Sachs are OEM on the W124s, work just like Bilsteins.
Peter
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FYI, I have new Bilsteins at all 4 corners - they made a huge
difference in the stance of the car! Before it was 1/2" lower on
the passenger side but the new shocks corrected that. If you think
all shocks are the same, compare a Bilstein to a Monroe! The shaft
on the Monroe is approx 5/8" di
For what it's worth, my '95 sedan measures 15.5 inches from star cap
center to outer bump of fender lip.
Slight negative camber. All links and spring pad relatively fresh,
but subframe bushings are probably original. Tire wear is even.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
On March 2
FYI, I have new Bilsteins at all 4 corners - they made a huge difference
in the stance of the car! Before it was 1/2" lower on the passenger
side but the new shocks corrected that. If you think all shocks are the
same, compare a Bilstein to a Monroe! The shaft on the Monroe is approx
5/8" di
For what it's worth, my '95 sedan measures 15.5 inches from star cap center to
outer bump of fender lip.
Slight negative camber. All links and spring pad relatively fresh, but
subframe bushings are probably original. Tire wear is even.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
On March
On Fri, Mar 20, 2015 at 4:45 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Does anyone know? Peter perhaps? On a 124, is there normally a rubber
> shim below the rear spring? Mine has never had any since I got it. That
> may be the root of the problem.
>
No, but I know where
"Nother ATTABOY!
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: "Curly McLain via Mercedes"
To: "Mercedes Discussion List"
Sent: Friday, March 20, 2015 6:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 camber
Took it out fora short drive. I think it finally
is the suspension the 124
Very nice! Great price too!
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300
On March 20, 2015 6:47:02 PM EDT, Curly McLain via Mercedes
wrote:
>Took it out fora short drive. I think it finally
>is the suspension the 124 is supposed to be. I
>am sure Dave M could make it better for a pile o
Took it out fora short drive. I think it finally
is the suspension the 124 is supposed to be. I
am sure Dave M could make it better for a pile o
cash, but I think it is very close to factory new
now.Cost me $12.
After the drive, I measured the ride height
again. It has settled down to
Does anyone know? Peter perhaps? On a 124, is there normally a
rubber shim below the rear spring? Mine has never had any since I
got it. That may be the root of the problem. The top has new ones
with 3 nubs on it. Those were new when I replaced everything else.
Overkill?
I put about 1.2
Is this your pride and joy, or a beater, or something in between?
If you cannot fix it in what you think is the normal and proper way, you
might consider bending the control arm.
You say that the lower arm acts like it is stretched. If you arced it a
bit, it would shorten the arm.
The old Ford
I may have some of those bolt kits.
If you use a base height of 14.5" and then use the MB chart, which in
this case, (124.133) shows +30mm, it makes sense. The 14.5 +30mm
gives you a ride height of about 15.7 to 16" Based on some posts
from other 124 owners, the 15.5 to 16 range seems commo
Here is a nice informational page, includes the part number for the special
kit to adjust the camber:
http://www.continentalimports.com/ser_ic4232.html
bolt kit (part #210 330 00 18)
This kit is meant for 202 and later chassis, but I'll bet it will also work
on a 124 chassis.
-Max
_
Everything I've found in the manual for measuring chassis height calls for
special tools (section 40 of the FSM).
See post #4 in this thread for some ideas about making your own "special
tools":
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/284337-how-i-adjusted-toe-out-camber-caster-my-w
Spec I have seen in the manual is center to fender lip. That is what
Dave is measuring too. mine is 14.5" rear.
going to 15.5 to 16 looks like if should cure the camber issue.
I've seen it in the manual when looking for other things. Now I
can't find it when I am looking... Murphy again.
The heights in the TDM used to be from the ground to the top of the wheel arch.
Dan
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 20, 2015, at 10:56 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Anybody know the spec or the manual section number for the measurement of the
> body height?
>
> I am looking for the
Anybody know the spec or the manual section number for the
measurement of the body height?
I am looking for the measurement from the center of the axle to the wheel arch.
Dave M has a picture of 13.5 to 14", on a 500E, but He likes
sportline and that is a different measurement.
What I have f
Another idea: Check with your FLAPS and online for the spring spacers that
you can insert between coils without removing the spring / spring pad.
Friend at work used those quite successfully on an old Datsun 300Z to
correct the same problem. Dealer predicted disaster, wanted to sell him
all kinds
I put in new shims the last time the links were replaced, along with
the subframe bushings, LCAs and shocks. I could try thicker shims.
I've replaced springs before, to no avail. They don't get sprung.
they do crack on occasion.
Spring pads can and will compress over time. I'm getting rea
Spring pads can and will compress over time. I'm getting ready to replace the
pads on the 95 S500, as it sits a bit low in the back based both on visual and
measured height.
On point to note: MB can't tell you what spring pad is on your car, as they are
fit during production based on the height
I think the next step is replacing the rear springs and making sure the
spring pads are correct. You may have to go to a thicker spring pad. Is
all the mounting hardware at the top of the shock absorbers correct?
Is there a kit to replace one of the bushings/links to provide a camber
adjustment?
I would think the most accurate way to check the normal height of the car front
and back and side to side would be to measure the height above a flat surface
of the box beams on each side of the car. Eyeballing heights can be innacurate.
Gerry
> What is the condition of the bearing in the wheel
What is the condition of the bearing in the wheel carrier? They do go
bad, and can cause both loose rear end sensations and excessivve
camber. I'm in the process of replacing them on all three W124s.
They usually creak too.
Also check ride height -- if the rear is low due to weak shocks or
> Curly wrote:
>
> The rear wheels on my 124 300D have had a camber problem since i
> got it maybe 9 yrs ago. I replaced the rear subframe bushings,
> and all the links and bushings a couple years ago. It still has
> too much camber. tops in, bottoms out.
> Any ideas how to correct or fix the
I would still suspect the springs - new shocks and new springs and you
should be good to go, what else is there to replace? Just finish throwing
money at it :-)
On Thu, Mar 19, 2015 at 10:53 PM, archer75--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> Have you replaced the back pressurized sh
On Thu, 19 Mar 2015 22:35:38 -0500
Curly McLain via Mercedes wrote:
>
>
> The rear wheels on my 124 300D have had a camber problem since i got
> it maybe 9 yrs ago. I replaced the rear subframe bushings, and all
> the links and bushings a couple years ago. It still has too much
> camber.
The rear wheels on my 124 300D have had a camber problem since i got
it maybe 9 yrs ago. I replaced the rear subframe bushings, and all
the links and bushings a couple years ago. It still has too much
camber. tops in, bottoms out.
supposedly the camber is not adjustable. All parts were
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