Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 The 61x engines make too much soot but thats the only reason you can't do long 
OCI. VW in the US says 10,000 miles but in Germany its 30,000. Apparently 
because they believe that Americans won't read the manual...
-Curt

On Tuesday, February 25, 2020, 12:33:54 PM EST, Dimitri Seretakis 
 wrote:  
 
 Crazy how long the oil change intervals are now! Yes I still see M1 5W40 at 
Wally World!

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 25, 2020, at 12:22 PM, Dwight Giles  wrote:



My memory is that I used the M1  5w-40 turbo but then I couldn't find that 
anymore (do they still make it?) so I went to he 15w-50 since I drove that car 
hard to Boston and back. I once had the oil tested at 10k from Larry's kit and 
it still had 75% of soot carrying capacity. I usually changed it about 12/13k 
or twice a year. 
Dwight E. Giles Jr.Wickford RI

On Tue, Feb 25, 2020 at 11:46 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 wrote:

 The "best" choice for a 602 in my opinion is M1 5w40 Turbo Diesel truck at 
10,000 miles or once a year changes. The engine and oil will both easily 
support that. If you drove a lot of miles you could probably extend the mileage 
but I'd want to see testing to support it.
On a new to me car I'd start with a short change, 5 or 6,000 miles...

-Curt

    On Tuesday, February 25, 2020, 11:28:44 AM EST, Dimitri Seretakis via 
Mercedes  wrote:  

 Dwight, what did you use in the OM602?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 24, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Oh sorry. The aforementioned M1 0w-40. In my 82 CD I use M1 15w-50 & i
> don't drive it in Tmthe winter
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
> 
>> On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 8:32 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> which M1 now?  There must be at somewhere between 3 and 5 in that
>> weight range.    Life was simpler when M1 was real synthetic and you
>> only had to pick the weight range.
>> 
>>> Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>>> February 24, 2020 at 7:27 PM
>>> That is what i use in my 2005 E320.
>>> 
>>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>>> Wickford RI
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 At FLAPS you have to look in the "diesel truck" section. Its usually away from 
all the other oils...
-Curt

On Tuesday, February 25, 2020, 12:22:33 PM EST, Dwight Giles 
 wrote:  
 
 My memory is that I used the M1  5w-40 turbo but then I couldn't find that 
anymore (do they still make it?) so I went to he 15w-50 since I drove that car 
hard to Boston and back. I once had the oil tested at 10k from Larry's kit and 
it still had 75% of soot carrying capacity. I usually changed it about 12/13k 
or twice a year. 
Dwight E. Giles Jr.Wickford RI

On Tue, Feb 25, 2020 at 11:46 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 wrote:

 The "best" choice for a 602 in my opinion is M1 5w40 Turbo Diesel truck at 
10,000 miles or once a year changes. The engine and oil will both easily 
support that. If you drove a lot of miles you could probably extend the mileage 
but I'd want to see testing to support it.
On a new to me car I'd start with a short change, 5 or 6,000 miles...

-Curt

    On Tuesday, February 25, 2020, 11:28:44 AM EST, Dimitri Seretakis via 
Mercedes  wrote:  

 Dwight, what did you use in the OM602?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 24, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Oh sorry. The aforementioned M1 0w-40. In my 82 CD I use M1 15w-50 & i
> don't drive it in Tmthe winter
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
> 
>> On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 8:32 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> which M1 now?  There must be at somewhere between 3 and 5 in that
>> weight range.    Life was simpler when M1 was real synthetic and you
>> only had to pick the weight range.
>> 
>>> Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>>> February 24, 2020 at 7:27 PM
>>> That is what i use in my 2005 E320.
>>> 
>>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>>> Wickford RI
>>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

Crazy how long the oil change intervals are now! Yes I still see M1 5W40 at 
Wally World!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 25, 2020, at 12:22 PM, Dwight Giles  wrote:
> 
> 
> My memory is that I used the M1  5w-40 turbo but then I couldn't find that 
> anymore (do they still make it?) so I went to he 15w-50 since I drove that 
> car hard to Boston and back. I once had the oil tested at 10k from Larry's 
> kit and it still had 75% of soot carrying capacity. I usually changed it 
> about 12/13k or twice a year. 
> Dwight E. Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Feb 25, 2020 at 11:46 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>>  The "best" choice for a 602 in my opinion is M1 5w40 Turbo Diesel truck at 
>> 10,000 miles or once a year changes. The engine and oil will both easily 
>> support that. If you drove a lot of miles you could probably extend the 
>> mileage but I'd want to see testing to support it.
>> On a new to me car I'd start with a short change, 5 or 6,000 miles...
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>> On Tuesday, February 25, 2020, 11:28:44 AM EST, Dimitri Seretakis via 
>> Mercedes  wrote:  
>> 
>>  Dwight, what did you use in the OM602?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> > On Feb 24, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>> >  wrote:
>> > 
>> > Oh sorry. The aforementioned M1 0w-40. In my 82 CD I use M1 15w-50 & i
>> > don't drive it in Tmthe winter
>> > 
>> > Dwight Giles Jr.
>> > Wickford RI
>> > 
>> >> On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 8:32 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
>> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> >> 
>> >> which M1 now?  There must be at somewhere between 3 and 5 in that
>> >> weight range.Life was simpler when M1 was real synthetic and you
>> >> only had to pick the weight range.
>> >> 
>> >>> Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>> >>> February 24, 2020 at 7:27 PM
>> >>> That is what i use in my 2005 E320.
>> >>> 
>> >>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>> >>> Wickford RI
>> >>> 
>> >> 
>> >> ___
>> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> >> 
>> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> >> 
>> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> >> 
>> >> 
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>> > 
>> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

My memory is that I used the M1  5w-40 turbo but then I couldn't find that
anymore (do they still make it?) so I went to he 15w-50 since I drove that
car hard to Boston and back. I once had the oil tested at 10k from Larry's
kit and it still had 75% of soot carrying capacity. I usually changed it
about 12/13k or twice a year.
Dwight E. Giles Jr.
Wickford RI


On Tue, Feb 25, 2020 at 11:46 AM Curt Raymond via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

>  The "best" choice for a 602 in my opinion is M1 5w40 Turbo Diesel truck
> at 10,000 miles or once a year changes. The engine and oil will both easily
> support that. If you drove a lot of miles you could probably extend the
> mileage but I'd want to see testing to support it.
> On a new to me car I'd start with a short change, 5 or 6,000 miles...
>
> -Curt
>
> On Tuesday, February 25, 2020, 11:28:44 AM EST, Dimitri Seretakis via
> Mercedes  wrote:
>
>  Dwight, what did you use in the OM602?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 24, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Oh sorry. The aforementioned M1 0w-40. In my 82 CD I use M1 15w-50 & i
> > don't drive it in Tmthe winter
> >
> > Dwight Giles Jr.
> > Wickford RI
> >
> >> On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 8:32 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> which M1 now?  There must be at somewhere between 3 and 5 in that
> >> weight range.Life was simpler when M1 was real synthetic and you
> >> only had to pick the weight range.
> >>
> >>> Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
> >>> February 24, 2020 at 7:27 PM
> >>> That is what i use in my 2005 E320.
> >>>
> >>> Dwight Giles Jr.
> >>> Wickford RI
> >>>
> >>
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >>
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >>
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >>
> >>
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> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> >
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

Ok good, I was thinking 5W40 turbo diesel truck too.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 25, 2020, at 11:46 AM, Curt Raymond  wrote:
> 
> 
> The "best" choice for a 602 in my opinion is M1 5w40 Turbo Diesel truck at 
> 10,000 miles or once a year changes. The engine and oil will both easily 
> support that. If you drove a lot of miles you could probably extend the 
> mileage but I'd want to see testing to support it.
> 
> On a new to me car I'd start with a short change, 5 or 6,000 miles...
> 
> -Curt
> 
> On Tuesday, February 25, 2020, 11:28:44 AM EST, Dimitri Seretakis via 
> Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> 
> Dwight, what did you use in the OM602?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> > On Feb 24, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > Oh sorry. The aforementioned M1 0w-40. In my 82 CD I use M1 15w-50 & i
> > don't drive it in Tmthe winter
> > 
> > Dwight Giles Jr.
> > Wickford RI
> > 
> >> On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 8:32 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
> >> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >> 
> >> which M1 now?  There must be at somewhere between 3 and 5 in that
> >> weight range.Life was simpler when M1 was real synthetic and you
> >> only had to pick the weight range.
> >> 
> >>> Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
> >>> February 24, 2020 at 7:27 PM
> >>> That is what i use in my 2005 E320.
> >>> 
> >>> Dwight Giles Jr.
> >>> Wickford RI
> >>> 
> >> 
> >> ___
> >> http://www.okiebenz.com
> >> 
> >> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> >> 
> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> >> 
> >> 
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

 The "best" choice for a 602 in my opinion is M1 5w40 Turbo Diesel truck at 
10,000 miles or once a year changes. The engine and oil will both easily 
support that. If you drove a lot of miles you could probably extend the mileage 
but I'd want to see testing to support it.
On a new to me car I'd start with a short change, 5 or 6,000 miles...

-Curt

On Tuesday, February 25, 2020, 11:28:44 AM EST, Dimitri Seretakis via 
Mercedes  wrote:  
 
 Dwight, what did you use in the OM602?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 24, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Oh sorry. The aforementioned M1 0w-40. In my 82 CD I use M1 15w-50 & i
> don't drive it in Tmthe winter
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
> 
>> On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 8:32 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> which M1 now?  There must be at somewhere between 3 and 5 in that
>> weight range.    Life was simpler when M1 was real synthetic and you
>> only had to pick the weight range.
>> 
>>> Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>>> February 24, 2020 at 7:27 PM
>>> That is what i use in my 2005 E320.
>>> 
>>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>>> Wickford RI
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Dimitri Seretakis via Mercedes]

Dwight, what did you use in the OM602?

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 24, 2020, at 9:54 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Oh sorry. The aforementioned M1 0w-40. In my 82 CD I use M1 15w-50 & i
> don't drive it in Tmthe winter
> 
> Dwight Giles Jr.
> Wickford RI
> 
>> On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 8:32 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> which M1 now?   There must be at somewhere between 3 and 5 in that
>> weight range.Life was simpler when M1 was real synthetic and you
>> only had to pick the weight range.
>> 
>>> Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
>>> February 24, 2020 at 7:27 PM
>>> That is what i use in my 2005 E320.
>>> 
>>> Dwight Giles Jr.
>>> Wickford RI
>>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

Oh sorry. The aforementioned M1 0w-40. In my 82 CD I use M1 15w-50 & i
don't drive it in Tmthe winter

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 8:32 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> which M1 now?   There must be at somewhere between 3 and 5 in that
> weight range.Life was simpler when M1 was real synthetic and you
> only had to pick the weight range.
>
> > Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
> > February 24, 2020 at 7:27 PM
> > That is what i use in my 2005 E320.
> >
> > Dwight Giles Jr.
> > Wickford RI
> >
>
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

These days I lump "fully synthetic" oil into three categories:
Stuff I wouldn't touch with a ten foot pole (Schaeffer).

Premium stuff, like Redline and Amsoil Signature Series. 

Stuff that's made to meet API standards (everything else). When GF6 becomes the 
standard this spring,  this stuff will get a little closer in quality to the 
$10/qt stuff from Redline and Amsoil. 

For my Mercedes, 0W40 and 5W40 Mobil One are plenty good enough, and plenty 
cheap enough 2x a year when the $12/jug rebates are in season. 

For my 130hp/liter direct injection Chevy, I've got 3 choices: Run 0W20 M1 EP, 
which is mostly Group IV but slightly too thin, run 5W30 M1 which doesn't hold 
up all that great but should be fine for 5000 miles or so, or spend $100+/case 
on Redline or Amsoil and try to decide how far past 7500 miles I want to push 
it. I was slightly unhappy with the iron content of 0W20 M1 EP at 5000 miles 
last year. It's got the same stuff in it now, but I'm draining it by the end of 
April and I'm still undecided what I'll put in for summer. I might just get a 
case of 5W30 Kendall GT1 and replace it every 5kmi. 

> On February 24, 2020 at 8:31 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> which M1 now?   There must be at somewhere between 3 and 5 in that 
> weight range.    Life was simpler when M1 was real synthetic and you 
> only had to pick the weight range.

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

which M1 now?   There must be at somewhere between 3 and 5 in that 
weight range.    Life was simpler when M1 was real synthetic and you 
only had to pick the weight range.



Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
February 24, 2020 at 7:27 PM
That is what i use in my 2005 E320.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI



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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

That is what i use in my 2005 E320.

Dwight Giles Jr.
Wickford RI

On Mon, Feb 24, 2020, 2:40 PM Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Is M1 0w-40 the BEST oil to use in my 1994 E320 wagon, with M104 (gasser)
> engine?
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Craig via Mercedes]

On Mon, 24 Feb 2020 14:39:22 -0500 Meade Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Is M1 0w-40 the BEST oil to use in my 1994 E320 wagon, with M104
> (gasser) engine?

That's what I used in my M104. I cannot say it is the best, but it
certainly works.

According to FCPEuro you should be using LIQUI MOLY.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

No. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 24, 2020, at 11:40 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Is M1 0w-40 the BEST oil to use in my 1994 E320 wagon, with M104 (gasser)
> engine?
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
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[MBZ] Oil Thread!

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Is M1 0w-40 the BEST oil to use in my 1994 E320 wagon, with M104 (gasser)
engine?
-
Max
Charleston SC
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[MBZ] Oil Thread anyone?

[OK Don via Mercedes]

"Amazon Is Selling Its Own Brand of Motor Oil Now And It's Just Weird" from
Jalopnik
https://jalopnik.com/amazon-is-selling-its-own-brand-of-motor-oil-now-and-it-1831153957

Selected quotes:
"*Amazon selling private-branded oil is a big deal because they’re able to
sell the oil much cheaper than most of their competitors, and, really, most
people just don’t give a shit about what brand oil they use*."

"*This is all just getting started, so it’ll be interesting to see how this
shakes out. In the meantime, we can all sit back an wonder when an entire,
delivered-to-your-house Amazon Basics car
**
will be available for people who just don’t give a shit about what they
drive*."
-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[OK Don via Mercedes]

Thanks for sharing this. I received the aircraft version of this report
yesterday, and wondered if they had done the same for auto engines.

The bottom line for aircraft engines was also that they didn't see nay
significant difference between the oils. There was more difference between
engine types/brands.

On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 1:55 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Mobil 1 still the king?
>
> https://www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsletters/Gas-Diesel/July-1-2017.php
>
> Looks like Delvac 1 beats M1 in a veedub.
> -
> Max
> Charleston SC
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-- 
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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[MBZ] Oil Thread

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Mobil 1 still the king?

https://www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsletters/Gas-Diesel/July-1-2017.php

Looks like Delvac 1 beats M1 in a veedub.
-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

Dwight Giles wrote:
  Well I knew I'd regret starting an oil thread. All I wanted know was about
  mixing dino  M1 as I topped off the 6i7 with synthetic forgetting I had
  not changed it over yet to M1..
  ___
Based on the totality of the oil discussion, Hitler would not have approved the 
mixing of synthetic and dino oil.
Hope this helps.
Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[G Mann via Mercedes]

Apparently, it's a group dynamic that we can discuss Mercedes, war,
politics, religion, and old age, but there are some personal rough spots
that can not be lubricated with oil..

Perhaps, a good round of Irish agricultural products, well aged, would be
more lubricating... or.. as an Irish friend of mine said, coming upon a
group of men fighting ... Is this a private fight, or can anyone join
in... ;))

Grant...

On Wed, Oct 1, 2014 at 12:20 AM, archer75--- via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Dwight Giles wrote:
   Well I knew I'd regret starting an oil thread. All I wanted know was
 about
   mixing dino  M1 as I topped off the 6i7 with synthetic forgetting I
 had
   not changed it over yet to M1..
   ___
 Based on the totality of the oil discussion, Hitler would not have
 approved the mixing of synthetic and dino oil.
 Hope this helps.
 Gerry

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

LOL.  Very funny.

On Wed, Oct 1, 2014 at 10:12 AM, G Mann via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Apparently, it's a group dynamic that we can discuss Mercedes, war,
 politics, religion, and old age, but there are some personal rough spots
 that can not be lubricated with oil..

 Perhaps, a good round of Irish agricultural products, well aged, would be
 more lubricating... or.. as an Irish friend of mine said, coming upon a
 group of men fighting ... Is this a private fight, or can anyone join
 in... ;))

 Grant...

 On Wed, Oct 1, 2014 at 12:20 AM, archer75--- via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

  Dwight Giles wrote:
Well I knew I'd regret starting an oil thread. All I wanted know was
  about
mixing dino  M1 as I topped off the 6i7 with synthetic forgetting I
  had
not changed it over yet to M1..
___
  Based on the totality of the oil discussion, Hitler would not have
  approved the mixing of synthetic and dino oil.
  Hope this helps.
  Gerry
 
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[clay via Mercedes]

thanks

clay

On Sep 29, 2014, at 6:16 PM, rogerhga--- via Mercedes wrote:

 Clay, 
  Phoo right back at you. 
 Best Wishes, 
 Roger 
 Roger Hale 
 Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
 Monroe, Ga. 
 770-267-0850 
 www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new) 
 www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique) 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[clay via Mercedes]

They are really great for bio-remediation.  The stalks love to suck up toxins 
from the ground.   The issues arise when you try to dispose of the plant 
remains.  Consultant I worked at a few decades ago did a few projects at EPA 
sites.  Poplar trees and sunflowers, depending on how long you had and how deep 
you needed to go.



clay 

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately  well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








On Sep 30, 2014, at 5:08 PM, LarryT via Mercedes wrote:

 Hmmm  I wonder if you'd need govt approval to grow sunflowers for fuel ?   ;-)
 
 LarryT
 91 300D
 
 
 On 9/30/2014 9:04 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes wrote:
 Chiming in in the middle of this discussion...
 
 The Germans during WWII successfully developed production of synthetic fuel 
 from coal.  THe Fischer Tropsch process was invented in Germany.
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fischer-Tropsch_process
 
 Using pyrolysis, we have enough coal in our non coal producing state 
 within 100' of the surface to supply 100% of the state's needs for over 100 
 years.
 
 Alternately, growing sunflowers on 1/16th of the land would make the state a 
 net exporter of fuel
 
 Most states can grow sunflowers.
 
 Gary,
  I agree.  Hitler would also have been a fan of synthetic diesel, but 
 not our current government or oil companies.
 Best Wishes,
 Roger
 Roger Hale
 Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
 Monroe, Ga.
 770-267-0850
 www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new)
 www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique)
 
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Curly McLain via Mercedes]

Chiming in in the middle of this discussion...

The Germans during WWII successfully developed production of 
synthetic fuel from coal.  THe Fischer Tropsch process was invented 
in Germany.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fischer-Tropsch_process

Using pyrolysis, we have enough coal in our non coal producing 
state within 100' of the surface to supply 100% of the state's needs 
for over 100 years.


Alternately, growing sunflowers on 1/16th of the land would make the 
state a net exporter of fuel


Most states can grow sunflowers.


Gary,
  I agree.  Hitler would also have been a fan of synthetic 
diesel, but not our current government or oil companies.

Best Wishes,
Roger
Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new)
www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique)


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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[LarryT via Mercedes]

Hmmm  I wonder if you'd need govt approval to grow sunflowers for fuel 
?   ;-)


LarryT
91 300D


On 9/30/2014 9:04 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes wrote:

Chiming in in the middle of this discussion...

The Germans during WWII successfully developed production of synthetic 
fuel from coal.  THe Fischer Tropsch process was invented in Germany.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fischer-Tropsch_process

Using pyrolysis, we have enough coal in our non coal producing state 
within 100' of the surface to supply 100% of the state's needs for 
over 100 years.


Alternately, growing sunflowers on 1/16th of the land would make the 
state a net exporter of fuel


Most states can grow sunflowers.


Gary,
  I agree.  Hitler would also have been a fan of synthetic 
diesel, but not our current government or oil companies.

Best Wishes,
Roger
Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new)
www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique)


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contributor.





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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[LarryT via Mercedes]

it's not a problem mixing the 2...

LarryT
The Oil Analysis Co.


On 9/29/2014 4:58 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes wrote:

Well I knew I'd regret starting an oil thread. All I wanted know was about
mixing dino  M1 as I topped off the 6i7 with synthetic forgetting I had
not changed it over yet to M1..
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Welcome!  What state would that be, Curly?

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC

On Sep 30, 2014 7:07 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Chiming in in the middle of this discussion...

 The Germans during WWII successfully developed production of synthetic
fuel from coal.  THe Fischer Tropsch process was invented in Germany.
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fischer-Tropsch_process

 Using pyrolysis, we have enough coal in our non coal producing state
within 100' of the surface to supply 100% of the state's needs for over 100
years.


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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Absolute humbug Roger!

Or rather if your car's seals start to leak you were due for a leak anyway and 
the synthetic just hastened it along. I recognize that where you live synthetic 
is not required in the winter but I assure you that a 61x engine with 15w40 
conventional oil WILL NOT START at 0F. There isn't enough power to crank it 
over fast enough (or for long) at that temp. With 5w40 M1 it'll start okay at 
that temp and if all your ducks are in a row (clean fuel, good battery etc) 
it'll still start at -10F unassisted.

If your car has leaking seals just fix the seals, don't blame the oil. Actually 
the cars I've put M1 in have mostly drooled a little before the seals swell and 
close off the leaks.

-Curt



 From: rogerhga--- via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2014 11:02 PM
Subject: [MBZ]  OIL THREAD
 

Dwight, 
 If your 617 has very many miles, I'd get the synthetic stuff out ASAP.  In 
my experience (and I know others drool over synthetic), it will make your front 
and rear main seals start leaking.  BTDT.  I keep synthetic away from both of 
my 617s.  I still use Mobil, just the dino 15x40. 
Best Wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new) 
www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique) 

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

I know I've told the story here before of my '96 Dodge Dakota that started to 
leak out the rear main seal to the tune of a quart every 500 miles. That was 
the first vehicle I switched to Mobil 1, when I got rid of it 10 years later it 
leaked a quart in 3,000 mile and got 8500 mile changes. I've been sold on M1 
ever since.


-Curt



 From: rogerhga--- via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2014 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD
 

Gary, 
 I tried the Mobil synthetic in the late 90s and early 2000s and it caused 
front/rear main seal leaks on my vehicles.  I'm a 3K oil changer with new 
filter.  Personally, I don't think the stories are preposterous because I've 
personally seen the results on the 4 vehicles I own (1980 300SD - 430,000 
miles, 1983 300D - 360,000 miles, 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 - 180,000, and a 2008 
Ford Escape V-6 with 133,000 miles).  I use Mobil Delvac dino in the two 617s 
(18 years now and counting), Valvoline Max in the Dodge, and Mobil 1 synthetic 
in the Ford, which has started to leak from the valve cover gaskets.  As I've 
told other believers, if something works for you, then don't change 
regardless of anyone else's opinion, including mine. 
Best Wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new) 
www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique) 

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Gary Hurst via Mercedes]

roger just likes living in the 70s.  but, hey, who doesn't?

On Mon, Sep 29, 2014 at 12:45 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Absolute humbug Roger!

 Or rather if your car's seals start to leak you were due for a leak anyway
 and the synthetic just hastened it along. I recognize that where you live
 synthetic is not required in the winter but I assure you that a 61x engine
 with 15w40 conventional oil WILL NOT START at 0F. There isn't enough power
 to crank it over fast enough (or for long) at that temp. With 5w40 M1 it'll
 start okay at that temp and if all your ducks are in a row (clean fuel,
 good battery etc) it'll still start at -10F unassisted.

 If your car has leaking seals just fix the seals, don't blame the oil.
 Actually the cars I've put M1 in have mostly drooled a little before the
 seals swell and close off the leaks.

 -Curt


 
  From: rogerhga--- via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2014 11:02 PM
 Subject: [MBZ]  OIL THREAD


 Dwight,
  If your 617 has very many miles, I'd get the synthetic stuff out
 ASAP.  In my experience (and I know others drool over synthetic), it will
 make your front and rear main seals start leaking.  BTDT.  I keep synthetic
 away from both of my 617s.  I still use Mobil, just the dino 15x40.
 Best Wishes,
 Roger
 Roger Hale
 Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
 Monroe, Ga.
 770-267-0850
 www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new)
 www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique)

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com

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 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner
 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
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 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.




-- 


*reliable vendor of superior parts for mercedes and other european cars*
*www.BuyEUROparts.com http://www.BuyEUROparts.com*
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[rogerhga--- via Mercedes]

Curt, 
  My deepest apologies.  I didn't realize that your opinion and experience 
outweighs everyone else's.  And Gary, I'm living in the present, just not 
paying excess amounts for synthetic oil.  And my 83 300D has started at below 
zero with Delvac dino.  Yes, the south is warmer and winter starting is 
normally easy.  In the future, I'll try to stay out of oil threads now that I 
realize that who the experts are. 
Best Wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new) 
www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique) 

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Curt Raymond via Mercedes]

Funny, but I've been reading this thread and my experience and opinion matches 
everybody elses its you who seem to think your opinion is worth more than mine.

That said I actually agree with using conventional oil in a 61x engine mostly 
because the soot loading the 61x engine puts into the engine makes the extra 
cost of synthetic not worth the effort since you pretty much need to change oil 
at 3,000-4,000 miles. With a 60x engine you can go to much longer oil changes. 
In my 190D (both the '85 I had and the '84 I currently have) I do (did) 10,000 
mile changes which analysis backed up as maybe even conservative. I'm doing the 
same in my Jetta. My Ranger got 8500-9000 mile changes but it tended to get 
driven shorter distances more often. I expect the Dodge to do the same.

How long did you run your 61x engines on synthetic before condeming it? My 
Dakota took 50,000 miles or so to really dry up...

-Curt



 From: rogerhga--- via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2014 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD
 

Curt, 
  My deepest apologies.  I didn't realize that your opinion and experience 
outweighs everyone else's.  And Gary, I'm living in the present, just not 
paying excess amounts for synthetic oil.  And my 83 300D has started at below 
zero with Delvac dino.  Yes, the south is warmer and winter starting is 
normally easy.  In the future, I'll try to stay out of oil threads now that I 
realize that who the experts are. 
Best Wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new) 
www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique) 

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

Well I knew I'd regret starting an oil thread. All I wanted know was about
mixing dino  M1 as I topped off the 6i7 with synthetic forgetting I had
not changed it over yet to M1..
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Gary Hurst via Mercedes]

it will blow out your seals like a thermonuclear explosion!  suck it out
right now with your mouth if you have to!

On Mon, Sep 29, 2014 at 4:58 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Well I knew I'd regret starting an oil thread. All I wanted know was about
 mixing dino  M1 as I topped off the 6i7 with synthetic forgetting I had
 not changed it over yet to M1..
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[rogerhga--- via Mercedes]

Dwight, 
 That's ok.  Use whatever oil you want.  I know I will and I'll sleep well 
not worrying about the affect on my vehicles.  
Best Wishes, 
Roger 

Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new) 
www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique) 

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[clay via Mercedes]

Phooo!

I have not had any issues with synth in my old cars.  No leaks or mess.  What 
it does do is clean out the snot in the engine and make it run much better.   
Fuel leaks, coolant leaks, washer fluid leaks I have had.  No oil leaks that 
popped up after using M1.  If it leaked prior to the switch, I did not get 
more, but less spillage over a few thousand miles.  Seals had failed long 
before, so repair was the only solution.  If using synth makes for leaks, then 
your seals were garbage to begin with.

clay


On Sep 27, 2014, at 8:02 PM, rogerhga--- via Mercedes wrote:

 Dwight, 
  If your 617 has very many miles, I'd get the synthetic stuff out ASAP.  
 In my experience (and I know others drool over synthetic), it will make your 
 front and rear main seals start leaking.  BTDT.  I keep synthetic away from 
 both of my 617s.  I still use Mobil, just the dino 15x40. 
 Best Wishes, 
 Roger 
 Roger Hale 
 Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
 Monroe, Ga. 
 770-267-0850 
 www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new) 
 www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique) 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[OK Don via Mercedes]

UNLESS, you Change all YOUR fuses!

On Mon, Sep 29, 2014 at 4:02 PM, Gary Hurst via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 it will blow out your seals like a thermonuclear explosion!



-- 
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Dan Penoff via Mercedes]

Isn't someone going to mention Hitler now?

Dan


On Sep 29, 2014, at 5:02 PM, Gary Hurst via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
wrote:

 it will blow out your seals like a thermonuclear explosion!  suck it out
 right now with your mouth if you have to!
 
 On Mon, Sep 29, 2014 at 4:58 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Well I knew I'd regret starting an oil thread. All I wanted know was about
 mixing dino  M1 as I topped off the 6i7 with synthetic forgetting I had
 not changed it over yet to M1..
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[OK Don via Mercedes]

What Clay said - mirrors my experience with 9 old Mercedes Diesel and
vergasser cars over 30 years.

On Mon, Sep 29, 2014 at 4:24 PM, clay via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Phooo!

 I have not had any issues with synth in my old cars.  No leaks or mess.
 What it does do is clean out the snot in the engine and make it run much
 better.   Fuel leaks, coolant leaks, washer fluid leaks I have had.  No oil
 leaks that popped up after using M1.  If it leaked prior to the switch, I
 did not get more, but less spillage over a few thousand miles.  Seals had
 failed long before, so repair was the only solution.  If using synth makes
 for leaks, then your seals were garbage to begin with.

 clay




-- 
OK Don

NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!

There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves.

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[OK Don via Mercedes]

You just did?

On Mon, Sep 29, 2014 at 5:17 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Isn't someone going to mention Hitler now?

 Dan





-- 
OK Don

NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!

There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves.

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[rogerhga--- via Mercedes]

Clay, 
 Phoo right back at you. 
Best Wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new) 
www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique) 

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Gary Hurst via Mercedes]

i'd say hitler would have been a fan of sythetic oil.  i mean, he did like
synthetic rubber, no?

On Mon, Sep 29, 2014 at 6:17 PM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Isn't someone going to mention Hitler now?

 Dan


 On Sep 29, 2014, at 5:02 PM, Gary Hurst via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

  it will blow out your seals like a thermonuclear explosion!  suck it out
  right now with your mouth if you have to!
 
  On Mon, Sep 29, 2014 at 4:58 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
  mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
  Well I knew I'd regret starting an oil thread. All I wanted know was
 about
  mixing dino  M1 as I topped off the 6i7 with synthetic forgetting I had
  not changed it over yet to M1..
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Using M1 in the only OM617 I ever owned increased the oil consumption from
a quart per 1500 miles to about 800 miles.  No leaks though.

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
 On Sep 27, 2014 11:02 PM, rogerhga--- via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Dwight,
  If your 617 has very many miles, I'd get the synthetic stuff out
 ASAP.  In my experience (and I know others drool over synthetic), it will
 make your front and rear main seals start leaking.  BTDT.  I keep synthetic
 away from both of my 617s.  I still use Mobil, just the dino 15x40.
 Best Wishes,
 Roger
 Roger Hale
 Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
 Monroe, Ga.
 770-267-0850
 www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new)
 www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique)

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[archer75--- via Mercedes]

Marshall Booth researched the leaking seals/Mobil 1 problem and found that it 
was a significant defect when Mobil 1 first came on the market. Changes were 
made in the formula which solved the problem.
Gerry

Dwight Giles wrote:

 Thanks Roger,
 I used mobil 1 in both my OM616's; I put abot 7 miles on one with
 synthetic  no leaks.
 On Sep 27, 2014 11:02 PM, rogerhga--- via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:
 
  Dwight,
   If your 617 has very many miles, I'd get the synthetic stuff out
  ASAP.  In my experience (and I know others drool over synthetic), it will
  make your front and rear main seals start leaking.  BTDT.  I keep synthetic
  away from both of my 617s.  I still use Mobil, just the dino 15x40.
  Best Wishes,
  Roger
  Roger Hale
  Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
  Monroe, Ga.
  770-267-0850
  www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new)
  www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique)
 
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Gary Hurst via Mercedes]

i just wish to avoid an environment of hysteria where if someone drops a
quart of mobil 1 by mistake, the he must now get it out ASAP.  i personally
don't know of mobil 1 causing any leak issues since back in the very early
days

On Sun, Sep 28, 2014 at 11:33 AM, rogerhga--- via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Gary,
  I tried the Mobil synthetic in the late 90s and early 2000s and it
 caused front/rear main seal leaks on my vehicles.  I'm a 3K oil changer
 with new filter.  Personally, I don't think the stories are preposterous
 because I've personally seen the results on the 4 vehicles I own (1980
 300SD - 430,000 miles, 1983 300D - 360,000 miles, 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9 -
 180,000, and a 2008 Ford Escape V-6 with 133,000 miles).  I use Mobil
 Delvac dino in the two 617s (18 years now and counting), Valvoline Max in
 the Dodge, and Mobil 1 synthetic in the Ford, which has started to leak
 from the valve cover gaskets.  As I've told other believers, if something
 works for you, then don't change regardless of anyone else's opinion,
 including mine.
 Best Wishes,
 Roger
 Roger Hale
 Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
 Monroe, Ga.
 770-267-0850
 www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new)
 www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique)

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes]

My seals leak no matter what oil I put in. So I run the good stuff. I did
put some regular DINO in last change, but it made no difference. Leaky
seals are leaky seals. Oil type makes no difference. I think in the past
seals were made of leather and various other porous materials that could
react differently to various oils, but that was long ago.
On Sep 27, 2014 8:02 PM, rogerhga--- via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Dwight,
  If your 617 has very many miles, I'd get the synthetic stuff out
 ASAP.  In my experience (and I know others drool over synthetic), it will
 make your front and rear main seals start leaking.  BTDT.  I keep synthetic
 away from both of my 617s.  I still use Mobil, just the dino 15x40.
 Best Wishes,
 Roger
 Roger Hale
 Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
 Monroe, Ga.
 770-267-0850
 www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new)
 www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique)

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[MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

Can Mobil 1 be added  without harm to an OM 617 that has conventional oil
in it?  I mistakenly added about a quart  a half to my CD. I plan  to
change it soon but wondering if I can drive it a few hundred miles with
this 'blend.
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Gary Hurst via Mercedes]

yes, you can mix and match all you want

On Sat, Sep 27, 2014 at 4:50 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Can Mobil 1 be added  without harm to an OM 617 that has conventional oil
 in it?  I mistakenly added about a quart  a half to my CD. I plan  to
 change it soon but wondering if I can drive it a few hundred miles with
 this 'blend.
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Shouldn't be a problem.

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Dwight Giles via Mercedes]

Yes just checked Exxon Mobil   it's OK.
On Sep 27, 2014 5:10 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Shouldn't be a problem.

 Max Dillon,
 Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Gary Hurst via Mercedes]

it's hard to see why it wouldn't be.  it really is just oil, but one is
just an improved molecule.  no?




On Sat, Sep 27, 2014 at 5:17 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 Yes just checked Exxon Mobil   it's OK.
 On Sep 27, 2014 5:10 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 wrote:

  Shouldn't be a problem.
 
  Max Dillon,
  Charleston SC
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[MBZ] OIL THREAD

[rogerhga--- via Mercedes]

Dwight, 
 If your 617 has very many miles, I'd get the synthetic stuff out ASAP.  In 
my experience (and I know others drool over synthetic), it will make your front 
and rear main seals start leaking.  BTDT.  I keep synthetic away from both of 
my 617s.  I still use Mobil, just the dino 15x40. 
Best Wishes, 
Roger 
Roger Hale 
Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
Monroe, Ga. 
770-267-0850 
www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new) 
www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique) 

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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Scott Ritchey via Mercedes]

I used M1 exclusively in my 79TD (350K miles when sold in 2006) and 82SD (240K 
miles, still own) with no leakage from the oil seals.  

 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
 rogerhga--- via Mercedes
 Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2014 11:02 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] OIL THREAD
 
 Dwight,
  If your 617 has very many miles, I'd get the synthetic stuff out ASAP.  
 In my
 experience (and I know others drool over synthetic), it will make your front
 and rear main seals start leaking.  BTDT.  I keep synthetic away from both of
 my 617s.  I still use Mobil, just the dino 15x40.
 Best Wishes,
 Roger
 Roger Hale
 Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
 Monroe, Ga.
 770-267-0850
 www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new)
 www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique)
 


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Re: [MBZ] OIL THREAD

[Gary Hurst via Mercedes]

i've heard this leak story comes from experiences with gen 1 mobil 1 from
the 70s, when it was true and that it is simply repeated as gospel ever
since.  the idea that pouring a quart of mobil 1 in by accident will
magically open up your seals strikes me as fairly preposterous

i'll generally use mobil 1 in a car unless the car is losing a lot of oil
(say a quart ever 250 miles or more).  this is not because i feel it does
anything to create or exacerbate leakage but just because it costs more

On Sat, Sep 27, 2014 at 11:44 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 I used M1 exclusively in my 79TD (350K miles when sold in 2006) and 82SD
 (240K miles, still own) with no leakage from the oil seals.

  -Original Message-
  From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
  rogerhga--- via Mercedes
  Sent: Saturday, September 27, 2014 11:02 PM
  To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Subject: [MBZ] OIL THREAD
 
  Dwight,
   If your 617 has very many miles, I'd get the synthetic stuff out
 ASAP.  In my
  experience (and I know others drool over synthetic), it will make your
 front
  and rear main seals start leaking.  BTDT.  I keep synthetic away from
 both of
  my 617s.  I still use Mobil, just the dino 15x40.
  Best Wishes,
  Roger
  Roger Hale
  Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
  Monroe, Ga.
  770-267-0850
  www.dinnerwareclassics.com  (new)
  www.southernnightsantiques.com  (antique)
 


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dan Penoff]

I think just about all of the valve covers use crush washers over the years.

I have noticed that since I went to 15W-50 it takes a second or two more of 
cranking to start the car. I assume it's because of the thicker oil. This is 
cold starts only?

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 14, 2014, at 7:58 PM, Mike Esh michael...@mac.com wrote:
 
 Does my 1984 300D require  these crush washers?  I have had a 1973 240D, 1981 
 240D,  1981 300SD,  1982 300TD, and currently a 1984 and 1985 300D and I have 
 never seen these being used on the valve cover. 
 Michael E. Esh
 me...@horizonenv.com
 michael...@mac.com
 http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
 (C) 231.286.2344
 
 On Apr 14, 2014, at 03:31 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 
 On Mon, 14 Apr 2014 14:37:50 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
 I have a set of the OE metal tubes. Guess I need to order some valve
 cover seals and upper chain guides. Any need to order new copper 
 crush
 washers for the valve covers?
 This is for an M119 engine.
 
 From the name you gave, copper crush washers, I would buy new.
 
 
 Craig
 
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Mike Esh]

Thanks Dan,
I will put them on the next time I adjust the valves.

Michael E. Esh
me...@horizonenv.com
michael...@mac.com
http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
(C) 231.286.2344


On Apr 15, 2014, at 07:05 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:


I think just about all of the valve covers use crush washers over the years.

I have noticed that since I went to 15W-50 it takes a second or two more of 
cranking to start the car. I assume it's because of the thicker oil. This is 
cold starts only?

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On Apr 14, 2014, at 7:58 PM, Mike Esh michael...@mac.com   wrote:
   
Does my 1984 300D require these crush washers? I have had a 1973 240D, 
1981 240D, 1981 300SD, 1982 300TD, and currently a 1984 and 1985 300D and I have 
never seen these being used on the valve cover.
Michael E. Esh
me...@horizonenv.com
michael...@mac.com
http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
(C) 231.286.2344
   
On Apr 14, 2014, at 03:31 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net   wrote:
   
On Mon, 14 Apr 2014 14:37:50 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com   
wrote:
   
I have a set of the OE metal tubes. Guess I need to order 
some valve
cover seals and upper chain guides. Any need to order new 
copper crush
washers for the valve covers?
This is for an M119 engine.
   
From the name you gave, copper crush washers, I would buy new.
   
   
Craig
   
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dan Penoff]

I imagine you can reuse them, but I do seem to recall the 617s having them on 
the valve cover bolts.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 15, 2014, at 8:06 AM, Mike Esh michael...@mac.com wrote:
 
 Thanks Dan,
 I will put them on the next time I adjust the valves.
 
 Michael E. Esh
 me...@horizonenv.com
 michael...@mac.com
 http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
 (C) 231.286.2344
 
 
 On Apr 15, 2014, at 07:05 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
 I think just about all of the valve covers use crush washers over the years.
 
 I have noticed that since I went to 15W-50 it takes a second or two more of 
 cranking to start the car. I assume it's because of the thicker oil. This is 
 cold starts only?
 
 Dan
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
On Apr 14, 2014, at 7:58 PM, Mike Esh michael...@mac.com   
 wrote:
   
Does my 1984 300D require these crush washers? I have had a 1973 
 240D, 1981 240D, 1981 300SD, 1982 300TD, and currently a 1984 and 1985 300D 
 and I have never seen these being used on the valve cover.
Michael E. Esh
me...@horizonenv.com
michael...@mac.com
http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
(C) 231.286.2344
   
On Apr 14, 2014, at 03:31 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net   wrote:
   
On Mon, 14 Apr 2014 14:37:50 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com  
  wrote:
   
I have a set of the OE metal tubes. Guess I need to order 
 some valve
cover seals and upper chain guides. Any need to order new 
 copper crush
washers for the valve covers?
This is for an M119 engine.
   
From the name you gave, copper crush washers, I would buy new.
   
   
Craig
   
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dan Penoff]

My thoughts as well, although I don't know the internal workings of the M119 
well enough to know where the oil feed comes from. I have heard on both the 
R129 and W140 forums on Benzworld that if the oiler tubes fail, oil pressure to 
the gallery feeding the lifters will drop off, causing noise.

I've driven it a little under 3k with M1 in it, so it may need some more time.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 14, 2014, at 12:53 AM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 If the M119 is built anything like the M117, then those oiler tubes
 lubricate the cam lobe to lifter surfaces. Lifter tick is usually when the
 lifter is not fully pumped up. that oil comes from a galley in the head,
 not the oiler tube. It is usually (in my experience) due to either gunk in
 the lifter or something is clogged. IIRC, Marshall used to tell us to run
 M1 for 10k to 15k miles to clear this up.
 
 
 On Sun, Apr 13, 2014 at 10:39 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
 Every car list needs one of these, right?
 
 Actually, I was going to report back on my change in M1 viscosities.
 
 I changed the oil yesterday from 0W-40 to 15W-50.  Didn't have time to
 drive the car until tonight, and while the ambient temps were only in the
 low 70s, idle oil pressure at operating temperature was definitely a few
 tenths of a bar higher.
 
 It will be interesting to see what they are tomorrow when it's hotter and
 I'm out on the highway
 
 On a related note, I have a lifter tick on the right side that is
 intermittent.  It just seems to come and go, and there doesn't seem to be
 any pattern to it.  It's not loud, and I can usually only hear it when I'm
 in the garage or next to a hard surface so the sound reflects back to me.
 
 I am pretty sure my M119 has the plastic oiler tubes, but if one of those
 were bad I would expect to hear it constantly.  I have a set of the
 aluminum tubes with new O rings ready to install.  Maybe I just need to
 speed that up and get it done
 
 
 Dan
 ___
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 -- 
 OK Don
 
 NSA: The only branch of government that actually listons to US citizens!
 
 There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
 learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
 for themselves.
 
 WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
 2013 F150, 18 mpg
 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[LarryT]

Is the tick just as noticable with the, heavier viscosity new oil?

LarryT
91 300D

On 4/13/2014 11:39 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

Every car list needs one of these, right?

Actually, I was going to report back on my change in M1 viscosities.

I changed the oil yesterday from 0W-40 to 15W-50.  Didn't have time to drive 
the car until tonight, and while the ambient temps were only in the low 70s, 
idle oil pressure at operating temperature was definitely a few tenths of a bar 
higher.

It will be interesting to see what they are tomorrow when it's hotter and I'm 
out on the highway

On a related note, I have a lifter tick on the right side that is intermittent. 
 It just seems to come and go, and there doesn't seem to be any pattern to it.  
It's not loud, and I can usually only hear it when I'm in the garage or next to 
a hard surface so the sound reflects back to me.

I am pretty sure my M119 has the plastic oiler tubes, but if one of those were 
bad I would expect to hear it constantly.  I have a set of the aluminum tubes 
with new O rings ready to install.  Maybe I just need to speed that up and get 
it done


Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Gary Hurst]

it's a huge jump, going from 0W to 15W, at least in my mind.  i might have
taken an intermediate step, but i'd likely not have ever been using 0W

i used to use 40 weight kendall back in the day, so i'm not quite a light
oil kinda guy


On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 10:03 AM, LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

 Is the tick just as noticable with the, heavier viscosity new oil?

 LarryT
 91 300D


 On 4/13/2014 11:39 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

 Every car list needs one of these, right?

 Actually, I was going to report back on my change in M1 viscosities.

 I changed the oil yesterday from 0W-40 to 15W-50.  Didn't have time to
 drive the car until tonight, and while the ambient temps were only in the
 low 70s, idle oil pressure at operating temperature was definitely a few
 tenths of a bar higher.

 It will be interesting to see what they are tomorrow when it's hotter and
 I'm out on the highway

 On a related note, I have a lifter tick on the right side that is
 intermittent.  It just seems to come and go, and there doesn't seem to be
 any pattern to it.  It's not loud, and I can usually only hear it when I'm
 in the garage or next to a hard surface so the sound reflects back to me.

 I am pretty sure my M119 has the plastic oiler tubes, but if one of those
 were bad I would expect to hear it constantly.  I have a set of the
 aluminum tubes with new O rings ready to install.  Maybe I just need to
 speed that up and get it done


 Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dan Penoff]

Yes, but it's still intermittent.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 14, 2014, at 10:03 AM, LarryT l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Is the tick just as noticable with the, heavier viscosity new oil?
 
 LarryT
 91 300D
 
 On 4/13/2014 11:39 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
 Every car list needs one of these, right?
 
 Actually, I was going to report back on my change in M1 viscosities.
 
 I changed the oil yesterday from 0W-40 to 15W-50.  Didn't have time to drive 
 the car until tonight, and while the ambient temps were only in the low 70s, 
 idle oil pressure at operating temperature was definitely a few tenths of a 
 bar higher.
 
 It will be interesting to see what they are tomorrow when it's hotter and 
 I'm out on the highway
 
 On a related note, I have a lifter tick on the right side that is 
 intermittent.  It just seems to come and go, and there doesn't seem to be 
 any pattern to it.  It's not loud, and I can usually only hear it when I'm 
 in the garage or next to a hard surface so the sound reflects back to me.
 
 I am pretty sure my M119 has the plastic oiler tubes, but if one of those 
 were bad I would expect to hear it constantly.  I have a set of the aluminum 
 tubes with new O rings ready to install.  Maybe I just need to speed that up 
 and get it done
 
 
 Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[OK Don]

It would be worth pulling the valve covers off to take a look, just to rule
out broken tubes, or to replace them.


On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 10:23 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Yes, but it's still intermittent.

 Dan


-- 
OK Don

NSA: The only branch of government that actually listons to US citizens!

There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves.

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dan Penoff]

I have a set of the OE metal tubes. Guess I need to order some valve cover 
seals and upper chain guides. Any need to order new copper crush washers for 
the valve covers?

This is for an M119 engine.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Apr 14, 2014, at 1:35 PM, OK Don okd...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 It would be worth pulling the valve covers off to take a look, just to rule
 out broken tubes, or to replace them.
 
 
 On Mon, Apr 14, 2014 at 10:23 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
 Yes, but it's still intermittent.
 
 Dan
 -- 
 OK Don
 
 NSA: The only branch of government that actually listons to US citizens!
 
 There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
 learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
 for themselves.
 
 WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
 2013 F150, 18 mpg
 2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
 1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Craig]

On Mon, 14 Apr 2014 14:37:50 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 I have a set of the OE metal tubes. Guess I need to order some valve
 cover seals and upper chain guides. Any need to order new copper crush
 washers for the valve covers?
 
 This is for an M119 engine.

From the name you gave, copper crush washers, I would buy new.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Mike Esh]

Does my 1984 300D require  these crush washers?  I have had a 1973 240D, 1981 
240D,  1981 300SD,  1982 300TD, and currently a 1984 and 1985 300D and I have 
never seen these being used on the valve cover. 
Michael E. Esh
me...@horizonenv.com
michael...@mac.com
http://www.yugster.com/invite/138123
(C) 231.286.2344

On Apr 14, 2014, at 03:31 PM, Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:

On Mon, 14 Apr 2014 14:37:50 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com         wrote:

        I have a set of the OE metal tubes. Guess I need to order some valve
        cover seals and upper chain guides. Any need to order new copper crush
        washers for the valve covers?
        
        This is for an M119 engine.


From the name you gave, copper crush washers, I would buy new.


Craig

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[MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dan Penoff]

Every car list needs one of these, right?

Actually, I was going to report back on my change in M1 viscosities.

I changed the oil yesterday from 0W-40 to 15W-50.  Didn't have time to drive 
the car until tonight, and while the ambient temps were only in the low 70s, 
idle oil pressure at operating temperature was definitely a few tenths of a bar 
higher.

It will be interesting to see what they are tomorrow when it's hotter and I'm 
out on the highway

On a related note, I have a lifter tick on the right side that is intermittent. 
 It just seems to come and go, and there doesn't seem to be any pattern to it.  
It's not loud, and I can usually only hear it when I'm in the garage or next to 
a hard surface so the sound reflects back to me.

I am pretty sure my M119 has the plastic oiler tubes, but if one of those were 
bad I would expect to hear it constantly.  I have a set of the aluminum tubes 
with new O rings ready to install.  Maybe I just need to speed that up and get 
it done


Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[OK Don]

If the M119 is built anything like the M117, then those oiler tubes
lubricate the cam lobe to lifter surfaces. Lifter tick is usually when the
lifter is not fully pumped up. that oil comes from a galley in the head,
not the oiler tube. It is usually (in my experience) due to either gunk in
the lifter or something is clogged. IIRC, Marshall used to tell us to run
M1 for 10k to 15k miles to clear this up.


On Sun, Apr 13, 2014 at 10:39 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Every car list needs one of these, right?

 Actually, I was going to report back on my change in M1 viscosities.

 I changed the oil yesterday from 0W-40 to 15W-50.  Didn't have time to
 drive the car until tonight, and while the ambient temps were only in the
 low 70s, idle oil pressure at operating temperature was definitely a few
 tenths of a bar higher.

 It will be interesting to see what they are tomorrow when it's hotter and
 I'm out on the highway

 On a related note, I have a lifter tick on the right side that is
 intermittent.  It just seems to come and go, and there doesn't seem to be
 any pattern to it.  It's not loud, and I can usually only hear it when I'm
 in the garage or next to a hard surface so the sound reflects back to me.

 I am pretty sure my M119 has the plastic oiler tubes, but if one of those
 were bad I would expect to hear it constantly.  I have a set of the
 aluminum tubes with new O rings ready to install.  Maybe I just need to
 speed that up and get it done


 Dan
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-- 
OK Don

NSA: The only branch of government that actually listons to US citizens!

There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves.

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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[MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dan Penoff]

Yup, it's time.

Just fishing for opinions.

Both M119 powered cars have been running Mobil1 0W-40 European.  Neither is 
required to run it, as the spec came out well after both were in production.  
1998 was the beginning of the oil sensor crap, so the R129 doesn't have it.

In the hot summers of Florida it's not uncommon for the W140, which has over 
260,000 miles on it now, to have an idle oil pressure barely hitting the 1.0 
bar mark.  It comes up as soon as you increase RPM and is pretty well pegged 
after that.

I'm wondering if I might get a little higher idle oil pressure if I change to 
something like 20W-50, which is what I always ran in my MB diesels down here.

This viscosity is well within the operating temperatures listed in MBs oil spec 
sheets, so I don't see a problem doing it.  I'm just not sure I'll really gain 
anything from it.  I'm also not terribly keen about running an oil with a 
bottom end of 0W in this climate.

Thoughts?

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dan Penoff]

Correction:  15W-50

Neem a number of years since I used the stuff.

Dan


On Apr 5, 2014, at 8:16 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

 Yup, it's time.
 
 Just fishing for opinions.
 
 Both M119 powered cars have been running Mobil1 0W-40 European.  Neither is 
 required to run it, as the spec came out well after both were in production.  
 1998 was the beginning of the oil sensor crap, so the R129 doesn't have it.
 
 In the hot summers of Florida it's not uncommon for the W140, which has over 
 260,000 miles on it now, to have an idle oil pressure barely hitting the 1.0 
 bar mark.  It comes up as soon as you increase RPM and is pretty well pegged 
 after that.
 
 I'm wondering if I might get a little higher idle oil pressure if I change to 
 something like 20W-50, which is what I always ran in my MB diesels down here.
 
 This viscosity is well within the operating temperatures listed in MBs oil 
 spec sheets, so I don't see a problem doing it.  I'm just not sure I'll 
 really gain anything from it.  I'm also not terribly keen about running an 
 oil with a bottom end of 0W in this climate.
 
 Thoughts?
 
 Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Peter Frederick]

It should be fine, that is actually very good oil.

I agree, 0 grade oil in Florida would not be my first choice,  
particularly with a high milage engine.  Too much risk of lack of  
lubrication if you get stuck in traffic on a blistering day.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Larry T]

Your choice will be fine IMO - but you might consider Amsoil products.   
I switched to it in my 911 and 91 300D last year and have been happy 
with it.  the analysis numbers look good and like you, I watch the idle 
oil pressure and use that as an indication of how things are going, oil 
wise.  with a summer hot engine I get slightly better pressure with the 
same weight oil using Amsoil.But I use a 15W40 here in Va.  Not as 
hot as Fl. but we get our share of days in the upper 90s at least for a 
couple of weeks or so in the summer -- last Summer was pleasant 
though... only a week of 95F. with 95% RH.


I also put a slug of MMO into the tank at each fill up.

Sincerely,
LarryT
91 300D (230K)
78 240D (330K)

On 4/5/2014 8:16 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

Yup, it's time.

Just fishing for opinions.

Both M119 powered cars have been running Mobil1 0W-40 European.  Neither is 
required to run it, as the spec came out well after both were in production.  
1998 was the beginning of the oil sensor crap, so the R129 doesn't have it.

In the hot summers of Florida it's not uncommon for the W140, which has over 
260,000 miles on it now, to have an idle oil pressure barely hitting the 1.0 
bar mark.  It comes up as soon as you increase RPM and is pretty well pegged 
after that.

I'm wondering if I might get a little higher idle oil pressure if I change to 
something like 20W-50, which is what I always ran in my MB diesels down here.

This viscosity is well within the operating temperatures listed in MBs oil spec 
sheets, so I don't see a problem doing it.  I'm just not sure I'll really gain 
anything from it.  I'm also not terribly keen about running an oil with a 
bottom end of 0W in this climate.

Thoughts?

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dan Penoff]

MMO?

Dan

On Apr 5, 2014, at 8:55 PM, Larry T wrote:

 Your choice will be fine IMO - but you might consider Amsoil products.   I 
 switched to it in my 911 and 91 300D last year and have been happy with it.  
 the analysis numbers look good and like you, I watch the idle oil pressure 
 and use that as an indication of how things are going, oil wise.  with a 
 summer hot engine I get slightly better pressure with the same weight oil 
 using Amsoil.But I use a 15W40 here in Va.  Not as hot as Fl. but we get 
 our share of days in the upper 90s at least for a couple of weeks or so in 
 the summer -- last Summer was pleasant though... only a week of 95F. with 95% 
 RH.
 
I also put a slug of MMO into the tank at each fill up.
 
 Sincerely,
 LarryT
 91 300D (230K)
 78 240D (330K)
 
 On 4/5/2014 8:16 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
 Yup, it's time.
 
 Just fishing for opinions.
 
 Both M119 powered cars have been running Mobil1 0W-40 European.  Neither is 
 required to run it, as the spec came out well after both were in production. 
  1998 was the beginning of the oil sensor crap, so the R129 doesn't have it.
 
 In the hot summers of Florida it's not uncommon for the W140, which has over 
 260,000 miles on it now, to have an idle oil pressure barely hitting the 1.0 
 bar mark.  It comes up as soon as you increase RPM and is pretty well pegged 
 after that.
 
 I'm wondering if I might get a little higher idle oil pressure if I change 
 to something like 20W-50, which is what I always ran in my MB diesels down 
 here.
 
 This viscosity is well within the operating temperatures listed in MBs oil 
 spec sheets, so I don't see a problem doing it.  I'm just not sure I'll 
 really gain anything from it.  I'm also not terribly keen about running an 
 oil with a bottom end of 0W in this climate.
 
 Thoughts?
 
 Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dwight Giles]

Marvel Mystery Oil? ??
On Apr 5, 2014 8:58 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 MMO?

 Dan

 On Apr 5, 2014, at 8:55 PM, Larry T wrote:

  Your choice will be fine IMO - but you might consider Amsoil products.
 I switched to it in my 911 and 91 300D last year and have been happy with
 it.  the analysis numbers look good and like you, I watch the idle oil
 pressure and use that as an indication of how things are going, oil wise.
  with a summer hot engine I get slightly better pressure with the same
 weight oil using Amsoil.But I use a 15W40 here in Va.  Not as hot as
 Fl. but we get our share of days in the upper 90s at least for a couple of
 weeks or so in the summer -- last Summer was pleasant though... only a week
 of 95F. with 95% RH.
 
 I also put a slug of MMO into the tank at each fill up.
 
  Sincerely,
  LarryT
  91 300D (230K)
  78 240D (330K)
 
  On 4/5/2014 8:16 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:
  Yup, it's time.
 
  Just fishing for opinions.
 
  Both M119 powered cars have been running Mobil1 0W-40 European.
  Neither is required to run it, as the spec came out well after both were
 in production.  1998 was the beginning of the oil sensor crap, so the R129
 doesn't have it.
 
  In the hot summers of Florida it's not uncommon for the W140, which has
 over 260,000 miles on it now, to have an idle oil pressure barely hitting
 the 1.0 bar mark.  It comes up as soon as you increase RPM and is pretty
 well pegged after that.
 
  I'm wondering if I might get a little higher idle oil pressure if I
 change to something like 20W-50, which is what I always ran in my MB
 diesels down here.
 
  This viscosity is well within the operating temperatures listed in MBs
 oil spec sheets, so I don't see a problem doing it.  I'm just not sure I'll
 really gain anything from it.  I'm also not terribly keen about running an
 oil with a bottom end of 0W in this climate.
 
  Thoughts?
 
  Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Thread

[Dwight Giles]

I use 15w 50 in my 90 300D. Seems to start in winter   I pound it on the
highway 300+ miles a week so I like the 50. Been doing that for over 100k
miles.
On Apr 5, 2014 8:19 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Correction:  15W-50

 Neem a number of years since I used the stuff.

 Dan


 On Apr 5, 2014, at 8:16 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

  Yup, it's time.
 
  Just fishing for opinions.
 
  Both M119 powered cars have been running Mobil1 0W-40 European.  Neither
 is required to run it, as the spec came out well after both were in
 production.  1998 was the beginning of the oil sensor crap, so the R129
 doesn't have it.
 
  In the hot summers of Florida it's not uncommon for the W140, which has
 over 260,000 miles on it now, to have an idle oil pressure barely hitting
 the 1.0 bar mark.  It comes up as soon as you increase RPM and is pretty
 well pegged after that.
 
  I'm wondering if I might get a little higher idle oil pressure if I
 change to something like 20W-50, which is what I always ran in my MB
 diesels down here.
 
  This viscosity is well within the operating temperatures listed in MBs
 oil spec sheets, so I don't see a problem doing it.  I'm just not sure I'll
 really gain anything from it.  I'm also not terribly keen about running an
 oil with a bottom end of 0W in this climate.
 
  Thoughts?
 
  Dan
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Re: [MBZ] oil thread... (no porch or lexi content)

[Curt Raymond]

I think you're wrong, who is the keeper of the Marshall emails?

I don't think M1 15w50 is that hard to pour compared to 15w40 conventional 
oil...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 17:44:28 -0500
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] oil thread... (no porch or lexi content)
Message-ID: a06240874c87cf61b1...@[192.168.1.51]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed

OK, I stayed out of the last oil thread until I did some research. 
the last oil thread some folks talked about using M1 0W-40 in their 
Diesels.  I distinctly remember the the revered Herr Doktor was 
adamant about not using M1 0W-40 in OM 60x or older Diesels.  So I 
wanted to check some oil facts out.

A more recent thread talked about the low zink content of oils made 
for the current crop of gassers.  A CF rating has the higher zink 
content we need.  I don't remember who posted the data link in that 
thread, but it was really good.

I took a little time today to look at the backs of some chosen oils. 
Most that have a C rating (for Diesels) are CH-4 or CI-4.  However, 
M1 V-twin oil had a CF (what we need) on the bottle for $9 a quart. 
I guess HD makes a lot of Vtwin diesels, Huh?

Mobil Delvac, which used to be a good dino substitute for M1 15W-50 
now has the CH-4 or CI-4 rating, meaning it does not have the zink 
that our engine bearings need.  Interestingly, the M1 0W-40 did have 
a CF rating.  So, it looks like it is ok now.    If my memory is 
right, Herr Doktor's main argument was that the base viscosity (0W) 
was too thin for OM62x, OM63x, OM61x, and OM60x engines.

The 15W-50 is very hard to pour in below 0F weather, and so I liked 
to use the 10-40 M1 in the winter or if the time before the next oil 
change was likely to include cold weather.  Now, it appears that the 
M1 10-40 is gone forever, or at least until Mobil changes its mind. 
Confusing, huh?

I am not sure if this is the same in all parts of the country.  YMMV. 
As we know, Mobil changes the formulations ad ratings on a whim at 
least once or twice a year.  Good luck!


  
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Re: [MBZ] oil thread... (no porch or lexi content)

[Allan Streib]

Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com writes:

 I don't think M1 15w50 is that hard to pour compared to 15w40
 conventional oil...

M1 15W50 is not hard to pour.  Marshall used to challenge people to put
a cup of M1 15W40 and a cup of conventional 15W40 in the freezer, let it
chill down, and compare the pourability of the two.  Then think about
which one you want in your engine when it's 10 degrees outside.

In my case it doesn't matter because 15W50 M1 has become unobtainium in
this area.  Wal-Mart stopped carrying it, and nobody else stocks it in
any quantity.  I've been using Chevron Delo for the past year or so;
good oil and easy to find.

Allan




 -Curt

 Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 17:44:28 -0500
 From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] oil thread... (no porch or lexi content)
 Message-ID: a06240874c87cf61b1...@[192.168.1.51]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii ; format=flowed

 OK, I stayed out of the last oil thread until I did some research. 
 the last oil thread some folks talked about using M1 0W-40 in their 
 Diesels.  I distinctly remember the the revered Herr Doktor was 
 adamant about not using M1 0W-40 in OM 60x or older Diesels.  So I 
 wanted to check some oil facts out.

 A more recent thread talked about the low zink content of oils made 
 for the current crop of gassers.  A CF rating has the higher zink 
 content we need.  I don't remember who posted the data link in that 
 thread, but it was really good.

 I took a little time today to look at the backs of some chosen oils. 
 Most that have a C rating (for Diesels) are CH-4 or CI-4.  However, 
 M1 V-twin oil had a CF (what we need) on the bottle for $9 a quart. 
 I guess HD makes a lot of Vtwin diesels, Huh?

 Mobil Delvac, which used to be a good dino substitute for M1 15W-50 
 now has the CH-4 or CI-4 rating, meaning it does not have the zink 
 that our engine bearings need.  Interestingly, the M1 0W-40 did have 
 a CF rating.  So, it looks like it is ok now.    If my memory is 
 right, Herr Doktor's main argument was that the base viscosity (0W) 
 was too thin for OM62x, OM63x, OM61x, and OM60x engines.

 The 15W-50 is very hard to pour in below 0F weather, and so I liked 
 to use the 10-40 M1 in the winter or if the time before the next oil 
 change was likely to include cold weather.  Now, it appears that the 
 M1 10-40 is gone forever, or at least until Mobil changes its mind. 
 Confusing, huh?

 I am not sure if this is the same in all parts of the country.  YMMV. 
 As we know, Mobil changes the formulations ad ratings on a whim at 
 least once or twice a year.  Good luck!


   
 ___
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[MBZ] oil thread... (no porch or lexi content)

[Dieselhead]

OK, I stayed out of the last oil thread until I did some research. 
the last oil thread some folks talked about using M1 0W-40 in their 
Diesels.  I distinctly remember the the revered Herr Doktor was 
adamant about not using M1 0W-40 in OM 60x or older Diesels.  So I 
wanted to check some oil facts out.


A more recent thread talked about the low zink content of oils made 
for the current crop of gassers.  A CF rating has the higher zink 
content we need.  I don't remember who posted the data link in that 
thread, but it was really good.


I took a little time today to look at the backs of some chosen oils. 
Most that have a C rating (for Diesels) are CH-4 or CI-4.  However, 
M1 V-twin oil had a CF (what we need) on the bottle for $9 a quart. 
I guess HD makes a lot of Vtwin diesels, Huh?


Mobil Delvac, which used to be a good dino substitute for M1 15W-50 
now has the CH-4 or CI-4 rating, meaning it does not have the zink 
that our engine bearings need.  Interestingly, the M1 0W-40 did have 
a CF rating.  So, it looks like it is ok now.If my memory is 
right, Herr Doktor's main argument was that the base viscosity (0W) 
was too thin for OM62x, OM63x, OM61x, and OM60x engines.


The 15W-50 is very hard to pour in below 0F weather, and so I liked 
to use the 10-40 M1 in the winter or if the time before the next oil 
change was likely to include cold weather.  Now, it appears that the 
M1 10-40 is gone forever, or at least until Mobil changes its mind. 
Confusing, huh?


I am not sure if this is the same in all parts of the country.  YMMV. 
As we know, Mobil changes the formulations ad ratings on a whim at 
least once or twice a year.  Good luck!


___
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Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

[Peter Frederick]

Broken rod damage to the block depends on which way the piston is going 
when the rod fails, and where the rod breaks.  If the cap fails on the 
down stroke (usually at the bottom), the crank will smack the end of 
the rod through the side of the block next time it goes round.


If the rod fails on the upstroke and the piston doesn't bounce off the 
head, the crank may miss the rod and the engine will stop without other 
damage.  Ditto if the rod breaks between journal on a non-power stroke 
-- if the crank doesn't hit anything, there will be little if any 
damage.


My neighbors had a first car 63 Chevy with a V8 that ran funny, and 
when they went to tune it up the #8 plug (rear, passenger side) was 
seized.  They pulled the engine and took it apart, and found that the 
rod had sheared just above the journal with the piston at TDC, probably 
several years and many miles before.  Those old 350s were so sloppily 
made they often ran funny right off the showroom floor, so no one ever 
tried to fix it until the kid wanted a hot rod!


Peter

Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

[OK Don]

Exactly - how narrow minded of them. We''ve planted enough trees that
the shade keeps the grass down, and a lot of that has now been
replaced by ground cover (vinca?), so the mowing is reaching a minimum
amount - just in time for the last kid to head off to college ;-)

On 6/28/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

So do I (and will be outside until dark tonight doing just that), but I
cannot seem to train either the cats or the mowers to do it for me, and
my friends and neighbors complain when it gets more than a couple feet
tall...

Peter
On Jun 27, 2006, at 10:26 PM, OK Don wrote:

 I HATE MOWERS/MOWING.


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

[LT Don]

Plus, trees are nice to sit under when cleaning the fish you caught
noodlin'.

On 6/28/06, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Exactly - how narrow minded of them. We''ve planted enough trees that
the shade keeps the grass down, and a lot of that has now been
replaced by ground cover (vinca?), so the mowing is reaching a minimum
amount - just in time for the last kid to head off to college ;-)






--
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-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

[Peter Frederick]

M1 15W50 has greatly reduced the oil consumption in my BS Quantum 
new mower (now six or more years old).  Runs like a champ, I change 
it every year or so...


Peter

Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

[OK Don]

I HATE MOWERS/MOWING.

On 6/27/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

M1 15W50 has greatly reduced the oil consumption in my BS Quantum
new mower (now six or more years old).  Runs like a champ, I change
it every year or so...

Peter


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

[Curt Raymond]

A broken connecting rod is no big deal, I got my Cub Cadet for $50 because it 
had thrown a rod, but throwing it out through the block is a much bigger event. 
My only suspicion is that the piston siezed suddenly and the rod started to 
bend so when it failed the pent up energy was enough for the shrapnel to shoot 
out through the block.
  $380 later and a new motor is on its way. 1/3 the cost of a replacement mower 
and the new one is 13 1/2hp rather than 13.
   
  The old White that we have for a backup mower had almost no compression left 
before I started using Mobil 1 in it. I expect it ran rich for years and built 
up quite a supply of carbon around the rings, now it runs pretty good...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:42:48 -0400
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil thread
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

Curt wrote:  the MTD had thrown a rod CLEAN OUT THE SIDE OF THE 
ENGINE

Hi Curt,
My Craftsman pushmower did something similar - pulled the rope and 
it 
was *very* easy to pull - it appears the rod has broken allowing the 
crank 
to turn without creating any compression - It might be worth fixin but 
when 
the grass needs cutting, time is important so we bought a new mower.  
When I 
get time (yeah, right) I might pull it apart to see how bad it is - and 
to 
check the prices of con rods.

I try to use M1 in my mowers to but it sounds like they make more 
engine 
noise with it - but it might be my paranoia
.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info 
http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test 
http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.



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Clogged pickup screens are pretty common on old tractors that had been run for 
years with non-detergent oil, any dirt or crud that got into the engine settled 
into the oil pan.
  Common practice when switching to detergent oil is to drop the pan and scrape 
the crud out. Guess what I need to do on my tractor this fall?
   
  -Curt
  '52 Farmall Super M
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:52:19 -0400
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sudden loss of oil pressure
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

Have you owned  maintained the car since new?  I had a 280S that the 
PO 
failed to have regular oil changes - the intake screen on the oil pump 
pickup was partially clogged with debris and it would act as you 
describe as 
it starved for oil.  Had another used MB with similar symptoms that had 
a 
main bearing fail.

Those are extreme possibilities - especially if the maintanence history 
is 
questionable - checking the gauge 1st is the prudent thing to do.

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info 
http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test 
http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/



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Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

[Curt Raymond]

Oaklahoma is pretty dry though right? Lotta dust while you mow if you haven't 
been watering?
   
  I like mowing, hate mowers. Any mower made in the last 20 years was made as 
cheap as possible. I need to finish the deck for my Cub Cadet, thats a real 
mower...
   
  The most fun mowing is taking down 1-4 poplar trees (Quaking Aspen for those 
not in New England) with the 6' bushhog behind the Farmall. If I can get the 
wheel of the Farmall to push it over the bushhog will eat it.
   
  Worst mowing was the time a skunk was hiding in the bushes I hit... Ohh that 
stank (pun intended).
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 22:26:09 -0500
From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil thread
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID:
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I HATE MOWERS/MOWING.

On 6/27/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 M1 15W50 has greatly reduced the oil consumption in my BS Quantum
 new mower (now six or more years old).  Runs like a champ, I change
 it every year or so...

 Peter

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



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Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2006 08:56:35 -0500
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Subject: [MBZ] SD TRANS QUESTION
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On my 82 SD, I have a strange trans issue that shows up only after 
running a couple hundred miles, shutting down, then starting up 
again. On restart, the trans sometimes shifts late out of second, and 
very late or not at all, out of third, even surpassing the marked 
shift point on the speedometer. USUALLY I can get it to shift by 
backing all the way off the throttle, but generally the car slows 
down quite a bit before the eventual upshift. Also, it will downshift 
into third from fourth far sooner than it needs. Cruising at 70 and 
encountering a slight grade can cause it to do so.

My indy checked the vacuum valves (flaps) and found they were fine. 
He said the problem would be caused by something internal to the 
transmission, and did a transmission flush. Shift quality improved, 
with a noticeably firmer 2-3 shift, but the issue remains. This trans 
is a rebuilt '85 unit, according to the P.O., who said he specified a 
later year trans to avoid the B-2 issue. When driven shorter 
distances or around town, the trans behaves fine. It's only on long 
trips that the problem shows up.

Also, I have recently noticed that the shifter sometimes will not go 
past N into R or P. Worn shifter bushings? Could there be a 
connection?

Thanks, all.

Dan
-- 
Dan Weeks
82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k
82 Mercedes 300SD, 270k

Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

you apparantly dont know much about Oklahoma.  No, we dont live in the 
desert, no we dont have to fight off them injuns.  There is not much out 
in western oklahoma but eastern ok is green and lush, with many scenic 
lakes and rivers and mountains.  This part of the state is called green 
country


Curt Raymond wrote:


Oaklahoma is pretty dry though right? Lotta dust while you mow if you haven't 
been watering?
   
  I like mowing, hate mowers. Any mower made in the last 20 years was made as cheap as possible. I need to finish the deck for my Cub Cadet, thats a real mower...
   
  The most fun mowing is taking down 1-4 poplar trees (Quaking Aspen for those not in New England) with the 6' bushhog behind the Farmall. If I can get the wheel of the Farmall to push it over the bushhog will eat it.
   
  Worst mowing was the time a skunk was hiding in the bushes I hit... Ohh that stank (pun intended).
   
  -Curt
   


--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

[LarryT]

Curt wrote:  the MTD had thrown a rod CLEAN OUT THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE

Hi Curt,
   My Craftsman pushmower did something similar - pulled the rope and it 
was *very* easy to pull - it appears the rod has broken allowing the crank 
to turn without creating any compression - It might be worth fixin but when 
the grass needs cutting, time is important so we bought a new mower.  When I 
get time (yeah, right) I might pull it apart to see how bad it is - and to 
check the prices of con rods.


   I try to use M1 in my mowers to but it sounds like they make more engine 
noise with it - but it might be my paranoia

.
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Diesel List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 9:49 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Oil thread


Note: What follows is an attempt to humorous, please do not attempt to 
inject any measure of serious discussion into this. I've recently 
discovered I hate my job and am now taking steps to introduce serious 
levity into my dreary little life...


 Last month at camp Dad and I were getting out the lawnmower so we could 
mow where we were planning to plant trees. We're developing a treefarm you 
see and planting in short grass is much more pleasant than tall grass. SO 
I asked dear old Dad if we shouldn't change the oil in said 4 year old 
13hp MTD mower. Nah, he said, it started well enough, its got plenty of 
oil in it, it'll be fine.
 Note here that last year when I changed the oil I didn't put in the 
synthetic oil I usually use because we didn't have enough hanging around 
AND we'd discovered that when filled with Mobil 1 10w30 my Grandmothers 
old Craftsman rear engine 8hp leaks badly. So I'd used just regular 10w30.


 Dad mowed a patch and then quit for lunch, after lunch he went out mowing 
again and I took my 7hp Cub Cadet out to grade the camp road with its back 
blade. Within about 10 minutes I noticed Dad strolling down the camp road 
so I quit gradeing and went over to see what was up.
 It turns out the MTD had thrown a rod CLEAN OUT THE SIDE OF THE ENGINE. 
Leaving a big old hole. Gee thats what the bottom of the piston looks 
like


 So I'm blaming this entirely on the lack of Mobil 1 in the crankcase...

 On a side note with the MTD dead we needed to revive the backup mower 
which is an old (well '91 but its got a million hours on it) White 11hp. 
We got that running by jumpstarting it off the truck, one jumper cable to 
the frame, one to the starter...

 I put Mobil 1 in that RIGHT AWAY and it ran great.

 -Curt


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Re: [MBZ] Oil thread

[David Brodbeck]

John M McIntosh wrote:
 I think on the www.bobistheoilguy.com forums http:// 
 theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
 they have a contest for who runs their mower the  longest without  
 ever changing the oil, something like 20  years?
   

Mower engines tend to be really over-built.  I recall reading somewhere
that a guy had played around to see what he could put in the crankcase
of an old Briggs and Stratton engine and still get it to run...he found
that even water worked, but once it boiled off the engine would seize.

[MBZ] OIL Thread continues

[Peter T . Arnold]

SNIP
Wait ... let me understand ... you drive 15K miles between oil
changes, without problem or worry, and feel good about it?  (Meaning,
once you've verified an engine is in top shape and ready to roll in
your fleet, you trust that it's good)

Even after being here a while, I didn't know some listers were going
so long between changes. I'm a little wowed over here

_SNIP___

My Benz is very happy with 20Kmi changes.  At that time the oil has
about 75% of the allowable F-Soot burden and all trace metals are with
in normal range..

When my friends express wonderment in this fact, I ask them how much
of their fuel they throw away.


--

Regards,

Peter T. Arnold

1987 300SDL  239KMI
1995 F-250 PowerChoke  190Kmi
1954 Mertopolitan Convertable, Hanger Queen
Wife has a Cruizer, as reliable as an Ice Box, the car that is!

Re: [MBZ] OIL Thread continues

[Mitch Haley]

Peter T. Arnold wrote:
 
 Even after being here a while, I didn't know some listers were going
 so long between changes. I'm a little wowed over here

Sump capacity has something to do with it, as does filter quality.
I'd rather go 15k on an 8qt sump with a Mann bypass filter than 7.5k
(factory interval on my old 2.2 Mopar) with a 4qt sump and a Fram.

[MBZ] Oil Thread

[Peter Arnold]

From: Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Crazy to go 20K on any oil
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

So, is the point of going 15-20,000 miles just so you can say you did
that?

_SNIP_

Following your reasoning:  What's the sense of going 500 miles on a
tank of fuel?  Just to say you did it.  Follow this rational and you
should be discarding one half of your Fuel.

In my 300SDL, I regularly go 20,000Kmi on Delvac1 as it has proven by
analysis to be meeting all of the requirements of new oil.  My drain
oil quality is probably better that new Dino oil.

On my truck (PSD) I use 15-40 Dino oil and change it at 5,000.  My
rational is that it has no cold starting difficulty such as our older
Benz's have.  It is also a major PIA to change for me, I am unable to
cope well with the spin-on filter (2 Qt's).  The only way I have been
able to consistently remove it with out dropping {I makes a mess!} is
to punch a hole and drain it first.


__SNIP___
It was also asked:

Is there a procedure written down somewhere for renewing the ATF in
the power steering system?  I'd like to use the Mobil 1 stuff but of
course would need to take the old stuff out first.

(No, I've not checked the maintenance CDs today but think I did look
for this earlier and couldn't find anything.)

To which I reply:

Twice a year, I use a suction device to remove the fluid in both the
P/S reservoir and the Brake Reservoir on all my cars.  I refill with
appropriate stuff. I change the Benz P/S filter once a year. 

Since starting that regiment about 25 years ago, I have noticed a vast
reduction in component failures in those systems.  I use DOT4 in the
Benz, which is one of the car's PIA idiosycrcies.







From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] wierd SDL charging problem.
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

One of the SDL's is not acting right.  SNIP

I can't let this go:

Unbolt the injection pump, I'll give you $64 for it.


--

Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.

1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%

1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes

2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale

1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}

None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)