Hi Gang -
Just to update everyone on the status of my non functioning 1st
gear. Turns out it doesn't just fail to engage with kickdown from a
stop - it also does not respond to pulling the gear lever all the way to
the lowest selection. After several emails between me and Sun Valley -
It just moves a bit, not 1/4 I can hear mine click on/off. Just put
the ohmmeter on it and see if it is open and closed.
--R
On 7/20/13 7:15 PM, Larry T wrote:
I tinkered with it and it only moved about 1/16 of a inch. I
expected 1/4 or so.
___
I had similar problems with my 123 years ago.
Started in 2nd and shifted up way to soon.
Turned out the kickdown cable was out of adjustment.
On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 6:48 AM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
Hi Don,
Man! I hope not! This AT is only 25 months old (with a 24 month
Question - the Kickdown switch under the acelerator pedal - how much
movement should it have? I tinkered with it and it only moved about
1/16 of a inch. I expected 1/4 or so but I've never had to work
on one before... Comments??
BTW, having new grommets on the shift rod makes a
Measure electrical continuity, not range of motion. You don't care how far
it move, you want to know whether it closes (or opens) or not.
On Sat, Jul 20, 2013 at 6:15 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
Question - the Kickdown switch under the acelerator pedal - how much
movement should
Question - the Kickdown switch under the acelerator pedal - how much
movement should it have? I tinkered with it and it only moved
about 1/16 of a inch. I expected 1/4 or so but I've never
had to work on one before... Comments??
BTW, having new grommets on the shift rod makes a
Rich,
No, don't think that's the case (switch not installed) - as it used to
work I'll send a note to the rebuilder and see if they can send a
image of the electr connection I should be looking for -- had my Indy
replace both grommets (at base of shift lever and at end of rod near
front
Sun Valley said to look at the aft end ofthe AT to see if the kick down
switch was getting power..
I looked but didn't see anything obvious - i need to look again --
maybe I'll look at the parts diagrams in the hope it will show the switch...
Thx
Larry
On 7/18/2013 5:25 PM, Dieselhead
Hi Don,
Man! I hope not! This AT is only 25 months old (with a 24 month
warranty) - Rusty said he had sold about 3000 and only had 3 problems-
2 of them were installer problems and 1 was a easy external fix
The AT was around 1400 plus 550 to install for $2k I would hope to
get
I looked but didn't see anything obvious - i need to look again --
maybe I'll look at the parts diagrams in the hope it will show the
switch...
It's not a switch, it's a solenoid. The only switch is under your
foot, unless your shifter has a side-gate B switch.
Still, when the paraphrased
One of those installer problems was my buddy's 79 450SL. His tranny
was going bad, he bought one from Rusty and had the local well-known
indie in Houston replace it. They managed to bugger it up somehow I
don't remember, got another one and it is still fine.
--R
On 7/19/13 7:48 AM, Larry
Dieselhead wrote:
At the least, I think
it needs a k1 spring, and maybe do the b2 piston kit while there, try to
flush out the valve body, then change filter and refill.
Are you pulling a WILTON?
Thinking the worst of a problem?
K1 and B2 and flush sounds like somewhat easy work but it might
Dieselhead wrote:
At the least, I think
it needs a k1 spring, and maybe do the b2 piston kit while there, try to
flush out the valve body, then change filter and refill.
Are you pulling a WILTON?
Thinking the worst of a problem?
K1 and B2 and flush sounds like somewhat easy work but it
Pressed down is ON, connects the circuit, zero resistance
Up is OFF, infinite resistance
You can reach down there and grab it and pull up the inner part, which
looks to be pressed into the housing with some tabs. You might able to
just take it apart and clean it.
To get it out, fold down
Hey Rich -
My 91 300D no longer seems to kick down when starting from a stop.
I checked the switch and it seemed to move freely. So my problem is
elsewhere. Is there a switch or valve on the AT? I even tried to pull
the gear ever back all the way to engage Low Gear but still no go...
I really don't know much about that aspect, others seem to have some
better tranny knowledge. Maybe if you can't see the switch that might
indicate it was not installed?
--R
On 7/18/13 4:16 PM, Larry T wrote:
Hey Rich -
My 91 300D no longer seems to kick down when starting from a
stop.
Hey Rich -
My 91 300D no longer seems to kick down when starting from a
stop. I checked the switch and it seemed to move freely. So my
problem is elsewhere. Is there a switch or valve on the AT? I
even tried to pull the gear ever back all the way to engage Low Gear
but still no go...
That makes it a NO switch. so If I unhook the wires at the trans
there is NO chance of a faulty kickdown signal (even if I took out
the switch, there may be scuffed or disintegrated insulation or some
other cause to short the wires together.)
Pressed down is ON, connects the circuit,
Just because the switch moves freely does not mean that it is functioning.
You need to measure continuity to determine that.
However, I do fear that you have deeper tranny issues, but have no idea
what :-(
On Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 3:16 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
Hey Rich -
Well, I unplugged the kickdown switch (at the switch) and drove home.
Shifting is still not right, but seems to be better. At the least, I
think it needs a k1 spring, and maybe do the b2 piston kit while
there, try to flush out the valve body, then change filter and refill.
Or else do filter
Ah - that would be the Diesel version of the Cessna! Only a cool half
million dollars.
On Thu, Jul 18, 2013 at 8:43 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
Now, if your pisant could do 45 mpg@150mph, you'd have somethin'!
--
OK Don
2013 F150, 19 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 45 mpg
1957
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