I think so. I put a whole new set in a year or so ago when I couldn't
get it to go. I had inadvertently run it out of fuel as I was watching
for the orange low fuel light to come on and on that occasion it did not
light up. Since then, it seems to work fine but I have learned a lesson
and no
Yes, I admit you folks keep telling me to check them and as I say, when
the weather is warm, it runs fine and when the weather is cold, I don't
use it so it has been a job left waiting for me. I even bought the fancy
special wrenches several years ago and have yet to get them dirty.
Randy
, 02 Nov 2010 13:54:20 -0400
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 - 240D - Engine heater plug
Message-ID: 4cd0504c.6000...@voyager.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Curt Raymond wrote:
U
...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 - 240D - Engine heater plug
Message-ID: 4cd0504c.6000...@voyager.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Curt Raymond wrote:
U, no. BTDT got the t-shirt. At -10F a 616 is iffy, at -20F
Walt Zarnoch wrote:
My setup for the truck will likely involve turning on the aux pump and block
heater, then the blower motor once the engine is toasty in order to get the
cab bearable.
I don't think 400w can do much for the entire cab, but if you leave the
defrosters on the stray heat from
True, but it'll hopefully get it up at least a few degrees, anything's
better than 28 in my book. :)
Walt
On Nov 3, 2010 2:57 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
Walt Zarnoch wrote:
My setup for the truck will likely involve turning on the aux pump and
block
heater, then the blower motor
My 76 300D gets to where it really does not want to start up even at 50
F even with the block heater plugged in. It cranks pretty good and tries
to start but often takes several tries and runs pretty slow until it
really gets going. I know you folks have told me I need to check my
valve
Glow plugs working?
R A Bennell wrote:
My 76 300D gets to where it really does not want to start up even at
50 F even with the block heater plugged in. It cranks pretty good and
tries to start but often takes several tries and runs pretty slow
until it really gets going. I know you folks
Sounds like your valves are too tight.
My 76 300D gets to where it really does not want to start up even at
50 F even with the block heater plugged in. It cranks pretty good
and tries to start but often takes several tries and runs pretty
slow until it really gets going. I know you folks
-0500
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 - 240D - Engine heater plug
Message-ID:
aanlktik2b6f2wlyh4aynizxja3pjn+vaomw0p9b+e...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Run Mobil1 and pencil glow plugs
Curt Raymond wrote:
U, no. BTDT got the t-shirt. At -10F a 616 is iffy, at -20F it will not
start Mobil 1 be dammed. That was with my '83 240D, the starter just can't spin
the engine fast enough long enough to start at that temp.
Did you ever try the hair dryer in the intake trick?
a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 4' pipe...
-Curt
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2010 10:41:29 -0400
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 - 240D - Engine heater plug
Message-ID: 4cced199.4080...@voyager.net
Content-Type: text/plain
The 617 in the '76 300D started great with M1 at -5, but would hardly crank
with dino oil without the engine heater.
ou are right - the 60x engines are a whole different story - great engines
all around.
On Tue, Nov 2, 2010 at 11:31 AM, Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com wrote:
U, no. BTDT
List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 - 240D - Engine heater plug
Message-ID:
aanlkti=3ue_unfyvu+e9jcmdioanaforvov+xgqqj...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Mitch wrote:
Right side, threads go through the block wall and into the water jacket.
Yah
Curt Raymond wrote:
Based on the big fun Jim Cathey had doing the Frankenheap's block heater I
bought mine from Rusty but will let my Indy do the install...
Actually it depends, if I end up taking the 240D to camp this weekend I'll have a local Indy there do it for half my regular guy's labor
Last one I did was on an OM616 out of the car. 5-6 feet didn't do it
and trying to hold the engine down to counter the cheater was a real
problem. I tried the flame wrench also. Ended up with a 4 pounder
and a big chisel, after the flame wrench and 6 feet of cheater didn't
work. The plug
I took a 10 foot section of pipe, a section of hex stock, an impact
rated socket, a 3 foor breaker bar, and jumped on it a few times...
Walt
On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 10:50 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
Last one I did was on an OM616 out of the car. 5-6 feet didn't do it and
trying
Wonder if you could snake a piece of tubing down into the drain plug area
through one of the ports on the front of the engine and then suck out the
remaining water/AF?
.
I once used a heater that was installed in the bottom radiator hose
On Mon, 01 Nov 2010 10:41:29 -0400 Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:
Curt Raymond wrote:
Based on the big fun Jim Cathey had doing the Frankenheap's block
heater I bought mine from Rusty but will let my Indy do the install...
Actually it depends, if I end up taking the 240D to camp
Mitch Haley wrote:
Curt Raymond wrote:
Based on the big fun Jim Cathey had doing the Frankenheap's
block heater I bought mine from Rusty but will let my Indy
do the install...
Actually it depends, if I end up taking the 240D to camp
this weekend I'll have a local Indy there do it
Run Mobil1 and pencil glow plugs - forget the heater (unless it's leaking
coolant). I've been amazed what a difference that combination makes in the
cold (with properly adjusted valves).
On Mon, Nov 1, 2010 at 4:10 PM, Fmiser fmi...@gmail.com wrote:
Mitch Haley wrote:
Curt Raymond wrote:
My Indy reports using an air chisel from underneath. He says he had a customer
who broke a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 4' pipe...
-Curt
Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2010 10:41:29 -0400
From: Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 - 240D
My Indy reports using an air chisel from underneath. He says he had a
customer who broke a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a 4' pipe...
I used a 3/4 drive socket and a cheater pipe.
-- Jim
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For new and used parts go to
referred to as The Fairbanks package
-Curt
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 12:39:38 -0400
From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 - 240D - Engine heater plug
Message-ID: 7bdad8ccfded40e4a2f42919ff878...@pc466116028214
Content-Type
: [MBZ] W123 - 240D - Engine heater plug
Message-ID: 4cced199.4080...@voyager.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Curt Raymond wrote:
Based on the big fun Jim Cathey had doing the Frankenheap's block
heater I bought mine from Rusty but will let my Indy do the install
The plug that you plug in to heat the block, where exactly is that in the
engine. It's not in a cylinder wall obviously, but is it in an exhaust
channel? How does it help heat the block? Can it allow exhaust/smoke out?
EdB
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For new
Ed Booher wrote:
The plug that you plug in to heat the block, where exactly is that in the
engine.
Right side, threads go through the block wall and into the water jacket.
It heats the coolant, in turn warming all the water cooled areas of the engine.
If it leaks, you get coolant or steam. If
Mitch wrote:
Right side, threads go through the block wall and into the water jacket.
Yah - and it is indeed in there tight.
Take your time, get good tool grab on / in the plug - it really does come out.
We put one in a year ago.
mao
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