Someone here posted a link that then led me to find this - a clamp on meter
that measures DC current. It's finicky about wire placement for accuracy,
but it does indicate the presence of flowing electrons, which is what I
needed most - is that device (aircraft encoding altimeter) drawing current
> On October 5, 2017 at 1:05 PM Craig via Mercedes
> wrote:
> Sounds like Nissan needs to rethink its algorithm; battery life is more
> important than a gallon of gasoline saved. And so is being able to start
> the car on demand.
The one time I was involved, it was just
On Thu, 5 Oct 2017 07:27:42 -0400 (EDT) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
wrote:
> Nissan does something similar too, but I don't know if they monitor
> current. It's weird to hook up my Scangauge to a friend's 2013 Sentra
> and watch the voltage vary from the high 11s to the low
I don't know how the amp meter that I put in the TD works but
there is a device between the negative battery post and the body
and off that is a very small wire that goes to an electronic amp
meter which reads out amps being used as the starter turns but
after that it always reads 0. Never
> On October 5, 2017 at 2:40 AM Jim Cathey via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> For a car ammeter, you either have to wire in a series (or shunt) ammeter,
> or use a clamp-on DC ammeter. (Hall effect, not a transformer.) These are
> not particularly cheap. Great to have as
For a car ammeter, you either have to wire in a series (or shunt) ammeter,
or use a clamp-on DC ammeter. (Hall effect, not a transformer.) These are
not particularly cheap. Great to have as test equipment, though.
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To
> > > > Mitch wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I believe they sell automotive gauge style inductive
> > > > ammeters.
> > > Craig wrote:
> > >
> > > Or you could use a switchboard shunt and route a 50 mV
> > > signal around.
Most ammeters are actually milliameters and a shunt, or
precise low resistance
On Wed, 4 Oct 2017 17:15:59 -0400 Dan Penoff via Mercedes
wrote:
> Actually, you would use a CT, or current transformer. The meter would
> only be say, 0-50 ma, and the CT could be a 100:1 ratio or something
> like that.
Bttt!
A current transformer is for AC only!
I checked the voltage on both the 97 and 95 and both show 14 volts. Guess I'm
going to pull the thing off and take back to autozone.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 4, 2017, at 3:42 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> That was what I said. 14.2 or thereabouts is
Actually, you would use a CT, or current transformer. The meter would only be
say, 0-50 ma, and the CT could be a 100:1 ratio or something like that.
A pretty common approach to reading and displaying high currents without having
to put the ammeter in series. In generator instrument panels it
The lack of true gages is what earned the term "Idiot gage" for the
blinking light type
Time was when real men drove cars and needed to know what was happening in
their engines... ;))
On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 2:08 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Would that work
Would that work or would you then need a special gauge?
I am no electronics guru but does the gauge not react to the current
draw or charge and would a minimal current produce the same meter readings?
RB
On 04/10/2017 3:54 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
On Wed, 4 Oct 2017 16:12:57 -0400 (EDT)
On Wed, 4 Oct 2017 16:12:57 -0400 (EDT) Mitch Haley via Mercedes
wrote:
> I believe they sell automotive gauge style inductive ammeters.
Or you could use a switchboard shunt and route a 50 mV signal around.
Craig
> > On October 4, 2017 at 3:32 PM Randy Bennell via
Exactly. I think he said he had the headlights on, the alternator should
still be able to supply the needed current/voltage. 14.V.
On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 3:42 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> That was what I said. 14.2 or thereabouts is usually the normal voltage
That was what I said. 14.2 or thereabouts is usually the normal voltage
when the engine is running. Less than that is a bad sign.
RB
On 04/10/2017 3:27 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
Seems low to me. Running voltage should be more like 14v with more like 14.5 at
speed...
Curt
Sent
Seems low to me. Running voltage should be more like 14v with more like 14.5 at
speed...
Curt
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 2:08 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via
Mercedes wrote: I just went to town and back and it's
running 13.6 at idle and with
I believe they sell automotive gauge style inductive ammeters.
Mitch.
> On October 4, 2017 at 3:32 PM Randy Bennell via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> On 04/10/2017 2:15 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
> > Yet another reason that you need a voltmeter and ammeter in every car .
On 04/10/2017 2:15 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
Yet another reason that you need a voltmeter and ammeter in every car . . .
The truck is getting old enough that I ought to follow my own advise and
install them.
Voltmeter should be sufficient.
Ammeters scare me a bit because they have to have
Yet another reason that you need a voltmeter and ammeter in every car . . .
The truck is getting old enough that I ought to follow my own advise and
install them.
On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 1:47 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Yep that's what I do. Except with a
Yep that's what I do. Except with a charge warning hitting r clears it but it
never really goes away until the next start, so you are really not sure if it's
charging now or not. At least the newer cars have a menu you can get into that
will show battery voltage.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct
It’s just the older diagnostic software. You can clear it with the DAS/HHT if
you like, or just let it go until your next start and it goes away.
I’ve got front running light lamps that are out while I’m waiting for
replacements, so I’m getting a defective lamp warning every time I start up.
No not really just something that is annoying that you normally would not have
to deal with anyway. On the older cars that just had the battery light, it
would come on if volts dropped but would turn off if they raised.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 4, 2017, at 1:29 PM, Craig via Mercedes
On Wed, 4 Oct 2017 13:08:21 -0500 "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes"
wrote:
> The problem with the w210 is that you may get the charge warning
> message but it never clears until you restart the car. You can hit the
> button to clear it off the screen but it will still show
I just went to town and back and it's running 13.6 at idle and with headlights
on. I think that's about right. When I started the car to go to town I did not
get the warning. When I left town I got it again but it was running 13.6. The
problem with the w210 is that you may get the charge
On 04/10/2017 11:46 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
So I am fixing to start driving the 98 e300 after the diff swap. When you first
start it up charge warning comes on. On the multimeter at idle it's running
about 12.5 to 12.6 or so volts. Rev it up a little and it jumps up to 13.xx.
Put a meter on the glow plug wars see how long they glow, or listen/look
at the relay to see how long it is closed (if when you take off the
cover you can see the relay).
--R
On 10/4/17 12:46 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
So I am fixing to start driving the 98 e300 after the
So I am fixing to start driving the 98 e300 after the diff swap. When you first
start it up charge warning comes on. On the multimeter at idle it's running
about 12.5 to 12.6 or so volts. Rev it up a little and it jumps up to 13.xx.
After about 2 minutes or so of running it will show the 13.xx
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