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Wow. Thanks for the info. Right, we can't  definitively deduce poor mileage 
from this, but I would not be  surprised if this is a big piece of the puzzle.
  
  Chris

John Robbins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
 crappy post Katria fuel and funky odo have been my  pet theories as
 to why my mpgs have gone down recently too (on the SD).  Not cold

A few days after the hurricane the EPA came out with relaxed regulations 
for diesel and gasoline as a temporary measure so everyone could get 
fuel ASAP.  Gasoline volatility requirements were relaxed and diesel 
sulfer requirements were relaxed.  Dunno how long the temporary 
regulations were supposed to last (IIRC a month or so) or if that can 
even change you're mileage

I've been getting horrible fuel mileage (17), but I think that there is 
a slight possibility of it being the fuel leaking from the IP and an 
injector ;)

G'luck with it!

John
'79 300SD

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

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Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread Lee Levitt

Hey, good news. I've got bad sway bar bushings too!

I'm going to take this opportunity to upgrade my sway bars to a pair of
Sportsline bars...

Wonder if they make a Sportsline central locking system (my trunk doesn't
lock/unlock with the driver's door...)

Lee
'93 300D 2.5L turbodiesel 179K

Chris writes:
 
 you can try the water test on the ball  joints...never 
 hurts and costs nothing. That's how I diagnosed my  
 clunk...but that was at about 195K miles
   
   Chris
 
 Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  John Peterson wrote:
  Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, 
 someone suggested 
  that I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are 
  cheap, $30, and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the 
  clunk (dealer says new control arms and bushings but I 
 doubt this at 
  74k) I am trying to get rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway 
  bushings?  I found the rubber hard, but not rock hard.  It is very 
  hard to tell where front end sounds are coming from
 
 Sway bar bushing failures were VERY common in '80s 124s - 
 usually at between 50-100kmi (I've not driven more than two 
 '90s 124s and the were cherry). The bushings were revised 
 (don't know when) but the new style will fail too, just not 
 quite as soon. If you drive slowly over an uneven surface (a 
 slightly uneven parking lot) at about 10-15 mph, they will 
 clunk/rattle when  bad. I know of NO way to describe a bad 
 one except by the noise that the ones I've heard have made. 
 You could find a mechanic that has done a hundred of them - I 
 expect he can look at 'em and tell you if they are bad.
 
 Bad control arm bushings in 201/124s never made that noise 
 when driving slowly over uneven surfaces in the cars I drove.
 
 You MAY have bad control arm bushings, but I don't think they 
 are making the noise that I think you are describing.
 
 Marshall
 -- 
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, 
 '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi
 
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 Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
 -2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
 -1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
 -1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf 
 -1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
 -1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
 -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, 
 One Banger
   
 -
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Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread Marshall Booth

Christopher McCann wrote:

if the ball joint boot is split (not always very  obvious), you can diagnose it by hosing 
the living hell out if it with  a garden hose (do one at a time, starting with the 
lower)...go over  your normal clunking bumps and dips...if still clunking, 
continue the  process until you find that you have located the bad ball joint OR that  
it's NOT the ball joints. I would esp. recommend this if you have  noticed that the 
clunking is less or gone during heavy rains.
  
  It works, I did it. Not my idea, Henry Kolesnik gets the credit...who I  have not seen on the list for a long time...too bad. Maybe we scared  him off at the OkieQ.
  


ONCE a ball joint boot is split REPLACE the ball joint - don't pass go - 
don't collect $200 - just replace the ball joint. NEVER just replace the 
boot. Once the boot has failed, the joint is ruined. Ball joints are 
cheap ($25-35) and after you've had one fail (front wheel almost 
horizontal on the ground is NOT pretty), you realize just how foolish it 
is to NOT replace one that's questionable. Almost all ball joint 
failures in 124/201s start with squeaks on dry days when the front end 
is moved up or down OR with the steering being abnormally stiff (like 
the power steering is getting weak)!


When I was learning to diagnose possible ball joint failures I did 
inject grease/oil into a ball joint boot (it quieted the joint before 
I'd driven 200 yards) and sealed the hole with silicone RTV. I drove the 
car for several months before I replaced the joints, but I would NOT 
recommend doing that.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread TimothyPilgrim
Are you saying that if a car squeaks in the front when the moves up
and down (think of a speed hump) that means it's the ball joint? How
about the suspension?

Tim
1982 300TD Moby

On 11/18/05, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Christopher McCann wrote:
  if the ball joint boot is split (not always very  obvious), you can 
  diagnose it by hosing the living hell out if it with  a garden hose (do one 
  at a time, starting with the lower)...go over  your normal clunking bumps 
  and dips...if still clunking, continue the  process until you find that 
  you have located the bad ball joint OR that  it's NOT the ball joints. I 
  would esp. recommend this if you have  noticed that the clunking is less or 
  gone during heavy rains.
 
It works, I did it. Not my idea, Henry Kolesnik gets the credit...who I  
  have not seen on the list for a long time...too bad. Maybe we scared  him 
  off at the OkieQ.
 

 ONCE a ball joint boot is split REPLACE the ball joint - don't pass go -
 don't collect $200 - just replace the ball joint. NEVER just replace the
 boot. Once the boot has failed, the joint is ruined. Ball joints are
 cheap ($25-35) and after you've had one fail (front wheel almost
 horizontal on the ground is NOT pretty), you realize just how foolish it
 is to NOT replace one that's questionable. Almost all ball joint
 failures in 124/201s start with squeaks on dry days when the front end
 is moved up or down OR with the steering being abnormally stiff (like
 the power steering is getting weak)!

 When I was learning to diagnose possible ball joint failures I did
 inject grease/oil into a ball joint boot (it quieted the joint before
 I'd driven 200 yards) and sealed the hole with silicone RTV. I drove the
 car for several months before I replaced the joints, but I would NOT
 recommend doing that.

 Marshall
 --
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
 turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread Marshall Booth

TimothyPilgrim wrote:

Are you saying that if a car squeaks in the front when the moves up
and down (think of a speed hump) that means it's the ball joint? How
about the suspension?


I'm saying that squeaking USUALLY involves ball joints. Then I jack up 
the car and try to lift the wheel using a LONG bar and if there's 
detectable movement, the ball joint needs to be replaced. Once you've 
felt it, it's easy to detect the ball moving excessively within it's 
socket. I can't otherwise describe it.


Every car I've owned that squeaked (3 201s), had bad ball joints (maybe 
I was just lucky). Not all bad ball joints squeak (two of mine didn't)! 
Four mechanics I know (that have been working on Mercedes for a combined 
total of 100 years) agree that when the front end squeaks, USUALLY the 
ball joints are bad - could be other things also - but the ball joints 
are usually bad. That what they check first and USUALLY the ball joints 
are bad.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi




Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread Christopher McCann
agree on the quick repair - another list member  reported months back on a 
relative who kept injecting grease until the  joint broke - not something you 
want happening at any speed above, oh  15 mph. Luckily for the injector in 
question, the joint broke while  backing out of a driveway.
  
  Chris

Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
  if the ball joint boot is split (not always very obvious), you can  diagnose 
 it by hosing the living hell out if it with a garden hose (do  one at a time, 
 starting with the lower)...go over your normal clunking  bumps and 
 dips...if still clunking, continue the process until you  find that you have 
 located the bad ball joint OR that it's NOT the ball  joints. I would esp. 
 recommend this if you have noticed that the  clunking is less or gone during 
 heavy rains.
   
 It  works, I did it. Not my idea, Henry Kolesnik gets the credit...who I  
 have not seen on the list for a long time...too bad. Maybe we scared  him off 
 at the OkieQ.
   

ONCE a ball joint boot is split REPLACE the ball joint - don't pass go - 
don't collect $200 - just replace the ball joint. NEVER just replace the 
boot. Once the boot has failed, the joint is ruined. Ball joints are 
cheap ($25-35) and after you've had one fail (front wheel almost 
horizontal on the ground is NOT pretty), you realize just how foolish it 
is to NOT replace one that's questionable. Almost all ball joint 
failures in 124/201s start with squeaks on dry days when the front end 
is moved up or down OR with the steering being abnormally stiff (like 
the power steering is getting weak)!

When I was learning to diagnose possible ball joint failures I did 
inject grease/oil into a ball joint boot (it quieted the joint before 
I'd driven 200 yards) and sealed the hole with silicone RTV. I drove the 
car for several months before I replaced the joints, but I would NOT 
recommend doing that.

Marshall
-- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
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no, if it CLUNKS, it MIGHT be the ball joints.  Could be other things too. The 
water test helps to eliminate the ball  joint possibility.
  
  Chris

TimothyPilgrim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Are you saying that if a car squeaks 
in the front when the moves up
and down (think of a speed hump

Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread John Peterson

Thank you all for your comments- wow, what a response!  Here is an update.

The sound can be described as the kind of sound / clunk that one would get 
by taking a rubber mallet and hitting the underside frame of the car while 
driving.  It makes this sound when EITHER wheel hits an uneven patch of 
road.  It is a kind of thump and hollow sound.


Another obversation- the car tracks perfectly, as good as it gets.

I'm going to go ahead and change the sway bar bushing out- they look a bit 
loose. Can I just take the bar off for a test?  The bushings are cheap, but 
take a week to get.




Thank for continued help.  John

John Petesron
'91 300D 2.5 74k
- Original Message - 
From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?



John Peterson wrote:
Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested 
that
I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, 
$30,
and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer 
says

new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get
rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber 
hard,

but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are
coming from


There seems to be a rush to condemn the ball joints now. I've NEVER
experienced clunks on bumps at low speeds when the ball joints were
bad (but if they are REALLY bad they could I suppose). That HAS been a
consistent presenting symptom with bad sway bar bushings. Bad ball
joints (as well as bad rear suspension links) do permit the front end to
seem nervous requiring a lot of attention when driving at highway
speeds. In my experience, ball joints outlast sway bar bushings by at
least 3:1. Control arm bushings and ball joints usually last AT LEAST
200kmi miles (and can last a lot longer if you drive 20+kmi a year).
Early sway bar bushings however, often failed after 4-6 years and even
the revised ones might not be expected to last more than 100-150kmi. I
have revised bushings on two cars, but they don't have even 75kmi on
them and that's true of MOST people that have replaced the bushings on 
124s.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
turbo 237kmi

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Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?

2005-11-18 Thread Christopher McCann
Is this a W126?
  
  Chris

John Peterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  Thank you all for your comments- wow, 
what a response!  Here is an update.

The sound can be described as the kind of sound / clunk that one would get 
by taking a rubber mallet and hitting the underside frame of the car while 
driving.  It makes this sound when EITHER wheel hits an uneven patch of 
road.  It is a kind of thump and hollow sound.

Another obversation- the car tracks perfectly, as good as it gets.

I'm going to go ahead and change the sway bar bushing out- they look a bit 
loose. Can I just take the bar off for a test?  The bushings are cheap, but 
take a week to get.



Thank for continued help.  John

John Petesron
'91 300D 2.5 74k
- Original Message - 
From: Marshall Booth 
To: Mercedes mailing list 
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2005 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 Sway Bar Bushings?


 John Peterson wrote:
 Regarding my front end clunk on bumps at low speeds, someone suggested 
 that
 I check / replace the front anti-sway bar bushings.  Parts are cheap, 
 $30,
 and it is DIY job.  Does anyone think this could be the clunk (dealer 
 says
 new control arms and bushings but I doubt this at 74k) I am trying to get
 rid of?  Any way to test the anti-sway bushings?  I found the rubber 
 hard,
 but not rock hard.  It is very hard to tell where front end sounds are
 coming from

 There seems to be a rush to condemn the ball joints now. I've NEVER
 experienced clunks on bumps at low speeds when the ball joints were
 bad (but if they are REALLY bad they could I suppose). That HAS been a
 consistent presenting symptom with bad sway bar bushings. Bad ball
 joints (as well as bad rear suspension links) do permit the front end to
 seem nervous requiring a lot of attention when driving at highway
 speeds. In my experience, ball joints outlast sway bar bushings by at
 least 3:1. Control arm bushings and ball joints usually last AT LEAST
 200kmi miles (and can last a lot longer if you drive 20+kmi a year).
 Early sway bar bushings however, often failed after 4-6 years and even
 the revised ones might not be expected to last more than 100-150kmi. I
 have revised bushings on two cars, but they don't have even 75kmi on
 them and that's true of MOST people that have replaced the bushings on 
 124s.

 Marshall
 -- 
   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
   der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
 turbo 237kmi

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, Rose
-1987 300TD, 150K, Rotkäppchen
-1985 300SD, 209K, Wulf 
-1976 240D, ?K, AKP-Wagen (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21 Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38 deck, Snowcaster, One Banger

-
 Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.  
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