I managed to get 6 hours with "Old Blue". Finished the mechanical installation of the injection pump and set the timing using the locking tool. I'd locked it prior to removal, and then once I had it in place I removed the locking tool and re-installed the chain tensioner. Rotated the engine a few times and then used the locking tool to check the timing and it had changed to ~8 deg ATDC. It was a piece of cake to set it back to 14.5 using the locking tool and the IP adjustment screw. Has anyone ever verified the accuracy of this method vs. the RIV tester?
I also pulled the valve cover and replaced the gaskets and checked the timing chain wear. Spent a fair amount of time cleaning off the valve cover - the breather tubes were all fossilized and had leaked oil. Lost more time trying to figure out how to measure timing chain wear. Installed the new vacuum pump with gasket. I could not find the correct torque specification for the vacuum pump bolts. The procedure for removing the injection pump lists 43-610 (removing and installing the vacuum pump) as preceding work, but that procedure is not including on my disk, and I can't find it in the Technical Data book. I decided to use 10 Nm, which might be on the light side, and then go higher if there are any oil leaks. I also measured the resistance of all the glow plugs, and to my relief they all measure 0.6 ohms. Installed new O-rings on all the fuel lines, and checked the basket fuel filter. Unlike my '87 124 wagon which has the clear in-line filter, this '95 has a basked filter built into the main filter housing. It looks like it will last a lot longer because you can clean it out easily, but I don't like the fact that it is not easy to inspect. Examined more of the wiring harness and found more insulation either gone or crumbling. I am definitely proving that old adage about cheap Mercedes. So far I've probably spend about $1000 for parts, and I've only driven the car about 40 feet to get it off the trailer and into my garage, and I'm probably going to have to drop another $400 for the engine wiring harness. I'm going to see how this liquid electrical tape works, but if it doesn't then I'll budget for a new harness for next month's paycheck. Very respectfully, /s/ Max Dillon '87 300TD 320k miles '95 E300 274k miles (project) '73 Balboa 20 Charleston SC _______________________________________ http://www.okiebenz.com For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/ To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
