Hi Thomas,
I made a standoff like the Acorn one, but if the bag wasn't full or had
heavy stuff in it then it sort of collapsed back around the standoff, so I
stopped using it. I just bought some coroplast to see if I can make a
stiffener for it that will help solve the problem. Acorn uses
Sorry I’m so late in seeing this. If you are still interested in any
alternatives for managing your Country Bag, check out the wonderful stand-offs
available from Acorn Bags. So inexpensive that it probably is worth it just to
avoid making it yourself, let alone for the Acorn quality of the
Very nice! I was considering green bar tape for my build too :-) I've
noticed the paint seems to chip easily, but so far not in large flakes. If
it ever gets to the point of needing to repaint it, I will also change the
rear brake braze-ons to accommodate continuous housing, but I hope that
Thanks everyone, I'm pretty fond of the color too. I remember admiring it
when the bike first came out, there was one parked near my worked, and I
read and re-read the lovely bike posts about it.
@Jeremy, How cool! If you see me again you should stop me and have a chat!
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Awesome bike, and congrats! It's indeed an early one, as you can see from
this "Lovely Bicycle" post in early Jan 2010:
http://lovelybike.blogspot.com/2010/01/whats-green-and-lugged-and-not-bicycle.html
Constance has additional posts and ride reviews, like this one:
I think I passed you today on the river trail, Eric! I was going the other
way on a green Rambouillet, also with Albatross bars. I rode from my house
in Downtown Sac up to the Sunrise Bridge and back, and was really enjoying
how fast and comfortable the Ram was with that setup. Snapped a
I've got it mostly built now, at least enough to take for a short test
spin, and I can tell I am going to have a lot of fun on this bike! I've
got a temporary seatpost in it, and I just ordered bar tape, but I'll post
pics when they are in place. Also, having bar end shifters on the
Eric,
That sounds perfect! Looking forward to pictures of the build and, yes,
ride reports! Building up a bike, then riding, tweaking, adding and
subtracting, making it your own, can be such a great thing. Congrats again
on the new Rivendell!
Bob
On Wednesday, September 5, 2018 at
Hi Bob,
For today's Sam I would definitely want the 58cm. I took my sizing for
this bike from the Rivendell Reader #41, which introduced the Sam, with the
60cm being for PBH 87-94. Mine is that original green color, but with a
pewter colored head badge rather than gold, so I think it's from
I can't speak to the saddle bag issue but be aware the design of the Sam
seems to have changed over the years. I think the earlier versions
possibly had a bias for swept back handlebars as well as maybe some other
changes (versus the current Sam). I could be wrong on that though.
Comparing
Thanks for the extra feedback :-)
I'm still waiting on some parts I've bought, but man, this bike is huge!
It feels similar in size to the 25" mid-80's Cannondale touring bike I used
to have, which I loved but always felt a little big. (My PBH is 89.5, so
this is sized right according to
I run my 132.5 dropout Rambouillet at 135.
But it is funny how I have had two sets of 135mm rear wheels and one
required me to pull out on the 132.5 dropout/chainstays to fit, the other
fit right in without any chainstay manipulation necessary.
Both were LX hubs, iirc.
The newest one fits just
For a few years, RBW sold models with 132.5mm rear spacing so you could use
130mm or 135mm hubs. Steel is flexible enough that you can spread even a 126mm
vintage frame open for modern 130 hubs. You can also have a frame cold set if
desired but I have never needed to.
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So, I looked around on the internet and found enough different opinions
about running wrong size wheels on steel bikes that I decided to try to
parse out those which clearly come from experience and knowledge. In the
spirit of sharing, here is my summary of internet wisdom on the topic:
So, I looked around on the internet and found enough different opinions
about running wrong size wheels on steel bikes that I decided to try to
parse out those which clearly come from experience and knowledge. In the
spirit of sharing, here is my summary of internet wisdom on the topic:
If you add spacers underneath the locknuts you should be ok.
Can anyone else weigh in here??
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Hi Ginz,
Yes, the XO uses a 47.5mm chain line. Rear wheel is a Shimano 300LX hub,
with a Shimano 7sp cassette. (The front hub still has the sticker on it,
and that says Exage HB-RM50).
Do you think I should add washers to the axle to get closer to 135mm?
Thanks,
Eric
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Are you sure that the original bottom bracket would cause the chainrings to hit
the chainstay? If so they yes, you may need to go wider.
Here’s what I would do:
Install the crank on your XO-2. Measure the chain line in the front, following
Sheldon’s directions. Let’s see what that number is.
Thanks for the feedback and advice! It’s nice to know I won’t be seen as
too gauche using old parts on this frame :-)
The old bottom bracket is definitely asymmetrical. My digital calipers
think it is 119.63 overall, 19.36 on the left and 23.72 on the right, but
Sheldon Brown says 121 mm
What rear wheel were you planning to use?
http://thepeoplelike.blogspot.com/
It looks like that Exage crank uses a 121mm spindle. So, A shimano UN55 68
x 122.5mm would be easy to get and cheaper than the tools to swap out a cup
and cone BB.
I'm assuming that Sam Hillborne's rear is spaced at
Bottom brackets don't have to cost a lot of money. Get the correct one;
maybe call Rivendell for guidance.
Based on personal experience & observation, lots of Rivendells get built up
with interesting mixes of parts. Over time, lots of people change the
build as their needs change. So
Absolutely build with what you have/think makes the best build. I built my
Altantis with a mix of 80's/90's and some new-ish parts. Granted it's an
early 2000's frame but I would build it the same if I bought a new one
today. Riv-ish builds do not need to be, nor are they commonly made of all
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