Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from Rivlike Bikesto 2
shellac methods? Are there net-terrorists amongst us? Will the
president inter wen and punish the evil-doers? Should I listen to my
doctor and start taking those pills he prescribed? A!
On 11 Jan, 08:04, James Warren
I'm sure that was a mistake
On Jan 11, 3:57 am, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote:
Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from Rivlike Bikesto 2
shellac methods? Are there net-terrorists amongst us? Will the
president inter wen and punish the evil-doers? Should I listen to my
doctor
John,
Welcome aboard and you have my admiration for diving into the bicycle
assembly business. It should certainly accomplish your goal of
knowing how everything on your bicycle goes together. Much easier to
fix something in the middle of no-where when you are the mechanic that
assembled it.
Well it's back to Rivlike Bike now but how on earth could this
happen?
On 11 Jan, 13:06, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote:
I'm sure that was a mistake
On Jan 11, 3:57 am, fenderbender pedal_kr...@yahoo.se wrote:
Why has this thread suddenly been renamed from Rivlike Bikesto 2
shellac
Just for the record, I don't own the current model of Nitto rear rack
that Rivendell designate as Big Back Rack. But I did recently buy a
similar rack witch I think is the older version with out the extra
truss support like this one:
I collect French parts but do not have any on my bikes currently.
Some day I might try and make a classic French rando with some. That
is a project far on the back burner though.
As the others have pointed out, old French parts even in good shape
can be fussy when paired with modern components.
The only bars I've broken has been crashes prior to this and neither
were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or 7000
series alu too!
In RR39/Summer-03 issue Grant had a very interesting interview with
the president and designer of Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa:
Q: For a 200lb
The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to that and
neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably were 6 or
7000 series too as most were on my mtb! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there
was a very interesting interview with the president and designer of
Nitto Mr. Akira Yoshikawa
To answer the question I don't replace unless I can see a crack, dent
or deep mark. The only bars I've broken has been in crashes prior to
that and neither were hi end parts. When I think of it they probably
were 6 or 7000 series too! In RR39/Summer-03 issue there was a very
interesting interview
Were I to be contemplating riding brevets or multi-day tours, I'd
start by defining what range of gears would work for me, then choose
derailleurs to match. If the Simplexes work with the gearing you need
and you trust them in brevet conditions, then go with them. If not,
go modern.
Bill
John
Hey John,
Welcome to the list and kudos to building and maintaining your own
bike! I can't help you with the gear ranges appropriate to the
derailleurs you have, but I do agree with others here suggesting going
with modern Shimano stuff (Deore/LX/XT rear, Sora Front - for
example). For the
For your wintertime enjoyment, some shots from yestoday's ride. About
halfway into the Descending Cardiac video is a group of supercars
that passed me on the way down:
Climbing Cardiac:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yEvn96Sr_w
Descending Cardiac:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nSXQoljYQg
Did you finally get some coffee?
- Original Message -
From: fenderbender
To: RBW Owners Bunch
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 6:49 AM
Subject: [RBW] Re: handlebar lifespan?
To answer the question I don't replace unless I can see a crack, dent
or deep mark. The only bars
Sorry, sorry, sorry. I never knew how the technology worked until now.
I always assumed that if you change the name of the subject line, then
a new thread automatically begins. But now I've learned that the thread
is still defined by the message to which you hit reply. I always
thought I was
In case there is anyone who would like to participate in the final day
of his ride.
www.bikingforobama.com/2009/01/11/calling-all-riders/
On Dec 24 2008, 1:40 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
Thanks for the link. Guy is truly inspired. Even the southern tier
this time of the year
Thanks, guess I was running on fumes. But the google forum lack of
edit functions paired with a tired 'ol Win98 do ad to the fun. :)
On 11 Jan, 18:19, David Faller dfal...@charter.net wrote:
Did you finally get some coffee?
- Original Message -
From: fenderbender
To: RBW
I have a gently used Silver Hupe for sale: $20 shipped in the CONUS.
Rubber coating has been worn off on the lower part in one small area,
but *not* where the Hupe contacts the frame. Chrome is perfect.
--Eric
campyonly...@me.com
www.campyonly.com
www.wheelsnorth.org
Thanks for all the advice.
Let me be clear here: Using the Simplex derailleurs from my old bike
is not to save a few bucks on new derailleurs. It's because they
worked flawlessly for many years. I see no reason to change -- plus
they're a lot prettier than Shimano. All I'm trying to figure out
Trust me, I'm definitely going to take it to a bike shop to check
after I put everything together! I'm going to look into taking a
course, but I usually take the try and fail approach first.
I'm considering just putting the Simplex on the shelf, and maybe using
it with a used frame in the
John:
I'm not familiar with your Huret parts but a lot of old stuff is a whole lot
better looking than modern day stuff. IMO, Shimano tends to a cold,
industrial look.
Assuming you're going to use the FD RD, expect to do quite a bit of trial
error to see what works for you. Most
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