Yes, I did and sorry for not mention this earlier.
There is no frame screw with ground near the rectifier so I pulled out the
green sockets from the RR connector to fit them outside and bridged them
over to the minus battery port directly.
But it didn‘t help either which did not surprise me
Have you tried running an extra ground wire from engine (at the starter) to the
frame (battery “door” bolt ?
The battery ground goes directly to the engine, not to the frame. Engine mounts
are rubber.
It’s worked for me before. Jim
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jul 3, 2022, at 12:05 PM, Frank
Hey Guys,
took a while to get forward and work through all possible traps by checking
again every connector, switch, cable, fuse box, panel, ignition switch,
green ground connection underneath tank at the coils etc. and following the
diagram all the way back to the rear lights.
Even both, RR
Hi Dennis,
took a while to get forward and work through all possible traps by checking
again every connector, switch, cable, fuse box, panel, ignition switch,
green ground connection underneath tank at the coils etc. and following the
diagram all the way back to the rear lights.
Even both, RR
Thanks for your inputs which actually both sound reasonable in general.
Plucking the diagram along the harness up to the starter switch and further
to the ignition switch in the meter panel would definitely make sense if I
had a noticable voltage drop or resistance between the left and right
Oops, meant to say that I paid $180 for a new Stator... and Well worth the
price!
Aloha,
Ian
On Mon, Jun 20, 2022, 10:35 PM Ian Chames wrote:
> When I bought my 83 Nighthawk 650 last year, right away I had charging
> issues. The battery was a closed cell, supposedly in good condition.
>
When I bought my 83 Nighthawk 650 last year, right away I had charging
issues. The battery was a closed cell, supposedly in good condition.
Changed the rectifier first (as it was the cheapest replacement item),
charging output at 3000+ rpm was putting out only about 11.8 volts. Bit the
bullet,
It sounds like you might have a connection causing a drain of voltage
somewhere. While my bike discharges a little each ride, I top it off every
few days with the trickle, I've never stalled or lost power.
Check all your shinies and connectors aren't corroded or loose. Shiny =
Volts.
On Tue, Jun
One step ahead, I received a new aftermarket R/R to replace the old one but
both passed voltage measures and diode tests outside.
No surprise it didn't make a difference and the load capacity still doesn't
reach 13V @5000 after checking these things:
- battery fine and fully charged giving 12.8V
Kyle, thanks for confirming the idle caveat again which at least complies
with the Clymer.
It just makes me wonder whether the Nighthawk was far ahead that time with
CDI, hydraulic valves and final drive for highway trips only while it sucks
the battery in city traffic.
However, it all doesn't
One thing I learned back when I had my 650 was that Mr Clymer will
absolutely lie to you and won't feel bad about it. I can't say if he's
right or not about the charging system, it's been too many years, I think
the biggest lie I found was with wiring diagram had some wire colors mixed
up.
That
Dear Hawkies,
proudly owning an US 83‘ Nighthawk 650 for many years now, I much
appreciate Paul's valuable site leading me to this group.
Currently I‘m also fighting the famous charging issues and struggle with a
misleading information in the Clymer CB550 & 650 Nighthawk 1983-1985
chapters 4
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