Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job?

2022-04-24 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Craigslist rebuild, "I lost the receipts".
Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Apr 23, 2022 at 8:06 PM, Allan Streib via 
Mercedes wrote:   Spray can overhaul.


On Sat, Apr 23, 2022, at 8:02 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> Seems the power steering pump and hoses are covered in spray paint. 
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Apr 23, 2022, at 5:56 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Seems like a knowledgeable seller and this price is not unreasonable.
>> 
>>> On Sat, Apr 23, 2022, 6:00 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> What, no hood stack?
>>> 
>>> -D
>>> 
 On Apr 23, 2022, at 5:57 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/677814900140154/
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job?

2022-04-23 Thread Allan Streib via Mercedes
Spray can overhaul.


On Sat, Apr 23, 2022, at 8:02 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
> Seems the power steering pump and hoses are covered in spray paint. 
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Apr 23, 2022, at 5:56 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Seems like a knowledgeable seller and this price is not unreasonable.
>> 
>>> On Sat, Apr 23, 2022, 6:00 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> What, no hood stack?
>>> 
>>> -D
>>> 
 On Apr 23, 2022, at 5:57 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
 
 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/677814900140154/
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job?

2022-04-23 Thread Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
Seems the power steering pump and hoses are covered in spray paint. 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 23, 2022, at 5:56 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Seems like a knowledgeable seller and this price is not unreasonable.
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 23, 2022, 6:00 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>> 
>> What, no hood stack?
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>>> On Apr 23, 2022, at 5:57 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
>> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/677814900140154/
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job?

2022-04-23 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
Seems like a knowledgeable seller and this price is not unreasonable.

On Sat, Apr 23, 2022, 6:00 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> What, no hood stack?
>
> -D
>
> > On Apr 23, 2022, at 5:57 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/677814900140154/
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job?

2022-04-23 Thread dan penoff.com via Mercedes
What, no hood stack?

-D

> On Apr 23, 2022, at 5:57 PM, Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/677814900140154/
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-17 Thread G Mann via Mercedes
If you use a HVLP paint gun... also use an air pressure regulator... a good
one with a filter is best.

Air pressure AT THE GUN NOZZLE TIP is what you need to control. Most folks
try to run much to much pressure, which produces a "paint cloud" rather
than a soft fan.. I find 25 PSI at the gun is more than enough to produce a
fan spray with no "cloud effect" of over spray.. which is really your
expensive paint NOT going on the thing being painted, but being blown away.

Use a sheet of scrap cardboard as a test fender and play with your
adjustments on the spray gun, air pressure at the gun [control your
regulator] until you get a nice spray, at the lowest pressure possible,
without producing a "cloud of paint effect".

I use thinner to set up the gun, before using paint.. then fine tune the
adjustments with a couple passes on the test cardboard with paint.

HTH,

Grant...

On Sat, Sep 17, 2016 at 6:33 AM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> HVLP means High volume, Low Pressure, as opposed to the old type that use
> high pressure air to atomize the paint, and thus make smaller droplets to
> ride the air further.   The theory behind the HVLP guns is to use a larger
> droplet that does not carry as far in the air.  Try the HVLP gun with
> solvent to see how far the mist carries.  (solvent = paint thinner, etc)
>
> clay via Mercedes 
>> September 16, 2016 at 3:33 PM
>> I have a HVLP sprayer in a box on the shelf. I was afeared the thing
>> would put out clouds of mist and speckle all the cars on the street while I
>> tried to lay down paint. Best time of day for perfect conditions is from
>> 0600 to 0900, before the wind picks up. That coincides with all the people
>> getting into their cars and driving past my paint clouds. Once the paint is
>> on, I have to drive down the way a few feet to get out from the shade cast
>> by large trees across the street. Sun clears the trees around 0930 and
>> lasts until 1800 or so. I may whip out the sprayer to do the clear, as that
>> would give a nice broadcast over both colors with gooder speed laying it
>> down. It would require much less taping, as I would only need to cover the
>> windows.
>>
>> clay
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-17 Thread Curley McLain via Mercedes
HVLP means High volume, Low Pressure, as opposed to the old type that 
use high pressure air to atomize the paint, and thus make smaller 
droplets to ride the air further.   The theory behind the HVLP guns is 
to use a larger droplet that does not carry as far in the air.  Try the 
HVLP gun with solvent to see how far the mist carries.  (solvent = paint 
thinner, etc)



clay via Mercedes 
September 16, 2016 at 3:33 PM
I have a HVLP sprayer in a box on the shelf. I was afeared the thing 
would put out clouds of mist and speckle all the cars on the street 
while I tried to lay down paint. Best time of day for perfect 
conditions is from 0600 to 0900, before the wind picks up. That 
coincides with all the people getting into their cars and driving past 
my paint clouds. Once the paint is on, I have to drive down the way a 
few feet to get out from the shade cast by large trees across the 
street. Sun clears the trees around 0930 and lasts until 1800 or so. I 
may whip out the sprayer to do the clear, as that would give a nice 
broadcast over both colors with gooder speed laying it down. It would 
require much less taping, as I would only need to cover the windows.


clay







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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread clay via Mercedes
Sand through is a real pain.  I decided that I would begin with the transition 
lines on the body (where angles change) then sweep the flatter areas on both 
sides.  Once the whole thing has been sprayed, then I would do the lines once 
more to finish.  Since I kill a can on each shoot, I get the first of the paint 
out of the can, which I assume is more magical, then the last gasps at the end, 
which seems to reduce production of drips.

clay




> On Sep 16, 2016, at 10:14 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
> <mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 
> The thinned Rustoleum takes MANY coats. I learned this the hard way the 
> second time I sanded through it. In the end I think I ended up with 20 coats.
> -Curt
> 
>  From: Randy Bennell via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
> Cc: Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
> Sent: Friday, September 16, 2016 1:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job
> 
> On 15/09/2016 11:58 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
>> I am having a fine time learning how to paint a car with rattle cans.  As 
>> days flow by, I am taught all the errors I have executed.  I also get better 
>> at making fixes to these errors.  Shaving the drips, better sweeping the 
>> spray, gooder sanding with water as well as the soapy spray bottle.
>> 
>> I am getting closer to final product.  The green is a real PITA to deal 
>> with.  I am using el cheapo white rattle can as top coat.  Lowes $0.99 white 
>> gloss that really seems to not cover for shite, but when sanded it is really 
>> smooth.  I think I have ten cans of the stuff, so will do multiple coats and 
>> sand between.  One can did front or back, or maybe the whole top as one 
>> coat.  Right now I am doing 1000 grit wet sand on the white.  Should I step 
>> up to 1500 or 2000?  I am thinking maybe final coats would be done with 3000 
>> - 5000 step.
>> 
>> I have three coats of green down.  Last sand was 2000.  It takes forever to 
>> cure.  Should I try to step to 5000.  I much prefer one stage paint over 
>> clear.  Will this work or should I just go ahead and put a few coats of 
>> clear over both green and white?  What grit should I use between coats if I 
>> do clear coat?
>> 
>> Opinions are welcome, I do not need scripture.  If I am able to do one step, 
>> how long should I wait before trying to polish?  Do I begin with an 
>> aggressive compound?
>> 
>> 
>> clay
>> 
> 
> 
> I think you should have used thinned Rustoleum and foamy rollers instead.
> Should be less expensive and easier to get more paint on. Rattle can 
> paint tends to be pretty thin.
> 
> RB
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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread clay via Mercedes
I have a HVLP sprayer in a box on the shelf.  I was afeared the thing would put 
out clouds of mist and speckle all the cars on the street while I tried to lay 
down paint.   Best time of day for perfect conditions is from 0600 to 0900, 
before the wind picks up.  That coincides with all the people getting into 
their cars and driving past my paint clouds.  Once the paint is on, I have to 
drive down the way a few feet to get out from the shade cast by large trees 
across the street.  Sun clears the trees around 0930 and lasts until 1800 or 
so.  I may whip out the sprayer to do the clear, as that would give a nice 
broadcast over both colors with gooder speed laying it down.  It would require 
much less taping, as I would only need to cover the windows.

clay





> On Sep 16, 2016, at 10:04 AM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> On 15/09/2016 11:58 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
>> I am having a fine time learning how to paint a car with rattle cans.  As 
>> days flow by, I am taught all the errors I have executed.  I also get better 
>> at making fixes to these errors.  Shaving the drips, better sweeping the 
>> spray, gooder sanding with water as well as the soapy spray bottle.
>> 
>> I am getting closer to final product.  The green is a real PITA to deal 
>> with.  I am using el cheapo white rattle can as top coat.  Lowes $0.99 white 
>> gloss that really seems to not cover for shite, but when sanded it is really 
>> smooth.  I think I have ten cans of the stuff, so will do multiple coats and 
>> sand between.  One can did front or back, or maybe the whole top as one 
>> coat.  Right now I am doing 1000 grit wet sand on the white.  Should I step 
>> up to 1500 or 2000?  I am thinking maybe final coats would be done with 3000 
>> - 5000 step.
>> 
>> I have three coats of green down.  Last sand was 2000.  It takes forever to 
>> cure.  Should I try to step to 5000.  I much prefer one stage paint over 
>> clear.  Will this work or should I just go ahead and put a few coats of 
>> clear over both green and white?  What grit should I use between coats if I 
>> do clear coat?
>> 
>> Opinions are welcome, I do not need scripture.   If I am able to do one 
>> step, how long should I wait before trying to polish?  Do I begin with an 
>> aggressive compound?
>> 
>> 
>> clay
>> 
> 
> 
> I think you should have used thinned Rustoleum and foamy rollers instead.
> Should be less expensive and easier to get more paint on. Rattle can paint 
> tends to be pretty thin.
> 
> RB
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread clay via Mercedes
I think Curt meant that he uses 2000, but one should instead begin with 800, 
then work to 1000/1500 before going to a final of 2000


clay

> On Sep 16, 2016, at 8:27 AM, Craig via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> On Fri, 16 Sep 2016 12:49:18 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
>  wrote:
> 
>> Now shoot the clear, let that harden a week or two (preferably two),
>> cut with 2000 grit although I've ready you should start with 800 and
>> work up through 1000 and 1500.
> 
> This sentence is confusing. What did you mean to say?
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread clay via Mercedes
No burnt smell, color is like new, tach shows standard RPM in the 2000-2500 
range at speed.  To have Delta V, the needle pops past 3000 and tops out at 
4500 to climb a hill or speed up.

clay

> On Sep 16, 2016, at 4:31 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> No ideas on the paint, but I did want to address your transmission concerns.
> 
> Just because you're not "rolling coal" when you stomp the pedal at speed 
> doesn't mean the tranny is slipping. You could just be underfueling or the 
> timing could be off a little.
> 
> That being said, when you do this you should watch the RPMs closely to see 
> what they do relative to the forward motion of the car. That would be the 
> tell as to tranny issues. Also, if you're slipping the fluid would probably 
> have some odor like it was burned. Slipping in the clutches means friction 
> and heat, which equals burning.
> 
> Dan
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On Sep 16, 2016, at 12:58 AM, clay via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I am having a fine time learning how to paint a car with rattle cans.  As 
>> days flow by, I am taught all the errors I have executed.  I also get better 
>> at making fixes to these errors.  Shaving the drips, better sweeping the 
>> spray, gooder sanding with water as well as the soapy spray bottle.
>> 
>> I am getting closer to final product.  The green is a real PITA to deal 
>> with.  I am using el cheapo white rattle can as top coat.  Lowes $0.99 white 
>> gloss that really seems to not cover for shite, but when sanded it is really 
>> smooth.  I think I have ten cans of the stuff, so will do multiple coats and 
>> sand between.  One can did front or back, or maybe the whole top as one 
>> coat.  Right now I am doing 1000 grit wet sand on the white.  Should I step 
>> up to 1500 or 2000?  I am thinking maybe final coats would be done with 3000 
>> - 5000 step.
>> 
>> I have three coats of green down.  Last sand was 2000.  It takes forever to 
>> cure.  Should I try to step to 5000.  I much prefer one stage paint over 
>> clear.  Will this work or should I just go ahead and put a few coats of 
>> clear over both green and white?  What grit should I use between coats if I 
>> do clear coat?  
>> 
>> Opinions are welcome, I do not need scripture.   If I am able to do one 
>> step, how long should I wait before trying to polish?  Do I begin with an 
>> aggressive compound?
>> 
>> 
>> clay 
>> 
>> 2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
>> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
>> 1986 SDL - Polei
>> 
>> retired models-
>> 1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
>> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
>> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
>> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
The thinned Rustoleum takes MANY coats. I learned this the hard way the second 
time I sanded through it. In the end I think I ended up with 20 coats.
-Curt

  From: Randy Bennell via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Randy Bennell <rbenn...@bennell.ca>
 Sent: Friday, September 16, 2016 1:04 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job
   
On 15/09/2016 11:58 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:
> I am having a fine time learning how to paint a car with rattle cans.  As 
> days flow by, I am taught all the errors I have executed.  I also get better 
> at making fixes to these errors.  Shaving the drips, better sweeping the 
> spray, gooder sanding with water as well as the soapy spray bottle.
>
> I am getting closer to final product.  The green is a real PITA to deal with. 
>  I am using el cheapo white rattle can as top coat.  Lowes $0.99 white gloss 
> that really seems to not cover for shite, but when sanded it is really 
> smooth.  I think I have ten cans of the stuff, so will do multiple coats and 
> sand between.  One can did front or back, or maybe the whole top as one coat. 
>  Right now I am doing 1000 grit wet sand on the white.  Should I step up to 
> 1500 or 2000?  I am thinking maybe final coats would be done with 3000 - 5000 
> step.
>
> I have three coats of green down.  Last sand was 2000.  It takes forever to 
> cure.  Should I try to step to 5000.  I much prefer one stage paint over 
> clear.  Will this work or should I just go ahead and put a few coats of clear 
> over both green and white?  What grit should I use between coats if I do 
> clear coat?
>
> Opinions are welcome, I do not need scripture.  If I am able to do one step, 
> how long should I wait before trying to polish?  Do I begin with an 
> aggressive compound?
>
>
> clay
>


I think you should have used thinned Rustoleum and foamy rollers instead.
Should be less expensive and easier to get more paint on. Rattle can 
paint tends to be pretty thin.

RB

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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 15/09/2016 11:58 PM, clay via Mercedes wrote:

I am having a fine time learning how to paint a car with rattle cans.  As days 
flow by, I am taught all the errors I have executed.  I also get better at 
making fixes to these errors.  Shaving the drips, better sweeping the spray, 
gooder sanding with water as well as the soapy spray bottle.

I am getting closer to final product.  The green is a real PITA to deal with.  
I am using el cheapo white rattle can as top coat.  Lowes $0.99 white gloss 
that really seems to not cover for shite, but when sanded it is really smooth.  
I think I have ten cans of the stuff, so will do multiple coats and sand 
between.  One can did front or back, or maybe the whole top as one coat.  Right 
now I am doing 1000 grit wet sand on the white.  Should I step up to 1500 or 
2000?  I am thinking maybe final coats would be done with 3000 - 5000 step.

I have three coats of green down.  Last sand was 2000.  It takes forever to 
cure.  Should I try to step to 5000.  I much prefer one stage paint over clear. 
 Will this work or should I just go ahead and put a few coats of clear over 
both green and white?  What grit should I use between coats if I do clear coat?

Opinions are welcome, I do not need scripture.   If I am able to do one step, 
how long should I wait before trying to polish?  Do I begin with an aggressive 
compound?


clay




I think you should have used thinned Rustoleum and foamy rollers instead.
Should be less expensive and easier to get more paint on. Rattle can 
paint tends to be pretty thin.


RB

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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Fri, 16 Sep 2016 09:08:55 -0700 Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes
 wrote:

> I see is as "I've read".

That is indeed what Curt said he meant.

Thanks,


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Fri, 16 Sep 2016 16:02:17 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Ready should be "read" so I've read that you should use multiple grits
> starting with 800 working up to 2000. -Curt

Thank you, that makes more sense.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread Greg Fiorentino via Mercedes
I see is as "I've read".

Greg

-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Craig via
Mercedes
Sent: Friday, September 16, 2016 8:28 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Cc: Craig
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

On Fri, 16 Sep 2016 12:49:18 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Now shoot the clear, let that harden a week or two (preferably two),
> cut with 2000 grit although I've ready you should start with 800 and
> work up through 1000 and 1500.

This sentence is confusing. What did you mean to say?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Ready should be "read" so I've read that you should use multiple grits starting 
with 800 working up to 2000.
-Curt

  From: Craig via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
 To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com> 
Cc: Craig <diese...@pisquared.net>
 Sent: Friday, September 16, 2016 11:27 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job
   
On Fri, 16 Sep 2016 12:49:18 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
<mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Now shoot the clear, let that harden a week or two (preferably two),
> cut with 2000 grit although I've ready you should start with 800 and
> work up through 1000 and 1500.

This sentence is confusing. What did you mean to say?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread Craig via Mercedes
On Fri, 16 Sep 2016 12:49:18 + (UTC) Curt Raymond via Mercedes
 wrote:

> Now shoot the clear, let that harden a week or two (preferably two),
> cut with 2000 grit although I've ready you should start with 800 and
> work up through 1000 and 1500.

This sentence is confusing. What did you mean to say?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I've done a fair amount of rattle can work on Coleman lanterns and I like to 
think I've gotten pretty good at it...Most of what I've done is Rustoleum but 
its all pretty much the same. Lately I've been working on the fender for the 
Golf which is nearly done, I just need to cut and polish the clearcoat which 
orange peeled horribly.
So I shoot color, thin-ish coats with 10 minutes in between during which the 
solvents flash off. I do about 4 coats and then wet sand with 600 grit. If it 
looks like it needs it, I'll do another round of color. I let that harden a few 
days then cut with 2000 grit which levels the paint. It looks horrible and dull 
at that point but don't despair.
Now shoot the clear, let that harden a week or two (preferably two), cut with 
2000 grit although I've ready you should start with 800 and work up through 
1000 and 1500. I suspect for the home gamer thats excessive. Polish with 
polishing compound and follow up with a good quality wax. Remember its 
POLISHING compound, not rubbing compound...
On lanterns I did clear over single stage which worked fine. The car fender is 
the first time I've ever done multi-stage with clear. It looks pretty good 
right now but really needs the cut and polish.
-Curt 

  From: clay via Mercedes 
 To: Mercedes Discussion List  
Cc: clay 
 Sent: Friday, September 16, 2016 12:58 AM
 Subject: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job
   
I am having a fine time learning how to paint a car with rattle cans.  As days 
flow by, I am taught all the errors I have executed.  I also get better at 
making fixes to these errors.  Shaving the drips, better sweeping the spray, 
gooder sanding with water as well as the soapy spray bottle.

I am getting closer to final product.  The green is a real PITA to deal with.  
I am using el cheapo white rattle can as top coat.  Lowes $0.99 white gloss 
that really seems to not cover for shite, but when sanded it is really smooth.  
I think I have ten cans of the stuff, so will do multiple coats and sand 
between.  One can did front or back, or maybe the whole top as one coat.  Right 
now I am doing 1000 grit wet sand on the white.  Should I step up to 1500 or 
2000?  I am thinking maybe final coats would be done with 3000 - 5000 step.

I have three coats of green down.  Last sand was 2000.  It takes forever to 
cure.  Should I try to step to 5000.  I much prefer one stage paint over clear. 
 Will this work or should I just go ahead and put a few coats of clear over 
both green and white?  What grit should I use between coats if I do clear coat? 
 

Opinions are welcome, I do not need scripture.  If I am able to do one step, 
how long should I wait before trying to polish?  Do I begin with an aggressive 
compound?


clay 

2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei

retired models-
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








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Re: [MBZ] Rattle can paint job

2016-09-16 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
No ideas on the paint, but I did want to address your transmission concerns.

Just because you're not "rolling coal" when you stomp the pedal at speed 
doesn't mean the tranny is slipping. You could just be underfueling or the 
timing could be off a little.

That being said, when you do this you should watch the RPMs closely to see what 
they do relative to the forward motion of the car. That would be the tell as to 
tranny issues. Also, if you're slipping the fluid would probably have some odor 
like it was burned. Slipping in the clutches means friction and heat, which 
equals burning.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 16, 2016, at 12:58 AM, clay via Mercedes  wrote:
> 
> I am having a fine time learning how to paint a car with rattle cans.  As 
> days flow by, I am taught all the errors I have executed.  I also get better 
> at making fixes to these errors.  Shaving the drips, better sweeping the 
> spray, gooder sanding with water as well as the soapy spray bottle.
> 
> I am getting closer to final product.  The green is a real PITA to deal with. 
>  I am using el cheapo white rattle can as top coat.  Lowes $0.99 white gloss 
> that really seems to not cover for shite, but when sanded it is really 
> smooth.  I think I have ten cans of the stuff, so will do multiple coats and 
> sand between.  One can did front or back, or maybe the whole top as one coat. 
>  Right now I am doing 1000 grit wet sand on the white.  Should I step up to 
> 1500 or 2000?  I am thinking maybe final coats would be done with 3000 - 5000 
> step.
> 
> I have three coats of green down.  Last sand was 2000.  It takes forever to 
> cure.  Should I try to step to 5000.  I much prefer one stage paint over 
> clear.  Will this work or should I just go ahead and put a few coats of clear 
> over both green and white?  What grit should I use between coats if I do 
> clear coat?  
> 
> Opinions are welcome, I do not need scripture.   If I am able to do one step, 
> how long should I wait before trying to polish?  Do I begin with an 
> aggressive compound?
> 
> 
> clay 
> 
> 2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored chap
> 1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
> 1986 SDL - Polei
> 
> retired models-
> 1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
> 1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
> 1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
> POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> 
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> 
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