Thanks for the pointer to the connectors, Anton. It looks like you're 
grounding through the bottom bracket bolt, and then via the fender mounting 
hardware? 

I think I'd prefer to keep it simple and not ground through the frame, 
although your method looks elegant. Do you have any recommendations for two 
prong connectors, especially for coax wire? I've wondered about something 
like these DC power supply connectors:

http://www.radioshack.com/nte-69-a18-female-dc-connector/55076513.html
http://www.radioshack.com/size-m-coaxial-dc-power-plug/2741577.html

They're designed for DC but I can't imagine that matters at these power 
levels. If you had lots of tire clearance you could even do a fancy panel 
mounted jack on the fender to be really elegant. But that also seems like 
asking for trouble in a place that's gonna collect lots of road grime. On 
that note, maybe it's best to stick to simple banana plugs that are easy to 
clean?

http://www.radioshack.com/size-m-panel-mount-coaxial-dc-power-jack/2741563.html

Ben


On Sunday, December 28, 2014 12:02:27 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Great idea; thanks, Anton. You may have saved my Toplight Line dyno 
> taillight after all!
>
> On Sun, Dec 28, 2014 at 6:36 AM, Anton Tutter <atu...@gmail.com 
> <javascript:>> wrote:
>
>> You can glue the wire directly, I've been doing that as well.  I used to 
>> think I'd have to be able to remove and replace the wire as needed and not 
>> have to re-glue it, but that's never been the case.
>>
>> I would avoid the peripheral tubing on the rack if the pannier is going 
>> to cause rubbing issues.  Alternatively, instead of gluing the wire to the 
>> rack, glue a small aluminum conduit and run the wire through that.  The 
>> conduit should be able to resist the constant abrasion of the pannier 
>> fastening mechanism.  I've used 3mm ID conduit that I found at Blick Art 
>> Supply.  I've used it successfully inside of fenders and along my front 
>> rack:
>>
>> <https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/8732431095_e3763d3219_c.jpg>
>>
>> The aluminum tubing comes in something like 2 foot lengths for a couple 
>> of bucks. Just cut some segments long enough to protect the wiring from the 
>> panniers.
>>
>> Anton
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, December 28, 2014 3:36:45 AM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>> Y'know, with this Goop idea -- a tube of that stuff, or the largely 
>>> equivalent Shoe Goo is always a part of my garage tool kit -- I may just 
>>> try Anton's idea for my rear light, which is rack mounted. I run my rear 
>>> wire along the top tube since it doesn't make sense to run it the long way 
>>> 'round for a rack light, but small dabs of goop instead of zip ties will 
>>> make the wire much less obtrusive. But if I do so, I think I'll use the 
>>> Goop directly between wire and frame. Has anyone done that?
>>>
>>> A related question: Presently I run the rearmost portion of the wire 
>>> under the rack, where it is unsupported by any longitudinal member -- the 
>>> rack has no central tube. This of course means that the wire is very 
>>> visible. If I were to position it along the underside of one of the side or 
>>> perimeter tubes, would the wire be damaged by repeated installation of 
>>> Ortlieb rack hooks? These have small retractable spring-loaded arms that, 
>>> when released, pretty much encircle the rack tubes. I suspect it will.
>>>
>>> On Sat, Dec 27, 2014 at 10:28 PM, blakcloud <blakc...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> In Anton's reply he has a link to what he uses. It is Goop Household 
>>>> Adhesive. 
>>>>
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>>>
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>
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>
> *************************************
> *The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a 
> circumference on the rim of which all conditions, distinctions, and 
> individualities revolve. *Chuang Tzu
>
> *Kinei hos eromenon. It moves as the being-loved. *Aristotle
>
> *The Love that moves the Sun and all the other stars. *Dante  
>  

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