[MBZ] W123 thermostat
Changed out the thermostat on my '77 240D this evening. The old one lets the car run cooler than the new one I installed last fall, so I put the old one back in. Noticed that I have no gasket at the thermostat housing and didn't see one on Rusty's online catalog. There is one gasket shown but it has only two holes vice the three holes/bolts at the thermostat housing, so I think it is for lower toward the engine block. Should there be a gasket here, other than the rubber O-Ring that is on the thermostat? Topic two. Does anyone have one of the bolts used for installing the thermostat in his/her junk pile that you can mail to me? I have two of the originals, but the third bolt is too long and has some washers stacked up to make the correct length. This isn't my doing -- the car was this way when I got it. I'd like to get back to stock bolts. D. -- There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies. -- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_ 1977 240D 1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat
Its only supposed to have the rubber oring deal around the thermostat. LT Don wrote: Changed out the thermostat on my '77 240D this evening. The old one lets the car run cooler than the new one I installed last fall, so I put the old one back in. Noticed that I have no gasket at the thermostat housing and didn't see one on Rusty's online catalog. There is one gasket shown but it has only two holes vice the three holes/bolts at the thermostat housing, so I think it is for lower toward the engine block. Should there be a gasket here, other than the rubber O-Ring that is on the thermostat? Topic two. Does anyone have one of the bolts used for installing the thermostat in his/her junk pile that you can mail to me? I have two of the originals, but the third bolt is too long and has some washers stacked up to make the correct length. This isn't my doing -- the car was this way when I got it. I'd like to get back to stock bolts. D. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250 http://www.striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat
No, only the rubber ring is necessary. You should run about 175 to 195 F -- cooling is NOT better, as engine efficiency is lower at lower temps. After all, the radiator will dump MORE heat the hotter the coolant and the cooler the exterior air (larger temperature drop). With proper coolant, no engine damage will occur so long as the temp guage is out of the red range. My 300D will start to heat up above 85C on long grades in the mountains in the summer with the AC on -- never gotten above 100, though. Peter
Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat
LT Don wrote: Should there be a gasket here, other than the rubber O-Ring that is on the thermostat? Nope. A little Hi-Tack on the mating surfaces (and on the o-ring) can make stubborn leaky housings a little happier, though. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi 1980 300TD 180+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi 1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi 1972 220 278+kmi
Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat
Peter -- I understand that hotter is better (with our cars and with our females). However, there is that small, nagging voice that start to whisper into my ear when the temp needle leaves the 175F and starts to climb to the 212 mark. Hey, I am Iowa. If I start to approach 212F climbing OUR hills, I have to wonder what will happen if I head out this summer to visit my parents in WV. (!!) Anal retentive as I am, I am afraid I'd have to get yet another driver's seat (due to brown spots) from Kaleb if I saw the temp needle swing up near the 250F mark. It was there once, but that was when I broke a alternator / water pump belt. Perhaps this is why I flew fixed wing rather than rotary wing planes. D. On 6/18/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: No, only the rubber ring is necessary. You should run about 175 to 195 F -- cooling is NOT better, as engine efficiency is lower at lower temps. After all, the radiator will dump MORE heat the hotter the coolant and the cooler the exterior air (larger temperature drop). With proper coolant, no engine damage will occur so long as the temp guage is out of the red range. My 300D will start to heat up above 85C on long grades in the mountains in the summer with the AC on -- never gotten above 100, though. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies. -- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_ 1977 240D 1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat
It will heat up some in the mountains of WV in the summer for sure -- that's where I was last summer. Not a big deal, just watch. It should never be below 175 after warmup. If it is, the thermostat isn't working correctly, and may neither close NOR open completely -- runs cold in the winter and too hot in the summer. Peter
Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat
LT Don wrote: Peter -- I understand that hotter is better (with our cars and with our females). However, there is that small, nagging voice that start to whisper into my ear when the temp needle leaves the 175F and starts to climb to the 212 mark. Hey, I am Iowa. If I start to approach 212F climbing OUR hills, I have to wonder what will happen if I head out this summer to visit my parents in WV. (!!) When the temp reaches 212 the engine fan kicks in to add more cooling. Before that, there is only the passage of fluid thru the radiator and the flow of air thru it to cool the engine. Is the area between the AC condenser and the radiator clear of debris?? Anal retentive as I am, I am afraid I'd have to get yet another driver's seat (due to brown spots) from Kaleb if I saw the temp needle swing up near the 250F mark. It was there once, but that was when I broke a alternator / water pump belt. Perhaps this is why I flew fixed wing rather than rotary wing planes. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat
Manuala calls for the little notches to be lined up properlly on those thermos. I do not know if it makes a difference. When I did my 1977 300D it also ran a bit hotter, but I also change the fluid to the G-5 stuff at the same time from a standard prestone green/Tom - Original Message - From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 11:43 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat Peter -- I understand that hotter is better (with our cars and with our females). However, there is that small, nagging voice that start to whisper into my ear when the temp needle leaves the 175F and starts to climb to the 212 mark. Hey, I am Iowa. If I start to approach 212F climbing OUR hills, I have to wonder what will happen if I head out this summer to visit my parents in WV. (!!) Anal retentive as I am, I am afraid I'd have to get yet another driver's seat (due to brown spots) from Kaleb if I saw the temp needle swing up near the 250F mark. It was there once, but that was when I broke a alternator / water pump belt. Perhaps this is why I flew fixed wing rather than rotary wing planes. D. On 6/18/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: No, only the rubber ring is necessary. You should run about 175 to 195 F -- cooling is NOT better, as engine efficiency is lower at lower temps. After all, the radiator will dump MORE heat the hotter the coolant and the cooler the exterior air (larger temperature drop). With proper coolant, no engine damage will occur so long as the temp guage is out of the red range. My 300D will start to heat up above 85C on long grades in the mountains in the summer with the AC on -- never gotten above 100, though. Peter ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com -- There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies. -- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_ 1977 240D 1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] W123 thermostat
Tom Scordato wrote: Manuala calls for the little notches to be lined up properlly on those thermos. I do not know if it makes a difference. When I did my 1977 300D it also ran a bit hotter, but I also change the fluid to the G-5 stuff at the same time from a standard prestone green/Tom Any time you change out a thermostat that hasn't been fully closing, the engine WILL run a bit hotter. That is NOT a fault, it's a feature and one that desirable. Thermostats are designed to PREVENT cooling, not to improve cooling. Once the thermostat is open all the way (that 8+ mm at 94 deg C in a 123 diesel) it can do NOTHING more and then it's up to the air through the radiator driven by the speed of the vehicle and the engine fan as well as the volume of coolant driven by the water pump to cool the engine. The thermostat makes NO further contribution. If the thermostat opens 8+ mm at 94 deg. C but the engine is running too hot, it's caused by something OTHER than the thermostat. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
