Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Now its time to get a new one. Have fun.
And what was the line on your buddy that rebuilds them? Drop me an e-mail
off-list with his info and particulars. I'm weighing my various options -
rebuild, junkyard, or the aftermarket digital replacement jobby...
--
I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good one
laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though.
John Ervine wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Now its time to get a new one. Have fun.
And what was the line on your buddy that rebuilds them? Drop me an e-mail
off-list
I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good
one
laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though.
Doesn't George Murphy rebuild these? There is a warrantee on them,
too. Not cheap, of course. The state of the ACC servo has a very
noticeable effect on the value of the cars
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good one
laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though.
Well, I'd rather go with a properly rebuild unit ($$) or the digital replacement
($$$), versus a used good unit ($). Dirt cheap repairs only get you so
If you are going to go that route, rusty can get them(cheaper I do
believe) than murphy.
Jim Cathey wrote:
I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good
one
laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though.
Doesn't George Murphy rebuild these? There is a warrantee on
yea, a used one, such as mine, is going to run you close to $80 anyways.
John Ervine wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I will see if I can dig it up again. Seems like I might have a good one
laying around. Wont be dirt cheap though.
Well, I'd rather go with a properly rebuild unit ($$) or
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
yea, a used one, such as mine, is going to run you close to $80 anyways.
Which is a heckuva great price, I might add! But I've long since stopped being
penny-wise and pound-foolish when it comes to my cars. I like driving my cars,
and I like fixing things that
On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 20:47:57 -0500 John Ervine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
You know, like with the set of motor mounts that I tore up in 8,000
miles.
So how did you tear up a set of motor mounts in 8,000 miles?
Craig
Craig McCluskey wrote:
So how did you tear up a set of motor mounts in 8,000 miles?
By driving like a diesel-mad lunatic.
For some examples: I broke the rear end loose on the wagon at approximately
85mph with a slightly more abrupt than usual lane change. I'm probably 60-75%
through the
I put a new set of motor mounts in my 115 when I installed the
factory crate 617 engine, only to have them collapse immediately with
the engine wieght! I spent several weeks looking for what was hitting
the frame - wouldn't beleive it could be the new mounts. When I
relented and checked them, one
OK Don wrote:
I put a new set of motor mounts in my 115 when I installed the
factory crate 617 engine, only to have them collapse immediately with
the engine wieght! I spent several weeks looking for what was hitting
the frame - wouldn't beleive it could be the new mounts. When I
relented and
No - the rubber didn't sqeeze out and away like that - the center
metal part just pushed straight down.
On 12/28/05, John Ervine [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK Don wrote:
I put a new set of motor mounts in my 115 when I installed the
factory crate 617 engine, only to have them collapse
tore up motor mounts? Dont guess I have heard about that one.
John Ervine wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
yea, a used one, such as mine, is going to run you close to $80 anyways.
Which is a heckuva great price, I might add! But I've long since stopped being
penny-wise and pound-foolish
I often wonder how old these rubber part are when we buy them.
Rubber ages on the shelve just as much as in service.
I bought some gaiters (fork spring bellows) for my T100. They split putting
them on.
--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
On 12/28/05, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Ritchey
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 9:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Jim
The alternator is easy to test. Just pull the connector from the back of
the alternator and see if the current drain stops. By the way, an
internal
leak can
andrew strasfogel wrote:
I vote for a shorted electric radio antenna. Guess how I know!
I was thinking about that as well, but the antenna was replaced maybe 9 months
ago. Plus, the current drain was still present even with all fuses removed from
the fuse block.
--
John L. Ervine
1981
Alternator?
Trampas
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of John Ervine
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 8:34 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Apparently our '80 300TD is unhappy that I opted to take
On Tue, Dec 27, 2005 at 08:34:12PM -0500, John Ervine wrote:
What wasn't normal was a 320mA current draw with *all* fuses removed. That
tells me that something unfused is sucking my battery dry. Off the top of my
head, that leaves me with a possible internal short in the battery (only a
What wasn't normal was a 320mA current draw with *all* fuses removed.
That
tells me that something unfused is sucking my battery dry. Off the
top of my
head, that leaves me with a possible internal short in the battery
(only a few
months old, but Autozone Duralast brand and severely abused
Jim Cathey wrote:
The alternator will still charge with a bad diode, but it won't
do it as well as it should. However, an unremoved auxiliary fuse
for the wretched Chrysler ACC is an even more likely suspect.
I'd start there first, actually. These things are notorious
for freezing up and
On Tue, Dec 27, 2005 at 10:00:48PM -0500, John Ervine wrote:
Guess it could be time to consider replacing the servo with one of those
new-fangled digital models...
Given the recent price spike of servos, the price gap isn't all that large
anymore (unless you have a spare servo and send it to
Kevin wrote:
Given the recent price spike of servos, the price gap isn't all that large
anymore (unless you have a spare servo and send it to the guy kaleb posted).
The price doesn't bother me - it's the fact that it could be sold for
considerably less than a rebuilt servo, but isn't. Oh
: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Ervine
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 9:18 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD
Jim Cathey wrote:
I vote alternator as I don't know how you would be measuring 320mA
for an _internal_
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