Or someone here will find an old Blackburn in the garage that was on a
mountain bike 20 years ago. There's gotta be a million of them out there!
On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 3:21:48 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
> Ibera is lower price brand I see a lot. Without the branding I've seen
> very s
Ibera is lower price brand I see a lot. Without the branding I've seen very
similar racks as OE on new commuter bikes.
On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 3:08:34 PM UTC-8 Paul Clifton wrote:
> Thanks David and Joe,
> I just remembered to ask ... any recommendations for cheap 26" wheel
> specific
Thanks David and Joe,
I just remembered to ask ... any recommendations for cheap 26" wheel
specific racks, rear mostly, but either I guess.
The 700c compatible racks I have around sit so far above the rear wheel
that the seat basically goes all the way down on top of them :`(
Paul
On Friday,
It's so pretty! I love that year/color Hardrock. Well done!
On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 9:53:31 AM UTC-8 Paul Clifton wrote:
> I thought y'all might like to see how the Clemified Hard Rock came out. I
> put Boscos instead of Albatross on because it seemed like it'd work better.
>
> [image:
Nice, Paul! Looks great. Let us know how she likes it.
On Friday, December 16, 2022 at 12:53:31 PM UTC-5 Paul Clifton wrote:
> I thought y'all might like to see how the Clemified Hard Rock came out. I
> put Boscos instead of Albatross on because it seemed like it'd work better.
>
> [image: hard
Thanks Pam. I also think friction bar end shifters on Albatross bars is the
most pleasurable way to shift. It just feels right to me. I'll take them
with me and let her check them out.
If this bike works out, I'd love to send her up to Charlotte for one of
your classes. She's in Atlanta, so not
Tendencies of cleaning, adjusting and using what's present versus replacing
30 year old OEM parts with things you have, know or prefer may be genetic.
People cannot help themselves if the trait is expressed.
I know thirty years is a long time for a bike sold as new to migrate the
landscape but
Friction and albatross bars are great. I didn't know how to use them when
I got them but it's easy. Takes 5 minutes to learn. Not sure where she
lives in GA but I'm in NC and would be glad to help. I'm in Charlotte, NC
which is on the border of SC. I'm from Augusta, GA which is only 2 1/2 h
:)
Are y'all really asking me to defend why I'm upgrading a 30 year old bike
for a very good friend of mine? Sheesh.
Of course I've gotten her input. Here's what she's said:
- "I want a bike like [your wife's] bike, with those handlebars." - 45
Clem L with Boscos (also a bit too big...
This would indeed be helpful. I assumed the need for new shifters was
because the original push-push were gummed up into uselessness after 30-odd
years, but we don't know if she's even tried the bike.
On Tuesday, November 29, 2022 at 1:26:57 AM UTC-8 Garth wrote:
> Did I miss the part where th
Did I miss the part where the friend actually rode the Hardrock as it is to
see how it felt in fit and function ? It seems that without some input
from her, you'd be trying to make her into something she is not.
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Paul,
Sorry to be late to the party.
That Specialized looks to be in decent condition. My thought was to lean
into replacing just what is needed. In this case I would go with replacing
the bars and shifters. The derailleurs that are on there probably will do
just fine. Getting some 7 speed th
> On Nov 28, 2022, at 15:14, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>
> Yes, my opinions are opinions. In my opinion.
>> On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 9:35:53 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>> But that's the point, Joe. If you learn the skill -- it's not rocket
>> science, for chrissake! -- you don't hunt
Yes, my opinions are opinions. In my opinion.
On Monday, November 28, 2022 at 9:35:53 AM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
> But that's the point, Joe. If you learn the skill -- it's not rocket
> science, for chrissake! -- you don't hunt, you just shift accurately. This
> assumes that your drivetrain
I agree with Patrick; my wife was never so happy as when I set up her bike
1x and she just had to use one shifter. She rides mostly for errands and
still occasionally forgets which direction "makes it harder". As for
friction, put me in the indexed camp. I like the click-and-it goes
simplicity a
It wasn't until 2019 that I switched over to biking after running for a
number of years due to issues with my knees creeping up. Anyway, I hadn't
been on a bike really since I was a kid, so I grabbed a complete Surly
Cross-Check, which came with bar-end shifters. After about a year of
riding,
But that's the point, Joe. If you learn the skill -- it's not rocket
science, for chrissake! -- you don't hunt, you just shift accurately. This
assumes that your drivetrain components are basically decent in quality and
condition.
As for choosing the easier method and thinking the slightly harder
I'll avoid the gun part this time and state the friction part more calmly:
I understand the interest in rear friction shifting, I personally find it
unnecessarily difficult on roads where I can't even hear if I made the
shift cuz of the cars going by. Anybody who wants it is certainly free to
g
Thanks y'all. I knew there would be people on this list who agree with me
that bar end friction shifting is really the easiest kind of shifting there
is, but I think, at the end of the day, Joyce's perspective is really right
on - for really novice riders, removing extraneous skills is the best
My vote would be for friction bar-ends because it's groovy, fun, looks
cool, feels great. Anyone can learn it, nothing to it.
You learn friction trimming and shifting quickly. Just a few anecdotal case
studies: I did, my partner did (she is not an avid or frequent rider), my
pal Glenn (who I j
I don't want to learn how to shoot a rifle and don't use friction shifting
for the rear even though I know how to do it. I think hunting around for
the next cog just because you can is silly, the clicks work.
On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 2:35:18 PM UTC-8 Tom Palmer wrote:
> I am with Garth
I am with Garth on this. Albatross and bar end shifters in friction mode
are easy peasy as long as the parts match or pretty close. My new Platypus
has 10 speed microshift bar ends, basic Deore deraiiler, mid range 10 speed
cassette, and basic Sram 10 speed chain o Albatross bars.
Shifting smoot
Give your friend friction shifters first for goodness sake. Don't sell them
short in their abilities, people don't need or want to be treated as
incapable. You don't have to buy expensive thumbshifters, Sunrace SLM10 and
Falcon are ratcheting ones for $10-15 and include cables. The ratcheting
m
Now that you have the rear shifting nailed, the question will be that front
RapidFire. If it doesn't work - and we all know index front triple shifting
sucks anyway - you can find a friction thumby for the front. Riv sells a
lot of Clems with this shifter arrangement.
On Sunday, November 27, 2
Compliments to you for helping your RivSister friend get a bike that
fits! Having coached a few timid riders recently, I have a these
suggestions:
1. Index shifters with numbers or an indicator regarding gear "size" help
new riders learn to shift without too much to think about. Trying to
New rider will not like friction shifting. For 8 spd retrofits, I always
buy microshift / sunrace. Work really well, can usually get both shifters
for $25ish. Rear V brake retrofit is full length housing with zipties.
On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 10:51:07 AM UTC-5 Paul Clifton wrote:
> O
Oh, and HAHAHA, of course Riv has the Claris 8 speed rapid fire shifter in
stock.
On Sunday, November 27, 2022 at 9:49:46 AM UTC-6 Paul Clifton wrote:
> Thanks Mike and Scott for the tip on the v brake setup. I'll give it a go
> as is, and it probably won't be a problem.
>
> And David, Joe, Sco
Thanks Mike and Scott for the tip on the v brake setup. I'll give it a go
as is, and it probably won't be a problem.
And David, Joe, Scott - thanks for the input. Buying a rapid fire shifter
and 8 speed cassette was really my first inclination, but it's getting
harder to find 8 speed rapid fire
Go with Joe's wisdom...
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On Sat, Nov 26, 2022 at 6:44 PM, Joe Bernard wrote: My
inclination fron your parts options is to try the 3x RapidFire on the front (it
may work with that derailer) and buy an 8-speed RapidFire for your Altus rear
derailer and an 8-s
My inclination fron your parts options is to try the 3x RapidFire on the
front (it may work with that derailer) and buy an 8-speed RapidFire for
your Altus rear derailer and an 8-speed cassette. But it would help a lot
to know what system she's used to.
On Saturday, November 26, 2022 at 3:03:2
I think for a new / timid rider I'd lean towards indexed over friction,
mainly because learning to friction shift requires listening and
micro-adjusting vs just clicking and pedaling - it's one more thing to
"worry" about.
That said a friction front can be simpler and less frustrating to use th
As Mike noted, cable routing approach to v-brake noodles is pretty forgiving
and allows some flexibility. It may be hard to visualize before attempting it,
but I think you'll be pleasantly surprised. Also, noodles with different bends
and angles exist that might help you refine your set-up.I per
v brakes noodles can easily be pointed downward. i would run housing from the
cable stop up to the noodle. i routinely do this upgrade old cantis to v brakes
on lady frames
mike goldman
rhode island
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Oh yeah, and can anyone point me to the thread about routing v brake cable
housing without the v brake cable guide near the seat clamp? Or tell me a
good way to do it? I might be able to get away without a cable guide but
I'd like to have a quick fix in my back pocket for when that doesn't work
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