Make sure you are using excess anode voltage; spec is 135V but try closer
to 200V. Higher voltage does NOT harm a nixie; excess current does, so make
sure you have a current-limited supply, or add some series resistance. In
this case, about 75K for a 200V supply is fine for 1 segment.
Did this
For a Panaplex I don't have a lot of experience, unfortunately. Are you
sure it is not degassed? You can hold a plasma globe close by and see if
there is any neon left inside of it. Jens
On 2019-05-30 7:48 p.m., alex nolan wrote:
ZM 1350, in this case
On Thursday, May 30, 2019 at 9:43:59 PM
ZM 1350, in this case
On Thursday, May 30, 2019 at 9:43:59 PM UTC-4, Jens Boos wrote:
>
> What kind of tube is it?
>
> Cheers
> Jens
>
> On 2019-05-30 7:39 p.m., alex nolan wrote:
>
> Has anyone had any success restoring a nixie tube which does not want to
> light up? I don't think the tube has
What kind of tube is it?
Cheers
Jens
On 2019-05-30 7:39 p.m., alex nolan wrote:
Has anyone had any success restoring a nixie tube which does not want
to light up? I don't think the tube has degassed, could it just be
severe poisoning? If so, what's the best way to restore it?
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Has anyone had any success restoring a nixie tube which does not want to
light up? I don't think the tube has degassed, could it just be severe
poisoning? If so, what's the best way to restore it?
--
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My big clock simulates clock-hands with 306 NE-2H bulbs; during self-test,
all of them light-up and you can actually *feel* the light on your face.
It's a weird sensation because the bulbs dont actually heat-up and
re-radiate in that short of time.
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These things won't light reliably at 175V. In my experience you will need
more like 240V.
On Thursday, May 30, 2019 at 4:16:46 PM UTC-4, ZY wrote:
>
> What is your plan for powering this display? I ask because I also have 4
> modules that I'm trying to get to work.
>
> As far as I can see, at
Lololol you literally can apparently make this stuff up!
Bill
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To post to
> On May 30, 2019, at 2:48 AM, Tomislav Cordazzo wrote:
>
> I guess list is endless
"Okay, so we all realize that getting cables up off the floor is a nice little
tweak, but not earth-shattering. However, Caelin assures me that the
improvement offered by the new design is on the level of
What is your plan for powering this display? I ask because I also have 4
modules that I'm trying to get to work.
As far as I can see, at 13mA per tube, lighting all 23 digits requires
0.3A, which at 175V is like 52 watts? And that's just one of the digits.
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Really nice collection there! I can relate to the time it takes to get
some of the tubes. The B-7094 are awesome!
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I guess size does matter
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 29, 2019, at 21:39, Jeff Walton wrote:
>
> Fine. Now I have nixie envy. Thanks a lot.
>
>
>
> Jeff
>
> Original message
> From: Nicholas Stock
> Date: 5/29/19 8:37 PM (GMT-06:00)
> To: neonixie-l@googlegroups.com
>
I have a complete manual, inc. schematics, for Alvin G’s 'Dinosaur Eggs' on its
way to me. This should be compatible with the VFD display boards.
https://www.ipdb.org/search.pl?name=dinosaur+eggs=20=name=advanced
Once I have the manual, I’ll scan the relevant pages and post them somewhere.
I guess list is endless, my favorites are cryogenically treated and
demagnetized Rhodium Plated OFC Copper fuses which claim to improve the
overall sound.
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