my '82 300D hasn't been titled in at least 10 years, and probably
been run in as long. I want to make an attempt to start it this
I did put the 27mm socket on the crank pully, and it feels normal. The
coolant shows no sign of contamination and the oil level is right
The 5.0 mustangs were that way as well.
But not so my 5.0 Camaro. It's got a tall fifth gear that will get
it to 143, past redline in fourth. But it will not get to redline in
fifth, of course. I raced my brother's 5.0 same-year Mustang, and
whupped him. Twice.
1. Is the 1985 really that much more desireable because it was the
Marginally. They're a little quicker, something to do with changing
the torque converter for a higher stall speed. More slip for a faster
launch. To me, any turbo'd D with a VDO ACC system is equally
How is the heap these days?
Dormant. (I _did_ fix the clock.) With no job, I don't really need
my winter beater commuter car (_yet_, one hopes).
Where's the best place to find switched and unswitched power?
The fuse box looks too tidy to disturb...
Probably irrelevant, but on a SDL there is an auxiliary power
panel under the driver's footrest. Your car may have something similar.
That said, adding a ring terminal
Actually there is another option too: local VW shop sells VW accessory
pan heaters that are paper thin and glued to the bottom of the pan
thorough cleaning, of course) with a special paste. Cost for this is
the same as the block heater.
The chicken wagon came with one of
why would you need brakes? If the tires hold air dont see a problem.
For a _tow_ start!? Yeah, you'd want brakes all right.
We own three 107's. (But of course we only want to own two!)
Hey there, we got another gasser last night, a Euro '72 450SL. Needs a
things done to it, but overall a good buy. I read that these engines
supposed to be pretty tough, and this one's only got 169k on it.
It was my
Which one do you want to be rid of?
The 450. See: http://cathey.dogear.com/JSLsale.html
I just drove it to town a couple of days ago on an errand.
Sure is a nice car, but we just have too many of 'em.
Love the lights, though.
damnit, gorgeous color, just 2 years too old :((
Hey, it'd be worth making yourself two years older (virtually) just
to avoid that nasty Chrysler ACC that a '78 would have.
We have 10 MB's, plus three parts hulks and one sold off, and not a one
of them has (or had) that system. Luck? I think
no, if yours didn't have the 'C' I might..I'm being really picky
the SL that I want. '78 and a stand out color.
Did I say mine was 76? No, I meant 78.
Now where did I put that Sharpie...
My transmission has a noticable leak at the front. I think its the pump
sealAnybody have recommendations ?
Well, it's not the worst job in the world to replace that seal.
You have to pull the tranny, but that's a weekend thing. You'd
do the front seal as well. I've done it on that 450 SL
My '82 300CD's brakes are funky. They are very spongy and you have to
them harder to get the same break action.
They need bleeding.
[vacuum] dropped to almost zero after about 15min. Is this normal?
Yes, I think so, depending on where you measured it. At the tap for
How difficult is it to install a voltage regulator?
Easy. Two small bolts on the back of the alternator.
I'll second that! Haven't seen a post from him in awhile. Any updates
your many projects Jim?
The only automotive (sort of) project is the big-a$$ generator, which is
going smoothly right now. http://cathey.dogear.com/genset.html I
to spin (but not fire) it up within the week.
I've had the sleeve bearings in the head start shrieking. Lubrication
has cured this.
That's some mighty good progress. Got any pictures?
Probably nothing new until the upcoming skyhook (Mog crane) session.
Did a 416 mog come with a 5.9L six cylinder, or did somebody
do a Cummins transplant?
The OM352 is a 5.9 (or is it really 5.7?) liter direct-injection diesel.
Noisy. It's what's in my Mog. About 100 HP.
There is a black wire that the points hooks to, that I'm not sure
hook up, the old one had a green wire that ran down to a transistor
near the radiator.
What about the extra set of points for the FI system?
Coils only get around 6V normally due to the ballast resistor.
But even still, don't be in a hurry to go anywhere. Those mogs are
Without the 6000# crane on mine, it feels right sprightly.
So. Has anyone installed one of these before and have any tips?
The only one I installed was done on the dashboard while removed.
Wasn't that hard, then, and it's stuck on but good as I used an
entire caulking tube of high-temperature RTV.
So the 6V is ok? I recently measured 13V, maybe that was when
Something less than 12V at the coil is OK, but I'm not sure what
the exact number should be. 6V or more for sure I'd think.
I'm not getting any spark when I turn over the motor.
And that's obviously bad.
So the 6V is ok? I recently measured 13V, maybe that was when
Something less than 12V at the coil is OK, but I'm not sure what
the exact number should be. 6V or more for sure I'd think.
I meant to say that I'd always thought that the normal low coil
voltage was a relic of the change from 6V
he was searching for an elusive gasoline leak. Hay fella, this is a
diesel list! Here's a pack of matches, now go search for the leaking
Hmm, diesel's not in the name, or in the charter that _I_ can see.
The list it replaced was diesel-only of course.
If I could find some wax Rope
Yeah, I know it'll be a lot of money - perhaps more than I paid for
the thing. Admittedly, I don't live up to the image of the list in
terms of my do-it-yourself capability and motivation. It's just not
one of my strong suits. I like to use cars, but don't like to work on
them, except for very
I was reminded that what may be ailing my engine (240d) is a blown
Best-case scenario, and not all that improbable, is that just a new
gasket will cure it. That's an easy in-car fix, and you can do it
yourself. The 'investment' is minimal, except for your labor, so
if it's not
My insurance company and the
boatyard's insurance are currently arguing over who's responsible.
Well, unless the boatyard did something that made your boat be at
more risk than it would be parked in your back yard, I'd think that
such acts of God would generally _not_ be their problem. But
I'm planning to strain the chunks out of ours, and burn it straight.
(But well heated, maybe cut with a little diesel.)Someday, in the
Frankenheap. I've got three or four boxes of the junk piled up from
Symptoms seem to indicate speedo cable. Do they only last 50k miles.
time I did the cable I had the odometer sent off to have serviced. Any
Cable _could_ have snapped, but shouldn't have. If it were routed wrong
the life could have been dramatically shortened. If the
For the curious, I added a couple of pictures of the engine
process to the website. It's up to date as of yesterday's activities.
FYI, the deep-fried buzzard came out excellent, as always. 45 minutes
dip to lip, about normal.
I'm thinking one might be useful - but have only ever done
Is it something you can learn by doing, or should one take a class?
I was in much the same place a while ago. I just dove in on my
first project, recognizing that it might take awhile to learn it.
So far, so
I'm curious how you plan to deal with the 3 phase issue. Are you going
to use just one phase of the generator?
Uncertain. You can wire it Zig-Zag, and get 50% of rated out of it as a
one-phase generator, which is still a big step up from the 5kW rope-pull
that I'm using now. Or I can rewire
Would it be easier to weld rusty exhaust pipes with MIG than with an
Oxy/acet. torch ?? Seems like it wouldn't burn as much.
Not really, it just spatters and doesn't weld until you do burn through
all the rust. I've watched near-artists with the oxy torch do exhaust
work, they make it look
Have there been any reports of successfully replacing the bearings in
the lever arm??
Our SDL ate its new tensioner arm's bearings in what I consider to be
short order (two years?), so I replaced the bearing in it. The original
is an odd size, a double-race job that is quite deep. I couldn't
During this time of year, heat into the passenger compartment is
needed. I found open windings on the auxiliary heat pump motor even
the voltage input was good at 12vdc. Can this pump be bypassed without
to the heater core?
Yes. These things die and are not all that
On thursday I gave thanks for the existence of 30 watt pencil-tip
soldering guns. I decided to tackle the loathsome ACC units in both
my 123 and 124. Pulled the PBU from both and proceeded to do the
touch-and-go on each circuit board. When it was over, the 123
performed flawlessly, while my
No, both the 124 and '86+ 126 ACC pushbutton (and cruise control amps)
units have solder joint problems too. I've never seen a 201 ACC
pushbutton unit do that, but my experience IS limited.
When (if!) I ever get done with my generator rebuild, I'll let you
know. The tranny transplant of the
For the record, I prefer the multiple listing.
The one car that passed me by that I'm still kicking myself
about was some kind of italian (?) convertible, I recall Alpina
on the side, but web searches have not yielded anything
that look like what I remember. It was about $1k at the U-Pull.
Beautiful lines, and wasn't in bad shape.
I think Alpina is pretty much BMW nomenclature (very nice), but
Alfetta ( of the Alfa Romeo ilk) is also quite nice. I tend to fall
head over heels for just about any Alfa that shakes its groove thang
in my general direction.
I think it was an Alfa. Sure was pretty.
After driving for at least 35 minutes at various speeds, the
gauge does not reach the 80C mark. The outside temp. is approx. F 30.
coming out of the vents is warm, not very warm. Could this indicate
thermostat is working properly?
Almost certainly. You have two
You will go to jail for murder if you do that. Can't shoot a guy
No matter WHAT he did!
Can if you can prove (!) that he's actually immediately on his way to
commit mayhem, such as shoot your family outside, or torch the building,
etc. Awfully hard to be sure that's what's going
Heck, I'm just pleased to pieces that you all want to fix my car, but
yet assisted me in my leisure by telling me the diameter of the lower
hose on my 240d.
It's about _so_ big (holding up my fingers)...
Sorry about that. Put in the for-real block heater. We'll help.
I have a wierd noise in the of the motor, it appears to be comming from
the belt tensioner ( not the chain tensioner).
Check that your main crank pulley is not coming loose, resulting in
an out-of-round drive that really exercises the tensioner to death.
We had that on our SDL.
The reason I ask is that about two months ago an odd noise (to me)
appearing at the front of my 2003 ML 400 CDI with approx. 49,000 miles.
The best I can describe it is that it sounds like a chirp which is
fraction of a second before the engine comes to a complete stop after
The clock in my 82 300SD finally quit. From initial inspection, it
appears that the resistor just above the crystal is cooked. Can
anyone advise how to proceed? Id the cooked resistor the problem or
just a symptom of some other problem? Does anyone have a schematic?
Are these things DYI
Sorry, Marshall, but based on my experience with the inline
coolant heater in my w116 SD I have to disagree. If the motor had
any faster, even in bitter cold snaps (-37 degC was the record I
when I started it in an unheated garage), it would have jumped to
amount of black color in it. Could this be just crap that I knocked
loose when I flushed the system (with MB citric powder) or is this a
sign of a head gasket on it's way out?
Head gasket! My vote anyway.
What's that carburettor stuff I see on that Mog Exchange. I have
lot of Unimogs of all sizes where I came from, 50's to the 70's, but
heard of a gasser.
Most all 404's, which were mostly various army trucks, were M180
Gas wasn't that popular by model designation, but
The dreaded foam rot. A lot of good speakers have been lost to it.
You may be SOL, but I'd appreciate hearing about a viable repair.
OMFG! Reserve not met at $100? I'd say 'or not' then.
I'd want those bad boys for $100, though. Just think of the
bragging rights a 107 woods runner would have. I'm assuming
My favorite benz film moments are Jack Nicholson driving a 600 in the
Witches of Eastwick and the 6.9 in Ronin.
Mine too! Criminal what they did to that 600, though. I wanted to
rescue it every time I saw it!
I also liked the moment in Suicide Kings (or was it Things To Do in
the aluminum wheel now has slots instead of holes around the lugs.
Your Ferd must be like my Dodge, and the rear wheels are hub-centered
(like our MB's) rather than located by the lugs only (as is the case
with my Dodge's front wheels). Had a lug-centered wheel been that
loose, you would have
Must admit the worst interior colour is those blood red ones
So I thought, until I got the Frankenheap. The red/black color scheme
has grown on me.
Today I drove the Frankenheap on errands. It snowed a lot, but
the car worked just fine for us. Hakka 1's all the way around.
We've taken the SL's off the insurance, and I'm switching over
to the heap.
whats this heater you are talking about?
There's an extra control panel in the cabin, one of the buttons
has a flame on it. By the exhaust manifold is some black boxery
that's probably the heater proper.
As I was the first (?) to notice this, if you part out the car
that of course gives me
November 29, 2005
Dang. One of the snow tires is leaking, it was down to 15 psi this
morning. Sigh, more crap to fix.
Two of the four glue joints on the hood star failed, so I took it off
and brought it in for more gluing. This time I made the wads of glue
bigger. We'll see if it
Jim - there are small battery powered bullet lights available at your
friendly NAPS that clip onto the visors and do a decent job of
light. My son uses them in his Miata and they look pretty OK.
Of course I have the parts that would be necessary to put in
a factory rear dome light,
Images of what, exactly? Between the lot of us, we might have quite a
ISO images. Say no more Squire, nudge nudge wink wink.
Images, what images? Is this just euphemistic double-speak for porn?
No, it's EDS for something else I been pore-n over. Think 114/115 ISO
My heater works fine for about the first 45 minutes of a trip and then
blows just barely luke warm to cold. Is this the problem of the
disintegrating tube from the dash to the thermostat unit ? Any
insight would be appreciated.
Quite likely. If it resumes heating on MAX the chances are
It does *not* resume heating on Max. The other strange thing is that
Well then it's not the foam hose. MAX bypasses all temperature control.
Pull the monovalve insert and examine it for tears. 5 minutes and a
screwdriver is all it takes. Don't lose any of the big washers, and
I walked across the street and borrowed a hot pack from the car
place. Slapped that on and the old Benz fired right up. I will need to
search eBay for a good deal one of those...
For probably less money you could carry a spare charged battery around
in your trunk. Not as handy, no, but
ok, so what are they trying to sell here?
MERCEDEZ-BEND 300HD, very xlnt cond in/out, runs immac, emerald
isle/palomino, very well maint'd, at, pwr st, snrf, ac, cc, pdl, pb,
pw, new whls, cd/stereo, tp of the line, ncst in twn, crrnt tgs, alwys
grgd. $3,500 obo. Portland, Or
I have seen one every now and then. What was that movie that had Danny
Devito in it, and everyone in the town had a Yugo, he was the sherrif I
_Drowning_Mona_. Hilarious. I wonder how they found enough intact
Yugos to film.
Go inside and come back later, you have blinkers again. Until you go
highway and repeat. No blinkers again.
The Frankenheap is playing a bit of this game. I have to waggle
the stalk manually sometimes to get blinking. I've found that if
I play with the hazard knob I can get it going
I am trying to figure out what my temp gauge should read. It seems to
be at about 100 when fully warmed up. Sometimes spiking to over 120
for a few minutes under heavy load. Thinking of replacing my
thermostat since it is probably original to the car.
Probably. But it _can_ be a bad
Isn't that problem the seal replacement? Is it hard to do? Do you
to tear into the whole thing, or do it from the outside?
It's easy to do from the outside. The out _front_ side. Getting access
to the front side is what costs $500, it's a bunch of labor. It's very
possible to DIY,
I can get the car on a lift do do the job. How difficult is it to get
bellhousing and converter bolts ?
You will need something like 3' (feet) of socket extension to do the
top bolts. Your wrench is near the tail shaft that way. That's
one trick. Converter bolts are easy enough
Our model requires you to recharge it
every so often or it goes dead (1 month of sitting and it is
Any lead-acid battery is like that. Though usually you can let them
rest a little longer than that. A solar battery tender for your trunk
troll, maybe on the back shelf, would
harder, and water started gushing out. Is this a sunroof drain, or
it just drain water that's already leaked into the trunk?
So does the weight of the connecting rod on the crankshaft not matter?
Or does it balance itself out across all cylinders if they weigh the
Speculation here, that it is of less importance in an I6 (or any I3N)
configuration, for the same reason that three-phase power is efficient
The Hirschmann stopped working on my '84 300D, thankfully in the full
upright position. I popped the cover off and found that the tiny
gilmer drive belt has broken, which explains why I could hear the
motor working, but nothing was happening. Does anyone know whether
these are easily obtained
Yesterday and today I've been trying to repair the stripped
brass drive gear in my Gilson snowblower. I used the torch
to build up brass on the teeth, then I cut and ground them
back to some semblance of usability. Looked crappy, but so
did the gear long before it stopped working permanently.
into a blob. I was wondering if the now-on-sale Harbor Freight
130A TIG set would work better for this kind of repair. Does
anybody have an opinion?
Hmm, I've been doing some surfing, and one problem on welding
brass with MIG is that the zinc can boil out, making a mess.
Some still recommend
First, is there any adjustment that can be made to eliminate this play?
If not, are these clutches repairable?
It's replaceable, I believe. I'm not sure if you need a special
puller to get the old one off, however, nor whether the job can
be done on the car. This assumes that the wobble is
The first attempt to build up new teeth on my snowblower's auger gear
failed after one half pass down my driveway. When I took it apart again
it didn't look as bad as I had feared, and I suspected that I merely
hadn't made the new teeth tall enough. So I hit it again with the
C2H2-O2 torch, and
I imagine you'd want a pretty clean cut. The bar is going to flex
constantly, so if you create a stress riser it's going to break again.
You also don't want to ruin the temper of this rather large spring,
so I'd also vote against the torch in this case. Abrasives are the
way to go. Harbor
What is the life cycle of such a clutch? Rubber tends to deteriorate
after 10 years or so, would it make sense just to
go for a new clutch?
No rubber in it, I think. Life would depend on cycles (actuations).
I haven't looked at a Geo Metro rack, but from what I've seen of other
racks, cutting one down would be tricky. You can't just hack off the
ends because they have the bushings that let the whole thing slide back
You'd cut out of the middle. Probably very near one end.
He's now tired of building up the sector teeth with brazing
rod and grinding to fit the pinion (he does it every couple
of years IIRC) but now the rackpinion upgrade is NLA.
I expect to end up like this too. But I have options, such
as swapping in the business end of a tiller to substitute
If so, then it's not a _hard_ fix - if you can find a good used one.
It took me about 2.5 hours to pull the good one out of a parts car,
and about 5-6 hours to do the full swap (old out, new in)
A 126? On a 107 the bar is up front, but on 126 it sure looks like
the engine has to come out.
I did, no regrets, now can't figure out how I survived in such stuff
45 yr. Went back once in the winter and about died, got off the plane
back home and it was 80F. Tell me again why I went there?
I like the progression of seasons, I even like the snow. What I
_don't_ like is
I can listen for a quiet hiss. I can come back out in an hour or
feel the thermostat housing on the engine. I can turn the ignition on
hour or two
You can also use the common (and cheap) multimeter to measure
the current to the plug, though that may require a jumper wire
So playing with lights in series, playing with electric meters at
home, or calculating things is just not as practical as a little $20
widget you plug in in series and it tells you.
My Maytag wattmeter does this for me, and was less than that at the
thrift store, but it's not all that little.
Hey, even if it _is_ junk doesn't mean it's bad either!
Amazing what you can do with junk sometimes.
I guess this isn't a good time to tell all y'all it was 70 degrees
I have been sitting out by the pool sipping an adult beverage while
for the first coat of Kilz to dry on the garage walls.
I guess this isn't a good time to tell _you_ that it was 10 degrees
and I and
Looking at a 190E for what I feel is a too cheap price of $600. The
seller says the vehicle will start and run but usually needs to be
coaxed into doing so. Said something like the injection pump was bad
and that the repair was more than the car is worth?
What should I know about
Is shoe goo or goop also the best bet for a 126 electric seat switch
For broken off narrow little posts, I'd think that drilling the centers
out for a support spike, something like a ribbed paneling nail, is the
best bet. Then use the glue.
well, you have a point there. How much snow did you all get. We got
maybe 1/2 inch so far but its slick as heck in some spots.
I think we got about a foot, and temps haven't been above freezing yet.
The main roads are all dry, but not so the hill up to our house or our
Still have mine. 24 channels. On a shelve in the garage. When I get
frustrated, I pick up the mike and holler Breaker 1-9
That would be 23, or 40. We use ours every time we caravan.
No problem whatsoever except when we try to get by with the
rubber duckie antennae inside the cars. A
And MY son's friend broke off his ONLY key in the door lock (1985
(son) obtained a replacement key from the dealer based on the VIN but
fits neither the front PS door (the broken key is still lodged in the
driver's sdie door lock) nor the ignition. Suggestions, anyone?
Some Mercedes (all of my 124/201s made after '84 on) can be
locked/unlocked from the trunk. Not sure about a 123, but worth a try.
124/201, and later 126/107 all have the single-line
electric pump system. But not the 123. (Nor the 114, 115 or 116
You may be
All cars with a single
line system can be unlocked from either front door or the trunk.
Untrue, as there is an early 126 system that still only operated
from the driver's door, yet was single-line. It's nasty, btw, that
pump is poorly-designed and fragile. I don't know if this same system
There are plenty of people who will sue for definition of character.
Umm, _defamation_? Of course, lawsuits _do_ also help define character,
as a side-effect. I doubt that's why they sue, though!
I tried unsuccessfully to lock/unlock all the doors from the passenger
side on my '84 300D, but just thought something was defective. Are
you saying that's normal?
That's normal. And if you've ever been inside the doors of one of these
cars (versus the later ones), _why_ will be instantly
I have a chunk of copper pipe of the proper diameter to replace the
straight section of my 300SD's upper radiator hose, but I haven't
gotten around to fooling with it. I intend to wrap a coil of copper
tubing around it and run the fuel through it.
I used to think of going that way, or of using
radios, so they tend to be poor quality designs. The audio output is
usually insufficient to be heard over road noise without holding the
radio to your ear.
The CB in the Unimog worked, even floored on the highway with me
wearing shooting muffs. It was mounted over my head, though.
I think the rating is related to fuel that has been formulated for
winter use, not the actual fuel temperature.
I don't know. Perhaps the 10% is due to better atomization at that
hotter temperature, resulting in a better burn. Gelling doesn't
happen anywhere near the mentioned 25-40 degC
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