Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[David Brodbeck]

Jim Cathey wrote:
> The floats in the 115 are much harder/messier to get out.  I suppose
> someday I'll have a look.
>   

I ran a couple tanks of B100 in my '83 300D and the fuel gauge suddenly
started working better.  Probably had something to do with all the black
crud that promptly plugged up my fuel filter.  Might be worth a try. My
low fuel light still didn't work, but from the way it would randomly
flicker I think the wires were broken.

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Loren Faeth]

Try dumping the killer/cleanup dose of algicide in the tank and then use 
the maintenance dosage for 2-3 tanks and see what happens.  The Stanadyne 
stuff works good.


At 08:47 PM 1/25/2007, you wrote:

> I believe that Marshall once said that removal and cleaning can often
> get
> that thing working again.  Remove all the scum and seaweed there, and
> you
> might be done.

The floats in the 115 are much harder/messier to get out.  I suppose
someday I'll have a look.

-- Jim


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Loren Faeth 

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Jim Cathey]

I believe that Marshall once said that removal and cleaning can often 
get
that thing working again.  Remove all the scum and seaweed there, and 
you

might be done.


The floats in the 115 are much harder/messier to get out.  I suppose
someday I'll have a look.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Zeitgeist]

Barnacles and plankton are your enemies

On 1/25/07, Chris Kueny <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I believe that Marshall once said that removal and cleaning can often get
that thing working again.  Remove all the scum and seaweed there, and you
might be done.



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler/propane #22 0-60mph 7.3sec (222k)
'84 300D (219k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
'89 Audi 90Q (202k)
'94 Audi 100CS Quattro Avant (117k)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Chris Kueny]

I believe that Marshall once said that removal and cleaning can often get 
that thing working again.  Remove all the scum and seaweed there, and you 
might be done.


Chris Kueny ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
78 Chevy Custom deluxe
'85 300TD
'02 Subaru Outback



I checked my low-fuel bulb, and it's good.  I went back to the trunk
and pulled the connector to the sender, and shorting out the correct
two pins lit the lamp.  So, either the sender's bad, or I had a bad
connection at the bulb that was rectified by the laying on of hands.
We'll see.

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[jwreames]

Algae corpses blocking contact with the contact?
-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> I checked my low-fuel bulb, and it's good. I went back to the trunk 
> and pulled the connector to the sender, and shorting out the correct 
> two pins lit the lamp. So, either the sender's bad, or I had a bad 
> connection at the bulb that was rectified by the laying on of hands. 
> We'll see. 
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Glenn needs to send posts to the list as plain text.

andrew strasfogel wrote:
> I keep on getting a "server error" for this link.  What gives?
> 
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-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Jim Cathey]

Diesel: Tastes better than gas!
Try tasting model engine fuel, YUCK!  I had this one engine...


Castor oil and methanol?  Yuck is right.  Maybe your fuel
was worse than that.  It smells terrible when burned, I
can't imagine it's any better 'raw'.  Of the common liquid
(not liquified) fuels, I prefer diesel's smell, raw or not.

I checked my low-fuel bulb, and it's good.  I went back to the trunk
and pulled the connector to the sender, and shorting out the correct
two pins lit the lamp.  So, either the sender's bad, or I had a bad
connection at the bulb that was rectified by the laying on of hands.
We'll see.

I tightened the trunk latch, which was starting to come unscrewed, and
greased it.  It was starting to get sticky, it seems better now.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[kevin kraly]

Diesel: Tastes better than gas!

Try tasting model engine fuel, YUCK!  I had this one engine that would clog 
up at the carburetor after sitting idle for extended periods.  I either had 
to pressurize the tank, clean out the inlet with a small Allen wrench, or 
both to get it to run which would inevitably result in fuel in mouth 
syndrome.  I ain't never tasted Diesel and don't plan to, LOL!


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula 

[MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Jim Cathey]

Yes, the low-fuel light is definitely not working.  Absolutely
certainly.  Ran out of fuel today after work going to pick up my son.
Of course it's freezing cold, and dark, and I managed to roll to a
stop in the middle of a bunch of half-frozen mud puddles in a side
lot.  Walked to a nearby gas station, twice, since the little 1-gallon
jug that was all they had for sale didn't put enough back in the tank
to get a prime going.  The clapped-out primer pump on the engine was
nearly unable to pump, but I was able to remove the banjo bolt on the
fuel return line and blow in it to pressurize the fuel tank.  (Yay,
toolkit!)  With that and lots of pumping I was eventually able to get
some semblance of priming going, albeit with lots of leaks at the pump
and a nice spray on me from the removed banjo bolt.  Many starting
attempts and extended grinding of the starter were required, I was
really surprised at the stamina of that crappy used battery I have.
It was nearly empty when it finally fired up.

Once I got it started again I ran it to the station and filled it up.
Left it running on high idle during the fillup, didn't want to risk a
shutdown.  I also left it running while I picked up my boy, over an
hour late.  When I got the car home I put the charger on it to
complete the replenishment.  Really need to replace that primer pump,
and I ought to look into the lamp situation.  (I'd like to retrofit a
lamp-test function like the newer cars have.)

Diesel: Tastes better than gas!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Jim Cathey]

Ok, your "weather report" has officially given me second thoughts 
about the
fun factor in my planned biz trip down to Walla Walla next week.  I'll 
be

riding high in a state-issued Taurus.


Whee.  If you're lucky the arctic blast may have passed, but who knows?


What's a 12V-2A SMPS?


12-volt, 2-ampere switch-mode power supply.

More status:

...Well, it doesn't really read higher on the gauge, and the IR
thermometer says it's maybe 10oF hotter than before.  I guess
that's an improvement, but I do believe I need to block the radiator
in this weather, I think air cooling is working too effectively!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Zeitgeist]

Ok, your "weather report" has officially given me second thoughts about the
fun factor in my planned biz trip down to Walla Walla next week.  I'll be
riding high in a state-issued Taurus.

What's a 12V-2A SMPS?

On 1/13/07, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


January 12, 2007

I bought a 'new' 12V-2A SMPS at the thrift shop yesterday, complete
with an old portable Canon inkjet printer, and today I reinstalled
that part of the preheating system.  Works fine, except that the
heater blower is shrieking sometimes...



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler/propane #22 0-60mph 7.3sec (220k)
'84 300D (218k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Jim Cathey]

Now you need to calibrate son for proper use of correctly operating 
door,

correct?


Should be easy, just tell him he can open his own door now.
Some things he learns quickly!  :-)  Especially with "Open
it yourself" applied a time or two.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Bob Rentfro]

Jim explained:

"The rear door my son usually uses was really quite messed up, and the
latch was prone to freezing up.  I took the door apart, and found that
yes indeed the vapor barriers were non-functional.  I removed the
latch and solvent-tanked it to remove all the old gummy gritty
lubricant, then blew it dry.  All the moving bits got a nice coating
of M1 5W20 from my oil can, whereupon it all started working _much_
nicer.  Reinstalled, and with the striker adjusted a bit, the door now
works perfectly.  The vapor barriers are also glued back into place."

Now you need to calibrate son for proper use of correctly operating door, 
correct?


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 165K
'87 Acura Legend  1780
Litchfield Park, AZ

[MBZ] Frankenheap status

[Jim Cathey]

January 12, 2007

I bought a 'new' 12V-2A SMPS at the thrift shop yesterday, complete
with an old portable Canon inkjet printer, and today I reinstalled
that part of the preheating system.  Works fine, except that the
heater blower is shrieking sometimes.  I _must_ get that taken care of
soon before that blower motor gets ruined.  Replacing those is
extremely difficult.  (Merely lubricating it is no picnic, either.)

The rear door my son usually uses was really quite messed up, and the
latch was prone to freezing up.  I took the door apart, and found that
yes indeed the vapor barriers were non-functional.  I removed the
latch and solvent-tanked it to remove all the old gummy gritty
lubricant, then blew it dry.  All the moving bits got a nice coating
of M1 5W20 from my oil can, whereupon it all started working _much_
nicer.  Reinstalled, and with the striker adjusted a bit, the door now
works perfectly.  The vapor barriers are also glued back into place.

As an extra bonus, I found that the reason the inside door release
wasn't working is because the latch has a child safety switch, a small
sliding (when cleaned and lubricated!) button on the latch plate.  Who
knew?  This was in the wrong position.

...After sitting out in the cold all day at work (no noontime journey)
it got in a pretty good cold soak: never above freezing today, windy,
and probably about 10oF when I went to start.  I had to glow twice,
and crank for several seconds each time to get it started.  Really I
just needed to glow some extra the first time, but I don't have a lot
of arctic experience with this type of system.  Fortunately the weenie
battery was up to it.

In this kind of weather it takes a good long time to heat the cabin.
When I got home I measured the head temperature, with the gauge at
about 80oC the IR thermometer indicated about 150oF at the sender.  At
least one is reading wrong, but they're _both_ lower than they ought
to be, which would adversely impact cabin heat, fuel economy, and
engine longevity.  Time to install that new thermostat!

January 13, 2007

B!  1.8oF outside this morning, about 8oF in the garage: perfect
weather for changing a thermostat.  Not.  With two space heaters
pointed at me it wasn't too bad, so long as I didn't move ouside their
sphere of influence.  (One was an old-style radiant heater of a kind I
remember my grandma had, it was definitely better for this purpose
than the other one.  $7 at the thrift shop.)  Anyway, the job went
easily, the thermostat housing on this engine is right out front and
on top, I can't imagine this job being any easier.  The most difficult
part of the job was cleaning out the threads of the housing since the
tap wrench didn't fit in there and I had to use an open-end wrench,
which is slow.  The housing was clean inside, no signs of bad
corrosion.  The old thermostat was German and marked 80oC, but it had
no bleed hole.  The new one was marked 79oC and had a jiggle valve,
which I made sure was uphill.  With all threads clean, bolts and
housing, it went back together easily.  I just re-used the (green)
coolant, this spring I want to flush the system out properly.  It's
just too damned cold for that kind of thing right now.

We'll see in a bit whether this fixed the problem or not.

-- Jim