Good question indeed.
I use a combination, out of a matter of habit, mostly because my '95,
with it's rear drum/front disc setup is the newest bike I've ever
owned.
Back in the day of all drums, bike and car, downshifting with steady
front/rear brake application was the only way to haul it down
I am convinced that I am still alive because I have asked the what if?
question a lot. I wise good friend of mine always told me there are two
types of driving philosophies on the road: you can either drive aggressively
or defensively. The former get you there quickly, the later get you there.
From: Javier Garcia jajgar...@gmail.com
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, October 9, 2009 5:52:28 AM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: braking
I am convinced that I am still alive because I have asked the what if?
question a lot. I wise good friend
@googlegroups.com
Sent: Fri, October 9, 2009 9:42:03 AM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: braking
Dennis,
That was a great comment! Thanks. Having laid a bike down when the rear wheel
locked in first gear, I can attest to the value of experience. When it
happens, it's something you'll only do once. Thanks
wrote:
From: stanley/ Randolph tinkrm...@yahoo.com
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: braking
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Friday, October 9, 2009, 11:10 AM
I read the below after writing my experience in the previous post...
Yes, road conditions have to be right to use
On the bike I prefer to use the brakes. Those are easier to change out than
driveline parts. I use both front and rear evenly for the most part.
In cars I may downshift but that's because the brakes are extremely biased
to the front and I use downshifting and the clutch to balance out the
braking
Personally I'm not qualified to give someone riding advice on how to ride.
But keep in mind that when you down shift you are only braking with the rear
tire. At least 70% of your stopping power comes from the front brakes. Also
locking up the rear tire can make you go down just as easilly as
It's a very good question. The best answer to which would be to direct you to a
training facility. I prefer to give the answer that there is no hard, fast
rule. There is no substitute for experience. The surface must figure into any
scenario. Wet, dry, gravel, leaves
Straight line or
, February 05, 2009 9:22 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Braking
Russell is a good brand. They have a kit for your bike. I think it was $35
w/shipping. Paul`s website has a link for the installation process.
- Original Message -
From: Ingersollmailto:250bi...@gmail.com
...@gmail.com
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Braking
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date: Monday, February 2, 2009, 8:13 AM
Ah, thanks. Any preferred brands for a steel brake line?
On Jan 29, 6:44 pm, Greg Holuban gman...@msn.com wrote: A steel brake
as the forks are the same diameter and length as yours no problem
with using your tree. Still be some big $$
--- On Mon, 2/2/09, Ingersoll 250bi...@gmail.com wrote:
From: Ingersoll 250bi...@gmail.com
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Braking
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers! nighthawk_lovers
A steel brake line will make a huge difference. Dual disks were for Europe and
Asia only.
- Original Message -
From: Ingersollmailto:250bi...@gmail.com
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!mailto:nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 29, 2009 10:59 AM
Subject:
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