I have the drivers seat out of an SDL and have bogged down. My problem was
that a new fuse would allow it to operate for a week or so, then blow another
fuse. It was during the fore and aft movement.
I keep taking more and more screws, nuts and bolts off, trying to get to a
point where I
Well you are going to have to remove the seat completely. First move
seat all the way back and remove front 2 bolts, then move all the way
forward for the back 2. Then you can get to the motors etc and see if
one of the wires is damaged or something.
Harry Watkins wrote:
I have the
OK, everything has been updated and everyone resubscribed. Everyone is
now set to non-digest by default. If you need digest version, simply
log into the list page with the password that was emailed to you with
your new welcome message. If you are still confused let me know. It is
very easy
I usually just get it sort of stuck in the car door a little just so the
cord will reach to move it back and forth. OR, you can just stick the
proper drill bit in the special port on the motor just for the purpose
of manually moving it back at forth. As for the pins, the older style
with no
Yea, and the list was only out of commission for about 10 minutes
Loren Faeth wrote:
Congrats! You have pulled off a maintenancesimilar to those which always
seemed to cause a major meltdown for ol Richarde
At 09:17 PM 12/25/2005, you wrote:
OK, everything has been updated and everyone
Seems like a VERY smooth transition to me. Congratulations
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology 1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://tinyurl.com/9s5g3
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Mon Dec 26 14:18:55 2005
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I suggest adding Wolfgang's page of Mercedes oil recomendations:
http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html
It's not absolutely complete, but he updates it pretty regularly as
things change.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of
My '93 has one good seat heater (the passenger side of course) and
one bad.
Symptoms are that the lights on the switch will flash very briefly
when the switch is pressed, and then remain off. Switch and relays
have been checked and are considered good (by my mechanic).
So it sounds like the
I would find the electrical connection to the seat and measure the
resistance. This will give a clue if the heating element is bad. The enxt
thing could be a bad wire/connection. Again, measure the resistance of the
wire loop.
On 12/26/05, Lee Levitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
My '93 has one
Never been to Phoenix...no grass in those pictures...do you literally live IN
the desert?
Chris
Bob Rentfro [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I saw that...it's like 5 minutes from
my house.I may go give it a
gander.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 146K
Litchfield Park, AZ
- Original Message -
Ja. This baby has been in the dessert heat all its life. Look at the wrinkle
finish on the door panels and window frame coverings.
On 12/26/05, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Never been to Phoenix...no grass in those pictures...do you literally live
IN the desert?
Chris
Bob
I have the drivers seat out of an SDL and have bogged down. My problem was
that a new fuse would allow it to operate for a week or so, then blow another
fuse. It was during the fore and aft movement.
I keep taking more and more screws, nuts and bolts off, trying to get to a
point where I can
I tried to go to the site below to change back to the digest version but
am unable to find the correct procedure there to do this. Is it possible
to do it manually or some other way? My email just gets too overloaded
unless I use the digest version. Also, from your list of MBz you own,
can you
Thanks. Will save these for when I start on that section of the site.
Hans Neureiter wrote:
Kaleb, would it not be nice to have a link to the map on the Striplin.netsite.
I bet Chuck will approve after a bit of arm twisting.
Below are some links to helpful sites I saved. You may want to
So it sounds like the problem is probably in the seat itself.
First, is this a reasonable conclusion?
Yes, given the harsh environment the seat heater lives in.
Second, what could be wrong (bad heating element in the seat?),
and what's the process of repairing?
Remove seat, remove
We has some corrupt files that would sometimes cause the list to stop
sending out email till it was restarted. Had to delete everything and
start over to see if that fixed it. The archive from up to that point
are offline right now but should be back up in about 10 days or so.
Marshall
Check your charging system, that is what they do when the charging
system is not charging like its supposed to. They do that to tell you
something is wrong. My 560 was doing that then a few days later I
figured out the alternator was not charging.
Lee Levitt wrote:
My '93 has one good seat
I keep taking more and more screws, nuts and bolts off, trying to get
to a point where I can see how things work and be able to inspect for
wear or damage.
I hope someone has a procedure, or steps to follow.
What you said _is_ my procedure for such things! Persevere.
-- Jim
goo idea
Marshall Booth wrote:
I suggest adding Wolfgang's page of Mercedes oil recomendations:
http://www.whnet.com/4x4/oil.html
It's not absolutely complete, but he updates it pretty regularly as
things change.
Marshall
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE,
Well too bad you didnt see this then:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=8024585038rd=1sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AITrd=1
My SDL was blowing fuses everytime you tried to move the backrest. Last
weekend after much complaining from the wife about the broken seat
springs
Click on the link at the bottom of each message or with the new
subscription message you got. Log in with the password that was
supplied in that message. If you use the link at the bottom of this
message the last box at the bottom asks for your email address. Enter
email, then click the
Also, from your list of MBz you own,
can you give me some evidences to differentiate a '75 vs a '76 240D. I
have one titled as a '76, although for some reasons, I believe it to
be a
'75. Thanks.
Frankenheap is in the same boat. The State thinks it is a '71, but I
have good reason to believe
Check your charging system, that is what they do when the charging
system is not charging like its supposed to.
I thought the lights flashed continuously when battery voltage
was low. (I've never seen this, but I thought that's what I read
in the TFM about seat and rear window heaters.)
--
Kaleb wrote:
OR, you can just stick the
proper drill bit in the special port on the motor just for the purpose of
manually moving it back at forth.
Tell me more, in my case right now, this would solve my problem. I need to
be able to move the driven gear rail about two inches in order to get a
the ones on my car flashed then turned off.
Jim Cathey wrote:
Check your charging system, that is what they do when the charging
system is not charging like its supposed to.
I thought the lights flashed continuously when battery voltage
was low. (I've never seen this, but I thought that's
On the opposite side of the motors from where the cable comes out is a
port that will accept a square bit. You can use that to turn the motors
manually.
Harry Watkins wrote:
Kaleb wrote:
OR, you can just stick the
proper drill bit in the special port on the motor just for the purpose of
Thanks Jim,
In the 124 the relays are under the rear seat.
With regard to the seat heating elements -- are they separate from
the seat covers? How difficult is it to remove the seat cover?
Thanks!
Lee
On Mon Dec 26 07:50:24 PST 2005, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
So it sounds like
That's the reason I use Gmail exclusively for the lists mail load. 2 gigs of
storage and free. I manage it by deleting stuff I think I never need and
keep the rest stached in Labels, same as folders.
I send you an invitation you can use if you like.
--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD,
That makes sense to me, but when I asked about this soon after I had
purchased the car several years ago I was told that the dealer who had
sold it (and who was no longer in business here at that time) had used
the system of selling the car titled according to the date of sale rather
than
- Original Message -
From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 26, 2005 7:59 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] a car for AZ bob?
Never been to Phoenix...no grass in those pictures...do you literally live
IN the desert?
All 115 240D (1976 was the last year) had the pull start glow knob and
the top mounted oil filter. In 1977 with the 123 240D they went to the
key start.
Robert M Doran wrote:
That makes sense to me, but when I asked about this soon after I had
purchased the car several years ago I was told
Yes we do...some of us do have small patches of grass. Most have the desert
landscape (rocks/gravel/granite)
Lots of cactus (it's still odd, even after 25 years, hanging Christmas
lights on a cactus), scrubby trees, rivers with no water, etc.
Bob Rentfro
;77 300D 146K
Litchfield Park, AZ
Yes. The last revision of the OM603 head, casting #22, has a modified
oil passage. The previous castings were mostly open to the head
gasket, and sometimes the gasket would blow out into the timing chain
cavity and #1 cylinder. The new casting moves the passage internal to
the head with a hole at
Oldest girl-child called me the other day and told me she didn't think she
could get all of her stuff in the Beetle to get it home, so I put the roof rack
on and drove over to Long Beach. I loaded the car (back seat full, trunk full,
TV on front seat and three big suitcases up on the rack) and,
I'd like to encourage our non-US located members and friends to
participate in the Frappr! map as well. It's fun to see where everyone
is, even though we won't likely be stopping by for help on a trip.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC
The FSM created the
the system of selling the car titled according to the date of sale
rather
than otherwise, regardless of how long it had been in his inventory.
This
seems strange to me that he could have legally done this but
In one way this even makes the most sense given the primary purpose
of the
Kaleb - we need a couple of seat end and chassis wiring harness end
connectors with some wire still attached to make a few extension cord
sets for working on these seats. We can mail them around as needed. If
you'll pull the connectors/wires, I'll solder them up into extension
cords.
--
OK Don,
That's what I do also - I find the Gmail easier to read than the
digest. All the messages with a common subject line are grouped
together in one thread.
On 12/26/05, Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
That's the reason I use Gmail exclusively for the lists mail load. 2 gigs of
storage and
OK. My '76 300D 617 had the bottom mounted oil filter and a key
operated glow/starting system. My '70 220D 615 had the pull start
system.
On 12/26/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
All 115 240D (1976 was the last year) had the pull start glow knob and
the top mounted oil filter.
All of the 617s had key operated glow/start. Th 616s didn't have key
start until the 123 models.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
Department of Pharmacology 1300 BST
Pittsburgh PA 15261 USA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
That worked, I now have the screw lined up to come out and got called to
lunch (I never miss lunch). To make a tool I hammered the end of a welding
rod (1109) square, finished with a file and used a drill motor to move the
rail.
The square (without measuring) seems to be about the size of a
I just pull the drive cable out of the motor and chuck it in my drill motor.
The lock plates are only at the gearbox side.
On 12/26/05, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Kaleb - we need a couple of seat end and chassis wiring harness end
connectors with some wire still attached to make a few
Hi Harry,
This guy has published a series of repair booklets for Mercedes. I bought
one for the W123 seats but much of the info relates to several models. The
books are very complete with photos of each step.
http://www.mercedessource.com/
HTH's --
Sincerely,
Larry T (78 240D w/286K)
A
Hi Bob,
What year is the Beetle? Along with the fuel filters look for vacuum
leaks - or, if it's a gas engined VW, make sure the timing hasn't changed -
Sincerely,
Larry T (78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff
lol. looking at the map, Deadhorse is further north than 99% of Norway,
Sweden, etc. I think the Pacific currents keep it from getting colder than it
would otherwise. I think the same latitude in Russia is MUCH colder.
Chris
Hans Neureiter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Never know. Someone
OK, next car I part out will do.
OK Don wrote:
Kaleb - we need a couple of seat end and chassis wiring harness end
connectors with some wire still attached to make a few extension cord
sets for working on these seats. We can mail them around as needed. If
you'll pull the connectors/wires, I'll
the 300D did have the key start, 75 and 76
OK Don wrote:
OK. My '76 300D 617 had the bottom mounted oil filter and a key
operated glow/starting system. My '70 220D 615 had the pull start
system.
On 12/26/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
All 115 240D (1976 was the last year)
yea, should be the same as the speedo drive I think.
Harry Watkins wrote:
That worked, I now have the screw lined up to come out and got called to
lunch (I never miss lunch). To make a tool I hammered the end of a welding
rod (1109) square, finished with a file and used a drill motor to move
I'm guessing we need a set each for the memory and non-memory seats -
is that all?
On 12/26/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK, next car I part out will do.
OK Don wrote:
Kaleb - we need a couple of seat end and chassis wiring harness end
connectors with some wire still
Great!
Rather nice weather we're having here -- 73F (23C) and sunny. Unusual
for late December in OK land.
On 12/26/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Got the exhaust hung back up today, installed the fan and filled the
cooling system. Fired it up and after a few minutes the smoke
Woohoo! That's gonna be one quick car although it won't be quite as quick
as a hotrodded 603 or 606 diesel. Is this one going to be the weekend
machine after driving diesels all week?
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
no MB diesel as of yet
OK, after the upgrade, has anyone else on digest noticed a change in
the digest format? The posts are no longer numbered. See below for an
example. I don't miss the lack of 'message ID' or 'content type', but
I'd sure like to get the 'message number' back! I only pick out topics
from the digest
You going to change the nameplate on the back?
On 12/26/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Got the exhaust hung back up today, installed the fan and filled the
cooling system. Fired it up and after a few minutes the smoke went away
and it starting running nice. Just need to
Larry wondered:
What year is the Beetle?
The Beetle is a 2001 TDI...it is running well. Got 46 mpg on the way back.
My troubles are with my MB...I get to go to work tonight. I'll see how it
does. I will change fuel filters tomorrow.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 146K
Litchfield Park, AZ
For those of you who wish to add to your collection of photographs, I
have two illustrating the air compressor
with clutch removed and the new clutch with parts. Just make an
additional note, there are two spacer washers
that go into the very back of the clutch piece. They are very easy to
Yes - it's a 124 chassis car. The chassis number is WDB1241331A285947.
The engine should be 60396012001977 and the tranny 72231702817510.
The color code is 355, and the interior is 272.
The order number is 0670452241 (I don't know what if anything you can
do with this).
This is the only year of
Truly awful cars, steer clear...only fools buy them.
On 12/26/05, Tom Scordato [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
WDBEB33D9HA285947
Above is the Vin.
Can anyone tell me about these cars? Got to start planning for when there
will be much, much fewer 123 chassis diesel in the next 10 to 15 years.
Jim Cathey wrote:
I had the hinge pin in my Falcon's pedal rust up, then the pedal
broke off the floor. (More rust.) It's still riding around in
the trunk, we just step on the rod. Have for years, not that
the car gets driven much.
Put a little roller on the end of the rod, like the early
Im not sure why it does or does not do that. I do know before some of
the lists numbered them and some didnt. Im not sure if its anything I
can control but I will do some digging.
Dave M. wrote:
OK, after the upgrade, has anyone else on digest noticed a change in
the digest format? The
yea, it was great. Wish I could have got a car stripped down while I
was at it.
OK Don wrote:
Great!
Rather nice weather we're having here -- 73F (23C) and sunny. Unusual
for late December in OK land.
On 12/26/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Got the exhaust hung back up
It will be for the wife to drive.
kevin kraly wrote:
Woohoo! That's gonna be one quick car although it won't be quite as quick
as a hotrodded 603 or 606 diesel. Is this one going to be the weekend
machine after driving diesels all week?
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
no MB diesel as of yet
I doubt it. Will be the fastest 380 on the planet.
LT Don wrote:
You going to change the nameplate on the back?
On 12/26/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Got the exhaust hung back up today, installed the fan and filled the
cooling system. Fired it up and after a few minutes
Peter Arnold wrote:
If you insist on being P/C, Buzz off here!
To the rest of us, A Very Merry CHRISTmas to all, Our family is so
hapy to live in a land that we can say that!
The irony about the war on Christmas rhetoric is that insisting that
people who celebrate the holidays celebrate
Well I took the 380SE with the euro 5.0 out for a spin today. Its like
going to warp speed. It has WAY more get up and go than a 560 does.
WOW. It was up to 80 before I knew what happened. Next is changing the
fluids then daily driver status.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
89 560SEL,
congratulations Kleb - btw, what's wrong with the factory engine in a
380SE?
On 12/26/05, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Well I took the 380SE with the euro 5.0 out for a spin today. Its like
going to warp speed. It has WAY more get up and go than a 560 does.
WOW. It was up to
Actually, the digest I just got had the message numbers like you were
talking about.
Dave M. wrote:
OK, after the upgrade, has anyone else on digest noticed a change in
the digest format? The posts are no longer numbered. See below for an
example. I don't miss the lack of 'message ID' or
Well lets see, factory engine, 155hp, euro 5.0 engine, 240hp. Will get
about the same mileage as the 380 engine. The later 3.8 is not really
that bad, just underpowered.
Sunil Hari wrote:
congratulations Kleb - btw, what's wrong with the factory engine in a
380SE?
On 12/26/05, Kaleb C.
Jim Cathey wrote:
Frankenheap is in the same boat. The State thinks it is a '71, but I
have good reason to believe that '72 is more appropriate, given that
I found lots of '72 date codes on electrical items in it.
I don't think that I'd want to try to convince the State that
they had the
oh yea, another factor that causes this car to be a rocketship off the
line is its geared for the underpowered 3.8 motor(the rear end) but has
the 5.0 euro in it. So its even faster off the line than a regular euro 5.0
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Well lets see, factory engine, 155hp, euro 5.0
The extension wire will run from the harness where the seat would have
plugged in to the harness, with the other end plugging into the seat
connector. You should be able to just use the postion switches to move
it as needed, and not invoke the memory function.
The reason to make different
71 matches
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