I had several surges when I first moved in, destroying several pieces of
electronics. The main problem then was that someone had connected the main
power ground to one of the lightning rod grounds. Removing that jumper solved
a lot. Now I have a Duke Power suppressor under the meter, suppress
I have Goldstar microwave from the late 1980s in my kitchen, still works fine.
Allan
On Sun, Aug 8, 2021, at 5:54 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
> Scott, that's pretty much as I figured.
> It's good to know the cheaper Pioneer/Gree class works about like I
> thought the Mitsubishi/Fujitsu c
That was the reputation of LG, 5-10 years ago.
And probably a good reason not to run one on dirty power.
Just because my Fuitsu never minded running on a cheap genset doesn't
mean it was safe. But they do appear to be more robust than LG.
My current setup, if I fry the board in my condenser, I
My 3 LG units all want 30A 220V breakers. No idea if they reach even close to
30A.
Note that one unit has fried 2 main circuit boards at like $400 a pop. They
seem very sensitive to spikes, once from a system spike (that also fried some
of our water company controllers/monitors down the road,
Scott, that's pretty much as I figured.
It's good to know the cheaper Pioneer/Gree class works about like I
thought the Mitsubishi/Fujitsu class units worked.
It appears that Pioneer and Gree are now established names, if not top
tier names. I just did a search on Gree to make sure I was spell
Bottom line: I took some measurements and I think it is very feasible to
power an INVERTER style mini-split HVAC from a generator.
Last night I discovered that my cheapie Harbor Freight Cen-Tech clamp meter
had a peak-hold function. I don't know the meter's sample rate but I don't
think that
