Bob
I also think that the applied voltage to the resistor in the anode
circuit has to be lower than the voltage needed for the anode-cathode to
strike itself. If higher then the R-C-tube will act as a relaxtion
oscillator. The voltage must be higher than the voltage that will fire
the
The trigger should not stay on, the capacitor before the trigger electrode
should only produce a pulse, unless there is a leakage current flowing to
the trigger through this capacitor. You can test this by lowering the 22M
resistor to ground to lets say 10M and see if the circuit behaves in a
Greetings All,
I am hoping you can help me make a decision. I have been using my Radio
Shack 25w soldering iron for a few years now, and it is time to upgrade. I
have been scouring boards and other Interwebz sites, and I think I have
narrowed it down to two.
Here are the ones I am looking
On 16/02/2014, at 19.12, blkadder wrote:
Greetings All,
I am hoping you can help me make a decision. I have been using my Radio
Shack 25w soldering iron for a few years now, and it is time to upgrade. I
have been scouring boards and other Interwebz sites, and I think I have
narrowed
For that kind of money you could probably pick up a used Metcal and a
couple of tips.
Tony.
On Sun, 16 Feb 2014 19:23:21 +0100, you wrote:
On 16/02/2014, at 19.12, blkadder wrote:
Greetings All,
I am hoping you can help me make a decision. I have been using my Radio
Shack 25w soldering
I have the gq 5200
http://bit.ly/1dXhMr7
And I absolutely love mine.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 16, 2014, at 12:23 PM, Per Jensen elektronikbik...@gmail.com wrote:
On 16/02/2014, at 19.12, blkadder wrote:
Greetings All,
I am hoping you can help me make a decision. I have been using
On 02/16/2014 01:12 PM, blkadder wrote:
Greetings All,
I am hoping you can help me make a decision. I have been using my Radio
Shack 25w soldering iron for a few years now, and it is time to upgrade. I
have been scouring boards and other Interwebz sites, and I think I have
narrowed
I recommend http://www.mpja.com
Look at their little inexpensive soldering stations.
I have one. It cost about $19. Tips cost a few
bucks each. It is temperature-controlled.
Works very slick, very nice. I've used it for hundreds
of hours and the original tip has not even been worn
not even a
I live near these guys, so I might have to stop by. There is lots of cool
stuff on their site, but it looks like most of the soldering station are
out of stock. Thanks for pointing them out to me.
On Sunday, February 16, 2014 2:11:29 PM UTC-5, Chuck wrote:
I recommend http://www.mpja.com
Hi
Hakko FX888D digital soldering station
I swear by (rather than at) my FX888 - I have the analogue version.
Tend to use it for all my fine stuff, in conjunction with a Leica GZ6
binocular microscope that I got for a real song on eBay. (I'm 99% SMD,
unless doing high voltage stuff, or
Be aware to keep away of soldering irons that fix their tips with a screw.
They will be stuck!
Best is the system with a sleeve that has to be fixed near the relatively
cool end at the handle, like Weller does.
The tip hasn't to be earthed directly (short circuit danger!), but via an 1M
Ohm
Be aware to keep away of soldering irons that fix their tips with a screw.
They will be stuck!
However, if you have one (I did, for many years), put some anti-seize lubricant
on it. That does wonders for making it less stuck. Mind you, it'll still be
stuck, but can be removed with gentle
Ron,
For regular soldering I've been using an Edsyn 951SX for the last ten years
or so and it's been flawless. You can buy various different tips for it
(they're held in place by the collar on the iron and not a screw (a good
point brought up by Eric). I also have the Aoyue and use it for hot air
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