Re: [MBZ] 201 ball joint

2005-09-22 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

How do you folks get the joint out in the first place?

Peter Frederick wrote:


We bent the press on the W126 ball joint, it's much harder to get to.

You need an adapter tube of some sort for removal -- a pile of big 
washer will work.  The adapters with the Harbor Freight tool work going 
back in.


Ball joint RR isn't bad, you can leave the spring in IF you set the 
control arm down on a jack stand so the weight of the car stays on the 
spring.  You CANNOT remove the control arm this way, and CANNOT do the 
bushings unless you have an internal spring compressor like a Klann.  
The strut is self aligning, so you don't have to worry about getting it 
back in right.


However, you must use an alignment shop familiar with Benz strut type 
front ends, or you will very likely have a car that drives squirrely 
and eats front tires due to excessive toein.


Peter


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[MBZ] 201 ball joint

2005-09-21 Thread Ron Dwelle
I've got a bad ball joint on my 190D euro. I think that RRing it, 
along with the alignment, is beyond my capabilities. My good local indy 
wants $270, using MB parts. The local mcparts shop wants half that, 
using NAPA parts.


Is the MBparts  alignment worth twice the mcparts?

Thanks,
Ron Dwelle




Re: [MBZ] 201 ball joint

2005-09-21 Thread Kevin
On Wed, Sep 21, 2005 at 04:56:08PM -0400, Ron Dwelle wrote:
 I've got a bad ball joint on my 190D euro. I think that RRing it, 
 along with the alignment, is beyond my capabilities. My good local indy 
 wants $270, using MB parts. The local mcparts shop wants half that, 
 using NAPA parts.
 
 Is the MBparts  alignment worth twice the mcparts?

The parts may or may not be worth it - the mercedes part is likely a trw 
joint, which is likely what napa will end up with.

The catch comes with the alignment, which is likely the only thing worth 
paying a dealer to service. Most shops can't deal with the fact that 
mercedes have centering pins in the steering that should be used, should
have a spreader bar used because the linkage is behind the steering (though
a really sharp tech can get around this), and because there is SO much
adjustment available in not only the front but also the rear that everything
has to be spot on or it won't align correctly.

Removing and replacing is likely a piece of cake. Since you've already 
resolved yourself to getting an alignment, get your hands on a spring 
compressor and remove the lower control arm, which is fairly easy to do if
you don't have a really rusty car. If the bushing on the LCA is tired, you
have two ways you can go - call up rusty and order an LCA (which comes loaded
with a ball joint and bushing), or just replace the bushing as well. A tired
bushing will make it difficult to align the car. If the bushing is fine,
take the LCA down to a shop and have them pop out the old joint and press a
new one in. They'll probably want somewhere between $20 and $40 to do that
work for you. Then bolt the LCA back in, and get the car aligned.

The other option is getting the joint out yourself with a press. The proper
tool will probably cost a pretty penny, but I have heard of people popping
the joint out with a harbor freight ball joint kit. One of them actually
bent the press though.

If you do one side, you should inspect the other side. I did not do this 
on the front of my 190D yet, but you should. If one went, the other is
probably getting tired, and you'll save in the long run in not needing another
alignment.

K



Re: [MBZ] 201 ball joint

2005-09-21 Thread Peter Frederick

We bent the press on the W126 ball joint, it's much harder to get to.

You need an adapter tube of some sort for removal -- a pile of big 
washer will work.  The adapters with the Harbor Freight tool work going 
back in.


Ball joint RR isn't bad, you can leave the spring in IF you set the 
control arm down on a jack stand so the weight of the car stays on the 
spring.  You CANNOT remove the control arm this way, and CANNOT do the 
bushings unless you have an internal spring compressor like a Klann.  
The strut is self aligning, so you don't have to worry about getting it 
back in right.


However, you must use an alignment shop familiar with Benz strut type 
front ends, or you will very likely have a car that drives squirrely 
and eats front tires due to excessive toein.


Peter