Re: [MBZ] Testing glow plugs

2015-05-03 Thread fmiser via Mercedes
 Max wrote:
 
 '95 E300: all measured between 0.7 and 0.9 ohms, at the six-pin
 connector for the glow plug relay.

What I've found to be the best way to test glow plugs is to measure
the current draw.

 I think I will build a current tester next, using a cheap
 dash-mount amp meter from FLAPS.

Heh.  Seems you've heard me expound on that method before. *grin*

That should prove your plugs are good.  If you are still getting
errors, then maybe the error checker is at fault.

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Re: [MBZ] Testing glow plugs

2015-05-03 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

Shell out for a new (or used) GP Relay.




95 E300: all measured between 0.7 and 0.9 ohms, at the six-pin 
connector for the glow plug relay.


However, the pre-glow light is telling me there is a problem. 
Roughly half the time it won't light during the pre-glow cycle and 
then comes on immediately after engine start, or it does light as 
normal but then after a minute of operation it will come one for a 
bit.


Engine start is smooth, so the majority if not all of the plugs are working.

I think I will build a current tester next, using a cheap dash-mount 
amp meter from FLAPS.

--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300


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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-03 Thread Rich Thomas
I was thinking that was the total amperage draw on 5 GPs, in which case 
the resistance would be 5x higher on each plug.


--R





On 12/2/13 6:50 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Rich Thomas wrote:
They should show just a few ohms of resistance, like 3 or 4 if
I recall.  Zero not good, infinite not good.

Mitch Haley wrote:

Don't they draw 20-30 amps when cold?
That would imply about half an ohm.

Rich Thomas wrote:

Divide by 5

Divide what by 5?  The 0.5 ohm each?  To figure the total
resistance of all the plugs (presuming parallel glowplugs) is
1/((1/0.6)*5)

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-03 Thread Peter Frederick
Room temperature resistance should be 0.7 to 0.8 ohm.  It will go up  
quite a bit as they heat, of course.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-03 Thread Jim Cathey
I was thinking that was the total amperage draw on 5 GPs, in which 
case the resistance would be 5x higher on each plug.


No, the initial amperage is quite high.  If the fuse were instant
reacting it'd probably blow every time.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-02 Thread Larry T

Hi Gang,
I tried to test the GP using my 12v battery with the GP removed 
since i had already pulled it - it didn't even get warm -- i then tested 
it as many ways that i could think of using my DMM - zero continuity, (I 
tested between the threads and the probe as well as the threaded 
connector)  i aso tested for Resistance and got max numbers in a place 
where I wanted as close to zero as possible - so naturally the numbers 
were greater than 50.0 so I'm pretty sure that's a dead GP. There's a 
opening somewhere between the threaded connector and the probe.


I am assuming the GP is like a light bulb  --  IOW  --  it should 
have a short that makes the probe get hot?


Still have 3 more to test

Anyone ready to step up to Amsoil? ;-) I'm here to help -

Larry

Please Visit My AMSOIL Online Store:
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/default.aspx?zo=5114156
Oil Analysis Site - www.youroil.net

On 11/23/2013 7:00 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Larry wrote:

I was wondering - I'd like to test the GPs on my 240D - would it
be acceptable to hook them 1 at a time to my battery charger?  I
read the archives about testing GPs and the point was made that a
GP might test good with a meter when cold -  but can fail when it
heats up - if I use my Battery charger won't I cover that
hot/cold problem?

Yes - but all you will be able to tell is if it glows.  I think
it's a lot easier to test it still in the engine.

I attached 12 AWG wire leads to an old automotive dash style
ammeter that reads -30 0 +30 Amps.

To use it, I pop the top off of the glow relay and unplug the
connector for the glow plugs. There is a contact for each glow plug
in this connector.  I clip one meter lead to the fused side of the
big, screw-in fuse and then touch each glowplug contact, one at a
time. The socket has pin numbers molded into it, and these numbers
correspond to the cylinder number.

This method tests the supply 12V, the wire, and the plug. When
cold, a good plug draws about 20A (Well, on my meter it point
to the mark for 20 amps. I have not calibrated or tested the
accuracy of that meter...) It will drop back to about 15A
after 8-10 seconds.

Once the one wire is connected to the fuse, DO NOT LET THE
OTHER WIRE TOUCH CHASSIS GROUND!!!  Or the big fuse will blow
and possibly so will your ammeter. :)

If the plug is bad, the current will usually be less.  If it is
shorted it will be much more.

If the wire or connectors are in poor shape, the current will
be less.

If the supply voltage is low, the current will be less.


--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-02 Thread Mitch Haley


If they represent an open circuit, they work as well as a blown light bulb.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-02 Thread Rich Thomas
They should show just a few ohms of resistance, like 3 or 4 if I 
recall.  Zero not good, infinite not good.


--R


On 12/2/13 12:15 PM, Larry T wrote:

Hi Gang,
I tried to test the GP using my 12v battery with the GP removed 
since i had already pulled it - it didn't even get warm -- i then 
tested it as many ways that i could think of using my DMM - zero 
continuity, (I tested between the threads and the probe as well as the 
threaded connector)  i aso tested for Resistance and got max numbers 
in a place where I wanted as close to zero as possible - so naturally 
the numbers were greater than 50.0 so I'm pretty sure that's a dead 
GP. There's a opening somewhere between the threaded connector and the 
probe.


I am assuming the GP is like a light bulb  --  IOW  --  it should 
have a short that makes the probe get hot?


Still have 3 more to test

Anyone ready to step up to Amsoil? ;-) I'm here to help -

Larry

Please Visit My AMSOIL Online Store:
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/default.aspx?zo=5114156
Oil Analysis Site - www.youroil.net

On 11/23/2013 7:00 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Larry wrote:

I was wondering - I'd like to test the GPs on my 240D - would it
be acceptable to hook them 1 at a time to my battery charger? I
read the archives about testing GPs and the point was made that a
GP might test good with a meter when cold -  but can fail when it
heats up - if I use my Battery charger won't I cover that
hot/cold problem?

Yes - but all you will be able to tell is if it glows.  I think
it's a lot easier to test it still in the engine.

I attached 12 AWG wire leads to an old automotive dash style
ammeter that reads -30 0 +30 Amps.

To use it, I pop the top off of the glow relay and unplug the
connector for the glow plugs. There is a contact for each glow plug
in this connector.  I clip one meter lead to the fused side of the
big, screw-in fuse and then touch each glowplug contact, one at a
time. The socket has pin numbers molded into it, and these numbers
correspond to the cylinder number.

This method tests the supply 12V, the wire, and the plug. When
cold, a good plug draws about 20A (Well, on my meter it point
to the mark for 20 amps. I have not calibrated or tested the
accuracy of that meter...) It will drop back to about 15A
after 8-10 seconds.

Once the one wire is connected to the fuse, DO NOT LET THE
OTHER WIRE TOUCH CHASSIS GROUND!!!  Or the big fuse will blow
and possibly so will your ammeter. :)

If the plug is bad, the current will usually be less.  If it is
shorted it will be much more.

If the wire or connectors are in poor shape, the current will
be less.

If the supply voltage is low, the current will be less.


--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-02 Thread Mitch Haley

Rich Thomas wrote:
They should show just a few ohms of resistance, like 3 or 4 if I 
recall.  Zero not good, infinite not good.


Don't they draw 20-30 amps when cold?
That would imply about half an ohm.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-02 Thread Rich Thomas

Divide by 5

--R


On 12/2/13 2:09 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Rich Thomas wrote:
They should show just a few ohms of resistance, like 3 or 4 if I 
recall.  Zero not good, infinite not good.


Don't they draw 20-30 amps when cold?
That would imply about half an ohm.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-02 Thread Mitch Haley

I thought that a single plug started out over 20 and quickly dropped as it 
heated.
Paging Mr Cathey...

Mitch.

Rich Thomas wrote:

Divide by 5

--R


On 12/2/13 2:09 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Rich Thomas wrote:
They should show just a few ohms of resistance, like 3 or 4 if I 
recall.  Zero not good, infinite not good.


Don't they draw 20-30 amps when cold?
That would imply about half an ohm.

Mitch.



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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-02 Thread Craig
On Mon, 02 Dec 2013 18:33:48 -0500 Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 I thought that a single plug started out over 20 and quickly dropped as
 it heated. Paging Mr Cathey...

I'm not Cathy, but yes, the plugs do draw on the order of 15-20A each when
they are cold.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-02 Thread Fmiser
   Rich Thomas wrote:
   They should show just a few ohms of resistance, like 3 or 4 if
   I recall.  Zero not good, infinite not good.

  Mitch Haley wrote:
  
  Don't they draw 20-30 amps when cold?
  That would imply about half an ohm.

 Rich Thomas wrote:
 
 Divide by 5

Divide what by 5?  The 0.5 ohm each?  To figure the total
resistance of all the plugs (presuming parallel glowplugs) is
1/((1/0.6)*5) 

--Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-12-02 Thread Jim Cathey
I thought that a single plug started out over 20 and quickly dropped 
as it heated.


Something like that.  Cold, the GP's are about 0.7 ohms.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-11-26 Thread Larry T
Thanks for the suggestion -- I'm not sire it will work on my 300D with 
the GPR under the dash. //But I'll read your commment and see if I can 
apply them to my 240D, Will save the directions for my 300D  although i 
have done the WSM tests on it successfully.   Never hurts to have 
alternatives


Sorry about the odd formating -- (if it is coming through on your end.)

BTW,  If anyone is interested in learning about Amsoil let me know :-)

*Larry
Please Visit My AMSOIL Online Store:
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/default.aspx?zo=5114156
Oil Analysis Site - www.youroil.net*

On 11/23/2013 7:00 PM, Fmiser wrote:

Larry wrote:

I was wondering - I'd like to test the GPs on my 240D - would it
be acceptable to hook them 1 at a time to my battery charger?  I
read the archives about testing GPs and the point was made that a
GP might test good with a meter when cold -  but can fail when it
heats up - if I use my Battery charger won't I cover that
hot/cold problem?

Yes - but all you will be able to tell is if it glows.  I think
it's a lot easier to test it still in the engine.

I attached 12 AWG wire leads to an old automotive dash style
ammeter that reads -30 0 +30 Amps.

To use it, I pop the top off of the glow relay and unplug the
connector for the glow plugs. There is a contact for each glow plug
in this connector.  I clip one meter lead to the fused side of the
big, screw-in fuse and then touch each glowplug contact, one at a
time. The socket has pin numbers molded into it, and these numbers
correspond to the cylinder number.

This method tests the supply 12V, the wire, and the plug. When
cold, a good plug draws about 20A (Well, on my meter it point
to the mark for 20 amps. I have not calibrated or tested the
accuracy of that meter...) It will drop back to about 15A
after 8-10 seconds.

Once the one wire is connected to the fuse, DO NOT LET THE
OTHER WIRE TOUCH CHASSIS GROUND!!!  Or the big fuse will blow
and possibly so will your ammeter. :)

If the plug is bad, the current will usually be less.  If it is
shorted it will be much more.

If the wire or connectors are in poor shape, the current will
be less.

If the supply voltage is low, the current will be less.


--   Philip

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-11-23 Thread Craig
On Sat, 23 Nov 2013 12:16:48 -0500 Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:

 I was wondering - I'd like to test the GPs on my 240D - would it be 
 acceptable to hook them 1 at a time to my battery charger?  I read the 
 archives about testing GPs and the point was made that a GP might test 
 good with a meter when cold -  but can fail when it heats up - if I use 
 my Battery charger won't I cover that hot/cold problem?

Your battery charger won't put out enough current to operate the glow
plug.

- Remove the glow plug (of course)
- Clamp the hex with a pair of vise-grips
- Touch the glow plug's center terminal to one battery terminal
- Touch the handle end of the vise-grips to the other battery terminal,
 if it's not long enough, extend with a wrench or something conductive
- Watch for the orange glow from the glow plug

CAUTION: The glow plug will be REALLY hot!

To test another, release the vise-grips to drop the tested glow plug onto
your concrete garage floor or something equally non-damagable.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-11-23 Thread Mike Esh
I test all of the old ones I pull from the car with this method. I also test 
the new ones before putting them in the car. Last time I did this, 3 of the 5 
still glowed, just as brightly as the new ones. 

Michael E. Esh
231-286-2344


 On Nov 23, 2013, at 12:16 PM, Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 I was wondering - I'd like to test the GPs on my 240D - would it be 
 acceptable to hook them 1 at a time to my battery charger?  I read the 
 archives about testing GPs and the point was made that a GP might test good 
 with a meter when cold -  but can fail when it heats up - if I use my Battery 
 charger won't I cover that hot/cold problem?
 
 Thanks
 
 -- 
 Larry
 Please Visit My AMSOIL Online Store:
 http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/default.aspx?zo=5114156
 Oil Analysis Site - www.youroil.net
 
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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-11-23 Thread Larry T

Thanks Craig!   Sounds good.   I really appreciate your help -

Larry
Please Visit My AMSOIL Online Store:
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/default.aspx?zo=5114156
Oil Analysis Site - www.youroil.net

On 11/23/2013 3:01 PM, Craig wrote:

On Sat, 23 Nov 2013 12:16:48 -0500 Larry T l02tur...@comcast.net wrote:


I was wondering - I'd like to test the GPs on my 240D - would it be
acceptable to hook them 1 at a time to my battery charger?  I read the
archives about testing GPs and the point was made that a GP might test
good with a meter when cold -  but can fail when it heats up - if I use
my Battery charger won't I cover that hot/cold problem?

Your battery charger won't put out enough current to operate the glow
plug.

- Remove the glow plug (of course)
- Clamp the hex with a pair of vise-grips
- Touch the glow plug's center terminal to one battery terminal
- Touch the handle end of the vise-grips to the other battery terminal,
  if it's not long enough, extend with a wrench or something conductive
- Watch for the orange glow from the glow plug

CAUTION: The glow plug will be REALLY hot!

To test another, release the vise-grips to drop the tested glow plug onto
your concrete garage floor or something equally non-damagable.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Testing Glow Plugs

2013-11-23 Thread Fmiser
 Larry wrote:
 
 I was wondering - I'd like to test the GPs on my 240D - would it
 be acceptable to hook them 1 at a time to my battery charger?  I
 read the archives about testing GPs and the point was made that a
 GP might test good with a meter when cold -  but can fail when it
 heats up - if I use my Battery charger won't I cover that
 hot/cold problem?

Yes - but all you will be able to tell is if it glows.  I think
it's a lot easier to test it still in the engine.

I attached 12 AWG wire leads to an old automotive dash style
ammeter that reads -30 0 +30 Amps.

To use it, I pop the top off of the glow relay and unplug the
connector for the glow plugs. There is a contact for each glow plug
in this connector.  I clip one meter lead to the fused side of the
big, screw-in fuse and then touch each glowplug contact, one at a
time. The socket has pin numbers molded into it, and these numbers
correspond to the cylinder number.

This method tests the supply 12V, the wire, and the plug. When
cold, a good plug draws about 20A (Well, on my meter it point
to the mark for 20 amps. I have not calibrated or tested the
accuracy of that meter...) It will drop back to about 15A
after 8-10 seconds.

Once the one wire is connected to the fuse, DO NOT LET THE
OTHER WIRE TOUCH CHASSIS GROUND!!!  Or the big fuse will blow
and possibly so will your ammeter. :)

If the plug is bad, the current will usually be less.  If it is
shorted it will be much more.

If the wire or connectors are in poor shape, the current will
be less.

If the supply voltage is low, the current will be less.


--   Philip

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