Re: [MBZ] OT Apple Tree

2011-06-20 Thread Douglas

I didn't prune the tree last year time just got away with me. This
year I will make sure that I do. Thanks to all that replied!

Douglas


Standard practice, if I remember correctly, is to thin in june AFTER  
the natural drop occurs.  There is usually some spontaneous fruit  
drop in early to mid June, and if that doesn't reduce the crop to  
around one fruit per 4-6 of branch, you need to thin manually.


The fewer apples there are, the larger they will get, generally.

Pruning is also very important -- if this is a young tree, you should  
pick three or four strong branches that do NOT meet in a common place  
and make a stick with a nail or wire in each end and use them as  
braces between the trunk and branch fo hold them down and out.  Prune  
all upward shoots off the side branches, you want the tree to spread  
out, not grow up, which is it's natural tendency.


It should look fairly bare -- keep all branches open to sunlight, no  
internal shading of branches, and don't let it grow upwards once you  
have a set of nice framework branches.


Pretty much the opposite of a Bradford Pear.

Fertilize in the early spring, probably a couple pounds of 12-12-12  
for an average sized tree (less for dwarfs, of course).


I never sprayed mine, so I can't tell you when or what, but DO NOT  
spray ANY pesticide from a couple days before bud break until a  
couple days after the end of petal fall -- otherwise you will poison  
someone's bees and get poor fruit set.


Peter

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[MBZ] OT Apple Tree

2011-06-19 Thread Douglas
I know this is OT and never had a apple tree before and now I do. It’s a Fuji 
and last year we got maybe 4-5 apples off it. This year the thing is so loaded 
down that the limbs are bending. 

When and how much do I thin the fruit out?

Douglas
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Re: [MBZ] OT Apple Tree

2011-06-19 Thread Mitch Haley

Douglas wrote:


When and how much do I thin the fruit out?



I'd like to know too. My semi-dwarves were way overloaded last year.
I don't think another bumper crop of undersized apples this year would be a good 
idea.

I'd assume the sooner the better with thinning.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT Apple Tree

2011-06-19 Thread Lee
Do you prune your apple trees in the fall?

This is the first and best way to protect against over-production of 
undersized, unhappy fruit.

It's an important practice, not only to prevent over-production of 
fruit, but to give the tree a good structure and keep the canopy open 
enough that light can get through to all of the branches.


Lee

Mitch Haley wrote:
 Douglas wrote:

 When and how much do I thin the fruit out?


 I'd like to know too. My semi-dwarves were way overloaded last year.
 I don't think another bumper crop of undersized apples this year would 
 be a good idea.
 I'd assume the sooner the better with thinning.

 Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] OT Apple Tree

2011-06-19 Thread Peter Frederick
Standard practice, if I remember correctly, is to thin in june AFTER  
the natural drop occurs.  There is usually some spontaneous fruit  
drop in early to mid June, and if that doesn't reduce the crop to  
around one fruit per 4-6 of branch, you need to thin manually.


The fewer apples there are, the larger they will get, generally.

Pruning is also very important -- if this is a young tree, you should  
pick three or four strong branches that do NOT meet in a common place  
and make a stick with a nail or wire in each end and use them as  
braces between the trunk and branch fo hold them down and out.  Prune  
all upward shoots off the side branches, you want the tree to spread  
out, not grow up, which is it's natural tendency.


It should look fairly bare -- keep all branches open to sunlight, no  
internal shading of branches, and don't let it grow upwards once you  
have a set of nice framework branches.


Pretty much the opposite of a Bradford Pear.

Fertilize in the early spring, probably a couple pounds of 12-12-12  
for an average sized tree (less for dwarfs, of course).


I never sprayed mine, so I can't tell you when or what, but DO NOT  
spray ANY pesticide from a couple days before bud break until a  
couple days after the end of petal fall -- otherwise you will poison  
someone's bees and get poor fruit set.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] OT Apple Tree

2011-06-19 Thread Lee
I neither spray pesticides nor use chemical fertilizers. Just a 
shovel-full of compost now and then.

I do plant my apple trees as a guild with other friendly plants to help 
meet the apple's needs, including perennial nitrogen fixers.

Insectaries like dill, fennel, yarrow, lovage attract predatory wasps 
which in turn keep down the unwelcome bugs.

Good advice on the pruning.

Lee

Peter Frederick wrote:
 Standard practice, if I remember correctly, is to thin in june AFTER 
 the natural drop occurs.  There is usually some spontaneous fruit drop 
 in early to mid June, and if that doesn't reduce the crop to around 
 one fruit per 4-6 of branch, you need to thin manually.

 The fewer apples there are, the larger they will get, generally.

 Pruning is also very important -- if this is a young tree, you should 
 pick three or four strong branches that do NOT meet in a common place 
 and make a stick with a nail or wire in each end and use them as 
 braces between the trunk and branch fo hold them down and out.  Prune 
 all upward shoots off the side branches, you want the tree to spread 
 out, not grow up, which is it's natural tendency.

 It should look fairly bare -- keep all branches open to sunlight, no 
 internal shading of branches, and don't let it grow upwards once you 
 have a set of nice framework branches.

 Pretty much the opposite of a Bradford Pear.

 Fertilize in the early spring, probably a couple pounds of 12-12-12 
 for an average sized tree (less for dwarfs, of course).

 I never sprayed mine, so I can't tell you when or what, but DO NOT 
 spray ANY pesticide from a couple days before bud break until a couple 
 days after the end of petal fall -- otherwise you will poison 
 someone's bees and get poor fruit set.

 Peter

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Re: [MBZ] OT Apple Tree

2011-06-19 Thread Dieselhead

1. bloom
2. Blossom set
3. pea size
4. 3/8 to 3/4 dia
5 larger than 3/4 dia, By hand only

The first stages can be done with Sevin, or hormone or by hand.  Do 
not use Sevin during bloom, as you do not want to kill bees, and 
honeybees in particular.


I know this is OT and never had a apple tree before and now I do. 
It's a Fuji and last year we got maybe 4-5 apples off it. This year 
the thing is so loaded down that the limbs are bending.


When and how much do I thin the fruit out?

Douglas
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Re: [MBZ] OT Apple Tree

2011-06-19 Thread Dieselhead
Established apple trees seldom  (Never) need fertilizer in the 
midwest.  Don't know about your area, but it sounds like you have 
worked to establish a good system, so fertilizer is probably not 
needed unless the leaves show a nutrient deficiency.


Fertilizer is probably the most overused, wasted product in the 
world.  It is always blamed on agriculture, but suburban lawns and 
glof courses are the most overfertilized patches of earth on the 
planet.


Without using Sevin or hormone, hand thinning is your option, and the 
sooner the better.


As Peter and others have said, the best method of thinning is pruning 
in dormancy.  However, unless you have varieties subject to fire 
blight, you can prune anytime.  For my .02, it is best pr prune when 
the trees are dormant.




I neither spray pesticides nor use chemical fertilizers. Just a
shovel-full of compost now and then.

I do plant my apple trees as a guild with other friendly plants to help
meet the apple's needs, including perennial nitrogen fixers.

Insectaries like dill, fennel, yarrow, lovage attract predatory wasps
which in turn keep down the unwelcome bugs.

Good advice on the pruning.

Lee

Peter Frederick wrote:

 Standard practice, if I remember correctly, is to thin in june AFTER
 the natural drop occurs.  There is usually some spontaneous fruit drop
 in early to mid June, and if that doesn't reduce the crop to around
 one fruit per 4-6 of branch, you need to thin manually.

 The fewer apples there are, the larger they will get, generally.

 Pruning is also very important -- if this is a young tree, you should
 pick three or four strong branches that do NOT meet in a common place
 and make a stick with a nail or wire in each end and use them as
 braces between the trunk and branch fo hold them down and out.  Prune
 all upward shoots off the side branches, you want the tree to spread
 out, not grow up, which is it's natural tendency.

 It should look fairly bare -- keep all branches open to sunlight, no
 internal shading of branches, and don't let it grow upwards once you
 have a set of nice framework branches.

 Pretty much the opposite of a Bradford Pear.

 Fertilize in the early spring, probably a couple pounds of 12-12-12
 for an average sized tree (less for dwarfs, of course).

 I never sprayed mine, so I can't tell you when or what, but DO NOT
 spray ANY pesticide from a couple days before bud break until a couple
 days after the end of petal fall -- otherwise you will poison
 someone's bees and get poor fruit set.

 Peter

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Re: [MBZ] OT Apple Tree

2011-06-19 Thread Lee
True.

Over-fertilizing, particularly with chemical fertilizers, also creates 
super-abundant nitrogen in the foliage which makes your plants much more 
attractive to insect pests. Which then drives you to use the pesticides 
in addition to the chemical fertilizers.

Or so I have read.


Lee

Dieselhead wrote:
 Established apple trees seldom  (Never) need fertilizer in the 
 midwest.  Don't know about your area, but it sounds like you have 
 worked to establish a good system, so fertilizer is probably not 
 needed unless the leaves show a nutrient deficiency.

 Fertilizer is probably the most overused, wasted product in the 
 world.  It is always blamed on agriculture, but suburban lawns and 
 glof courses are the most overfertilized patches of earth on the planet.

 Without using Sevin or hormone, hand thinning is your option, and the 
 sooner the better.

 As Peter and others have said, the best method of thinning is pruning 
 in dormancy.  However, unless you have varieties subject to fire 
 blight, you can prune anytime.  For my .02, it is best pr prune when 
 the trees are dormant.


 I neither spray pesticides nor use chemical fertilizers. Just a
 shovel-full of compost now and then.

 I do plant my apple trees as a guild with other friendly plants to help
 meet the apple's needs, including perennial nitrogen fixers.

 Insectaries like dill, fennel, yarrow, lovage attract predatory wasps
 which in turn keep down the unwelcome bugs.

 Good advice on the pruning.

 Lee

 Peter Frederick wrote:
  Standard practice, if I remember correctly, is to thin in june AFTER
  the natural drop occurs.  There is usually some spontaneous fruit drop
  in early to mid June, and if that doesn't reduce the crop to around
  one fruit per 4-6 of branch, you need to thin manually.

  The fewer apples there are, the larger they will get, generally.

  Pruning is also very important -- if this is a young tree, you should
  pick three or four strong branches that do NOT meet in a common place
  and make a stick with a nail or wire in each end and use them as
  braces between the trunk and branch fo hold them down and out.  Prune
  all upward shoots off the side branches, you want the tree to spread
  out, not grow up, which is it's natural tendency.

  It should look fairly bare -- keep all branches open to sunlight, no
  internal shading of branches, and don't let it grow upwards once you
  have a set of nice framework branches.

  Pretty much the opposite of a Bradford Pear.

  Fertilize in the early spring, probably a couple pounds of 12-12-12
  for an average sized tree (less for dwarfs, of course).

  I never sprayed mine, so I can't tell you when or what, but DO NOT
  spray ANY pesticide from a couple days before bud break until a couple
  days after the end of petal fall -- otherwise you will poison
  someone's bees and get poor fruit set.

  Peter

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Re: [MBZ] OT Apple Tree

2011-06-19 Thread redghost

Prop the branches up.

Other than that, just make sure you use a good bug oil to reduce  
infestation of fruit.  If you want to cull, look for fruit that may  
impinge on others or that is a tad too small or misformed



clay

Gump - She is green, simple and runs and runs
Cleo - Used by the Queen of Denial
POS SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers




On Jun 19, 2011, at 7:35 AM, Douglas wrote:

I know this is OT and never had a apple tree before and now I do.  
It’s a Fuji and last year we got maybe 4-5 apples off it. This year  
the thing is so loaded down that the limbs are bending.


When and how much do I thin the fruit out?

Douglas
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