You've got a flopper too? I fight back the urge to tell the wife to be less
gibbon-like with most of the controls in the car (especially to avoid
cranking around the temperature dials every time she feels hot or cold - I'd
rather she utilize the fresh air lever, or shut down or open up her vents
Pulled the driver's seat (what a PITA!) to find that yes, indeed,
there is a broken spring. Fortunately it hadn't poked too far into
the pad yet. The break was out in the middle where access would be
easy once the motorized frame was removed. While I do have extra
springs from the boneyard
Jim Cathey wrote:
Pulled the driver's seat (what a PITA!) to find that yes, indeed,
there is a broken spring. Fortunately it hadn't poked too far into
the pad yet. The break was out in the middle where access would be
easy once the motorized frame was removed. While I do have extra
springs
I repaired my SD driver seat nearly a year ago using copper clad steel wire
wrapped into a tight coil and slid as a support sleeve around the break and
J.B. Weld. Still together today and the only issue is a missing bolt in the
seat.
Luther
~
~I have dozens of reports of repaired springs.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
I repaired my SD driver seat nearly a year ago using copper clad steel wire
wrapped into a tight coil and slid as a support sleeve around the break and
J.B. Weld. Still together today and the only issue is a missing bolt in the
seat.
I'll mention that in the future.
I repaired my SD driver seat nearly a year ago using copper clad steel
wire wrapped into a tight coil and slid as a support sleeve around the
break and J.B. Weld. Still together today and the only issue is a
missing bolt
This is substantially what I have just done, except that there was no
I don't know if it makes that much difference, but J.B. doesn't heat the spring
like a MIG will.
~
~This is substantially what I have just done, except that there was no
~JB about the welding. I would never expect the repair to hold if the
~spring was merely welded back together. The key
