I have used Dexron in all my MB's up to year 1976in both automatic and
manual shift. (Up to year 1976 because I don't have anything beyond 1976),
Ken
- Original Message -
From: R A Bennell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005
Folks,
I have a question or two regarding the replacement of the stem seals on
my 87 300TD's engine. From emails to/from Dave M. I gather that this is
the problem causing my exhaust smoke when leaving from a stop with a
warmed up engine. My question is: what exactly is happening to cause
this
Exhaust guides invariably get more hammered over time, due to the heat
stresses they're subjected to during normal operation. I've RR'd VW
h2o-cooled heads with tons o' miles with intake guides still within
spec, but exhaust guides totally ovalled and exhaust seats beyond all
hope.
On 7/27/05,
It takes me about the same time to rig our M16 Scow, but the power boat
crowd does point and laugh sometimes in this neighborhood. She's down now
for new rigging - sheets and blocks, etc. (they're 35 years old).
On 7/27/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Richard,
Yes, I have
I was under the impression that valve stem seals don't cause much of the
smoking in Diesel engines - from several posts I've read on this list over
the years. There isn't the vacuum on the intake stroke to suck the oil into
the cylinder like there is with the vergaser engines.
Seems that
Now there's a boat.
We have a regatta with some Scows in October here in NC. (Lake Norman)
They run a two class regatta over there from time to time, Highlanders
and some form of Scow. The Scows that sail with us are single handed
for the most part, and a wild ride for sure. We Highlander
Hi all,
I have a 72 250 w114 M130 and I was trying to adjust the dwell. the closest I
got it was 51*. I tried everything from 0.06- 0.19 feeler gauges.
I'm guessing that the points are bad.
Can someone second that guess?
Thanks
George
Thanks, Chris...I figure we're all newbies on one thing or another. I'm a
book junkie anyway, so I'll probably get it just to have it GRIN
Royce
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Christopher McCann
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 5:07 PM
To:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/87362795.html --rodbender
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/87257574.html --$2400 E300
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/87249808.html --69 Casey car -
fintail
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/87206151.html --Volvo 740 diesel
If the dwell doesn't vary with gap, the points aren't making contact
properly. Dwell is actually closed time in degrees of rotation -- do
make sure you have the meter set for (or are reading) the six cylinder
scale -- else they read wrong.
New ones are about $8, foolish not to replace them.
Kevin:
You can also get blue smoke on acceleration from a bad turbo, along
with fairly sluggish performance.
A puff of blue smoke on takeoff is probably valve guides or seals, but
black is something else -- possibly late injection timing.
Peter
Books are right up there with instruments - can't have enough!
On 7/27/05, Royce Engler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks, Chris...I figure we're all newbies on one thing or another. I'm a
book junkie anyway, so I'll probably get it just to have it GRIN
Royce
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman,
Yeah I was reading the right scale. Thx for the tip.
how long should points last anyhow?
-- Original message --
If the dwell doesn't vary with gap, the points aren't making contact
properly. Dwell is actually closed time in degrees of rotation -- do
make sure you
I don't find anything directly relating to allowable 'play', Kevin,
but the manual does stipulate that the allowable tolerance for the id
of the exhaust guides is almost double that for the intakes. I do
remember that Dave experienced very similar symptoms after installing
a new head. Turned out
Standard direct points will last maybe 5000 miles. Points on
transistor switch coils will last maybe 15,000, not usually more.
Dirt or oil kill them, make sure the new ones are lubricated correctly
(a tiny amount of high melting point grease on the BACK side of the
rubbing block, not the
If you have the aluminium distributor it should be set to 30 degrees.
On this car with CD ignition? Just about forever..
Gentlemen/Ladies:
A fellow co-worker showed me a article of restoring the color of your
oxides paint to a better near showroom appearance Obtain 1200 grit
sandpaper pour plenty of water over the area to be sanded and
gentle to a medium force rub the surface the idea here is to
There are similar procedures using a clay block, rubbing it on the
paint, then polishing with the proper polish (a very fine grit
suspension in a liquid), then a good wax and buffing. I think Mothers
or Meguiars sells a kit to do these steps, or you can buy the products
separately. I have
George -
It doesn't take much wear to your rubbing block to start to throw off the
geometry of the points alignment. I've seen occasions where the gap is in
spec but the dwell isn't because the geometry is all wrong from wear of the
rubbing block. It's not always the contact surfaces that render
On Wed, 27 Jul 2005 15:32:00 -0400 Darrell W. Sigmon
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Make replacing bushings easy: heat them in a can of water, not boiling,
and they will 'drop' right in
Vaseline works, too.
Craig
I bought a vacuum pump for air conditioning work from a seller on eBay who
has a 100% positive feedback rating (with several sales). The auction
said, Brand new in the box. The pump I received was definitely NOT brand
new in the box.
The seller asked what I wanted so I said I wanted to return the
In a message dated 7/27/2005 7:07:51 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have a 72 250 w114 M130 and I was trying to adjust the dwell. the closest
I got it was 51*. I tried everything from 0.06- 0.19 feeler gauges.
I'm guessing that the points are bad.
Can
Peter,
past emails traded with Dave M. (aka Spudboy) have led me to believe
that it's either the guides or the seals. What I don't get is if it's a
seal (or guide) problem, how does that lead to the puff of blue smoke at
takeoff (and the generally burnt odor of the exhaust as well)?
Peter
Just a word of caution guys. If you have an older car with traditional
enamel this works well, but if you have a car with clear coat or the
newer one step integrated color with clear you can make a real mess by
wet sanding or aggressively buffing. Unless you have some experience
at this sort of
Joe,
a couple of things:
1) Looking at Dave's website and then looking at Rusty's site and
comparing, it looks to me like the shop installed OEM seals in Dave's
car, but used the ones for a M103 head rather than a OM603. Check it out
and let me know if you concur.
2) I have a source that will
Craig McCluskey wrote:
Any suggestions on what to do?
Apply for a refund from eBay now to preserve your rights.
(assuming eBay still has seller fraud insurance)
I had great success with Mothers detailing clay and the Mothers
anti-oxidizing wax after that. You can feel the clay removing things, the
body is much more smooth after this treatment so it seems to take the wax
better.
Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 83kmi
Don Teresa Merriman wrote:
To check your valve guides and/or seals find a very long hill and
drive/coast down under compression, creating a large vacuum draw,
The only way to draw vacuum on an OM 603 engine is to plug the
air intake or hook up a large shop vac to the exhaust.
Ok. What's CD ignition?
30* for aluminium distributor? Any quick dirty way to check if I do have an
alum distributor?
-- Original message --
On this car with CD ignition? Just about forever..---BeginMessage---
___
For used
Thanks Jim,
I'll check it out. There is only 120K on the vehicle but it could be premature
wear.
If it is failing, is there a rebuild kit for it?
Thanks
George
-- Original message --
In a message dated 7/27/2005 7:07:51 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL
Don M.,
I question whether this method will work in a diesel: To check your valve
guides and/or seals find a
very long hill and drive/coast down under compression, creating a large vacuum
draw, at the bottom of the hill apply fuel watch your rear view mirror and if
you get a noticeable puff
There should be no need to change spring pads unless the old ones have
disintegrated. Ride height is adjusted at the hydraulic control
valve. Our TE was very saggy when we got it. I put in new accumulators
and sway bar links and adjusted the ride height on the valve and it was
great after
I rebuild distributors here with a proper distributor testing machine. CD
ignition stands for capacitive discharge, an early electronic ignition device.
Put a magnet on the housing which should fall off. Pretty easy to see if it's
aluminum or not.
Dan
Its 60 days.
Craig McCluskey wrote:
I bought a vacuum pump for air conditioning work from a seller on eBay who
has a 100% positive feedback rating (with several sales). The auction
said, Brand new in the box. The pump I received was definitely NOT brand
new in the box.
The seller asked what I
I'm bidding on one now - but it's stated to be reconditioned. Your seller
wasn't
msmc1959http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedbackuserid=msmc1959iid=7532137694frm=284
by any chance was it?
On 7/28/05, Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I bought a vacuum pump for air
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don M.,
Is this procedure recommended for gas engines or specifically for
diesel? Someone correct me if I'm wrong - does the mechanical fuel
injection pump on an OM 617 motor stop all delivery of fuel when
'compression braking'? If it doesn't,
Meade, et al, I was browsing ebay UK yesterday and came across some
auctions touting towbar packages that purport to be the same as are
installed over there by the dealers. They listed several
manufacturers, Brink, Bosal, Westphalia; near as I could tell those
made for most MB applications are
How long do bearings last on these distributors?
Yeah I though about the magnet thing after I sent the email. There should be a
law against sending email that early ;)
-- Original message --
I rebuild distributors here with a proper distributor testing machine. CD
The fsm, iirc, is pretty specific about *not* using the valve to
adjust ride height, Loren. That path is said to be fraught with
peril. Valve arm is supposed to be adjusted to the neutral position
with a specified load.
joe
Here's a crazy idea.
You have her address. See if one of us is near by and knock on her door.
Craig's collection services. Breaking legs since 1938 ;)
-- Original message --
That should be a VERY last resort. If the seller has 100% positive, and
has been around for
Gah!! They have a hitch for the S-class back to the W126, but not the
W116... oh well. The W126 hitch was a little pricey at 241GBP ($421).
John
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005, Joe Knight wrote:
Meade, et al, I was browsing ebay UK yesterday and came across some
auctions touting towbar packages that
If you oil the felts on the main shaft through the oiler they last a long time.
The original bushings are usually steel but the replacements are some sort of
brass - possibly self lubricating.
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 08:32:58 -0500 OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I'm bidding on one now - but it's stated to be reconditioned. Your
seller wasn't
msmc1959http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedbackuserid=
msmc1959iid=7532137694frm=284 by any chance was it?
No. It was
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 13:50:24 + [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Here's a crazy idea.
You have her address. See if one of us is near by and knock on her door.
Craig's collection services. Breaking legs since 1938 ;)
That's a thought! I'll think I'll wait a little longer as Kaleb suggested.
OK, they are a new seller so they dont appear to have it down pat yet.
As I said before, try working it out with the seller. As a last resort
file complaints. I can tell you though i doubt that is a new vacuum
pump, or if it is supposed to be, its NOS. The new ones dont look
anything like
My friend and co-worker (1985 300Dt) asked me to post
this for him:
Recently I had my transmission throttle pressure cable
adjusted... it was shifting at the wrong points and
not going into 1st... Well, while lubing my throttle
linkage joints last night I somehow got this out of
adjustment and
tell your friend to sign up
Christopher McCann wrote:
My friend and co-worker (1985 300Dt) asked me to post
this for him:
Recently I had my transmission throttle pressure cable
adjusted... it was shifting at the wrong points and
not going into 1st... Well, while lubing my throttle
linkage
did you ever give anybody their 1st negative feedback? wow! the response to
that which i gave went way over the top-as if i'd commited a crime by noting
that the seller was not prompt and sent broken stuff...she paid for mediation
and shamed me for making such a comment...whew!
As an interesting aside, a while back I picked up hitch kit for my
Vanagon off of Ebay. I still hadn't mounted it, and the other day I
got curious and crawled under the rear of the TD--voila, it fit! The
distance between the frame rails is virtually identical on both the
Vanagon and S124. So
One of the problems on cars with CD ignition is that people never service the
distributor. Since the points will last much longer, the normal light oiling
during change out usually never gets done. The rubbing block needs a bit of
point grease, oil cup on the side of the housing needs a few
BTW if you need a cheap pump for AC work these work very well and are available
from harbour freight for 16$. The red ones are setup for r-12 bleu for r-134
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-AIR-CONDITIONER-VACUUM-PUMP-A-C-CHARGER-GAS-PUMP_W0QQitemZ7988519625QQcategoryZ46094QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I also am a book junkie. I am a technical writer with a degree in Professional
Writing (Yes, they have those).
You are absolutely correct in that folks have no appreciation of the work that
goes into writing a technical manual. I estimate that each Haynes manual costs
approximately $250,000.00
Those will not pull enough vacuum for any serious AC work. The point is
to boil the water out of the system, those are not up to the job.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
BTW if you need a cheap pump for AC work these work very well and are
available from harbour freight for 16$. The red ones are
I came across the UK Unimog Journal. It appears to be the black only color
separation of a color magazine, but contains the text. Some pretty
interesting articles for Moggers or Mogger wannabes.
Question? Is there a mog built that would deliver 80 to 100 hp with Diesel
and could have a
Hooked up to a decent compressor, mine pulls as much or more vacuum than my
mechanic's Yellow Jacket pump. Don't expect to get good results with a
dinky compressor, though.
J.B.
At 10:49 AM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
Those will not pull enough vacuum for any serious AC work. The point is
to
Hola amigos
Perhaps my suggestion only works on gas pots, however you could at least try
it!
On 7/28/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don M.,
I question whether this method will work in a diesel: To check your valve
guides and/or seals find a
very long hill and
I stand corrected. Thanks Joe
At 08:43 AM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
The fsm, iirc, is pretty specific about *not* using the valve to
adjust ride height, Loren. That path is said to be fraught with
peril. Valve arm is supposed to be adjusted to the neutral position
with a specified load.
joe
Loren,
Joe's already hit on this - adjusting ride height via control valve is a no-no,
specified method is to replace the spring pads.
Thanks for the info on 'how to remove rear springs', have you done this on a
123?
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR
Digest Lurker since 2001
Joe,
Great link - Thanks!! Took me awhile to figure out that 124t would be found
under E class, but I found it. I don't have an 'active contacts' at the moment
for a 124t, but it's good to know that I have a source for a hitch should I
need it.
Very respectfully,
/s/
LCDR Meade M. Dillon,
Since Diesel has no vacuum on intake manifold it will not work.
On diesels it may result in smoking on startup and if bad enough oil loss.
But my OM617 has 300k miles and never been replaced, of course I bet they
are bad.
Regards,
Trampas Stern
_
From: [EMAIL
Let me take a shot at explaining this one. When you take your foot off the
throttle you close the air intake into the engine. With very little air/oxygen
getting into the intake manifold, then the fuel that is there (if any) doesn't
burn as efficiently. With the air intake closed off it also
Taking your foot off the pedal does not close off the air supply on a
diesel since there is no throttle plate. It closes off the fuel supply.
The air intake is just a pipe direct to the intake valve. The older
governer style pumps this test may work on since they have a throttle
plate, but
On the off chance that someone here dabbles in fast cars, we have one
for sale:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4565244643
--
Never argue with a dragon, for you are crunchy and taste good with ketchup.
That would be perfect for my daily commute to/from work!
Mine pulled 29. I have a 60 gal compressor w/9 CFM pump.
-- Original message --
Those will not pull enough vacuum for any serious AC work. The point is
to boil the water out of the system, those are not up to the job.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
BTW if you need
rumor has it that [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Don M.,
I question whether this method will work in a diesel:
It won't.
To check your
valve guides and/or seals find a very long hill and drive/coast down
under compression, creating a large vacuum draw,
_This_ is the problem with this test.
Joe,
leave the originals alone is just what I did. My #17 head was from a
wrecker down in TN somewhere south of Nashville. I needed to get my car
back on the road so I guess I took the shortcut of not even looking at the
seals. It was Dave M that put me on to the consideration that they may be
my
Looks like my lawn mower deck attached to four wheels...
On 7/28/05, Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
That would be perfect for my daily commute to/from work!
___
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
For new parts see www.buymbparts.com
For repairs see
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2005 08:23:44 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] eBay issues
No. It was summer8777.
The auction is at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7521186804rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AITrd=1
I originally paid through PayPal,
Wish I had a better understanding of that as well. All I know is that
Spud had very nearly those same symptoms, smoke when leaving a stop w/
a warm engine, and he reported that new seals solved the problem on
his car. I'll cc this to him on the chance he'll be able to enlighten
us.
j
On
Combustion temp is fairly low at idle (just a tiny squirt of fuel), not enough
to burn the oil off. When you step on the pedal, you get much more fuel and
heat in the combustion chamber and the oil burns, but not completely since it
takes a few seconds for the chamber to get really hot. The
BTDT,
It does get folks attention though, and at times that is what it takes.
I have been on both sides, and if it ain't happening fast enough for
you, by all means use the system that is in place, or just walk away.
On Thursday, July 28, 2005, at 07:32 AM, JJJ wrote:
did you ever give
110, 107, 123, 126 they all work the same.
At 10:44 AM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
Loren,
Joe's already hit on this - adjusting ride height via control valve is a
no-no, specified method is to replace the spring pads.
Thanks for the info on 'how to remove rear springs', have you done this on
a
Meade, You may want to examine the rear subframe bushings if you haven't
replaced them before. Tired bushings will let the rear end sag.
Russ Maki
Ixonia, Wis.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Loren,
Joe's already hit on this - adjusting ride height via control valve is a no-no,
specified method
Early 1980's Kubota L305DT - 30HP, 4WD, FEL. :)
Not a Mercedes, but it sure is neat! It has fresh paint, new ag
tires, hydraulics look good, and a ROPS. It holds 8.8 gallons of
diesel, 6.1 quarts of coolant, 6.6 quarts of oil, and 31.7 quarts of
transmission/hydraulic fluid.
-brian
I sell a lot of stuff on eBay and so far, I've only received three negative
comments out of 1238 total feedback posts. Of all three, none were deserved.
One was in response to negative feedback to a seller who misrepresented
sold me pirated software and then refused to respond to my email for a
I'm sure somebody wants this to play around with, and at $800 for a running
car, it sounds fun! It's a 1985, 192K miles, Auto, new GP's, starter, and
good tires.
http://portland.craigslist.org/car/87509231.html
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1978 300CD 200K+ miles, Vinnie
Find Mog magazines here. There's a link to the archive at the bottom left.
http://www2.mercedes-benz.co.uk/content/unitedkingdom/mpc/mpc_unitedkingdom_website/en/home_mpc/unimog/home/unimog_world/unimog_magazine.html
or
http://tinyurl.com/amxu4
Tim
1982 300TD Moby
On 7/28/05, Loren Faeth
On Thu, Jul 28, 2005 at 12:25:55PM -0700, kevin kraly wrote:
I'm sure somebody wants this to play around with, and at $800 for a running
car, it sounds fun! It's a 1985, 192K miles, Auto, new GP's, starter, and
good tires.
http://portland.craigslist.org/car/87509231.html
Be careful, the
Joe is correct, those were my exact symptoms. Idle for 30 seconds when
warm, then rev it up and it blows blue smoke. On my car it was a
dislodged seal on an exhaust valve. The oil was leaking past the stem
and getting blown into the manifold, where it was burning somewhere in
the exhaust stream, I
I looked up the part number for OM603 valve seals and ordered them
(aftermarket) from Rusty wy back during the head replacement job.
When I replaced them due to the smoking, I ordered the same part
number from Rusty but this time specified OE dealer parts, and got the
other style that time. If
Kevin,
I wasn't planning to buy the car, just passing on the info to someone who
may want to tinker with something different. I think that I'm going to
stick with my ol' '78 300CD with the bulletproof 617.912 3.slow liter NA
diesel engine. I've gone back and forth and back again about
Not sure what your terrain is like there, but ROPS is critical on
anything but pool table flat landscape. I used to mow my 20 acres
with an old Ford 2N w/out ROPS and it was pucker factor +10 every time
the rear wheels dipped down a few degrees--very scary! I still need
to weld up a rollbar for
The areas where I have and will have land are very hilly!
It does have a ROPS but no seat belt.
Brian
On 7/28/05, Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Not sure what your terrain is like there, but ROPS is critical on
anything but pool table flat landscape. I used to mow my 20 acres
with an
Oh great, sounds like I'll be getting the wrong ones then.
Hursty or Rusty can one of you comment? Sku on my order was A8069-23971.
...Kevin
Dave M. said:
I looked up the part number for OM603 valve seals and ordered them
(aftermarket) from Rusty wy back during the head replacement job.
Kevin, if it has the 5.8(?) engine I understand they had some major
issues with the head or internal engine pieces...not sure which.
Nothing bad to report concerning the smaller V8.
On 7/28/05, Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hey all you Ford guys, anyone care to chime in on the
On Thu, Jul 28, 2005 at 04:15:23PM -0400, Kevin J. Slater wrote:
Hey all you Ford guys, anyone care to chime in on the reliability of the
98 Expedition? My brother up in MN is looking at a used one and I figured
some of you guys might have an opinion one way or t'other.
Ford guys?
About all
On Thu, Jul 28, 2005 at 06:42:10AM -0400, Kevin J. Slater wrote:
1) Looking at Dave's website and then looking at Rusty's site and
comparing, it looks to me like the shop installed OEM seals in Dave's
car, but used the ones for a M103 head rather than a OM603. Check it out
and let me know if
Now here's where I need a physics lesson. If indeed your engine has zero
vacuum, how does the cylinder fill with air and fuel? Let's use real numbers, a
617.95 engine has bor/stroke of 90.9/92.4 and fills through a relatively small
intake runner. This doesn't create a vacuum when the piston
They suck gas. Hope he has lots of money to put into it.
At 03:15 PM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
Hey all you Ford guys, anyone care to chime in on the reliability of the
98 Expedition? My brother up in MN is looking at a used one and I figured
some of you guys might have an opinion one way or
MB never sold a diesel with a vacuum gauge..gas models, yes.
On 7/28/05, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Now here's where I need a physics lesson. If indeed your engine has zero
vacuum, how does the cylinder fill with air and fuel? Let's use real
numbers, a 617.95 engine has
At least fairly currently, the p/n's are similar but not identical.
Seal kit for my 124.193 is 103 050 00 58; kit for a 103.983, as found
in the 124.030, is 103 050 01 58. Previous #'s for the 603.960 were
603 050 02 67, and before that 603 050 01 67.
joe
http://www.carriagehouse.mercedescenter.com/mbcenter/b/preowned/vehiclespecs2.jhtml?poVin=WDBCB35EXMA574603listIndex=1pageNum=1
This 1991 350SDL (135k, asking 12,900) is at a local MB dealership here- an
honest dealership that I deal with. I phoned about this one and it is a one
owner with
On Thu, 28 Jul 2005 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Now here's where I need a physics lesson. If indeed your engine has zero
vacuum, how does the cylinder fill with air and fuel? Let's use real numbers, a
617.95 engine has bor/stroke of 90.9/92.4 and fills through a relatively small
intake runner.
redghost wrote:
Go for the big guns and file a complaint with ebay, get SquareTrade
involved as well. The window is REALLY tight, so sooner is better.
When the folks start going after her money, she will pay attention.
Right.
I missed out on a $500 claim because:
1. I gave the lying crook
On Thu, Jul 28, 2005 at 07:34:12AM -0700, Zeitgeist wrote:
As an interesting aside, a while back I picked up hitch kit for my
Vanagon off of Ebay. I still hadn't mounted it, and the other day I
got curious and crawled under the rear of the TD--voila, it fit! The
distance between the frame
Kayoooh wrote:
Craig,
I just read that you paid with a check which is not a good thing to do at
all.
Well, he can use the canceled check as evidence of a federal mail fraud
violation,
and he can likely track down her bank account number from it.
Having said that and having looked at
Loren,
Thanks for that bit of confirmation. I may give that a try, if my new
accumulators arrive before Saturday and SWMBO lets me play in the garage this
weekend. I've already got the thicker pads, rebuild kit for the SLS control
valve and a new disc, extra Febi fluid. Would be nice to
You are confusing diesels with gas engines. The economy(vac) guage you
are talking about is only on gas models. Diesels do not have a lamba
system, that too would be gas engines.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Now here's where I need a physics lesson. If indeed your engine has zero
vacuum, how
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