Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-16 Thread clay via Mercedes
Probably not the solution you desire, but I found out you can use coil cleaning 
spray product to dislodge the built up snot on the condenser and it does 
increase the cooling effect.  I gave it a shot on my S430 and what was once 
blackened became silvery once more.  The warm weather had been taxing the 
cooling for both AC and engine, and now the gauge does not climb much beyond 
100 at idle.  Vent temps are cold.  Not ice, but cold

clay


On Jul 12, 2014, at 4:47 PM, Meade Dillon wrote:

 Today I've re-charged the AC in my '95 E300 Diesel in order to have some
 decent cooling for the rest of the season.  I added about 2 oz of PAG46
 compressor oil and about 12 oz of R-134, and the pressure gauges didn't
 quite show a full charge (21 Bar on the high side, a little of 2 bar on the
 low side, at about 25 deg C ambient).
 
 The vent temperature was really nice, it would pull down to 0 deg F.
 
 I had a lot of trouble with the serpentine belt slipping, tried cleaning
 the cheapo Gates belt (from Napa a while back), tried an old belt from my
 wagon (too big, also slipped), finally I mounted the brand new Conti belt I
 had in the correct size, which I'd been saving to use after I re-seal or
 replace the leaking power steering pump.  The pump is not leaking now, I've
 let the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the ASD get low.
 
 So finally I put on the new belt, I was very happy with the vent
 temperatures, but then the compressor started cutting out for no apparent
 reason.  The belt was not slipping that I could detect.
 
 Took a test drive, while on the road with no stop/start, the compressor
 seems to run fine and then cut out.  I suspect the evaporator temperature
 is getting too cold, so the PBU is shutting off the compressor.  If I shut
 off the car and restart, the compressor will engage again.
 
 Anyone have a suggestion?
 
 Thanks,
 Max
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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-14 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
Ok, after further investigation, I think the new serpentine belt is also
slipping.  This Conti belt just makes a lot less noise when it slips.  I
think I need a new belt tensioner spring.  May try cleaning off the new
belt and pulleys first.

Correction on the vent temperature, 40 deg F is probably closer to the
actual temperature.  I was using my non-contact thermometer, and pointing
it directly into the vent, and I think the cold air blowing right into the
sensor was throwing it off.

Max Dillon,
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-14 Thread Peter Frederick via Mercedes
I forget, is this a diesel or a gasser?  Gasser belt tensioners have  
to be replaced quite often.  Diesels, which have a vastly better  
tensioner system, only once or twice a decade will the spring break.   
Have had a few shocks go bad and knock, but the belt doesn't slip.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-13 Thread Meade Dillon
Thanks all!  I think Peter has given me a good place to start trouble
shooting.

Reading the HVAC manual about the evaporator temperature sensor, there is
this note:

On vehicles as of 09/87, the refrigerant compressor is switched off by the
control unit after 2 minutes of operation if there is a short circuit in
the temperature sensor evaporator (resistance value below 2.5 kOhm).  This
prevents continuous refrigerant compressor operation and subsequent
icing-up of the evaporator.  The refrigerant compressor is only switched on
again after the engine has been switched off and on again.

So I shall attempt to test the evap temp sensor and the expansion valve.

No dry ice here.  I do have a can of air, can turn that upside down and get
some pretty cold spray.  Hmmm...

-Max


On Sat, Jul 12, 2014 at 10:29 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
wrote:

 W124 has a thermistor just in behind the evaporator that senses the temp.
  Will cycle the compressor to prevent freeze-up.

 However, if the expansion valve is bad, it will seriously overcool, and
 then the computer will not turn the compressor back on until the evaporator
 thaws out, which takes a while with no airflow.

 The temperature of the return line to the compressor should be 35 to 38F,
 whatever pressure that is on an R134a system.

 You can test the expansion valve with some very cold ice (dry ice works
 best, but it's hard to find and dangerous.  Use a cube straight from the
 freezer).  With the system up and going, put the ice on the bellows of the
 expansion valve (the do-dad on top).  This should close the expansion valve
 and drop the pressure in the return line to near vaccum (which is why dry
 ice works better, it's way to cold -- ice won't go below 32F and you need
 it colder).  If it doesn't drop, the expansion valve is stuck open and it
 will seriously over-cool the evaporator.

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-13 Thread Peter Frederick
Evaporator temp sensor is above the accelerator pedal on the side of  
the heater box.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-13 Thread Jim Cathey

The vent temperature was really nice, it would pull down to 0 deg F.


Way too cold, no matter how nice you might like it to be there.
Things'll ice up.  I saw such temps once on the Ebola Fishtank,
when the filter screen at the expansion valve was gunked up.
(This is unlikely to be your particular problem, the system
in a 250C is unlike yours.)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-12 Thread Craig
On Sat, 12 Jul 2014 19:47:06 -0400 Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Anyone have a suggestion?

Wait for a hotter day?

Don't run the temperature dial so low?

Change the resistor that determines how cold things can get?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-12 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin
It should not be dropping down to 0, I would think more in the upper 30s would 
be what temp it should run at the vents

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 12, 2014, at 6:47 PM, Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Today I've re-charged the AC in my '95 E300 Diesel in order to have some
 decent cooling for the rest of the season.  I added about 2 oz of PAG46
 compressor oil and about 12 oz of R-134, and the pressure gauges didn't
 quite show a full charge (21 Bar on the high side, a little of 2 bar on the
 low side, at about 25 deg C ambient).
 
 The vent temperature was really nice, it would pull down to 0 deg F.
 
 I had a lot of trouble with the serpentine belt slipping, tried cleaning
 the cheapo Gates belt (from Napa a while back), tried an old belt from my
 wagon (too big, also slipped), finally I mounted the brand new Conti belt I
 had in the correct size, which I'd been saving to use after I re-seal or
 replace the leaking power steering pump.  The pump is not leaking now, I've
 let the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the ASD get low.
 
 So finally I put on the new belt, I was very happy with the vent
 temperatures, but then the compressor started cutting out for no apparent
 reason.  The belt was not slipping that I could detect.
 
 Took a test drive, while on the road with no stop/start, the compressor
 seems to run fine and then cut out.  I suspect the evaporator temperature
 is getting too cold, so the PBU is shutting off the compressor.  If I shut
 off the car and restart, the compressor will engage again.
 
 Anyone have a suggestion?
 
 Thanks,
 Max
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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-12 Thread Dan Penoff
Yeah, that's way too cold.  If the evaporator is freezing up, which it almost 
has to be to get duct outlet temps at 0F, the low temperature switch/sensor 
would be making the compressor cut out.

One trick I used to do on W126 cars was to remove the low temperature switch 
and recalibrate it to about 35F to get the lowest possible evaporator 
temperatures without freezing it up.  Stock from the factory they usually 
opened up around 40F.  That extra 5 degrees would make a difference in this 
climate.

Dan


On Jul 12, 2014, at 9:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 It should not be dropping down to 0, I would think more in the upper 30s 
 would be what temp it should run at the vents
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jul 12, 2014, at 6:47 PM, Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Today I've re-charged the AC in my '95 E300 Diesel in order to have some
 decent cooling for the rest of the season.  I added about 2 oz of PAG46
 compressor oil and about 12 oz of R-134, and the pressure gauges didn't
 quite show a full charge (21 Bar on the high side, a little of 2 bar on the
 low side, at about 25 deg C ambient).
 
 The vent temperature was really nice, it would pull down to 0 deg F.
 
 I had a lot of trouble with the serpentine belt slipping, tried cleaning
 the cheapo Gates belt (from Napa a while back), tried an old belt from my
 wagon (too big, also slipped), finally I mounted the brand new Conti belt I
 had in the correct size, which I'd been saving to use after I re-seal or
 replace the leaking power steering pump.  The pump is not leaking now, I've
 let the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the ASD get low.
 
 So finally I put on the new belt, I was very happy with the vent
 temperatures, but then the compressor started cutting out for no apparent
 reason.  The belt was not slipping that I could detect.
 
 Took a test drive, while on the road with no stop/start, the compressor
 seems to run fine and then cut out.  I suspect the evaporator temperature
 is getting too cold, so the PBU is shutting off the compressor.  If I shut
 off the car and restart, the compressor will engage again.
 
 Anyone have a suggestion?
 
 Thanks,
 Max
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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-12 Thread Dan Penoff
I believe it's the same setup on a W124 - a capillary tube that is inserted 
into the evaporator fins from outside the box, with a mechanical switch that 
opens and closes based on the temperature of the capillary bulb?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ef3nr80azddqyhs/MVC-016S.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x3wb7k4f82l9fe3/MVC-019S.jpg

This is what it looks like on a W123.

Dan


 
On Jul 12, 2014, at 9:14 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Yeah, that's way too cold.  If the evaporator is freezing up, which it almost 
 has to be to get duct outlet temps at 0F, the low temperature switch/sensor 
 would be making the compressor cut out.
 
 One trick I used to do on W126 cars was to remove the low temperature switch 
 and recalibrate it to about 35F to get the lowest possible evaporator 
 temperatures without freezing it up.  Stock from the factory they usually 
 opened up around 40F.  That extra 5 degrees would make a difference in this 
 climate.
 
 Dan
 
 
 On Jul 12, 2014, at 9:09 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
 
 It should not be dropping down to 0, I would think more in the upper 30s 
 would be what temp it should run at the vents
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jul 12, 2014, at 6:47 PM, Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Today I've re-charged the AC in my '95 E300 Diesel in order to have some
 decent cooling for the rest of the season.  I added about 2 oz of PAG46
 compressor oil and about 12 oz of R-134, and the pressure gauges didn't
 quite show a full charge (21 Bar on the high side, a little of 2 bar on the
 low side, at about 25 deg C ambient).
 
 The vent temperature was really nice, it would pull down to 0 deg F.
 
 I had a lot of trouble with the serpentine belt slipping, tried cleaning
 the cheapo Gates belt (from Napa a while back), tried an old belt from my
 wagon (too big, also slipped), finally I mounted the brand new Conti belt I
 had in the correct size, which I'd been saving to use after I re-seal or
 replace the leaking power steering pump.  The pump is not leaking now, I've
 let the hydraulic fluid reservoir for the ASD get low.
 
 So finally I put on the new belt, I was very happy with the vent
 temperatures, but then the compressor started cutting out for no apparent
 reason.  The belt was not slipping that I could detect.
 
 Took a test drive, while on the road with no stop/start, the compressor
 seems to run fine and then cut out.  I suspect the evaporator temperature
 is getting too cold, so the PBU is shutting off the compressor.  If I shut
 off the car and restart, the compressor will engage again.
 
 Anyone have a suggestion?
 
 Thanks,
 Max
 ___
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 All posts are the result of individual contributors and as such, those 
 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner 
 has no control over the content of the messages of each contributor.
 
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 individuals are responsible for the content of the post.  The list owner has 
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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2014-07-12 Thread Peter Frederick
W124 has a thermistor just in behind the evaporator that senses the  
temp.  Will cycle the compressor to prevent freeze-up.


However, if the expansion valve is bad, it will seriously overcool,  
and then the computer will not turn the compressor back on until the  
evaporator thaws out, which takes a while with no airflow.


The temperature of the return line to the compressor should be 35 to  
38F, whatever pressure that is on an R134a system.


You can test the expansion valve with some very cold ice (dry ice  
works best, but it's hard to find and dangerous.  Use a cube straight  
from the freezer).  With the system up and going, put the ice on the  
bellows of the expansion valve (the do-dad on top).  This should close  
the expansion valve and drop the pressure in the return line to near  
vaccum (which is why dry ice works better, it's way to cold -- ice  
won't go below 32F and you need it colder).  If it doesn't drop, the  
expansion valve is stuck open and it will seriously over-cool the  
evaporator.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2011-02-21 Thread Mitch Haley

Max Dillon wrote:



Anyone have any advice?  Do I simply need to be more patient about letting
the r134 bleed into the system?


If the can has frost on it, it won't be able to supply freon to a system that's 
programmed NOT to frost the evaporator side of the system. Either wait for the 
can to warm up, or stick it in a bucket of warm water.


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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2011-02-21 Thread Peter Frederick
You need some warm water to force the freon in -- partially immerse  
the can, it will boil and the gas will then go into the system.


You have a frozen evaporator from low freon, that's why the pressure  
is so low on the low side (expansion valve is completely closed).   
You may also have water freezing out at the expansion valve, blocking  
it.


More to the point, you need to find and fix the leak -- if the freon  
is slowly leaking out, air and water are leaking in.  Heat, water,  
oxygen, and R134a make hydrofluoric acid, which will very rapidly eat  
the compressor.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2011-02-21 Thread Max Dillon
Thanks Mitch, I can find some way to warm the can, but the hose is probably
too short for a bucket of warm water to work.

-Max
(with cheap gauge and cheap hose)

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Mitch Haley
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2011 7:09 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

Max Dillon wrote:

 
 Anyone have any advice?  Do I simply need to be more patient about letting
 the r134 bleed into the system?

If the can has frost on it, it won't be able to supply freon to a system
that's 
programmed NOT to frost the evaporator side of the system. Either wait for
the 
can to warm up, or stick it in a bucket of warm water.

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Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

2011-02-21 Thread Max Dillon
Thanks Peter.  I'm trying to add r134 with UV dye so that I can find any
leak present.  I hope no water is in the system.  Compressor seems to be
fine.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2011 7:09 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 AC woe

You need some warm water to force the freon in -- partially immerse  
the can, it will boil and the gas will then go into the system.

You have a frozen evaporator from low freon, that's why the pressure  
is so low on the low side (expansion valve is completely closed).   
You may also have water freezing out at the expansion valve, blocking  
it.

More to the point, you need to find and fix the leak -- if the freon  
is slowly leaking out, air and water are leaking in.  Heat, water,  
oxygen, and R134a make hydrofluoric acid, which will very rapidly eat  
the compressor.

Peter

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