I have processed 4x5 film in tanks on hangers for years; never had any
problems. I think it has to do with the agitation technique: I learned
from Bruce Barnbaum to lift the hangers straight up, tilt them about 45
degrees to the left, back into the tank, then up and 45 degrees to the
right. I
Another bonus with the 10 drum is that when new they are supplied with a
rubber stopper which keeps the 4x5 sheets separate during development,
with no need for the screen. Very convienent.
Don
On Wed, 23 Jan 2002 10:54:05 -0500 Gregg Kemp gregg.k...@sas.com
writes:
I used trays for
ditto on the HP CombiPlan tank, less expensive than jobo, easier than the
tubes.
On Wed, 23 Jan 102 10:17:30 -0500 (EST) Richard M. Koolish
kool...@bbn.com writes:
Porter's has a plastic daylight developing tank for
$40 or so. (I think their web address is portercamera.com)
I bought my
I've tried it and had bad luck. The negs would get streaked near the
holes in the hangers no matter how fast or slow I tried to dip them
in.
ballard borich wrote:
Does anyone have experience with using film hangers in tanks as a
film
developement technique?
I have some of the equipment but
Does anyone have experience with using film hangers in tanks as a film
developement technique?
I have some of the equipment but no experience.
Ballard
_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
Of course, if one wants to go the seriously cheap route, you can use halftone
film, which I've done in the past. A sheet of 10X12 should cost around half a
buck, and developing in dilute Dektol (I've used 1+10 to 1+20, depending upon
the scene) will minimize the contrast.
george
If you want to try saving a bit on film try the Bergger and Forte brands.
Both make a good 8X10 film. I think Bergger has larger sizes available as
well.
Of course, if one wants to go the seriously cheap route, you can use halftone
film, which I've done in the past. A sheet of 10X12 should
--- Gordon Holtslander hol...@duke.usask.ca wrote:
[clip]
I've been meaning to try a comprimise. Open ended tubes. One can put a
reduction fitting on a
one end of abs tubing and a cap on the other. This would create an opening
in one end of the
tube but would still allow and inch of
Dear Pinholers
Thank you all for participating in discussing my darkroom to be, where I will
be developing film in a tank, so the lighting conditions that I have to
consider are for developing papers in a tray. Although I only asked about the
effect of a milky glass globe covering the bulb
the other problem is it takes a bit time to drain the chemistrymore
than a few seconds.
andy
-Original Message-
From: pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???
[mailto:pinhole-discussion-admin@p at ???]On Behalf Of Richard M.
Koolish
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2893 6:44 PM
To:
I develop all my 8x10 sheet film in trays and haven't had any problems
with scratching. I use Ilford HP5. You really shouldn't have a problem
with this method, however I will give you a tip on what not to do...
A few years ago while my wife and I were living in a small apartment in
California,
Hi:
I've processed peal apart polaroid films without using a polaroid back.
I uses a jam jar to burst the chemical pod and spread it over the film. This
works well.
However I did use a back to take the pictures.
I was using single sheet film. The outer layer has the chemical pod and acts
George, I can't thank you enough for this link and the information about tubes
for sheet film developing. I've been developing my sheet film for over 20
years, in trays, and had simply resigned myself to the inevitable scratches on
the emulsion--not to mention the awful darkness. Though even
I wonder if anyone has experience of using peel apart colour polaroids for
pinhole and darkroom projections without using a camera at any stage?
Although I currently use the rollers of a broken land camera to develop my
SX-70 and 600 polaroids, I want to use the peel aparts for their format and
Thanks to those who responded to my recent post. There has been a number of
knowledgeable people writing in. The notches on the film are right up my
ally. The suggestions about using tubes and the radio shack timer are also
appreciated. I like the grain on ilford's film. So I'll be trying their
I think you're right, Richard. After poking around a little, it is mostly just
a links page (but some useful links).
My apologies for that one.
Gregg
-Original Message-
From: Richard M. Koolish [mailto:kool...@bbn.com]
Sent: None
To: pinhole-discussion@p at ???
Subject: Re:
http://www.photo-warehouse.com/
does anyone have contact info or a URL for photo warehouse?
I'm not sure that's the right Photo Warehouse.
Here's an ad for the one I'm thinking about:
http://www.printmart.com/ads/805-485-9654.htm
I don't think they have a web page
http://www.photo-warehouse.com/
does anyone have contact info or a URL for photo warehouse?
I used trays for developing 4x5 film (Tri-X, Plus-x, and now TMAX) for years
(without any scratching that I recall). But, I got to where I really hated
standing in total darkness while developing (it became sort of like a
deprivation chamber, without the freedom to let your mind roam). So, I
does anyone have contact info or a URL for photo warehouse?
thanks,
rob
I'm not trying to start an argument but if one does tray processing reasonably
carefully there
is little risk of scratching film. It is possible, but I don't think I've ever
scratched film
tray processing 4x5. I've developed 100's of sheets of tri-x and have never
noticed any
scratching.
Porter's has a plastic daylight developing tank for
$40 or so. (I think their web address is portercamera.com)
I bought my developing tank on eBay for a few
dollars less than that...
Mike Vande Bunt
The thing about sheet film tanks is that some of them don't seal
and are hard to
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