Hello Steve,
welcome to the expensive Nixie world :-)
Seriously, the seller "geoffnel" is known to sell a LOT of Panaplex
tubes, and I know he has a vast stock of NIB ZM1040 tubes. Why not email
him directly (using the Ebay messaging system) and ask for a price of
new ZM1040s?
$50 for a Tes
If this is your first, and you're looking to get your feet wet, why not try
an easier, cheaper tube, like the IN-14. direct solder, or wire pins, no
socket, side display, and much MUCH cheaper than IN-18s
I'm new to this, but these are what I have been using.
On Wed, Nov 3, 2010 at 9:53 PM, Stev
Yup, the IN-18's are expensive. Almost an investment. I bought those
and stock in microsoft as well. I think I did better on the IN-18s.
Shopping on ebay is your lowest price. You can expect the $120 auction to
go up, but not by to much since they are listed as "used". New set of 7
i
Dear group;
As per most starter nixie clock builders; I've been looking at IN-18
size tubes, approx 40mm high, and my God they are expensive!
I've found a listing for a Philips ZM1040 sold ex Russia on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ZM1040-TESLA-nixie-tube-red-1pc-/220690126115?pt=LH_DefaultDomai
Adam,
We are both in the same area (physically). Maybe collab on the WWVB might
be in hand.
I did suggest it, because he said Arduino, and I have found plenty of
online code specific to WWVB and Arduino. But, like you, still a work in
progress as it sits powerless in front of me.
Also,
I second this. For the same money (cheap) you're looking at far greater
accuracy than most crystal designs.
To me, being able to keep track of time while unplugged is a special
design requirement that most clocks needn't have. If this is necessary,
I usually go with a DS32khz & DS1307 & a button
I solved this by having an rtc on my clock (for setting the initial time on
reset) which I update it's time every 5 minutes with what is on my clock. That
way, it only drifts when I loose power.
I can almost have my cake and eat it too!
-joe
On Wednesday 03 November 2010 11:38:56 micha...@aol.
Agreed. Unless your power goes out (often in my area).
Michail
In a message dated 11/3/2010 8:35:00 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
the...@gmail.com writes:
The simplest and cheapest way to go is to use line frequency. Accurate
within a couple of seconds over months and the cost of impli
The simplest and cheapest way to go is to use line frequency. Accurate
within a couple of seconds over months and the cost of implimentation is:
1. AC 9V wall wart.
2. 6 diodes.
3. 7805 regulator to you +5V for your micro.
connect the clock signal to your microcontroller and every time you see 60
Frank/Steve,
Another thought is adding a WWRB receiver. $13 from Digikey. This way
you are always accurate (or at least self fixing all the time - and no need
to worry about ever setting the time).
I bought two of them, but, I have to admit. They aren't doing very good
since I still ha
> Doesn't that give you an inaccuracy of +/- 5ms on your 60 seconds
> measurement?
Correct which means worst case you could drift +/- 7 secs/day which
most would consider unreasonable.
If you upped from 100hz to 1khz then you'd reduce it to +/1 .5 ms per
minute which
would get you +/-.7sec/day wo
- Original Message -
From: "coggs"
To: "neonixie-l"
Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2010 12:04 PM
Subject: [neonixie-l] Re: Keeping your clock accurate
I used to use a 1 pulse/second signal from a GPS receiver for the
calibration. I then wrote a calibration routine which would start a
Using a TXCO such as a DS1307 is by far the least muss and fuss. Stays
accurate to within a second or two per month, which is really
remarkable when you think about it.
That said, any properly designed (ie stable) quartz crystal oscillator
circuit should give you similar accuracy once it is calibr
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