If you replace everything everyone tells you to, you will end up with
a completely new engine.
There are length spec's for the bolts in WIS. If they exceed the spec
they have stretched and need to be replaced. If not they are good to
use again.
-Dave Walton
On 8/22/09, Kaleb C. Striplin
So Im right in the middle of pulling the head on the 140. Im down to
pulling the timing chain slide rail pins and removing the head bolts. I
have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but the
WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out with
this
On Sat, 22 Aug 2009 14:13:28 -0500 Kaleb C. Striplin
ka...@striplin.net wrote:
I have the special MB slide hammer type tool for removing the pins but
the WILL NOT budge at all. I have never had problems getting those out
with this tool. Im thinking I need to try the other type of extractor
Use the other extractor, it's better than a slide hammer, and is in
fact the one specified in the manual. Works great.
Loosen the head bolts in reverse order of tightening. I've done that
for 30 years or more now, it's pretty much the standard way to do
things.
There is a specified way
Books says side hammer type or screw type can be used.
Book does not say what order to tighten bolts, only the sequence of each
bolt. IE torq to this spec, then to this, and so on, but not which bolt
to do first, 2nd, and so on.
Craig McCluskey wrote:
On Sat, 22 Aug 2009 14:13:28 -0500
I already removed the cam in the specified manner.
Peter Frederick wrote:
Use the other extractor, it's better than a slide hammer, and is in
fact the one specified in the manual. Works great.
Loosen the head bolts in reverse order of tightening. I've done that
for 30 years or more now,
I used a long bolt with multiple layers of washers and a nut to apply
pressure. Was not pretty, but it worked. Washers fit over the pin to
apply pressure at the base topped off with one with a smaller hole
that allowed the nut to seat and transfer pressure to the others.
Looking for tightening
My copy of WIS won't start. Not sure why. I see it on the Process
list, but no window appears.
The sequence is in there somewhere. It's a bad scan of a bad drawing
with numbers in circles showing the order. About half the numbers are
legible.
As I recall there were 2 torque steps, then you turn
Actually, it does, but not by number. I'll dig it up later. Center
out, alternating sides.
Big pain, really takes two people to do, one to work the wrench and
one to keep track of the bolts.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go
yea, thats it, but I guess it does not matter what order you do the
bolts though.
dave walton wrote:
My copy of WIS won't start. Not sure why. I see it on the Process
list, but no window appears.
The sequence is in there somewhere. It's a bad scan of a bad drawing
with numbers in circles
Yes, it does. Center out, as always, to avoid trapping stresses.
Actual sequence depends on the gasket. Some are two torque steps,
some are a single torque step and then two 90 degree turns, with a 10
min settling time between. That was the case on the 603, anyway.
Use new bolts, too
So when I go to put it back together I do need to use new bolts? I
wondered about that.
Peter Frederick wrote:
Yes, it does. Center out, as always, to avoid trapping stresses.
Actual sequence depends on the gasket. Some are two torque steps,
some are a single torque step and then two 90
When I did the head on my SDL, there was a specific pattern given in the
manual. Same pattern for both tightening and loosening.
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D (74 kmi) getting donor engine-sold
That was the recommendation I got from the guy who made his living
working on MBs -- not cheap, but they tend to not hold very well the
second time. Far less hassle than another head RR, too.
I had no choice, anyway, one broke off at the rear where the head
gasket was blown into the bolt
I measured the head bolts and all of mine were on the short end of the
manual recommended range. 30,000mi+ later and the engine still runs
like a top.
Luther KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (281,xxx mi)
'85 Ford F250 6.9 diesel (x59,xxx mi) BioBeast
'82 300CD (183 kmi)
'82 300D (74 kmi)
new bolts are a little over $70 from Rusty.
Peter Frederick wrote:
That was the recommendation I got from the guy who made his living
working on MBs -- not cheap, but they tend to not hold very well the
second time. Far less hassle than another head RR, too.
I had no choice, anyway, one
We used new bolts on the '87 603 head - Iprobably still have the old ones if
you want to measure them all (yours and mine) and use the best of the bunch.
However, I'd just order a new set from Rusty with the gasket set.
On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 9:00 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.netwrote:
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